Have my own 2011 Subaru Impreza since February 2024, originally had Euro 4 engine which I had to replace last month, hydrolocked from blown headgasket(s) 😂 Swapped in Euro 5 engine from a 2014 forester and started right up without need for mapping or anything, just reuse old wiring harness from my previous 2011 Euro 4 engine and its plug and play, no lights on dash or nothing, hop in and drive. Alot more soot build up on the 2014 compared to my 2011 though, because the dpf and egr was deleted and mapped out on it but those both carried over to the new engine, so its running pretty well so far, no more overheating or blown headgasket and hopefully less likely for a snapped crankshaft too 😂 I'm from Ireland where dpfs and egrs are deleted from majority of diesels and they still all pass inspection, inspection only really cares if the exhaust is way too loud or if there's a bunch of black smoke out of the exhaust which only happens if you remap it to do such things. most people just go to steel yards and fabricate their own downpipes and stuff and it saves a lot of trouble and makes the car alot better than when it came out of the factory.
Thanks guys - this is really helpful and very informative. My UK Subaru Legacy 2.0 D (2011 MY) suffers from very variable performance - sometimes it pulls like a train and other times like a horse and cart - it varies even on the same journey. I'm wondering if your video's content is my trouble. Hopefully the DPF is ok though(!)
Cleaned manifold. Still a few instances with this error. Noticed that this error occurs when on cruisecontroll - with very high loading and in the same time low rpm. Ie when failing to shift down in time before pulling up a long hill on cruise. Knowing this I have stayed clear of these errors since with the new aftermarket egr and a clean manifold. Now I am thinking about egr delete. Will it work to block off the floe but still leave the valve operative to avoid errors?
Hello! First, I'm subscribed to your videos because I think they are extremely professional and instructive, really great and thank you on all the information you present! I live in Europe and I also have one Forester diesel - my question is how much costs such "cleansing" and when it should be done (kilometers)? Many thanks in advance ;-)
Thanks very much for the encouragement Tito. The cost and frequency really depends entirely on how bad the soot buildup is and how the car is used. If it sees regular highway driving it will need to be cleaned less often than if it's always siting in traffic. Best to have it inspected for a professional opinion.
Brett, is it true that the DPF in the Subaru Diesel engines is actually limiting the power figures? Do you also make modifications to the diesel engines, increasing their performance?
I can answer for him, YES. a big limiting factor. They did do a rally forester with DPF delete and ecu remap running i believe 197hp and 438nm tq, Brett correct me if im wrong. The DPF is kinda like a cat, but not. its long, its thick and exhaust has to travel through really really small holes in it. I saw inside one. I didn't wonder why they get clogged up easily anymore. Also the DPF muffles the sound more than the stock mufflers.
Yes the DFP does add restriction to the exhaust system, however we would never recommend removing the DPF for a street car as its bad for the environment and highly illegal. The good news is we can still improve performance significantly without the removal of the DPF. have a look here at what we can offer in terms of Power Kits... www.mrttuned.com.au/mrt-staged-power-kits/high-performance-mrt-staged-power-kits-subaru/high-performance-mrt-staged-power-kits-forester/
@@JTmoto Hi I tuned my Impreza Diesel. The spec for tuning was 180hp / 420nm, but after delited the EGR in ECU and take out the material inside the DPF it ended up with 185hp / 488nm. So about 68 extra nm, not bad.
Seen 3 videos RE DPF/ Subaru TD, most informative in be seen yet . Purchased a 2012 Subaru Outback in August , drove it 3200kms from Darwin to Townsville. Have noticed recently when vehicle is cold ( usually just AFTER blue temp light goes out) on acceleration vehicle surges , like starving For fuel/air, doesn’t do after that , and drives nicely incl on acceleration . Any ideas ?
