Hello, I bought a Chinese HB860H, it is supposed to be the equivalent of that controller, and I connected an emergency STOP switch that I verified that it worked with a tester but the controller does not stop or the red light comes on, you do not know what could be happening? The switch is exactly the same as the one you put yourself in another video ALM + and ALM- on each pole. I don't understand why it doesn't work.
I know it's been a while since you posted this video. I am currently driving my motor with the HBS860H servo drive using the Dir, ENA, Pul using an ESP32. However I could easily reduce the flash memory if I could send a serial "rotation" command directly into the RS232. Do you know if this is possible using a microcontroller RS232 Serial connection directly? Thank you in advance.
Dear i am using the NC studio for cnc milling and it is configured with hybrid servo drive but I can use the encoder can I get help for this where to i need connection for alarm positive and minus
i think with the normaly open way you hooked the drive up to a seperate channel it makes it eazier to see wat made the machine stop (limit switch or driver ) prolly makes it simpler to find the fault
Almost done Stuart! :-) Check out the photo album. goo.gl/photos/QvkXpovTbE3Epyj3A Operator's console got installed today. I will be doing another update video and showing DMM's new AUTOTUNE feature.
Frank, consult, I have 3.2 amp stepper motors as I can regulate the current output with this hybrid controller. And by default with how many micropasses this hybrid controller comes. Thank you for your support.
Franco or others, if still monitoring these comments, I see you use a reset from the terminal to reset the ALM output on the hybrid stepper drive. What command is issued to the stepper drive (by RS232)? Or toggle the ENABLE input? Thanks.
Hey there. Thanks for the video! As you make it clear the alarm works as a switch, but I have a question: as I'm controlling the hybrid stepper motor with an PLC .. how you can clear(reset) the alarm so you can continue with the job? Or if the alarm is simply not connected to the PLC.. but the driver is giving the alarm.. how can I reset it? Right now I'm just turning off and on the power... No idea for other option :(
Franco thanks for the answer. So your CNC program control olso the power of the drive?when you press reset alarm in the program, it turns off and on the drive?
Constantin Nicu Hi. I have to manually turn off the power to reset the drives. This is typical, even for production CNC machines. You shouldn't get drive faults very often. I'm curious, what type of machine are you building?
Hey Franco, could these alarm pins be wired to emergency stop pins of a regular BOB so whenever one of the drivers gets into alarm situation it will trigger the E-Stop ? I didn't go too deep into how it works but in case it's not straight way connected it could send the command through a relay or mosfet to BOB's E-Stop. I plan to upgrade my CNC to hybrid steppers. Thank you.
Hi. The drive fault circuit on these drives is simply a normally closed output that opens when there is a problem. That's why you can connect several drives in series and tie them into one input on your BOB. You could easily wire them into your estop circuit.
@@FrancoCNC Thank you for response, that's good alternative solution for people that can't afford a Centroid Acorn board or don't want extra components.
Franco very good video and thanks for your time! I have the Leadshine HBS86H drivers with a Csmio IP-M controller and my query is as follows: when a cable is wrongly connected to the driver, should it be powered on? or not ? I consult this because I have 4 drivers connected and only 2 work well X and Z ... the Y and the A (slave axis) I jump the alarm when wanting to move the axes and I can not find a solution ... I hope you can give a hand! regards
Hi. My guess is that there is a problem with the drive enable connections. I'd try eliminating the drive enable connections - the drive should be enabled on power up. If everything works fine with the enable disconnected, then you know where you problem is.
Negative. If you look at the Centroid documentation "ACORN_rev3 STANDARD CONNECTIONS" you will see that they wire all of the drive alarm outputs in series. This assumes that you have NC alarm outputs (closed when OK and open during alarm). If you have NO alarm outputs, then you can wire all of the drive alarm output in parallel. I think it is better to use NC outputs wired in series, but if you don't have any other options, then NO outputs in parallel is another option.
Yes - the loop is closed between the driver and the motor. However, the driver DOES NOT proved feedback to the CNC (other than a simple alarm output should there be any missed steps). I really like these closed loop stepper systems and I think they work great.
Probably not. But, I will be using the DMM Servos on my next project - Techno Isel CNC lathe. The only reason I did not install the DMM servos on the Mill is my own stupidity. The first time I hooked them up, I forgot to switch the PS to 110V. The drives acted strange and the PS actually blew up after a few hours of use. I sent everything back to DMM and moved forward with the Hybrid Steppers. By the time the DMM folks helped me understand my mistake, I'd already become comfortable with the Hybrid steppers on the Mill. I'm sort of in a hurry to get that Mill finished.
Franco, thanks for all your videos. I'm building up my PM-25V almost exactly like yours and this is extremely helpful. I have millions of questions. Would love to see more information on your cabinet for the electronics. Looks like you went with a separate power supply for each motor instead of getting 1 larger power supply? Any particular reason? I was thinking a larger 48V power supply would save some space and create less heat than 3. Have you considered wiring your E-stop from the mill and CNC on 1 switch. I don't want to have to push 2 buttons to shut the whole system down.
Hi Brad. I'm glad you like the videos. When I have time, I'll do a video on the electrical cabinet. I used separate power supplies because that's how FastToBuy sells the drive/motor/PS package on eBay. I'm sure you could use one large power supply and get the same end result. Regarding the E-Stop, I may power the milling machine through the control cabinet - I just haven't got that far as of yet. One thing to consider is the current draw. I've already had to increase the breaker in the electrical cabinet to 15amps. I've wired up all of my power supplies to be 220V but when I was using a 10amp breaker, it would often trip during power up. That problem has gone away with the 15amp breaker. Eventually, I'll experiment with powering the mill through the control cabinet and see how that works.
