Machining a hardened gear and new shaft (Lathe Repair)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Continuing on with making replacement parts for my friend Adam. This pinion gear and shaft were completely ruined by corrosion, so I make a new shaft after boring the gear out and prepping it to be welded on the new shaft.
Contact me: AlwaysSunnyintheShop@gmail.com
I just subscribed to get more of this great work.
Holy smoke you have the cleanest video and audio I've seen on TH-cam. And I watch a lot.
Do you have a video describing the equipment you're using?
Fantastic.
Thanks
Hey thanks for that, Dave! I'm glad my effort is worth watching. I've definitely grown a lot as a TH-camr in the last year. I don't think I've really talked about it much, but I use a Nikon Z6 camera and shoot at 1080P/60FPS and record audio with a lavalier mic on my shirt that connects to the camera with a Rode RODELink filmmaker kit. It does pretty well for its size and cost. Editing is challenging since I'm just self-taught, but I use powerful software to do it- Adobe Premier Pro.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop Thanks for the info. It is certainly all working for you.
Keep at it.
I realize I'm kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good site to watch new movies online?
@Randy Walker i watch on FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
Yep, if you're going to own a machine, you have to be able to repair it!
I learned that the hard way.
Try using a KDK 100 or 150 Toolpost, they tend to be slimmer than the Aloris-type. The KDK Tools posts can be had for reasonable cost, and for lighter work on a lathe of this size, are a good alternative choice. Stay away from the Chinese-made KDK copies. KDK went under in 2010, but there is a huge used market for them in the Southwest. KDK was based in Southgate, California for many years, then Prescott, AZ and finally Flagstaff, AZ.
This lathe actually came with a KDK tool post. I sold it before I got the lathe running because I already had Aloris tool holders. The KDK also only held smaller shank tools, but it would have been good to try it out against the Aloris. Oh well.
Secondary smaller lathe for small parts is the solution. That compound interference problem is way more reason than I would need to buy More tools.
Enjoyed..nice work, curious on the tool post clearance...why not extend the tool in the holder as the cuts were light and the tool is beefy?
I generally like the tools pulled in as close as possible, but you're right- it would certainly not be a big deal to pull them out to assist with clearing everything. Thanks Chuck.
A solution is to but 1.250 thickness tool holders. You should be able to manage them on that tool post without a problem. Then stick out becomes less of an issue. I’m not so sure it’s better to have the tool post overhang the slot. That puts pressure on one side of the compound, and pulls the other side up.
I wish I had your LATHE Problems. And your milling machine problems as well. Good video good work.
Good day
kimberzelik@youtube
I found the 'hack' interesting. Beginning to understand the network of constraints a working machinist faces. Good video. Got to love that lathe. Kinetic Art. Thanks for sharing.
Good results and some creative solutions along the way....... it’s all good man 👍👍😎👍👍
Make some sort of a material extension to give you the room needed.
check tee handle needs shrink tubing on the handle..
tool post holder need new ones made with additional offset to allow you to get out and touch the work without colliding with the tail stock.
Ya know buddy you whin way too much! Be grateful you have such a nice lathe to work on. GROW UP!
I’m apparently not your buddy since I whine* way too much. If you don’t like me, stop watching. No big deal.
Glad you did it the way I suggested.....proper procedure.....you could have reamed it .500
The option of turning between centres would have been better just spin the work around insisted of nibbling away by the chuck........
Well if you ever want to get rid of the troublesome lathe, give me a call!
Heck, I could even take it free of charge!
I wish I had your problems !virtually ALL lathes have this problem. Certainly my chinese 12x19 has lol I think given the size of your Monarch and the tooling size you could have easily pulled out your tool ( lmao) by half of five eights of and inch and been able to do the machining without whinging about the problem Arron and without swinging your compound around from your preferred position for it.
@@samrodian919 I would buy a real thick shank tool for doing the occasional work with center support if my lathe had that problem. At least my holders can take a 1 1/2" shank. One of those to the extended holder Aaron has and it should be able to reach out far enough without too much flex.
I once bought a lathe, the previous owner cut off its bed into two just because a large disc he wanted to machine was too large, it touched the bed. As he cut it into two, he realised that he fucked up 😆😆😆 totally making that up lmao 🤣 it never happened 🤪🤣
Welding on finished parts is an invitation to warpage- better to turn the shaft on one end, press it into the gear, weld it, face it off and then turn the other end to size and cut your keyseat. BTW- the term keyway is used in common industry vernacular as both keyway and keyseat, but I understand your caution as there are always folks out there itching to jump on any wrong terminology.
Speaking as a 16 year seasoned welder and the person he’s making these parts for. End welding on a shaft will not cause any notable warpage in this particular application. Speaking as the person that then installed these parts back into his lathe, the shaft was not warped and worked precisely how it was intended to work.
