I looked up your video to take the driveline out and you made it look easy. So as I was doing it, I was joking to myself, “it’s just going to slide out with no problem hahahaha.” But then it did! I was like, “oh. That actually was easy.” Lol. Thanks!
Nice! That's one of the things I try to show in my videos, most of this stuff is easier than it looks. There was a time in my life where I was intimidated on this kind of work. But after I actually turned the wrench, most of this stuff seems easier than it used to look. :)
You’ve really been pumping out the content lately Andy! I’ve enjoyed your “small/easy tasks” vids you’ve been doing. Unique to TH-cam. And helpful. I just ordered a T5 kit for my 65. I’m really looking forward to having a highway gear. :)
Yes, the TH-cam Gods demand content, I'm not in a position to argue. :) Awesome, that extra gear is so nice to have if you ever need to get above 50mph.
Great video. Just a tip- next time you have a line you can’t get the nut loose from the line, spray between nut and line with penetrating oil like PB Blasters and then work it back and fourth and generally 9 times out of 10 it’ll come loose and you won’t damage the line. Keep up the good work!
Great video and perfect timing. I’m going to R&R mine and have been procrastinating. I know it isn’t “easy” to pull it out, but you’ve shown that it’s really straight-forward. Thanks.
Yeah, it's easy to psych our selves out of doing something because there's a lot of steps. But once you see a short video on how to do it, it makes it easier to visualize the process and make a game plan to do the work. :)
That's hey "they" get ya! I've been trying to make the Monday videos less of a 'mod' or less of a bigger deal, and just trying to cover the smaller updates and upgrades we do on our cars. I don't even show my face, and I don't spend a bunch of time at the beginning of the video explaining the project. They're also meant to be a shorter format too, something simple and then something bigger on Thursday. Well, that' the plan at least. :)
What a great video Andy, especially the tip about the Locktite causing the oil splatter and drips. I've been thinking I may have a seal leak but it absolutely could just be this same issue! As always, keep it up!!
Thank you this was helpful.getting ready to do this on a 73 e300 with the way it's built thankfully I won't have to remove so much stuff to get to everything.
Thanks! Yes, I go over all the parts needed for the swap. I even explain a little about which T5 to get for these cars. For reference, I did the T5 swap on my last Mustang where I had the 'wrong" T5 for the swap and covered it all in a video. In that video I explain the differences and what it takes to make the '94-'04 T5 works in these cars. For my current Mustang, I sourced the "correct" T5 and it was easier and cheaper to do the swap with the '83-'93 T5 Transmission. :)
Funny I have an 88 foxbody coupe with freshly built t5 and kinda wish I would've pulled the trigger on a automatic swap! This is what you wanted so I know you'll enjoy😎
Haha, thanks! I procrastinate plenty, I've got parts here at the house for my next mod and I keep finding excuses not to start the project. :) It really is fairly simple to remove the C4 from these cars. Someone could easily use a standard floor jack under the trans if they didn't have an official transmission jack. And everything can be done with the standard tools we all have in our tool box. The hard part is finding a T5 for a good price. They're getting harder to find and the prices keep going up.
@@flyingfruitbats Ugh, at that price it makes you want to question the whole project. Is that price just for the Trans? Or is that the price to do the swap?
@@AndyKruseChannel admittedly its a worked unit, but the T5 seems rather expensive, where did you get yours from? Did you get help choosing the right unit or are they all the same? Think this is something I'd like to do. But I'd also like to install a Borla 8 Stack efi or a Paxton, those and the T5 are rather expensive mods though... mines only a 289 as well.
@@flyingfruitbats I purchased this T5 from a local guy on Facebook. On my previous car I purchased that T5 off Craigslist, also from a local guy. The T5s are mostly the same, but there is a difference in the '94 - '04 units that make it slightly harder to install on the Classic Mustang. I cover these differences in part 2 of this video, but I also talk about it in the video I did last year when I put a T5 in my last Mustang. That video is worth a watch, and also next weeks video. :)
Small piece of advice, whenever possible, wrench on a nut not a bolt. ie, cross member, put the ratchet on the nut, not the bolt head. Great content and video work.
