I hope this helps to clear up some confusion for many people out there. Here is the link to Dream Giveaway: Use my code RacerX Super Bee: www.dreamgiveaway.com/tickets/superbee?promo=RACERX 2018 Demon: www.dreamgiveaway.com/tickets/srtdemon?promo=RACERX
Even if the importance of the break in period is overstated, it seems like it would be foolish not to do it if there's even a chance it increases the longevity of the motor.
We've gone from Iron Block/ Head with tolerances you can drive a semi through to Aluminum block/Heads that you need 0W-30 weight oil for starting. My Grandfather remembered you started with very thin oils with the Model Ts, then by the 4th year you went from Kerosene/Lamp Oil to Syrup (as viscosity wise) becuase of the wear in the cylinder walls etc
100% agree, but I struggle with addict behavior and really really struggled to go easy when I first got my hemi charger. The one I have now I paid for in full, so what I break will cost me but I can’t help myself. The throttle is an on off switch as far as I can see. Especially considering I already bought new tires and need to get rid of the oem ones before removing them. I’m not wasting good rubber.
@@rustyshaklferd1897 oh my damn, when I first got my 392 charger a couple of years ago, I struggled HARD to keep it chill until I hit 500 and then 1000! I live about a mile away from the highest speed limit highway in the country!! By the end I was like Pookie from New Jack City.... it just be calling me!
Break in is always important, I usually give my vehicles 500 miles of light to moderate throttle, and allow them to come up to operating temperature before even attempting any spirited driving.
Yep, come up to operating temperature is the key part. I recently bought a UltraGauge, plugs into your OBD2 port, and can read the sensors of your vehicle via the PCM. Coolant Temp with an actual number, Timing, O2/Fuel trims, TPS%, MAF, intake temp, etc All for like $100
I have always break in my new Challengers engine. I read the Owners Manual to make sure what I need to do. I was told that your warranty requires it. Thank you for this great informative video RacerX.
wear pattern, heat, etc Just how companies can tell if the valves hit the piston top in all the cylinders that = an over-rev situation. @@tundrawhisperer4821
I just broke in my rebuilt 6.4 hemi in my truck by getting the motor to full temp, let it cool off, then I took it out and got into it pretty good during the first drive to seat the rings. Then changed the oil after 1k miles. Been great so far.
Excellent advise especially for the naysayers. I’m currently in break-in period with my 2023 Challenger Scat Pack Widebody (280 miles so far) and following the manual instructions. Will be adding a catch can after 500 miles and other mods after 1500 miles.
Having torn down these engines after 60+K miles, a catch can is only a show piece and another headache to remember. Get one if you want, but unnecessary , this is not a DI car.
Heat cycles is very important. little things like starting it for a few mins then turning off is bad. always let it heat up to running temp before turning off.
💯 Truth. This is exactly what I learned about engine break in when I got my first brand new car. It makes complete sense. It baffles me that people actually rip on brand new cars right off the dealer’s lot.
I prefer to purchase new (usually custom order), as with my 2021 Charger ScatPack Widebody, to ensure that the break in period is done properly. The owners manual outlines the procedure for the first 100 miles, 100-300 miles, 300-500 miles and up to 1500 miles. Having followed those recommendations, I'm looking forward to a long-lasting relationship with my dream car.
I spoke to a machinist about break-in and he gave me the skinny on the why's and how's: 1. The rings need to be tempered during the first few miles (literally the first few), then take it easy for the remainder of the break-in. 2. Higher friction during break in leads to higher heat, so varied throttle helps to load the engine, seat the rings, etc. 3. Then deceleration helps pull oil under the piston skirts and cool them down. 4. Drop the break-in oil, cut the filter open and check for metal in the oil and in the filter media. 5. Drive "normal" after the break-in.
As with most people here agreeing with a break in period.. every new car I have ever bought was put through these same points. I remember one even stating in the owners manual to avoid using cruise so you can get varied engine and transmission speeds. What scares me is if you purchase a used vehicle you really don't know how it was treated unless you knew the person first hand. That's why I ALWAYS purchase and extended warranty..
The higher compression and cam lift/spring pressure of a HP engine makes break in much more critical, also oil changes at 100/500/1200 miles has always been my goto, never had an engine fail in 40 years using this simple methodology. 20 minutes of cam breakin @2000 rpm, then 100 miles of light throttle varied rpm, 400 at a bit more heavy throttle, then 700 @ normal driving staying away from redline.Roller cams are more forgiving, but I do this process anyways because a little time is cheaper than roaching a cam lobe, bearing or ring by being in a hurry, a great useful video here X, cheers!
Bro, I was at that same dealer 2 days ago and I saw your car covered and I thought it was weird. I knew it was a 170. And now I see your video and I find out that it’s yours. Congratulations.
As a diesel technician and an owner of a 04 SRT 10 with 150,000 miles I can agree with you on everything you covered, thank you and this only applies to owners, since thieves won't care about the vehicle after they abandon it lol.
So you’re telling me that hundred yard burnout💨 I did out of the dealership was a no no,lol with that said, I can’t wait to watch this demon 170 it’s been a long time coming. Congratulations again!
Congratulations on the 170!!! I'm excited to see you get you car. IMO you are the right youtuber to get a Demon 170. It'll be in the right hands for sure! Thanx X
I broke in my 2023 Charger about this way. Short trips, moderate throttle, etc. I probably didn't get to 4500 rpm much, but I didn't punch it too hard. I didn't do the first oil change until 3000 miles, but otherwise kinda followed this model.
