Yeah, did the Capo.. both inlet nearest timing chains need doing.. I just honed the shims on a diamond stone by hand, took them from 0.14 to 0.17 as per the cold specs in the manual.. All the rest were middle of the range so didn’t need adjustment. The three notable things were counter balance nut was a bit scary, the front cover was a pain (radiator diverter hose needed to be removed to get to it but it allowed me to de-corrode and paint rad fins). Last thing I don’t like is waiting a 1000km & hoping the thread lock does its work😬 Good job with your second valve setting adventure 👍🏻
Well done I didn't take the coolant hose off the front cylinder I just unbolted one cam wheel and left the adjuster in place . Now I think about the balancer shaft with nut I think do we have to unbolt it can it not come out complete.
The balancer drive cog had to be removed to get the inlet lobes out.. I needed to use a long lever to break the nut at the same time i used a stout screwdriver with a 7.5mm shaft to brace the counter balance and stop it from putting too much strain onto the chain.. Nervous but it seemed to go ok once I fully committed 😬
The front was easy, as you said I only needed to remove the inlet cog.. Just the mapping to do when i get a moment,, oh and to rebuild the rear shock preload.. If i can find anything on how to do it!?
Yeah, did the Capo.. both inlet nearest timing chains need doing.. I just honed the shims on a diamond stone by hand, took them from 0.14 to 0.17 as per the cold specs in the manual.. All the rest were middle of the range so didn’t need adjustment.
The three notable things were counter balance nut was a bit scary, the front cover was a pain (radiator diverter hose needed to be removed to get to it but it allowed me to de-corrode and paint rad fins).
Last thing I don’t like is waiting a 1000km & hoping the thread lock does its work😬
Good job with your second valve setting adventure 👍🏻
Well done I didn't take the coolant hose off the front cylinder I just unbolted one cam wheel and left the adjuster in place .
Now I think about the balancer shaft with nut I think do we have to unbolt it can it not come out complete.
The balancer drive cog had to be removed to get the inlet lobes out..
I needed to use a long lever to break the nut at the same time i used a stout screwdriver with a 7.5mm shaft to brace the counter balance and stop it from putting too much strain onto the chain..
Nervous but it seemed to go ok once I fully committed 😬
The front was easy, as you said I only needed to remove the inlet cog..
Just the mapping to do when i get a moment,, oh and to rebuild the rear shock preload.. If i can find anything on how to do it!?
I can pass on a number if you want somebody to do it for you, don't think its that hard .
The mapping is easy if your pc will talk to the bike .
I’m based over in Ireland so it would be a bit awkward but I’d probably enjoy doing it myself if I can find a rebuild kit, any suggestions Capt?
Its chain is stronger than of the Capo.
Yes it does look like it is , I suppose being a single 650 it needs to be .