Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you! SK Tools: amzn.to/3p5dFsn Proto Tools: amzn.to/30Am25I DeWalt: amzn.to/3q7WxSc Lexivon: amzn.to/32goMFK Performance Tools: amzn.to/3e4ZKw2 Craftsman: amzn.to/3p7rqaa Wera: amzn.to/3q7Vx0o Kobalt: amzn.to/3Fjqnt2 Snap On: Purchased from Snap On ICON: Purchased at Harbor Freight
I know this video is two years old now so I don’t know if anyone will see this but. It would be cool to see this video redone with digital torque wrenches.
For those who don’t know. ALWAYS store your torque wrench on the lowest torque setting. It decompresses the spring so that it remains in spec for much longer.
You really tested multiple torque wrench's thousands of times just for us. Thank you for what you do. I come here every time I'm thinking about buying a new tool. I will definitely recommend your channel to friends.
As a auto technician that was required to torque every wheel that came in the shop, my Snap On torque wrench after over 42 years of service, was only .01 lbs off when I retired. (They checked calibration every month for the last 15 years)
I agree Bobby, my Snap-on TQ250 no letter on end is old and still accurate too 1% , I check every now and then on Snap-on truck , Snap-on for the win 🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧
I retired as a mechanic. The difference between 50 and 52 ft lb is really insignificant in my opinion. Things like how clean the threads are, if anti-seize or Loctite is used, will have a greater impact. So one really is shopping for convenience of use, (arc swing, handle length, head size). Working with high torque items like crankshaft bolts would have me pick the longer handle over all other features.. For smaller bolts an inch lb wrench is typically used, (water pumps, valve covers etc). A test of these would be helpful. Accuracy here would be much more important. It is so much easier to strip out a 1/4" hole than a 1/2 " Great review.
@@opieshomeshop Did you not read OP’s entire post or did it really trigger you that someone other than yourself was a mechanic? He said he was a mechanic, not a clean room scientist. The variance of the torque readings can be much, much greater when actual field conditions are taken into account. Therefore, when buying a tool, he prioritizes the factors that are actually significant to the work being performed. Sounds pretty intelligent to me. If he were to assemble the occasional F1 engine in between brake jobs, he best not be reaching for Ole Trusty used every day on rusted lugs nuts. No, selecting the right tool for the application is definitely sound advice.
@@opieshomeshop the difference is insignificant if you torque all the bolts to the same value, so repeatibly torquing to 52 is better then some bolts getting 49 and some getting 51, but I would argue that even that is close enough
@@opieshomeshop You can argue all you want, I am a certified airplane mechanic, and jet engine certified, and I have tools with much better tolerances, but your headbolts in your LS engine does not care about 2 ft lb as long as they all are the same torque.
@@someoneelse7629 @Opies Home Shop Kids... stop fighting or you're both grounded. Nobody is questioning either of you on your knowledge, skill, experience, dick size, or 'back-in-my-day-things-were-tough" composite score. Now, say your sorry and go play nice or the next time I have to break you up it'll be discipline, understand? (sighs... -_-)
@@opieshomeshop When you're using Lb-ft as the unit of measurement, you're using a system that is operating entirely on the concept of 'close enough', as it's all trying to get in a ballpark of a set bolt tension range, and changes based on the condition of the threads, of the mating surfaces, material choices, lube or lack of, and material variation itself. All the acceptable variance has been long accounted for, and there is no mechanical device that can't have variance, especially vehicles.
@@ProjectFarm thanks!! not as amazing as this test tho, I am beyond ecstatic that you actually included Craftsman in this test, the whole reason I requested this one was because I had just bought two brand new craftsman torque wrenches from a sears store that was closing!
But that the filming was likely done during NNN... Coincidence? I think not. ...got a good one brewing for xmas? Eh? Whatcha working on? Electric go-kart? Pulse-jet? Cold fission? 😁
I was a calibration technician [Instrumentman] for the US Navy and calibrated thousands of torque wrenches. When checking for accuracy, we never used the bottom or top 10% of the tools range. Calibration certification was for the median 80% and tools should be chosen appropriately for the torque you are seeking. Another observation I made in that job was that snap-action torque wrenches often needed an adjustment to bring within +/-4% tolerance of that 80% median. While deflecting beam torque wrenches, that many people consider the 'cheap junk' wrenches were nearly always accurately calibrated. While there is no adjustment if they are out, I think I may have failed and scrapped one in my time in service. Seeing how you are checking these torque wrenches at 50 ft/lbs, which is at the bottom of it's stated 50-250 ft/lbs, I suggest checking them in that median 80% range and comparing scores again. PS: later in the video you covered the other ranges you tested...What are the accuracy comparisons if you throw out the 50 & 250 ft/lb measurement results?
Totally agree with what you're saying, but to a normal consumer, if it's inaccurate in the upper and lower parts of its range, then why are those areas included in the advertised range? If it's advertised as having a range of 50-250 ft/lbs +/- 4%, it should be +/- 4% across the whole range. If not, it should be advertised as whatever range it is accurate for, otherwise it's a bit misleading. What you're basically saying is that if you need to torque something to 50 ft/lbs, you can't use a 50-250 ft/lbs wrench because it won't be accurate, which to me means the tool is labelled incorrectly.
@@Berkeloid0 I can't deny that logic. If I had not had the training I did from the Navy, I'd never have known of this issue either. Nor know to choose a torque wrench suitable for the range of the fastener I'm needing to torque.
@@72SeaHag I can't remember where I initially learned it but I've followed basically what you're saying for over 20 years. They are usually most accurate in the middle to upper end of their range in my experience.
Yeah, as an auto mechanic I learned a hard lesson about click style vs deflection style torque wrenches a while back. I had a clicker that had been lying to me for who knows how long. It was off by like 15ft-lbs! After that I bought a deflection type torque wrench and never looked back. From time to time I calibrate it using a vice, precisely measured amounts of water ( for exact weight ) and a pen to correct the label that the needle points at.
I worked in a place where torquing was sacred and as Clayton noted the usable range of the wrench was limited. The Cal Lab would put a sticker on each wrench stating its usable range. We were also required to return the wrench to the storage setting which was 10% of its range at the end of the day or when returning to the toolroom. A 50-250lb/ft wrench would be set to 70 for storage. This was to put a slight tension on the spring. We were required to test each wrench on a *calibrated* torque tester before and after use. If a wrench failed calibration all the previous jobs it was used on were suspect and subject to having the torque checked. I think the deviation on your initial tests coming right out of the box would have been tighter if you had exercised each of those wrenches for say 50 cycles at various settings.
I'm always amazed, not only by the time and effort dispensed on these videos, but also the amount of money spent on these tests. Thank you so much for all the trouble you have to provide acurate and unbiased test to us for free. This is really one of the absolute best channels on youtube
I like how the 1000 round test really shows that the expensive wrenches actually do deliver extra value. Snap-On and Wera may be way pricier than the rest, but they also last far longer.
@@mg8718for wheels? Sure, but for small components or engines? 10% inconsistency can lead to multiple issues. Long term especially. But yeah I wouldn’t care at all about my wheels being torqued 10% off, as long as it’s not cross threaded.
I don't think you realize what the word "underappreciated" means... This video has 1.35 million views, and he has 2.3 million subscribers BECAUSE he does these types of tests and dedication... He's clearly appreciated.
That was a good selection of wrenches that most of us never see. Good info. I calibrate and repair A LOT of wrenches every year (Air Force cal lab) and my best advice is to treat the wrench properly, whatever brand you have. They should only be used for final tightening, not as a breaker bar. Set to lowest setting after use, and I keep mine in the house so they don't get too cold or rusty. Rust is death to the internal pawl surfaces. We have to let them soak at 72 degrees for 8 hours, at the lowest setting before they are tested. If the handle is set below the lowest setting or the wrench is dropped, our customers are instructed to return them to the lab and we recalibrate them. My personal wrenches are Craftsman, mostly selected because of cost and availability versus the amount of use. Thanks for the test, good info.
I always see people putting them a few clicks below the lowest setting for storage and always wondered if it's a good idea,now I know (it's not) Thanks.
Yeah lowest value after use is very important. and do not use first and last 5% of values at wrench. Those min max values are not accurate at click type of torque wrench.
When I was a mechanic repairing Mack trucks it was sad to see so many "mechanics" who didn't know these basic rules. This was something that my father taught me as a kid but it was also something you have to know to get your certs. I also used Craftsman for most things. It wasn't until I had to do all the DOT certifications that I had to use a Snap-on. That was because I needed to torque certain bolts to 600ftlbs and I had to have the wrench calibrated. That's a service the Snap-on dealer offered and he picked it up and dropped it off. My friend that did the engine repairs/rebuilds only used Snap-on but at home, he used a Craftsman. It depends on your needs and budget.
Before buying any tools these days I always look to see if Project Farm has done a comparison. Thank you for the time and effort you put in. By the way, my next purchases will be a die grinde and a cordless Jigsaw ;)
Thanks Todd, Project Farm dude! You help so many of us discern between quality and junk on tools, which seems harder to navigate on reviews these days. Always consistent and scientifically sensible. I personally appreciate it.
FYI - There are requirements in some industries (including aerospace) that the torque wrench must be cycled at least 6 times at maximum torque before use. Essentially, some of the variance you were seeing in your initial 6 tests could be due to internal resistance within the tool after sitting static in shipping. The following is an excerpt from TO 32B14-3-1-101, para 6.3 that we use: " Prior to the use of any torque device that has a breakaway feature (includes torque screwdrivers which may have multiple break points as the handle is rotated 360 degrees), the torque device to be used must be cycled through the breakaway torque as recommended in the manufacturer’s brochure. If the manufacturer’s brochure is not available, set the torque device at the maximum setting and cycle through the breakaway torque at least six times. This can be accomplished by (typical example) securing the square tang of the wrench in a smooth jawed vise. This breakaway exercise can be performed at the beginning of a work shift or any time subsequent, however, it is not required more than once each shift (normally eight hours) on the specific torque wrench or wrenches to be used. The purpose of the breakaway procedure permits special internal lubricant to recoat internal working parts, eliminating internal resistance to give the most accurate reading possible." We actually have different drive size sockets welded to a metal bench in order to complete this calibration every time we check one out from our tool crib. EDIT for comments - Please keep in mind that these results should still be representative of the tool's quality (in some ratio of the results published here). This information does not negate the results found (like some silver bullet as if this were an argument), it merely makes it more impressive that these manufacturer's torque wrenches can still be fairly precise, even when not internally lubricated. I would bet that the data curve would still reflect the results found in this video, even after performing this "warm-up procedure" (as Jake called it), just perhaps to a lesser degree of deviation.
@@jake9705 right but from what I’ve seen of project farm he reads the information so I’d assume it doesn’t say it I could be wrong but what a awesome channel this is
Having worked in aerospace manufacturing I can assure you that it has always bothered me that some accept the idea of just picking up a torque tool and assuming it is good. We had requirements for tools used in manufacturing where the tools were set and only used at one setting with certification required every 90 days. On tools used for service the tools were only to be certified in 80% of the range with the bottom and top 10% excluded. Some tools were required to be tested after use at the time Quality Assurance was signing off the operations, no mater what their calibration status. If you are serious about torque, what ever tool you are using you need to have it tested periodically and certified. Also remember to zero the adjustment when you are done! If highly accurate torque is required that anti-seize on the threads is required to insure that mechanical friction variations are minimized. remember the point of torquing is to apply compression to the item the fastener is being assembled with, not to twist the fastener. Anti-seize is for proper assembly and to protect the threads during torquing, not to aid disassembly as some people think.
im glad you went through the difference just 10 ft/lbs makes. Many people know that is a massive difference in clamp load, but there are people that have no idea. explaining that it is 1500lb difference on a bolt really helps.
It kind of makes me want to never guess again. It’s too bad there isn’t a torque wrench the size of a standard ratchet for those difficult to access bolts under the hood or in the wheel well.
Funny how brand names using words like "Superior, Performance, or Excell", tend to underperform, but in this case it improved a little with use. LOL Fantastic testing as always! Thank you
There's a company that has the name "superior" in front of oxygen on their sign, so I couldn't help myself. I told them I was joking, and that I suppose they think they are breathing better stuff than anyone else.😜
My son is looking for a torque wrench so immediately I think of my favorite U Tuber and all around honest guy! I’m sharing this video with him so he can make a wise decision. THANK YOU again for all your hard work!!!!!!!
"Inspected by: DUNG" was a pleasant surprise lol! Good job! The thoroughness of your testing never ceases to amaze. Although not a sufficient sample size to be representative of each product I have purchased many of the products you have tested with similar results.
I as a child watched as a weed grown up around junk tools and know the differences.... I won't be needing to purchasing many more tools in my trade but when Dung is around the weeds will be growing. Soon they will be in my shop asking for me to fix their car because they did it with Dung tools. (I don't wanna say you did it wrong.... most torque wrench will do it right.... but a tow truck is pretty cheap in comparison).
Would love to see digital torque wrenches and adaptors as well as if dropping a torque wrench or adapter actually makes it less accurate. Some digital adaptors and wrenches can also do angle measurements for torque to yield fasteners, that would be interesting to see how accurate thoes are as well. Great video!
Definitely could've done a few more test like you mentioned with the drop test and digital and adapters. Also with the low budget wrenches and would've liked to see if storing at zero load vs storing at lowest setting has on accuracy.
That’s a great idea - would’ve been great to see digital vs mechanical as an extra comparison. As well as drop testing etc another could be if/how very low or high temps affects the calibration. Thanks as always @ProjectFarm 👍🏼
Two brands I'd want to see, although ridiculously expensive are from milwaukee and CAT. CAT is for insanely high torque specs you'd see on their engines and the milwaukee was supposed to be super accurate and have a digital readout.
I would have been interested how Stahlwille would have performed. It has the best way of adjustment (not having to turn the handle) and has a swappable head
Milwaukee is crap as soon as you've used it once on anything higher than 150. The Cat is a pro tool (not prosumer like the Milwaukee and DeWalt) and they have all sizes so it's for any torque the model you buy is for. If we're going to include Pro tools then Hilti will win every test ever made so what's the point, it also costs about twice as much as the Milwaukee and DeWalt.
@@achristian7015 this is a TH-cam channel, not a scientific study with a full staff to abuse a torque wrench for 5 years. He did a *simple* test that was acceptable in both effort and outcome, he stressed the hardware *somewhat* and got different results from each tool, thus, a fair gauge of how they hold up. If this minor amount of wear affects their accuracy it's a fair bet they'd fail completely after 5 years in a shop.
@@glenwaldrop8166 So really, it is quite worthless like many of the tests. For that reason, I hardly watch the vast majoity of them. I worked in a government standards lab for over 20 years.