Ordered my scat and it showed up January. Since then I’ve only put 750 miles on the car but not because of the investment but rather my love for it and I want it to be around when I retire in 50 years. I’ve had it in sport almost the entire time. Never above 4,500 RPMs. Oil changes get done at 3,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first and because I knew when exactly my car was built to the day I started from the day on. I solely believe that when they are brand new you should get the oil changed after the first 500 due to how important that first few hundred miles are then again at 1,500 however if your like me and barely drive it then you’ll be just fine at what I am doing. Also keep them stock until you hit atleast 1,500 miles.
Both my Trackhawks, Hellscats and Scats… change oil the 1st time at 400mi. I never push the peddle more than 1/4th throttle.. NEVER wide open.. my Trackhawks both did 3.1 to 60mph… I had a friend to beat the crap out of his from day one.. his only did 3.9 to 60..
I have been following racing x for a long time and I have finally got myself an R/T challenger and it's awesome I just started uploading videos to TH-cam I'm new but racing x is my role model
My Dakota was "No WOT in 1st gear for first 500miles; vary speed and RPM" My Moms 2019 Ram was the same but for 400, my Dad's Santa Cruz was "No high revs for the first 300-500 miles (4000+)" Have to let the rings, seals etc seat and let it start a decent wear pattern. But it really the MAINTANCE that makes the difference for longevity. Thats why some gas engines last for 40k miles and some for 200k+.. not all are sleeved blocks like a diesels that you can tear down every 350k miles
Dont totally baby vehicle but dont rag on it (rings need seated sooner than later). Warm car up, vary throttle keep under 4500 rpm, decel/engine brake downhill if possible. Cool down, repeat. Change oil way early first couple of times, ignore owners manual was written for lowest cost of maint ownership stats in this regard. After break in oil changes very 4 to 5K if not tracking vehicle.
Knowing a bit more about engine oil lil bit more then the average dog, I’ve been in the auto parts business since 1975, just got my 2023 Scat Pack, back in July, & did exactly what you’re describing, referencing oil, I have a close friend that is an AmsOil distributor, & long story short, I put 450 miles on the car then changed out from factory Penns, to AmsOil, 0W /40, living in Florida & monitoring the heat coming off this Scat Shaker, was off the wall, hence the reason I swapped out the oil in a hurry, my friend turned me on to the testing of most major synthetic oil companies, and testing was unbelievable on the Amsoil, the AmsOil blew away all competition in the roller-bearing test, the heat test and also the cold test. I’ve been using AmsOil in all my vehicles to include my 3 air cooled Harley Davidsons, again the heat reduction was anywhere from 13 to 20% cooler, due to less key word (FRICTION). I’m retired out of the automotive parts business, but as per this video thread, spot on with the babying for the first, 500, to 1,500 miles is a blessing. Gr8 video!! Also I haven’t done any mods yet, I still only have 450 miles on the car, I did finally locate ceramic front brake pads for the widebody scat pack and replace OEM, dust makers. 6 piston Brems, What a brake pad residue difference!
I’m a true believer in break-in periods. I cracked a ring on a new high horse powered car that had only 240 miles. And it was started 😢consuming a quart and a half every 1000 miles.
After decades in an auto machine shop & building the motors , I’ve always held to the moment it first heat cycles it’s done , but chrome or plasma moly rings need quite a bit of heat & take longer to “seat in”. I’ve got 300 miles in my 2 Mo old 1320 & after 8 miles it was game on , lol on it as I think babying it is bad. Come on Friday !!!!!!! Your 170 ❤
I've built several engines, broke them in how I was going to drive them, never had issues as long as you change oil and filter a few times in the first few thousand miles. Always use nothing but Castrol oil and Fram filter, never had any issues...
I always start my scatpack and start driving right away, but I try to stay at 2k rpms, and don't go over 3k rpms until I've been driving for at least 20 minutes. I don't like to just sit in idle because the 392 Hemi's are known to have an oiling issue at idle in the bottom end. I like to keep the rpms around 2k until warmed up to help fling the oil around. Aparently Dodge cop cars have a tendency to wear out cams because they sit idling a lot of the time.
I also recommend using breakin oil. I use Royal Purple Break in oil and it makes a difference. People don't understand small things like this when paired with the proper break procedure make a huge difference in maintaining the life of the vehicle.
I wish you would have shown more of the exterior of your new car. Love the Color combination especially the Bright Wheels which set the car off far better than Black Wheels.
9:24 re Sport mode - In my 2023 Charger R/T (5.7/345) the Sport mode was "crippled" for the first 500 miles. Selecting Sport mode it would open the muffler valves and set the steering for sport, but the engine and transmission would still use MDS 4-cyl mode and short shift. At 500 miles these restrictions went away and I got full Sport mode. P.S. the manual specifies break-in procedures for the 6.4 and 6.2 engines, but for the 3.6 and 5.7 it says no special care is needed, not even an oil change until 10k miles. No way I was waiting 10K for the 1st oil change.
Yes I saw the manual for the SRT hemi's .. funny because all the engineers will tell you to do it exactly like I was mentioning. I'm referring to performance engineers across the board. It's like don't go over 55mph for the first hundred miles.. which is funny because it has less to do with vehicle speed and more to do with engine rpm. Go figure
I think I screwed up my break in period.... Im on 2100 miles on a 2023 charger WB scat pack.. I wasn't informed about the break in... So I don't know how it's gonna hold up down the line 🤦🏾♂️
Great truth informative video that is needed 👍🏽🎯💯 Dejavu from when I did the engine break in procedure ( per manual instructions )on my 2021 redeye hellcat challenger . I drove over 30 miles back home from dealership doing 55mph in the far right lane🤣😆😂🎯💯🫡
AwesomeX《☆》White looks good on Chargers. Great advice Brother. I guess the Tennessee PoPos broke in my Charger Pursuit properly. It's still running great with almost 116K miles & 8000 hours engine time✌🏼😎☯️
My 2023 Ram TRX was broken in by the dealership porter who took it to the gas station to fill up the tank while I was doing my paperwork 🤨 truck had 18 miles on it and top speed recorder was 107 MPH... You'd think he would have been smart enough to reset it...
