This video was made years ago for people who wanted to replace their brakes on their driveway with minimal tools and on a limited budget. I need to add that if you are having trouble pulling the rotor out because it's stuck to the hub from some rust, and you are not reusing that old rotor, you may hammer it from behind. If that still doesn't work, make sure the parking brake was not applied first (if it was applied, try removing the rotor again), and if not then you may loosen the parking brake tension by removing the access plug (as seen on 3:03) and rotating that access hole to the bottom, then try to turn the adjustment wheel inside the hole with a flat head screwdriver, in order to pull the two parking brake shoes together an free the rotor. Also, don't use anti seize on sliding parts as it contains grit and anti seize is not a lubricant, so use a silicone brake lubricant.
@crocodile2006 it's called "percussive maintenance"! I believe the issue was the parking brake being engaged, but I agree that for someone who's rotor was rusted to the hub might need advice on how to hammer it out.
I could pick holes all day in this but lets take a look at the main fails Clean it up. Clean the pad carrier with a wire brush, it takes seconds to do but ensures the pad can slide freely when refitted. Clean the guide pins and the guide holes of old grease. Check the guide seals for cracks, they cost pennies to replace. Coppaslip is ok if its the real thing, rated to 1100'c but I use ceramic brake grease, rated to 1600'c. It costs the same to buy and matches the manufacturer spec and whichever you use dont smear it in the pads, they are meant for grip. Buy service tools, a caliper windback tool will last for a lot of brake jobs. And a Hammer ? A small pry-bar would have popped that pad out of the carrier, no need to batter it. If that is your first brake change, good effort!
Yes, if you have the tools and time, it's much better to do a full cleanup job and avoid work in the future. This was filmed 6 years ago by my friend as an example of a driveway job, and how someone can do it at with minimal equipment, tools and money. The only thing I wouldn't recommend in the video is using anti seize on sliding parts as it contains grit and is not technically a lubricant, but any brake grease would do.
Indeed, the hand brake must not be applied, or else it will keep you from removing the rotor. Instead block the front wheels and leave it in first gear, or in park.
Considering the old rotor was not going to be reused, we use percussive persuasion... I it them from behind with a hammer until they let go. It depends on the models, sometimes they have philips screws in the front of the rotor keeping them in place, but most of the time the are just sandwiched between the tire and the hub, and only rust is preventing you from yanking it out. One thing to consider is that the parking brake shoes might have worn a groove if you forgot it engaged or if they were not well adjusted, so you might need to remove the access (visible at 0:42) and rotate the adjuster at the bottom of the assembly until the parking shoes (visible at 0:45) move towards each other.
This generation has disks at all 4 wheels, ventilated in the front and solid in the rear. However older generations may have drums in the rear and other countries may have different options, but here in Canada, lancers older then 2008 has disk brakes all around.
SG Cars ah ok i have a 2012 lancer fitted with drum only so im thinking to swap for disc brake. so it seems the drum brake must not be removed and can fit the calliper too on it ?
Oh, I think I misunderstood you, you mean the drum brakes inside the disk brakes. I'm sorry for the confusion, but those cars use the disk for normal braking and also has drums in the middle of the disk for the parking brake when you pull the ebrake. So the inner shoes shouldn't need replacing.
The drum part is only used for the hand or parking brake on the CJ Lancer, which this is. In normal driving when you step on the brakes it uses the 4 discs, this is normal for many cars as hydrophilic disc brakes are unsuitable for the hand brake.
You remove the bottom one and just back out the top bolt until it's not threaded in anymore but don't try to take it out around the brake line. Then you can pivot the caliper up and push it out of the bracket with the pin still in. Once the caliper is out and the top pin is backed out so that it is not threaded anymore, the pin will be able to come out at an angle around the brake line. Not the best design, but it's similar for many cars.
Just ran though this on my 2012 lancer. It was very difficult to lift the caliper as shown after removing the bottom pin. There was also some uneven wear on the old pads. I assume this means my caliper pins aren't moving well? After installing the new rotor and pads I notice some smell and my wheel is quite hard to turn. I think the caliper is sticking some. Any idea how to go about removing that top pin to lubricate without messing with the brake lines? The bolt seems really close to the brake line.
