If you talked for the first 15 minutes about how fast your car is and wore cool sunglasses throughout the video, randomly panning to yourself. you'd have 34M likes by now... Lol. Great video.
👋🏾😃My auto mechanic diagnosed my 2011 SUBARU OUTBACK's rumbling to the manifold. Thank you for giving me some grounding of what may be part of the problem. I appreciate all the help that I can get.😊👍🏽
Great DIY video, good camera angles, no endless rambling, subtitles while continuing to work. Professional quality that is to the point and helpful for the view. Sub'd.
Hi there From Canada. Great to see a simple video on how easy it is to get to the Exhaust manifold gaskets. Here's a point of interest you might want to do a video on, and that is for a 2010 Forester, The Manifolds heat shield rattle at cold start up. I had to lower my manifold from the Heads and remove the shield. Apparently the Manifold is packed with glass Insulation that over time begins to slowly decay. Being that this is what was causing my loud rattle during start up - sure sounded like the Connecting rod was coming loose. By Repacking the shield with new glass insulation and reinstalling the manifold Wow - It sure quieten the manifold. It also should be mentioned that this shield is quite important as it shields the heat away from the Timing belt cover and the oil filter as well. You should Share this info in a video so that other people who own this kinda manifold can be rest assured that there car can be fixed and feel confidant that there engine is not falling apart. I sure enjoy your videos, And Keep up the great production. Cheers my friend...
I love your videos and they're super helpful. I'm sure you've heard this a lot, but I hope you appreciate your southern cars. I'll do the exact same repair on my Wisconsin car, but it takes hours of extra time because every fastener is rusted into oblivion.
I'm in Wisconsin, too. Working on cars is a very different thing in the snow belt. My son's 2006 Impreza has what I am now confident is a exhaust leak. Lucky it was a Texas car. I did his brakes and installed OEM WRX springs and everything came apart as if it was my new WRX.
Thanks Mrsubaru1387. Based the first 3 quarters of this video I was able to swap out my old with new in about 15 minutes not including watching the video. :)
Did your car sound like it just got a little loud but drove the same? That what my cars doing. It sound louder like an exhaust leak but do see any when look underneath.
@@snotbubble6232 it actually turned out to be my UpPipe. It cracked and leaked through the heat shield. I would look in that area. I also had a slight power loss it felt like
Changed my gaskets, doubled them up, Still leaks.. It was a replacement after market converter and I believe the welds warped the flanges . Leaking again.
I'm gonna go have to see what's making a similar sound under my '11 Impreza tomorrow. I'm 95% sure it's that, but maybe not, however the receipts that came with the car show $2,000 for a new Y pipe (and it is clear it is not OEM, no way anything in Canada shows that little rust after 13 years) - hopefully that's it and that none of my studs snap off.
I have a 2011 aswell, Everytime I down shift and the revs go from 2500-2000 there is a very loud raspy sound that comes from the exhaust. I think it’s this. Did you find out what was wrong with it?
My biggest question was which side the nub on the ID went. Also i was thinking when you broke that stud work it back and forth. Get a wire brush. PB is better for this like that. Good stuff.
thanks for your videos! i just replaced mine, and it helped for a short while, but a few days later and im back where i started. what might be causing my gasket to blow like this?
Could be a few things, cheap gaskets, not tight enough. first thing I'd check is when you take the manifold off check the mating surface with a straight edge to make sure its flat and not warped.
MrSubaru, Thanks for all of your videos. I am currently battling the exhaust gaskets. I snapped a few of the bolts on an extremely rust, east coast, 2001 Subaru Outback VDC. I have tried heat and tons of elbow grease; the studs and not moving. They are welded in place. Is drilling them out the only way - It seems unlikely I can remove this part and take it to the shop.