I keep the coolant gauge in my center display. Performance pages are slow to load, and the built-in doesn't register until 170°. I don't start moving after starting till I see 100°.
Definitely think engine break-in is necessary. Although it’s hard to do it when you buy the car out of town. I bought my Scat 3 yrs ago brand new…..bought it in D.C. and drove it back home 5 hours to N.C. I kept it in between Sport & ECO modes with the cruise control on 70 mph. So far 3 yrs later haven’t had any problems with it. Only issue had with it was 1 yr after ownership I did a hard acceleration up to redline and check engine light came on and engine went into limp mode. I stopped and turned engine off for few minutes and then cranked back up and engine seemed fine. I think it was due to engine just being started and was cold when I did hard acceleration. I took it to dealership and they did a diagnostic check and kept car for a day and couldn’t find anything wrong…..that was 2 yrs ago with no further problems. My Scat has 14,000 miles on it now as I have another daily vehicle i drive and my Scat is still going strong.
It is important based on that bad engine blowing up fresh out the factory, and they deny your warranty when they see your highest speed is 143 mph and you have 170 miles on the dash.
Probably good that you did this video. The internet (and local cruise ins) is full of "experts" that are convinced that they know more than the factory engineers. Or, their buddy, or their neighbor, or their gear-head uncle told them something different than what the Owner's Manual says and they're going with that.. Every manufacturer's Owner's Manual has specific guidelines for that particular car/engine. For example, the Owner's Manual for my 2005 GTO (366ci/6.0L LS2) specified keeping speeds under 55mph (and vary your speed) for the first 500 miles and to avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles. The one old-school practice that I still cling to is my initial oil change intervals. And your comments seem to verify that I'm not wrong. I try to do my first oil change at about 1,000 miles so I can examine the oil for metal. Then I do my second oil change 2,000 miles later at 3,000 miles to once again examine the oil for metal. And, I do my third oil change 3,000 miles later at 6,000 miles. And that puts me right on schedule with the Dodge Owner's Manual for the 392ci/6.4L HEMI to do future oil changes at not more than 6,000 mile intervals (or 6 months, whichever comes first.). Should there be a problem down the line, Dodge (especially under Stellantis) will want to see proof that you followed the Owner's Manual's service schedule. (NO ... that does not mean you're forced to have the service done at the dealership. Just keep receipts and a service log.) And there's even more misinformation when it comes to which oil to use. Lord help you if you suggest following the Owner's Manual instead of using the same oil you ran in your '68 Charger. TLDR: Read your Owner's Manual and follow what it says regarding Break-In, Oil viscosity, and Service Intervals
And that's what the warranty is for. Probably week parts to begin with. You cannot garentee any moving or electrical part on any vehicle, bad/ week parts are made every day.... maintenance is your make or break most generally...
I refuse to buy a car that has more than 4 miles on it. If it was test driven and beat on for a few miles I won’t buy it. Break in is pretty much a religion to me. You’re right on target for break in…. been doing this since I purchased my first brand new mustang 5.0 Notch back in 1991.
Oh God not this debate again. On a hellcat the engine is ran hard on the dyno before it goes into the car. You are breaking in the Trans and differential more than the engine. I've built over 200 engines from 100hp 2 strokes to 600 inch big block chevys. All the car engines were broke in on dyno for 30 minutes and then ran hard on dyno. Never any issues. On my hellcats I give them 100 easy miles and then I let em eat. Never any issues, no noise noise oil consumption. Even just 100 miles the engine has rotated 1000's of times. The bearings are breaking in mostly, rings get seated first very quickly. If the break in was that important they factory would limit rpm first 500 miles and they don't. Hmmmm!!!!!
When I took delivery of my brand new 2022 Challenger Scat Pack the top speed displayed 97 mph!!! I have adhered to the manuals break in process to a tee, and it seems ok, but I worry about how the car was treated before they delivered it. Any thoughts anyone?
My '23 SP said top speed = 101 mph and I freaked out. My salesman said it's a factory electronic testing thing. He showed me on the lot a SP just off the train reading 97 mph. Also a Hellcat (no test drives allowed) showing 104 mph.
My Challenger widebody scat pack has 6k miles on it. I’ve owned it now for over 2 1/2 years. I never broke mine in, I don’t beat on it but I do rump on it here in here and it drives fine. I’ve changed the oil in it twice already
I was hoping someone in the comments would say this... I wasn't told by the dealer of a break in period, I haven't dogged it but I've laid in here and the... I currently have 2100 mile on a 2023 wb scat charger... But thank for the info bro
RacerX breaking in an engine is a myth!! Tell me what high performance trailered race car goes out and puts 500 miles on a high compression high RPM Race engine? I’ve had multiple trailered race cars over the years and there is no such thing as a breaking in a race engine! The machine shops I’ve dealt with have explained that engines break in by spinning the metal does not know how fast it’s spinning! Another thing is your connecting rods stretch as RPM increases so you want the rings to break into the highest point in the cylinder as possible! So if you baby an engine then you can create a ridge at the top of a new cylinder then rev the engine out miles later and take the sharp edges off the top rings!! So warm your Oil to full operation temp and give that engine full rpm right after its oil reaches full temp!!
100% true… need to do slight rpm variation initially to seat the piston rings to the cylinder walls and then need to get to wide open throttle asap to seat the rest of the engine bearings. 500 mile “break in” is BS. Makes me want to do a video on how it should actually be done
If for nothing else it is probably wisest to follow protocol for peace of mind. It would be terrible to blow up your new Hellcat or, worse, your Demon before 500 miles and Dodge has a way to pull data to refuse repair. These are mass produced engines and likely nothing close to the quality of a professionally built race car.
