I tried one of those return line kits once and ended up taking it off and throwing it in the garbage. It probably would be easier with the engine on the stand, but I could not get the thing to quit leaking. I use brass barb T’s and short ends of hose. The first set lasted over 10 years on the 1855 and I only changed them because I was working on something and they were easy to get to.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris the end the clamps over the injector was the end I had trouble with. It was a pain to get it on there and then once you tighten it down, it would not quit leaking.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris On Deere engines I use those parts, since the OEM is a billion.........they work fine but if you take notice they bottom out and not really tighten the rubber first, I chuck the ends in the lathe an knocked about .030" off of them, work fine after, tightened up the rubber and not bottom out on the tee. If I had to guess the rubbers aren't quite as long as what the OE is and there is the issue, IMO the brass parts are made well.
@@tpfromcentralpa1692 good to know. I bought some genuine parker rubber ferrules from MSC to have on hand. I think I will swap those out and see if they snug up better.
I had to buy a different magnet for a screw up in an upcoming video. The number and variations of magnets available tells me there's lots of stuff dropped in places it shouldn't be.
Hey Chris, thanks for showing me how to time the pump with the marks! I need to check the timing on my son's Massey 285, I'll be saving this video to re-watch it when we go to work on his tractor. I tried to check it last fall and I now know what I was doing wrong. My dad rebuilt his injector pumps back in the 70's to the 90's, he was self taught and a mechanically inclined man, miss him a lot. Thanks for giving us this video on the fuel pump, I will certainly use the info! Have a great week!
Had one of those umbrella seals roll over on me and leak fuel into the oil on my 4-78 forklift. Picked up new seals today and my pump guy gave me a tip: cut off a piece of the plastic bag they wrap the injection pump in and roll the plastic bag over the umbrella seals like rolling a cigarette. Hold the bag tight as you slide the shaft into the pump and pull the bag off just after the seal goes into the busing.
area diesel service has a long & short version of rebuilding those roosamaster pumps on you-tube, I watched enough to know that it was beyond anything I wanted to tackle
Very interesting, Chris. Getting all those things lined up and keeping them that way would definitely drive me crazy and I'd need a 55 gallon barrel instead of a small swear jar. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Anyway, I always learn from your videos like this.
I've got a couple of injection pump projects coming up here this spring and this video is going to be an excellent help thank you very nicely done Chris.
Great video to show the proper way to install injection pump , timing injectors . I use a small bit of Vaseline on those seals n pump bore . I've done the same thing with the tie wire on those bolts . Dorman carries fittings n grommets also . I just used that same kit on the 1750 had the factory stuff on it and new injectors also same as yours . Again great video to show its not that confusing. From turkey creek farms be safe n thankful
I hope you know what a treasure trove of knowledge skill experience you are. It may be that only old guys like me understand that but it’s nevertheless true.
Safety wiring hazard is usually just getting poked with a sharp end of the wire, I was in aviation. Having what you are wiring coming loose in your hand is something different all together. :)
Hey Chris great video even had some funny parts. I buy those tee's from reliance seperate and just make my own lines. I tired to find them direct from parker vibra lock but they do not show one with two different sizes like these. Some company makes them for deer, reliance and a&i. I just do not know who. Like I said in the other comment they will seal even though they still move. As Ross said I have removed pumps without pulling the shaft out the front.
Ross and I talked about pulling the shaft. Turns out it was just the way I was taught to do it and I should be leaving it in there. Thanks for the vote of confidence on the Ts . I guess I will leave them alone.
I have a VW Beetle with a turbocharged diesel. About a month ago, I needed a new fuel pump. My mechanic sourced a company that sells rebuilt pumps. When they got the pump, they could not get the thing timed with my sprocket. Eventually, after about 3 weeks of trying, they sent the pump, AND my timing sprocket to the place they bought the pump from, and requested they time it. They just got the pump back, with the sprocket that is my sprocket (they marked it) and it times. However, it wasn't the same pump (they marked it, accidentally). The company did NOT say they messed up, but we can all draw our own conclusions.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris yes. Mine's an automatic so it only got 40mpg when new. Now, 16 years later, I still can pull 36 - 38 depending upon where. My daughter had a TDi Jetta, stick shift, and she got 50 mpg highway.