Andy. Fantastic video. Lighting is perfect. Commentary is perfect. Shows a lot of work on your part. Question: You say that oil is being flung inside the flywheel area that appears as a rear-seal leak. Where does the oil come from? Thanks. Russ
Thanks! The bolt holes in the end of the crank shaft for the flywheel/flexplate go through the crank and into the oil area. Oil likes to find its way out of where ever it is, and along the threads of these bolts is a great place. Putting some loctite (or equivalent) on the threads during installation will remove that as a location for the oil to escape. It's not like you'll lose all your oil from these bolts, but over time it can build up and appear like a rear main seal leak.
I'm about to take on this same project as soon as my swap kit gets delivered, I'm so excited. This is the number one thing I've wanted to do since I bought the car, the C4 sucks. I've replaced the shifter shaft seal three time and it still leaks. Question, what do you have to do with the neutral safety switch, just unplug it?
You can choose to leave it unplugged (from the car), or remove it from the transmission, or wire it up so the car won’t start without being in neutral. The function of the switch has no effect on the transmission if it’s connected to the car or not.
@@AndyKruseChannel Alright cool thanks for the info. I just wanted to be sure if I unplugged it from the car it didn't take away the ability for the car to crank over.
Hi Andy, nice video! I own 68 with 302 and C4, but I'm not decided yet to transfer to manual because of costs and I'm in Europe so everything will be double in price, and also waiting for parts, something missing etc. In recent time I notice jittering start in 1st speed at a little bit higher RPMs, for example, when I first start the car and the engine is not worm up, and the RPMs are high or when I press little bit hard on throttle - the transmission is struggling to catch the 1st gear. Can you give me advice what can be the problem? Oil level is ok. Cheers!
Wow, it's tough to say what's going on your with C4 as I am not as familiar with them as the T5. Based on what you described, I wonder if there's something wrong with your torque converter? You say the oil level is fine, so we can rule out engagement issues based on fluid. Sorry brotha, I'm not much help right now. :)
Just an FYI, I've learned on another web site, and on my 5speed upgrade, that you want to use a 4speed shifting boot, from a '69/'70 Mustang. They are longer to cover (w)hole shifter cut out. You may have experienced that from your last 5 speed upgrade.
Thanks for the heads up. I used the same shifter boot on my last car (which fit fine on the last car) but it's not perfect for this car. But, it has to do with the shifter assembly I went with on this car, so I may look into your recommended boot. :)
Hey Andy, I finally got a t5 of my own! Been getting opinions from members of the community, what fluid do you use in your T5? I've heard everything from gear oil to ATF!
Tremec recommends only running ATF in their T5 transmissions. It's counter intuitive to put automatic transmission fluid in a manual transmission, but it's what they say to put in there. I used just under 3 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in my T5. :)
I just watched this video and previously I watched your hydraulic clutch coupe video. I am changing my 65 fastback from a C4 to a 1989 T5. You didn't go into a lot of detail as to why you went back to a cable clutch. I get the "feel" of the cable clutch, but is it a lot better feel than hydraulic? I have Tri-Ys and was going to go the hydraulic route due to your melting issue. So my question is should I abandon the Tr Ys for shorties and go with the cable clutch, or keep the Tri Ys and go hydraulic?
At the time I made this video, I felt that the cable clutch actuation was where I wanted to be. It's also a cheaper option compared to the hydraulic, so it fit my budget at the time. I have since upgraded to the hydraulic clutch on this car and I wish I would have just done that from the beginning. It would have been cheaper in the long run, and the hydraulic actuation is so buttery smooth, I cannot see myself going back to a Cable or Z-Bar option. I have the Z-bar-style clutch in my F100 and I've got the hydraulic clutch on my list of future upgrades. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the follow up. I have the 65 twin to your car by the way. It's nice to see someone doing the exact same upgrades. T5, 3.55 rear, hydraulic clutch etc. Great videos!
can you remove the transmission without taking the starter off? I replaced mine with one of the smaller types like you have/had, and as you know it is a pain to get to. also, did you drain the coolant?
Unfortunately no, this is because the two bolts for the starter go into the bellhousing. You do not need to drain the coolant to remove the transmission. :)
I purchased the T5 from a local guy on Facebook. If I had a larger budget, I would have purchased the T5 from MDL, probably would have gone with a T5Z.
Hey Andy! After the T5 swap, did you notice any issues with vibrations? That’s been something I’ve been trying to chase down on my car after I did the V8 swap and T5 conversion.
