How to Wire a Solar DC Switch - Budget Build EP16
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- How to wire a DC Solar Isolator Switch. These can be very daunting when you open the box and are faced with 8 terminals and a wiring diagram often missing from the box. In this video, I give you a detailed walk-through of how the switch is built, what to look for when buying a switch, and how we can wire it into our solar system.
I have placed links here to the products shown in this video
DC Solar PV Switch www.ebay.co.uk...
20mm Plastic Cable Glands www.ebay.co.uk...
Electrical Continuity Tester www.ebay.co.uk...
WERA Interchangeable Screwdriver Set www.ebay.co.uk...
Disclosure - As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase using the above affiliate link. Thank you for supporting our channel.
Please do leave me a comment below the video with any suggestions for things you would like me to cover in future videos. If you find these videos helpful please do share them with others and give the video a thumbs up.
If you would like to say thanks with a small gift you can do so here www.paypal.me/...
Thank you very much for watching and wish you all the best with your own camper van builds
Greg & Lou
#selfbuildcampervan #offgridsolar #diysolar
This video is for those that have one of these PV isolators and need to know how it is wired.
This is not the place to suggest alternatives as that just confuses purpose of this video. Save your time and mine we will discuss DC breakers in another video 😊 thank you 🙏🏼
Another Very informative and slightly entertaining video 🤓
@@BigVanSmallWorld only slightly entertaining 😂😃👍🏼
@@GregVirgoe can we please have more videos on this? I'm on the edge of my seat here 😁
I've just binge watched this whole series. It's blooming brilliant but... why are there no more episodes? I'm chomping at the bit here! ❤️
Brilliant Greg. A lot of folks will be grateful for this one. I really needed this about 3 months ago. It was a real head scratcher for me at the time but I'm now relieved to see i did install it as you advised here.
If ever you get stuck you can always ask my advise 👍🏼😊
I don't get anything out of ASMR, but I always enjoy your videos. A whole bunch of questions and a comprehensive explanation that makes sense. It puts my brain in its happy place 😁 👍👍
That’s brilliant 🤩 I’m really glad you are enjoying these instructional videos 👍🏼
@@GregVirgoe I really do. I'm not planning on building a camper in the immediate future but really enjoy the information. I'm currently working out a new shed build so I can actually get into the existing shed and build a couple of bike engines with my daughter. I've also been playing with Evaporust on some old spanners and woodworking tools - the rust literally dissolves off 🤯. I've also been enjoying watching Ivan on the Shed Racing TH-cam channel. If I've got even half as much going on as he does when (if) I reach his age I'll be a very happy camper. I'd highly recommend giving him a watch if you've not seen him.
@@russ1046 that sounds interesting 🤔 I’ll check it out
Thanks again for a detailed video, you definitely need your own tv show , very well explained
Wow, thanks. That’s very nice of you to say so 😊
Hi Greg, Great explanation of a DC Isolator and wiring. I was wondering why the rating only goes to 45Amp if you double up the switch contacts. Most folks would expect it to go from 32A to 64A rating. I noticed a similar thing with cables.....if you use two wires connected together at both ends (i know this is normally frowned upon, but on a battery it does provide for a bit more flexibility), . ...for example you would expect a 16mm2 cable with current rating of say 90 Amps, then two cables joined together should be 180Amps....whereas a 32mm2 (35mm2) only has a rating of 145Amps. You may have already done a video of this ?, but another Virgoe refresher would be brilliant. Getting a standard awg to mm2 conversion chart has been confusing too.
Watching back over alot of your previous videos, providing awesome content. Thank you and keep up the great job! 👍
I was wondering how you are doing Greg, are you keeping ok?
With your help I've got my daughter's van coming along very nicely - slow, but pleased with how it's going. I reckon a couple more months and I'll be ready to hand it over to her.
Just thought I'd take time out to thank you and say I hope you are ok. All the very best,
Richard
As always Greg you have explained this in such a way that is just easy to understand……
I fitted a changeover switch last year that confused the hell out of me, but after, and shall we just call it an accidental connection, I finally sussed it out…. If I’d had you to back then I would have been fine. Great teaching video as always. Thank you 👍🍻
I agree they are very confusing to wire. The poles are stacked in rows going back from the switch but more difficult than this isolator 😉
Thank you Greg for making the video of isolater switch I love watching your videos mate👍
Glad you like them! Was this something you needed to know?
