Well, I must say, I think this video was boring. Throughout the process, the power to the house was off, so that meant a lot of long hours to get things done and not much time to spend on making things interesting. The install wasn't all that impressive compared to most of the videos I do, so later on down the road I plan to make further videos showing the cool things that I'm going to be doing with this in a much more interesting and comprehensive format. Hope you guys don't hate this too much!
Not boring, & you did a pretty nice job (looks clean & better than most professional electricians). The only thing I would have done is install a bypass switch for the critical loads. This way if you ever needed to service (or replace the Sol-Ark) you can just flip the bypass so all of your critical loads have power via grid. I presume you are no longer living in Idaho? I saw that you helped Ambition Strikes with there Off-Grid install about a year ago. Hope your parents are still doing well!
I still have the option to add a bypass switch. To accomplish this, I would install the main breaker kit into the critical loads panel with an interlock mechanism with a breaker feeding from the main panel. Since I have a lot of room in the 2" flex it would be very easy to pop in later. No, COVID pushed me out of Idaho. I lost my job doing sheet metal and that's when CurrentConnected was started. We moved to Las Vegas for the business. My parents are still doing well, their system is due for some TLC though. The weather this winter has been pretty abusive on them.
@@HighTechLab No need for an interlock mech. Search for GE 100Amp 240V Emergency Power Transfer switch. You can by it at Home Depot for about $230. Although when I bought it was only about $125 (#Yellen-Inflation is transitory)
Not boring at all! I love the detail! I have a question about why you didn't install a bypass in case there is an issue with the Sol-Ark and you need to still power your sub panel. I've seen other installs where they do install a bypass inbetween the grid and the Sol-Ark. Thanks much for a great video!
Thanks for taking time to show how the subpanel wiring was spliced inside the channel. I don't see this type of wiring configurations very often, and the few experiences I have working with local electricians seem to discourage its use. After watching the video, it seems that use of channel and splicing extensions are safe to do and hopefully up to specification to pass code inspections.
I think they have a 'Smart Loads Panel' so you can do what you mentioned in the beginning and have those loads not run during an outage. Simplified installation, also if you add new loads you can select their priority.
Thank you for sharing. As others have stated, welcome to Las Vegas!! We are Henderson residents and in the initial stages of building a new home with a ground array (we have backyard space). We want to do a similar configuration to yours (Sol-Ark 15k). Very interested in learning how you finish your setup in follow-on videos.
Hey Dexter. I guess I’m not the only one switching to the Sol-Ark 15ks.. Interesting way to run the wire in the inverter. I’m just using the the standard gutter and EMT offsets . Looking good though!!
Clean setup, like the look. I wonder if a small gutter or extension to the bottom of the SolArk would have improved the working/bending space some. Good point on the 42-pole panel option giving a little excess flexibility.
Yeah, but I was specifically trying to avoid having a gutter below the panel. Because of the air vents, it would probably have to sit 3-4” off the wall, and I despise of that look.
Nice installation but a gutter about a foot below SolArk would probably not restrict air flow any more than conduits in air flow. I bet that was tough pulling wire through flex 90!
@@geneg7956 it wasn’t tough because normally this conductor size/quantity would be in a 1 1/2 conduit however we used 2” flex, so there was bigger bend radiuses and far more room
Very interesting video, not boring at all. I was curious how you'd redo the wiring that came out of the original box and was pleasantly surprised that you did what I thought you'd do in the new raceway. The sloppiness of the previous installer is totally unforgivable. That's why I installed the Solark and all the gear in my place myself. At least I know what I'm getting. Cheers!
Looking forward to seeing the outdoor battery shed install! We're up here in Ontario, Canada, so it's a bit too cold for us to put batteries outside, but interested to see what you do.
This is almost exactly what I want to try to do to my house. I think the only difference is that I was hoping to get by without a critical loads panel and just go directly from the meter to the Sol Ark to the Main.