Great vid, you say about po171 and po420 at start which im getting plus my sti is adding 25%+ stft on boost ! Which cant be true as 17-1 afr ! , wierd thing is my rear o2 sensor is fully rich at time this happens aswell ? Would you say exhaust leak before first o2 sensor, any info be great, thanks
I have a 2003 Subaru Forester with a nasty exhaust leak. Woke up this morning to sounding like a Mack truck. I leave before 5am so I'm sure the old folks in my quiet mountain neighborhood weren't too happy with me. Definitely coming from the manifold and hope its not too much of a hassle to fix... Time to put the ole man to work I guess. Will it always be both or can it just be one side, my left side is louder with tons of hot ass air blowing up through and my fuel efficiency is shit!!
I picked up a set of exhaust manifold gaskets for my 2008 Impreza (non-WRX) from my local Subaru dealer, and they gave me ones without the "perforation" on one side. Instead they're flat on both sides, with a raised lip around the hole on one side. The p/n is 44616AA290. Are these better/worse to use? If they're fine to use, which way should I have the side with the lip facing? Thank you!
I've used both. Had no issues. Most issues I see from that style gasket, is when they're aftermarket. I believe the "domed" side goes down, towards the manifold.
Is this front exhaust manifold? I got my first Subaru and first manual car (2003 Legacy GT wagon) recently and I LOVE it, but the previous owner installed an aftermarket exhaust system and catalytic converter that doesn't fit properly, and I need to replace the front exhaust manifold and cat, but the rear of the exhaust system is apparently fine. Is there a difference?
@@ihatesocialnetworkin make sure you inspect both surfaces well. If your doing an old Subaru such as mine, look for pitting. I cleaned my surfaces with a dremel tool and buffed the surface super clean. I had a ton of pitting on the manifold, I used Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to seal the exhaust. It worked great and have been driving the car for months without any kind of leak. The easy way to check if it's sealed, hook the hose on your shop vac on its exhaust hole then duct tape to to you muffler. Turn it on and spray the exhaust with dish soap water. Look for bubbles
MrSubaru I have a very noticeable engine tick in my new to me 09 outback. It's not the exhaust. Could it be the valve adjustment? It leaks a little as well. It also leaks oil. I was planning to do the complete head job, but could it needs more than this? Any videos on noises beyond the common ones.?
Would the process and P/N apply to an EJ207? Mine is running choppy and losing vacuum, so I suspect this may be a possibility as there is a very strong fuel smell up front in addition to the flutter/hiss sound.
I have a bone stock 2018 forester XT 51 k on it. This is second time the exhaust gaskets need to be replaced by dealer why would that be? First time occured around 28k. Should I buy aftermarket? The guy said my hold plus does not cover but his manager approved to replace for my 100 deductible.
Hy! i have a little question,i can put on my 2005 sg forester 2.0 125hp a bigger oil pan,like a 2.5 one?(i want to increase the oil capacity on my engine to keep him in a better condition for a longer time) sorry for my english. thx!
would it be better to warm up the car to expand the aluminum head and therefore help the whole stud to come out instead of trying to break the bolt loose? Or would that do nothing
I bought gasket part number 14038aa000 and both sides are solid metal surfaces but one side is flat and the other has like a dome/ rounded ring in the center Im trying to figure what side faces the head plz help
Muy buen video amigo. Me gustaría saber si al salir gases de combustión por falla de estas piezas que haz cambiado esto afectaría al motor, provocando un calentamiento por exceder los 120 km/hr. Gracias
Hey man, you wouldn't happen to have the PN for the manifold stud that you said was broke off or know where to find it? Subaru's parts website has the nuts on the manifold diagram but not the stud itself. Thanks!
Hiya, I just swapped a used engine into my '98 OBW. Before we dropped the new engine in, I noticed that the inner manifold stud on the driver's side (closest to the oil pan) was slightly bent. My friend went to straighten it, overdid it, cracked the stud right out of the damn cylinder head. Took a little chunk out of the head and completely destroyed the threading. There's no way I can screw the stud back in. Needless to say, there's a very loud exhaust leak. So my plan is to get some new OEM manifold gaskets and maybe use a high temperature gasket maker on the driver's side with the missing stud. Red RTV? Something else? Any tips appreciated.
