Dude... my father passed away now.. can I adopt you? This was as good a video as I could have ever found regarding that air intake...and I learned so much more! And here I was thinking it would be a 1-2-3 guide on removal/repair... nope... this is the work from which all others can be derived... this is GOLD! Well done.
Good job. Not everyone may appreciate the equations but you did your best with the explanation and I encourage you to press on with learning more as you encounter the opportunities. To derive these equations and use "proper terms" would require mastering some level of engineering courses dealing with aerodynamics or fluid flow. Nobody learns this overnight. I have 50 years of education and experience on engines of all types and I struggle to keep on learning every day and refreshing my math skills. Its all important. Thanks, George Anderson
Amazing job man, I cannot stress enough how informative and simple these videos are for people, and I work professionally as a technician for European cars. I use these to help explain the job to customers so they can better understand what is going on with their vehicle.
Mechanical theory of the intake manifold engineering is definitely a very unique explanation on sites like the TH-cam when it comes to DIYers! Most are self taught or have some degree of hand-on working knowledge of how to but your theoretical engineering explanation almost 909% of the time flies over DIYers head! Very impressive and certainly very unique abilities you have so skillfully demonstrated in this video. Obviously, you certainly have mechanical engineering or automobile enginering background! Thank you and again very unusual quality of automobile engineering one experiences in such TH-cam blogs! Great work indeed!
Owner of a MB R350 4 Matic and a female who knows nothing about cars .. thank you for your explanation on intake manifolds. I really appreciate it now I can fully understand what happened and why . I have to replace intake manifold and turbine speed sensor. .so I really appreciate it and the time you took to make this video
iRepair Autos I got a metal replacement intake manifold with the levers but I’m thinking I should’ve gotten the plastic one?? I’m confused bout replacing that and the speed turbine sensor can only be fixed at Mercedes I have a 2007 clk 350 with 120000 miles
I kept telling my MB dealer what was happening to my vehicle. IT seemed crazy to me it wouldn't go a first but if I stopped and then pumped the brakes it would be OK. Your explanation really makes sense.... finally a car shop figured it out.Thanks .
Been watching your vids for a while. I immediately sensed you were a MB Master mech. Your understanding of the Helmholtz effect hints that you were involved with MB factory training, perhaps in europe. Thanks for all the dope, as I maintain a 2010 GL450, 2006 ML350 , 2015 GLK350... MB cars, there are none better...
I loved your video it just made me realize that I have to buy a whole new intake manifold because the inner flap on the right is broken at the base and I was gonna buy the repair kit till I watched ur video THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH YOU SAVED ME A COUPLE C-NOTES
The video is very detailed , and your information is in depth. I appreciate your time that you took to even go this far to describe using calculus! . EXECELLANT . I have 2007 m272 2.5 with 68 k miles which had a counter bal. shaft sprocket disintegrate .... it fell into a hole with MB ,,which we were never notified ..etc... and when we took it into MB they said .... engine ... I said ..... ( ) and here we are.... After doing a bunch of research and getting the lists and Utube reviews , for a very good price ( time not included) I did all of the engine / counter bal . R/R .... and it runs like a top .... no engine check code .... When I finished the R/R I noticed that there is no OIL pressure input to the ECM so I removed the port cover , drilled and tapped for a US threaded 1/8 pipe and mounted a oil gauge under the hood (temp) . Just to watch ... Oil pressure is 75 lbs. cold and 30-35 hot. All lifters and rockers cleaned and free from any varnish.... Current issue is a click-click noise ( sounds like an old chev valve lifter) BUT raising the rpm to above 1750 -2200 the click goes away .... dropping rpm down to idle click comes back as you cross over 1750 slowly dropping quickly it seems to hold off from click for a longer time... ( vacuum?) Just like -- down shifting rpm goes up to slow the vehicle (vacuum up) as the car slows and then the clicking returns again .... almost at stop..... I can repeat this 1000 times . I've read about the short and long paths for the intake and that at 1750 + the switch generally takes place. Now even though I have no engine code ... I am very suspicious of the intake broken inside .... Your time and consideration is appreciated... I do have a video
Yes , just last week I removed the drv side valve cover , both cams , all rockers and lifters ---one at a time --- and cleaned ALL varnish that I could see, exercised each lifter to remove varnish --- if any --- they all seemed to react the same--- and then I specifically looked for any clogged up oil pathway from the oil filter up to the head and up to the cover where the oil splits to go to intakes and exhaust lifters.... lastly the rockers with their tiny spray hole pointed at the roller ---. I found shinny lifters and rockers at the valve stem and rollers - the were some marks on the rollers but I paid close attention to all gasket gluing and areas of concern that MB shows in the Docs. I am still wondering about the vacuum possibility --- when slowing down , foot off the gas, the vacuum goes up to max and that's when the click goes quiet... then as you slow to a stop , vacuum drops down a little and the click returns ....that scenario takes me to the intake....? it is repeatable , over and over ...you have a lot more experiences than I .... again no engine check thanks for listening
Thanks for putting this together - we've got a 2k7 C230 with this issue. Replaced with aluminum actuator, runners seem to actuate okay, but got a map sensor out of range code now. Your vid was very helpful.
This was one of the most informative videos as to the workings of the Mercedes intake manifold .very well put togather very to the point and very well communicated.you should probably be doing something other than working on cars .As a tech who has over 35 years experience and has watched probably hundreds of training videos yours was a good one.top notch.maybe not as entertaining as the trunk monkey series my instructors liked to show but very well put togather .thank you nice job
Great video! I loved the theory of operation. The formulas was a little deep, but did convince me that you know your stuff. You are Very knowledgeable! Thanks for sharing 👍 !!!
I designed and fabricated a new piece for the broken one and cleaned the inside of the intake bench tested it 100 X worked perfect.Put it back in the car and it has worked perfect......cost me about $2.00
So good information! I am trying to fix a misfire I replaced the broken lever in front but still skipping and is not the spark neither the coil I have good compression I will say maybe I have internal broken parts in the manifold. With your all explanation I understand much better the theory. Thank you so much.