@MRT Performance Have you done any extra gauges? Like boost gauge. I want to put one on and have bought it.. Mind showcasing different applications in a video? I would need to find out the best place to route the vacuum line for the gauge and the manifold vacuum line to fit the T-piece in.
my subaru 2.0 d outback 2009 whit brand new engine 25000miles @ moment (original total 140000miles on the clock)keeps stalling when coming to traffic light.most off times on summer,winter looks ok.euro4.injectors original whit140000miles ,tested-ok.egr new,serviced every 4500 miles,turbo new,but sometimes not kicking in time,@ low rpm engine under power,5 gear drives good,bit smoke @ back -grey/brown smoke,any idea was wrong whit it,i do love it, so not going to sell:)))thanks
It's actually not crazy: the system needs to be able to reach operating temperature and it needs at least 15 minutes to burn off all that soot; in order to do that, the extra injector needs to inject fuel into the DPF chamber to raise the combustion temperature, and that only happens over 1,800 RPM. So if you drive the car purposely at 1,800 RPM or higher for at least 15 minutes every day, you are unlikely to have problems with the Cummins or with this EE20 boxer diesel. They just need to be given the chance to clean themselves.
Its different, Oil catch cans usually collect Blow-by oil under heavy boost. The way to fix this is mostly deleting the EGR valve, so the oil and dieselsoot doesnt get put back in front of the turbo. Older petrol engines can work with dual injection like some mazdas do, the good thing is you get better emissions from direct injection, but also the cleaning properties of the petrol that gets injected into the intake, cleaning all this shit off... Diesel are only direct injected cause they work between 1000-3000 bar of injection pressure
Euan Taylor .......A Provent catch can will help a lot, it will remove the oily residue from the PCV system which then doesn’t mix with the soot from the exhaust which is what causes the build up of black crap.
shane Reallly? I have a 2018 Colorado, for my own piece of mind after 6000 km i took the inlet hose off the throttle body and shone a torch inside, it had already started to soot up with gritty black shit stuck the inlet manifold, the oil in it is the Holden Dexos 2 oil that is in the car from the factory.. Since fitting the catch can and cleaning the inlet manifold with Liqui Moly Diesel inlet and throttle body cleaner there is no build up or oily residue in the manifold. The car had its first oil and filter change today at 8858 km and the inlet and throttle body were checked so i know it works...
shane, true , mine only had a bit, but we just did a mates 2012 Hilux on Saturday, he did his apprenticeship with Toyota and is a heavy diesel mechanic now, he has run the recommended oil in his its whole life and post PCV entering the manifold there was 12 mm of soft wet sooty buildup throughout his inlet this reduced the diameter by 24 mm. Pre PCV there was maybe a 1 mm buildup... The Provent catch can will remove about 99% of the oily residue from entering the inlet as mine has done over the last 2800km.
If the perfect oil existed that caused no crankcase oil particles to freely whiz about we would not have PCV systems. But here we are, with PCV systems. Nothing wrong with PCV, nothing wrong with EGR. But combine the 2 and you have oil saturated air mixing with carbon rich exhaust gases meaning your intake manifold and valves will now be subject to carbon mixed with oil, which is exactly what that Vegemite looking stuff is.
For the boxxer diesel in particular its wise to get the ecu mapped together with the first gen DPF cause its an active open system, instead of this passive closed one. Less backpressure but a bit more waste
Brett - is there any servicing that needs to be done to reduce soot buildup apart from scooping the build up out ? Also I missed my Wrx MRT tune since moving to a M135i. How about adding BMW to the list of manufacturers you support. Would love a XB kit for my car :)
Wish I saw this video before purchasing a Subaru Turbo Diesel, got it dirt cheap though, car is still in mint condition. Now I see why these are called money pits.
Thanks Brett - that was very informative. Luckily the world is moving towards electric cars where the soot problems are exported to the coal fired power plants we are so fond of here in Oz.
Emmisions control logic - don't let the emissions out the back of the car, make it circulate inside the motor until motor dies, emission problem solved.
How likely is it that poor injection plays a part in these soot issues, soot has to come from somewhere and in old money it would typically be poor injection.......