I had the same happen on a 2005 Legacy 2.5i. Front stud broke and the extractor cracked out a chunk of the head. Aside from trying to jb weld a new stud I to the head, or having someone weld in/fill the void, drill, and tap it, options are limited. I installed a new gasket and it lasted 3 days before it below out on the back two studs alone.
@@MrSubaru1387 Oof, that's hard luck. So you think the new gasket/red RTV combo is a fool's errand? I don't have easy access to anyone who can weld in a new stud.
The heat shield video was on my 2002 3.0L H6 outback. This is my 2005 Legacy 2.5i. Yea, I snapped the stud off in the head. Drilled it and tapped it for the bolt you see at the end. Still have to replace that bolt I stuck in there with a stud.
Is the driver side manifold supposed to be longer/lower than the passenger side? Mine (the shield) cuts into the skid plate (aluminum) on the driver side after swapping to another a stock (2000 RS) to stock (2001 RS) manifold swap (the original stock one didn't do that)
There's no set service interval. Just eyeball them, see if you see the gasket deteriorated between the head and manifold flange. Look and listen for signs of exhaust leaks.
MrSubaru1387, Hi! I'm a 16 year old learning how to become a automobile engineer and I'm taking time this summer doing maintenance on my car (2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT). I'm gonna do a CVT fluid change and I have two questions. Question 1.- The CVT will only drain 6 to 6.5 quarts of the 13.5 so I can't replace all the fluid at once. Once I change the first 6 quarts, how long should I wait until i drain the other 6 quarts of old fluid? Some say 6 months. Question 2.- I'm also going to take off the pan underneath the CVT and reseal it because its leaking a bit and I live up in Wisconsin where it's 105 in the summer and -25 in the winter. Anyways when I take the CVT fluid pan off what should I reseal it with. Gasket maker at my local auto parts store or a pre made gasket by Felpro or any gasket company? One more thing, what is the torque in ft. lbs. for each of the thirteen 10mm screws that hold the CVT fluid pan? Thanks
What's the mileage on the vehicle? Subaru has a 100k mile warranty on the CVT units. If you touch them, mess with them, or even remove the fill plug, you void the warranty on the unit. Subaru states the CVT is a sealed unit and shouldn't be serviced. Since the pan is leaking on yours, I'd say you're good to go on service though. I wouldn't worry about getting all the fluid out. Change what drains when you drop the pan. Reseal the pan. Fill the transmission to the proper fill level and don't worry with it again. As far as sealing the oil pan. Use THREE BOND 1217B (Part No. K0877YA020) or equivalent. Install the pan by equally tightening all the bolts. Final torque is 5Nm or 3.7Ft.Lbs. No specific torque sequence is given in the service manual for the oil pan.
MrSubaru1387 Thank you so much! I resealed the pan and changed the fluid. My mom drives back and fourth once to twice a day 20 miles for her job. The car has 136k miles so i was out of the warranty
That's why I'm changing mine. Be sure to check for exhaust leaks around the other exhaust joints as well. TH-cam has videos on using a shop vac and a spray bottle with dish soap to find leaks.
OMG!! I pray to the god above it’s not rod knock. Oil psi perfect lost a lil power I got that beautiful flutter noise from the turbo, (I know! It’s not good) and also that tock tock tock when I’m on light throttle.
I know you almost always use oem gaskets, which makes sense as saving a few dollars on parts can cost a fortune in time redoing a job, but have you had failures with the after market head gaskets? Or do you just stick with what works? Thanks and great videos
I have a question?, so I have a 2006 Toyota 4runner codes P0171 Bank 1 and P0174 Bank 2 the running Lean, showing the check engine light on.. Would the Cadillac converter Gasket throw the codes?
If you talked for the first 15 minutes about how fast your car is and wore cool sunglasses throughout the video, randomly panning to yourself. you'd have 34M likes by now... Lol. Great video.