Explained clearly as usual to fully understand, thank you ,this is a great help and it's so useful that you provide links to make searches so much easier, thank you its appreciated 👍
Thank you for leaving a great comment 👍🏼😊
I got one with the MC4 onto it. Fools proof. 👌
Yes that one is internally pre wired so is just plug and play 👍🏼😊
Great video Greg , these switches are a bit of a pain to wire , what you could do is an AC switch vlog , say for shore/off/alt, most of them have 8 connections which require linking out a common output , you videos are well presented so think would attract high views as there's not many out there . 👍
Yes I know exactly which one you mean and you are right they do require a link to common up the output side. I’m planning something special for changeover
As always a well explained detailed video. Everything needed and nothing confusing. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! and thank you for a great comment. 😊
Another nice video, Greg. I think the most useful piece of content was using the ohm (multi-) meter to test how the terminals are paired. Can’t make sense of the instructions/diagram? Use your ohm meter and figure out how it works. PS - Make a table of the results; do not rely on your memory.
I wanted to show how to find out with no instructions in case you need to work it out for yourself. 😊
These detailed videos are so good. I've been watching some welsh mob doing a budget van conversion and all you get is look what I've done, or I didn't video yesterday that's the electrics done, :) Keep it up Greg this is education not Uneducation (Don't think that's a word, but you get the gist)
I hate that, “here’s what I finished earlier” no idea how it was done. Complete waste of time 😮 Thank you for supporting these videos.
Greg, this budget build is exactly what I have been looking for. The episodes have stopped at 16 though 😢. I'm so hoping that you will be adding to these with insulation and lining of the walls and ceilings, furniture and finishing etc. Your choice of h2l2 is exactly what I am looking at so this is gold dust for me. Thanks so much for everything you have done to date 👍
Great vid again mate thanks for your time and effort cheers mark and the hughesys🏴
Glad you enjoyed it 👍🏼😊
Thanks so much , this has really helped us with our van build ❤
Greg Virgoe : TH-cam MVP! 😊
Wow 🤩 like winning man of the match 🏆👍🏼
Spotty Dog Greg. Cannot remember wiring mine but thanx for sharing
No problem 😉 thanks 🙏🏼
Hope you are okay Greg and enjoying your life. You've thought me so much and I can't explain what it means to me and my wife that we are getting into our van build. Looking forward to seeing some new great stuff from you soon. 😊
I live in France and I see all of the info videos are suggesting armaflex AF, even putting 2 layers of it which doesn't look promising and optimal... you mentioned in your insulation video that you will be using mix of 50mm PIR, recycled bottle wool, vapor barrier and thin closed cell foam, so can we expect the wall insulation video soon? 😅
Wow, thank you and yes we are busy filming thenext video as we speak and will be new content out very soon
@@GregVirgoe Thanks for the response Greg! First of all, I'm glad that you are doing well :)) And of course, looking forward to the new content :)
Cracking video once again. Thank you. 👍📹
You are most welcome, thank you for your nice comment
Hey Greg, thank you for all your content, amazing!!!! Can I ask how often are you posting episodes for this series, just wondering when the next one was coming. thanks
Greg, what happens after episode 16? Where is the rest of the build? What happened to the van? This was going to be my step by step van conversion guide.
Thank you.
Hi Greg, happy new year to you. Will you be continuing with this build series in 2024? I've been following your build videos while converting my Ducato and I'm more than ready for the next episode. Cheers
Great video as usual Greg. That switch is mahoooosive. Bigger than my 300A battery isolator. Why so ? Ringo
Because your battery isolator is only one switch and not 4 plus I bet it doesn’t have an IP66 waterproof box around it so you can put it outside.
Chalk and cheese 😊
Great video as always! But why you didn't used double pole DC MCB that way you could skip the solar fuse, no?
Yes that is true, but this video is for people who are struggling to wire this isolator. 🙄
Worth teacher EVER
Nope, the worst teacher ever was the one who taught you how to spell.
As always explained in every detail, thanks. I just wonder if you could use it to connect two sets of 20A panels, so 40A in total or is it rated to maximum 32A through all terminals/poles?
You could isolate one panel through 1-2 & 3-4 the isolate the other panel using 5-6 & 7-8.
