Thank you for citing a standard, in this case the NEC, and explaining why certain things are done in certain ways. Winging it with electrical systems can lead to unexpected/unfortunate outcomes. Standards exist to save lives.
Thank you. Purchased a new SSC and 32A breaker for our boat and subsequently realized that the breaker wiring could be “omni directional”. Now I’m good to go. Nicely done video.
Wonderful! Nigh on perfect. Even I can understand this!!! Really annoying when someone makes a statement but never explains why??? Thankyou for your concise manner!
I have found your videos just in time. Im installing solar on my yacht, just as on your camper /RV. Your videos are very educational. I now can proceed with my installation. Dont worry I have an electrician friend helping me..
Leaned a lot from all your videos. Thanks. One tip I learned though (looks like you may have also, but omitted it in the video), once you cut and have run the wires into the box, remove the breaker for easier access to install the wires in the breaker. Then, you can push the wires back out and reinstall the breaker. 👍
LOL, that DC-DC charger just wasn't going to let you connect it instead of the MPPT charge controller! Love it. While the NEC doesn't _technically_ apply to off-grid RV installations, they are, nonetheless best practices. As such, I follow code as much as possible and practical. This is to say that not everyone does (follow code, that is). I just finished up redoing what what supposed to have been a completed off-grid solar system in a 1969 Airstream renovation. The original work was performed by an electrical engineer. When I got involved, there was one 100V/50A MPPT charge controller for the permanent roof-mount array *and* an auxiliary portable array! A 1-1+2-2 battery switch, rated for 32V max, was installed to connect/disconnect arrays. The 3S 100W panels produced ~65V nominal @ ~6A. This was all connected with 4AWG wire! What a mess. To correct this, I installed a second, smaller MPPT SCC for the portable PV array. I eliminated the battery selector switch, and installed a non-polarized, dual pole, DC breaker in an enclosure. I did the same between the roof-mount PV array and the first MPPT SCC. I also transitioned the wire down from 4AWG to 10AWG. Not only is the 10AWG more than adequate for the current, but the silicone insulation made cable management so much easier. A 30A shore power input was also previously installed...with zero protection between it and a MultiPlus worth well over $2K! I installed a non-polarized, dual pole, AC breaker on this line, as well, as one can never be certain what's coming off the post in many campgrounds. Unbeknownst to me, my client then took the trailer to the largest solar dealer in Atlanta. He paid them $500 to check my work. They assured him that everything was correct. However, they also told him that it was "overkill." What! All I can say is, "Buyer beware." Someone also told my client that the PV array must be grounded to the trailer chassis. Nothing could be further from correct. One should only ever consider grounding the frames of the PV array. Never the conductors! That's what the PV isolation breaker highlighted in this video is for! As always, Nate, great work!
Haha! Yeah... totally did the Orion DC DC on purpose. Okay, maybe not, rofl! I didn't notice until I was doing my final viewing after editing , exporting, and uploading but before the video went public. I'm surprised it took 2000+ views before somebody noticed; so, good job paying attention!
Just started my journey on the campervan trail and I know nothing about electricity and wiring and all this and I apparently said something that surprised my grandpa that is an old naval electrical engineer so I must be learning something. Thanks for the great vids can't wait to learn more. Doing a box truck conversion on an old 1974 dodge 3/4 ton, my very first conversion project! So exciting
Awesome video. I'm building an RV and was just at the stage of adding the solar disconnect. Learned a LOT with this and saved me a lot of hassle down the road, and possibly a disaster as well as I was about to use one of the switches you advised to never use here.
Thank you for pointing out and explaining the NEC code for this. I'm thinking my combiner box already meets this, but since those are outside I'm going to install a box similar to what you demonstrated with right next to my inverter for convenience. I'm also going to put a label regarding the NEC code on it as a reminder. Your videos are all so clear and purposeful, thank you.
Excellent video. Things are covered that I have asked about and never really got good answers although most you think you know why (it is good to have someone backup your theories, lol). Some of my thoughts/questions that he answered: why you cannot use the 48 volt DC switches, why you cannot use an AC switch on DC, why you should use 2 wires instead of the usual 1 on a DC switch, etc.
Hello Nate, Thanks for making all of these videos! The information is extremely helpful! Just wondering if you were ever considered making some videos for a setup much less complicated and on a smaller scale. Like an over-landing vehicle (Jeep) with a dual battery setup under the hood and 200W solar just to power a small propane heater and fridge? Something small enough that wouldn't require an inverter maybe? Thanks again and love the videos!
Nate, I've been watching your videos for a while now. Your video production and associated blogs are of the highest quality and so professional, very impressive. Thanks so much for all the information you share. You have a great teaching style that seems to come so naturally to you. I don't personally build van's or campers but have used your helpful tutorials to build a solar shed and an off grid system for my Ham radio shack/office. 73 de W1SMM
Hi, i have a 3500w 24v inverter with 2 batteries ( 200amp each) my dc breaker is SPV-125 C80 (500v) and 6000 A i need to add 4 extra batteries of 200 amp each so the total is 6 , do i need to change my breaker to a bigger one or not? Thank you in advance
Just came to your channel. This stuff is golden! What an education. I love that you are covering things is such a step by step manner and that you are giving the reasons for the safety regs. Thank you.
I understand you need the breaker for a home system that is connected to the grid, ( I have a grid tie system) but I have not heard of having to follow code on a camper or off grid cabin. I put one in on the system that I installed on my toy hauler, but it was just for my own safety so I can disconnect it when I want to work on it
Ultimately, nobody is going to be checking our work on a camper. There are no inspectors for this. My goal is to teach the safest way I possibly can for this stuff and if people want to opt-out of particular things that they feel not important.. that's their prerogative.