On my last car I had a small vibration that I eventually narrowed down to an improperly balanced flywheel. I tried to save a few bucks and buy a cheaper unit on Summit Racing, and I ended up returning it and just buying the good stuff from MDL. Summit was awesome though, they took it back without any issues. On this car, I am not finding any vibration issues like last. Plus, I went straight to MDL for the flywheel, skipping the chance of getting another faulty flywheel by trying to save a few bucks. :)
@@johnjuarez8005 I'm noticing a vibration in the seat at highway speeds, so like around 70-80 MPH. I've swapped over to a 3.5in aluminum driveshaft off junkyard ford explorer, and that reduced the vibrations, but its still there. I'm now assuming its a pinion/driveline angle issue.
This is exactly what I've been researching for some time now. Excellent video, thanks! If you wanna sell the center console and willing to ship I might be interested ;)
I have about $2500 into the swap. That includes new parts, a few used parts, buying other parts because I'm an idiot, me doing the work (especially on the trans rebuild), and getting a great deal on the T5. There are somethings that need to get purchased new and from reputable sources. MDL is a fantastic resource for this swap, I used them for a lot of parts on this swap, and a lot of parts on this swap on my previous Mustang. The largest chunk of your budget will be the T5. Buying new is fantastic if you have the funds, and a TKX from MDL would be the best if your budget allows. Other than doing a rebuild on the Trans, this is absolutely something someone could do if the have the basic tools. This video and the video I did on my last Mustang both outline the process of the swap, it's not as tedious as one would think. Good luck!!
Wow, that's a tough one. Everything I can think of doesn't make sense if reverse works but not the forward gears without high RPMs. Sorry I'm not much help.
tranny leaks, just filled it. When i jack it up, rear wheels spins when in gear, not sure what's goin on. I live about an hour north of Seattle, don't really know any transmission shops around. thanks for videos, learning a ton from you. Cheers!
Good question. First, the C4 that was in there did not come with the car from the factory. The car was originally a manual car. However, it obviously did not come the factory with a T5 that I swapped in there, so there's that. But the big thing is I'm not restoring this car to OEM status, so anything I do could technically de-value the car, but only to those looking to buy an all original car. Since I don't plan to sell the car, I'm not worried about it either way. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I don't know for sure but I think whatever is done if it's done with quality I don't think it would devalue a car especially if a buyer is looking for what you modified.... By the way great video thanks for your reply
I looked up your video to take the driveline out and you made it look easy. So as I was doing it, I was joking to myself, “it’s just going to slide out with no problem hahahaha.” But then it did! I was like, “oh. That actually was easy.” Lol. Thanks!
Nice! That's one of the things I try to show in my videos, most of this stuff is easier than it looks. There was a time in my life where I was intimidated on this kind of work. But after I actually turned the wrench, most of this stuff seems easier than it used to look. :)
You’ve really been pumping out the content lately Andy! I’ve enjoyed your “small/easy tasks” vids you’ve been doing. Unique to TH-cam. And helpful.
I just ordered a T5 kit for my 65. I’m really looking forward to having a highway gear. :)
Yes, the TH-cam Gods demand content, I'm not in a position to argue. :)
Awesome, that extra gear is so nice to have if you ever need to get above 50mph.
Great video. Just a tip- next time you have a line you can’t get the nut loose from the line, spray between nut and line with penetrating oil like PB Blasters and then work it back and fourth and generally 9 times out of 10 it’ll come loose and you won’t damage the line. Keep up the good work!
Great tip!
Great video and perfect timing. I’m going to R&R mine and have been procrastinating. I know it isn’t “easy” to pull it out, but you’ve shown that it’s really straight-forward. Thanks.
Yeah, it's easy to psych our selves out of doing something because there's a lot of steps. But once you see a short video on how to do it, it makes it easier to visualize the process and make a game plan to do the work. :)
Nice!! I like how the lead to to this moment was the led bulbs in your dash then you drop this doozie!
That's hey "they" get ya!
I've been trying to make the Monday videos less of a 'mod' or less of a bigger deal, and just trying to cover the smaller updates and upgrades we do on our cars. I don't even show my face, and I don't spend a bunch of time at the beginning of the video explaining the project. They're also meant to be a shorter format too, something simple and then something bigger on Thursday. Well, that' the plan at least. :)
Major project and i am here for it!
