Very smart approach. I had an accord and I replaced the water pump the similar way. Some guys removed too many things around before they removed the pump.
@@shoptimewithdrew I replaced the tensioner and the serpentine belt on this 2010 over the weekend. It took me around 30 minutes to complete. I thought it was easy as in this video but it was not. As I said, the Accord is much easier to replace these parts. To replace the serpentine belt and the tensioner, it needs two tools to complete the job. One is the reversible metric ratchet and a serpentine belt tool - the ratchet will be used above the tensioner and the serpentine will be used under the tensioner access from the wheel well. The two tools in this procedure due to the serpentine belt is so tight. There was no way I could replace with one tool. Two of them will be working together in order you can make the tensioner goes all the way to the end. I may not know how to explain it well on this procedure, but the serpentine belt tool will be turned and the reversible metric ratchet will be the one that locks the tensioner. For every turn of the SBT, the RMR will lock it up until the tensioner is tight all the way to the end. Then, it will be very easy to seat the serpentine belt in place. This is the only my procedure I think it is very easy for me to replace because this tensioner is so tight.
@@shoptimewithdrewPart of 100k miles maintenance, I replaced thermostat, water pump, hoses, tensioner and the serpentine belt. It took me all day to replace all of them. The big picture for me was to do the cleaning and remove and put back the covers. The damn thing was, it took me a while to look for the drain plug under the radiator.
Great video! (And fun tunes...) Wife's car is clunking, but I can't make it do it when I drive it. Coolant was low, and it's hot under the hood, but temp gauge shows OK. I suspect an air bubble. Pump is not "graveling". I will do the burp procedure as you mentioned at the end. Thank you!
Wish I'd seen your video before I tackled this job on my daughters 2017 RAV4. Her pump was leaking, bearing sounded fine. Only about 35K miles on the vehicle. Got the job done, but spent more time than needed after seeing your tips here. Part cost for me was $190 for the pump (Toyota Dealer) and a jug of coolant. The dealer had a TON of waterpumps which leads me to believe this is a fairly common failure on RAVs??
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Yes, water pumps are a very common issue on Toyotas. About a year or two back there were weeks I could not go a day without at least one water pump. I don't do them as much anymore. I'm not sure if they changed the pump slightly or the Toyota coolant.
Toyota water pump is very reliable, but due to 100k maintenance, the pump has to be replace. All the vehicle I worked on, once the serpentine belt replaced, you have to replace the tensioner, thermostat, water pump and the two hoses. DIY will save you ton of money!
@@tuantran7494 Well, in my daughters case, with only 60K kms. on the car, I'd say the pump isn't very reliable. The fact the Toyota dealer had so many pumps in stock. Makes me wonder.....
@@macker0077 That water pump could be a defective one. My wife Rav4 water pump still worked fine when I removed it. I did on the 100k tune up. I changed many parts on the line. It costed me around 450 for all the parts (Tensioner, serpentine belt, water pump, thermostat, water hoses, and the radiator water). I had another Accord, the water pump was about to fail when I replaced it. That Accord water pump was at 150k. Any water pump fails under 100k consider to be a defective one.
Thanks very much for the video! This process is so much better. No removal of the alternator, no removal of the wiring bracket, no coolant draining, no disconnect coolant reservoir hoses, and no jacking up the car to remove the wheel and remove the shield to access the bottom three bolts. It would be more helpful if info is available on the torque specs, and the millimeter size for the water pump bolts and the tensioner bolt.
@@shoptimewithdrew Thanks for the quick reply! It looks like: Coolant Reservoir: 10mm socket for two bolt Alternator: 14mm for the top bolt, 12mm for the bottom bolt Water Pump: 12mm for all seven bolts Tensioner: 12mm to remove the tensioner bolt Correct? Another question, did you remove the accessories belt by simply removing the tensioner? I usually see removing the belt by loosening the tension. Then remove the tensioner.
Great job! Is there no need to remove some of the top motor mounts and support the oil pan with a jack as I have seen on some other vids? Well done, and thanks!
It was a 2017, and the belt is not that hard to do from the top like I did. If you move the coolant bottle to the side, it gives you even more room if needed.