Excellent video. Being an engineer, I found it very interesting to understand the theory. I am going to take a look (physical inspection and scan tool) at a friend's 2008 C350 that has the following report by the owner...."codes that were set were: P2006 $7E8 INT MAN RUNNER CNTL STUCK CLOSED BANK 1A; P0300 $7E8 RNDM MULT CYL MISFIRE DETECTED. This originally occurred on 2/5/19. Car was running like crap on start up. I shut it off, waited a few minutes, then started it again and it has run fine ever since. " Is this common to have an intermittent or one time P2006 code accompanied by P0300? If so, what would you recommend to prevent its reoccurrence? I notice it mentions "bank 1" so does that mean there are 2 position sensors in the system, one on each bank or is this misleading? Thank you for the great video and your response.
@iRepair Autos I'd be interested also to know about the actual failure explanations. The root cause being the gummed up or broken internal flaps. You replaced the swivel with the upgraded aluminium piece, but what did you do with the internal components that caused the swivel to snap?
hello sir, thanks for the explanation and efforts, but i have a question about the those Three diaphragm, what are the symptoms of dameged or not functioning two smaller diaphragm,
Hey Keith, first off I want to say thank you. Without your knowledge abd experience I would never have taken on and resolved many issues with my 2007 gl450 and 2008 e350. So both my wallet and I thank you! The air intake manifold on my e350 has failed. The plastic actuator on the front has broken. I ordered an after market metal one to replace it and I am going to follow your amazing step by step video on removing the manifold in order to access it. I will also, in line with your recommendation, replace the crankcase breather oil drop pan sysyem. Since they are so cheap I will replace the injector o-rings also. I also saw your video on cleaning the manifold to get most of he gunk off the flaps inside. Even though the actuator broke the arms and hence the flaps still move very easily and smoothly. Should I pull the manifold completely and do the cleaning with the Gunk cleaner or by taking it all apart like that could I be causing myself more problems? Any suggestions, warnings, tips, etc. You can give me would be highly appericated. I am no mechanic but trust your instructions and judgement over anyone elses. Thanks again for everything you do.
Great explanation , I just came across with the issue and i am a DYI as much as I can , not a mechanic at all but I love working in my cars , question : can I just replace the actuator and the gaskets ? Or should I go for the whole manifold ?
Very interesting and WELL explained, so you are referring the 'neck' as where the air exits the intake and is about to enter the combustion chamber so right after the air leaves the runners/flaps ?
Hope you're feeling better. 2008 Mercedes C300 - How much manifold pressure at idle? I measure about 15mmgh at the MAP sensor line. Also: How much torque on manifold bolts?
Very good job. but don't be disappointed if you don't get the attention you deserve. This is too advance for most people who use youtube to repair stuff. I can tell that you are a smart engineer ... I was trying to learn how to replace the part not designing it.
Hi great explainton on this topic . question .is it adviseable to repair / replace broken pôiece with aluminum kit. On a high mileage gl 450 .or should replace manifold assy. . thanks.
I watched both of your videoes for Mercedes Air Intake Manifold....great hand-on video and explaination!!! My car is Mercedes R350 Bluetec 2010, and I have a code P2005, "bank 2 is stuck in the open position", with a engine light on but no adverse effect on engine performance....this is almost identical to Michel Chaber's 2011 model and performance symptom. My car is 80,000 miles. If it's not struck as OBD error code indicates, what else could trigger the error? Thanks!!
Yeah, so Mercedes put a fucking unreliable plastic trombone on the engine intake. I appreciate you geeking out on the math of the resonance tuning. But fuck Mercedes for using plastic and burying the intake manifold under a ton of other components.
This was very helpful, but I have a question. The flap connecting to the aluminum plaque in between the 2 interior flaps broke. Do you have any recommendations? Thank you
I have a code P2005 With a engine light on but no adverse effect on engine performance. what do you think is the problem . Mercedes R350 Bluetec 2011. Great video.
It may no longer be stuck. If it is still stuck, then your computer will adjust the fuel to air mixture air ratios. It will eventually cause performance problems if it is still stuck. How many miles on the vehicle? Have you changed the rebreather port cover, the hose etc?
In the process of buying a 2011 E350 and this problem has me spooked. Would running a can of injector cleaner through at regular intervals help prevent this problem?
great video im about to change my now but im having 1 issues when i turn the car on the fan runs like a turbo and it loud changed the face changed the sensor so is this wats causing my fan to run like this
Keith, Got a quick question. When should the putter flaps be closed and open. I start my car and monitor flaps valve moment from the outside. Valve does not close or open in idle or at high idle RPM around 3000 to 3500 RPM range. My understanding is that in idle flaps should be close or open and close as needed roughly every few seconds.
I was told that my Mercedes manifold was cracked in two areas so I need to put a new manifold. is that possible? the garage did not want me to observe the repairs in the back. thank you
Hey thanks for the video I just saw this video and it was so helpful. i have one question though. I have a 2007 Mercedes E350 with engine codes p2188 and p2190 do you think there might be association with broken Flaps?
Do you think spraying WD-40 as lubrication or spraying Aerospace Protectant to keep the plastic from getting brittle without removal of the Manifold would help?
Hi K, Will a failing manifold cause a faulty #1 cylinder misfire? been having a misfire on #1 on a 08 MB CLS550 and I've exhausted all my avenues within my mean of diagnosing. I saw 1 vid with an EGR valve issue but several of yours with changing plugs, coils...etc. any further advise before I hit the dealer,,, what I don't want. Thanks in advance K!
At the conclusion of this video you say if the set of flaps which is the innermost ones (interior) are broken you would not suggest repair. Are you then suggesting only replacement or is removal and repair a reasonable course of action? Thank you.