Wish you would consider doing a similar test with 1/4” drive torque drivers and wrenches for us DIY bike mechanics. Most of the fasteners are 6-14NM and easily stripped. Thanks for all your valuable time!
Another great test! Summary: Snap-on for the professional mechanic, including anyone who rebuilds racing or high powered, precision engines; Icon for the DIYer, with similarly performing DIY brands being perfectly adequate depending on your needs, current price and availability. Many people use impact wrenches to remove nuts and bolts, particularly the lug nuts on trucks and SUVs with high torque requirements- when replacing these items, which usually need to be tightened in a certain sequence and to specific high torque values, be sure to use one of these higher rated torque wrenches, of your choice, for the final tightening to factory specs. Under-tightened lug nuts can result in wheels falling off while you're driving; under-tightened cylinder head bolts can result in blown head gaskets and warped heads, depending to a certain extent on what the head is made of and whether or not it is a high performance engine. Thanks to Todd for making this excellent video.
Just last night I literally searched all of your videos for best Torque Wrench and couldn't find it. Seemed odd you haven't done a review on these already. Thank you for the research that you do!
Project Farm. Can you do a review of Pri - G Fuel Treatment? I've had tremendous success with it over the years restoring bad gasoline and making new gas way better almost instantly. 50 ish dollars to treat 512 gallons. It almost seems too good to be true.
As a Professional Calibrator Technician for over 45 years, you did a pretty good job. There are some areas you can improve this comparison. First, you load cell needs to be better anchored. The excessive flex on that table will cause inconsistency in your readings. Second, You need to build a jig that keeps the handle exactly level 90° to the load cell. Any human inserted angle will again induce error. There's a big difference between Calibration and Use of a Torque Wrench. Professionals should have their Torque Wrench Calibrated by a Certified Lab once a year or if the wrench is dropped. Always store your Torque Wrench at Zero or the Lowest Indicated Value. Otherwise, you will induce a memory on the torque spring and it will no longer produce the correct Torque. IMHO, My all time favorite was Stuart Richmond, they may been bought by another company now.
You make some excellent points, but I think the way the testing was done mimics how the wrenches would actually be used and thus shows how they perform when used. Maybe a follow up video where the results using your feedback are compared to these would show the difference between how a tool performs when used vs how it is tested in a calibration setup.
@Charles Larkin Unless calibration is relatively cheap compared to the cost of the tool then I would either not do it or just buy a second tool to compare against.
I do our shop wrench calibrations. VERY VALID points, error can easily be introduced. Example is when Snap On first came out with their digital wrench if you were NOT in the CENTER of the GRIP area you could easily miss target torque. I personally was able to get over 4% error out of mine sent it back to them under warranty and was told it was in calibration. The new ones seam to work good better than 1%.
I looked up Sturtevant Richmond calibration tools, they claim +\- 1% on many models, they have neat industrial options like radios inside I assume to transmit torque figures and calibration on equipment to a database. A mere 900$ USD for their DTC-15, but sounds about right for industrial\engineering applications. Great video though, I didn't know they could deviat that much, I've done lots of cylinder heads over the years!
@@ProjectFarm Digital wrenches should be very consistent performance all the time, so you may need to change the tests. Only extreme temperature variation or overstraining the tool are likely to significantly alter readings, since there are no moving mechanical parts to cause discrepancies. Digital wrenches are almost invariably a strain gauge kind of setup so there's not much to go wrong.
This kind of testing and information is avaiable only here and is of immense value to me as a home mechanic working on expensive motorcycles. Thank you so much!
Being an auto mechanic for over 20yrs, I'm glad to see the Snap-On torque wrenches I paid so much money for came on top. I also really liked to see the long term performance after all the cycling. Since professional mechanics use their tools far more often that the average home mechanic. I see the Icon as a really good value after all that testing. It's 25% of the cost of the Snap-On but it performed near the top overall. Plus you can usually find a 20% off coupon from the Harbor Freight email deals.
and if after 5 years you need to buy another, you can have 4 or 5 new ones in the same time frame for the same price as that snap on, that is probably proof snap on is just over priced as shit. especially these days. Maybe back in the day, but the cost to value ratio on them now is basically nonexistent with so many other even mechanic grade options for a fraction of the cost.
In my automotive experience turque wrenches operating at their minimum torque value are most prone to being inaccurate. In you need to torque fasteners to 50 ft-lb you are probably better off with a 3/8" drive torque wrench with lower torque range. Nevertheless the results for your tests to 50 ft-lb are pretty good.
I've heard that that's especially important with motorcycles and other things that drop down into the 20s-10s or single digit newton meters, that with a cheapo torque wrench it's easy to strip things out while attempting to put down the correct torque figure.
@@lolatmyage That's especially true with the Pittsburgh torque wrenches. I have a Pittsburgh "in/lb" torque wrench that I bought for working on a small Honda scooter. Fortunately, I never got a chance to use it for that particular application. I have since found out that it's so far out of calibration that it's going to destroy pretty much anything it's used on.... I mean, we're talking calibration being off by ft/lbs....on an in/lb torque wrench.... Basically, the lower the torque range, the more important accuracy becomes. When torqueing down lug nuts, 1-2ft/lb variance isn't an issue. When torqueing say, bearing retainer plates in a Ford DPS6 transmission, 1-2ft/lbs of variance is disastrous....
you want to use a torque wrench ideally within its 40-65% range. say your torquing a fastener to 80 ft lbs; a torque wrench spanning from 40-110 would be ideal.
@@lolatmyage I can confirm, I stripped a sump bolt using a cheap wrench with too wide of a range. I've never stripped a bolt with the pricier wrenches with smaller ranges after.
Would love to see more torque wrench tests including: Digital style, as well as dial indicator styles wrenches. The Dial Indicator wrenches tend to be more accurate, at least they’re usually advertised with tighter accuracy, typically 3% clockwise (or less). I’d also like to see different size wrenches from the popular brands, so like the 100 Ft Lb max range, as well as Inch/Pound wrenches. Wondering if they’re any more accurate as they get smaller. The typical torque range for most things I work on, which is mostly cars and firearms don’t exceed 100 Ft-Lbs, and are often listed in the Inch-Lbs range.
@@someusername121 Snug is way too relative to the person tightening it. I've seen so many burned up electrical connections because that person's version of snug was insufficient. Also electrical lugs in the US are almost always rated in inch pounds even though the values can be very high. A typical 200 amp main breaker is 250 inch pounds. That's more than snug. Anyways So I appreciate it when torque wrenches have the inch pound scale on them
I always checke your videos before buying a new tool! I was a bit bummed to see gearwrench got left out on this one. But its hard to complain when you test each items over 1,000 times 😂 keep up the great content man!
I've had two Tekton torque wrenches for a few years now. Average basic use on some cars and a couple of Harley Davidsons. They've held up nicely. Calibration was recently checked and was still respectable. The 1/4" inch pound cost me about $45 and the 1/2" foot pound model cost me $75. Both come with nice, protective cases, calibration certs, instructions. I've been happy with my purchases and would recommend them. I'm only tightening critical fasteners, not reassembling engines, etc.
I'm glad you commented, I bought one for my brother-in-law a few years ago. He's been doing more of his own repairs and I know my Craftsman is a heap compared to my dad's old Craftsman and they seemed to have pretty solid reviews.
@@mattbauckman9907 4 on 3/8 air, 3 on millsquakee 3/8 electric, but it’s hard to count. Auto tires deserve a torque stick, ag and industrial wheels, heads and exhaust deserve a good wrench
Been subscribed for around 3 years maybe more and it still blows my mind the amount if effort you put into every video! I know we all really appreciate it!
Dũng (or maybe Dung if the calibrator was a woman) is a very beautiful Vietnamese name that usually is translated to something like "bravery" or "courage". Unfortunately, these days in America, people change it to Dzung or Yung (which is how it is actually pronounced, depending on region) because of how English speakers try to pronounce it.
I'd definitely like to see CDI tested against a Snap-On. They're an OEM for Snap-On but a lot cheaper and I'm curious about the difference in accuracy. I'd imagine they're pretty close.
Agreed. They are very competitively priced. I would at least expect similar performance to Proto being that it’s a brand that associates itself with industrial tooling(whatever that may mean in the context of tools).
Same here. I have that “vintage” Craftsman, that’s been recalibrated once since new, and a newer CDI for my beadlock bolts, which I figured was a critical application 👍🏼
@@mhs0407 like Dil mentioned, they are OEM for Snap-On. Or at least under the "Snap-On" umbrella. They don't have the "tool truck" warranty or the overhead.
Fantastic work on this video. As someone who works in a laboratory, I appreciate the detail that goes into your videos. I'm going to get the ICON or DeWalt after watching this and ditch my $25 Pittsburgh starter wrench. A couple of inches in length makes a big difference in the effort needed to get higher torque values.
Really impressive work, thank you. Glad the test didn’t break the SnapOn reputation. Your 1000 cycle test was something I didn’t expect you would do…but again: you are beating all expectations. Merry Christmas and looking forward to your next video.
I'll die on the hill of SnapOn being overpriced on *almost* tool they offer. If, however you work in a field where you need the repeatability within a tight range then the SnapOn is a good call. But for your average professional homeowner the Icon will be just wonderful. And I think an auto mechanic would be well served with the SK or the Proto. But SnapOn power or air tools? No thanks look elsewhere for essentially anything. You can find so much better impacts and drills both air and battery for 1/3-1/2 the price
Great video; always appreciate your attention to detail. And your lawnmowers are breathing sighs of relief. ;) While working for a major aerospace company, I got rotated through its calibration lab, and so appreciate the thoroughness of your testing. Micrometer style torque wrenches (like these tested) operate on steel balls swimming in cup grease or similar lubricant. Accuracy is therefore primarily dependent on the balls being true spheres, and to a smaller extent on the quality of the lubricant. These factors point to the need for recalibration after heavy use; a tiny flat spot can lead to uneven torquing of your workpiece. This is also why it is important to store the tool at its lowest torque setting, along with the spring losing is initial tensile qualities. The steel balls and the flat rings they run on are also subject to almost imperceptible imperfections and variations that become more apparent with use. The tolerance range is there for a reason; as the testing illustrated, never assume that the measurements are spot on.
I am not sure the actual schematic/function of the spring in this application, but springs lose tension with cycles not compression time. I saw a gun mag test one time as the debate was centered around leaving a mag loaded will damage the spring....it did not..... is the spring used in the same manner inside of the wrench....I do not know. I just wanted to throw out compressed springs VS non compressed springs over time is negligible to the spring....its cycles that wear down on tension.
@Shawn Cockrell , the stress of the cycles certainly points to the need for regular recalibration, particularly in professional applications, and would be more critical than compression status. However, it doesn't seem wise to discount compression time, and the standard recommendation is to always store a torque wrench at the lowest point on the range. Something else to consider is the pressure the spring places on the steel balls and the plates they ride on. Why take a chance on some tiny bit of grit getting more chance than necessary to create imperfections?
Please do more! I wanna know how in accurate they get after forgetting to take the torque off of them for some time and how much they’re off after being dropped. This was an awesome video and it looked like a ton of work. Thank you so much! We really do appreciate the time and money you put into these!
Several years ago I was doing some torque work that required some pretty exact torque. I was using my Craftsman TW which I had purchased in the 80s. I wanted to get it calibrated so I went to a local machine shop, famously known for building high performance engines. I asked if they would please test my 30 YO TW. They looked at me as if I had lobsters crawling out of my ears! They had no way of testing TWs! I was shocked. My 22 years in the U.S.A.F. mostly as an aircraft mech, we tested and calibrated TWs at a very strict intervals and ALWAYS after one was dropped or suspected of being dropped. I guess that I expect too much.
I have only met one mechanic that insisted that all his torque wrenches were calibrated every quarter, funny thing is he was apprenticed to one of the older coach companies in my area, and their stock was antique !
military tends to have a huge budget and everything in one place. machine shop has no space for a calibrating machine but chances are they farm it out to a specialized tool shop.
I’ve never met a tech that cares about torque values enough to get a wrench calibrated. Most buy a $30 wrench from harbor freight and use it until it breaks, me included. I’ve built hundreds of engines without issue. If you’re within a few pounds it’s fine.
Very glad that ICON and SK performed well in this test because I use these brands every day and my life depends on it. Proto performed well too and many of my co-workers use these. Thank you for this test.
This was a neat experiment. I'm a calibrator, I can testify that the Snap On is the best overall. If you think that it is too expensive you also have to consider the longevity of the tool and how easy it is for a calibrator to bring it back to specs. I've seen Snap On wrenches dating back to 1996 and still performing well. The Snap On is without a doubt the best one in terms of staying within tolerance and ease of adjustment.
@@2001kbass generally I recommend you to get specialized tools because they tend to last longer. I haven't really had too much good history with these do it all type tools. They are useful but don't really hold up to par for precision work.
Interesting I know a few people who work in the tool production industry and the general consensus among them is if you do a bad job snap on will hire you and in my experience I've gotten tools from them that show it , some didn't last a week on a rig so as a user of the tools I would go with most other brands imo . I don't dislike snap on but they are genuinely over priced from what I've seen . There are plenty of usa made craftsman from the 80's still working accurately , so I think tools that have not held up for at least 50 years are not worth mentioning considering the premium price point of the tool brand being mentioned.
I'm a mechanic and would also testify in your court that snap on is very poor value for money! I have had craftsman dating back to the 1950's and I can always replace broken lost or stolen tools of same quality. Snapon won't do that for 5 times the price!
I will say a torque wrench is one if my favorite tools! I have always wanted to consider upgrading to a digital version and would love to see how they compare to the equivalent mechanical based wrench. At this rate with all the items you’ve tested, you’ll be able to open a Project Farm museum exhibit XD! Well done again!
I agree, I am a retired auto/marine tech and have 2 Snap-On digital wrenches in 3/8" and 1/2". over $1000 for both. I had them recertified twice over the past 12 years but I would like to see if they were worth the $$$$
I’d love to see a digital torque wrench test. I know even brands like craftsman now have digital variants, but how would they compare to the ~$700 snap on one? I can’t imagine that would be a cheap video though…
I bought the Snap Off 15-300ftlb flex head plus angle. I broke bolts in a Harley case with a cheap HF once, never again….I have experience with Proto and CDI too. The Snap On is so freakin nice. I want the (or a) smaller one for tight spaces. But now don’t want to pay. Indeed a digital shootout would be great. But maybe only 5,000 clicks for that video?
@@bvrgrn1038 I bought a harbor freight one for an emergency and never used it again. Went and got the professional grade click type from snap on for about $200, which I later traded in for $200 off my digital snap on. I agree, nothing is quite as nice, and I recently bought a 3/8 one to help me get some of the lower end stuff like cam caps on the Ford’s I work on (Ford tech).