If it is the brake pedal, I would probably spray all the joints with white grease to start. Could be a brake actuator making noise. Can't think of any common issues.
My water pump doesn’t sound like that but it leaks antifreeze so the heater still works and it doesn’t overheat so I’m not thinking that is a thermostat maybe just a radiator at the lake or a house somewhere please advise
@@shoptimewithdrew true. Gonna be doing this here soon. Water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt and tensioner. Any tips on bleeding the system afterwards?
I'm at 197 k + the bearings in the tensioner first,nest week alternator all but locked up.... Schored the pulley.now this horrendous noise..... Water pump bearing's...... well I'm learning my way around under the hood of a RAV4¡!!!!!!!!
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Incredible! Just putting on the belt is a two day adventure in pain.
Very smart approach. I had an accord and I replaced the water pump the similar way. Some guys removed too many things around before they removed the pump.
Yes, some follow the book so close that they waste some time.
@@shoptimewithdrew I replaced the tensioner and the serpentine belt on this 2010 over the weekend. It took me around 30 minutes to complete.
I thought it was easy as in this video but it was not. As I said, the Accord is much easier to replace these parts.
To replace the serpentine belt and the tensioner, it needs two tools to complete the job. One is the reversible metric ratchet and a serpentine belt tool - the ratchet will be used above the tensioner and the serpentine will be used under the tensioner access from the wheel well.
The two tools in this procedure due to the serpentine belt is so tight. There was no way I could replace with one tool. Two of them will be working together in order you can make the tensioner goes all the way to the end. I may not know how to explain it well on this procedure, but the serpentine belt tool will be turned and the reversible metric ratchet will be the one that locks the tensioner. For every turn of the SBT, the RMR will lock it up until the tensioner is tight all the way to the end. Then, it will be very easy to seat the serpentine belt in place. This is the only my procedure I think it is very easy for me to replace because this tensioner is so tight.
@@shoptimewithdrew For your safety, make sure everyone watch out for their fingers while working on the tensioners and belts!!!!
@@shoptimewithdrewPart of 100k miles maintenance, I replaced thermostat, water pump, hoses, tensioner and the serpentine belt. It took me all day to replace all of them. The big picture for me was to do the cleaning and remove and put back the covers. The damn thing was, it took me a while to look for the drain plug under the radiator.
Great video! (And fun tunes...) Wife's car is clunking, but I can't make it do it when I drive it. Coolant was low, and it's hot under the hood, but temp gauge shows OK. I suspect an air bubble. Pump is not "graveling". I will do the burp procedure as you mentioned at the end. Thank you!
Thank you. A clunking noise is kinda abnormal from a water pump. I would need more info.
Wish I'd seen your video before I tackled this job on my daughters 2017 RAV4. Her pump was leaking, bearing sounded fine. Only about 35K miles on the vehicle. Got the job done, but spent more time than needed after seeing your tips here. Part cost for me was $190 for the pump (Toyota Dealer) and a jug of coolant. The dealer had a TON of waterpumps which leads me to believe this is a fairly common failure on RAVs??
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Yes, water pumps are a very common issue on Toyotas. About a year or two back there were weeks I could not go a day without at least one water pump. I don't do them as much anymore. I'm not sure if they changed the pump slightly or the Toyota coolant.
Toyota water pump is very reliable, but due to 100k maintenance, the pump has to be replace. All the vehicle I worked on, once the serpentine belt replaced, you have to replace the tensioner, thermostat, water pump and the two hoses. DIY will save you ton of money!
@@tuantran7494 Well, in my daughters case, with only 60K kms. on the car, I'd say the pump isn't very reliable. The fact the Toyota dealer had so many pumps in stock. Makes me wonder.....
@@macker0077 That water pump could be a defective one. My wife Rav4 water pump still worked fine when I removed it. I did on the 100k tune up. I changed many parts on the line. It costed me around 450 for all the parts (Tensioner, serpentine belt, water pump, thermostat, water hoses, and the radiator water). I had another Accord, the water pump was about to fail when I replaced it. That Accord water pump was at 150k. Any water pump fails under 100k consider to be a defective one.
Great video,I subbed.