I suggest replacement - It's an 8 hour job for the first timer. You don't want to have to do it again. With that said, if you are living in a country where the unit is not easily available or highly expensive then repair is possible. It's just a pain in the neck (literally). The unit brand new is roughly between $500 to $700 USD
my scanner is throwing the code 0521 saying that the charg movement flap has a malfunction. but, i had that replaced a few months ago. the engine light has been OFF. my car runs great.. what is the issue you think?
Hi, great video! I'm getting (2) P2004 codes (bank 1a stuck open)...but the main actuator is working and the 2 outers seem to be ok, not broken. The car is running ok. A little hesitation when accelerating, but not bad. Idles fine. Any clues to what is going on? Thanks
Thank you for your knowledge. My 2007 E350 just came out with the following code, whats your first impression? P2006 Generic Current Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1a
hi bro I always watch you, you are good in explaining, I have learned from you but I need your help i have 2007 ml350 4matic and the problem is that when you start the engine it smoke to the worst when you driving a lots of black smoke places if you have any idea to it places let me know, for me i live in Columbus oh thanks i wait to hear from you thanks
Recently, one of my intake, manifold runners broke, and when I drive the car, it’s giving gas, but the RPMs are jumping high or sleeping as my mechanic said, and I did get the codes and he came back to the manifold runner and the camshaft but he’s telling me that it’s a transmission issue is that true?
great video, very interesting pinciples at work.It's good to know what I'm replacing. My r350 has 140k on it and the actuator bracket is broken. Your video on the intake replacement was excellent and has given me the confidence to taken on the job. I noticed you used the RBT remanufactured intake with the update Aluminum bracket. My question Is, Does the Peirburg come with the updated bracket? and is it better than the RBT? Thanks a bunch, great vids,
+J Shadler I'm not sure what Peirburg has for hardware. Peirburg however is a brand new part were as RBT is remanufactured. Peirburg also comes with a lifetime warranty from what I've been told.
I think this is my issue I've got a rough idel sometimes it will rev up without giving it gas and rev higher with gas pressed to however taking off and normal driving is fine
hello, where does the other end of the map senor hose connect to? I disconnected it when I took the manifold off and can not find any where to connect it? Thank you
Bonjour je possède une Mercedes e320 essence v6 , j ai une question : es ce que a chaque fois qu' on accélère l actionneur en plastique bouge ? car j ai nettoyer l admission et contrôler les claper tout est ok , les injecteur neuf .mais la voiture a des rater et l actionneur ne bouge pas . il y a un seul actionneur . merci pour votre aide
The middle actuator broke at the connection point. It still idles fine. I do have check engine with the codes. Will this also give false O2 sensor readings?
Sounds like my issue now. Idles fine. I never would have know except shop just told me. I'm passing on fixing it now because of other work I'm getting done. I wish my shop dealt with the repair kits that are available.
Stay away from those repair kits. They end up causing more damage internally. Best to get a new intake, especially since you have to remove the intake in both cases.
The vehicle , a 2006 ML350, has 140000 miles on it. in speaking to my mechanic today, he seemed to feel that the best course of action is to replace the intake exactly because of those other flaps that simply break off and gets sucked into the engine. so I'm back to being of the mind that it needs to be replaced even if it can be repaired for the short run and can cause serious engine damage
Even the 'updated' manifold is only partially improved, only a FEW upgraded pieces not all and yes I have seen someone here where their 'flap' broke and ruined his engine- basically its a gamble,if you want to replace just the linkage then that might last without guarantee that's flaps wont fail, however replacing entire manifold doesn't guarantee that flaps wont fail== plastic combined with high heat === problems
This damaged flapper/actuators caused me A check engine code p0300 it suggested a misfire and to change spark plugs but i did and yes the flapper was the issue for the misfire
I have an intake where one of the plastic rods is broken, not the center piece. Can it be repaired? I've seen repair kits for the center piece but not the rods. Help! Thanks in advance.
Google this part: Intake Manifold Actuator (Fits: ML350). You should be able to replace it with that. Remember what I said in the video. You need to make sure the internal flaps are in the correct position. Good luck.
Keith just a question, I am pretty sure I have this problem. I have also read that it's just a performance problem. If i never get my rpm over 3,000 would it matter of the flap is stuck closed?
It might be a performance problem for some. It all depends on the position of the flaps at failure. If the flaps then move it will cause major issues either at idle or at high speed. You don't want to let this issue sit. It will eventually get worse and cause other problems.
@@iRepairAutos Thank you so much, I already have the rough idle after a stop at a light etc. I am watching your video how to remove the manifold and studying it and will tackle soon on a warmer day. The "oil drip pan" always clockwise to remove?
@@iRepairAutos Keith i finally got the air intake off, I'm noticing oil inside the intake and also in the throttle body. Also oil on the injector plug and i believe also inside the cam magnet plug...advice?
Great job, didn’t know the car engine runs on oxygen ;)… air is what engine use where I’m form and here nitrogen gets 78% to 21% oxygen.. 1% mixed gasses
The real question is how did those flaps get gunk? Oil / build up / gummy and sticky of oil. The next question, is where did the oil come from. This will leads back to a few video this guy had shown. It all came from the PCV tube --->> PCV cover & oil separator. I believe this is the source of oil / oil fumes that gets into the drum oil intake. This is unpreventable, even with changing out the PCV cover or the oil separator. The oil fume will still travel down to the MAF / air intake and cause all these oil / sticky gummy crap. What can be done is add a oil separator as a final defense on this line. He has another video that shows this type of installation on this line. It may not be 100% since some fumes will still get back into the MAF as the line is design to, but at least you minimize it.