@@Apex_Predator_PlumpCat sir I will say this to your response! I’ve had multiple trailered race cars and multiple very mild Street and Strip modern EFI NA and Supercharged 30,000 mile a year daily drivers and never not once breaked in an engine for the reasons I stated in my original comment! For example my Supercharged Foxbody daily driver that I sold with 185,000 miles that 20 years ago ran a very mild 11.50’s at 120 mph with functional AC and would pass NJ State emissions! That was with an AOD Transmission! My serous Race car was a NA 351C that could turn 8500 RPM as a pushrod engine and ran 10,0’s at 133-135 in good air and put 400-450 passes per year and never breaking in any engine I’ve owned! It’s a Myth guys!
Trailered race cars aren't meant to last 100k-200k miles, or 10-20 years. Top fuel engines are lucky to hold together for 4 seconds before they need to be completely rebuilt. NASCAR and INDY motors are broken in during testing, and builders hope they stay together for 500 miles, not 150k miles.
I want to take my 23 Redeye to hennessey performance to get a 1000whp upgrade. My question is this not good to do with a car that has 23 miles. I live in vermont so the only time I can really do this is when it leaves the dealer and ships directly to them. This way when it gets to me it’s really. Thoughts on ppl doing aftermarket upgrades on new cars with companies like Saleen, Roush, Hennessey ?
I ordered and purchased a 2016 Charger Scat Pack. It's damn near the same car. Mine was under $40K. Dodge is selling hype. I can't afford hype, especially for just stickers. Triple
Plain and simple. If you do not break it in, it is proven on Dyno testing from me. The vehicle will not have as much horsepower as the vehicle that was broken in properly.
Break it in like you do a H.O. Motorcycle! You don't want a lazy motor. Warm it up, drive in town stoplight to stoplight with lots of heat cycles and vary the RPM's. Brief full throttle acceleration is acceptable. Drop oil at 500mi then at 1500mi & then every 5K with full synthetic.
In the manual between 300-500 miles it says to exercise the full rpm range. Does that mean take it to redline? 500-1500 miles it says no track events. Does this mean to continue the break in to 1500 miles before driving it to its full potential?
Yes, it means run it the full rpm range. But only for a short time, and not running it from a dead standstill. It means going down the highway and hitting passing gear and running it up the rpm range. Or being in second or third gear and running it up for a short period of time. Drag strip, (or track), is putting a heavy load on the engine and drivetrain. Doing a rolling run doesn’t put the same strain on it. 😃
The way I read it after 500 miles go for it. Just don't race it for another 1000 miles. You'll notice they say for the first 300-500 miles don't hold the pedal to the floor. One can conclude after 500 it's ok to do that (although I'd still feel like I was thrashing it).
There is nothing in the manual about changing oil until 6K miles. VW Golf R posts break-in instructions and first oil change at 10K miles. I mean, the Germans aren't slouches when it comes to car maintenance.
I hope this helps to clear up some confusion for many people out there.
Here is the link to Dream Giveaway: Use my code RacerX
Super Bee: www.dreamgiveaway.com/tickets/superbee?promo=RACERX
2018 Demon: www.dreamgiveaway.com/tickets/srtdemon?promo=RACERX
🏆Racer X🏆when are we going to see your ⚡new toy⚡ 🍀Get R Done😎✌️
🏆Racer X🏆 it's Friday night👀the beers ice Cold and the women are wild🤘 when is the 😈demon coming out to🍀 play 😎✌️
Even if the importance of the break in period is overstated, it seems like it would be foolish not to do it if there's even a chance it increases the longevity of the motor.
We've gone from Iron Block/ Head with tolerances you can drive a semi through to Aluminum block/Heads that you need 0W-30 weight oil for starting. My Grandfather remembered you started with very thin oils with the Model Ts, then by the 4th year you went from Kerosene/Lamp Oil to Syrup (as viscosity wise) becuase of the wear in the cylinder walls etc
100% agree, but I struggle with addict behavior and really really struggled to go easy when I first got my hemi charger. The one I have now I paid for in full, so what I break will cost me but I can’t help myself. The throttle is an on off switch as far as I can see. Especially considering I already bought new tires and need to get rid of the oem ones before removing them. I’m not wasting good rubber.
@@rustyshaklferd1897 oh my damn, when I first got my 392 charger a couple of years ago, I struggled HARD to keep it chill until I hit 500 and then 1000! I live about a mile away from the highest speed limit highway in the country!! By the end I was like Pookie from New Jack City.... it just be calling me!
@@rustyshaklferd1897I feel you on the addict behavior struggle.. I’m the same way. Love my V8 Charger!
Break in is always important, I usually give my vehicles 500 miles of light to moderate throttle, and allow them to come up to operating temperature before even attempting any spirited driving.
I did the exact same thing. Read the manual took it easy for about the first 1000. Runs like a dream.
Yep, come up to operating temperature is the key part. I recently bought a UltraGauge, plugs into your OBD2 port, and can read the sensors of your vehicle via the PCM. Coolant Temp with an actual number, Timing, O2/Fuel trims, TPS%, MAF, intake temp, etc All for like $100
I have always break in my new Challengers engine. I read the Owners Manual to make sure what I need to do. I was told that your warranty requires it. Thank you for this great informative video RacerX.
How would your warranty know you did it or didn’t do it? 😂
Gone the days of 7yr/70k and 10yr/100k
wear pattern, heat, etc Just how companies can tell if the valves hit the piston top in all the cylinders that = an over-rev situation. @@tundrawhisperer4821
@@tundrawhisperer4821 The computers in the car is where the information comes from. The dealership service dept does this.