@@stuffandthings8767 Can't dispute the results, but keep in mind I said it "invited", not "assured" warpage. Every job is different, so I prefer to use the method with the least variables. By welding first and turning second you are assured your shaft will be concentric with your gear in every application.
Yes I am old school also & I whole heartedly agree to your procedure!!!
Somebody showed a spider that used regular parallels bolted too it so you could change heights. Pretty sure it was commercially available maybe an option. You gotta work with the tools you have and you got it done. :-)
I have that. It’s a pain to use. At first, it’s difficult to know which way the parallels are supposed to go. There are some cast in tiny supports for them, but it’s not ideal. Getting the parallels, um, parallel to each other is an iterative process. Then, if the part itself doesn’t have parallel sides, it lifts when in the chuck, and you find yourself tapping the day away. When it works though, it’s great. Just be careful you don’t get chips, or metal dust under the magnets.
Aaron, project is coming along very nice. About your compound, your Lathe is a series 60 16 inch with a 22-1/2 swing. They also made the series 60 in a 24-1/2 swing. With that power compound I think it would of been nice if they would of used the 24 1/2 swing on yours. Would of eliminated a lot of compound problems.
make a yoke to bolt to the handle holes of your angle grinder , make it look like a sling shot.. so you can mount your angle grinder firmly in the tool post holder for grinding or slicing easily when you need to..
almost need to make a camera bellows to prevent chips from getting on the ways of smaller length jobs.. using spring loaded push rods ruthlessly removed from GM fuel pump modules fished from the trash at repair shops. stainless steel tubes with stainless rods that slide tightly inside and stainless springs that cover the outer tube snugly..
Aaron, how often do you use the compound? I realize that honkin' big powered compound would be a bit cumbersome to take on and off the machine... But if you seldom use it, why not take it off in favor of a solid tool post block? It would eliminate all your interference issues, and you could make the tool post block shorter, so that all your tool holders aren't bottomed out like they currently are. It would also increase rigidity, though that beautiful machine doesn't need much help there.
Regardless, great work as always.
Hope all is well with you and yours. I've been waiting for the next in this series. Any idea when it might be released?
Take care, G.
Gday Aaron, this shaft turned out great, it was certainly hardened but you got around that problem and the carbide burr left a good even chamfer, I really enjoying the project, throughly enjoyed watching mate, cheers Matty
That’s a disaster waiting to happen, putting your chuck wrench under your chuck? You could cut some stringy chips while turning and they get wrapped around the wrench pulling it up into the chuck! Scary bad!
It must look a lot closer on video than in real life- it’s a mile away from the jaws of the chuck. If chips ever touched the key while they were still attached to the work it’s because I fell over dead next to the lathe.
Putting the short gear into a slug of aluminum bored to the OD of the gear and split would be the ticket. Time = money, but IMHO it is worth it.
Enjoyed this video as always. Thanks for letting us watch.
Are you sure you used the recomendet speeds for your Tools? Looks all way too slow for me but not sure as the camera frames don’t show it as it would look like in real. And i think investing in some inserts that can cut hardened Material would have saved you some work.
Compound interference with the tail stock isn't a problem that is unique to your machine. My century old Mueller is the same way, and that may be why the tail stock is so massive. It can extend around 9", and often gives the clearance I need. No visible slop on the quill when it's 'out there,' but I did have to make some wear compensation to get the live center point as close as I could to axial vertical center. Using it like that makes "sneaking up on dimension" a fine art, trying to keep tool pressure from pushing the part out of place. I use the vertical shear tool quite a bit, because it can make very lights cuts with minimal pressure.
NEVER LEAVE YIUT CHUCK KEY IN YOUR CHUCK WHEN YOU FONT HAVE IT IN YIUR HAND
LOOK AT 10:40 WHEN YOU ARE SETTING UP TO TURN THE REVERSE OF GEAR
many youngsters what you and you don’t want to set BAD HABITS for them
As an apprentice we had this hammered into us and yes it did happen A Chuck key went flying as machine got turned on, lucky that no one was hurt
Rant over
Really beautiful lathe. If you get a chance check out the U3 universal gutter grinder. I picked one up and it totally changed my reailty when it came to lathe/mill/drill sharpening. It's like 5k rpm diamond wheel ultra precise (
Just found your channel from watching one of Adam Booths videos. Enjoyed watching very much, had to subscribe. That lathe has to be one of the cleanest I have seen. Thanks very much for sharing.
Why did you have to cover the machine when grinding? At first I thought you were going to use a grinding wheel, so it made sense. But the burr is nothing more than when you’re turning. The same material is coming off. The DeWalt may have tungsten powder coming off the wheel, so I understand the need for it there.