2007 C280 4Matic I've got a weird issue. I have the P2004 code that comes and goes. Checked the plastic pieces as best I could without disassembly and nothing is broken. Idle and speeding up back down to idle are perfectly fine except on hills at stops. Sometimes on hills driving up or down the RPMs go really high and it up shifts late giving a slightly rough shift. Like 2000-3500RPM it only does this on 2nd gear. I also noticed a lot of gunk build up around the plastic pieces of the manifold. Sprayed it with some MAF cleaner to get some loose. Any ideas?
sometimes the pneumatic parts on the air intake are stuck open and or closed and are not broken. Take a look at this video here: th-cam.com/video/bKiNsMoAm_M/w-d-xo.html
I just did mine but I noticed the flaps or arms move only when you rev high is that normal? I thought that it shouldmove at all times low idle and steady 2000 rpm am I wrong ? I want to make sure its not defective
I was wondering if you can help me with this problem. I replaced the rear expansion seals when the engine get warmed up the seal get pressured out. Mercedes said that the engine ports are clogged up but when I removed the valve covers it looks very clean with no sludge. 2008 ML350
Inspect the rebreather hose. Is that clogged or crimped? Do you have too much oil in the engine? What grade oil? Did his start to happen after you installed the expansion seals or before?
Hey bro I’m haveing a problem with my Mercedes one of my flaps is broken I dt want to replace the intake can u help me out just need some advice on a few things..thanks in advance
I just took out my intake manifold because In have been consistently getting a P2006 code. Surprisingly, I did not see any linkage broken. The entire system is moving freely and the flaps inside are moving and closing without any resistance. What do you think could be the issue?
Try to move those flaps again slowey and quickly, do not damage them. They may be jamming up. Wipe them with a clean cloth. Do the have gunk? This could be part give issue that is building.
@@iRepairAutos l found the breakage near the bottom of the central actuating rod. Now should I replace the entire manifold or buy that actuating rod and lever made of aluminium and replace mine with this??
Open circuit means that the electrical connection could be disconnected either through a faulty connection point. Or a damaged wire. Check the connections on the back of the air intake manifold.
Hi there, answering 5 years later. Those are electro valves. They're driven by ECU and sensors, so when the ECU decides to open or close or something in between, those electro valves open and allow the vacuum coming from the intake manifold thru a rubber hose, to reach the vacuum (diaphragm) actuators and they pull or push those plastic rods and turn the flaps to the desired position.
Hello. I have a problem with my c280. The problem is a P2015 Code. Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1). Do you have any idea what it means?
Yes, the sensor detects that the internal flap on bank 1, is moving but not through the full range of motion. Check your air intake rods for obstruction. I have a video on this here: th-cam.com/video/bKiNsMoAm_M/w-d-xo.html
Vehicle performance will get worse. Flaps on the inside may move and make the vehicle not idle and stall out at lights and then plastic pieces can get into the pistons and cause engine damage.
Hi. I originally had a p2006 code. I replaced the broken lever with an aluminum one. My car get an additional 6 miles/gal, increase power and no vibration during idle. however, I now get a P2004 and a P0410 code. All the flappers are Together and working, no vacuum leaks are found, no gas or air leaks, and all connectors are returned correctly. I reset the error code and in 24 hours it always return. Do you have any idea what the problem can be? Or where should I start to resolve.
The air intake manifold has internal flaps that open and close... These parts are plastic and get coated in carbon build up. Once that happens they get sticky and don't open and close as they should. That's what caused your broken lever. Now that that lever is fixed you still have the internal issue in the manifold... check out my video explaining this here: th-cam.com/video/HTXNUE0N75Q/w-d-xo.html ; I think you're going to need a new manifold... Or you could open and clean the one you have but that's asking for more trouble down the road...
Dude... my father passed away now.. can I adopt you? This was as good a video as I could have ever found regarding that air intake...and I learned so much more! And here I was thinking it would be a 1-2-3 guide on removal/repair... nope... this is the work from which all others can be derived... this is GOLD! Well done.
This is why I love TH-cam. You never know what gem you will uncover.
This explanation is way better than AI
Good job. Not everyone may appreciate the equations but you did your best with the explanation and I encourage you to press on with learning more as you encounter the opportunities. To derive these equations and use "proper terms" would require mastering some level of engineering courses dealing with aerodynamics or fluid flow. Nobody learns this overnight. I have 50 years of education and experience on engines of all types and I struggle to keep on learning every day and refreshing my math skills. Its all important. Thanks, George Anderson
Amazing job man, I cannot stress enough how informative and simple these videos are for people, and I work professionally as a technician for European cars. I use these to help explain the job to customers so they can better understand what is going on with their vehicle.
Mechanical theory of the intake manifold engineering is definitely a very unique explanation on sites like the TH-cam when it comes to DIYers! Most are self taught or have some degree of hand-on working knowledge of how to but your theoretical engineering explanation almost 909% of the time flies over DIYers head! Very impressive and certainly very unique abilities you have so skillfully demonstrated in this video. Obviously, you certainly have mechanical engineering or automobile enginering background! Thank you and again very unusual quality of automobile engineering one experiences in such TH-cam blogs! Great work indeed!
Owner of a MB R350 4 Matic and a female who knows nothing about cars .. thank you for your explanation on intake manifolds. I really appreciate it now I can fully understand what happened and why . I have to replace intake manifold and turbine speed sensor. .so I really appreciate it and the time you took to make this video
Tuff Boss how did you replace the speed sensor
I have the same two problems and I bought a intake manifold but I can’t buy a speed sensor
What error codes are you getting that lead you to wanting to replace the speed sensor?
iRepair Autos p2006 p2004
iRepair Autos I got a metal replacement intake manifold with the levers but I’m thinking I should’ve gotten the plastic one?? I’m confused bout replacing that and the speed turbine sensor can only be fixed at Mercedes I have a 2007 clk 350 with 120000 miles
I kept telling my MB dealer what was happening to my vehicle. IT seemed crazy to me it wouldn't go a first but if I stopped and then pumped the brakes it would be OK. Your explanation really makes sense.... finally a car shop figured it out.Thanks .