@@NXT_LVL yep.. My Hellcat has 3 yr 36k miles which ever comes first.
I just broke in my rebuilt 6.4 hemi in my truck by getting the motor to full temp, let it cool off, then I took it out and got into it pretty good during the first drive to seat the rings. Then changed the oil after 1k miles. Been great so far.
Man, I am so happy for you knowing your car finally showed up. Was praying 4 U.
Thank you my friend... I appreciate that
Excellent advise especially for the naysayers. I’m currently in break-in period with my 2023 Challenger Scat Pack Widebody (280 miles so far) and following the manual instructions. Will be adding a catch can after 500 miles and other mods after 1500 miles.
Having torn down these engines after 60+K miles, a catch can is only a show piece and another headache to remember. Get one if you want, but unnecessary , this is not a DI car.
@@Ramblequist exactly
Heat cycles is very important. little things like starting it for a few mins then turning off is bad. always let it heat up to running temp before turning off.
💯 Truth. This is exactly what I learned about engine break in when I got my first brand new car. It makes complete sense. It baffles me that people actually rip on brand new cars right off the dealer’s lot.
I prefer to purchase new (usually custom order), as with my 2021 Charger ScatPack Widebody, to ensure that the break in period is done properly. The owners manual outlines the procedure for the first 100 miles, 100-300 miles, 300-500 miles and up to 1500 miles. Having followed those recommendations, I'm looking forward to a long-lasting relationship with my dream car.
I spoke to a machinist about break-in and he gave me the skinny on the why's and how's:
1. The rings need to be tempered during the first few miles (literally the first few), then take it easy for the remainder of the break-in.
2. Higher friction during break in leads to higher heat, so varied throttle helps to load the engine, seat the rings, etc.
3. Then deceleration helps pull oil under the piston skirts and cool them down.
4. Drop the break-in oil, cut the filter open and check for metal in the oil and in the filter media.
5. Drive "normal" after the break-in.
As with most people here agreeing with a break in period.. every new car I have ever bought was put through these same points. I remember one even stating in the owners manual to avoid using cruise so you can get varied engine and transmission speeds. What scares me is if you purchase a used vehicle you really don't know how it was treated unless you knew the person first hand. That's why I ALWAYS purchase and extended warranty..
The higher compression and cam lift/spring pressure of a HP engine makes break in much more critical, also oil changes at 100/500/1200 miles has always been my goto, never had an engine fail in 40 years using this simple methodology. 20 minutes of cam breakin @2000 rpm, then 100 miles of light throttle varied rpm, 400 at a bit more heavy throttle, then 700 @ normal driving staying away from redline.Roller cams are
more forgiving, but I do this process anyways because a little time is cheaper than roaching a cam lobe, bearing or ring by being in a hurry, a great useful video here X, cheers!
Bro, I was at that same dealer 2 days ago and I saw your car covered and I thought it was weird. I knew it was a 170. And now I see your video and I find out that it’s yours. Congratulations.
As a diesel technician and an owner of a 04 SRT 10 with 150,000 miles I can agree with you on everything you covered, thank you and this only applies to owners, since thieves won't care about the vehicle after they abandon it lol.
Can't wait to see the unveiling of your demon 170. Break in is very important on any new vehicle.
So you’re telling me that hundred yard burnout💨 I did out of the dealership was a no no,lol with that said, I can’t wait to watch this demon 170 it’s been a long time coming. Congratulations again!
Imo long as not pinging it off the limiter and below 5k no worries
lol
In my experience it’s good to break in new motors.
Congratulations on the 170!!!
I'm excited to see you get you car. IMO you are the right youtuber to get a Demon 170. It'll be in the right hands for sure!
Thanx X
As a person who rebuilt many of engines I highly recommend breaking them in to make sure the rings and everything is seated.
I broke my Scat Pack in per owners manual which was a 3 step process and it made a huge difference.
I broke in my 2023 Charger about this way. Short trips, moderate throttle, etc. I probably didn't get to 4500 rpm much, but I didn't punch it too hard.
I didn't do the first oil change until 3000 miles, but otherwise kinda followed this model.
I’m so excited to see your brand new Demon 170!
Ordered my scat and it showed up January. Since then I’ve only put 750 miles on the car but not because of the investment but rather my love for it and I want it to be around when I retire in 50 years. I’ve had it in sport almost the entire time. Never above 4,500 RPMs. Oil changes get done at 3,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first and because I knew when exactly my car was built to the day I started from the day on. I solely believe that when they are brand new you should get the oil changed after the first 500 due to how important that first few hundred miles are then again at 1,500 however if your like me and barely drive it then you’ll be just fine at what I am doing. Also keep them stock until you hit atleast 1,500 miles.
Both my Trackhawks, Hellscats and Scats… change oil the 1st time at 400mi. I never push the peddle more than 1/4th throttle.. NEVER wide open.. my Trackhawks both did 3.1 to 60mph… I had a friend to beat the crap out of his from day one.. his only did 3.9 to 60..
I have been following racing x for a long time and I have finally got myself an R/T challenger and it's awesome I just started uploading videos to TH-cam I'm new but racing x is my role model
I’ve seen some people who went WOT off the car lot and later the car has issues then the dealer would also blame it on the break in period.
So stoked for you! Dodge Demon 170 bound!
My Dakota was "No WOT in 1st gear for first 500miles; vary speed and RPM" My Moms 2019 Ram was the same but for 400, my Dad's Santa Cruz was "No high revs for the first 300-500 miles (4000+)" Have to let the rings, seals etc seat and let it start a decent wear pattern. But it really the MAINTANCE that makes the difference for longevity. Thats why some gas engines last for 40k miles and some for 200k+.. not all are sleeved blocks like a diesels that you can tear down every 350k miles
Congrats on your upcoming delivery!!!