Did this get wired backwards on the MPPT side? I bought the same one from link and the symbol/diagram next to identifier show + and - reversing top to bottom.
Seen quite a few of your video’s, and you put so much detail into a easy to understand presentation, and such a big help as I slowly build my camper electric’s,you do a awesome job thanks steve 👌
Wow! Glad I saw this. I am building to your diagram from before you added this to your designs. THANK YOU for your diligence with code requiements!!!!!!!!
Hi. According to your explanation: 63amps dc breaker >250v fits all solar systems between pv and solar inverter. What about the amp size of dc circuit breaker between the inverter and the batteries? And the ac circuit breaker between in and out ac current?
Very timely! I actually just asked a question on one of your wiring diagram blog posts (although I couldn't get the question to actually post) a couple days ago wondering why the ampacity rating was so high on the breaker. Now I have my answer. Good stuff.
Haha, I saw that and didn't respond because I knew this video was coming out within a few days. Glad you found it! (I'll probably still answer, but with a link to this video when I sit down and answer blog post comments.)
I built out my electrical system according to the custom design you created for me and it works fantastic. I'm finally adding a 120W suitcase solar panel and the plan doesn't show a DC disconnect switch. Do I need one if I only plan to occasionally connect the panel to the MPPT charge controller? The disconnect would be the MC4 connectors between panel and charger controller.
I'd say it's fine without for portable panels. You can 'turn the panels off' by flipping them over face-down and then when you disconnect both MC4 connectors; that is effectively disconnecting both the positive and negative conductors.
Hi Nate, very helpful video as usual. Most other video simply recommend one of the other breakers that you suggested not be used due to voltage issues which I appreciate. One question I had was where do you get that black backer board for install? I dont see it on your parts list. Thanks
I purchased two of these breakers from your link a while back. My plan was to use the second one in the same enclosure as a shut off for my Orion dc to dc charger. I was hoping that the 63 amp rating would offer redundant over current protection for my 6 awg cable coming from the van bus bar under the drivers seat. Is this an ok application for the breaker?
I have a 30a mppt and 2 100w panels. I may eventually get another 100w panel. From my research, I should moutn them in series to get the most power. Should I get a 30a or 40a breaker?
I have one question…. I have my tiny little teardrop camper wired up exactly the way you described! I’m about to rewire things, make a cleaner, tighter install. I’ve seen others install the solar disconnect without putting it into the waterproof box that you used. In my install I really don’t have very much space. Can I get away without using the water proof box?
Hi Nate, this is a great video like so many of yours. We live in Australia and I have a question, our caravan has a 1000 watts of solar on the roof and is connected to a Victron 250/70 mmpt solar controller. Our system hasn’t been installed with a solar disconnect, what size would you suggest. Regards Brian
I purchased this breaker box and 63 amp breaker from the product list on from your video. I see that the box fits two breakers. Is there a reason that I should not use a second identical breaker for the shut off and protection for my Orion dc to dc charger? 8 Awg for panel 6 Awg for Orion are the cable sizes I’m using. Thank you for all you do
lol, true. I usually use a heat gun when I'm testing a system and purposefully trying to drain the batteries a bit. I think I'm going to get one of the Dewalt cordless heat guns soon for general usage: amzn.to/3faSaBl
Thanks for this. I was able to do this following your link for parts and watching your video. And I have to say it works!!! But I have a question!? This disconnects power from the solar array. So that you can work safely on your unit. But isn't there still power of the battery?? Thats a safety concern as well?? I dont know anything abt electric still learning tks. I guess when you shut of power, w the disconnect it should be followed with disconnecting the battery as well.? For total safety
All of my systems at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams do indeed have a switch at the battery that would need to be turned off before anything else.
Just a little FYI, the DIN rail circuit breaker box you link to is currently unavailable. However, other sellers are selling the same box. Your videos are a great help to me. I'm working on putting together a 24V system, I don't know what the final size will be yet. I'm buying a few parts for it each month, as my finances are rather limited.
I've switched my recommendation away from this breaker and box largely because nobody on Amazon could keep them in stock. We now stock an actual DC isolation switch in our store. Check the pinned comment.
Hi, this is such a great video! I’m wanting to make a quick PV disconnect inline switch for a tiny, camping DIY solar generator / power box using a 12v Renogy 10A solar controller, connect to a 12 watt .5A solar panel and a 7Ah NPP SLA battery. It’s purpose it so power small devices for a tent. There are situations where it would be helpful to shut down the solar panel current coming to the controller while working on the battery or removing the battery. The controller instructions however say not unplug the panel before the battery so I’m guessing a regular inline SAE switch cable is not advised? If so, do you have any smaller current 12v switches you can recommend? Are any of the ones you pointed to in this video (that do not work for larger, gov regulated systems) good for my set up? Thanks so much!
So if I wanted the breaker to act in the same way as a fuse would I choose a breaker slightly bigger than the short circuit amperage of my single panel. If that makes sense. Excellent video by the way.
Why is the disconnect amps set at "greater than 30"? Have a 30 amp controller which is sized for a system a bit bigger than mine. Why do I need more than a 30 amp disconnect? Great stuff!
Excellent ! One thing I don't understand and I know there is always a reason for why things are made the way they are. Why do the incoming wires positive and negative need to be disconnected simultaneously ?
In short: if the positive and negative wires upstream of the switch rub together and create a direct short, the negative wire could be carrying voltage even if the positive wire was disconnected. I'll let you google the long answer. It's in some white papers out there somewhere but I'll let you chase that rabbit on your own.
Thanks for the video! I’m wondering, hypothetically if a charge controller with an on/off switch would accomplish the same objective as a breaker?thank you
From the video (I only watched once) it seems the breaker is just a two pole switch in all practical purposes. Why not just use a two pole Anderson type plug?