Yes absolutely, I cooked my front brakes for the same reason, the slide pins were stuck. I highly suggest you pull out your slide pins, wipe them clean and apply new brake grease to avoid uneven wear and to avoid warping your rotors. I recently changed the front rotors on my Impreza and the were terrible! (I forgot to press record on the camera, but that's virtually the same process as on the Lancer). As for my suggestions, I would say, unbolt the caliper free and don't be too afraid about the brake line, just avoid letting the caliper dangling on the brake line. Use string, a zip tie or even duct tape (On my impreza I can just let it rest ton top of the dust shield without any attachment). I'm not sure about the slide pin because this is my friend's car, but I think the caliper bolt itself is the slide pin, you may have to investigate and event pull the rubber boot. One last thing, look at my new video about the rear brakes of my Impreza, I show the process in more details, as well as the pin lubrication. That's similar to what you will have to do: th-cam.com/video/_FQKrtoLtKw/w-d-xo.html
that pin is a pain in the nuts, i rounded mine off. still stuck in there and rounded off a bit now cause you cant fit a boxend between the bolt and the brake line
Rob Kaune yup totally what I ran into. I ended up just leaving that top pin in the caliper after removing the lower one. I banged the pin out of where it was seated by hitting on the caliper with a punch while wiggling it back and forth at the same time if that makes sense. I then cleaned the caliper bracket hole and put a new bushing and lubricated it and seems to be ok now. I will probably replace the caliper and bracket at a later time
I'm glad you found a way to get it out, It also happened to me a few times. Now I grease those pins anytime I have them apart. Badly lubricated slide pins are the main cause of uneven brake pads wear.
Of course, in 10 years here care lose almost all value due to corrosion, nobody wants to work on a 10 yar old car, nuts gets fused to their threads and becomes a bolt! to give you an example, here's a very common 10 year old Mazda 3 in Canada: goo.gl/davcQH
No necessarily, during normal use they shouldn't wear as the are designed to hold a static friction from a parked state, as opposed to the dynamic friction of a brake designed to slow your car down. What I should have done is to show how to adjust the original shoes to the new drum surface through the rubber plug in the disk's drum.
I don't know, I don't have the service manual for that car. If you are looking for a direct replacement, you should talk to a parts seller, and if you are trying a custom fit you should ask the question on a Mitsubishi community forum, then be ready to return the parts if they don't fit.
Oui, la Lancer appartiens à mon ami Marc-André (celui qui varge le pad avec un marteau), moi j'ai l'Impreza, et on a tous les deux le même modèle de cric, in serait peut-être temps que je que je me trouver un meilleur cric, depuis ce temps que je l'ai...
This was an old tutorial for cheap maintenance in a parking lot, but if I did it today, I would do a full maintenance with the brake replacement and regreased everything. Watch my latest video for a better example.
@@sgcars6731 Ouaip! Je pense que j'ai soit: pas crinquer assez la patente. Ou bien quand j'essaie de tourner ça fonctionne pas. Je dois regosser la dessus. Merci. quand est-ce tu sait si tu a assez crinqué ou pas???
@@ducaking Quand la roue est levée, elle devrait tourner librement, quand tu crinque trop les sabots frottent et créent de la résistance, dans ce cas reviens jusqu'à ce que la roue tourne librement à nouveau et le frein à main devrait maintenant freiner solidement. La quantité d'ajustement requise dépend des dimensions internes du disque, quand j'ai changé les freins arrière de mon Subaru, le vendeur m'a donné des disques qui étaient de la bonne dimension (les freins fonctionnaient) mais le tambour dans le disque était beaucoup trop large pour les sabots, il s'était trompé de modèle... j'ai du recommencer ma job de freins, et comme tu peux voir sur mon plus récent vidéo, j'ai même pas eu besoin de toucher à l'ajustement cette fois.