I bought a 3/8 digital snap on torque wrench with a student discount. Still came out to like $300, but it’s so nice. I love having the sound, sight, and feel response when hitting your target torque.
I use the dewalt ones myself but it would be nice having a digital one for torque angle bolts/ studs. The dial meter that goes in-between a breaker bar and socket is kinda a pain in some spots.
I bought Harbor freight $10 torque wrench like 2 years ago. I'm using it for all of my car repair stuff. BUT sometimes I never hear click and I almost slipped 3 times.... Since then I just use it for lug nuts... 80ftlb.
I'm impressed by the Icon, that'll probably be what I end up buying. I was surprised to see that you didn't test the cheaper Pittsburg HF torque wrenches. A ton of projects are getting torqued down with Pittsburg every day ... I have a suspicion that the $24 Pittsburg doesn't stand up to the tests.
I almost snapped head bolts with Pittsburgh torque wrench, I need it wasn’t working properly as it felt very tight and hadn’t “clicked” yet, so we ended up borrowing my buddys snap on and sure enough the bolt was already past spec, Pittsburgh just wasn’t working properly! I have had success with it before, and hadn’t used it in a while before this but definitely wouldn’t trust it for any serious repairs anymore.
I have tested the cheap Pittsburgh ones, including one that was several years old on our snap-on tester at work and all were within 4-5% of what they should be, and one of them was spot-on. They're great, especially for the price.
@@iansmith9201 I'm actually relieved to hear this. I did a brake job on my car a while back with a HF wrench, and I had this happen on one of the caliper mounting bolts. I swore I could feel one bolt getting way tighter than the rest, and I just stopped tightening it.
Great video as always. I do think you should redo this one, though, with the torque meter bolted to steel. I noticed in most of the tests the wood table top flexed under load. A more rigid mount would increase the tests accuracy and precision.
Yes good comment, I was thinking the same. There is very obvious flex in the plywood bench that the torque tester is fastened to, I believe the flex could effect the percentage range and definitely the consistency. With the exception of the cheapest Performance Tools wrench to be honest I would say none of these wrenches performed badly to the point of damaging a fastener. Even torquing down a cylinder head any of these would be better than just hand tightening. My bet is a lot of people are purchasing the Icon Harbour Freight and this test has it performing as a good tool. Even with the bench flex this is still and excellent test, I was surprised just how close performing they all were.
From the looks of the setup, that would only mean the wrenches that over torque would do even worse, and wrenches under torquing would be closer to accurate.
That and I'm pretty sure you need to cycle torque wrenches a couple hundred times before use to break them in. That's what I hear though not 100 percent sure
I have a wera torque wrench for over 9 years now and regularly clean and service it and then check the accuracy. I'm still amazed it's working as accurately as any in the field even though I've dropped it around it's great. I have a new one sitting in the box in the garage the past 2 years and haven't needed to change just yet. As always a great informative video 👍
Had to pause at 47 seconds to say this. Holyy cow the amount of information is exactly what i want in product reviews. Very well done man I'll continue to watch as i eat my popcorn chicken and SUBSCRIBED
I've always wondered how temperature affects torque wrenches. There's a big difference between a nice warm shop and a repair out in the field in the middle of winter.
I would imagine there is a small difference, but is it enough difference to make a difference? Particularly when they already have an expected up to 4% variability.
As a mechanic I always love to see snap on compared to other brands. I know the price point is out of the question for many people. When you depend on your tools day in and day out. The longevity of them and consistency is key.
Snap-On makes some good stuff but a lot of their tools are just overpriced. I've got some Stanley screwdrivers that are every bit as strong and I got an entire set for the price of a single Snap-On, same with pry bars. Honestly the Snap-On tools may be technically stronger but if the cheaper quality tool is still 4x stronger than the materials you're working with (cutting tools, snapping bolts, etc) what's the point? Their ratchets, however, I'd probably pony up that $$ without a second though. They last. Not a fan of their air ratchets, at least not the 90s models.
I became a full time mechanic back in 1991 and my dealer sold me a 3/8 and 1/2 in torque wrenches with the new swivel heads. 2 years ago a Snap-on dealer tested them and we were both amazed, they were still spot on. Best $400 for both I ever spent on tools.
Once you use a snap-on ratchet, all other ratchets feel like toys in the hand, they're not cheap but when you use them 10 to 12 hours a day 6 days a week they're definitely worth it.
All I have to say is I love this guy. He has to be the best you tuber in the world. Only way I buy a tool is buy checking project farm. Thank you for being honest and not taking checks from companies.
I absolutely love how you throw it an old, very used tool like that. It really goes to show how build quality has diminished over the years. I have an early 1980s sears and roebuck craftsman lawn mower. The first start of the season is very hard, after that she starts on the third pull without even priming it. It's truly bulletproof. Thanks duralube
In 2001 leaving Reno heading to Elko to pick up a pipeline welder,, brought along the Panasonic camcorder, just bought a rebuilt engine for my Chevy truck 6cl 250 traveling 60 miles an hour (Bang) number two piston went through the right side of a block.. smoke everywhere,, took a fast left across the medium, cut back on to the west bound lane back to Reno. my daughter's was with me. she video taped the whole thing when number three piston went out through the left side of a block.. I had a smoke screen that is blocking my lane behind me . My daughter says Dad we got to stop! and I said no we don't!! well keep going, she says but the smoke is blocking the freeway I said it'll clear up because there's no oil pressure. About an eighth of a mile it was completely clear behind us, neither one of us had a cell phone and you're so far out in the desert there is no telephone booth. forget it if you think you're going to get help. I drove that Chevy truck 28 MI to the nearest casino gas station... Lifted the hood in the engine was glowing red..on the right side of a block. I could put my hand right through the hole, left side was the bottom crank shaft bearing laying on the engin mount. I religiously have always used Dura lube. Every now and then I show my friends the video tape and guess what they put in their engines Dural lube. that stuff is good enough to pour on your eggs in the morning.😂
I don't think build quality has decreased. You can buy quality tools but people just want cheap. The consumer mindset has changed from the days of built to last.
@@cchavezjr7 I beg to differ. Years ago even the "cheap" tools were built simply and reliably. Like ratchets. Now you're hard pressed to find a ratchet with steel mechanisms for under $50
@@guitarhippie Not true. The good old days sound good but there were tons of cheap stuff you could order from a catalog or in a 5 and dime store. We romanticize the stuff that we remember lasting but there was a ton of crap out there.
Great test! I recognize that older Craftsman you brought in to test. I bought one of those as a gift for my son about 10 years ago, and it was about 3 months before he put it to use here in my home shop. The ratcheting mechanism failed completely on the second head bolt he was torquing on a Honda Motorcycle engine. When I say failed, I mean the drive could be spun in any direction and with only finger strength it would spin without any resistance against the pawl. Naturally, I took it back, and was disgusted to find the tool manager told me that the Craftsman line of Torque wrenches at that time had a 30 day warranty! That was the last Craftsman tool I purchased. I have no idea what they warranty them for now, but buyer beware... I have two 50 year old Proto Torque wrenches that were my Dads, and a Cornwell at home and one ICON in my road trip box. One of the tool truck guys has a Proto tester like the one you showed and he loves to test my old Proto Torque wrenches. They are as accurate as his comparable new ones when he demos them, and closer when I do it, LOL.
I know that they strive to have the icon series try and match snap-on. I know they don't always beat them but it's nice to have tools that are actually reasonably priced.
He uses Harbor Freight tools in these comparisons quite frequently. Usually he uses their Pittsburgh brand, but their torque wrenches are notoriously inaccurate. In some instances, their inaccuracy exceeds their rated scale....
Been watching for awhile. I listen to a lot of videos at 1.25 or 1.5 speed. Can't do that with yours! Love the speed and clarity of speech. Finally need a torque wrench and knew where to look. Thanks!
man this is amazing the attention to detail the COMPREHENSIVE TESTING wow just wow 👏 I'm so Glad you make this useful content you are helping so many people buy the right tool for them with no advertising bs !! thank you
Very thorough and unbiased testing, as usual. (I caught the Synthetic oil, then the filter tests & have been a subscriber ever since). Depending upon one's needs, this is most valuable information. Nobody wants to throw money away, as a proper mechanic requires so many these days. Great job! Thank-you!
Lots of concern about flexing of the table. Having been through the snapon torque training class I can say that will not change the results in any meaningful way. You can literally put 50 extensions of various sizes together and get an accurate torque and thus clamping force with a torque wrench. Calibrating vs testing the repeatability of a wrench are very different things. Engines and parts move and flex when torqued especially at high torque specs. So the flexing table really doesn't concern me in the least.
Yes, the point of measurement is between the tool and the measurement instrument. As long as it, (eventually), stays fixed when the load is applied there is no problem.
Adding extensions has always skewed torque results. When snap on can make a tool worth the investment, then they can try to teach a torque wrench class. Until then, my 20+ years of real world experience will remain the industry standard. You always want the head of the torque wrench as close to the fastener as possible to get the most accurate results. No overpriced underperforming brand name can ever change physics.
@@winkletown8828 we were testing this on a strain guage that measures clamping force it agreed with the snapon torque wrench calibration station. So your real world opinion is invalid unless you have a means to prove it. Thus why they use a strain or clamping force guage in the class. They don't make it and the manufacturer of the guage has no reason to make snapon look good.
@@RyanRansom When people say the extensions have no impact on final torque, I just cannot believe it. Im torsioning the extensions, doesn't that use up force? Id love this explained to me.
@@sompka1 If you use 10 extensions that begin to twist at 100ft/lbs than yes, the extension will twist every so slightly and possibly throw off your torque a few %, but nearly negligible. It's really only when you're not 90 degrees to what you're torqueing.
My shoulder is aching just thinking about 10,000+ cycles with the torque wrenches! Thanks for your efforts on this and all your tool testing videos. Extremely helpful and valuable when making tool purchases. Also very interesting just to see how the brands compare. My father’s old MAC torque wrench from the 1970s recently stripped a gear and unable to find a repair kit. Will use the information from your video to make a decision for the replacement. As always, great content, testing and editing!
I work in the metrology field. Thank you for the information very useful. The only flaw in your test is the error of +/- percentage has to be reference to the actual calibration and not the nominal for accuracy and than you will need to factor in the error of the gauge.
Great test! Thoughts from my Navy Nuclear Power days; 1) We exclusively used Snap-On dial type torque wrenches with the light bulb indicator disabled. The required torque had to be within 1/4 - 7/8 of the torque wrench range (I believe this is an industry standard). Torque wrenches must be cycled a number of times at the desired torque prior to use to ensure accuracy. So 50 ft-lbs was below the 1/4 value on the 0-250 wrenches. The last few readings in your series I think would be most accurate and I would throw out the first 1,2.
I’ve always heard you should leave a torque wrench on the lowest setting when in storage. You should do a long term test to see if leaving it on the highest setting negatively affects accuracy.
No it won't affect anything. When you rotate the grip to adjust the torque, you turn a nut on a thread that either compresses or releases a big spring inside of the wrench. Springs don't lose their strength if they are stored for long periods of time while compressed.
I wanted to see Tekton and Hyper tough for very budget friendly ppl. Ofc they should be tested for calibration only after like 200 uses. I'd also suggest changing the torque like using them at 150ft pressure then 50ft pressure then 25ft (or their lowest capacity), just to check how well they stay calibrated after being used at their maximum torque capacity and then going back to really low capacities
Almost as if the snap on was just warming up on this test. If you rely on a torque wrench every single day, such as in the tire business, this would definitely be a prime purchase. Nicely done.
That is kind of my take away, Snap-On is horrifyingly expensive but if that tool is part of your job that keeps the lights on and pays for the house than its worth buying the best made tool for any portion of a task.
Can we all just appreciate that this guy cycled a bunch of tools a few thousand times just to test the accuracy and longevity for us (the consumer) without asking for nothing !!! Been watching you a few years now PF and love your content... Thanks for doing what you do for us who cannot afford the £1000 tools ! Love from the UK !
Another great review! I have a snap on 1/2 digital torque wrench. Bought it in 2015. I use it occasionally throughout the year but there’s a month in the year I’m using it all day everyday. In 2019 I sent it in to check calibration and it was still within spec!
Glad to hear that. I got a digital snap-on in 2011. One of only a few snap-on tools I have. But I needed torque-turn capability, so that's why I splurged.
@@tangydiesel1886 yep it’s definitely worth every penny! I never really needed the torque turn until I started working on tractors. I was mainly orchard stuff so I’d be doing pattern weight changes in the shaker head when customers switch from almonds to walnuts.. and then I got hired four years ago at a case dealership and now I’m using the torque turn a bunch too. On top of still working orchard equipment. Torque wrench is putting in work throughout the year that’s for sure!
Also went with the Snap-On digital. Bought mine used off the tool truck. Use it daily. Asked the Snap-on rep about getting it calibrated and was told the screen will pop up a message to re-calibrate it. It had just been rebuilt and calibrated when I purchased it in 2018, I asked about re calibration about 4 months ago. (I do ask yearly).
Tried ten videos on torque wrenches, all just showing how to use it and the different form factors. Your video provides the info needed to actually choose one.
Another quality comparison! If you happen to do a second torque wrench test I wouldn't mind seeing the inexpensive Pittsburgh torque wrenches from HF tested. I'm guessing that's the wrench a lot of weekend warriors own and seeing how it compares to these more expensive wrenches could be a real eye opener
Great test. Being an auto tech for over 30 years, I knew the Snap on was going to be at or near the top. However, the best part of owning the Snap on is the fact that twice a year you can have your tool rep send it in to get recalibrated. That's worth it, knowing you have a repeatable, reliable reading every time.
Wow I have that exact same vintage craftsman torque wrench in the garage. I have no idea how old it is but I've been using it for at least a decade now. Couple minutes into the video I started wondering how far off my "vintage" craftsman was and then you pulled one out. Fantastic thank you.
The most impressive thing to me is how well the 11yr old Craftsman did. I always wonder how often or how much these things need calibration especially having one for probably ~20 years and never taking it anywhere to calibrate it. Seems like you really don't need to have them re-calibrated. I've "tested" mine against newer torque wrenches and it doesn't seem much different so I think is still fine for my uses. Would also like to see how well transducer-based [electronic "digital"] torque wrenches do against the mechanical ones. With the price range here I thought the $250+ were gonna be electronic but surprisingly not. Also how you went about cycling these *that* many times, is quite something!
Ya, that and the swing arc is just going the extra mile. Always appreciate the thoughtful rigorousness that goes into these test. If we were to apply this methodology to most aspects of society, we'd have our problems licked in no time.
The BEST cable tracer I've used is the FLUKE Intellitone Pro 200. It's a game changer. With network UP, finding one cable in a room with multiple racks and lots of 4 inch bundles dumping in becomes child's play. I HATED chasing cables before i found this thing.