This is a sweet video as always. Nice clean install too. For my trailer, however, my 2x panels in series will plug into an SAE input jack on the outside of the rig so assume I am ok just pulling the panel cable connection from there.
Nate Jim Partlow here. I purchased the DC solar disconnect switch for my solar install . I also see that you have used a solar disconnect breaker and din rail. Which is best or are both needed? In all your wiring diagrams you use one or the other, is it just a change in product and serves the same purpose. Thanks
Hi there. I wired this same breaker between my panels and controller. Are they ever defective? I now show volts coming in but no amps. All readings were good before I added the same breaker. Yes panel wires come in the top, and bottom wires go to controller….same polarity.
Hey how are you doing? First of all, I like to see how you explain all your videos . I'm starting been interesting in solar panel systems & I built one in my house as a fun time. Now, I bought a solar controller similar to a Panda one or something like that; & I have noticed that wattages/amps are fluctuating too much. My system is built with: 4 panels of 100ah 12v in series/parallel making 24v system, solar controller 60amps, inverter 3500w, now I'm using 4awg wires for batteries, 10awg solar controller/panels, 8awg controller/batteries, also, & maybe this is the reason of fluctuating 4 car batteries. Could you give some tips about why wattages/amps are fluctuating too much.? thanks in advance.
Hey, Wilfredo Hernandez! I appreciate you taking the time to ask your question, but unfortunately, I don't have enough info about your specific question to provide an accurate answer, but here is a playlist that, if you watch all of the videos start-to-finish (and take notes 😉), you'll have a REALLY good idea of how to design a solar array which may help with your troubleshooting: th-cam.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/w-d-xo.html
Nice video and clean installation. However, one note, a breaker is not between the panels and the controller as solar panels are self limiting. If your wires are properly sized you will have no problem. You should definitely have an appropriate switch to disconnect the panels safely. Of course the breaker can be used for this but it is an unnecessary waste of money.
I'm about to add solar disconnect breakers to my travel trailer, I have roof mounted panels as well as a thru wall plug for portable. I know I will add the disconnect between panels and controller for the roof mounted, but I also want to add one for the portable circuit. My portable has the controller attached to the array. Do I need to move that controller to between the battery and the disconnect or is it OK to leave the controller where it is (panel>controller>thru wall plug>disconnect>battery) I was thinking in this configuration the thru wall plug become an alternate 12V source with the disconnect to turn it off.
If it hasn't been asked already, can this switch be used to disconnect the panels while they are receiving full sun and are under load? I'm thinking of a rare event where an BMS fault occurs abd gives a warning of an imminent shutdown. Im not 100% sure it would be necessary to try and immediately disconnect the panels in such a situation though?
Hi Nate, i ordered the breaker you recommended in your link, but the wireing diagram on the front of it says black red on top and red black on the bottom, in the video you wired the breaker black red on top and black red on the bottom..can you please tell me the correct wiring for the breaker you recommended in your link
Hi, I will be installing 8 Hanes Q. duo L- G8.3, 425w solar panels and I am confused what kind of PV array disconnect with DCbreakers. Thanks for your help.
Can I use 2 single pole 10amp DC breakers side by side coming from just a single 100 watt solar panel, then to 10amp controller just for using as switches to disconnect + and - from solar panels......Or just put the breaker on the positive from solar panel. Cheers, great video's! Jason.
Nate, I didn't find that the disconnector is UL listed. My permit says that all equipment must be UL listed. I cannot find a mini disconnector that UL listed. Question - can I use the Anderson connector that rated higher than my PV system and UL listed?
Have you seen the double pole DC breakers were the wire polarity at the top is opposite at the bottom of the breaker they have + & - marked on each end and are aligned opposite ?
Great vid as usual. and I already bought the box and breaker, but...should you, or can you also have an inline fuse/breaker on a single 400 watt solar panel?
Makes perfect sense, thanks! Question about the reset breakers you show at 5:37 though, the middle breaker shown is (I believe) an audio line breaker? I've been told these are totally unsuitable for use as a breaker for any constant DC power load. Is this correct? If so, what makes them unsuitable?
Yeah, I don't recommend those in any electrical system because there isn't a reputable manufacturer that makes that type of breaker (maybe there is a good reason for that?). Blue Sea, Cooper, Eaton, Bussman, Littelfuse are a few of the overcurrent protection manufacturers I'm looking at when purchasing and recommending overcurrent protection.
Thanks @@EXPLORISTlife , that was close as I was about to put a bunch of these breakers (bimetallic I think they are called?) in my van. Concerning as I deliberately sought them out as they are the type used by the auto electrician who originally put my inverter in. Anyway, think I'll perhaps look at just an ANL fuse for the battery and either the Bussman or Blue Sea 187 series breaker for my inverter and perhaps just a basic blade fuse box for everything else (nothing above 40A).
I switched to that double pole last summer because you mentioned it in another video. Thanks for the explanation as to why. It sounds like that was an update in the 2020 code so there's probably lots of incorrectly wired PV systems on RVs. I had the Blue sea systems circuit breaker and my series/parallel was around 44v so I guess it was ok but I had tunnel vision looking at the amperage and not the max voltage. Thanks for explaining this in detail, great job and thank you 😁👍
Do you have a video where you do this with multiple charge controllers? NOT the video of wiring multiple charge controllers to the Victron Lynx Distributer, but to this point. Or do you just use 2 entry glands and 2 of these disconnects?
Our inverter has 2 mppt input each can take 11A . but our PV Panel produces 17.33A. Can we use Y connector to divide current and input 8.665A per mppt input?
I’ve ordered my disconnect and will be installing in the near future. Thanks so much for all your videos! I do have a question…when the disconnect is switched off, and the PV panels are active, ie generating voltage, is there any heat build-up to be concerned with?