@@sgcars6731 je vais jouer la dedans aujourd'hui. la météo était trop belle hier. J'ai pas changé les sabots du frein a main.....je vais peut-etre le faire
caliper bracket bolts at 41ftlbs +- 3ftlb (REAR ONLY) caliper slider pins are 32ftlbs +- 4ftlb (REAR ONLY) for a 2011 lancer if your car is any different these specs may be inaccurate. information from a professional software used by mechanics, i used to be a Mitsubishi tech and they are pretty accurate numbers from the manufacturers manual as i recall
thats why my slide pin is jame on my caliper her just slide the caliper at up switch brake and slide on back hum thats not good for slide pine is not working
I'm not sure I understood correctly, but as far as I know, on those rear brakes the caliper is sliding on the smooth part of the bolt, so there shouldn't be any damage. If your caliper pins are jammed, consider cleaning the pins and applying some new brake grease.
or go into garage and change the caliper the guys in the garage just put a rachet and try to remove slide pine and the bolt broken inside box rachet so the slide pine is solder on the caliper but you know what my last piston on my last caliper not working enyways so the garage change to way back and now im happy the rear break working great and my car the motor dont forced again cause when my break sticking the motor forced to much for help the car to go thats not good but now haha is great but thanks for share the videos but we need remove the two slide pines when you changed your break
dont make vids with magic in car repairing especially in the important part most of us are not magician. i give u 1 👍🏼 instead of half i cant find in the icon though maybe its also magic!🤦🏻♂️
Inside the disk there is a drum brake used only by the parking brake. This hole allows you to access the parking brakes shoes to the drum surface of the new rotor. The manufacturing tolerance may change the parking brake lever feeling (too tight or too lose), that's why you may adjust it if needed, although I had luck on mine and didn't need to.
In Canada we put salts on the roads to melt the ice, it's excessively corrosive, so unless you paint it every few years wire brushing it wouldn't last it takes too much time just to see it as rusted out the next year. I tried painting my rotor once but it didn't last, the best is to use rustproof premium component but they are more expensive. Anyway, I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
No, they aren't stuck, they got plenty of meat left since it's a static park brake (no dynamic friction). In Canada we put salts on the roads to melt the ice, it's excessively corrosive, so rust is to be expected on bare metal surfaces.
Worst brake job ever, should be done by a real mechanic who knows what he is doing. My god, did not even cleaned anything...And the antisize on the rubber bushing nonononononononononono
This video was made years ago for people who wanted to replace their brakes on their driveway with minimal tools and on a limited budget. I need to add that if you are having trouble pulling the rotor out because it's stuck to the hub from some rust, and you are not reusing that old rotor, you may hammer it from behind. If that still doesn't work, make sure the parking brake was not applied first (if it was applied, try removing the rotor again), and if not then you may loosen the parking brake tension by removing the access plug (as seen on 3:03) and rotating that access hole to the bottom, then try to turn the adjustment wheel inside the hole with a flat head screwdriver, in order to pull the two parking brake shoes together an free the rotor. Also, don't use anti seize on sliding parts as it contains grit and anti seize is not a lubricant, so use a silicone brake lubricant.
The part that I needed is the magic one 😫
We on the same page
Hit it with a hammer to loosen it
The "magic" involves a hammer
@crocodile2006 it's called "percussive maintenance"! I believe the issue was the parking brake being engaged, but I agree that for someone who's rotor was rusted to the hub might need advice on how to hammer it out.
Thank you for explaining these great details.
I could pick holes all day in this but lets take a look at the main fails
Clean it up.
Clean the pad carrier with a wire brush, it takes seconds to do but ensures the pad can slide freely when refitted.
Clean the guide pins and the guide holes of old grease.
Check the guide seals for cracks, they cost pennies to replace.
Coppaslip is ok if its the real thing, rated to 1100'c but I use ceramic brake grease, rated to 1600'c.
It costs the same to buy and matches the manufacturer spec and whichever you use dont smear it in the pads, they are meant for grip.
Buy service tools, a caliper windback tool will last for a lot of brake jobs.