Sorry buddy but you made that pump timing look difficult today! 😂 I think I remember a 1974 Service Bulletin that changed the 1855 timing to 0? The metal tees in place of the plastic are great. First saw them on the 1855 Repower engines. Don’t remember if they ever made it into the WFE parts system? Thanks for sharing.
It definitely wasn't working with me. 😂 The timing to 0 was supposed to aid in starting, which it would, but I think it was really more about fighting the other troubles they were having. I decided to stick with 2. I never came across any metal return Ts from White in my travels.
You have a timing mark clearly visible on the tooth of the injection pump drive gear tooth. I’m courious as to why you didn’t use it to line up with the mark on the drive gear tooth? I can also clearly see the mark on the drive gear tooth in the gear pad.
"we'll just take out the top screw so its one less screw to loose" ** both screws and the cover go flying** Im sorry buddy that was funny. I just laughed for 10 minutes at that.😂
If a guy could get the Ts with 1/8" pipe thread and the vibra lock fittings, it could be done. I'd use copper line since it bends easier. I might have to look into that....
Hey Chris when you get your parts from any companies do you always have right parts or sometimes they wrong number, don't match with parts? How long do you wait for there mistake parts to fix tractors? When you rebuild your tractors engines do wish make something different to engines to perform better? Thanks again answer my questions
It's rare that I get the wrong part, but I look up the parts numbers myself and I think that saves a lot of trouble. It does occasionally happen, but the majority of the places I deal with are good at making it right. Typically I rebuild to factory specs. I figure I'll get longevity, which means more to me. There are some things, like these return Ts that I'll upgrade.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Got mine through Deere, think it was $35, I am sure elsewhere its cheaper. Not much to it, but the elimination of a arse ache is worth $35 to me. I got one with the tip of a pick and I didn't know it once, that redo cost more than $35.
@@tpfromcentralpa1692 good point. When I folded the seal in my 1750 it cost me a fresh oil change. After the second time I let it sit overnight with an empty oil pan to see if it got fuel down there. I should have mentioned it in the video as a tip.
I tried one of those return line kits once and ended up taking it off and throwing it in the garbage. It probably would be easier with the engine on the stand, but I could not get the thing to quit leaking. I use brass barb T’s and short ends of hose. The first set lasted over 10 years on the 1855 and I only changed them because I was working on something and they were easy to get to.
Now you tell me. I have my concerns with how easy they turn on the injector. Maybe a good coat of paint will seal them up.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris the end the clamps over the injector was the end I had trouble with. It was a pain to get it on there and then once you tighten it down, it would not quit leaking.
@@rosstheoliverman great. Guess I better find a way to get them tighter before the paint flies
@@ThatOliverGuyChris On Deere engines I use those parts, since the OEM is a billion.........they work fine but if you take notice they bottom out and not really tighten the rubber first, I chuck the ends in the lathe an knocked about .030" off of them, work fine after, tightened up the rubber and not bottom out on the tee. If I had to guess the rubbers aren't quite as long as what the OE is and there is the issue, IMO the brass parts are made well.
@@tpfromcentralpa1692 good to know. I bought some genuine parker rubber ferrules from MSC to have on hand. I think I will swap those out and see if they snug up better.
Two 310 pump installs in a week! First Ethan with his 1955 and now your 1855. Good to see tractors coming back together so they can get used.
When we would rebuild a engine in school it was always exciting to here the first initial startup.
It is exciting. All that work and it comes down to the turn of a key.
No matter how good a mechanic we may think we are we ALL have humbling bumbling moments. 😂😂 thanks for sharing.