👋🏾😃My auto mechanic diagnosed my 2011 SUBARU OUTBACK's rumbling to the manifold. Thank you for giving me some grounding of what may be part of the problem. I appreciate all the help that I can get.😊👍🏽
Great DIY video, good camera angles, no endless rambling, subtitles while continuing to work. Professional quality that is to the point and helpful for the view. Sub'd.
*viewer.
This is exactly the sound I’ve been hearing. Thank you for making this video. Big help. I’ve been searching for a month now on what it could be.
Hi there From Canada.
Great to see a simple video on how easy it is to get to the Exhaust manifold gaskets.
Here's a point of interest you might want to do a video on, and that is for a 2010 Forester, The Manifolds heat shield rattle at cold start up.
I had to lower my manifold from the Heads and remove the shield. Apparently the Manifold is packed with glass Insulation that over time begins to slowly decay. Being that this is what was causing my loud rattle during start up - sure sounded like the Connecting rod was coming loose. By Repacking the shield with new glass insulation and reinstalling the manifold Wow - It sure quieten the manifold. It also should be mentioned that this shield is quite important as it shields the heat away from the Timing belt cover and the oil filter as well.
You should Share this info in a video so that other people who own this kinda manifold can be rest assured that there car can be fixed and feel confidant that there engine is not falling apart.
I sure enjoy your videos, And Keep up the great production.
Cheers my friend...
I'm about to tackle the manifold on my wife's 2010 forester, Thanks!
Finally i found a video on how to change my gasket thank you so much 🙏🏾
I love your videos and they're super helpful.
I'm sure you've heard this a lot, but I hope you appreciate your southern cars. I'll do the exact same repair on my Wisconsin car, but it takes hours of extra time because every fastener is rusted into oblivion.
Glad you enjoy the videoes! 👍🏻
I'm in Wisconsin, too. Working on cars is a very different thing in the snow belt. My son's 2006 Impreza has what I am now confident is a exhaust leak. Lucky it was a Texas car. I did his brakes and installed OEM WRX springs and everything came apart as if it was my new WRX.
Thanks Mrsubaru1387. Based the first 3 quarters of this video I was able to swap out my old with new in about 15 minutes not including watching the video. :)
Thanks man. I hear an exhaust leak on my wifes 2012 outback. I will check it out this weekend
This is the exact sound I’ve been looking for!
Did your car sound like it just got a little loud but drove the same? That what my cars doing. It sound louder like an exhaust leak but do see any when look underneath.
@@snotbubble6232 it actually turned out to be my UpPipe. It cracked and leaked through the heat shield. I would look in that area. I also had a slight power loss it felt like
You are really saving me money. Thanks.
Bro that's what um talkin bout my guy come thru in the clutch with the hot joints oh and good lookin on that part #
Changed my gaskets, doubled them up, Still leaks.. It was a replacement after market converter and I believe the welds warped the flanges . Leaking again.
I'm gonna go have to see what's making a similar sound under my '11 Impreza tomorrow. I'm 95% sure it's that, but maybe not, however the receipts that came with the car show $2,000 for a new Y pipe (and it is clear it is not OEM, no way anything in Canada shows that little rust after 13 years) - hopefully that's it and that none of my studs snap off.
I have a 2011 aswell, Everytime I down shift and the revs go from 2500-2000 there is a very loud raspy sound that comes from the exhaust. I think it’s this. Did you find out what was wrong with it?
@@B0M8Y You have an air leak, and it pops on downshift. I have the same issue in my 87 Pony, but I like the pops ;)
Thanks great video 👍🏼 great job
You're welcome. 👍🏻
My biggest question was which side the nub on the ID went. Also i was thinking when you broke that stud work it back and forth. Get a wire brush. PB is better for this like that. Good stuff.
Great video as always!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. 👍🏻
This looks like it could be my problem. Fingers crossed 🤞
good day to all ... a silly question is it necessary to leave on all those exhaust shields?...
My studs have about 1/4 " unthreaded end.. does that go in the head or does the other end?
thanks for your videos! i just replaced mine, and it helped for a short while, but a few days later and im back where i started.
what might be causing my gasket to blow like this?