I,m lucky...I live in a less restricted part of Europe and I can take off my DPF cut it open take out the gubbins and throw it away. Performance back and a much happier diesel....I already blocked off the stupid (only for the greeno wankers) EGR. I might even just delete and go straight pipe......I intend to do away with the silencers anyway Jeep 2.8 CRD
Have my own 2011 Subaru Impreza since February 2024, originally had Euro 4 engine which I had to replace last month, hydrolocked from blown headgasket(s) 😂
Swapped in Euro 5 engine from a 2014 forester and started right up without need for mapping or anything, just reuse old wiring harness from my previous 2011 Euro 4 engine and its plug and play, no lights on dash or nothing, hop in and drive. Alot more soot build up on the 2014 compared to my 2011 though, because the dpf and egr was deleted and mapped out on it but those both carried over to the new engine, so its running pretty well so far, no more overheating or blown headgasket and hopefully less likely for a snapped crankshaft too 😂
I'm from Ireland where dpfs and egrs are deleted from majority of diesels and they still all pass inspection, inspection only really cares if the exhaust is way too loud or if there's a bunch of black smoke out of the exhaust which only happens if you remap it to do such things. most people just go to steel yards and fabricate their own downpipes and stuff and it saves a lot of trouble and makes the car alot better than when it came out of the factory.
brilliant vid !! thankyou for these.. please keep them coming (USA didnt get diesel so few vids are available for us)
Can you make a DPF delete video?
Thanks guys - this is really helpful and very informative. My UK Subaru Legacy 2.0 D (2011 MY) suffers from very variable performance - sometimes it pulls like a train and other times like a horse and cart - it varies even on the same journey. I'm wondering if your video's content is my trouble. Hopefully the DPF is ok though(!)
Great video Brett, thanks for sharing. Cheers
my xv diesel euro6 have oil consumption, 1liter every 10.000km here in Sardinia. No dpf issues. Oil motul 5w30 and Tunap in the fuelntank every year
Very good video. My 2010 diesel now has error code P0401 - egr flow insufficient - exited to see if it is soot causing this as the egr is new.
What's the verdict?
Cleaned manifold. Still a few instances with this error. Noticed that this error occurs when on cruisecontroll - with very high loading and in the same time low rpm. Ie when failing to shift down in time before pulling up a long hill on cruise. Knowing this I have stayed clear of these errors since with the new aftermarket egr and a clean manifold. Now I am thinking about egr delete. Will it work to block off the floe but still leave the valve operative to avoid errors?
How you could clean the intakes and to not affect the valves with cleaning solution? Or tou disassembled the entire ebgine heads?
If there was room in the engine bay, you could add a engine catch can Dorthy tor tornado canister by Pittsburgh power..
So strait pipe from the turbo back and an oil catch can?
And egr delete if applicable in your state/country
@@ThatJoshhGuy I have a blanking plate in the egr. Definitely not legal but very unlikely to get caught.
Hello, what is the torque applied to intake manifold bolts?
can the engine compression ratio can be adjusted to 8:1 so it can run on kerosene
Drove past you guys today. I was in the white wrx. You guys where towing your rally car on the Hume highway.
On our way to Adelaide!
Cool. Good luck there!
How you clean that? Can u make a Video?
Really good video, thanks!
If i want to get a good forester for day to day use, Would the NA petrol engine be the best way to go?
As a potential diesel Forester owner this is disturbing on such a young engine. Is there highr quality torbo hoses to swap out.
Would a catch can resolve some of the soot issues?
Hello! First, I'm subscribed to your videos because I think they are extremely professional and instructive, really great and thank you on all the information you present! I live in Europe and I also have one Forester diesel - my question is how much costs such "cleansing" and when it should be done (kilometers)? Many thanks in advance ;-)
Thanks very much for the encouragement Tito. The cost and frequency really depends entirely on how bad the soot buildup is and how the car is used. If it sees regular highway driving it will need to be cleaned less often than if it's always siting in traffic. Best to have it inspected for a professional opinion.
Thank you again Brett and all the best from Sweden :))
MRT Performance , will a oil catch can help prevent this on a Subaru diesel?
It worked on my 4bt Cummins.
Would an AOS help in this case and does the factory system come equipped with one in the first place?
Good heavens, I'll just stick to 90's and early 00's cars.
agreed. My pre global environmentanazism 1990 Land Rover can be repaired by just chucking rocks at it ;-)
"The ugly side of soot"...
more like: "The ugly side of DPFs and EGRs",....
Love your work!