Don’t combine them until after the switch or the 40Amps would exceed the contact rating. 😊
A DC MCB also works as an isolator
Great explanation, Greg. Can you also explain, please? When fitting a fuse of say 60amp we can get a selection of fuses with different size terminals. Is say a 35mm cable okay being fused by a 6mm fuse terminal? It seems strange that you can terminate a large cable with a small fixing.
But with most cable lugs it’s not so much the connection to the stud but the base plate via large washers and a nut that gives the most connection surface.
Perfect timing Greg ;-)
That’s great 😃 I’m glad it’s helping you 👍🏼
Thanks, Greg👍very well explained.
Any chance to see proper electric grounding in the van video?
Yes, we will cover that in a dedicated video. There is a lot of confusion about that subject.
Hi Greg just wondering are you continuing with this build, theres a lot of anticipation out there. Thanks
thanks
COOP
...
👍🏼😊
Hi Greg the 4 pole disconnector switch should have a interlock so the cover cannot be removed in the on position and only can be removed in the off position
You are right but this one didn’t. I thought that was odd myself. 🤔
Love watching your vids Greg. Very informative but can you offer a bit of advice.. I bought a portable solar panel as I didn't want a permanent fixture. I have however got Leisure batteries in permanently and a PWM controller. Rather than using an isolator switch between the panel and controller can I put one between the controller and the batteries ?? I don't very often use the car as a micro camper so the Controller would be permanently slowly draining the batteries to stop powering the PWM. Thanks
Excellent as always, and explained with perfection. Just a quick question, is the earthing video still in the pipeline, as that sure confuses me. Thanks Greg.😄
Yes, it is. Thanks for being patient with me. I appreciate it 👍🏼😊
Not really a question about the switch but the continuity tester. Your link takes us to a fairly expensive tester, scrolling down the page shows some very cheap ones and a lot in between. I know that you get what you pay for, but what is the difference between those shown?
Maybe, when this van build is complete and you are between adventures, you could do a video series on the tools you use and how they work. I know that I'd be interested and I'm not really a geek or anerd.
Mine is a cheaper one that was branded by a local electrical wholesaler called Newlec. You can search that name in my link and there was a couple of used ones very cheap. No need to spend a fortune on one 😊
If you were to fit isolators in a house you would be in breach of the current wiring regs as they have caused so many fires. Based on that - do you want to fit one in your van?
Hi Greg did the Ducato project get finished real loving this series of videos,regards Colm
Very informative & enjoyable series , however i am disappointed that it has been four months since any further input from Greg . I do hope all is well with him
Hi Greg.
I'm a newbie here.
Great videos.
Just a small regarding this isolator.
Can you clarify that the bus bars are needed or discarded for the solar panel wires?
Thank you.
S.B.
so should there be an earth cable from the PV isolator to the chassis ground in a van.?
got a question mate, although ive not finished the video yet, typing before i forget. Is it bad to leave a panel on the roof if its not connected to anything? For example, no wires, compared to wired into isolation switch. Because I want to mount it but I dont want it to build up power and blow the panel somehow, or get a dangerous shock. Cheers.
Leave the MC4 connectors unplugged until you are ready to power everything up.
Then you can plug those together before turning on. That’s the safest way.
Great video, really helps. One question, if wiring as you intend, do you leave the buzz bars out altogether
Yes you don’t need them at all
Great video! Thank you very much! Question: is there an isolator box that allows me to switch between two batteries? I have a conventional Rv roof mounted solar system (4-100 watt solar panel, charge controller and two batteries) but I also have a Ecoflow delta. I would like to charge both with my panels. I need a way to isolate power going to the conventional system when I’m charging my Ecoflow delta and vice versa. I’m currently manually unplugging the mc4 connectors.
You can get rotary changeover switches with multiple poles that would do that job ok 👌🏼
I found this on Amazon. Is Baomain a quality manufacturer?
Baomain Universal Rotary Changeover Switch SZW26-20/D202.2D with Master Switch Exterior Box 660V 20A 3 Position 2 Phase (Wider Box)
Where did you get those mini busbars? I've been looking for some like that all over. Everyplace I look they are 12 in, or 4 pin.. cannot find 2 pin, or 4 pin 2 pole.. 600v / 30a or better is tuff.. much less UL certified.
I bought a van with solar equipped and various outlets to run domestic appliances. Never worked, how to test a system is fit for purpose?