Could be a few things, cheap gaskets, not tight enough. first thing I'd check is when you take the manifold off check the mating surface with a straight edge to make sure its flat and not warped.
Muito obrigado
Use a small torch heat those nuts also. Easier for penetrated fluid to go between thread.
MrSubaru, Thanks for all of your videos. I am currently battling the exhaust gaskets. I snapped a few of the bolts on an extremely rust, east coast, 2001 Subaru Outback VDC. I have tried heat and tons of elbow grease; the studs and not moving. They are welded in place. Is drilling them out the only way - It seems unlikely I can remove this part and take it to the shop.
what did you do?
Daaaamn what happened to your elbow? Your vids are super helpful btw.
Shattered. Two surgeries. Nerve damage.
Great vid, you say about po171 and po420 at start which im getting plus my sti is adding 25%+ stft on boost ! Which cant be true as 17-1 afr ! , wierd thing is my rear o2 sensor is fully rich at time this happens aswell ? Would you say exhaust leak before first o2 sensor, any info be great, thanks
Can you double up these gaskets if you suspect your flange is warped?
I have a 2003 Subaru Forester with a nasty exhaust leak. Woke up this morning to sounding like a Mack truck. I leave before 5am so I'm sure the old folks in my quiet mountain neighborhood weren't too happy with me. Definitely coming from the manifold and hope its not too much of a hassle to fix... Time to put the ole man to work I guess. Will it always be both or can it just be one side, my left side is louder with tons of hot ass air blowing up through and my fuel efficiency is shit!!
Oh and I don't have a heat shield. It was never put back on from work that was done a couple years ago.
Which way do the gaskets go in? The smooth side facing the exhaust?
I have the same question
So are like the studs speck the same as the bolts speck????
Do you happen to have a video how it sounded before?
I picked up a set of exhaust manifold gaskets for my 2008 Impreza (non-WRX) from my local Subaru dealer, and they gave me ones without the "perforation" on one side. Instead they're flat on both sides, with a raised lip around the hole on one side. The p/n is 44616AA290. Are these better/worse to use? If they're fine to use, which way should I have the side with the lip facing? Thank you!
I've used both. Had no issues. Most issues I see from that style gasket, is when they're aftermarket. I believe the "domed" side goes down, towards the manifold.
Awesome! Same question here, I'm glad it's already answered.
Is this front exhaust manifold? I got my first Subaru and first manual car (2003 Legacy GT wagon) recently and I LOVE it, but the previous owner installed an aftermarket exhaust system and catalytic converter that doesn't fit properly, and I need to replace the front exhaust manifold and cat, but the rear of the exhaust system is apparently fine. Is there a difference?
I'm doing the same job to my 2001 outback h6, should I clean the matting surfaces also?
I was wondering that
@@ihatesocialnetworkin make sure you inspect both surfaces well. If your doing an old Subaru such as mine, look for pitting. I cleaned my surfaces with a dremel tool and buffed the surface super clean. I had a ton of pitting on the manifold, I used Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to seal the exhaust. It worked great and have been driving the car for months without any kind of leak. The easy way to check if it's sealed, hook the hose on your shop vac on its exhaust hole then duct tape to to you muffler. Turn it on and spray the exhaust with dish soap water. Look for bubbles
MrSubaru I have a very noticeable engine tick in my new to me 09 outback. It's not the exhaust. Could it be the valve adjustment? It leaks a little as well. It also leaks oil. I was planning to do the complete head job, but could it needs more than this? Any videos on noises beyond the common ones.?
Great job, I’m hooked on your videos. if I may ask, where do you purchase the parts for your Subaru?
Subaruparts.com, my local dealership, or Amazon.
Would the process and P/N apply to an EJ207? Mine is running choppy and losing vacuum, so I suspect this may be a possibility as there is a very strong fuel smell up front in addition to the flutter/hiss sound.
Thank you.
I worked the same.and
When I drive 15 miles on the Wacky road rattle noise appeared in the manifold.