I noticed you have two neutrals connected on this - is this required or are you using this as the main neutral for all services ? I have a generatort transfer switch panel (200amp) generac that is connected at the service main which has it's own neutral bus. The grid connection on the solark connects to the load side of the 200amp tx switch. I don't see any reason to have two neutral connections here as the sub-panel the solark feeds also gets its neutral from the generac transfer switch. Maybe it's an NEC thing, I have an older 2007 book. Any insight would be appreciated. I am installing the six batteries here shortly from you guys (SOK). I spent the extra money for a large 12x12x48 raceway which sits about 10" below the solark. It made the bends much easier to manage w/ the 3/0 main conductors and 2/0 neutral.
I love having those cable connections going out the back of the inverter instead of the bottom. Makes the install look very clean. Hopefully you can get Sol-Ark to adapt that new design option... I'm just afraid you totally voided your warranty doing that. :( Why did you pick SOK over EG4 or some other battery? I have EG4 but found out most inverters use CAM communication instead of rs-485 but now there's a "communication box" EG4 sells now that converts the data to CAM which most inverters use now. Please share the link to your outside battier cabinet. Are you going to run the Enphase to the Sol-Ark as AC-Coupled?
Welcome to Vegas! Have been watching your posts and discord for quite a while. I am working on a nearly identical setup, as I have time, and it's nice to see someone I respect for great work building a very similar install to my own. Very interested in what you are doing for that external battery rack; currently using a homebuilt "powerwall" battery support frame I welded up, but I would really prefer to mount it outside. I will be watching for your updates.
@@Madactionmedia Not as clean as the video but I did run some of mine directly back into the wall, so it exits directly into the fire department emergency cutoff, then loops back inside the house through the entrance to the circuit breaker panel. The inside is partially conduit and wiring trays. Condit was a real pain and I finally bought the gutters, wow does it make things easier.
The inverter can supply the full 200A with the grid connection on. This is from Sol-Ark themselves, thats the whole point of the 200A trabsfer rating. Great video in general but from the beginning the info was a bit misleading. Definitely was sent down a rabbit hole since I am considering this Inverter.
@@HighTechLab yes absolutely. Under a grid down situation you can only power up to 50A@240V. At that point you'd have to manage loads. I was just saying that I got the impression the inverter could only output the 12000W absolutely. This is not true.Not if you have the grid connection on
Looking good. Your new HVAC units need to be put 18” from the wall. Better airflow, easier maintenance and repairs. I have a 20 SEER PLATINUM American Standard heat pump system, two 16 SEER hp’s and one Fujitsu 33 seer hp for power shed. 6.25 Ton.
Good to know. I think the installers were very limited because of the size concrete pad that was there. They installed them in September and I can tell you I sure wasn't going to wait a couple extra days without A/C to get the concrete pads re-poured
@@HighTechLab going to blow AC through the conduit? Or put the batteries ina under ground basement? I put all my equipment in 8x10 insulated shed with a mini split.
Sorry maybe I was a little harsh but seriously you’ll have heating issue’s and perhaps voided the warranty doing that back entry without something sign by the manufacturer saying it would void it.
Well, I must say, I think this video was boring. Throughout the process, the power to the house was off, so that meant a lot of long hours to get things done and not much time to spend on making things interesting. The install wasn't all that impressive compared to most of the videos I do, so later on down the road I plan to make further videos showing the cool things that I'm going to be doing with this in a much more interesting and comprehensive format. Hope you guys don't hate this too much!
Not boring, & you did a pretty nice job (looks clean & better than most professional electricians). The only thing I would have done is install a bypass switch for the critical loads. This way if you ever needed to service (or replace the Sol-Ark) you can just flip the bypass so all of your critical loads have power via grid.
I presume you are no longer living in Idaho? I saw that you helped Ambition Strikes with there Off-Grid install about a year ago. Hope your parents are still doing well!
I still have the option to add a bypass switch. To accomplish this, I would install the main breaker kit into the critical loads panel with an interlock mechanism with a breaker feeding from the main panel. Since I have a lot of room in the 2" flex it would be very easy to pop in later.
No, COVID pushed me out of Idaho. I lost my job doing sheet metal and that's when CurrentConnected was started. We moved to Las Vegas for the business.
My parents are still doing well, their system is due for some TLC though. The weather this winter has been pretty abusive on them.