Dont totally baby vehicle but dont rag on it (rings need seated sooner than later). Warm car up, vary throttle keep under 4500 rpm, decel/engine brake downhill if possible. Cool down, repeat. Change oil way early first couple of times, ignore owners manual was written for lowest cost of maint ownership stats in this regard. After break in oil changes very 4 to 5K if not tracking vehicle.
Thank you for this much needed information, I’m going to follow your tips with my brand new black top RT.
Knowing a bit more about engine oil lil bit more then the average dog, I’ve been in the auto parts business since 1975, just got my 2023 Scat Pack, back in July, & did exactly what you’re describing, referencing oil, I have a close friend that is an AmsOil distributor, & long story short, I put 450 miles on the car then changed out from factory Penns, to AmsOil, 0W /40, living in Florida & monitoring the heat coming off this Scat Shaker, was off the wall, hence the reason I swapped out the oil in a hurry, my friend turned me on to the testing of most major synthetic oil companies, and testing was unbelievable on the Amsoil, the AmsOil blew away all competition in the roller-bearing test, the heat test and also the cold test. I’ve been using AmsOil in all my vehicles to include my 3 air cooled Harley Davidsons, again the heat reduction was anywhere from 13 to 20% cooler, due to less key word (FRICTION). I’m retired out of the automotive parts business, but as per this video thread, spot on with the babying for the first, 500, to 1,500 miles is a blessing. Gr8 video!! Also I haven’t done any mods yet, I still only have 450 miles on the car, I did finally locate ceramic front brake pads for the widebody scat pack and replace OEM, dust makers. 6 piston Brems, What a brake pad residue difference!
I’m a true believer in break-in periods. I cracked a ring on a new high horse powered car that had only 240 miles. And it was started 😢consuming a quart and a half every 1000 miles.
Getting your Demon!! Finally 😀😀😀😀
Just in time, getting my 392 at courtesy next week
After decades in an auto machine shop & building the motors , I’ve always held to the moment it first heat cycles it’s done , but chrome or plasma moly rings need quite a bit of heat & take longer to “seat in”. I’ve got 300 miles in my 2 Mo old 1320 & after 8 miles it was game on , lol on it as I think babying it is bad. Come on Friday !!!!!!! Your 170 ❤
People that build engines understand this people that don't have no clue.
I've built several engines, broke them in how I was going to drive them, never had issues as long as you change oil and filter a few times in the first few thousand miles. Always use nothing but Castrol oil and Fram filter, never had any issues...
I always start my scatpack and start driving right away, but I try to stay at 2k rpms, and don't go over 3k rpms until I've been driving for at least 20 minutes. I don't like to just sit in idle because the 392 Hemi's are known to have an oiling issue at idle in the bottom end. I like to keep the rpms around 2k until warmed up to help fling the oil around. Aparently Dodge cop cars have a tendency to wear out cams because they sit idling a lot of the time.
this is exactly why I’ve been waiting for you to get your demon he’s actually gonna take care of it just like they did in the old days
recaro seats in that mango orange oh hell yea
your demon may be the only one to make the 8.9 because of the break in
I really appreciate this video. I broke in my scat pack and she is amazing!!
Great, thorough content. Props to you for all the well explained information! Love my ‘23 RT!
Congrats on the new Demon X! LFG!!
I also recommend using breakin oil. I use Royal Purple Break in oil and it makes a difference. People don't understand small things like this when paired with the proper break procedure make a huge difference in maintaining the life of the vehicle.
the only thing that stood out to me in this video was: or even a Demon like mine, sitting in the showroom over there! cant wait for the video.
I wish you would have shown more of the exterior of your new car. Love the Color combination especially the Bright Wheels which set the car off far better than Black Wheels.
9:24 re Sport mode - In my 2023 Charger R/T (5.7/345) the Sport mode was "crippled" for the first 500 miles. Selecting Sport mode it would open the muffler valves and set the steering for sport, but the engine and transmission would still use MDS 4-cyl mode and short shift. At 500 miles these restrictions went away and I got full Sport mode.
P.S. the manual specifies break-in procedures for the 6.4 and 6.2 engines, but for the 3.6 and 5.7 it says no special care is needed, not even an oil change until 10k miles. No way I was waiting 10K for the 1st oil change.
Yes I saw the manual for the SRT hemi's .. funny because all the engineers will tell you to do it exactly like I was mentioning. I'm referring to performance engineers across the board. It's like don't go over 55mph for the first hundred miles.. which is funny because it has less to do with vehicle speed and more to do with engine rpm. Go figure
I think I screwed up my break in period.... Im on 2100 miles on a 2023 charger WB scat pack.. I wasn't informed about the break in... So I don't know how it's gonna hold up down the line 🤦🏾♂️
Great truth informative video that is needed 👍🏽🎯💯 Dejavu from when I did the engine break in procedure ( per manual instructions )on my 2021 redeye hellcat challenger . I drove over 30 miles back home from dealership doing 55mph in the far right lane🤣😆😂🎯💯🫡
Always great videos… so excited for you on the the DEMON….give a long video on it… 👍🏻😎🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
AwesomeX《☆》White looks good on Chargers. Great advice Brother. I guess the Tennessee PoPos broke in my Charger Pursuit properly. It's still running great with almost 116K miles & 8000 hours engine time✌🏼😎☯️
🏆 Racer X🏆🍀 you're the man😎✌️
My 2023 Ram TRX was broken in by the dealership porter who took it to the gas station to fill up the tank while I was doing my paperwork 🤨 truck had 18 miles on it and top speed recorder was 107 MPH... You'd think he would have been smart enough to reset it...