Awesome! Thank You For Advice. Removed the intake and cleaned it till the binding was removed. P2004 was resolved.
Been watching your vids for a while. I immediately sensed you were a MB Master mech. Your understanding of the Helmholtz effect hints that you were involved with MB factory training, perhaps in europe. Thanks for all the dope, as I maintain a 2010 GL450, 2006 ML350 , 2015 GLK350... MB cars, there are none better...
Hello there. Kind words. I’m not a Mercedes trained tech. I just love the subject and spent allot of time with the brand
I loved your video it just made me realize that I have to buy a whole new intake manifold because the inner flap on the right is broken at the base and I was gonna buy the repair kit till I watched ur video THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH YOU SAVED ME A COUPLE C-NOTES
This need to be voted the best video on YT
The video is very detailed , and your information is in depth. I appreciate your time that you took to even go this far to describe using calculus! . EXECELLANT . I have 2007 m272 2.5 with 68 k miles which had a counter bal. shaft sprocket disintegrate .... it fell into a hole with MB ,,which we were never notified ..etc... and when we took it into MB they said .... engine ... I said ..... ( ) and here we are.... After doing a bunch of research and getting the lists and Utube reviews , for a very good price ( time not included) I did all of the engine / counter bal . R/R .... and it runs like a top .... no engine check code .... When I finished the R/R I noticed that there is no OIL pressure input to the ECM so I removed the port cover , drilled and tapped for a US threaded 1/8 pipe and mounted a oil gauge under the hood (temp) . Just to watch ... Oil pressure is 75 lbs. cold and 30-35 hot.
All lifters and rockers cleaned and free from any varnish....
Current issue is a click-click noise ( sounds like an old chev valve lifter) BUT
raising the rpm to above 1750 -2200 the click goes away ....
dropping rpm down to idle click comes back as you cross over 1750 slowly
dropping quickly it seems to hold off from click for a longer time... ( vacuum?)
Just like -- down shifting rpm goes up to slow the vehicle (vacuum up) as the car slows and then the clicking returns again .... almost at stop..... I can repeat this 1000 times .
I've read about the short and long paths for the intake and that at 1750 + the switch generally takes place.
Now even though I have no engine code ... I am very suspicious of the intake broken inside ....
Your time and consideration is appreciated... I do have a video
Seems like an oil port may be blocked and lifters aren't being given enough oil. Did you check those for wear?
Yes , just last week I removed the drv side valve cover , both cams , all rockers and lifters ---one at a time --- and cleaned ALL varnish that I could see, exercised each lifter to remove varnish --- if any --- they all seemed to react the same--- and then I specifically looked for any clogged up oil pathway from the oil filter up to the head and up to the cover where the oil splits to go to intakes and exhaust lifters.... lastly the rockers with their tiny spray hole pointed at the roller ---. I found shinny lifters and rockers at the valve stem and rollers - the were some marks on the rollers but I paid close attention to all gasket gluing and areas of concern that MB shows in the Docs.
I am still wondering about the vacuum possibility --- when slowing down , foot off the gas, the vacuum goes up to max and that's when the click goes quiet... then as you slow to a stop , vacuum drops down a little and the click returns ....that scenario takes me to the intake....?
it is repeatable , over and over ...you have a lot more experiences than I .... again no engine check
thanks for listening
Your Engineering methods is well observed and it's material used. too many problems in a short distance .
Thanks for putting this together - we've got a 2k7 C230 with this issue. Replaced with aluminum actuator, runners seem to actuate okay, but got a map sensor out of range code now. Your vid was very helpful.
WOW!! This is some GREAT information!! I thought I'd be bored by all the math stuff, but it was actually very interesting. THANKS FOR POSTING!!
Great explanation and much appreciation for the physics behind this variable intake. Thanks
You're welcome!
This was one of the most informative videos as to the workings of the Mercedes intake manifold .very well put togather very to the point and very well communicated.you should probably be doing something other than working on cars .As a tech who has over 35 years experience and has watched probably hundreds of training videos yours was a good one.top notch.maybe not as entertaining as the trunk monkey series my instructors liked to show but very well put togather .thank you nice job
Great video! I loved the theory of operation. The formulas was a little deep, but did convince me that you know your stuff. You are Very knowledgeable! Thanks for sharing 👍 !!!
I designed and fabricated a new piece for the broken one and cleaned the inside of the intake bench tested it 100 X worked perfect.Put it back in the car and it has worked perfect......cost me about $2.00
how did u do so? will u sell me one?
Did you have to replace the actuator or those don’t go bad. ?
So good information!
I am trying to fix a misfire I replaced the broken lever in front but still skipping and is not the spark neither the coil I have good compression I will say maybe I have internal broken parts in the manifold. With your all explanation I understand much better the theory.
Thank you so much.
thank you so much this video gave me great help and details about whats wrong with my Mercedes a lot makes sense now
Glad the video helped clear up some things. Thanks for the feedback.
This is really very helpful. Thank you for patiently explaining the details. I am better informed now.
Excellent video. Being an engineer, I found it very interesting to understand the theory.
I am going to take a look (physical inspection and scan tool) at a friend's 2008 C350 that has the following report by the owner...."codes that were set were: P2006 $7E8 INT MAN RUNNER CNTL STUCK CLOSED BANK 1A; P0300 $7E8 RNDM MULT CYL MISFIRE DETECTED. This originally occurred on 2/5/19. Car was running like crap on start up. I shut it off, waited a few minutes, then started it again and it has run fine ever since. "
Is this common to have an intermittent or one time P2006 code accompanied by P0300? If so, what would you recommend to prevent its reoccurrence? I notice it mentions "bank 1" so does that mean there are 2 position sensors in the system, one on each bank or is this misleading?
Thank you for the great video and your response.
Just saved me about $2000 as per my mechanic, thanks... great job
Sweet! Love to hear that. Like, share, subscribe, donate! Lol
@iRepair Autos
I'd be interested also to know about the actual failure explanations. The root cause being the gummed up or broken internal flaps.