@@HighTechLab No need for an interlock mech. Search for GE 100Amp 240V Emergency Power Transfer switch. You can by it at Home Depot for about $230. Although when I bought it was only about $125 (#Yellen-Inflation is transitory)
Not boring at all! I love the detail! I have a question about why you didn't install a bypass in case there is an issue with the Sol-Ark and you need to still power your sub panel. I've seen other installs where they do install a bypass inbetween the grid and the Sol-Ark. Thanks much for a great video!
Hey I'm an electrician in MN and looking to get into installing pv systems. And im wondering if I could reach out to you and ask a few questions
Las Vegas and batteries outside 😮. Can’t wait to see how you manage this. Also welcome to Vegas! 🎉 you’ll love it here.
Well done on the electrical. looks great.
Thanks for taking time to show how the subpanel wiring was spliced inside the channel. I don't see this type of wiring configurations very often, and the few experiences I have working with local electricians seem to discourage its use. After watching the video, it seems that use of channel and splicing extensions are safe to do and hopefully up to specification to pass code inspections.
I think they have a 'Smart Loads Panel' so you can do what you mentioned in the beginning and have those loads not run during an outage. Simplified installation, also if you add new loads you can select their priority.
I was thinking the same, this would've been a good app for that.
Only thing I can add is the 60 amp solar feed could be setup for 2 way charging/feeding from the EV but you have it under control Nice setup.
Looks awesome good to see u back doing videos keep us informed keep it up brother
Thank you for sharing. As others have stated, welcome to Las Vegas!! We are Henderson residents and in the initial stages of building a new home with a ground array (we have backyard space). We want to do a similar configuration to yours (Sol-Ark 15k). Very interested in learning how you finish your setup in follow-on videos.
Hey Dexter.
I guess I’m not the only one switching to the Sol-Ark 15ks..
Interesting way to run the wire in the inverter.
I’m just using the the standard gutter and EMT offsets .
Looking good though!!
Clean setup, like the look. I wonder if a small gutter or extension to the bottom of the SolArk would have improved the working/bending space some. Good point on the 42-pole panel option giving a little excess flexibility.
Yeah, but I was specifically trying to avoid having a gutter below the panel. Because of the air vents, it would probably have to sit 3-4” off the wall, and I despise of that look.
Nice installation but a gutter about a foot below SolArk would probably not restrict air flow any more than conduits in air flow. I bet that was tough pulling wire through flex 90!
@@geneg7956 it wasn’t tough because normally this conductor size/quantity would be in a 1 1/2 conduit however we used 2” flex, so there was bigger bend radiuses and far more room
Oh heck yeah!
Clean install with sol ark
New panel looks great
Is this the friend of yours that was installing the 15K you did a video on?
@@chevrofreak yes!
Very interesting video, not boring at all. I was curious how you'd redo the wiring that came out of the original box and was pleasantly surprised that you did what I thought you'd do in the new raceway. The sloppiness of the previous installer is totally unforgivable. That's why I installed the Solark and all the gear in my place myself. At least I know what I'm getting.
Cheers!
Looking forward to seeing the outdoor battery shed install! We're up here in Ontario, Canada, so it's a bit too cold for us to put batteries outside, but interested to see what you do.
This is almost exactly what I want to try to do to my house. I think the only difference is that I was hoping to get by without a critical loads panel and just go directly from the meter to the Sol Ark to the Main.
You can’t go from meter directly to Sol ark with out Fused disco between the two.
I noticed you have two neutrals connected on this - is this required or are you using this as the main neutral for all services ? I have a generatort transfer switch panel (200amp) generac that is connected at the service main which has it's own neutral bus. The grid connection on the solark connects to the load side of the 200amp tx switch. I don't see any reason to have two neutral connections here as the sub-panel the solark feeds also gets its neutral from the generac transfer switch. Maybe it's an NEC thing, I have an older 2007 book. Any insight would be appreciated. I am installing the six batteries here shortly from you guys (SOK). I spent the extra money for a large 12x12x48 raceway which sits about 10" below the solark. It made the bends much easier to manage w/ the 3/0 main conductors and 2/0 neutral.
where is the best place to buy wireways?, Thanks for a great video
Nicely done, thanks for sharing! I also have an earlier 15K, I'd like to ask SA if they can send me the updated busbar...
does one of the neutral connected to solar from the grid? i'm connected to the main sub panel instead so i didn't need to run 2 neutral into solark?