I would love to see this test again with other brands. Husky, Pittsburg, Tekton, AC Delco Digital (they are supposed to be around (+/- 2%), Matco, Mac, & Milwaukee. I have head good things about the new ICON line really glad to see Harbor Freight stepping up they game. really impressed with the Dewalt. I rebuild Classic cars as a hobby and I torque a lot of bolts, so seeing the 1000 click torcher test was impressive. that takes dedication. thanks for all your work. Dewalt and Proto are both made by Stanley Black &Decker tools. so, it doesn't surprise me that they performed about the same. Proto is SBD industrial brand. I have a vintage set of Proto 3/8 Sockets from the 80's they are my go-to sockets when doing any work on old rusty bolts because they fit better than any other sockets i own, and i have less change of rounding off fasteners that sometimes can't be replaced. it is surprising how may specialty fasteners are on some old cars.
Always appreciate the amount of details and effort you put into making these comparisons. I could not help notice how much flex the measuring device has on the wood surface. I wonder if the tool was bolted down to a more solid/rigid surface if there would have been a different result? Again, thanks for sharing!
Agreed! I love the channel, but I think this test needs to be redone! : ( @project farm Please consider this, as well as including the CDI wrench referenced in one of the comments above!
No, this wouldn't affect the amount of torque being applied. The only impact is in how far you have to pull the wrench as the mounting surface is moving with the applied force.
@@RobertHancock1 Metrology much? Physics much? Measuring a torque vector in this manner relies on a perpendicular force. If you're pulling on an instrument in an ever increasing angle, the amount of force being applied, versus amount being measured will have an ever increasing delta. When you're critiquing a precision instrument at this level, these kinds of details matter.
@@mjktrash I actually disagree. The force needed to produce the desired torque would change if the angle of pull changes, but that's not what is being measured here. The wrench should be measuring torque at the fastener which is also what the instrument is measuring. From the reference frame of the wrench, the instrument is stationary even if it's moving with respect to the table.
I had one of these in my cart yesterday - so glad I waited!!! Fantastic content as always. The accuracy and deviation after many uses is most important for me, these are high-use in my aviation shop. I got the Wera
I am an aircraft technician and glad to see snap on performed well, I also have two CDI torque wrenches so its basically the same production. Very informative!
It would be interesting to see if they deteriorate after being left set to a high torque for a year or two. I've always been told to slacken them after use, I wonder how much difference it makes.
Definitely slacken them after use. As to how they deteriorate, depends on the wrench and how it is treated and used. The most extreme example I recall was a couple of Norbar wrenches from the 1940's that got brought in for testing. The one from 1943 was still reading pretty good after all this time, but the one from 1944 was a little out, mostly because it was in need of lubrication. Good torque wrenches that are well maintained can last a really long time.
its because the spring inside is compressed when set to a torque value and becomes weakened if left in the compressed position. so now when you read torque you're doing so with a weakened spring and there is less pressure pushing against the click mechanism and it clicks easier giving you lower torque. Edit: oh you said if, i read why.
@@anthony10370 haha, yes, I know the theory :) On the other hand my car has ten year old springs with many miles and they're not noticeably sagging so who knows how much difference it actually makes in reality! Maybe ten percent in ten years? Who knows.
Would like to see that too. My snap on was advertised as that you don't have to remove tension. So there must be a system inside that only tensions when torque is applied.
Don't waste your money on the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh torque wrenches. They're laughably inaccurate. I have all 3 of them.... 2 have over-shot by so much that they've damaged bolts and parts.... The in/lb Pittsburgh torque wrench actually cost me a day's pay after it overshot by nearly 10ft/lbs....
I have them and tested aginist all my others... they were the best of the clickers, way beter then the snappoffs.. it's amazing just how many people do not know how to use one corectly. dont always beleave people that dismiss items due to price. I sure wasted a lot of $$ on snappot junk&mac junk. a lot of money.
I have been thinking about switching my 'junk kobalt' and getting a snap on for my automotive career. Good to know its actually just as good in the tested respects. Think ill keep it.
@Ben C If you think someone's life is in shambles because they can get the job done with cheap tools instead of wasting money on a brand name tool they don't need, you are probably not very skilled (no offence). Getting the job done with top of the line equipment is easy, but people with real skills can get the job done with just about anything. If someone is starting out in their career, starting off with crap tools will teach them a lot more about their trade than starting out with the best. If you start with the best you never learn why they are so good, and you will be stuck when you eventually have to make do with someone else's tools one day. Stick with the cheapest you can buy until you know *why* you need something more expensive.
Kobalt can frequently be a hit or miss. Some of the hand tools are ok, but I avoid the brand for anything requiring precision. Does Lowe's still sell Kobalt? It seems like their store brand is now exclusively Craftsman.
@Ben C you also realize that name brand tools are rebrands for cornwell, mac and matco. Snap on is proprietary but proprietary is not a synonym for better. It means its a new design that is not a copy. The reason you pay 300 percent markup for name brand is that the REBRANDED tool is under warranty if you are using it enough (and as a mechanic, like myself) you are, you are liable to break it at any time. No tool is perfect, and not one is safe from a person who doesnt maintain it properly. You also pay the markup because a salesman drives a truck around town as a convenient way for you to obtain them, lest you drive somewhere to get them. Snap on doesnt sell at walmart or lowes. They offer service more than tools. When you figure that out, me and the rest of the people in this comment tread will be waiting, Keyboard Warrior.
I bought two craftsman torque wrenches to use professionally about 20 years ago. Both were crap that not only felt cheesey but fell apart and didn't last 6 months. Then Sears wouldn't warranty them. I forget why. I switched to Snapon and they were a joy to use. They just felt like high quality.
Coming back to this video to say thank you, Todd! I went with the ICON torque wrench, I was bleeding my mom's brake fluid, it was my first time using one of these wrenches, and the ICON's accuracy is pretty incredible when I was getting her wheels tightened down to spec, even when re tourqeing the lug nuts just in case everything on the rotors is balanced!
I am curious as to how the Pittsburgh $10-20 torque wrenches would fare lol. I bought one a while back used a few times. Another note is the Craftsman in the video is on sale @ lowes for 49.99 currently, which for most non mechanics would be the best bet imo
Depends on what the application is. All the specs on my car have 10(units) range. Considering that, my understanding is that Pittsburgh is more than good enough. I've seen it tested before (and even abuse) and the Pittsburgh still did its job within reasonable tolerances. I wouldn't use it on an F1 car but Pittsburgh is good enough for me.
I would have liked to see a Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench in this test. I own one and I love how easy it is to change torque setting on the little dial. I've been told by more experienced mechanics that it is very accurate, but I haven't tested it.
When your building an engine and your torquing head bolts what’s most important is the correct sequence. You always repeat the sequence at least once or twice so they will all probably be slightly higher then spec but evenly matched. You also should break them lose in reverse order. This is how I was taught and watched my father do building race engines over 40 years.
Love the videos. been watching for years. Normally you're very good with your testing methodology, but I'm thinking it would be interesting to redo this test with the tester bolted to something that doesn't flex the way we can see the bench flexing. Since force is a vector, as the bench is flexing, some of that force is going to be transferred in directions that isn't around the rotational axis. Considering the deviations are so small, I suspect the amount of bench flex we are seeing could be responsible for a lot of that.
As I notice the wood flexing and the tests are pretty much unreasonable if the bench isn't really worth testing on. (Why?) And two different meters.... how reliable is the meter itself. I would like to know how thinks this is a pure interest testing based towards sponsorship? His testing is based on one tool to measure and bolted down to a wood? Why? I don't remember EVER needing to torque anything to wood! So why be it placed in such?
Excellent video, as always. Thanks for sharing. I wish the cheaper ~$20 Harbor freight were also included in this test. Tests close to maximum and minimum range would also reflect on quality of the wrench.
@@sherlockbonez ,Any torque wrench will work for the type of work DIY's are doing on their car. Cars ain't NASA level technology and the condition of the threads/bolt/nut will make way more difference than using a cheap or expensive torque wrench. There a YT-video called "Applied Bolting - Torque isn't Tension" that should change peoples focus when they try to torque something with some precision. It will also tell why modern torque spec often is degrees instead of a measured torque number.
My 1/2" HF was fine, but the 3/8s wouldn't click, I ruined two really nice magnetic oil drain plugs that way. Threw that thing in the trash, never again. Those plugs cost more than the wrenches, could have ruined the pan too
@@thirteen12 Well, actually happened to me too with one of them (don't remember if it was 3/8" or 1/2") which was otherwise fairly accurate. I am usually very careful so realised early on that it is taking more torque than it should to click. Also I usually tighten in steps... like 15ft-lbs first then 22 for the bolt that requires 22ft-lbs. They have otherwise performed very well for me so far. HF replaced the bad one free no questions. Having said that, consider yourself lucky that it was the bolt not pan which would be more painful. I have 6 of the $10 HF ones that I use quite often, and one Kobolt for higher torque up to 250 lbs-ft
Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you!
SK Tools: amzn.to/3p5dFsn
Proto Tools: amzn.to/30Am25I
DeWalt: amzn.to/3q7WxSc
Lexivon: amzn.to/32goMFK
Performance Tools: amzn.to/3e4ZKw2
Craftsman: amzn.to/3p7rqaa
Wera: amzn.to/3q7Vx0o
Kobalt: amzn.to/3Fjqnt2
Snap On: Purchased from Snap On
ICON: Purchased at Harbor Freight
I know this video is two years old now so I don’t know if anyone will see this but. It would be cool to see this video redone with digital torque wrenches.
redo this test but bolt the tester to the concrete floor
i wanna see matco vs snapon
For those who don’t know. ALWAYS store your torque wrench on the lowest torque setting. It decompresses the spring so that it remains in spec for much longer.
Thanks for the feedback.
nope
Oh don’t worry I got the HF $20 pos one. It comes compressed and uncalibrated for you
@@Mike-we3rb LOL 😂
This is a myth.
You really tested multiple torque wrench's thousands of times just for us. Thank you for what you do. I come here every time I'm thinking about buying a new tool. I will definitely recommend your channel to friends.
Thanks so much!
Me To, 2023 Year Of Some New TooLs➕ KnowLedgeS✔️, Lol, + a WhoLe Lot Of PoLishing my Cook'n SkilLs.
Well said!
*wrenches
As a auto technician that was required to torque every wheel that came in the shop, my Snap On torque wrench after over 42 years of service, was only .01 lbs off when I retired. (They checked calibration every month for the last 15 years)
Thanks for sharing.
I agree Bobby, my Snap-on TQ250 no letter on end is old and still accurate too 1% , I check every now and then on Snap-on truck , Snap-on for the win 🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧
They checked calibration each month but didn't have to recalibrate?
@@n3tfury That is correct
@@bobbyjohnston937so the wrench did not need recalibration after how many cycles?
I retired as a mechanic. The difference between 50 and 52 ft lb is really insignificant in my opinion. Things like how clean the threads are, if anti-seize or Loctite is used, will have a greater impact. So one really is shopping for convenience of use, (arc swing, handle length, head size). Working with high torque items like crankshaft bolts would have me pick the longer handle over all other features.. For smaller bolts an inch lb wrench is typically used, (water pumps, valve covers etc). A test of these would be helpful. Accuracy here would be much more important. It is so much easier to strip out a 1/4" hole than a 1/2 "
Great review.
@@opieshomeshop
Did you not read OP’s entire post or did it really trigger you that someone other than yourself was a mechanic?
He said he was a mechanic, not a clean room scientist. The variance of the torque readings can be much, much greater when actual field conditions are taken into account. Therefore, when buying a tool, he prioritizes the factors that are actually significant to the work being performed. Sounds pretty intelligent to me.
If he were to assemble the occasional F1 engine in between brake jobs, he best not be reaching for Ole Trusty used every day on rusted lugs nuts. No, selecting the right tool for the application is definitely sound advice.
@@opieshomeshop the difference is insignificant if you torque all the bolts to the same value, so repeatibly torquing to 52 is better then some bolts getting 49 and some getting 51, but I would argue that even that is close enough
@@opieshomeshop
You can argue all you want, I am a certified airplane mechanic, and jet engine certified, and I have tools with much better tolerances, but your headbolts in your LS engine does not care about 2 ft lb as long as they all are the same torque.
@@someoneelse7629 @Opies Home Shop
Kids... stop fighting or you're both grounded. Nobody is questioning either of you on your knowledge, skill, experience, dick size, or 'back-in-my-day-things-were-tough" composite score. Now, say your sorry and go play nice or the next time I have to break you up it'll be discipline, understand? (sighs... -_-)
@@opieshomeshop When you're using Lb-ft as the unit of measurement, you're using a system that is operating entirely on the concept of 'close enough', as it's all trying to get in a ballpark of a set bolt tension range, and changes based on the condition of the threads, of the mating surfaces, material choices, lube or lack of, and material variation itself. All the acceptable variance has been long accounted for, and there is no mechanical device that can't have variance, especially vehicles.
WHOO HOO! I was waiting for this one ! Thanks for all your effort... That many clicks in one day would make me crazy !!
Hi Warped Perception, thank you very much! By the way, your video on adding 3 jet engines to your Tesla--AMAZING!
@@ProjectFarm thanks!! not as amazing as this test tho, I am beyond ecstatic that you actually included Craftsman in this test, the whole reason I requested this one was because I had just bought two brand new craftsman torque wrenches from a sears store that was closing!
That's one way to get 11,000 more clicks in one day I guess.
Crazy or crazier?!?
But that the filming was likely done during NNN... Coincidence? I think not.
...got a good one brewing for xmas? Eh? Whatcha working on? Electric go-kart? Pulse-jet? Cold fission? 😁
I was a calibration technician [Instrumentman] for the US Navy and calibrated thousands of torque wrenches. When checking for accuracy, we never used the bottom or top 10% of the tools range. Calibration certification was for the median 80% and tools should be chosen appropriately for the torque you are seeking. Another observation I made in that job was that snap-action torque wrenches often needed an adjustment to bring within +/-4% tolerance of that 80% median. While deflecting beam torque wrenches, that many people consider the 'cheap junk' wrenches were nearly always accurately calibrated. While there is no adjustment if they are out, I think I may have failed and scrapped one in my time in service. Seeing how you are checking these torque wrenches at 50 ft/lbs, which is at the bottom of it's stated 50-250 ft/lbs, I suggest checking them in that median 80% range and comparing scores again. PS: later in the video you covered the other ranges you tested...What are the accuracy comparisons if you throw out the 50 & 250 ft/lb measurement results?