Just wondering if there is not a 2 pole isolation switch available? Why use a 4 pole ? Apart from that, another great informative video 😁
good vid thanks lee
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi when will the next video drop of the build ?
Hi Greg great info just started my wiring planning today, could you tell me the link for the 10mm cable from battery to fuse holder please, I cant find it in the links listed
Cheers
Battery Cables Various Sizes www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124964623505?hash=item1d1878d491:g:H6cAAOSwIwJhsuTZ&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338027957&toolid=11800&mkevt=1
Could this 30A be used with a 30amp inline fuse with 200w single solar panel on the roof?
Hi Greg , I meant to ask. Can you use a household consumer unit when wiring the electrics. I ask as in one of the Victron bundles it says 2 x 5 switch consumer units. When there are plenty household ones that will do this in one unit
Cheers
They do that to differentiate between the incoming and outgoing supplies. One for the hook up and one for the inverter.
No reason why you can’t buy a larger enclosure and put all the RCD and breakers in one box.
I have a better solution and much cheaper. Just get two of these www.electrical4less.co.uk/product/wced-a-type-electric-vehicle-2-module-enclosure-16a-rcbo-c-curve/ That is a double pole RCD & MCB in one device 👍🏼😊 Hope that helps
@@GregVirgoe Thankyou
Nice going whens the next video im intreasted how yoy goung to do the bed
Another great video for the uninitiated with very little knowledge (even though I thought that I might be a bit of an expert because I have the same multimeter as you😅).
My camper hasn't got a switch but I was told that I could cut the power from the solar panel by covering it up (yes it's a faff) or by removing the fuse. Is this not true?
A better way would be to disconnect one of the MC4 connections that would act like a switch 😊
Is it possible to wire ( and more importantly will it work) to have the solar switch feeding into the mppt and on the other connection have a Xt60 connector feeding an ecoflow delta...
TIA
How can I find out how many amps my solar panels are? They came with my bus so I don’t know 🤷♀️
If you count the number of individual cells and make a note of the type that should give us a close estimate to the rating. 👍🏼😊
Can you make a tutorial regardless a device wich switch solar power to main power 220v? Thanks
Please have a look at my latest off grid wiring video. th-cam.com/video/xCw7eARJKOg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zy-fZmeucGHs-_3n
Hi Greg, if sterling Power were to supply you goods, would you be able to review them ?
A question: why a 12v dc breaker keeps triping when charging the house batterys with sterling b2b (60A) ?
The breaker is a 80A rated.
The wires are 25mm with cooper lugs. I can seee the breaker overheats when the b2b is charging at around 40amps.
Hi Greg. I even watch your videos now I've finished my build 😅. Anyway I've always been concerned regarding those copper buzz bars . I had them but didn't know where they went and had not found then in the instructions or any videos on TH-cam. Do I need to check if mine has them already installed as I threw them away but it's working. I'm a bit worried now as I've been away in it 3 times and it's running constantly
Hi Greg, just wondering why you have a dedicated continuity tester when most multimeters seems to have a continuity setting and you have a multi meter visible in the video. I only ask as I don't own either and i'm looking to buy one, I'd rather just get the multimeter if it covers the functionality of both devices. Thank you!
I’ve just acquired them over the years, I have two multimeters, a clamp meter and that continuity tester. All four will do continuity testing. The multimeter doesn’t make an audible sound on continuity so for the video it was more effective to use that. But if you only want to buy one device then a normal multimeter will give you more functions in one device.
thanks Greg, LOVE your channel its such a fantastic resource. I have just bought an L3H3 transit i'll be self converting in time for next summer @@GregVirgoe
It's a bit like when people go to change a domestic light that's bunched and connected at the switch.
Always isolate everything if working on 230v stuff and be sure you know what you are doing. That packs a bigger punch 😉
Hello Greg, is this series finished now? Sorry if that info is elsewhere…..I can’t find any news? Cheers and happy Xmas Paul
hi greg love the vids learning so much, i wish to be able to switch the solar incoming between a renogy 50A dc dc mppt and a bluetti AC200MAX ive seen 3 point switch not sure if double pole, i guess they would have to be. If so could this be used instead of an isolator or would have to as well as?
You can do that with a double pole changeover switch. It will switch both positive and negative and has a centre off position. Just make sure you are not exceeding the max input of the power bank.
Hi Greg
I have one of the consumer units you have linked to in this video.