It was easier than the last time I did it. :)
What a great video Andy, especially the tip about the Locktite causing the oil splatter and drips. I've been thinking I may have a seal leak but it absolutely could just be this same issue! As always, keep it up!!
Thanks!
Yeah, those flywheel bolts can be an annoying problem, and it's only worse if someone puts a lot of miles on their car.
So happy I came across this video been thinking about manual swapping my 72 Torino
Awesome, you can do it, good luck!!
Thank you this was helpful.getting ready to do this on a 73 e300 with the way it's built thankfully I won't have to remove so much stuff to get to everything.
No problem 👍
Good stuff Andy….look forward to the next video and hopefully info how/where you sourced all the conversion parts
Thanks!
Yes, I go over all the parts needed for the swap. I even explain a little about which T5 to get for these cars. For reference, I did the T5 swap on my last Mustang where I had the 'wrong" T5 for the swap and covered it all in a video. In that video I explain the differences and what it takes to make the '94-'04 T5 works in these cars. For my current Mustang, I sourced the "correct" T5 and it was easier and cheaper to do the swap with the '83-'93 T5 Transmission. :)
Funny I have an 88 foxbody coupe with freshly built t5 and kinda wish I would've pulled the trigger on a automatic swap! This is what you wanted so I know you'll enjoy😎
There are vehicles that I prefer to have an Auto in the car, but this is one that I prefer the Manual. :)
No doubt hard to find cars I waited 20 years to finally get a decent car for a decent price 👊🇺🇲💪🐎🚗🔧
Truth.
Waiting with baited breath for part 2 , great information as always 👍
Thanks 👍
Cool, considering this for my 68, removing looked simpler than i thought. You clearly don't procrastinate as much as I do.... Nice job
Haha, thanks! I procrastinate plenty, I've got parts here at the house for my next mod and I keep finding excuses not to start the project. :)
It really is fairly simple to remove the C4 from these cars. Someone could easily use a standard floor jack under the trans if they didn't have an official transmission jack. And everything can be done with the standard tools we all have in our tool box. The hard part is finding a T5 for a good price. They're getting harder to find and the prices keep going up.
@@AndyKruseChannel yep, $8,000 down here :)
@@flyingfruitbats Ugh, at that price it makes you want to question the whole project. Is that price just for the Trans? Or is that the price to do the swap?
@@AndyKruseChannel admittedly its a worked unit, but the T5 seems rather expensive, where did you get yours from? Did you get help choosing the right unit or are they all the same? Think this is something I'd like to do. But I'd also like to install a Borla 8 Stack efi or a Paxton, those and the T5 are rather expensive mods though... mines only a 289 as well.
@@flyingfruitbats I purchased this T5 from a local guy on Facebook. On my previous car I purchased that T5 off Craigslist, also from a local guy. The T5s are mostly the same, but there is a difference in the '94 - '04 units that make it slightly harder to install on the Classic Mustang. I cover these differences in part 2 of this video, but I also talk about it in the video I did last year when I put a T5 in my last Mustang. That video is worth a watch, and also next weeks video. :)
Awesome. I'm doing the opposite, removing the manual and installing the automatic. I'll just watch these in reverse!
Lol, that might actually work. :)
C4 or AOD?
knew this one was coming congrats! thats a lot of parts to buy too! and a lot of work plus video and editing of it. sheesh your a busy dude.
Ha, tell me about it! But, that's part of the fun. I had been collecting parts for a while and eventually I had enough to get'r done! :)
Small piece of advice, whenever possible, wrench on a nut not a bolt. ie, cross member, put the ratchet on the nut, not the bolt head. Great content and video work.
Thanks for the info. :)
Thanks Andy, my 66 is an auto also and I think about changing it for a 5 speed love the video
Awesome, I glad this might help you make that leap! :)
Nice torque thrust American racing wheels!
Thanks! Don't forget to checkout the wheel caps you can buy for them! :)
Andy.
Fantastic video.
Lighting is perfect.
Commentary is perfect.
Shows a lot of work on your part.
Question: You say that oil is being flung inside the flywheel area that appears as a rear-seal leak. Where does the oil come from?
Thanks.
Russ
Thanks!
The bolt holes in the end of the crank shaft for the flywheel/flexplate go through the crank and into the oil area. Oil likes to find its way out of where ever it is, and along the threads of these bolts is a great place. Putting some loctite (or equivalent) on the threads during installation will remove that as a location for the oil to escape. It's not like you'll lose all your oil from these bolts, but over time it can build up and appear like a rear main seal leak.