Totally agree with what you're saying, but to a normal consumer, if it's inaccurate in the upper and lower parts of its range, then why are those areas included in the advertised range? If it's advertised as having a range of 50-250 ft/lbs +/- 4%, it should be +/- 4% across the whole range. If not, it should be advertised as whatever range it is accurate for, otherwise it's a bit misleading. What you're basically saying is that if you need to torque something to 50 ft/lbs, you can't use a 50-250 ft/lbs wrench because it won't be accurate, which to me means the tool is labelled incorrectly.
@@Berkeloid0 I can't deny that logic. If I had not had the training I did from the Navy, I'd never have known of this issue either. Nor know to choose a torque wrench suitable for the range of the fastener I'm needing to torque.
@@72SeaHag I can't remember where I initially learned it but I've followed basically what you're saying for over 20 years. They are usually most accurate in the middle to upper end of their range in my experience.
Yeah, as an auto mechanic I learned a hard lesson about click style vs deflection style torque wrenches a while back. I had a clicker that had been lying to me for who knows how long. It was off by like 15ft-lbs! After that I bought a deflection type torque wrench and never looked back. From time to time I calibrate it using a vice, precisely measured amounts of water ( for exact weight ) and a pen to correct the label that the needle points at.
I worked in a place where torquing was sacred and as Clayton noted the usable range of the wrench was limited. The Cal Lab would put a sticker on each wrench stating its usable range. We were also required to return the wrench to the storage setting which was 10% of its range at the end of the day or when returning to the toolroom. A 50-250lb/ft wrench would be set to 70 for storage. This was to put a slight tension on the spring. We were required to test each wrench on a *calibrated* torque tester before and after use. If a wrench failed calibration all the previous jobs it was used on were suspect and subject to having the torque checked.
I think the deviation on your initial tests coming right out of the box would have been tighter if you had exercised each of those wrenches for say 50 cycles at various settings.
I'm always amazed, not only by the time and effort dispensed on these videos, but also the amount of money spent on these tests. Thank you so much for all the trouble you have to provide acurate and unbiased test to us for free. This is really one of the absolute best channels on youtube
Believe me he's making way, way more than he spends on the tests.
Thank you!
@@michaellinner7772 as he should for providing this valuable service for his viewers
@@michaellinner7772 I hope so, because the information is invaluable.
@@michaellinner7772....and your point is?
I like how the 1000 round test really shows that the expensive wrenches actually do deliver extra value. Snap-On and Wera may be way pricier than the rest, but they also last far longer.
Thanks for sharing.
Maybe.
Snap on doesnt make their own torque wrenches though. All the big name tool truck brands have theirs made by precision torque
@@mg8718for wheels? Sure, but for small components or engines? 10% inconsistency can lead to multiple issues. Long term especially.
But yeah I wouldn’t care at all about my wheels being torqued 10% off, as long as it’s not cross threaded.
@@mg8718 I use a torque wrench for my bicycle, and overtorquing anything on a carbon frame by 10% is rather bad
The amount of dedication and time spent to measuring every detail of these tools is underappreciated. Every video this man makes impresses me.
This guy deserves every penny he's Making
I don't think you realize what the word "underappreciated" means... This video has 1.35 million views, and he has 2.3 million subscribers BECAUSE he does these types of tests and dedication... He's clearly appreciated.
I believe this channel is how he makes his living. I don't think saving time is a priority.
Net worth of 2+ million. Yeah definitely not appreciated...
if you knew how much he makes a month with youtube, you'd find it's not underappreciated
That was a good selection of wrenches that most of us never see. Good info. I calibrate and repair A LOT of wrenches every year (Air Force cal lab) and my best advice is to treat the wrench properly, whatever brand you have. They should only be used for final tightening, not as a breaker bar. Set to lowest setting after use, and I keep mine in the house so they don't get too cold or rusty. Rust is death to the internal pawl surfaces. We have to let them soak at 72 degrees for 8 hours, at the lowest setting before they are tested. If the handle is set below the lowest setting or the wrench is dropped, our customers are instructed to return them to the lab and we recalibrate them. My personal wrenches are Craftsman, mostly selected because of cost and availability versus the amount of use. Thanks for the test, good info.
I always see people putting them a few clicks below the lowest setting for storage and always wondered if it's a good idea,now I know (it's not)
Thanks.
Yeah lowest value after use is very important. and do not use first and last 5% of values at wrench. Those min max values are not accurate at click type of torque wrench.
Good info. Thanks!
When I was a mechanic repairing Mack trucks it was sad to see so many "mechanics" who didn't know these basic rules. This was something that my father taught me as a kid but it was also something you have to know to get your certs. I also used Craftsman for most things. It wasn't until I had to do all the DOT certifications that I had to use a Snap-on. That was because I needed to torque certain bolts to 600ftlbs and I had to have the wrench calibrated. That's a service the Snap-on dealer offered and he picked it up and dropped it off. My friend that did the engine repairs/rebuilds only used Snap-on but at home, he used a Craftsman. It depends on your needs and budget.
Our machine shop will tighten bolts to 150ftlbs and loose with the same wrench, haha
Before buying any tools these days I always look to see if Project Farm has done a comparison. Thank you for the time and effort you put in. By the way, my next purchases will be a die grinde and a cordless Jigsaw ;)
Thanks and you are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm ya dude, your work is useful to the consumer
I have the Dewalt cordless die its awesome
I do too!!!! Thank you project farm!!!
i do the same thing too
Thanks Todd, Project Farm dude! You help so many of us discern between quality and junk on tools, which seems harder to navigate on reviews these days. Always consistent and scientifically sensible. I personally appreciate it.
You are welcome! Thanks for supporting the channel! I realy appreciate it!
FYI - There are requirements in some industries (including aerospace) that the torque wrench must be cycled at least 6 times at maximum torque before use. Essentially, some of the variance you were seeing in your initial 6 tests could be due to internal resistance within the tool after sitting static in shipping. The following is an excerpt from TO 32B14-3-1-101, para 6.3 that we use:
" Prior to the use of any torque device that has a breakaway feature (includes torque screwdrivers which may
have multiple break points as the handle is rotated 360 degrees), the torque device to be used must be cycled
through the breakaway torque as recommended in the manufacturer’s brochure. If the manufacturer’s brochure
is not available, set the torque device at the maximum setting and cycle through the breakaway torque at least
six times. This can be accomplished by (typical example) securing the square tang of the wrench in a smooth
jawed vise. This breakaway exercise can be performed at the beginning of a work shift or any time subsequent,
however, it is not required more than once each shift (normally eight hours) on the specific torque wrench or
wrenches to be used. The purpose of the breakaway procedure permits special internal lubricant to recoat
internal working parts, eliminating internal resistance to give the most accurate reading possible."
We actually have different drive size sockets welded to a metal bench in order to complete this calibration every time we check one out from our tool crib.
EDIT for comments - Please keep in mind that these results should still be representative of the tool's quality (in some ratio of the results published here). This information does not negate the results found (like some silver bullet as if this were an argument), it merely makes it more impressive that these manufacturer's torque wrenches can still be fairly precise, even when not internally lubricated. I would bet that the data curve would still reflect the results found in this video, even after performing this "warm-up procedure" (as Jake called it), just perhaps to a lesser degree of deviation.
Thanks for sharing.
Yeah but this is for normal'ish, everyday'ish, consumer... regular people'ish use though. Getting off track!!!
Incredible. I wonder if that "wrench warm-up proceedure" was mentioned in the instructions of any of these wrenches that were tested.
@@jake9705 right but from what I’ve seen of project farm he reads the information so I’d assume it doesn’t say it I could be wrong but what a awesome channel this is
Having worked in aerospace manufacturing I can assure you that it has always bothered me that some accept the idea of just picking up a torque tool and assuming it is good. We had requirements for tools used in manufacturing where the tools were set and only used at one setting with certification required every 90 days. On tools used for service the tools were only to be certified in 80% of the range with the bottom and top 10% excluded.
Some tools were required to be tested after use at the time Quality Assurance was signing off the operations, no mater what their calibration status.
If you are serious about torque, what ever tool you are using you need to have it tested periodically and certified. Also remember to zero the adjustment when you are done!
If highly accurate torque is required that anti-seize on the threads is required to insure that mechanical friction variations are minimized. remember the point of torquing is to apply compression to the item the fastener is being assembled with, not to twist the fastener. Anti-seize is for proper assembly and to protect the threads during torquing, not to aid disassembly as some people think.
im glad you went through the difference just 10 ft/lbs makes. Many people know that is a massive difference in clamp load, but there are people that have no idea. explaining that it is 1500lb difference on a bolt really helps.
It kind of makes me want to never guess again. It’s too bad there isn’t a torque wrench the size of a standard ratchet for those difficult to access bolts under the hood or in the wheel well.
Thanks!
Funny how brand names using words like "Superior, Performance, or Excell", tend to underperform, but in this case it improved a little with use. LOL Fantastic testing as always! Thank you
Dude it kills me that I always catch you in the same channels. BigClive, EEVBlog, here and so on. So cool!
Great point! I now avoid brands that make reference to "performance".
There's a company that has the name "superior" in front of oxygen on their sign, so I couldn't help myself. I told them I was joking, and that I suppose they think they are breathing better stuff than anyone else.😜
@@ProjectFarm wouldve liked to see Precision Instruments included as theyre one of the affordable US Made units and make wrenches for the "big brands"
Could the movement / deflection of the wooden bench have affected results?
My son is looking for a torque wrench so immediately I think of my favorite U Tuber and all around honest guy! I’m sharing this video with him so he can make a wise decision. THANK YOU again for all your hard work!!!!!!!
Thanks and you are welcome!
"Inspected by: DUNG" was a pleasant surprise lol!
Good job! The thoroughness of your testing never ceases to amaze. Although not a sufficient sample size to be representative of each product I have purchased many of the products you have tested with similar results.
Yes. :29 made me laugh too. I have no doubt DUNG did his best job.
Dung is DA MAN!
That's true Crampmanship right there!!! There in the middle of the lawn of documentation.... a big pile of "Crampmansh!t!"!
I as a child watched as a weed grown up around junk tools and know the differences.... I won't be needing to purchasing many more tools in my trade but when Dung is around the weeds will be growing. Soon they will be in my shop asking for me to fix their car because they did it with Dung tools. (I don't wanna say you did it wrong.... most torque wrench will do it right.... but a tow truck is pretty cheap in comparison).
Would love to see digital torque wrenches and adaptors as well as if dropping a torque wrench or adapter actually makes it less accurate.
Some digital adaptors and wrenches can also do angle measurements for torque to yield fasteners, that would be interesting to see how accurate thoes are as well.
Great video!
Definitely could've done a few more test like you mentioned with the drop test and digital and adapters. Also with the low budget wrenches and would've liked to see if storing at zero load vs storing at lowest setting has on accuracy.
@@voongnz sounds like good video ideas going forward, can only pack so much info into one video
That’s a great idea - would’ve been great to see digital vs mechanical as an extra comparison.
As well as drop testing etc another could be if/how very low or high temps affects the calibration.
Thanks as always @ProjectFarm 👍🏼
Two brands I'd want to see, although ridiculously expensive are from milwaukee and CAT. CAT is for insanely high torque specs you'd see on their engines and the milwaukee was supposed to be super accurate and have a digital readout.
I would have been interested how Stahlwille would have performed.
It has the best way of adjustment (not having to turn the handle) and has a swappable head
Almost everything CAT branded is Snap-on.
Milwaukee is crap as soon as you've used it once on anything higher than 150. The Cat is a pro tool (not prosumer like the Milwaukee and DeWalt) and they have all sizes so it's for any torque the model you buy is for.
If we're going to include Pro tools then Hilti will win every test ever made so what's the point, it also costs about twice as much as the Milwaukee and DeWalt.
@@size1985 Stahlwille sounds as if a Chinese Rammstein fan was tasked with finding a German sounding name.
@@size1985 Yes Stahlwille and Gedore should be tested to.
In the market for torque wrenches so I decided to look up reviews. No surprise, your channel has reviews!! Thank you for all your hard work!!
Awesome! Thank you
1000 cycles per wrench? Very impressive! Your dedication to testing and detail never ceases to amaze me.
Thanks!
That's what kids are for.
"Wanna make a quarter? Click this 1,000 times."
That trick only works once per kid...
BS! Test these wrenches in 5 and 10 years where they are used weekly and see how accurate and repeatable they are.
@@achristian7015 this is a TH-cam channel, not a scientific study with a full staff to abuse a torque wrench for 5 years.
He did a *simple* test that was acceptable in both effort and outcome, he stressed the hardware *somewhat* and got different results from each tool, thus, a fair gauge of how they hold up. If this minor amount of wear affects their accuracy it's a fair bet they'd fail completely after 5 years in a shop.
@@glenwaldrop8166 So really, it is quite worthless like many of the tests. For that reason, I hardly watch the vast majoity of them. I worked in a government standards lab for over 20 years.
Easily the most intense testing you've done to date. Your dedication to providing us with concrete performance of products is mind blowing!
Wish you would consider doing a similar test with 1/4” drive torque drivers and wrenches for us DIY bike mechanics. Most of the fasteners are 6-14NM and easily stripped. Thanks for all your valuable time!
You are welcome!
Yes spot on.
Man I’d love to see a video of that too. Fellow bike mechanic here. Love his in-depth reviews.
Dang. That's hand tight
Buy park tool, it's not worth risking for that. Get the tw 1.2 and 2.2
Another great test! Summary: Snap-on for the professional mechanic, including anyone who rebuilds racing or high powered, precision engines; Icon for the DIYer, with similarly performing DIY brands being perfectly adequate depending on your needs, current price and availability. Many people use impact wrenches to remove nuts and bolts, particularly the lug nuts on trucks and SUVs with high torque requirements- when replacing these items, which usually need to be tightened in a certain sequence and to specific high torque values, be sure to use one of these higher rated torque wrenches, of your choice, for the final tightening to factory specs. Under-tightened lug nuts can result in wheels falling off while you're driving; under-tightened cylinder head bolts can result in blown head gaskets and warped heads, depending to a certain extent on what the head is made of and whether or not it is a high performance engine.
Thanks to Todd for making this excellent video.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
No. Snap on is JUNK
Just last night I literally searched all of your videos for best Torque Wrench and couldn't find it. Seemed odd you haven't done a review on these already.
Thank you for the research that you do!
Perfect timing!! Thank you!
I literally did the exact same thing a week ago.
Project Farm.
Can you do a review of Pri - G Fuel Treatment? I've had tremendous success with it over the years restoring bad gasoline and making new gas way better almost instantly.
50 ish dollars to treat 512 gallons. It almost seems too good to be true.