I have a solar generator in my house that will be hooked to three 400 watt solar panels wired in series. Together the three panels will generate 150 volts DC at 9 amps. It looks like the breakers you are using will work with this setup. Are there any similar breakers that can be used outside. I would prefer to mount the breakers at the panels on my solar ground mount rather than inside the house.
Excellent info you have provided! Would it be possible to combine the breaker shutoff feature and also be able to satisfy the fuse requirements on that side of the controller? Say one needed a 30amp fuse on the positive side between the controller and panels, couldn't the shutoff breaker be rated at 30amp, allowing the breaker to do a dual duty? An older video but perhaps someone out there has a thought on this...thx
Other than "that's what the NEC code requires", is there a practical reason to use a switch that simultaneously disconnects the positive and negative leads from the solar panel? I'm scratching my head, trying to think of something bad that could happen by switching just the positive lead, but I can't can't come up with anything.
Hello Nate great videos. I am looking for the proper diagram hoping you can point me to. I am wiring 800watts of solar, 3000watt inverter. I removed the generator from my Chinook RV hoping to replace this system. The camper has 30 amp shore power. Can I just use the existing switch wires from the old generator? Do I need a on/off switch? Thank you
Is there a breaker panel that takes and sends out three pairs of md4 connectors for multiple panel groups connecting to the new Victron smart solar 150/85 or bigger controllers...I'd rather use dedicated cables for each group and not seeing why I don't stick with the BogueRV prepared cables... new to all things solar though.
One question, you said it is a regulation to have a solar breaker, so why does Jayco and multiple more caravan builders don’t install it? All that it is on the incoming positive wire is a 30a fuse.
Hi Nate Loving your videos - thanks. I have a question about wiring the switch up. I saw a video saying that you have the have the pos and neg on certain sides otherwise the unit bursts in to flames when turned off? Obviously + to + and - to -, but does it matter which side of the unit is used? mine has a large N on one of the terminals on the right hand side so guess that would be the neg connection, but does it really matter if i run the positive down the right hand side of the switch or the left hand side of the switch?? Hope that makes sense? many thanks
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
Nate….I built your exact system with the disconnect in this video. On my latest camping trip the disconnect tripped! Twice! Both at the height of sun for the day. I try to reset it and it would immediately trip. I left it off for 20 minutes or so and it reset. Why would the disconnect trip? I have 1200 watts of solar (6-200 watters) that are wired series-parallel.
Interesting. Is it the 63A breaker? Could always be a faulty breaker, I suppose. It's pretty rare for that breaker to trip. Are the connections nice and solid?
Great videos. Looks like some of the product links in the blog are dead? Anyhow what do you think of the UL rated dc/solar isolator switches? Usually 4 pole for 1 or 2 strings and rated for 700 or more volts, 32 amps?
@ Awesome. Thanks. I see you offer a nice 1000v rated PV isolator switch along with a double pole breaker in a nice enclosure as two options for PV disconnect. Other than the switch being more expensive, do you prefer one over the other?
Would I ever need to disconnect my solar panels from the controller in case of an emergency? If so, how would I do that? Use a battery disconnect switch? Or...maybe I wouldn't ever have to worry about that?
Very informative video, grateful your channel exists. Conscious of the space for electrics in my van (but of course safety comes first) - if I take two of those 48V max square breakers (one for the pos wire and one for the neg wire coming from one 24V PV) and position them side by side, would this have the same effect as a dim rail breaker and box? Thanks
Ah I just noticed that although there are two pairs of wires to be fed into the breaker there is only one switch to flip that turns both off. Very helpful, thank you
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You explain things perfectly and your speed of talking/explaining is outstanding! I will owe you for a big thanks when I finish my solar project!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for citing a standard, in this case the NEC, and explaining why certain things are done in certain ways. Winging it with electrical systems can lead to unexpected/unfortunate outcomes. Standards exist to save lives.
Thank you. Purchased a new SSC and 32A breaker for our boat and subsequently realized that the breaker wiring could be “omni directional”. Now I’m good to go. Nicely done video.
Thank goodness this channel exists! Thank you!!!!
Wonderful! Nigh on perfect. Even I can understand this!!! Really annoying when someone makes a statement but never explains why??? Thankyou for your concise
manner!
I have found your videos just in time.
Im installing solar on my yacht, just as on your camper /RV.
Your videos are very educational. I now can proceed with my installation.
Dont worry I have an electrician friend helping me..
Leaned a lot from all your videos. Thanks. One tip I learned though (looks like you may have also, but omitted it in the video), once you cut and have run the wires into the box, remove the breaker for easier access to install the wires in the breaker. Then, you can push the wires back out and reinstall the breaker. 👍
LOL, that DC-DC charger just wasn't going to let you connect it instead of the MPPT charge controller! Love it.
While the NEC doesn't _technically_ apply to off-grid RV installations, they are, nonetheless best practices. As such, I follow code as much as possible and practical.
This is to say that not everyone does (follow code, that is). I just finished up redoing what what supposed to have been a completed off-grid solar system in a 1969 Airstream renovation. The original work was performed by an electrical engineer. When I got involved, there was one 100V/50A MPPT charge controller for the permanent roof-mount array *and* an auxiliary portable array! A 1-1+2-2 battery switch, rated for 32V max, was installed to connect/disconnect arrays. The 3S 100W panels produced ~65V nominal @ ~6A. This was all connected with 4AWG wire! What a mess.
To correct this, I installed a second, smaller MPPT SCC for the portable PV array. I eliminated the battery selector switch, and installed a non-polarized, dual pole, DC breaker in an enclosure. I did the same between the roof-mount PV array and the first MPPT SCC. I also transitioned the wire down from 4AWG to 10AWG. Not only is the 10AWG more than adequate for the current, but the silicone insulation made cable management so much easier.