@@AndyKruseChannel Much appreciated.
I have exactly that situation after changing the rear seal. Enlightening!
Great work as always Andy!
Thank you! Cheers!
I'm about to take on this same project as soon as my swap kit gets delivered, I'm so excited. This is the number one thing I've wanted to do since I bought the car, the C4 sucks. I've replaced the shifter shaft seal three time and it still leaks. Question, what do you have to do with the neutral safety switch, just unplug it?
You can choose to leave it unplugged (from the car), or remove it from the transmission, or wire it up so the car won’t start without being in neutral. The function of the switch has no effect on the transmission if it’s connected to the car or not.
@@AndyKruseChannel Alright cool thanks for the info. I just wanted to be sure if I unplugged it from the car it didn't take away the ability for the car to crank over.
Hi Andy, nice video! I own 68 with 302 and C4, but I'm not decided yet to transfer to manual because of costs and I'm in Europe so everything will be double in price, and also waiting for parts, something missing etc. In recent time I notice jittering start in 1st speed at a little bit higher RPMs, for example, when I first start the car and the engine is not worm up, and the RPMs are high or when I press little bit hard on throttle - the transmission is struggling to catch the 1st gear. Can you give me advice what can be the problem? Oil level is ok. Cheers!
Wow, it's tough to say what's going on your with C4 as I am not as familiar with them as the T5. Based on what you described, I wonder if there's something wrong with your torque converter? You say the oil level is fine, so we can rule out engagement issues based on fluid. Sorry brotha, I'm not much help right now. :)
Very well done Andy ! Thank you !!
Thank you too!
Just an FYI, I've learned on another web site, and on my 5speed upgrade, that you want to use a 4speed shifting boot, from a '69/'70 Mustang. They are longer to cover (w)hole shifter cut out. You may have experienced that from your last 5 speed upgrade.
Thanks for the heads up. I used the same shifter boot on my last car (which fit fine on the last car) but it's not perfect for this car. But, it has to do with the shifter assembly I went with on this car, so I may look into your recommended boot. :)
Hey Andy, nice video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey Andy, I finally got a t5 of my own! Been getting opinions from members of the community, what fluid do you use in your T5? I've heard everything from gear oil to ATF!
Tremec recommends only running ATF in their T5 transmissions. It's counter intuitive to put automatic transmission fluid in a manual transmission, but it's what they say to put in there. I used just under 3 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in my T5. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel you're the second person who's word I really respect that told me ATF, ATF it is! Thanks for the response Andy, you the man!
Enjoyed the video! It was real infomercial! Come to N.C. and help me do a 1970 mustang coupe!
Haha, it would be fun to help others on their projects. I have family down there, I could make it a two-for-one special! :)
I just watched this video and previously I watched your hydraulic clutch coupe video. I am changing my 65 fastback from a C4 to a 1989 T5. You didn't go into a lot of detail as to why you went back to a cable clutch. I get the "feel" of the cable clutch, but is it a lot better feel than hydraulic? I have Tri-Ys and was going to go the hydraulic route due to your melting issue. So my question is should I abandon the Tr Ys for shorties and go with the cable clutch, or keep the Tri Ys and go hydraulic?
At the time I made this video, I felt that the cable clutch actuation was where I wanted to be. It's also a cheaper option compared to the hydraulic, so it fit my budget at the time. I have since upgraded to the hydraulic clutch on this car and I wish I would have just done that from the beginning. It would have been cheaper in the long run, and the hydraulic actuation is so buttery smooth, I cannot see myself going back to a Cable or Z-Bar option. I have the Z-bar-style clutch in my F100 and I've got the hydraulic clutch on my list of future upgrades. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the follow up. I have the 65 twin to your car by the way. It's nice to see someone doing the exact same upgrades. T5, 3.55 rear, hydraulic clutch etc. Great videos!
can you remove the transmission without taking the starter off? I replaced mine with one of the smaller types like you have/had, and as you know it is a pain to get to. also, did you drain the coolant?
Unfortunately no, this is because the two bolts for the starter go into the bellhousing.