And a Hammer ?
A small pry-bar would have popped that pad out of the carrier, no need to batter it.
If that is your first brake change, good effort!
Yes, if you have the tools and time, it's much better to do a full cleanup job and avoid work in the future. This was filmed 6 years ago by my friend as an example of a driveway job, and how someone can do it at with minimal equipment, tools and money. The only thing I wouldn't recommend in the video is using anti seize on sliding parts as it contains grit and is not technically a lubricant, but any brake grease would do.
Did you not lose the e brake for the rootor to get off?
Indeed, the hand brake must not be applied, or else it will keep you from removing the rotor. Instead block the front wheels and leave it in first gear, or in park.
How did u get off the rotor ????
Considering the old rotor was not going to be reused, we use percussive persuasion... I it them from behind with a hammer until they let go. It depends on the models, sometimes they have philips screws in the front of the rotor keeping them in place, but most of the time the are just sandwiched between the tire and the hub, and only rust is preventing you from yanking it out. One thing to consider is that the parking brake shoes might have worn a groove if you forgot it engaged or if they were not well adjusted, so you might need to remove the access (visible at 0:42) and rotate the adjuster at the bottom of the assembly until the parking shoes (visible at 0:45) move towards each other.
this lancer come with both Drum and disc brake together ? sorry to ask am new to lancer
This generation has disks at all 4 wheels, ventilated in the front and solid in the rear. However older generations may have drums in the rear and other countries may have different options, but here in Canada, lancers older then 2008 has disk brakes all around.
SG Cars ah ok i have a 2012 lancer fitted with drum only so im thinking to swap for disc brake. so it seems the drum brake must not be removed and can fit the calliper too on it ?
Oh, I think I misunderstood you, you mean the drum brakes inside the disk brakes. I'm sorry for the confusion, but those cars use the disk for normal braking and also has drums in the middle of the disk for the parking brake when you pull the ebrake. So the inner shoes shouldn't need replacing.
The drum part is only used for the hand or parking brake on the CJ Lancer, which this is. In normal driving when you step on the brakes it uses the 4 discs, this is normal for many cars as hydrophilic disc brakes are unsuitable for the hand brake.
How the hell do you get the top caliber bracket bolt off with the brake line in the way?
You remove the bottom one and just back out the top bolt until it's not threaded in anymore but don't try to take it out around the brake line. Then you can pivot the caliper up and push it out of the bracket with the pin still in. Once the caliper is out and the top pin is backed out so that it is not threaded anymore, the pin will be able to come out at an angle around the brake line. Not the best design, but it's similar for many cars.
Magic part, he was embarrassed to say he left the hand break on
Is it a big deal if the adjustment plugs are missing?
Not really if you don't care about your parking brake seizing just stops water/dirt from getting inside
Put duct tape or silver tape over it. When you put the wheel back on, it will protect or cover the hole for you.
@@JodBronson that reply stiffened up my root
@@philforbes7467 - *Yea, cause you have no brain! Hahahahahahaha...* 😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️
Just ran though this on my 2012 lancer. It was very difficult to lift the caliper as shown after removing the bottom pin. There was also some uneven wear on the old pads. I assume this means my caliper pins aren't moving well? After installing the new rotor and pads I notice some smell and my wheel is quite hard to turn. I think the caliper is sticking some. Any idea how to go about removing that top pin to lubricate without messing with the brake lines? The bolt seems really close to the brake line.
Yes absolutely, I cooked my front brakes for the same reason, the slide pins were stuck. I highly suggest you pull out your slide pins, wipe them clean and apply new brake grease to avoid uneven wear and to avoid warping your rotors. I recently changed the front rotors on my Impreza and the were terrible! (I forgot to press record on the camera, but that's virtually the same process as on the Lancer).
As for my suggestions, I would say, unbolt the caliper free and don't be too afraid about the brake line, just avoid letting the caliper dangling on the brake line. Use string, a zip tie or even duct tape (On my impreza I can just let it rest ton top of the dust shield without any attachment). I'm not sure about the slide pin because this is my friend's car, but I think the caliper bolt itself is the slide pin, you may have to investigate and event pull the rubber boot.