You replaced the swivel with the upgraded aluminium piece, but what did you do with the internal components that caused the swivel to snap?
I just ordered a new manifold Thank you💯
hello sir, thanks for the explanation and efforts, but i have a question about the those Three diaphragm, what are the symptoms of dameged or not functioning two smaller diaphragm,
Hey Keith, first off I want to say thank you. Without your knowledge abd experience I would never have taken on and resolved many issues with my 2007 gl450 and 2008 e350. So both my wallet and I thank you!
The air intake manifold on my e350 has failed. The plastic actuator on the front has broken. I ordered an after market metal one to replace it and I am going to follow your amazing step by step video on removing the manifold in order to access it. I will also, in line with your recommendation, replace the crankcase breather oil drop pan sysyem. Since they are so cheap I will replace the injector o-rings also. I also saw your video on cleaning the manifold to get most of he gunk off the flaps inside. Even though the actuator broke the arms and hence the flaps still move very easily and smoothly. Should I pull the manifold completely and do the cleaning with the Gunk cleaner or by taking it all apart like that could I be causing myself more problems? Any suggestions, warnings, tips, etc. You can give me would be highly appericated. I am no mechanic but trust your instructions and judgement over anyone elses. Thanks again for everything you do.
Excellent video and thorough description of issue. Well done!!!!
Thanks! Hope this video helps with this issue.
Great explanation , I just came across with the issue and i am a DYI as much as I can , not a mechanic at all but I love working in my cars , question : can I just replace the actuator and the gaskets ? Or should I go for the whole manifold ?
Very interesting and WELL explained, so you are referring the 'neck' as where the air exits the intake and is about to enter the combustion chamber so right after the air leaves the runners/flaps ?
Greatest illustration EVER!
Hope you're feeling better.
2008 Mercedes C300 - How much manifold pressure at idle? I measure about 15mmgh at the MAP sensor line.
Also: How much torque on manifold bolts?
Very good job. but don't be disappointed if you don't get the attention you deserve. This is too advance for most people who use youtube to repair stuff. I can tell that you are a smart engineer ... I was trying to learn how to replace the part not designing it.
How much to
Replace the whole thing ?
Hi great explainton on this topic . question .is it adviseable to repair / replace broken pôiece with aluminum kit. On a high mileage gl 450 .or should replace manifold assy. . thanks.
Pretty Awesome video...I'm excited about getting down to the bottom of my car issues.
I watched both of your videoes for Mercedes Air Intake Manifold....great hand-on video and explaination!!!
My car is Mercedes R350 Bluetec 2010, and I have a code P2005, "bank 2 is stuck in the open position", with a engine light on but no adverse effect on engine performance....this is almost identical to Michel Chaber's 2011 model and performance symptom. My car is 80,000 miles.
If it's not struck as OBD error code indicates, what else could trigger the error? Thanks!!
Seems that it happened today going to work. Is it safe for me to drive back home tonight?
Yeah, so Mercedes put a fucking unreliable plastic trombone on the engine intake. I appreciate you geeking out on the math of the resonance tuning. But fuck Mercedes for using plastic and burying the intake manifold under a ton of other components.
Can I fix the issue without taking the manifold out? I have a stuck intake manifold Runner on my 2008 350 silk. NO CEL light on yet. Thanks!
This was very helpful, but I have a question. The flap connecting to the aluminum plaque in between the 2 interior flaps broke. Do you have any recommendations? Thank you
I have a code P2005 With a engine light on but no adverse effect on engine performance. what do you think is the problem . Mercedes R350 Bluetec 2011. Great video.
It may no longer be stuck. If it is still stuck, then your computer will adjust the fuel to air mixture air ratios. It will eventually cause performance problems if it is still stuck. How many miles on the vehicle? Have you changed the rebreather port cover, the hose etc?
@@iRepairAutos how can I get the parts
@@anthonypenemodikwa4761 don't bother - the parts are cheap plastic from China. They end up doing more harm. Get a new unit from FCP Euro
In the process of buying a 2011 E350 and this problem has me spooked. Would running a can of injector cleaner through at regular intervals help prevent this problem?
My 2007 c280 has that issue where it says the manifold runner flap is stuck closed, if I keep driving it like this will it blow the engine?
great video im about to change my now but im having 1 issues when i turn the car on the fan runs like a turbo and it loud changed the face changed the sensor so is this wats causing my fan to run like this
Keith,
Got a quick question. When should the putter flaps be closed and open. I start my car and monitor flaps valve moment from the outside. Valve does not close or open in idle or at high idle RPM around 3000 to 3500 RPM range. My understanding is that in idle flaps should be close or open and close as needed roughly every few seconds.
I was told that my Mercedes manifold was cracked in two areas so I need to put a new manifold. is that possible? the garage did not want me to observe the repairs in the back. thank you
Hey thanks for the video I just saw this video and it was so helpful. i have one question though. I have a 2007 Mercedes E350 with engine codes p2188 and p2190 do you think there might be association with broken Flaps?
How many HP have i less when it is broken?
My 202 c280 v6 is not revving what could be the problem
I have no check engine light, idle fine, but pickup is not great. Dealer says flap is stuck. Why would I not have the CEL?
Do you think spraying WD-40 as lubrication or spraying Aerospace Protectant to keep the plastic from getting brittle without removal of the Manifold would help?
Hi K,
Will a failing manifold cause a faulty #1 cylinder misfire? been having a misfire on #1 on a 08 MB CLS550 and I've exhausted all my avenues within my mean of diagnosing. I saw 1 vid with an EGR valve issue but several of yours with changing plugs, coils...etc. any further advise before I hit the dealer,,, what I don't want. Thanks in advance K!
At the conclusion of this video you say if the set of flaps which is the innermost ones (interior) are broken you would not suggest repair. Are you then suggesting only replacement or is removal and repair a reasonable course of action? Thank you.