I have a bone stock 2018 forester XT 51 k on it. This is second time the exhaust gaskets need to be replaced by dealer why would that be? First time occured around 28k. Should I buy aftermarket? The guy said my hold plus does not cover but his manager approved to replace for my 100 deductible.
My 08 2.5i has a flutter and aloud chirp under load, do you think it could eb the gaskets?
Hy!
i have a little question,i can put on my 2005 sg forester 2.0 125hp a bigger oil pan,like a 2.5 one?(i want to increase the oil capacity on my engine to keep him in a better condition for a longer time) sorry for my english.
thx!
Is it normal you can see abit of the new gasket?
Hey my friend what side of the gasket goes to the block and part goes to the headers I did I see please
As far as I know, the orientation of the gasket isn't crucial.
Yeah.... I just got some new ones from subaru and they're different. One side is flared out...
would it be better to warm up the car to expand the aluminum head and therefore help the whole stud to come out instead of trying to break the bolt loose? Or would that do nothing
I bought gasket part number 14038aa000 and both sides are solid metal surfaces but one side is flat and the other has like a dome/ rounded ring in the center Im trying to figure what side faces the head plz help
Weren’t we just talking about exhaust manifold gaskets? Looks like I was just a Little late. Bummer about the bolt hole in the head.
Thanks for the video! Do you recommend sticking with hand tools to break those nuts loose?
Depends. Sometimes I use a ratchet. Some times I use an impact. Usually get mixed results. Broken studs with either method.
Dammit, I was afraid you might say that. Thanks for the reply!
I was doing some transmission work and almost all of my nuts and bolts snapped when removing the heat shield.
Ouch...
Would this be the same on a turbo?
Yes, just a different exhaust manifold, of course.
Why are my gaskets smooth on one side?
do you sand down the manifold and head before reapplying the gasket?
No. Just hit them with a Roloc or scraper to remove the old gasket.
What size bolt (thread) did you use to temporarily replaced the broken stud?
Can't recall. Just grabbed one from a bucket of spare fasteners.
Where can I purchase that same gasket ? I have not been able to find it . 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ and I need it desperately
Muy buen video amigo. Me gustaría saber si al salir gases de combustión por falla de estas piezas que haz cambiado esto afectaría al motor, provocando un calentamiento por exceder los 120 km/hr. Gracias
Hey man, you wouldn't happen to have the PN for the manifold stud that you said was broke off or know where to find it? Subaru's parts website has the nuts on the manifold diagram but not the stud itself. Thanks!
I don't. You can buy generic studs from Advance Auto Parts though, just take one in to match. They usually stock them.
Hiya, I just swapped a used engine into my '98 OBW. Before we dropped the new engine in, I noticed that the inner manifold stud on the driver's side (closest to the oil pan) was slightly bent. My friend went to straighten it, overdid it, cracked the stud right out of the damn cylinder head. Took a little chunk out of the head and completely destroyed the threading. There's no way I can screw the stud back in. Needless to say, there's a very loud exhaust leak.
So my plan is to get some new OEM manifold gaskets and maybe use a high temperature gasket maker on the driver's side with the missing stud. Red RTV? Something else? Any tips appreciated.
I had the same happen on a 2005 Legacy 2.5i. Front stud broke and the extractor cracked out a chunk of the head. Aside from trying to jb weld a new stud I to the head, or having someone weld in/fill the void, drill, and tap it, options are limited. I installed a new gasket and it lasted 3 days before it below out on the back two studs alone.
@@MrSubaru1387 Oof, that's hard luck. So you think the new gasket/red RTV combo is a fool's errand? I don't have easy access to anyone who can weld in a new stud.
I sorta had a similar problem. I used high temp cement and filled it in. But now I am redoing everything right!
Made that look ez, thought u snapped that last stud on right side...is this still the same with the heat shields in place?