You do not need to drain the coolant to remove the transmission. :)
Hi Andy, i´m from germany and saw your perfect video, i drive a 66 Coupe, where do you buy the t5 kit?? Thanks for the help
I found this T5 on Facebook. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you
I was worried for you when I saw how hard that transmission dropped!
Yeah, that transmission jack goes down way faster than it goes up. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yep! I have the same one
Andy i plan to do the same on my fastback, are you getting a T5 from modern driveline, or elsewhere? Id love to know where your getting your parts
I purchased the T5 from a local guy on Facebook. If I had a larger budget, I would have purchased the T5 from MDL, probably would have gone with a T5Z.
@@AndyKruseChannel are you going with a cable or hydrolic clutch?
@@AndyKruseChannel I saw that one for sale. Nice price. Too far of a drive for me but right in your neighborhood.
@@nathannelson7020 and giveaway the ending? Nope. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel please make sure you do a detailed parts list 😉
What are You using for a radio in your Mustang?
Nothing, I like just listening to the engine when I’m driving this car. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel I just installed a RetroSound w Bluetooth today if you are ever looking. Looks stock but with digital
Hey Andy! After the T5 swap, did you notice any issues with vibrations? That’s been something I’ve been trying to chase down on my car after I did the V8 swap and T5 conversion.
On my last car I had a small vibration that I eventually narrowed down to an improperly balanced flywheel. I tried to save a few bucks and buy a cheaper unit on Summit Racing, and I ended up returning it and just buying the good stuff from MDL. Summit was awesome though, they took it back without any issues.
On this car, I am not finding any vibration issues like last. Plus, I went straight to MDL for the flywheel, skipping the chance of getting another faulty flywheel by trying to save a few bucks. :)
@@johnjuarez8005 I'm noticing a vibration in the seat at highway speeds, so like around 70-80 MPH. I've swapped over to a 3.5in aluminum driveshaft off junkyard ford explorer, and that reduced the vibrations, but its still there. I'm now assuming its a pinion/driveline angle issue.
👍 Great Video!
Thanks! 👍
This is exactly what I've been researching for some time now. Excellent video, thanks! If you wanna sell the center console and willing to ship I might be interested ;)
I haven't decided what to do with it yet. Due to its size, it may be easier to sell locally. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel No problem, understood, just wanted to check.
What was the total cost of swapping from the C4 to t5 transmission?
I have about $2500 into the swap. That includes new parts, a few used parts, buying other parts because I'm an idiot, me doing the work (especially on the trans rebuild), and getting a great deal on the T5. There are somethings that need to get purchased new and from reputable sources. MDL is a fantastic resource for this swap, I used them for a lot of parts on this swap, and a lot of parts on this swap on my previous Mustang.
The largest chunk of your budget will be the T5. Buying new is fantastic if you have the funds, and a TKX from MDL would be the best if your budget allows. Other than doing a rebuild on the Trans, this is absolutely something someone could do if the have the basic tools. This video and the video I did on my last Mustang both outline the process of the swap, it's not as tedious as one would think. Good luck!!
How tall are your jack stands?
Fully extended, they're about 16 inches tall. The rear jacks can go taller, but I try to make the car level when I'm working on it. :)
my 66 coupe won't move forward in gear, reverse no problem, I have to rev it up just to move an inch, any idea or advise for a newbie? thanks
Wow, that's a tough one. Everything I can think of doesn't make sense if reverse works but not the forward gears without high RPMs. Sorry I'm not much help.
tranny leaks, just filled it. When i jack it up, rear wheels spins when in gear, not sure what's goin on. I live about an hour north of Seattle, don't really know any transmission shops around. thanks for videos, learning a ton from you. Cheers!
Did you sell the C4?
Yes, to some guy locally. :)
Can this conversion decrease the value of the car?
Good question. First, the C4 that was in there did not come with the car from the factory. The car was originally a manual car. However, it obviously did not come the factory with a T5 that I swapped in there, so there's that. But the big thing is I'm not restoring this car to OEM status, so anything I do could technically de-value the car, but only to those looking to buy an all original car. Since I don't plan to sell the car, I'm not worried about it either way. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I don't know for sure but I think whatever is done if it's done with quality I don't think it would devalue a car especially if a buyer is looking for what you modified.... By the way great video thanks for your reply
Dude you gotta slow down, I can’t keep up!! Haha.
Can't, the TH-cam Gods demand the content. Gotta keep feeding the beast! :)