Would it be ok to wire the Truma 4e boiler to the 6amp mcb and my plug sockets to the 10amp mcb.
I will be plugging in a 40amp fogstar battery charger and a 2000w Renogy invertor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The Truma will need to come off the 10amp breaker as it’s a 1800w electric element in those. The 40amp mains charger will run fine on the 6amp breaker as that is only just over 2amps from the mains input side. Hope that helps 👍🏼😊
Hi Greg can you help me please. I own 65 plate Citroen relay.
Rear doors saying open all the time after the right-hand door got blown shut which i corrected...ie left door 1st then the right off course..... that's when the rear doors open sign popped up.
I now can't lock the doors properly.
Pretty sure you'll know the answer thanks Scott
It must have dislodged the switch or the switch got stuck on the right door that tells the van the door is closed. th-cam.com/video/pOu709I4MVk/w-d-xo.html
@@GregVirgoe thanks I'll look into it I had bought a new actuator but when I plugged it in it still never threw the lock over but least I never fitted it I'll let you know my progress ☺️
@@scottwalker3162 most likely the door contacts if it slammed. 👍🏼😊
@@GregVirgoe I'm hoping so but is there door contacts on the rear door or did you mean the side door contacts?
@@scottwalker3162 I would expect there to be door contacts on the rear too. 👍🏼😊
Hi Greg, I've got a question about my build. I'm currently installing a split charger to two batteries but I also have two solar panels. Is there an order I've to do this in? I was given a warning before hooking everything up.
@@J4m-ontoast you also need a solar charge controller. Leisure battery to solar charger before you connect the solar then you can connect split charger.
I don’t recommend using split charge relays because all they are is a switch. Far better to use a DC to DC charger or the combined unit I’m fitting in the Ducato 👍🏼
Thank for a another great video 😃 I also went for all products from Renogy and for the solar panels I read in the manual that calculating the Amps I need to add the Sizing Factor. So in your case 10.31 + 10.31 = 20.62 * 1.56 (SF) would come to 32.16 Amps. I have the same 175 Watt panels but I have 3 of them. So my calculations is 10.31 * 3 * 1.56 = 48.25 Amps. Also in parallel. I got a isolator rated for 50A and I also got the same Charge Controller like yours but mine is the 50A version. What do you think about the Sizing Factor, how important is it to add it? Cheers mate
I’d like to see which manual you were referring to as I’ve not heard of the Sizing Factor 😊
I recommend applying a 25% margin to your load when sizing fuses then your cables do need to be sized above that so a 56% margin on cables would be really safe way to go. 👍🏼🤩
Hey Greg, I read about the calculation of total Short Circuit Current (Isc) * 1.56 in the manual for the Charge Controller on page 13. I did not understand what 1.56 was so after some Googling it is called Sizing Factor. Also sorry I first wrote volts and then Amps but I ment Amps all along. On a side note that bothers me is that after speaking with Renogy twice about the cable size after the branch connectors they recommend 10 AWG/6mm cable for me with 3, 175 Watt panels. I asked if I need 6 AWG/16mm for my 48A including 1.56 in the calculations and up to 4.6 meters long cable but one support guy said to not think like that. 🤔 You went higher up to 6mm cable because of the Amps increase in parallel. I think you said that in the solar video 😊
@@kriscapson yes I did go up to 6mm on the solar cable because the amps doubled in parallel.
I find the best free cable sizing calculator to use is this one on 12volt planet knowledge base
www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html
Just scroll halfway down the page to find it. Really easy to use 👍🏼🤩
@@GregVirgoe Great, thanks Greg ✌🤩 Cheers mate
Hi Greg, I'm going to have 3, 175w solar panels, so that would that isolator work I do I need a higher rated one
Thanks in advance
It would just do it. To be safer you could go 40-60 amp rated switch for very similar cost. 👍🏼🤩
@@GregVirgoe thanks Greg
👍
Cheers 🍻
We call fool-proof drafts like this "soldier-proof and understandable for generals!" 😂
When is the next video been so long 😢
Great video Greg could have given me a mention with all my questions via IG 😊
Lol 😂 you and 500 others that needed to know. Glad that you are all sorted 🤩👍🏻
1st
YAY!! Nice one :D Thanks
👍🚐😎
Cheers 🍻😊
‘BUSS BARS’ not as you keep saying, “Buzz bars”!