Next question is if the warranty is voided would it be unvoided if you used the appropriate knock out entries
I love having those cable connections going out the back of the inverter instead of the bottom. Makes the install look very clean. Hopefully you can get Sol-Ark to adapt that new design option...
I'm just afraid you totally voided your warranty doing that. :(
Why did you pick SOK over EG4 or some other battery? I have EG4 but found out most inverters use CAM communication instead of rs-485 but now there's a "communication box" EG4 sells now that converts the data to CAM which most inverters use now.
Please share the link to your outside battier cabinet.
Are you going to run the Enphase to the Sol-Ark as AC-Coupled?
Welcome to Vegas! Have been watching your posts and discord for quite a while. I am working on a nearly identical setup, as I have time, and it's nice to see someone I respect for great work building a very similar install to my own. Very interested in what you are doing for that external battery rack; currently using a homebuilt "powerwall" battery support frame I welded up, but I would really prefer to mount it outside. I will be watching for your updates.
Did you go in the back of the inverter too?
@@Madactionmedia Not as clean as the video but I did run some of mine directly back into the wall, so it exits directly into the fire department emergency cutoff, then loops back inside the house through the entrance to the circuit breaker panel. The inside is partially conduit and wiring trays. Condit was a real pain and I finally bought the gutters, wow does it make things easier.
whats your take on welding cable for those connections?
Great job man!
Not code compliant to bury the 2” flex 90 in the wall. I’ve been called for that.
Do you still have your place in California?
Yes, my parents live there.
The inverter can supply the full 200A with the grid connection on. This is from Sol-Ark themselves, thats the whole point of the 200A trabsfer rating. Great video in general but from the beginning the info was a bit misleading. Definitely was sent down a rabbit hole since I am considering this Inverter.
But if the power goes out and you have 200a of loads, the inverter goes into overload.
@@HighTechLab yes absolutely. Under a grid down situation you can only power up to 50A@240V. At that point you'd have to manage loads. I was just saying that I got the impression the inverter could only output the 12000W absolutely. This is not true.Not if you have the grid connection on
@@HighTechLabwhat are you running at 200amp that’s not tripping huh?
nice install dexter
Looking good.
Your new HVAC units need to be put 18” from the wall. Better airflow, easier maintenance and repairs. I have a 20 SEER PLATINUM American Standard heat pump system, two 16 SEER hp’s and one Fujitsu 33 seer hp for power shed. 6.25 Ton.
Good to know. I think the installers were very limited because of the size concrete pad that was there. They installed them in September and I can tell you I sure wasn't going to wait a couple extra days without A/C to get the concrete pads re-poured
Snag Wil's Mega Insulated power trailer and use it for your batteries. 😁
Mountain man tech wizard.
They cut the strands!!! What a joke
And a neutral that's not connected?! Geez
Ok this workmanship hurts my soul
Sooo I confirmed with Sol-ark that going in the back of the inverter does in FACT VOID THE WARRANTY!
Come install one for my home in Georgia 😂
Batteries not in AC ? The BMS's are going to die early on you.
I have a trick up my sleeve.
@@HighTechLab going to blow AC through the conduit? Or put the batteries ina under ground basement? I put all my equipment in 8x10 insulated shed with a mini split.
I had my sol ark installed months ago, and would like to rack your brain about my install.
Warranty is now VOIDED
Yeah but I’m a Sol ark distributor so in a sense I am the warranty anyway
Besides the fact, I’d suggest putting it in the video description as a disclaimer as not to mislead other potential customers purchasing the product.
Dude your gonna over heat the system you totally voided the warranty coming in the back….good lord bro you definitely not a solar guy…
Looks awful lol so much extra work….clearly not getting inspected
What do you even mean???? It’s completely code compliant and getting inspected when the last of our material arrives and is installed
@@HighTechLab post the permit, and inspection please......
Sorry maybe I was a little harsh but seriously you’ll have heating issue’s and perhaps voided the warranty doing that back entry without something sign by the manufacturer saying it would void it.