A 30A shore power input was also previously installed...with zero protection between it and a MultiPlus worth well over $2K! I installed a non-polarized, dual pole, AC breaker on this line, as well, as one can never be certain what's coming off the post in many campgrounds.
Unbeknownst to me, my client then took the trailer to the largest solar dealer in Atlanta. He paid them $500 to check my work. They assured him that everything was correct. However, they also told him that it was "overkill." What! All I can say is, "Buyer beware."
Someone also told my client that the PV array must be grounded to the trailer chassis. Nothing could be further from correct. One should only ever consider grounding the frames of the PV array. Never the conductors! That's what the PV isolation breaker highlighted in this video is for!
As always, Nate, great work!
Haha! Yeah... totally did the Orion DC DC on purpose. Okay, maybe not, rofl! I didn't notice until I was doing my final viewing after editing , exporting, and uploading but before the video went public. I'm surprised it took 2000+ views before somebody noticed; so, good job paying attention!
@@EXPLORISTlife Star pupils!
Just started my journey on the campervan trail and I know nothing about electricity and wiring and all this and I apparently said something that surprised my grandpa that is an old naval electrical engineer so I must be learning something. Thanks for the great vids can't wait to learn more. Doing a box truck conversion on an old 1974 dodge 3/4 ton, my very first conversion project! So exciting
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
You are such an excellent teacher. So step by step logical instructions.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. I'm building an RV and was just at the stage of adding the solar disconnect. Learned a LOT with this and saved me a lot of hassle down the road, and possibly a disaster as well as I was about to use one of the switches you advised to never use here.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
legend bro - setting up solar at my shop cos I dont have a fixed building for city power - your vids are superbly helpful!
Thank you for pointing out and explaining the NEC code for this. I'm thinking my combiner box already meets this, but since those are outside I'm going to install a box similar to what you demonstrated with right next to my inverter for convenience. I'm also going to put a label regarding the NEC code on it as a reminder. Your videos are all so clear and purposeful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. Things are covered that I have asked about and never really got good answers although most you think you know why (it is good to have someone backup your theories, lol).
Some of my thoughts/questions that he answered: why you cannot use the 48 volt DC switches, why you cannot use an AC switch on DC, why you should use 2 wires instead of the usual 1 on a DC switch, etc.
Thank you. Helped me understand the primary purpose of the circuit breaker: Switch off power from the panels.
Hello Nate, Thanks for making all of these videos! The information is extremely helpful! Just wondering if you were ever considered making some videos for a setup much less complicated and on a smaller scale. Like an over-landing vehicle (Jeep) with a dual battery setup under the hood and 200W solar just to power a small propane heater and fridge? Something small enough that wouldn't require an inverter maybe? Thanks again and love the videos!
Excellent, I almost purchased 30 amp breakers. Thanks!
Thanks for being clear , because it’s confusing.
Better to be simple in this subject 👍👍
I love your channel.Ican go back and watch these videos multiple times if I need to, along with all the other ones.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Another awesome, clear, helpful and right on the money video. Thank you. YOU ARE THE MAN!
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Got a package from y'all today awesome stuff
Nate, I've been watching your videos for a while now. Your video production and associated blogs are of the highest quality and so professional, very impressive. Thanks so much for all the information you share. You have a great teaching style that seems to come so naturally to you. I don't personally build van's or campers but have used your helpful tutorials to build a solar shed and an off grid system for my Ham radio shack/office. 73 de W1SMM
Nice! Sounds like an awesome project! Thanks for watching!
Hi, i have a 3500w 24v inverter with 2 batteries ( 200amp each) my dc breaker is SPV-125 C80 (500v) and 6000 A i need to add 4 extra batteries of 200 amp each so the total is 6 , do i need to change my breaker to a bigger one or not? Thank you in advance
Just came to your channel. This stuff is golden! What an education. I love that you are covering things is such a step by step manner and that you are giving the reasons for the safety regs. Thank you.
I understand you need the breaker for a home system that is connected to the grid, ( I have a grid tie system) but I have not heard of having to follow code on a camper or off grid cabin. I put one in on the system that I installed on my toy hauler, but it was just for my own safety so I can disconnect it when I want to work on it
Ultimately, nobody is going to be checking our work on a camper. There are no inspectors for this. My goal is to teach the safest way I possibly can for this stuff and if people want to opt-out of particular things that they feel not important.. that's their prerogative.
Perfect timing! My dual pole disconnect arrived last week and I will be installing it this coming week... This helps a lot! Thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Did this get wired backwards on the MPPT side? I bought the same one from link and the symbol/diagram next to identifier show + and - reversing top to bottom.
Seen quite a few of your video’s, and you put so much detail into a easy to understand presentation, and such a big help as I slowly build my camper electric’s,you do a awesome job thanks steve 👌
Thanks Teacher!!!! All your videos are super helpful! I am learning slowly but surely! )))
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
I like that cable duct, very flexible for wire entry
Wow! Glad I saw this. I am building to your diagram from before you added this to your designs. THANK YOU for your diligence with code requiements!!!!!!!!
Hi. According to your explanation: 63amps dc breaker >250v fits all solar systems between pv and solar inverter. What about the amp size of dc circuit breaker between the inverter and the batteries? And the ac circuit breaker between in and out ac current?
Very timely! I actually just asked a question on one of your wiring diagram blog posts (although I couldn't get the question to actually post) a couple days ago wondering why the ampacity rating was so high on the breaker. Now I have my answer. Good stuff.