As a Professional Calibrator Technician for over 45 years, you did a pretty good job. There are some areas you can improve this comparison. First, you load cell needs to be better anchored. The excessive flex on that table will cause inconsistency in your readings. Second, You need to build a jig that keeps the handle exactly level 90° to the load cell. Any human inserted angle will again induce error. There's a big difference between Calibration and Use of a Torque Wrench. Professionals should have their Torque Wrench Calibrated by a Certified Lab once a year or if the wrench is dropped. Always store your Torque Wrench at Zero or the Lowest Indicated Value. Otherwise, you will induce a memory on the torque spring and it will no longer produce the correct Torque. IMHO, My all time favorite was Stuart Richmond, they may been bought by another company now.
You make some excellent points, but I think the way the testing was done mimics how the wrenches would actually be used and thus shows how they perform when used. Maybe a follow up video where the results using your feedback are compared to these would show the difference between how a tool performs when used vs how it is tested in a calibration setup.
@Charles Larkin Unless calibration is relatively cheap compared to the cost of the tool then I would either not do it or just buy a second tool to compare against.
I do our shop wrench calibrations. VERY VALID points, error can easily be introduced. Example is when Snap On first came out with their digital wrench if you were NOT in the CENTER of the GRIP area you could easily miss target torque. I personally was able to get over 4% error out of mine sent it back to them under warranty and was told it was in calibration. The new ones seam to work good better than 1%.
Valid points for sure, however, at least for testing purposes all these wrenches were used on the same test plane.
I looked up Sturtevant Richmond calibration tools, they claim +\- 1% on many models, they have neat industrial options like radios inside I assume to transmit torque figures and calibration on equipment to a database. A mere 900$ USD for their DTC-15, but sounds about right for industrial\engineering applications. Great video though, I didn't know they could deviat that much, I've done lots of cylinder heads over the years!
Would love to see a digital torque wrench showdown and a part 2 to this with all the other brands.
I second this. Been eyeing the ACDELCO digital torque wrench but curious to see how it fares against the Milwaukee
Yep the snap on digital is dang near 900
Thanks for the video idea.
@@ProjectFarm Digital wrenches should be very consistent performance all the time, so you may need to change the tests. Only extreme temperature variation or overstraining the tool are likely to significantly alter readings, since there are no moving mechanical parts to cause discrepancies. Digital wrenches are almost invariably a strain gauge kind of setup so there's not much to go wrong.
Agreed
This kind of testing and information is avaiable only here and is of immense value to me as a home mechanic working on expensive motorcycles. Thank you so much!
You are welcome!
Being an auto mechanic for over 20yrs, I'm glad to see the Snap-On torque wrenches I paid so much money for came on top. I also really liked to see the long term performance after all the cycling. Since professional mechanics use their tools far more often that the average home mechanic. I see the Icon as a really good value after all that testing. It's 25% of the cost of the Snap-On but it performed near the top overall. Plus you can usually find a 20% off coupon from the Harbor Freight email deals.
Thanks for the feedback.
and if after 5 years you need to buy another, you can have 4 or 5 new ones in the same time frame for the same price as that snap on, that is probably proof snap on is just over priced as shit. especially these days. Maybe back in the day, but the cost to value ratio on them now is basically nonexistent with so many other even mechanic grade options for a fraction of the cost.
@skutch Blobaum You still at Jiffy Lube?
As someone who sells Snap-on tools this also made me glad!
Tools especially fall under the American rule-you get what you pay for
In my automotive experience turque wrenches operating at their minimum torque value are most prone to being inaccurate. In you need to torque fasteners to 50 ft-lb you are probably better off with a 3/8" drive torque wrench with lower torque range. Nevertheless the results for your tests to 50 ft-lb are pretty good.
I've heard that that's especially important with motorcycles and other things that drop down into the 20s-10s or single digit newton meters, that with a cheapo torque wrench it's easy to strip things out while attempting to put down the correct torque figure.
@@lolatmyage Correct, I've had this happen on a spark plug. I carry two torque wrenches now. One from say 5-40 ft lb the other from 50 - 200
@@lolatmyage That's especially true with the Pittsburgh torque wrenches. I have a Pittsburgh "in/lb" torque wrench that I bought for working on a small Honda scooter. Fortunately, I never got a chance to use it for that particular application. I have since found out that it's so far out of calibration that it's going to destroy pretty much anything it's used on.... I mean, we're talking calibration being off by ft/lbs....on an in/lb torque wrench.... Basically, the lower the torque range, the more important accuracy becomes. When torqueing down lug nuts, 1-2ft/lb variance isn't an issue. When torqueing say, bearing retainer plates in a Ford DPS6 transmission, 1-2ft/lbs of variance is disastrous....
you want to use a torque wrench ideally within its 40-65% range. say your torquing a fastener to 80 ft lbs; a torque wrench spanning from 40-110 would be ideal.
@@lolatmyage I can confirm, I stripped a sump bolt using a cheap wrench with too wide of a range. I've never stripped a bolt with the pricier wrenches with smaller ranges after.
Would love to see more torque wrench tests including: Digital style, as well as dial indicator styles wrenches. The Dial Indicator wrenches tend to be more accurate, at least they’re usually advertised with tighter accuracy, typically 3% clockwise (or less).
I’d also like to see different size wrenches from the popular brands, so like the 100 Ft Lb max range, as well as Inch/Pound wrenches. Wondering if they’re any more accurate as they get smaller. The typical torque range for most things I work on, which is mostly cars and firearms don’t exceed 100 Ft-Lbs, and are often listed in the Inch-Lbs range.
I ONLY use the dial indicator type in all my Harley engine builds, never had any issues. Used it on a couple 302'a as well, no issues.
I would also like to see digital torque adapters and wrenchs. 👍
No one born in the last 50 years uses a beam torque wrench. And anything rated in inch pounds is “snug” and not worth using a torque wrench.
@@someusername121 Snug is way too relative to the person tightening it. I've seen so many burned up electrical connections because that person's version of snug was insufficient. Also electrical lugs in the US are almost always rated in inch pounds even though the values can be very high. A typical 200 amp main breaker is 250 inch pounds. That's more than snug. Anyways So I appreciate it when torque wrenches have the inch pound scale on them
@@someusername121 some of us younger military mechanics still use beams.
I always checke your videos before buying a new tool! I was a bit bummed to see gearwrench got left out on this one. But its hard to complain when you test each items over 1,000 times 😂 keep up the great content man!
I've had two Tekton torque wrenches for a few years now. Average basic use on some cars and a couple of Harley Davidsons. They've held up nicely. Calibration was recently checked and was still respectable. The 1/4" inch pound cost me about $45 and the 1/2" foot pound model cost me $75. Both come with nice, protective cases, calibration certs, instructions. I've been happy with my purchases and would recommend them. I'm only tightening critical fasteners, not reassembling engines, etc.
Thanks for sharing!
I was really sad to not see Tekton included here.
I'm glad you commented, I bought one for my brother-in-law a few years ago. He's been doing more of his own repairs and I know my Craftsman is a heap compared to my dad's old Craftsman and they seemed to have pretty solid reviews.
ive had one for 5 years, use it on my jeep wrangler and it is solid. Mine was only like 40 bucks tho!
It would be interesting to see a seasoned mechanic torquing according to “feel” to see how close they can get. Great work! Thank you 👍
Thank you!
Or, how many ugga duggas of an impact equals 50 ft lb? 😆
@@mattbauckman9907 4 on 3/8 air, 3 on millsquakee 3/8 electric, but it’s hard to count. Auto tires deserve a torque stick, ag and industrial wheels, heads and exhaust deserve a good wrench
These 10 mechanics claim to be able to torque by feel. In this video we're going to test that!
3 rata tats
Been subscribed for around 3 years maybe more and it still blows my mind the amount if effort you put into every video! I know we all really appreciate it!
Calibrated by DUNG is all you need to know about the $45 wrench…
😂😂😂😂😂
Saw that too 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hey now. 😮
Dũng (or maybe Dung if the calibrator was a woman) is a very beautiful Vietnamese name that usually is translated to something like "bravery" or "courage". Unfortunately, these days in America, people change it to Dzung or Yung (which is how it is actually pronounced, depending on region) because of how English speakers try to pronounce it.
I'd definitely like to see CDI tested against a Snap-On. They're an OEM for Snap-On but a lot cheaper and I'm curious about the difference in accuracy. I'd imagine they're pretty close.
So would I. My CDI torque wrench was 1/2 the price of a Snap-On brand. I purchased the CDI for home use after my HF wrench vibrated apart in my truck.
Agreed. They are very competitively priced. I would at least expect similar performance to Proto being that it’s a brand that associates itself with industrial tooling(whatever that may mean in the context of tools).
I believe CDI Torque Products manufactures Snap On Tool torque wrenches.
Same here. I have that “vintage” Craftsman, that’s been recalibrated once since new, and a newer CDI for my beadlock bolts, which I figured was a critical application 👍🏼
@@mhs0407 like Dil mentioned, they are OEM for Snap-On. Or at least under the "Snap-On" umbrella. They don't have the "tool truck" warranty or the overhead.
Fantastic work on this video. As someone who works in a laboratory, I appreciate the detail that goes into your videos. I'm going to get the ICON or DeWalt after watching this and ditch my $25 Pittsburgh starter wrench. A couple of inches in length makes a big difference in the effort needed to get higher torque values.
Thank you!
Really impressive work, thank you. Glad the test didn’t break the SnapOn reputation. Your 1000 cycle test was something I didn’t expect you would do…but again: you are beating all expectations. Merry Christmas and looking forward to your next video.
You are welcome! Merry Christmas!
I'll die on the hill of SnapOn being overpriced on *almost* tool they offer. If, however you work in a field where you need the repeatability within a tight range then the SnapOn is a good call. But for your average professional homeowner the Icon will be just wonderful. And I think an auto mechanic would be well served with the SK or the Proto.
But SnapOn power or air tools? No thanks look elsewhere for essentially anything. You can find so much better impacts and drills both air and battery for 1/3-1/2 the price
@@jeffreyhill1011snap on hand tools, milwaukee power, and ir air
Anyone watching for the first time: Todd is the man! Thank you for all of the help over the years!
You are welcome!
Great video; always appreciate your attention to detail. And your lawnmowers are breathing sighs of relief. ;)
While working for a major aerospace company, I got rotated through its calibration lab, and so appreciate the thoroughness of your testing. Micrometer style torque wrenches (like these tested) operate on steel balls swimming in cup grease or similar lubricant. Accuracy is therefore primarily dependent on the balls being true spheres, and to a smaller extent on the quality of the lubricant. These factors point to the need for recalibration after heavy use; a tiny flat spot can lead to uneven torquing of your workpiece. This is also why it is important to store the tool at its lowest torque setting, along with the spring losing is initial tensile qualities.
The steel balls and the flat rings they run on are also subject to almost imperceptible imperfections and variations that become more apparent with use. The tolerance range is there for a reason; as the testing illustrated, never assume that the measurements are spot on.
Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing.
I am not sure the actual schematic/function of the spring in this application, but springs lose tension with cycles not compression time. I saw a gun mag test one time as the debate was centered around leaving a mag loaded will damage the spring....it did not..... is the spring used in the same manner inside of the wrench....I do not know. I just wanted to throw out compressed springs VS non compressed springs over time is negligible to the spring....its cycles that wear down on tension.
@Shawn Cockrell , the stress of the cycles certainly points to the need for regular recalibration, particularly in professional applications, and would be more critical than compression status. However, it doesn't seem wise to discount compression time, and the standard recommendation is to always store a torque wrench at the lowest point on the range.
Something else to consider is the pressure the spring places on the steel balls and the plates they ride on. Why take a chance on some tiny bit of grit getting more chance than necessary to create imperfections?
Please do more! I wanna know how in accurate they get after forgetting to take the torque off of them for some time and how much they’re off after being dropped. This was an awesome video and it looked like a ton of work. Thank you so much! We really do appreciate the time and money you put into these!
Getting ready to order more torque wrenches. Perfect timing.
Nice!!
OMG I'm in love with this guy!!!
The only person on the internet who ACTUALLY test and show his tests! Rock solid!
Thanks!
Several years ago I was doing some torque work that required some pretty exact torque. I was using my Craftsman TW which I had purchased in the 80s. I wanted to get it calibrated so I went to a local machine shop, famously known for building high performance engines. I asked if they would please test my 30 YO TW. They looked at me as if I had lobsters crawling out of my ears! They had no way of testing TWs! I was shocked. My 22 years in the U.S.A.F. mostly as an aircraft mech, we tested and calibrated TWs at a very strict intervals and ALWAYS after one was dropped or suspected of being dropped. I guess that I expect too much.
I have only met one mechanic that insisted that all his torque wrenches were calibrated every quarter, funny thing is he was apprenticed to one of the older coach companies in my area, and their stock was antique !
military tends to have a huge budget and everything in one place. machine shop has no space for a calibrating machine but chances are they farm it out to a specialized tool shop.
@@ysesq Big shop and they acted like it was a new thing.
I’ve never met a tech that cares about torque values enough to get a wrench calibrated. Most buy a $30 wrench from harbor freight and use it until it breaks, me included. I’ve built hundreds of engines without issue. If you’re within a few pounds it’s fine.
Interesting. I was told to take my TW to aircraft maintenance facilities to get them calibrated.
When your wrench is calibrated by DUNG, you just know it's going to be the sh*t!
“50 foot pounds of Dung” is my new band’s name.
Very funny,i like it,mind you, Dung might be better than calibrated by Wong.
@@enoz.j3506 Do two Wongs make a right?
@@charlies418 LOL,in this case No.
D Letterman, before he went woke, had the owner of the best name in the NY phone book on his show, Harry Dong.
Very glad that ICON and SK performed well in this test because I use these brands every day and my life depends on it. Proto performed well too and many of my co-workers use these. Thank you for this test.
This was a neat experiment. I'm a calibrator, I can testify that the Snap On is the best overall. If you think that it is too expensive you also have to consider the longevity of the tool and how easy it is for a calibrator to bring it back to specs. I've seen Snap On wrenches dating back to 1996 and still performing well. The Snap On is without a doubt the best one in terms of staying within tolerance and ease of adjustment.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Do you have any recommendations for digital torque wrenches with angle measurement?
@@2001kbass generally I recommend you to get specialized tools because they tend to last longer. I haven't really had too much good history with these do it all type tools. They are useful but don't really hold up to par for precision work.
Interesting I know a few people who work in the tool production industry and the general consensus among them is if you do a bad job snap on will hire you and in my experience I've gotten tools from them that show it , some didn't last a week on a rig so as a user of the tools I would go with most other brands imo . I don't dislike snap on but they are genuinely over priced from what I've seen . There are plenty of usa made craftsman from the 80's still working accurately , so I think tools that have not held up for at least 50 years are not worth mentioning considering the premium price point of the tool brand being mentioned.