One last thing, look at my new video about the rear brakes of my Impreza, I show the process in more details, as well as the pin lubrication. That's similar to what you will have to do: th-cam.com/video/_FQKrtoLtKw/w-d-xo.html
that pin is a pain in the nuts, i rounded mine off. still stuck in there and rounded off a bit now cause you cant fit a boxend between the bolt and the brake line
Rob Kaune yup totally what I ran into. I ended up just leaving that top pin in the caliper after removing the lower one. I banged the pin out of where it was seated by hitting on the caliper with a punch while wiggling it back and forth at the same time if that makes sense. I then cleaned the caliper bracket hole and put a new bushing and lubricated it and seems to be ok now. I will probably replace the caliper and bracket at a later time
I'm glad you found a way to get it out, It also happened to me a few times. Now I grease those pins anytime I have them apart. Badly lubricated slide pins are the main cause of uneven brake pads wear.
Did this to my 2012 gt and later the outer pads came out while driving.
My CJ Lancer is 2 years older than this but the brakes look like new, I guess its down to climate, Australia v Canada?
Of course, in 10 years here care lose almost all value due to corrosion, nobody wants to work on a 10 yar old car, nuts gets fused to their threads and becomes a bolt! to give you an example, here's a very common 10 year old Mazda 3 in Canada: goo.gl/davcQH
Do they use salt on the roads in Canada? In Sweden they do. Destroys the car totally. Both Undercarriage and the paint.
@@swedishguitarist1 Yes so much salts... I have my car professional rust treated each year and in my videos people mistake it for a dirty underbody.
What size rotor?
Always clean the hub..
Are the rear pads smaller than front pads
Yes
The passanger side rear brake top bolt wont come out cause there's the brake line right there
Yes, hopefully you will be able to rotate the caliper like in the video.
@@sgcars6731 theother bolt is stripped. Actually both are. Damn
I think you should have replaced the E brake pads and hardware at the same time....
No necessarily, during normal use they shouldn't wear as the are designed to hold a static friction from a parked state, as opposed to the dynamic friction of a brake designed to slow your car down. What I should have done is to show how to adjust the original shoes to the new drum surface through the rubber plug in the disk's drum.
Pins wont even slide out if mine seized solid
Do you have to remove the rotor to get to the back brake pad ?
No, at 35 seconds in the video you can see Marc removing the back brake pad before removing the rotor.
He removed the rotor because he needs to change it..but pads can be changed without removing rotor..cheers
i can install rear brake of 302x10mm and front of 294x26mm?
I don't know, I don't have the service manual for that car. If you are looking for a direct replacement, you should talk to a parts seller, and if you are trying a custom fit you should ask the question on a Mitsubishi community forum, then be ready to return the parts if they don't fit.
c'est un cric Canadian Tire?? Je savais j'avais entendu du québécois!!!
Oui, la Lancer appartiens à mon ami Marc-André (celui qui varge le pad avec un marteau), moi j'ai l'Impreza, et on a tous les deux le même modèle de cric, in serait peut-être temps que je que je me trouver un meilleur cric, depuis ce temps que je l'ai...
@@sgcars6731 Good! Tant que le cric fonctionne bien... ça sert a rien de le changer
What about the other slide pin ? U didnt put grease on that 😆
This was an old tutorial for cheap maintenance in a parking lot, but if I did it today, I would do a full maintenance with the brake replacement and regreased everything. Watch my latest video for a better example.
I didn’t know you were a magician. Delete this video mate haha
what's the size of the rear caliper bolt?
I'm sorry I don't remember. A metric socket set of 10mm to 17mm should have all the required sizes.
14 mm
I have a hard time to adjust the parking brake.
Did you pop the rubber grommet on the drum and use a screw driver to turn the adjustment cog?
@@sgcars6731 Ouaip! Je pense que j'ai soit: pas crinquer assez la patente. Ou bien quand j'essaie de tourner ça fonctionne pas. Je dois regosser la dessus. Merci. quand est-ce tu sait si tu a assez crinqué ou pas???