Haha, I saw that and didn't respond because I knew this video was coming out within a few days. Glad you found it! (I'll probably still answer, but with a link to this video when I sit down and answer blog post comments.)
awesome video. Extremely helpful! I have a 90v 40a array and this really help me
Great information. Very direct. Good job. Thank you.
I built out my electrical system according to the custom design you created for me and it works fantastic. I'm finally adding a 120W suitcase solar panel and the plan doesn't show a DC disconnect switch. Do I need one if I only plan to occasionally connect the panel to the MPPT charge controller? The disconnect would be the MC4 connectors between panel and charger controller.
I'd say it's fine without for portable panels. You can 'turn the panels off' by flipping them over face-down and then when you disconnect both MC4 connectors; that is effectively disconnecting both the positive and negative conductors.
... great tips as always ... and in 0.75-speed an old german guy can follow along as well ... ;-)
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Hi Nate, very helpful video as usual. Most other video simply recommend one of the other breakers that you suggested not be used due to voltage issues which I appreciate. One question I had was where do you get that black backer board for install? I dont see it on your parts list. Thanks
I purchased two of these breakers from your link a while back. My plan was to use the second one in the same enclosure as a shut off for my Orion dc to dc charger. I was hoping that the 63 amp rating would offer redundant over current protection for my 6 awg cable coming from the van bus bar under the drivers seat. Is this an ok application for the breaker?
I have a 30a mppt and 2 100w panels. I may eventually get another 100w panel. From my research, I should moutn them in series to get the most power. Should I get a 30a or 40a breaker?
I have one question…. I have my tiny little teardrop camper wired up exactly the way you described! I’m about to rewire things, make a cleaner, tighter install. I’ve seen others install the solar disconnect without putting it into the waterproof box that you used. In my install I really don’t have very much space. Can I get away without using the water proof box?
Hi Nate, this is a great video like so many of yours. We live in Australia and I have a question, our caravan has a 1000 watts of solar on the roof and is connected to a Victron 250/70 mmpt solar controller. Our system hasn’t been installed with a solar disconnect, what size would you suggest. Regards Brian
I purchased this breaker box and 63 amp breaker from the product list on from your video. I see that the box fits two breakers. Is there a reason that I should not use a second identical breaker for the shut off and protection for my Orion dc to dc charger? 8 Awg for panel 6 Awg for Orion are the cable sizes I’m using. Thank you for all you do
My problem is my heat gun needs a hell of a big solar array to run 😂 Great channel and video!
lol, true. I usually use a heat gun when I'm testing a system and purposefully trying to drain the batteries a bit. I think I'm going to get one of the Dewalt cordless heat guns soon for general usage: amzn.to/3faSaBl
Very helpful, I installed this in my new system
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Nato, watched the fourth time just to make sure.
Brilliant explanation!
Thank you!👍
Thanks for this. I was able to do this following your link for parts and watching your video. And I have to say it works!!! But I have a question!? This disconnects power from the solar array. So that you can work safely on your unit. But isn't there still power of the battery?? Thats a safety concern as well?? I dont know anything abt electric still learning tks. I guess when you shut of power, w the disconnect it should be followed with disconnecting the battery as well.? For total safety
All of my systems at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams do indeed have a switch at the battery that would need to be turned off before anything else.
Just a little FYI, the DIN rail circuit breaker box you link to is currently unavailable. However, other sellers are selling the same box.
Your videos are a great help to me. I'm working on putting together a 24V system, I don't know what the final size will be yet. I'm buying a few parts for it each month, as my finances are rather limited.
I've switched my recommendation away from this breaker and box largely because nobody on Amazon could keep them in stock. We now stock an actual DC isolation switch in our store. Check the pinned comment.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks, I'll do that.
Hi, this is such a great video! I’m wanting to make a quick PV disconnect inline switch for a tiny, camping DIY solar generator / power box using a 12v Renogy 10A solar controller, connect to a 12 watt .5A solar panel and a 7Ah NPP SLA battery. It’s purpose it so power small devices for a tent. There are situations where it would be helpful to shut down the solar panel current coming to the controller while working on the battery or removing the battery. The controller instructions however say not unplug the panel before the battery so I’m guessing a regular inline SAE switch cable is not advised? If so, do you have any smaller current 12v switches you can recommend? Are any of the ones you pointed to in this video (that do not work for larger, gov regulated systems) good for my set up? Thanks so much!
Thank you , very good demonstration.
So if I wanted the breaker to act in the same way as a fuse would I choose a breaker slightly bigger than the short circuit amperage of my single panel. If that makes sense. Excellent video by the way.
Why is the disconnect amps set at "greater than 30"? Have a 30 amp controller which is sized for a system a bit bigger than mine. Why do I need more than a 30 amp disconnect? Great stuff!
That is explained in the 2nd half of the video. 👍
Question. Can I use 10 awg PV wire for other power uses inside the RV, as I've a lot of it left over. Thanks for any help.
GREAT INFO..... COULD YOU USE THE SAME BREAKER FOR disconnecting th batteries bank from midnite classic charge controller ?
Excellent ! One thing I don't understand and I know there is always a reason for why things are made the way they are. Why do the incoming wires positive and negative need to be disconnected simultaneously ?
In short: if the positive and negative wires upstream of the switch rub together and create a direct short, the negative wire could be carrying voltage even if the positive wire was disconnected. I'll let you google the long answer. It's in some white papers out there somewhere but I'll let you chase that rabbit on your own.
Thanks for the video! I’m wondering, hypothetically if a charge controller with an on/off switch would accomplish the same objective as a breaker?thank you
I don’t really like dealing in hypotheticals. I’m more of an action-based-solutions kind of guy.
From the video (I only watched once) it seems the breaker is just a two pole switch in all practical purposes. Why not just use a two pole Anderson type plug?