I have the same parallel chuck tool for my 8” chuck. It works well, but can be a bit touchy to get the parallels in the fixture perfectly flat. I have to put in on my surface plate to do that. None of the different models from other manufacturers seem to come out far enough, particularly if the chuck is bigger with deeper jaws. But it’s the most accurate one I’ve used so far.
I feel your pain with the compound interfering with everything. The machine I used to run at work had a huge compound proportionally to the size of the machine itself. It would constantly interfere with everything. And if you set the compound straight parallel to the crossfeed, it would interfere with the crossfeed handle, you wouldn't be able to turn it. And here's the kicker. It was not a powered compound, just some soviet genius engineering.
There's always a reason for things. The downside of a powered topslide is complexity and bulk where you don't want it. If you're making a lot of parts with a short taper like bevel gears, it might be useful. 99 percent of the time, a home shop guy uses his compound for advancing the cut a tiny amount on a threading operation, or for taper turning. My ideal lathe would have a taper attachment, lead screw reverse from the apron, and maybe a solid tool post mount on the cross slide so I could program in my tool offsets. A powered compound sounds like it would be cool, but when you start thinking about what you'd use it for... meh.
Yes 90 degree is what you need & you can adjust the stick out of your insert holder, no problem, angle of compound is for cutting angles or deep threading, have fun!!!
Man I really don't like that spot for your Chuck key. I'm looking at it just thinking a chips gonna grab it and pull it against the Chuck and smash it into the way. Cool job though, creative solutions
It's further down and out of the way than it probably looks- I can't make a stringy chip strong enough to pick that thing up where it's at. I keep thinking about making a mount for it in a better spot, though- it's definitely not ideal where it's at. Thanks for commenting.
*the camera got bored and stopped watching* 😆😆😆😆 I'm a fan of you
Hello Aaron,
Nice work as always... I hope you are okay, you sound like you have lost your mojo for this machining malarkey a little...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hey Paul, no I'm good. the TH-cam hassle drags me down way more than machining. After getting my first vaccine dose I'm feeling a lot better about the future, too. Cheers.
Camera got tired of watching...and shut off😂😂😂
beautiful lathe! must of been a labor of love for whoever repainted it!
Why go to the expense of TGP shaft when you are turning off all of the ground and polished areas?
Just because that's what I had- I have some annealed 4140 and 1018 but wanted to use the tougher stuff so I turned off the shiny part of this bar.
That is one gorgeous lathe, an amazing piece of history!
Unfortunately machine tools are a compromise.
You have a beautiful machine but there are definitely limitations.
My 15x50 Colchester would make that job a cinch.
On the other hand, your Monarch is King in many ways.
Well put. I’d love to have a second lathe to do small work like this but that’s for the future. Very lucky to have this lathe.
Great work. I wished this video was out just a few days ago. Saw an idea that I should have thought about on a project I was working on. Keep up the good work.
Why dident you anneal the gear and then harden the gear . 😟
VERY BEAUTIFUL MACHINE!!!!!!!!!
Great video, thanks for sharing! Just subscribed. That's a big monarch. Is that a series 60? 1000rpm or 700rpm?
Thanks Jamel! Good eye- it's a Series 60 from 1952, 10 HP and 1000 RPM spindle, 22.5"x54"
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop Beautiful machine. Cant wait to find the perfect one for myself. Cheers.
You really need a lathe half the size for parts like this.. 😁👍
Ha yeah that'd be helpful for sure, but no room for two lathes....yet.
Hiya Aaron
Most excellent.
😻
Hey brother. Way back in trade school they taught us to NEVER leave the chuck key in the chuck. They even had a speaker come in who had a terrible injury that way...
I love your new edge finder. I was watching doubleboost video a while ago interviewer gave him a tip on his edge finder just like yours. The comment was
(if you spin the edge finder, if there is any concentricity in your chuck it will help) great Job!
Another great video and it's brave of you to show your problems, as well as your successes. Thanks again. Paul
Aaron, great fun to see you in the shop again. Nice work on this project.
Looking good. And wow you have a nice looking lathe 👌
Love the problem solving on the big lathe keep it up 👍
“We will make it a press fit”. “We will bore it to exactly .500”.
Proceeds to miss the mark and it fits loosely. It wasn’t sunny in the shop today ! 😂
Don’t worry- welding made it nice and tight 😁
Great work
LOOKING GOOD ARRON. REGARDS RICHARD.
That's one shiny chuck!
Nice video keep it up
You can boar out the gear and sleave it then cut a new keyway, have him tig in the sleave in.
Yup that's exactly what I ended up doing, although I welded it in and let him cut the keyway.
Goin' old school with the Cratex
I love Cratex!
The next time you have something too hard to cut! Heat it to about 1500 degrees then let it normalize back to room temp. Then try cutting it.