Glad u included the break in oil change too!😊
The don’t go over 70 mph during a break in is not bs. It is in the scat pack user manual that during the break in period do not go over 70mph.
yes in fact it says 55 mph for the first 100 miles
@@user-ex9zm7bg3xyes you are correct it does say that and much more! There is long step by step break in guide.
This man is clueless.
I keep the coolant gauge in my center display.
Performance pages are slow to load, and the built-in doesn't register until 170°.
I don't start moving after starting till I see 100°.
right on I have coolant, oil and tranny temps all up on the performance page home screen
Well said!!! Can't wait excited for you congratulations 🎉
I’ve broke in my motor in one ride when I picked up my jailbreak with no markup from OK to CA, it was a 20 hour drive.
I live right down the road from that dealership have two challengers one a RT and second one a hell cat love my big girls
Definitely think engine break-in is necessary. Although it’s hard to do it when you buy the car out of town. I bought my Scat 3 yrs ago brand new…..bought it in D.C. and drove it back home 5 hours to N.C. I kept it in between Sport & ECO modes with the cruise control on 70 mph. So far 3 yrs later haven’t had any problems with it. Only issue had with it was 1 yr after ownership I did a hard acceleration up to redline and check engine light came on and engine went into limp mode. I stopped and turned engine off for few minutes and then cranked back up and engine seemed fine. I think it was due to engine just being started and was cold when I did hard acceleration. I took it to dealership and they did a diagnostic check and kept car for a day and couldn’t find anything wrong…..that was 2 yrs ago with no further problems. My Scat has 14,000 miles on it now as I have another daily vehicle i drive and my Scat is still going strong.
I drive it like I stole it as soon as I get it off the lot. LOL
It is important based on that bad engine blowing up fresh out the factory, and they deny your warranty when they see your highest speed is 143 mph and you have 170 miles on the dash.
Demon 170 break in is a video in and of itself, take us along for the ride
Probably good that you did this video. The internet (and local cruise ins) is full of "experts" that are convinced that they know more than the factory engineers. Or, their buddy, or their neighbor, or their gear-head uncle told them something different than what the Owner's Manual says and they're going with that.. Every manufacturer's Owner's Manual has specific guidelines for that particular car/engine. For example, the Owner's Manual for my 2005 GTO (366ci/6.0L LS2) specified keeping speeds under 55mph (and vary your speed) for the first 500 miles and to avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
The one old-school practice that I still cling to is my initial oil change intervals. And your comments seem to verify that I'm not wrong. I try to do my first oil change at about 1,000 miles so I can examine the oil for metal. Then I do my second oil change 2,000 miles later at 3,000 miles to once again examine the oil for metal. And, I do my third oil change 3,000 miles later at 6,000 miles. And that puts me right on schedule with the Dodge Owner's Manual for the 392ci/6.4L HEMI to do future oil changes at not more than 6,000 mile intervals (or 6 months, whichever comes first.).
Should there be a problem down the line, Dodge (especially under Stellantis) will want to see proof that you followed the Owner's Manual's service schedule. (NO ... that does not mean you're forced to have the service done at the dealership. Just keep receipts and a service log.)
And there's even more misinformation when it comes to which oil to use. Lord help you if you suggest following the Owner's Manual instead of using the same oil you ran in your '68 Charger.
TLDR: Read your Owner's Manual and follow what it says regarding Break-In, Oil viscosity, and Service Intervals
Good content man 💪🏻
That's so true my friend! That's for all the animals out there to learn something proper.
Ive only owned 2 new cars but ive always done the 500 mile break in
If that dealer actually gives u that demon at msrp and no add ons then they really deserve to be recognized and applauded 🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤
They delivered as promised and were great to work with the entire time
I know somebody who didn't break in their scat (did a burnout right in the lot). Rear diff was toast before 2000 miles
And that's what the warranty is for. Probably week parts to begin with.
You cannot garentee any moving or electrical part on any vehicle, bad/ week parts are made every day.... maintenance is your make or break most generally...
@@crankshaft-rf1nh I agree with you 100%.... but.... if you knew this guy you would definitely know what I mean. Break in meant nothing to this dude
I refuse to buy a car that has more than 4 miles on it. If it was test driven and beat on for a few miles I won’t buy it. Break in is pretty much a religion to me. You’re right on target for break in…. been doing this since I purchased my first brand new mustang 5.0 Notch back in 1991.
What about new built motors. Needing to be tuned on the dyno!
The dealer looked at me crazy when I took my 6.4 in for an engine change at 500 miles lol never going back to that dealer
Dyno video out already for his 170 Demon.
Oh God not this debate again.
On a hellcat the engine is ran hard on the dyno before it goes into the car. You are breaking in the Trans and differential more than the engine. I've built over 200 engines from 100hp 2 strokes to 600 inch big block chevys. All the car engines were broke in on dyno for 30 minutes and then ran hard on dyno. Never any issues. On my hellcats I give them 100 easy miles and then I let em eat. Never any issues, no noise noise oil consumption. Even just 100 miles the engine has rotated 1000's of times. The bearings are breaking in mostly, rings get seated first very quickly. If the break in was that important they factory would limit rpm first 500 miles and they don't. Hmmmm!!!!!
sometimes i do the turn on and go right away because of how loud it is & im just tryna get going lol
Good video man 👍🏻
Can you do a 2018 hellcat versus a 2023 hellcat because I’m deciding please, you’re my favorite TH-camr😢
When I took delivery of my brand new 2022 Challenger Scat Pack the top speed displayed 97 mph!!! I have adhered to the manuals break in process to a tee, and it seems ok, but I worry about how the car was treated before they delivered it. Any thoughts anyone?
My '23 SP said top speed = 101 mph and I freaked out. My salesman said it's a factory electronic testing thing. He showed me on the lot a SP just off the train reading 97 mph. Also a Hellcat (no test drives allowed) showing 104 mph.