This is a sweet video as always. Nice clean install too. For my trailer, however, my 2x panels in series will plug into an SAE input jack on the outside of the rig so assume I am ok just pulling the panel cable connection from there.
Maybe? Code doesn't say anything about that, but that would indeed disconnect both conductors at the same time.
Nate Jim Partlow here. I purchased the DC solar disconnect switch for my solar install . I also see that you have used a solar disconnect breaker and din rail. Which is best or are both needed? In all your wiring diagrams you use one or the other, is it just a change in product and serves the same purpose. Thanks
Hi there. I wired this same breaker between my panels and controller. Are they ever defective? I now show volts coming in but no amps. All readings were good before I added the same breaker.
Yes panel wires come in the top, and bottom wires go to controller….same polarity.
Hey how are you doing? First of all, I like to see how you explain all your videos . I'm starting been interesting in solar panel systems & I built one in my house as a fun time. Now, I bought a solar controller similar to a Panda one or something like that; & I have noticed that wattages/amps are fluctuating too much. My system is built with: 4 panels of 100ah 12v in series/parallel making 24v system, solar controller 60amps, inverter 3500w, now I'm using 4awg wires for batteries, 10awg solar controller/panels, 8awg controller/batteries, also, & maybe this is the reason of fluctuating 4 car batteries. Could you give some tips about why wattages/amps are fluctuating too much.? thanks in advance.
Hey, Wilfredo Hernandez! I appreciate you taking the time to ask your question, but unfortunately, I don't have enough info about your specific question to provide an accurate answer, but here is a playlist that, if you watch all of the videos start-to-finish (and take notes 😉), you'll have a REALLY good idea of how to design a solar array which may help with your troubleshooting: th-cam.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/w-d-xo.html
Professional done videos. Good Job!
Nice video and clean installation. However, one note, a breaker is not between the panels and the controller as solar panels are self limiting. If your wires are properly sized you will have no problem. You should definitely have an appropriate switch to disconnect the panels safely. Of course the breaker can be used for this but it is an unnecessary waste of money.
That was explained in the 2nd half of the video just in case you didn't watch it through all of the way. 🙂👍
Thanks
I like the code references.
Cheers
Thanks for watching :)
I'm about to add solar disconnect breakers to my travel trailer, I have roof mounted panels as well as a thru wall plug for portable. I know I will add the disconnect between panels and controller for the roof mounted, but I also want to add one for the portable circuit. My portable has the controller attached to the array. Do I need to move that controller to between the battery and the disconnect or is it OK to leave the controller where it is (panel>controller>thru wall plug>disconnect>battery) I was thinking in this configuration the thru wall plug become an alternate 12V source with the disconnect to turn it off.
If it hasn't been asked already, can this switch be used to disconnect the panels while they are receiving full sun and are under load? I'm thinking of a rare event where an BMS fault occurs abd gives a warning of an imminent shutdown. Im not 100% sure it would be necessary to try and immediately disconnect the panels in such a situation though?
Hi Nate, i ordered the breaker you recommended in your link, but the wireing diagram on the front of it says black red on top and red black on the bottom, in the video you wired the breaker black red on top and black red on the bottom..can you please tell me the correct wiring for the breaker you recommended in your link
How does the NEC effect vehicle systems? Except maybe good practices.
Hi, I will be installing 8 Hanes Q. duo L- G8.3, 425w solar panels and I am confused what kind of PV array disconnect with DCbreakers. Thanks for your help.
Can I use 2 single pole 10amp DC breakers side by side coming from just a single 100 watt solar panel, then to 10amp controller just for using as switches to disconnect + and - from solar panels......Or just put the breaker on the positive from solar panel.
Cheers, great video's!
Jason.
You ***can*** do whatever you like. I've provided the proper information; now it's up to you to decide what you actually want to do. 👍🙂
Nate, I didn't find that the disconnector is UL listed. My permit says that all equipment must be UL listed. I cannot find a mini disconnector that UL listed. Question - can I use the Anderson connector that rated higher than my PV system and UL listed?
Have you seen the double pole DC breakers were the wire polarity at the top is opposite at the bottom of the breaker they have + & - marked on each end and are aligned opposite ?
be carefull with them, they can catch fire when trips off even under normal current if they were wired with wrong polarity
Thanks Nate, your brilliant 👍
Thanks so much for your solar videos
Hey Paul Affeldt, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
I have limited space.......is it mandatory for breaker to be in the box? Thanks in advance!
Great vid as usual. and I already bought the box and breaker, but...should you, or can you also have an inline fuse/breaker on a single 400 watt solar panel?
You need a disconnect, but no fuse. More info: th-cam.com/video/s1P31hxlD3I/w-d-xo.html
Makes perfect sense, thanks! Question about the reset breakers you show at 5:37 though, the middle breaker shown is (I believe) an audio line breaker? I've been told these are totally unsuitable for use as a breaker for any constant DC power load. Is this correct? If so, what makes them unsuitable?
Yeah, I don't recommend those in any electrical system because there isn't a reputable manufacturer that makes that type of breaker (maybe there is a good reason for that?). Blue Sea, Cooper, Eaton, Bussman, Littelfuse are a few of the overcurrent protection manufacturers I'm looking at when purchasing and recommending overcurrent protection.
Thanks @@EXPLORISTlife , that was close as I was about to put a bunch of these breakers (bimetallic I think they are called?) in my van. Concerning as I deliberately sought them out as they are the type used by the auto electrician who originally put my inverter in. Anyway, think I'll perhaps look at just an ANL fuse for the battery and either the Bussman or Blue Sea 187 series breaker for my inverter and perhaps just a basic blade fuse box for everything else (nothing above 40A).