Luckily I got 00 forester turbo petrol none of that euro 4 emissions crap.
How many kilometers does the car drive?
hello, You've mentioned BG chemical that aids in cleaning the diesel / oil soot, which one would You recommend specifically? - Thank You.
Utilizza i prodotti tedeschi Tunap, ti troverai bene e la Subaru diesel ringrazierà. Tunap 984 e 989
"For Australians, this looks like Vegemite" LMAO
If he said "black crap" he'd get in trouble with the Americans!!! We know what Vegemite means!
Probably tastes like it too.
Brett, is it true that the DPF in the Subaru Diesel engines is actually limiting the power figures? Do you also make modifications to the diesel engines, increasing their performance?
I can answer for him, YES. a big limiting factor. They did do a rally forester with DPF delete and ecu remap running i believe 197hp and 438nm tq, Brett correct me if im wrong.
The DPF is kinda like a cat, but not. its long, its thick and exhaust has to travel through really really small holes in it. I saw inside one. I didn't wonder why they get clogged up easily anymore. Also the DPF muffles the sound more than the stock mufflers.
Yes the DFP does add restriction to the exhaust system, however we would never recommend removing the DPF for a street car as its bad for the environment and highly illegal.
The good news is we can still improve performance significantly without the removal of the DPF.
have a look here at what we can offer in terms of Power Kits... www.mrttuned.com.au/mrt-staged-power-kits/high-performance-mrt-staged-power-kits-subaru/high-performance-mrt-staged-power-kits-forester/
@@JTmoto Hi I tuned my Impreza Diesel. The spec for tuning was 180hp / 420nm, but after delited the EGR in ECU and take out the material inside the DPF it ended up with 185hp / 488nm. So about 68 extra nm, not bad.
Seen 3 videos RE DPF/ Subaru TD, most informative in be seen yet . Purchased a 2012 Subaru Outback in August , drove it 3200kms from Darwin to Townsville. Have noticed recently when vehicle is cold ( usually just AFTER blue temp light goes out) on acceleration vehicle surges , like starving
For fuel/air, doesn’t do after that , and drives nicely incl on acceleration . Any ideas ?
IAC valve
@MRT Performance Have you done any extra gauges? Like boost gauge. I want to put one on and have bought it.. Mind showcasing different applications in a video? I would need to find out the best place to route the vacuum line for the gauge and the manifold vacuum line to fit the T-piece in.
Here's a video one of our employees made when he put a gauge in his own car..... th-cam.com/video/O6PivBApJ94/w-d-xo.html
my subaru 2.0 d outback 2009 whit brand new engine 25000miles @ moment (original total 140000miles on the clock)keeps stalling when coming to traffic light.most off times on summer,winter looks ok.euro4.injectors original whit140000miles ,tested-ok.egr new,serviced every 4500 miles,turbo new,but sometimes not kicking in time,@ low rpm engine under power,5 gear drives good,bit smoke @ back -grey/brown smoke,any idea was wrong whit it,i do love it, so not going to sell:)))thanks
Thank you 🙏.
Can a firmware upgrade to to CPU /ECU be used to rectify the faulty reading DPF problem?
No
Would a non turbo petrol forester have this problem?
This is for diesel models
I thought cummins diesel were bad but wow this is crazy.
It's actually not crazy: the system needs to be able to reach operating temperature and it needs at least 15 minutes to burn off all that soot; in order to do that, the extra injector needs to inject fuel into the DPF chamber to raise the combustion temperature, and that only happens over 1,800 RPM. So if you drive the car purposely at 1,800 RPM or higher for at least 15 minutes every day, you are unlikely to have problems with the Cummins or with this EE20 boxer diesel. They just need to be given the chance to clean themselves.
The black sh*t is called mämmi in Finland. It's a traditional delicacy.
TORILLE
Subaru building the intake and exhaust upside down since the boxers inception
Can you use a oil catch to avoid this issue? Or is it a completely different situation?
Its different, Oil catch cans usually collect Blow-by oil under heavy boost. The way to fix this is mostly deleting the EGR valve, so the oil and dieselsoot doesnt get put back in front of the turbo.