@@ducaking Quand la roue est levée, elle devrait tourner librement, quand tu crinque trop les sabots frottent et créent de la résistance, dans ce cas reviens jusqu'à ce que la roue tourne librement à nouveau et le frein à main devrait maintenant freiner solidement. La quantité d'ajustement requise dépend des dimensions internes du disque, quand j'ai changé les freins arrière de mon Subaru, le vendeur m'a donné des disques qui étaient de la bonne dimension (les freins fonctionnaient) mais le tambour dans le disque était beaucoup trop large pour les sabots, il s'était trompé de modèle... j'ai du recommencer ma job de freins, et comme tu peux voir sur mon plus récent vidéo, j'ai même pas eu besoin de toucher à l'ajustement cette fois.
@@sgcars6731 je vais jouer la dedans aujourd'hui. la météo était trop belle hier. J'ai pas changé les sabots du frein a main.....je vais peut-etre le faire
You should have clean the calliper and paint it..
''ya des fourmis après'' 😂
Got any torque specs for the slide bolts?
caliper bracket bolts at 41ftlbs +- 3ftlb (REAR ONLY)
caliper slider pins are 32ftlbs +- 4ftlb (REAR ONLY)
for a 2011 lancer if your car is any different these specs may be inaccurate. information from a professional software used by mechanics, i used to be a Mitsubishi tech and they are pretty accurate numbers from the manufacturers manual as i recall
thats why my slide pin is jame on my caliper her just slide the caliper at up switch brake and slide on back hum thats not good for slide pine is not working
I'm not sure I understood correctly, but as far as I know, on those rear brakes the caliper is sliding on the smooth part of the bolt, so there shouldn't be any damage. If your caliper pins are jammed, consider cleaning the pins and applying some new brake grease.
or go into garage and change the caliper the guys in the garage just put a rachet and try to remove slide pine and the bolt broken inside box rachet so the slide pine is solder on the caliper but you know what my last piston on my last caliper not working enyways so the garage change to way back and now im happy the rear break working great and my car the motor dont forced again cause when my break sticking the motor forced to much for help the car to go thats not good but now haha is great but thanks for share the videos but we need remove the two slide pines when you changed your break
I agree, it's better to remove both pins clean and grease them to make sure they don't get stuck.
From Brakes
dont make vids with magic in car repairing especially in the important part most of us are not magician. i give u 1 👍🏼 instead of half i cant find in the icon though maybe its also magic!🤦🏻♂️
what do the adjustment plug do??
Inside the disk there is a drum brake used only by the parking brake. This hole allows you to access the parking brakes shoes to the drum surface of the new rotor. The manufacturing tolerance may change the parking brake lever feeling (too tight or too lose), that's why you may adjust it if needed, although I had luck on mine and didn't need to.
J’avais même pas remarqué que tu parlais français
Damm bro I would have wire brush the heck of all that there before re-assembly, but thanks cool video
In Canada we put salts on the roads to melt the ice, it's excessively corrosive, so unless you paint it every few years wire brushing it wouldn't last it takes too much time just to see it as rusted out the next year. I tried painting my rotor once but it didn't last, the best is to use rustproof premium component but they are more expensive. Anyway, I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
Did you just touch the brake pad surface with your greasy dirty mechanic glove?
Yes, I think he did, as best practice I wouldn't do this but it doesn't really matter since, in small amounts, oily residue will simply burn off.
It looks like you need a new shoes too man they look rosty
No, they aren't stuck, they got plenty of meat left since it's a static park brake (no dynamic friction). In Canada we put salts on the roads to melt the ice, it's excessively corrosive, so rust is to be expected on bare metal surfaces.
Youre what a messy boy?Clean up the hand brake drum with brake cleaner spray before replacement.
Worst brake job ever, should be done by a real mechanic who knows what he is doing. My god, did not even cleaned anything...And the antisize on the rubber bushing nonononononononononono
Doesn't help