this is a topic worth revisiting at some point, but for now please take a look at this video we shot a while ago covering this topic th-cam.com/video/RZwdugX3oCo/w-d-xo.html
Your discussion gave me flashbacks to late sixties/early seventies movies... I think in those transitional times, I saw a lot of what I'd call the "Budget Detective" look... narrow lapels with wide ties... but seldom wide lapels with narrow ties. Basically, a look that said, "I'll update my tie width to keep with the times, but I'll hang on to my current suit for as long as I can to save money. " I think the only time I've seen a narrower tie with broad peaked lapels on double-breasted suits were in thirties-era movies .
Great vid as always! I really think the lapel width depends on the size of the suit/the size of the person. You don't want someone who's wearing say a 46/56 with a narrow lapel suit as the suit is already quite big and the narrow lapel will look even more narrower, kinda making it look like a cartoon character wearing a suit like Mr Incredible. The reverse goes to the smaller size say 34/44 where a wider lapel makes the wear looks like a child as the proportion will look odd. I think the sweet spot size to "play around" with lapel width is around 36ish to a small 52.
Thanks for the video Mark. Perhaps it’s just me, but I found it hard to tell the difference with the ties just places against the lapel. I think it would’ve been more effective if it were on a mannequin on better yet on a person. I get that it’s a lot more work but it would get the point across. Just my 2 cents
Hi Mark! I believe the wool balloon fabric is flexible from season to season. Can you show us how to style the navy model 3 wool balloon jacket for different seasons?
A lower lapel gorge also seems to make wider lapel seem more understated. A very wide lapel with a high lapel gorge can go anywhere from making a statement to cartoonish
Your preference for trouser rise and preferred break. Also, how much room for function and comfort, should one have at different levels of suit jacket and trousers? As in, chest and waist area of a jacket, and seat and thigh areas with trousers? Thanks you.
We posted a video a while back discussing trouser silhouettes and a little bit about how they match up with jackets. Whilst it might not answer everything in your question it does touch on many aspects of it. th-cam.com/video/RZwdugX3oCo/w-d-xo.html
How does this apply to silk knitted ties that are usually thinner in width than regular ties? I have knitted ties in different widths, from 6cm to 8cm. Can they be used with jackets with lapel widths of 9cm or 9.5cm? Thanks in advance for your advice!
Hi Mark. Thanks for the video. When you measure lapel width, are you considering the distance from the edge to the jacket fold straight across, or are you measuring the seam that runs on an angle and bisects the notch?
Yes body type will play a part - as Mark mentioned, the size of the lapel should be proportional to the jacket size. for example for larger builds (and larger jackets) we would recommend wider lapels
one often hears some really appalling style advice (especially pertaining to shorter men) regarding using very narrow proportions i.e slim lapels, skinny ties, tiny collars, no breaks/cuffs/pleats etc. the men wearing that sort of thing end up looking like they have children's clothes on.
Speaking as a 5'5" guy, I totally agree. Classic details and widths look great on me so long as everything is in proportion. All my trousers have cuffs and I'm much happier for it. I've tried narrow lapels, narrow ties and no-cuff trousers - I looked terrible! Keep it classic and you can't go wrong!
These fundamental videos are absolutely necessary.
Learning a lot! Thanks
Thank you, glad you find value in them
Please talk about trousers length next time. Thanks!
Cuffs and pleats as well.....if you havent already
this is a topic worth revisiting at some point, but for now please take a look at this video we shot a while ago covering this topic th-cam.com/video/RZwdugX3oCo/w-d-xo.html
Your discussion gave me flashbacks to late sixties/early seventies movies... I think in those transitional times, I saw a lot of what I'd call the "Budget Detective" look... narrow lapels with wide ties... but seldom wide lapels with narrow ties. Basically, a look that said, "I'll update my tie width to keep with the times, but I'll hang on to my current suit for as long as I can to save money. "
I think the only time I've seen a narrower tie with broad peaked lapels on double-breasted suits were in thirties-era movies .
Great vid as always! I really think the lapel width depends on the size of the suit/the size of the person. You don't want someone who's wearing say a 46/56 with a narrow lapel suit as the suit is already quite big and the narrow lapel will look even more narrower, kinda making it look like a cartoon character wearing a suit like Mr Incredible. The reverse goes to the smaller size say 34/44 where a wider lapel makes the wear looks like a child as the proportion will look odd. I think the sweet spot size to "play around" with lapel width is around 36ish to a small 52.
Thanks for the video Mark. Perhaps it’s just me, but I found it hard to tell the difference with the ties just places against the lapel. I think it would’ve been more effective if it were on a mannequin on better yet on a person. I get that it’s a lot more work but it would get the point across. Just my 2 cents
This was excellent!, thanks!
Hi Mark! I believe the wool balloon fabric is flexible from season to season. Can you show us how to style the navy model 3 wool balloon jacket for different seasons?
A lower lapel gorge also seems to make wider lapel seem more understated. A very wide lapel with a high lapel gorge can go anywhere from making a statement to cartoonish
Great stuff
Your preference for trouser rise and preferred break. Also, how much room for function and comfort, should one have at different levels of suit jacket and trousers? As in, chest and waist area of a jacket, and seat and thigh areas with trousers? Thanks you.
We posted a video a while back discussing trouser silhouettes and a little bit about how they match up with jackets. Whilst it might not answer everything in your question it does touch on many aspects of it. th-cam.com/video/RZwdugX3oCo/w-d-xo.html
Yes, I remember watching this very informative video. Thank you for reminding me and for the reply.@@TheArmourytv
How does this apply to silk knitted ties that are usually thinner in width than regular ties? I have knitted ties in different widths, from 6cm to 8cm. Can they be used with jackets with lapel widths of 9cm or 9.5cm?
Thanks in advance for your advice!
I am torn right now my chest about 34 inches shoulder 18 inches. What lapel width should I go with? I am 6'1. Thanks
Hi Mark. Thanks for the video. When you measure lapel width, are you considering the distance from the edge to the jacket fold straight across, or are you measuring the seam that runs on an angle and bisects the notch?
we measure straight across from edge of the jacket
I m a 42 in suit do I have to wear sim lapels or bigger lapels
The trend for the gorge of notch lapel is to move up towards the shoulder. Can share your thoughts about this trend
I think it's already started to reverse, thankfully. rises are rising and gorges are lowering.
Does body type play into lapel width? I would have thought a very wide lapel looks best on a slim frame - basically filling you out more?
Yes body type will play a part - as Mark mentioned, the size of the lapel should be proportional to the jacket size. for example for larger builds (and larger jackets) we would recommend wider lapels
Aggressive laptop slam 😂
Rule of thumb is, if your lapels can’t fit through the doorway, they’re too wide. Anything else goes.
amen
What if I can't fit through a doorway ? Is a 4 inch lapel okay ?
one often hears some really appalling style advice (especially pertaining to shorter men) regarding using very narrow proportions i.e slim lapels, skinny ties, tiny collars, no breaks/cuffs/pleats etc. the men wearing that sort of thing end up looking like they have children's clothes on.
Speaking as a 5'5" guy, I totally agree. Classic details and widths look great on me so long as everything is in proportion. All my trousers have cuffs and I'm much happier for it. I've tried narrow lapels, narrow ties and no-cuff trousers - I looked terrible! Keep it classic and you can't go wrong!
totally agree. i'm about the same height and the same style details@@jjsolis8259
Many lapels and ties are way too skinny these days
well, now I know why drake's makes such skinny ties... A shame, really. Wider ties just flare out so nicely. One can dream...