Older petrol engines can work with dual injection like some mazdas do, the good thing is you get better emissions from direct injection, but also the cleaning properties of the petrol that gets injected into the intake, cleaning all this shit off... Diesel are only direct injected cause they work between 1000-3000 bar of injection pressure
Would you recommend any product to help prevent or reduce this build up?
Euan Taylor .......A Provent catch can will help a lot, it will remove the oily residue from the PCV system which then doesn’t mix with the soot from the exhaust which is what causes the build up of black crap.
shane Reallly? I have a 2018 Colorado, for my own piece of mind after 6000 km i took the inlet hose off the throttle body and shone a torch inside, it had already started to soot up with gritty black shit stuck the inlet manifold, the oil in it is the Holden Dexos 2 oil that is in the car from the factory.. Since fitting the catch can and cleaning the inlet manifold with Liqui Moly Diesel inlet and throttle body cleaner there is no build up or oily residue in the manifold. The car had its first oil and filter change today at 8858 km and the inlet and throttle body were checked so i know it works...
shane, true , mine only had a bit, but we just did a mates 2012 Hilux on Saturday, he did his apprenticeship with Toyota and is a heavy diesel mechanic now, he has run the recommended oil in his its whole life and post PCV entering the manifold there was 12 mm of soft wet sooty buildup throughout his inlet this reduced the diameter by 24 mm. Pre PCV there was maybe a 1 mm buildup... The Provent catch can will remove about 99% of the oily residue from entering the inlet as mine has done over the last 2800km.
If the perfect oil existed that caused no crankcase oil particles to freely whiz about we would not have PCV systems. But here we are, with PCV systems. Nothing wrong with PCV, nothing wrong with EGR. But combine the 2 and you have oil saturated air mixing with carbon rich exhaust gases meaning your intake manifold and valves will now be subject to carbon mixed with oil, which is exactly what that Vegemite looking stuff is.
SO, can we suppress the EGR and the particule filter, and perhaps the debimeter - Some guys told me it was a great (and powerfull) solution.
For the boxxer diesel in particular its wise to get the ecu mapped together with the first gen DPF cause its an active open system, instead of this passive closed one.
Less backpressure but a bit more waste
Brilliant explanation, thanks from Lismore NSW
Brett - is there any servicing that needs to be done to reduce soot buildup apart from scooping the build up out ?
Also I missed my Wrx MRT tune since moving to a M135i. How about adding BMW to the list of manufacturers you support. Would love a XB kit for my car :)
Servicing won’t stop it :( but a good oil additive at service time will reduce it
And there goes the EGR and DPF system off my car..........lol
Wish I saw this video before purchasing a Subaru Turbo Diesel, got it dirt cheap though, car is still in mint condition. Now I see why these are called money pits.
Just gut the dpf if you get trouble and blank egr
Am i only one who has problems on what he is saying 1:50 ?
And this is why when customers try and buy the $12 catalogue 20W50 mineral oil for their 2013 Mercedes SUV, I give up.
I bet the customer is now selling his left kidney to afford a new genuine Subaru DPF. I’d love to know the cost of this service repair
Sneaky Foz probably 2-3k....
Balo657 is that GST?
Cheaper to just delete it ( dpf) and run two high flow cats. One on the down pipe & one near the muffler
2-3k? Your prices suck. 4k is only car in my country.
$7k DPF only Genuine in Australia
Thanks Brett - that was very informative. Luckily the world is moving towards electric cars where the soot problems are exported to the coal fired power plants we are so fond of here in Oz.
Emmisions control logic - don't let the emissions out the back of the car, make it circulate inside the motor until motor dies, emission problem solved.
How about a delete
I don't think I want to try veggie might anymore
How likely is it that poor injection plays a part in these soot issues, soot has to come from somewhere and in old money it would typically be poor injection.......
Looks like vegemite hahaha
To be honest i would rather have this stuff sticking in my car then my lungs
I,m lucky...I live in a less restricted part of Europe and I can take off my DPF cut it open take out the gubbins and throw it away. Performance back and a much happier diesel....I already blocked off the stupid (only for the greeno wankers) EGR. I might even just delete and go straight pipe......I intend to do away with the silencers anyway Jeep 2.8 CRD