I'm a mechanic and would also testify in your court that snap on is very poor value for money! I have had craftsman dating back to the 1950's and I can always replace broken lost or stolen tools of same quality. Snapon won't do that for 5 times the price!
I will say a torque wrench is one if my favorite tools! I have always wanted to consider upgrading to a digital version and would love to see how they compare to the equivalent mechanical based wrench. At this rate with all the items you’ve tested, you’ll be able to open a Project Farm museum exhibit XD! Well done again!
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
I agree, I am a retired auto/marine tech and have 2 Snap-On digital wrenches in 3/8" and 1/2". over $1000 for both. I had them recertified twice over the past 12 years but I would like to see if they were worth the $$$$
I'll echo a want for this test as well. I've been considering upgrading to one for a while. Also awesome test and you're nuts for doing this test
Great video, only thing I'd like to mention is the bench/table starts to give when you torque higher loads which can give greater uncertainty.
Thanks! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
I’d love to see a digital torque wrench test. I know even brands like craftsman now have digital variants, but how would they compare to the ~$700 snap on one? I can’t imagine that would be a cheap video though…
I bought the Snap Off 15-300ftlb flex head plus angle. I broke bolts in a Harley case with a cheap HF once, never again….I have experience with Proto and CDI too. The Snap On is so freakin nice. I want the (or a) smaller one for tight spaces. But now don’t want to pay. Indeed a digital shootout would be great. But maybe only 5,000 clicks for that video?
@@bvrgrn1038 I bought a harbor freight one for an emergency and never used it again. Went and got the professional grade click type from snap on for about $200, which I later traded in for $200 off my digital snap on. I agree, nothing is quite as nice, and I recently bought a 3/8 one to help me get some of the lower end stuff like cam caps on the Ford’s I work on (Ford tech).
I bought a 3/8 digital snap on torque wrench with a student discount. Still came out to like $300, but it’s so nice. I love having the sound, sight, and feel response when hitting your target torque.
I use the dewalt ones myself but it would be nice having a digital one for torque angle bolts/ studs. The dial meter that goes in-between a breaker bar and socket is kinda a pain in some spots.
I bought Harbor freight $10 torque wrench like 2 years ago. I'm using it for all of my car repair stuff. BUT sometimes I never hear click and I almost slipped 3 times.... Since then I just use it for lug nuts... 80ftlb.
I've had my Snap-On wrench for almost 11 years and its never failed, recommend!
Thanks for the feedback.
I'm impressed by the Icon, that'll probably be what I end up buying. I was surprised to see that you didn't test the cheaper Pittsburg HF torque wrenches. A ton of projects are getting torqued down with Pittsburg every day ... I have a suspicion that the $24 Pittsburg doesn't stand up to the tests.
I have snapped bolts with the pittsburg. Never should anyone buy it EVER
I almost snapped head bolts with Pittsburgh torque wrench, I need it wasn’t working properly as it felt very tight and hadn’t “clicked” yet, so we ended up borrowing my buddys snap on and sure enough the bolt was already past spec, Pittsburgh just wasn’t working properly! I have had success with it before, and hadn’t used it in a while before this but definitely wouldn’t trust it for any serious repairs anymore.
I have tested the cheap Pittsburgh ones, including one that was several years old on our snap-on tester at work and all were within 4-5% of what they should be, and one of them was spot-on. They're great, especially for the price.
I've stripped bolts with the Pittsburgh. I don't really trust them after having that happen a couple times. The 3/8 and 1/4 drive ones are even worse.
@@iansmith9201 I'm actually relieved to hear this. I did a brake job on my car a while back with a HF wrench, and I had this happen on one of the caliper mounting bolts. I swore I could feel one bolt getting way tighter than the rest, and I just stopped tightening it.
Great video as always. I do think you should redo this one, though, with the torque meter bolted to steel. I noticed in most of the tests the wood table top flexed under load. A more rigid mount would increase the tests accuracy and precision.
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
Yes good comment, I was thinking the same. There is very obvious flex in the plywood bench that the torque tester is fastened to, I believe the flex could effect the percentage range and definitely the consistency. With the exception of the cheapest Performance Tools wrench to be honest I would say none of these wrenches performed badly to the point of damaging a fastener. Even torquing down a cylinder head any of these would be better than just hand tightening. My bet is a lot of people are purchasing the Icon Harbour Freight and this test has it performing as a good tool.
Even with the bench flex this is still and excellent test, I was surprised just how close performing they all were.
@@ProjectFarm if you do end up redoing it, add the cheap Pittsburgh harbor freight torque wrench into the mix!
Edit * please! :)
From the looks of the setup, that would only mean the wrenches that over torque would do even worse, and wrenches under torquing would be closer to accurate.
That and I'm pretty sure you need to cycle torque wrenches a couple hundred times before use to break them in. That's what I hear though not 100 percent sure
I have a wera torque wrench for over 9 years now and regularly clean and service it and then check the accuracy. I'm still amazed it's working as accurately as any in the field even though I've dropped it around it's great. I have a new one sitting in the box in the garage the past 2 years and haven't needed to change just yet. As always a great informative video 👍
Had to pause at 47 seconds to say this. Holyy cow the amount of information is exactly what i want in product reviews. Very well done man I'll continue to watch as i eat my popcorn chicken and SUBSCRIBED
Thanks! Thanks for watching and subscribing.
I've always wondered how temperature affects torque wrenches. There's a big difference between a nice warm shop and a repair out in the field in the middle of winter.
I would imagine there is a small difference, but is it enough difference to make a difference? Particularly when they already have an expected up to 4% variability.
ISO 6789 specifies +/- 4% from -15°C to +40°C
I was also thinking this would be nice to see.
As a mechanic I always love to see snap on compared to other brands. I know the price point is out of the question for many people. When you depend on your tools day in and day out. The longevity of them and consistency is key.
Thanks for the feedback.
Snap-On makes some good stuff but a lot of their tools are just overpriced.
I've got some Stanley screwdrivers that are every bit as strong and I got an entire set for the price of a single Snap-On, same with pry bars.
Honestly the Snap-On tools may be technically stronger but if the cheaper quality tool is still 4x stronger than the materials you're working with (cutting tools, snapping bolts, etc) what's the point?
Their ratchets, however, I'd probably pony up that $$ without a second though. They last. Not a fan of their air ratchets, at least not the 90s models.
I became a full time mechanic back in 1991 and my dealer sold me a 3/8 and 1/2 in torque wrenches with the new swivel heads. 2 years ago a Snap-on dealer tested them and we were both amazed, they were still spot on. Best $400 for both I ever spent on tools.
Once you use a snap-on ratchet, all other ratchets feel like toys in the hand, they're not cheap but when you use them 10 to 12 hours a day 6 days a week they're definitely worth it.
@@bradbeck2601 They're ok but not as good as a Matco ratchet.
All I have to say is I love this guy. He has to be the best you tuber in the world. Only way I buy a tool is buy checking project farm. Thank you for being honest and not taking checks from companies.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I tested a Kobalt to a SnapOn and the results were surprisingly close, so I've been using Kobalt torques only.
I absolutely love how you throw it an old, very used tool like that. It really goes to show how build quality has diminished over the years. I have an early 1980s sears and roebuck craftsman lawn mower. The first start of the season is very hard, after that she starts on the third pull without even priming it. It's truly bulletproof. Thanks duralube
In 2001 leaving Reno heading to Elko to pick up a pipeline welder,, brought along the Panasonic camcorder, just bought a rebuilt engine for my Chevy truck 6cl 250 traveling 60 miles an hour (Bang) number two piston went through the right side of a block.. smoke everywhere,, took a fast left across the medium, cut back on to the west bound lane back to Reno. my daughter's was with me. she video taped the whole thing when number three piston went out through the left side of a block.. I had a smoke screen that is blocking my lane behind me . My daughter says Dad we got to stop! and I said no we don't!! well keep going, she says but the smoke is blocking the freeway I said it'll clear up because there's no oil pressure. About an eighth of a mile it was completely clear behind us, neither one of us had a cell phone and you're so far out in the desert there is no telephone booth. forget it if you think you're going to get help. I drove that Chevy truck 28 MI to the nearest casino gas station... Lifted the hood in the engine was glowing red..on the right side of a block.
I could put my hand right through the hole, left side was the bottom crank shaft bearing laying on the engin mount. I religiously have always used Dura lube. Every now and then I show my friends the video tape and guess what they put in their engines Dural lube.
that stuff is good enough to pour on your eggs in the morning.😂
I don't think build quality has decreased. You can buy quality tools but people just want cheap. The consumer mindset has changed from the days of built to last.
@@daleslover2771 I've heard nearly identical stories from several people as well! That stuff works miracles
@@cchavezjr7 I beg to differ. Years ago even the "cheap" tools were built simply and reliably. Like ratchets. Now you're hard pressed to find a ratchet with steel mechanisms for under $50
@@guitarhippie Not true. The good old days sound good but there were tons of cheap stuff you could order from a catalog or in a 5 and dime store. We romanticize the stuff that we remember lasting but there was a ton of crap out there.
Great test!
I recognize that older Craftsman you brought in to test. I bought one of those as a gift for my son about 10 years ago, and it was about 3 months before he put it to use here in my home shop. The ratcheting mechanism failed completely on the second head bolt he was torquing on a Honda Motorcycle engine. When I say failed, I mean the drive could be spun in any direction and with only finger strength it would spin without any resistance against the pawl. Naturally, I took it back, and was disgusted to find the tool manager told me that the Craftsman line of Torque wrenches at that time had a 30 day warranty!
That was the last Craftsman tool I purchased. I have no idea what they warranty them for now, but buyer beware...
I have two 50 year old Proto Torque wrenches that were my Dads, and a Cornwell at home and one ICON in my road trip box.
One of the tool truck guys has a Proto tester like the one you showed and he loves to test my old Proto Torque wrenches. They are as accurate as his comparable new ones when he demos them, and closer when I do it, LOL.
I’d like to see more budget tools from Harbor Freight in the comparisons but these tests are very well done. Entertaining and thorough every time.
I know that they strive to have the icon series try and match snap-on. I know they don't always beat them but it's nice to have tools that are actually reasonably priced.
He uses Harbor Freight tools in these comparisons quite frequently. Usually he uses their Pittsburgh brand, but their torque wrenches are notoriously inaccurate. In some instances, their inaccuracy exceeds their rated scale....
I would have liked the HF Pittsburgh in there.
Been watching for awhile. I listen to a lot of videos at 1.25 or 1.5 speed. Can't do that with yours! Love the speed and clarity of speech. Finally need a torque wrench and knew where to look. Thanks!
man this is amazing the attention to detail the COMPREHENSIVE TESTING wow just wow 👏 I'm so Glad you make this useful content you are helping so many people buy the right tool for them with no advertising bs !! thank you
Thank you very much!
Very thorough and unbiased testing, as usual. (I caught the Synthetic oil, then the filter tests & have been a subscriber ever since). Depending upon one's needs, this is most valuable information. Nobody wants to throw money away, as a proper mechanic requires so many these days. Great job! Thank-you!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Its too bad you did not try. The mack tool wrenck
Lots of concern about flexing of the table. Having been through the snapon torque training class I can say that will not change the results in any meaningful way. You can literally put 50 extensions of various sizes together and get an accurate torque and thus clamping force with a torque wrench. Calibrating vs testing the repeatability of a wrench are very different things. Engines and parts move and flex when torqued especially at high torque specs. So the flexing table really doesn't concern me in the least.
Yes, the point of measurement is between the tool and the measurement instrument. As long as it, (eventually), stays fixed when the load is applied there is no problem.
Adding extensions has always skewed torque results. When snap on can make a tool worth the investment, then they can try to teach a torque wrench class. Until then, my 20+ years of real world experience will remain the industry standard. You always want the head of the torque wrench as close to the fastener as possible to get the most accurate results. No overpriced underperforming brand name can ever change physics.
@@winkletown8828 we were testing this on a strain guage that measures clamping force it agreed with the snapon torque wrench calibration station. So your real world opinion is invalid unless you have a means to prove it. Thus why they use a strain or clamping force guage in the class. They don't make it and the manufacturer of the guage has no reason to make snapon look good.
@@RyanRansom When people say the extensions have no impact on final torque, I just cannot believe it. Im torsioning the extensions,
doesn't that use up force? Id love this explained to me.
@@sompka1 If you use 10 extensions that begin to twist at 100ft/lbs than yes, the extension will twist every so slightly and possibly throw off your torque a few %, but nearly negligible.
It's really only when you're not 90 degrees to what you're torqueing.
My shoulder is aching just thinking about 10,000+ cycles with the torque wrenches! Thanks for your efforts on this and all your tool testing videos. Extremely helpful and valuable when making tool purchases. Also very interesting just to see how the brands compare. My father’s old MAC torque wrench from the 1970s recently stripped a gear and unable to find a repair kit. Will use the information from your video to make a decision for the replacement. As always, great content, testing and editing!
Thanks!
I work in the metrology field. Thank you for the information very useful. The only flaw in your test is the error of +/- percentage has to be reference to the actual calibration and not the nominal for accuracy and than you will need to factor in the error of the gauge.
Great test! Thoughts from my Navy Nuclear Power days; 1) We exclusively used Snap-On dial type torque wrenches with the light bulb indicator disabled. The required torque had to be within 1/4 - 7/8 of the torque wrench range (I believe this is an industry standard). Torque wrenches must be cycled a number of times at the desired torque prior to use to ensure accuracy. So 50 ft-lbs was below the 1/4 value on the 0-250 wrenches. The last few readings in your series I think would be most accurate and I would throw out the first 1,2.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I’ve always heard you should leave a torque wrench on the lowest setting when in storage. You should do a long term test to see if leaving it on the highest setting negatively affects accuracy.
Hmmmmm
Agree
No it won't affect anything. When you rotate the grip to adjust the torque, you turn a nut on a thread that either compresses or releases a big spring inside of the wrench. Springs don't lose their strength if they are stored for long periods of time while compressed.
@@rubiconnn They do actually. The effects vary depending on various factors, but they do.
@@rubiconnn Wrong. Springs can and do lose their properties if left under compression for an extended period of time.
I wanted to see Tekton and Hyper tough for very budget friendly ppl. Ofc they should be tested for calibration only after like 200 uses. I'd also suggest changing the torque like using them at 150ft pressure then 50ft pressure then 25ft (or their lowest capacity), just to check how well they stay calibrated after being used at their maximum torque capacity and then going back to really low capacities
Almost as if the snap on was just warming up on this test. If you rely on a torque wrench every single day, such as in the tire business, this would definitely be a prime purchase. Nicely done.
That is kind of my take away, Snap-On is horrifyingly expensive but if that tool is part of your job that keeps the lights on and pays for the house than its worth buying the best made tool for any portion of a task.