I suggest replacement - It's an 8 hour job for the first timer. You don't want to have to do it again. With that said, if you are living in a country where the unit is not easily available or highly expensive then repair is possible. It's just a pain in the neck (literally). The unit brand new is roughly between $500 to $700 USD
@@iRepairAutos Thank you for the reply. Your advice is appreciated.
my scanner is throwing the code 0521 saying that the charg movement flap has a malfunction. but, i had that replaced a few months ago. the engine light has been OFF. my car runs great.. what is the issue you think?
Hi, great video! I'm getting (2) P2004 codes (bank 1a stuck open)...but the main actuator is working and the 2 outers seem to be ok, not broken. The car is running ok. A little hesitation when accelerating, but not bad. Idles fine. Any clues to what is going on? Thanks
why not show taking intake apart show the other flaps inside remove them leave it hallow .. car works fine it can be done
Can i move my flaps and keep them in 100% open position? Mine is stuck in closed and my acceleration is way slower until like 3500 rpm
Would this cause the car to stall? Thanks in advance
I believe so yes
Thank you for your knowledge. My 2007 E350 just came out with the following code, whats your first impression?
P2006
Generic
Current
Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
Bank 1a
Inspect the flap rods on the intake manifold for breakage or being stuck by wiring harness or other wiring.
Can this cause vibration
hi bro I always watch you, you are good in explaining, I have learned from you but I need your help i have 2007 ml350 4matic and the problem is that when you start the engine it smoke to the worst when you driving a lots of black smoke places if you have any idea to it places let me know, for me i live in Columbus oh thanks i wait to hear from you thanks
Recently, one of my intake, manifold runners broke, and when I drive the car, it’s giving gas, but the RPMs are jumping high or sleeping as my mechanic said, and I did get the codes and he came back to the manifold runner and the camshaft but he’s telling me that it’s a transmission issue is that true?
Deal with the known issue of the manifold runner first. Usually the other symptoms go away when known problems are resolved.
How do u replace the hose on lower front of intake manifold on a w203 2005 c240 2.6l emging ...hose is brittle and craked and too short
thank you for a fantastic explanation.
I have a code P2071 - does this refer to the 2 valves at the bottom being stuck?
great video, very interesting pinciples at work.It's good to know what I'm replacing. My r350 has 140k on it and the actuator bracket is broken. Your video on the intake replacement was excellent and has given me the confidence to taken on the job. I noticed you used the RBT remanufactured intake with the update Aluminum bracket. My question Is, Does the Peirburg come with the updated bracket? and is it better than the RBT? Thanks a bunch, great vids,
+J Shadler I'm not sure what Peirburg has for hardware. Peirburg however is a brand new part were as RBT is remanufactured. Peirburg also comes with a lifetime warranty from what I've been told.
I think this is my issue I've got a rough idel sometimes it will rev up without giving it gas and rev higher with gas pressed to however taking off and normal driving is fine
This is gold. Thank you!
What happens if I do nothing and just keep driving? How long will I be able to drive? I know MPG will be bad.
hello, where does the other end of the map senor hose connect to? I disconnected it when I took the manifold off and can not find any where to connect it? Thank you
Extremely educational!!
Bonjour
je possède une Mercedes e320 essence v6 , j ai une question : es ce que a chaque fois qu' on accélère l actionneur en plastique bouge ? car j ai nettoyer l admission et contrôler les claper tout est ok , les injecteur neuf .mais la voiture a des rater et l actionneur ne bouge pas . il y a un seul actionneur . merci pour votre aide
The middle actuator broke at the connection point. It still idles fine. I do have check engine with the codes. Will this also give false O2 sensor readings?
Sounds like my issue now. Idles fine. I never would have know except shop just told me. I'm passing on fixing it now because of other work I'm getting done.
I wish my shop dealt with the repair kits that are available.
Stay away from those repair kits. They end up causing more damage internally. Best to get a new intake, especially since you have to remove the intake in both cases.
The vehicle , a 2006 ML350, has 140000 miles on it. in speaking to my mechanic today, he seemed to feel that the best course of action is to replace the intake exactly because of those other flaps that simply break off and gets sucked into the engine. so I'm back to being of the mind that it needs to be replaced even if it can be repaired for the short run and can cause serious engine damage
Even the 'updated' manifold is only partially improved, only a FEW upgraded pieces not all and yes I have seen someone here where their 'flap' broke and ruined his engine- basically its a gamble,if you want to replace just the linkage then that might last without guarantee that's flaps wont fail, however replacing entire manifold doesn't guarantee that flaps wont fail== plastic combined with high heat === problems
This damaged flapper/actuators caused me A check engine code p0300 it suggested a misfire and to change spark plugs but i did and yes the flapper was the issue for the misfire
Wonderful explanation! Where can I buy the plastic flaps replacement from?
I have not been able to source them.
Where can I buy the updated intake manifold
Excellent job in explaining 🎉
I have an intake where one of the plastic rods is broken, not the center piece. Can it be repaired? I've seen repair kits for the center piece but not the rods. Help! Thanks in advance.
Google this part: Intake Manifold Actuator (Fits: ML350). You should be able to replace it with that. Remember what I said in the video. You need to make sure the internal flaps are in the correct position. Good luck.
Keith just a question, I am pretty sure I have this problem. I have also read that it's just a performance problem. If i never get my rpm over 3,000 would it matter of the flap is stuck closed?
It might be a performance problem for some. It all depends on the position of the flaps at failure. If the flaps then move it will cause major issues either at idle or at high speed. You don't want to let this issue sit. It will eventually get worse and cause other problems.
@@iRepairAutos Thank you so much, I already have the rough idle after a stop at a light etc. I am watching your video how to remove the manifold and studying it and will tackle soon on a warmer day. The "oil drip pan" always clockwise to remove?