Thanks very much for the video! This process is so much better. No removal of the alternator, no removal of the wiring bracket, no coolant draining, no disconnect coolant reservoir hoses, and no jacking up the car to remove the wheel and remove the shield to access the bottom three bolts.
It would be more helpful if info is available on the torque specs, and the millimeter size for the water pump bolts and the tensioner bolt.
I'm glad it was helpful. The socket sizes are 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm.
@@shoptimewithdrew Thanks for the quick reply! It looks like:
Coolant Reservoir: 10mm socket for two bolt
Alternator: 14mm for the top bolt, 12mm for the bottom bolt
Water Pump: 12mm for all seven bolts
Tensioner: 12mm to remove the tensioner bolt
Correct?
Another question, did you remove the accessories belt by simply removing the tensioner? I usually see removing the belt by loosening the tension. Then remove the tensioner.
Use the tensioner to release pressure from the belt, then remove the belt, then tensioner.
I did all the removal stuff shown in another RAV4 waterpump how to video. If I had to do it again, I'd use @shoptimewithdrew tips to save some time. 👍
Thank you for the great comment.
Thanks for Sharing.......I will give it a shot.
Thats where I put my Cool Whip! I was looking for that.
Ha ha were you trying to warm it up for your pie.
Great job! Is there no need to remove some of the top motor mounts and support the oil pan with a jack as I have seen on some other vids? Well done, and thanks!
There is no need to jack up the engine on the 4cyl. If it is a v6, then yes, you will have to jack it up and remove motor mounts.
How do you take out the bolts on the water pump pulley without it spinning?
Thanks for the video. What's the year of this car? How could it be done by simply installing the belt from under the hood like that?
It was a 2017, and the belt is not that hard to do from the top like I did. If you move the coolant bottle to the side, it gives you even more room if needed.
@@shoptimewithdrew Mine is 2012. The belt diagram looks quite complicated to me. Do you think 2012 and 2017 share the same belt diagram?
Is it a 4cyl or v6
it's 4cyl. 2012 RAV4 base front wheel drive.
The belt is different, and it is different routing, but you can do that one from the top also.
was wondering if you had any comments on rav 4 hybrid pedal making a farting type of noise when breaking and releasing
If it is the brake pedal, I would probably spray all the joints with white grease to start. Could be a brake actuator making noise. Can't think of any common issues.
@@shoptimewithdrew awesome i'll check it out thanks 🙏🏽
Did you skip the belt tensioner? Did you remove it or just remove the belt?
I removed the belt and then removed the tensioner.
My water pump doesn’t sound like that but it leaks antifreeze so the heater still works and it doesn’t overheat so I’m not thinking that is a thermostat maybe just a radiator at the lake or a house somewhere please advise
Probably need a water pump if it is leaking.
Thanks for sharing this video
Question did you disconnect battery? Or just be careful not to cause a spark 😅
I try not to disconnect the battery just to prevent losing customers' presets. Just have to be careful.
Spark in the brain or in your heart? :)
Is it feasible to do any of this with the wheel off and the fender liner removed?
Yes, you can do it from the bottom, but it is easier from the top.
@@shoptimewithdrew true. Gonna be doing this here soon. Water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt and tensioner. Any tips on bleeding the system afterwards?
@@shoptimewithdrew I have a spill free funnel kit. Wondering if that would be better or letting it burp out of the reservoir
The spill free funnel would work, and it will fit right into the reservoir without any fittings.
@@shoptimewithdrew nice thanks for the hasty response friend
Ahh, the classic Rav4 water pump crackle.
Ya sounds like a grinder
@@shoptimewithdrew How many Miles on the Rav 4 before you had to change out the water pump?
I have had them with 20k miles and up, but I would say most are after 100k
I'm at 197 k + the bearings in the tensioner first,nest week alternator all but locked up.... Schored the pulley.now this horrendous noise..... Water pump bearing's...... well I'm learning my way around under the hood of a RAV4¡!!!!!!!!
Hey Drew, can you tell me the torque specs on the water pump bolts and the tensioner? Thanks for the video.
15 ft lbs for both
Stealership is charging me $800, 2 much?
Parts and labor sounds about right.
@@shoptimewithdrew
How much 4 just da part?
Probably around $200 or $300.
Google it, lazy
Great video. Thanks
Thank you!