I switched to that double pole last summer because you mentioned it in another video. Thanks for the explanation as to why. It sounds like that was an update in the 2020 code so there's probably lots of incorrectly wired PV systems on RVs. I had the Blue sea systems circuit breaker and my series/parallel was around 44v so I guess it was ok but I had tunnel vision looking at the amperage and not the max voltage. Thanks for explaining this in detail, great job and thank you 😁👍
Yeah, I've made that mistake in the past as well before I really dove into doing this stuff (and teaching it) properly.
Do you have a video where you do this with multiple charge controllers? NOT the video of wiring multiple charge controllers to the Victron Lynx Distributer, but to this point. Or do you just use 2 entry glands and 2 of these disconnects?
Our inverter has 2 mppt input each can take 11A . but our PV Panel produces 17.33A. Can we use Y connector to divide current and input 8.665A per mppt input?
I’ve ordered my disconnect and will be installing in the near future. Thanks so much for all your videos!
I do have a question…when the disconnect is switched off, and the PV panels are active, ie generating voltage, is there any heat build-up to be concerned with?
Nope. 👍
I have a solar generator in my house that will be hooked to three 400 watt solar panels wired in series. Together the three panels will generate 150 volts DC at 9 amps. It looks like the breakers you are using will work with this setup. Are there any similar breakers that can be used outside. I would prefer to mount the breakers at the panels on my solar ground mount rather than inside the house.
Excellent info you have provided! Would it be possible to combine the breaker shutoff feature and also be able to satisfy the fuse requirements on that side of the controller? Say one needed a 30amp fuse on the positive side between the controller and panels, couldn't the shutoff breaker be rated at 30amp, allowing the breaker to do a dual duty? An older video but perhaps someone out there has a thought on this...thx
Nope. The fusing would need to be on the 'panel' side of the combiner.
Other than "that's what the NEC code requires", is there a practical reason to use a switch that simultaneously disconnects the positive and negative leads from the solar panel? I'm scratching my head, trying to think of something bad that could happen by switching just the positive lead, but I can't can't come up with anything.
Dear, my pv array current is 415 volt , is there any available breaker or protection that can trip in case of short circuit or over current or amp
Hello Nate great videos. I am looking for the proper diagram hoping you can point me to. I am wiring 800watts of solar, 3000watt inverter. I removed the generator from my Chinook RV hoping to replace this system. The camper has 30 amp shore power. Can I just use the existing switch wires from the old generator? Do I need a on/off switch? Thank you
Check the 30A OEM RV Retrofit diagram available on www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you
Is there a breaker panel that takes and sends out three pairs of md4 connectors for multiple panel groups connecting to the new Victron smart solar 150/85 or bigger controllers...I'd rather use dedicated cables for each group and not seeing why I don't stick with the BogueRV prepared cables... new to all things solar though.
I have a 400w solar in series and a 40amp mppt. Do I have to used a dual breaker 50 amp or a 63amp ?
Thanks and really good videos 👍
One question, you said it is a regulation to have a solar breaker, so why does Jayco and multiple more caravan builders don’t install it?
All that it is on the incoming positive wire is a 30a fuse.
Hi Nate
Loving your videos - thanks. I have a question about wiring the switch up. I saw a video saying that you have the have the pos and neg on certain sides otherwise the unit bursts in to flames when turned off? Obviously + to + and - to -, but does it matter which side of the unit is used? mine has a large N on one of the terminals on the right hand side so guess that would be the neg connection, but does it really matter if i run the positive down the right hand side of the switch or the left hand side of the switch?? Hope that makes sense?
many thanks
Camp alot in the south. Would you add an SPD for lighting aswell
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
Nate….I built your exact system with the disconnect in this video. On my latest camping trip the disconnect tripped! Twice! Both at the height of sun for the day. I try to reset it and it would immediately trip. I left it off for 20 minutes or so and it reset. Why would the disconnect trip? I have 1200 watts of solar (6-200 watters) that are wired series-parallel.
Interesting. Is it the 63A breaker? Could always be a faulty breaker, I suppose. It's pretty rare for that breaker to trip. Are the connections nice and solid?
Rookie move….connection worked its way loose from bottom of breaker to solar charge controller. Thanks
Great videos. Looks like some of the product links in the blog are dead? Anyhow what do you think of the UL rated dc/solar isolator switches? Usually 4 pole for 1 or 2 strings and rated for 700 or more volts, 32 amps?
Blog post links may be dead if they used to go to Amazon. All parts are available in our store direct from us now: shop.explorist.life
@ Awesome. Thanks. I see you offer a nice 1000v rated PV isolator switch along with a double pole breaker in a nice enclosure as two options for PV disconnect. Other than the switch being more expensive, do you prefer one over the other?
Hi Nate, your videos are super good. I am learning a every time I watch your videos. Keep up the good work
I need a solar panel A/B switch. In other to send solar to two different inverters/chargers. Any ideas.
I have a combiner box outside by the panels in a weather proof box with 3 - 15amp breakers will this be ok and not have to be in the house.
Would I ever need to disconnect my solar panels from the controller in case of an emergency? If so, how would I do that? Use a battery disconnect switch? Or...maybe I wouldn't ever have to worry about that?
Good stuff thanks 🙏
Thanks! 🙂🙌
I don’t see a dual din box on your website. Perhaps I’m missing it.
Very informative video, grateful your channel exists. Conscious of the space for electrics in my van (but of course safety comes first) - if I take two of those 48V max square breakers (one for the pos wire and one for the neg wire coming from one 24V PV) and position them side by side, would this have the same effect as a dim rail breaker and box? Thanks
Nope. The positive and negative conductors need to be able to disconnect simultaneously.
Ah I just noticed that although there are two pairs of wires to be fed into the breaker there is only one switch to flip that turns both off. Very helpful, thank you