I had to buy a different magnet for a screw up in an upcoming video. The number and variations of magnets available tells me there's lots of stuff dropped in places it shouldn't be.
Hey Chris, thanks for showing me how to time the pump with the marks! I need to check the timing on my son's Massey 285, I'll be saving this video to re-watch it when we go to work on his tractor. I tried to check it last fall and I now know what I was doing wrong. My dad rebuilt his injector pumps back in the 70's to the 90's, he was self taught and a mechanically inclined man, miss him a lot. Thanks for giving us this video on the fuel pump, I will certainly use the info! Have a great week!
Hopefully it's the same. If that uses the CAV pump, they had letters inside the cover to line up with the mark.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I'll have to check, old guys can't remember things past a month, don't you know!😁
Had one of those umbrella seals roll over on me and leak fuel into the oil on my 4-78 forklift. Picked up new seals today and my pump guy gave me a tip: cut off a piece of the plastic bag they wrap the injection pump in and roll the plastic bag over the umbrella seals like rolling a cigarette. Hold the bag tight as you slide the shaft into the pump and pull the bag off just after the seal goes into the busing.
Good tip! Thanks!
area diesel service has a long & short version of rebuilding those roosamaster pumps on you-tube, I watched enough to know that it was beyond anything I wanted to tackle
I'll look that up. Thanks
Thanks, Chris. That’s a lot of good information.
Glad to help!
Very interesting, Chris. Getting all those things lined up and keeping them that way would definitely drive me crazy and I'd need a 55 gallon barrel instead of a small swear jar. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Anyway, I always learn from your videos like this.
Thanks Charlie!
I've got a couple of injection pump projects coming up here this spring and this video is going to be an excellent help thank you very nicely done Chris.
Just don't pull outward on that lock wire.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris been there, done that. Also had the shaft pop out when tightening the bolts
@@paulkline2719 , yep. You say a few choice words, and get back to work.
Boy, was this helpful! Thanks Chris.
Glad to help.
Please tell me you have a vanity plate on your car that says "assman" 😂😂😂
Made for great viewing as always bro, it is coming along well. Safe travels
Thanks, Ken
Love the return kit
It sure looks nice. Almost a shame they will be hidden behind the exhaust manifold.
Great video to show the proper way to install injection pump , timing injectors . I use a small bit of Vaseline on those seals n pump bore . I've done the same thing with the tie wire on those bolts . Dorman carries fittings n grommets also . I just used that same kit on the 1750 had the factory stuff on it and new injectors also same as yours . Again great video to show its not that confusing. From turkey creek farms be safe n thankful
Did the new Ts seal up good on the new injectors?
I had a few issues but not bad you know how it go's, little things that drive ya crazy
I hope you know what a treasure trove of knowledge skill experience you are. It may be that only old guys like me understand that but it’s nevertheless true.
Thank you!
Safety wiring hazard is usually just getting poked with a sharp end of the wire, I was in aviation. Having what you are wiring coming loose in your hand is something different all together. :)
First rule of lock wire is when you get stuck it goes to the bone... 36 year aerospace career.
Hey Chris great video even had some funny parts. I buy those tee's from reliance seperate and just make my own lines. I tired to find them direct from parker vibra lock but they do not show one with two different sizes like these. Some company makes them for deer, reliance and a&i. I just do not know who. Like I said in the other comment they will seal even though they still move. As Ross said I have removed pumps without pulling the shaft out the front.
Ross and I talked about pulling the shaft. Turns out it was just the way I was taught to do it and I should be leaving it in there. Thanks for the vote of confidence on the Ts . I guess I will leave them alone.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris well if they do leak you can blame me!!
Well done
Thanks!
I have a VW Beetle with a turbocharged diesel. About a month ago, I needed a new fuel pump. My mechanic sourced a company that sells rebuilt pumps. When they got the pump, they could not get the thing timed with my sprocket. Eventually, after about 3 weeks of trying, they sent the pump, AND my timing sprocket to the place they bought the pump from, and requested they time it. They just got the pump back, with the sprocket that is my sprocket (they marked it) and it times. However, it wasn't the same pump (they marked it, accidentally). The company did NOT say they messed up, but we can all draw our own conclusions.