@@iRepairAutos Keith i finally got the air intake off, I'm noticing oil inside the intake and also in the throttle body. Also oil on the injector plug and i believe also inside the cam magnet plug...advice?
Any thoughts on TRQ intake manifold?
Is there any way to change the flap runner without taking the whole manifold out? My flap is in front of the engine
Robel were you able to fix it without taking it out? I just had this code pop up on my 2007 clk350
Yes you don't have to take the he thing off
Now they are selling a kit that can change the rods and the balloons for less than 70 usd
But you need to change the sensor as well
Great job, didn’t know the car engine runs on oxygen ;)… air is what engine use where I’m form and here nitrogen gets 78% to 21% oxygen.. 1% mixed gasses
The real question is how did those flaps get gunk? Oil / build up / gummy and sticky of oil. The next question, is where did the oil come from. This will leads back to a few video this guy had shown. It all came from the PCV tube --->> PCV cover & oil separator. I believe this is the source of oil / oil fumes that gets into the drum oil intake. This is unpreventable, even with changing out the PCV cover or the oil separator. The oil fume will still travel down to the MAF / air intake and cause all these oil / sticky gummy crap. What can be done is add a oil separator as a final defense on this line. He has another video that shows this type of installation on this line. It may not be 100% since some fumes will still get back into the MAF as the line is design to, but at least you minimize it.
2007 C280 4Matic
I've got a weird issue. I have the P2004 code that comes and goes. Checked the plastic pieces as best I could without disassembly and nothing is broken. Idle and speeding up back down to idle are perfectly fine except on hills at stops. Sometimes on hills driving up or down the RPMs go really high and it up shifts late giving a slightly rough shift. Like 2000-3500RPM it only does this on 2nd gear. I also noticed a lot of gunk build up around the plastic pieces of the manifold. Sprayed it with some MAF cleaner to get some loose. Any ideas?
sometimes the pneumatic parts on the air intake are stuck open and or closed and are not broken. Take a look at this video here: th-cam.com/video/bKiNsMoAm_M/w-d-xo.html
What if the flaps open on start
rough idle if flaps are not positioned right. (Usually at idle)
I just did mine but I noticed the flaps or arms move only when you rev high is that normal? I thought that it shouldmove at all times low idle and steady 2000 rpm am I wrong ? I want to make sure its not defective
if your engine seems to be functioning normally, and you are not getting any error code, it should be fine.
I was wondering if you can help me with this problem. I replaced the rear expansion seals when the engine get warmed up the seal get pressured out. Mercedes said that the engine ports are clogged up but when I removed the valve covers it looks very clean with no sludge. 2008 ML350
Inspect the rebreather hose. Is that clogged or crimped? Do you have too much oil in the engine? What grade oil? Did his start to happen after you installed the expansion seals or before?
I bought the car like this leaking oil.
I’m using Mobile one synthetic 5W 30. No I didn’t check the breather.
Thank you very much man .. very very smart . Amazing
Super knowledgeable! learnt a lot. thank you!
Thanks for the kind words. Hope the video helps...
Hey bro I’m haveing a problem with my Mercedes one of my flaps is broken I dt want to replace the intake can u help me out just need some advice on a few things..thanks in advance
Hello mate, did your car make a noise ? How you understand that?
I just took out my intake manifold because In have been consistently getting a P2006 code. Surprisingly, I did not see any linkage broken. The entire system is moving freely and the flaps inside are moving and closing without any resistance. What do you think could be the issue?
Try to move those flaps again slowey and quickly, do not damage them. They may be jamming up. Wipe them with a clean cloth. Do the have gunk? This could be part give issue that is building.
@@iRepairAutos l found the breakage near the bottom of the central actuating rod. Now should I replace the entire manifold or buy that actuating rod and lever made of aluminium and replace mine with this??
I have the a code 0524 - Inlet flap circuit, open circuit or short circuit to ground.
Do you have any idea what this may be?
Open circuit means that the electrical connection could be disconnected either through a faulty connection point. Or a damaged wire. Check the connections on the back of the air intake manifold.
Question sr what do the two small black relay valves at the bottom of the intake do ?
Hi there, answering 5 years later. Those are electro valves. They're driven by ECU and sensors, so when the ECU decides to open or close or something in between, those electro valves open and allow the vacuum coming from the intake manifold thru a rubber hose, to reach the vacuum (diaphragm) actuators and they pull or push those plastic rods and turn the flaps to the desired position.
Hello.
I have a problem with my c280. The problem is a P2015 Code. Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1). Do you have any idea what it means?
Yes, the sensor detects that the internal flap on bank 1, is moving but not through the full range of motion. Check your air intake rods for obstruction. I have a video on this here: th-cam.com/video/bKiNsMoAm_M/w-d-xo.html
iRepair Autos ok thanks....great videos!!
What happens if you don't fix this promptly?
Vehicle performance will get worse. Flaps on the inside may move and make the vehicle not idle and stall out at lights and then plastic pieces can get into the pistons and cause engine damage.
Hi. I originally had a p2006 code. I replaced the broken lever with an aluminum one. My car get an additional 6 miles/gal, increase power and no vibration during idle. however, I now get a P2004 and a P0410 code. All the flappers are Together and working, no vacuum leaks are found, no gas or air leaks, and all connectors are returned correctly. I reset the error code and in 24 hours it always return. Do you have any idea what the problem can be? Or where should I start to resolve.
The air intake manifold has internal flaps that open and close... These parts are plastic and get coated in carbon build up. Once that happens they get sticky and don't open and close as they should. That's what caused your broken lever. Now that that lever is fixed you still have the internal issue in the manifold... check out my video explaining this here: th-cam.com/video/HTXNUE0N75Q/w-d-xo.html ; I think you're going to need a new manifold... Or you could open and clean the one you have but that's asking for more trouble down the road...
so in Alphonse situation, would the Peirburg intake manifold assembly would be a good solution?