Same for me it’s been bothering me ever since purchasing, I bought it with 591 miles and the top speeds were 100, 98, and 93 🙃
My Challenger widebody scat pack has 6k miles on it. I’ve owned it now for over 2 1/2 years. I never broke mine in, I don’t beat on it but I do rump on it here in here and it drives fine. I’ve changed the oil in it twice already
I was hoping someone in the comments would say this... I wasn't told by the dealer of a break in period, I haven't dogged it but I've laid in here and the... I currently have 2100 mile on a 2023 wb scat charger... But thank for the info bro
A valuable instructions 😇👍 We appreciate it …. Love from Saudi Arabia 🫡
Extremely knowledgeable
Don’t matter if you’re not keeping it forever. 9/10 most people don’t . Or care to break them in
RacerX breaking in an engine is a myth!! Tell me what high performance trailered race car goes out and puts 500 miles on a high compression high RPM Race engine? I’ve had multiple trailered race cars over the years and there is no such thing as a breaking in a race engine! The machine shops I’ve dealt with have explained that engines break in by spinning the metal does not know how fast it’s spinning! Another thing is your connecting rods stretch as RPM increases so you want the rings to break into the highest point in the cylinder as possible! So if you baby an engine then you can create a ridge at the top of a new cylinder then rev the engine out miles later and take the sharp edges off the top rings!! So warm your Oil to full operation temp and give that engine full rpm right after its oil reaches full temp!!
100% true… need to do slight rpm variation initially to seat the piston rings to the cylinder walls and then need to get to wide open throttle asap to seat the rest of the engine bearings. 500 mile “break in” is BS. Makes me want to do a video on how it should actually be done
If for nothing else it is probably wisest to follow protocol for peace of mind. It would be terrible to blow up your new Hellcat or, worse, your Demon before 500 miles and Dodge has a way to pull data to refuse repair. These are mass produced engines and likely nothing close to the quality of a professionally built race car.
@@Apex_Predator_PlumpCat they won’t have a clue if your followed their procedures or not
@@Apex_Predator_PlumpCat sir I will say this to your response! I’ve had multiple trailered race cars and multiple very mild Street and Strip modern EFI NA and Supercharged 30,000 mile a year daily drivers and never not once breaked in an engine for the reasons I stated in my original comment! For example my Supercharged Foxbody daily driver that I sold with 185,000 miles that 20 years ago ran a very mild 11.50’s at 120 mph with functional AC and would pass NJ State emissions! That was with an AOD Transmission! My serous Race car was a NA 351C that could turn 8500 RPM as a pushrod engine and ran 10,0’s at 133-135 in good air and put 400-450 passes per year and never breaking in any engine I’ve owned! It’s a Myth guys!
Trailered race cars aren't meant to last 100k-200k miles, or 10-20 years. Top fuel engines are lucky to hold together for 4 seconds before they need to be completely rebuilt. NASCAR and INDY motors are broken in during testing, and builders hope they stay together for 500 miles, not 150k miles.
So you don't recommend the Cleetus McFarland method, then?
2 step check brother!
I want to take my 23 Redeye to hennessey performance to get a 1000whp upgrade. My question is this not good to do with a car that has 23 miles. I live in vermont so the only time I can really do this is when it leaves the dealer and ships directly to them. This way when it gets to me it’s really. Thoughts on ppl doing aftermarket upgrades on new cars with companies like Saleen, Roush, Hennessey ?
I ordered and purchased a 2016 Charger Scat Pack. It's damn near the same car. Mine was under $40K. Dodge is selling hype. I can't afford hype, especially for just stickers. Triple
I have very carefully broken in 4 Hellcats and 4 Scats and never had ANY problems with any of them..
Plain and simple. If you do not break it in, it is proven on Dyno testing from me. The vehicle will not have as much horsepower as the vehicle that was broken in properly.
Break it in like you do a H.O. Motorcycle! You don't want a lazy motor. Warm it up, drive in town stoplight to stoplight with lots of heat cycles and vary the RPM's. Brief full throttle acceleration is acceptable. Drop oil at 500mi then at 1500mi & then every 5K with full synthetic.
In the manual between 300-500 miles it says to exercise the full rpm range. Does that mean take it to redline? 500-1500 miles it says no track events. Does this mean to continue the break in to 1500 miles before driving it to its full potential?
Yes, it means run it the full rpm range. But only for a short time, and not running it from a dead standstill. It means going down the highway and hitting passing gear and running it up the rpm range. Or being in second or third gear and running it up for a short period of time. Drag strip, (or track), is putting a heavy load on the engine and drivetrain. Doing a rolling run doesn’t put the same strain on it. 😃
The way I read it after 500 miles go for it. Just don't race it for another 1000 miles. You'll notice they say for the first 300-500 miles don't hold the pedal to the floor. One can conclude after 500 it's ok to do that (although I'd still feel like I was thrashing it).
Makes sense, Camakat just got his demon 170 and As soon as he got it he was just beating that thing💀💀
I've never understood the desire to "save money" on oil changes.
Was easy on my redeye for 100mi then gave it hell and changed the oil at 1000mi... Changed every 3k theresafter and doesnt consume any oil.
There is nothing in the manual about changing oil until 6K miles. VW Golf R posts break-in instructions and first oil change at 10K miles. I mean, the Germans aren't slouches when it comes to car maintenance.
Racer X is smiling on the inside.
ill be asleep during live will have to watch after i get to work
Short bursts, varied rpm during the cycle.
What happened to your demon reveal?missed live video 😢
I followed my brake in procedure to the letter
I'm always cringed out when I see people jump in their car and drive off right away. Like let the fluids cycle a little first
Definitely warm up. That's part of proper maintenance...
So what's the story of the unveiling schedule?