Oh come on, really 🤔 They are of course 'busbars' but in my 32yrs of electronics employment they have always been pronounced 'buzbar'.
@kinross24 touch them when they are on and see what noise they make. 😂🙄
Have you given up on the build Gregg, no updates for a while, which is not like you. Hope all is ok. 👍
Very informative & enjoyable series , however i am disappointed that it has been four months since any further input from Greg . I do hope all is well with him
Are you going to continue with your van build ?
Huge thanks! Really helpful video (as always)!
@@liamfinch4129 glad it helped you. Thanks for the comment too 👍🏼
Thanks for this nugget of information, I’ve had a few commercially built Motorhomes and caravans and none have a solar isolator, probably a money saving exercise? Do you think this should be industry standard practise to fit these?
Thanks again, Andy.
Yes because it’s not easy or safe to disconnect solar cables from mppt or climb up on roof to unplug a panel.
Always great to view content that you've created and shared. Question: Why not simply use a DC-rated two-pole circuit breaker to both protect and isolate? This is the approach I've always used; mounting these breakers on DIN rails in an exposed enclosure that's accessible right at an entry point to the vehicle.
You are right and I will cover those too in a future video, things move on so quickly and many ways to skin a cat these days. Thanks for the comment.
@@GregVirgoe Thanks so much for your reply, Greg.
I was gonna ask the same question, if there was a reason why, as that is what I plan to do. Cheers.
Superb video Greg. When I fitted my first pv isolation switch I was really baffled so I contacted the supplier. We went through a lengthy process over the phone and discovered that the switch was defective. So, I joined the cables with a pair of big chocolate box connectors....far from perfect but it did work. I've since installed a fully functioning switch and it was clearly explained to me by the firm that installed solar panels on my roof at home.....just as you have here 👍
Glad you got it sorted now. Thank you for sharing your experience 😊
yet another informative video greg thank you.. 🤷♂I do have a question about the cable you use for the solar.? I see they have 4mm & 6mm.. which would i need for 1 single 435W solar panel..?? Also as others have said when will you be uploading more of the budget build videos.. . 🙏🙏🙏
Hi Greg , Re -watching your budget van build of 1 year ago but I cannot find the final video on how it all turned out ! I d love too see the final result? 🙏🏻🏴 grt step by step advice & knowhow fab work. 👋🏻🏴
Yes Greg sent you message a while a go thank you for putting this video on Greg your a star
I have had quite a few requests on this switch and it’s understandable when you open it with all these terminals and busbars inside 👍🏼😊
That switch is bigger than most people's vans! 😮 😂😂
Thanks Greg.
Another excellent, informative video. Perfect timing as I've just fitted the Gland on the roof yesterday and routed the 6mm cables to where the switch is going to be fitted.
I must say, being in sync with your videos as I build my Peugeot Boxer campervan is working out brilliantly.
Thanks again
I hope i can keep up with your expected schedule then :D no Pressure lol
@@GregVirgoe haha why did I say that.... I'm feeling the pressure now!
Could you please make a video about cable size? How thick cables are needed for heavy loads or long runs to get tge needed power?
Hey Greg, I'm wondering if and when you will carry on with the budget build of the Ducato? Many thanks for videos I've enjoyed every one of them.
In another video you show a plastic with an RCD and two MCB's (6 & 10 A) and you mentioned that you could not get the kit in a metal box. I have two comments on this that I friend enquired of me, he asked if he should wire the two MCB to gether to give 16a through put. I pointed out to hime that he would not get the 16 amps he wants to supply to his Victron inverter, if he wire them in series the ^A RCD would pop as soon as he applied power to the inverter.. I informed him that he could use a 16 amp RCBO (Residual Current Breaker with Over-Current) which would give him the correct AC feed to his inverter. The RCBO can also be purchased in a metal Enclosure. I think you should re-record your video and include the RCBO as it is perfect for a van fit as it is reasonably small in a metelic box.
Do I need a switch that’s rated greater than my solar panel current at PMAX(IMPP) or Maximum Overcurrent Protection Rating? I’m using 3 400W panels in series with an IMPP of 12.89A but with MOPR of 30A. Just one positive & one negative cable also at this point.
Anyone found a smaller 4-pole switch? This box looks like it travelled from the Victorian times :/
Can you also put insulation first before doing the wiring? Shouldn't the insulation go underneath the wires up against the panels?
Is there a video showing the full van build?