Can we all just appreciate that this guy cycled a bunch of tools a few thousand times just to test the accuracy and longevity for us (the consumer) without asking for nothing !!!
Been watching you a few years now PF and love your content... Thanks for doing what you do for us who cannot afford the £1000 tools !
Love from the UK !
Thanks and you are welcome!
Another great review! I have a snap on 1/2 digital torque wrench. Bought it in 2015. I use it occasionally throughout the year but there’s a month in the year I’m using it all day everyday. In 2019 I sent it in to check calibration and it was still within spec!
Thanks!
Glad to hear that. I got a digital snap-on in 2011. One of only a few snap-on tools I have. But I needed torque-turn capability, so that's why I splurged.
@@tangydiesel1886 yep it’s definitely worth every penny! I never really needed the torque turn until I started working on tractors. I was mainly orchard stuff so I’d be doing pattern weight changes in the shaker head when customers switch from almonds to walnuts.. and then I got hired four years ago at a case dealership and now I’m using the torque turn a bunch too. On top of still working orchard equipment. Torque wrench is putting in work throughout the year that’s for sure!
Also went with the Snap-On digital. Bought mine used off the tool truck. Use it daily. Asked the Snap-on rep about getting it calibrated and was told the screen will pop up a message to re-calibrate it. It had just been rebuilt and calibrated when I purchased it in 2018, I asked about re calibration about 4 months ago. (I do ask yearly).
Tried ten videos on torque wrenches, all just showing how to use it and the different form factors. Your video provides the info needed to actually choose one.
Another quality comparison! If you happen to do a second torque wrench test I wouldn't mind seeing the inexpensive Pittsburgh torque wrenches from HF tested. I'm guessing that's the wrench a lot of weekend warriors own and seeing how it compares to these more expensive wrenches could be a real eye opener
Great test. Being an auto tech for over 30 years, I knew the Snap on was going to be at or near the top. However, the best part of owning the Snap on is the fact that twice a year you can have your tool rep send it in to get recalibrated. That's worth it, knowing you have a repeatable, reliable reading every time.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
And just think, he used Snap-On's entry level torque wrench. The TechAngle have 2% accuracy and ControlTech models have 1% accuracy.
@@HighlandLaddie 4life! 😆
Wow I have that exact same vintage craftsman torque wrench in the garage. I have no idea how old it is but I've been using it for at least a decade now. Couple minutes into the video I started wondering how far off my "vintage" craftsman was and then you pulled one out. Fantastic thank you.
You are welcome!
The most impressive thing to me is how well the 11yr old Craftsman did. I always wonder how often or how much these things need calibration especially having one for probably ~20 years and never taking it anywhere to calibrate it. Seems like you really don't need to have them re-calibrated. I've "tested" mine against newer torque wrenches and it doesn't seem much different so I think is still fine for my uses.
Would also like to see how well transducer-based [electronic "digital"] torque wrenches do against the mechanical ones. With the price range here I thought the $250+ were gonna be electronic but surprisingly not. Also how you went about cycling these *that* many times, is quite something!
Thanks for the video ideas.
I really like how you incorporated tests after a lot of cycles!
One tool I think would be cool to test are cable tracers like the Fluke Pro3000F.
Ya, that and the swing arc is just going the extra mile.
Always appreciate the thoughtful rigorousness that goes into these test. If we were to apply this methodology to most aspects of society, we'd have our problems licked in no time.
The BEST cable tracer I've used is the FLUKE Intellitone Pro 200. It's a game changer. With network UP, finding one cable in a room with multiple racks and lots of 4 inch bundles dumping in becomes child's play. I HATED chasing cables before i found this thing.
I have a Triplett Fox(2) & Hound(3) and it is quite impressive for tracing wires in my home reno
I would love to see this test again with other brands. Husky, Pittsburg, Tekton, AC Delco Digital (they are supposed to be around (+/- 2%), Matco, Mac, & Milwaukee. I have head good things about the new ICON line really glad to see Harbor Freight stepping up they game. really impressed with the Dewalt. I rebuild Classic cars as a hobby and I torque a lot of bolts, so seeing the 1000 click torcher test was impressive. that takes dedication. thanks for all your work. Dewalt and Proto are both made by Stanley Black &Decker tools. so, it doesn't surprise me that they performed about the same. Proto is SBD industrial brand. I have a vintage set of Proto 3/8 Sockets from the 80's they are my go-to sockets when doing any work on old rusty bolts because they fit better than any other sockets i own, and i have less change of rounding off fasteners that sometimes can't be replaced. it is surprising how may specialty fasteners are on some old cars.
Add Gear Wrench to the list!
Yes, because whopping amount of people buy Pittsburgh
Definitely digital would be nice to see!
@@ikstrucking3289 You must be new to this channel...
The Icon tools are great for the price and quality. I buy them at Harbor Freight.
Always appreciate the amount of details and effort you put into making these comparisons. I could not help notice how much flex the measuring device has on the wood surface. I wonder if the tool was bolted down to a more solid/rigid surface if there would have been a different result? Again, thanks for sharing!
Agreed! I love the channel, but I think this test needs to be redone! : (
@project farm Please consider this, as well as including the CDI wrench referenced in one of the comments above!
I thought exactly the same thing, normally can't find anything wrong with PF's amazing test procedures but that flex was screaming at me.
No, this wouldn't affect the amount of torque being applied. The only impact is in how far you have to pull the wrench as the mounting surface is moving with the applied force.
@@RobertHancock1
Metrology much?
Physics much?
Measuring a torque vector in this manner relies on a perpendicular force. If you're pulling on an instrument in an ever increasing angle, the amount of force being applied, versus amount being measured will have an ever increasing delta.
When you're critiquing a precision instrument at this level, these kinds of details matter.
@@mjktrash I actually disagree. The force needed to produce the desired torque would change if the angle of pull changes, but that's not what is being measured here. The wrench should be measuring torque at the fastener which is also what the instrument is measuring. From the reference frame of the wrench, the instrument is stationary even if it's moving with respect to the table.
You provide a valuable / indispensable service to the global professional back-yard engineering community! Thank you from Sydney Australia.
Thanks and you are welcome!
00:28 I love how the Lexivon was calibrated by “DUNG.” 🤣
😂 fills me with great confidence
As always, great test. Some surprises for me in there. I had no idea DeWalt made a decent torque wrench. Good to know SK still makes good stuff.
Thanks!
I had one of these in my cart yesterday - so glad I waited!!! Fantastic content as always. The accuracy and deviation after many uses is most important for me, these are high-use in my aviation shop. I got the Wera
Thanks!
I am an aircraft technician and glad to see snap on performed well, I also have two CDI torque wrenches so its basically the same production. Very informative!
Thanks!
Damn expensive wrenches!!
It would be interesting to see if they deteriorate after being left set to a high torque for a year or two.
I've always been told to slacken them after use, I wonder how much difference it makes.
Definitely slacken them after use. As to how they deteriorate, depends on the wrench and how it is treated and used. The most extreme example I recall was a couple of Norbar wrenches from the 1940's that got brought in for testing. The one from 1943 was still reading pretty good after all this time, but the one from 1944 was a little out, mostly because it was in need of lubrication. Good torque wrenches that are well maintained can last a really long time.
its because the spring inside is compressed when set to a torque value and becomes weakened if left in the compressed position. so now when you read torque you're doing so with a weakened spring and there is less pressure pushing against the click mechanism and it clicks easier giving you lower torque. Edit: oh you said if, i read why.
@@anthony10370 haha, yes, I know the theory :)
On the other hand my car has ten year old springs with many miles and they're not noticeably sagging so who knows how much difference it actually makes in reality! Maybe ten percent in ten years? Who knows.
Would like to see that too. My snap on was advertised as that you don't have to remove tension. So there must be a system inside that only tensions when torque is applied.
Been working for my snap on stuff since the late 90s ,had em calibrated a few times,no biggie.
Where's the $10 Harbor Freight special? Really curious how they perform.
Don't waste your money on the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh torque wrenches. They're laughably inaccurate. I have all 3 of them.... 2 have over-shot by so much that they've damaged bolts and parts.... The in/lb Pittsburgh torque wrench actually cost me a day's pay after it overshot by nearly 10ft/lbs....
Thanks for the suggestion.
Icon is from HF.
I have them and tested aginist all my others... they were the best of the clickers, way beter then the snappoffs.. it's amazing just how many people do not know how to use one corectly. dont always beleave people that dismiss items due to price. I sure wasted a lot of $$ on snappot junk&mac junk. a lot of money.
@@aaronthomas6155 you dont know when your over shooting by 10 pounds....wow. of coarse I dont know what ou do or how offten you do that kind of stuff.
I have been thinking about switching my 'junk kobalt' and getting a snap on for my automotive career. Good to know its actually just as good in the tested respects. Think ill keep it.
@Ben C please stop insulting everyone in comments
@Ben C If you think someone's life is in shambles because they can get the job done with cheap tools instead of wasting money on a brand name tool they don't need, you are probably not very skilled (no offence). Getting the job done with top of the line equipment is easy, but people with real skills can get the job done with just about anything. If someone is starting out in their career, starting off with crap tools will teach them a lot more about their trade than starting out with the best. If you start with the best you never learn why they are so good, and you will be stuck when you eventually have to make do with someone else's tools one day. Stick with the cheapest you can buy until you know *why* you need something more expensive.
Kobalt can frequently be a hit or miss. Some of the hand tools are ok, but I avoid the brand for anything requiring precision. Does Lowe's still sell Kobalt? It seems like their store brand is now exclusively Craftsman.
@Ben C you also realize that name brand tools are rebrands for cornwell, mac and matco. Snap on is proprietary but proprietary is not a synonym for better. It means its a new design that is not a copy. The reason you pay 300 percent markup for name brand is that the REBRANDED tool is under warranty if you are using it enough (and as a mechanic, like myself) you are, you are liable to break it at any time. No tool is perfect, and not one is safe from a person who doesnt maintain it properly. You also pay the markup because a salesman drives a truck around town as a convenient way for you to obtain them, lest you drive somewhere to get them. Snap on doesnt sell at walmart or lowes. They offer service more than tools. When you figure that out, me and the rest of the people in this comment tread will be waiting, Keyboard Warrior.
I bought two craftsman torque wrenches to use professionally about 20 years ago. Both were crap that not only felt cheesey but fell apart and didn't last 6 months. Then Sears wouldn't warranty them. I forget why. I switched to Snapon and they were a joy to use. They just felt like high quality.
Coming back to this video to say thank you, Todd! I went with the ICON torque wrench, I was bleeding my mom's brake fluid, it was my first time using one of these wrenches, and the ICON's accuracy is pretty incredible when I was getting her wheels tightened down to spec, even when re tourqeing the lug nuts just in case everything on the rotors is balanced!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing
I am curious as to how the Pittsburgh $10-20 torque wrenches would fare lol. I bought one a while back used a few times. Another note is the Craftsman in the video is on sale @ lowes for 49.99 currently, which for most non mechanics would be the best bet imo
Yes, was hoping he would’ve covered the Pittsburgh from HF cause that’s about the cheapest one out there
Depends on what the application is. All the specs on my car have 10(units) range. Considering that, my understanding is that Pittsburgh is more than good enough. I've seen it tested before (and even abuse) and the Pittsburgh still did its job within reasonable tolerances. I wouldn't use it on an F1 car but Pittsburgh is good enough for me.
Thanks for the suggestion.
cheapest wrench at $44 surprised me. The $10 harbor freight is very popular.
I'm curious to see how would the tekton brand fare as well. Since is around $40
I would have liked to see a Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench in this test. I own one and I love how easy it is to change torque setting on the little dial. I've been told by more experienced mechanics that it is very accurate, but I haven't tested it.
You did see a Precision wrench tested, Precision makes the torque wrenches sold by Snap-On. I've got the Precision split beam, it is a great tool.
When your building an engine and your torquing head bolts what’s most important is the correct sequence. You always repeat the sequence at least once or twice so they will all probably be slightly higher then spec but evenly matched. You also should break them lose in reverse order. This is how I was taught and watched my father do building race engines over 40 years.
Thanks for the feedback.
I always snug mine hand tight at first, then do half torque the first time around, then the final spec the second time around.
Yeah I recently learned the hardway doing the top end on my dodge.
Always. Follow. Sequence.
I am a work from home coder so I never use any of the tools you have on your show, but I still love watching these reviews.
Thanks for watching!
Great testing as always. I do however wonder if the amount of flex in the table has an impact on accuracy.
NA, just increases the force to reach that clamping pressure.
Love the videos. been watching for years. Normally you're very good with your testing methodology, but I'm thinking it would be interesting to redo this test with the tester bolted to something that doesn't flex the way we can see the bench flexing. Since force is a vector, as the bench is flexing, some of that force is going to be transferred in directions that isn't around the rotational axis. Considering the deviations are so small, I suspect the amount of bench flex we are seeing could be responsible for a lot of that.
That sounds like a flawed conclusion
As I notice the wood flexing and the tests are pretty much unreasonable if the bench isn't really worth testing on. (Why?) And two different meters.... how reliable is the meter itself. I would like to know how thinks this is a pure interest testing based towards sponsorship? His testing is based on one tool to measure and bolted down to a wood? Why? I don't remember EVER needing to torque anything to wood! So why be it placed in such?
@@williamcook2499 He doesn't allow for sponsors, so I your comment is factless.
Excellent video, as always. Thanks for sharing. I wish the cheaper ~$20 Harbor freight were also included in this test. Tests close to maximum and minimum range would also reflect on quality of the wrench.
Thanks! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
I also use a cheapo 1/2" fot lug nuts and such. Would be good to see how those perform.
@@sherlockbonez ,Any torque wrench will work for the type of work DIY's are doing on their car. Cars ain't NASA level technology and the condition of the threads/bolt/nut will make way more difference than using a cheap or expensive torque wrench. There a YT-video called "Applied Bolting - Torque isn't Tension" that should change peoples focus when they try to torque something with some precision. It will also tell why modern torque spec often is degrees instead of a measured torque number.
My 1/2" HF was fine, but the 3/8s wouldn't click, I ruined two really nice magnetic oil drain plugs that way. Threw that thing in the trash, never again. Those plugs cost more than the wrenches, could have ruined the pan too
@@thirteen12
Well, actually happened to me too with one of them (don't remember if it was 3/8" or 1/2") which was otherwise fairly accurate. I am usually very careful so realised early on that it is taking more torque than it should to click. Also I usually tighten in steps... like 15ft-lbs first then 22 for the bolt that requires 22ft-lbs. They have otherwise performed very well for me so far. HF replaced the bad one free no questions.
Having said that, consider yourself lucky that it was the bolt not pan which would be more painful.
I have 6 of the $10 HF ones that I use quite often, and one Kobolt for higher torque up to 250 lbs-ft