I hear those diesel bugs get fantastic mileage.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris yes. Mine's an automatic so it only got 40mpg when new. Now, 16 years later, I still can pull 36 - 38 depending upon where. My daughter had a TDi Jetta, stick shift, and she got 50 mpg highway.
Nice job Chris, I take it if you wouldn't have been a farmer you probably would have been a teacher? Thanks Michael
When I was little I wanted to be an astronaut. Now I just want space. 😂
Sorry buddy but you made that pump timing look difficult today! 😂
I think I remember a 1974 Service Bulletin that changed the 1855 timing to 0?
The metal tees in place of the plastic are great. First saw them on the 1855 Repower engines. Don’t remember if they ever made it into the WFE parts system?
Thanks for sharing.
It definitely wasn't working with me. 😂
The timing to 0 was supposed to aid in starting, which it would, but I think it was really more about fighting the other troubles they were having. I decided to stick with 2.
I never came across any metal return Ts from White in my travels.
You have a timing mark clearly visible on the tooth of the injection pump drive gear tooth. I’m courious as to why you didn’t use it to line up with the mark on the drive gear tooth? I can also clearly see the mark on the drive gear tooth in the gear pad.
I totally missed that. What time was it at in the video?
"we'll just take out the top screw so its one less screw to loose"
** both screws and the cover go flying** Im sorry buddy that was funny. I just laughed for 10 minutes at that.😂
Totally unplanned, but I knew it was gold as soon as it happened.
I think he’s learning from Ross the Oliverman
Ross is my spirit animal. Well, actually concrete floors are my spirit animal. Ross would still be looking for that screw. 😂
Great video, I learned a lot.
Glad you enjoyed it!
« Real men of genius »😂😂😂😂. Funniest moment in the history of your channel 😂😂.
Are you doing paint as well after mechanical?
Yes, this one is getting the full treatment.
Those are some of the best commercials ever. 😂
I forgot tell you great video's keep up good work 😊😊
Thanks!
I wish someone made a good return line setup for the 88’s
If a guy could get the Ts with 1/8" pipe thread and the vibra lock fittings, it could be done. I'd use copper line since it bends easier. I might have to look into that....
Blue heelers
Could a full lined silicone hose clamp be used as a compressor for that seal?
Could be, as long as you can get it back out after it slides in.
if you want single tees new gen jd 820. this is how i did my 1655 some time ago
Good to know. Thanks!
Hey Chris when you get your parts from any companies do you always have right parts or sometimes they wrong number, don't match with parts? How long do you wait for there mistake parts to fix tractors? When you rebuild your tractors engines do wish make something different to engines to perform better? Thanks again answer my questions
It's rare that I get the wrong part, but I look up the parts numbers myself and I think that saves a lot of trouble. It does occasionally happen, but the majority of the places I deal with are good at making it right.
Typically I rebuild to factory specs. I figure I'll get longevity, which means more to me. There are some things, like these return Ts that I'll upgrade.
Hey sometimes a headache is worth $300 to have someone else do it.
don't be so hard on your self its what makes more human, the ones who never seem to make a mistake are not worth watching
Well, I learned that my small investment into the umbrella seal tool was a wise use of my money.
How much does one cost. I should probably make the same investment.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Got mine through Deere, think it was $35, I am sure elsewhere its cheaper. Not much to it, but the elimination of a arse ache is worth $35 to me. I got one with the tip of a pick and I didn't know it once, that redo cost more than $35.
@@tpfromcentralpa1692 good point. When I folded the seal in my 1750 it cost me a fresh oil change. After the second time I let it sit overnight with an empty oil pan to see if it got fuel down there. I should have mentioned it in the video as a tip.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Stanadyne 13371 is the number.