The heat shield video was on my 2002 3.0L H6 outback. This is my 2005 Legacy 2.5i. Yea, I snapped the stud off in the head. Drilled it and tapped it for the bolt you see at the end. Still have to replace that bolt I stuck in there with a stud.
any tips for drilling out the stud in the aluminum head? When my engine was pulled for head gaskets, i replaced the studs and nuts with oem
Use a center punch to mark the center of the stud. Use a nice and sharp left hand cobalt drill bit. Cross your fingers. Haha
Is the driver side manifold supposed to be longer/lower than the passenger side? Mine (the shield) cuts into the skid plate (aluminum) on the driver side after swapping to another a stock (2000 RS) to stock (2001 RS) manifold swap (the original stock one didn't do that)
Driver side is supposed to have a longer runner, not sure about lower. You mean as in the pipe hangs lower or the flange isn't lining up?
I meant this part of the manifold shied is cutting into the skid plate: i.imgur.com/415kjRH.png
Aftermarket skid plate?
Yeah, not a big deal though, it's just that it didn't used to cut into the same skid plate.
How often should this be done?
There's no set service interval. Just eyeball them, see if you see the gasket deteriorated between the head and manifold flange. Look and listen for signs of exhaust leaks.
MrSubaru1387, Hi! I'm a 16 year old learning how to become a automobile engineer and I'm taking time this summer doing maintenance on my car (2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT). I'm gonna do a CVT fluid change and I have two questions. Question 1.- The CVT will only drain 6 to 6.5 quarts of the 13.5 so I can't replace all the fluid at once. Once I change the first 6 quarts, how long should I wait until i drain the other 6 quarts of old fluid? Some say 6 months. Question 2.- I'm also going to take off the pan underneath the CVT and reseal it because its leaking a bit and I live up in Wisconsin where it's 105 in the summer and -25 in the winter. Anyways when I take the CVT fluid pan off what should I reseal it with. Gasket maker at my local auto parts store or a pre made gasket by Felpro or any gasket company? One more thing, what is the torque in ft. lbs. for each of the thirteen 10mm screws that hold the CVT fluid pan? Thanks
What's the mileage on the vehicle? Subaru has a 100k mile warranty on the CVT units. If you touch them, mess with them, or even remove the fill plug, you void the warranty on the unit. Subaru states the CVT is a sealed unit and shouldn't be serviced. Since the pan is leaking on yours, I'd say you're good to go on service though.
I wouldn't worry about getting all the fluid out. Change what drains when you drop the pan. Reseal the pan. Fill the transmission to the proper fill level and don't worry with it again.
As far as sealing the oil pan. Use THREE BOND 1217B (Part No. K0877YA020) or equivalent.
Install the pan by equally tightening all the bolts. Final torque is 5Nm or 3.7Ft.Lbs. No specific torque sequence is given in the service manual for the oil pan.
MrSubaru1387 Thank you so much! I resealed the pan and changed the fluid. My mom drives back and fourth once to twice a day 20 miles for her job. The car has 136k miles so i was out of the warranty
can a bad exhaust manifold leak cause the car to misfire?
That's why I'm changing mine. Be sure to check for exhaust leaks around the other exhaust joints as well. TH-cam has videos on using a shop vac and a spray bottle with dish soap to find leaks.
OMG!! I pray to the god above it’s not rod knock. Oil psi perfect lost a lil power I got that beautiful flutter noise from the turbo, (I know! It’s not good) and also that tock tock tock when I’m on light throttle.
piston slap...good luck
How can I know if it has a leak?
peyton rex but how can you tell if there’s a hole in the manifold underneath the heat shield?!?
I know you almost always use oem gaskets, which makes sense as saving a few dollars on parts can cost a fortune in time redoing a job, but have you had failures with the after market head gaskets? Or do you just stick with what works? Thanks and great videos
I have seen Six Star and Felpros fail far sooner than the Subaru OEM gasket. Main reason I stick to OEM when fiscally possible.
I have a question?, so I have a 2006 Toyota 4runner codes P0171 Bank 1 and P0174 Bank 2 the running Lean, showing the check engine light on.. Would the Cadillac converter Gasket throw the codes?