Thanks Franco. Actually that makes me think I'll keep them separate. My entire garage is only on 1 circuit with a 15 amp breaker. If I'm milling and my compressor kicks on it throws the breaker. Maybe it couldn't handle the cabinet and mill at the same time.
You may want to add another circuit or two to your breaker box. I mount the receptacles very close to the box and to avoid fishing wires through my walls/attic. I just make really heavy duty extension cables and plug them in when I'm using the machines.
I'd like to but my circuit breaker box is maxed out. Luckily it is located in my garage so I may need to get an electrician to replace it with a bigger box and run some extra outlets. Possibly thinking about downsizing my house and up sizing my garage so may just try to work with what I have now. I was thinking about the E-STOP on the mill. I pulled the face plate off my PM25 to look at it and I think I can add a second switch to it easily to turn it into a double pole single throw. Then run 2 wires from the newly added switch down to the acorn 24v input and common so the mill E-Stop can shut down Acorn as well. This is the switch that is on 1 side of the mill E-Stop. www.alliedelec.com/idec-corporation-yw-e01/70278068/ Another one should just snap in on the other side of the switch. It's a 120V AC switch, is there any reason it wouldn't work for 24v DC?
I think the ALM output is an open collector Output. Did you have to use an Pull Up Resistor in order to detect the change of state of your output?
If one driver lost power the switch close too?
Could you please share the wiring diagram for the serial to rs232 cable. I don't think it's the same as the one I have for HBS507 driver. Thanks
Hello, I bought a Chinese HB860H, it is supposed to be the equivalent of that controller, and I connected an emergency STOP switch that I verified that it worked with a tester but the controller does not stop or the red light comes on, you do not know what could be happening? The switch is exactly the same as the one you put yourself in another video ALM + and ALM- on each pole. I don't understand why it doesn't work.
What communication card do you use?
I have the CL86Y. I hooked mine up the same way but keep getting false drive faults. I might be getting interference. I’ll have to try NC.
Hello Franco,
is there actually an auto tuning for these power amplifiers? If so, which dip switch is it?
I know it's been a while since you posted this video. I am currently driving my motor with the HBS860H servo drive using the Dir, ENA, Pul using an ESP32. However I could easily reduce the flash memory if I could send a serial "rotation" command directly into the RS232. Do you know if this is possible using a microcontroller RS232 Serial connection directly? Thank you in advance.
Hi. I don't think the serial communications port will accommodate that. I believe it is only for programming the unit - not controlling it.
Thank you for responding. How does the programming UI send test commands to check rotation?
@@FrancoCNC
Dear i am using the NC studio for cnc milling and it is configured with hybrid servo drive but I can use the encoder can I get help for this where to i need connection for alarm positive and minus
Hi! Have you used AC or DC voltage?
i think with the normaly open way you hooked the drive up to a seperate channel it makes it eazier to see wat made the machine stop (limit switch or driver ) prolly makes it simpler to find the fault
Marty needs to hurry up with that emco lathe project haha. He makes great videos!
Almost done Stuart! :-) Check out the photo album. goo.gl/photos/QvkXpovTbE3Epyj3A Operator's console got installed today. I will be doing another update video and showing DMM's new AUTOTUNE feature.
Franco,
What enclosure and breaker did you use for the control box?
where did you buy?
Frank, consult, I have 3.2 amp stepper motors as I can regulate the current output with this hybrid controller. And by default with how many micropasses this hybrid controller comes. Thank you for your support.
As I recall, I believe it is 2000. But, you can download the software and change that if you have the programming cable.
Franco or others, if still monitoring these comments, I see you use a reset from the terminal to reset the ALM output on the hybrid stepper drive. What command is issued to the stepper drive (by RS232)? Or toggle the ENABLE input? Thanks.
Toggling enable won't clear the alarm output, nor will RS232 commands unfortunately. Only way to clear the alarm on these drives is to power cycle.
If your machining how would you clear a drive fault? Would you have to power cycle the acorn?
You wouldn't have to power cycle the acorn but the drives would need to be power cycled.
Hey there. Thanks for the video!
As you make it clear the alarm works as a switch, but I have a question: as I'm controlling the hybrid stepper motor with an PLC .. how you can clear(reset) the alarm so you can continue with the job? Or if the alarm is simply not connected to the PLC.. but the driver is giving the alarm.. how can I reset it? Right now I'm just turning off and on the power... No idea for other option :(
Hi. To the best of my knowledge, you have to power down the drive to clear the alarms.
Franco thanks for the answer. So your CNC program control olso the power of the drive?when you press reset alarm in the program, it turns off and on the drive?
Constantin Nicu Hi. I have to manually turn off the power to reset the drives. This is typical, even for production CNC machines. You shouldn't get drive faults very often. I'm curious, what type of machine are you building?
Hey Franco, could these alarm pins be wired to emergency stop pins of a regular BOB so whenever one of the drivers gets into alarm situation it will trigger the E-Stop ? I didn't go too deep into how it works but in case it's not straight way connected it could send the command through a relay or mosfet to BOB's E-Stop. I plan to upgrade my CNC to hybrid steppers.
Thank you.
Hi. The drive fault circuit on these drives is simply a normally closed output that opens when there is a problem. That's why you can connect several drives in series and tie them into one input on your BOB. You could easily wire them into your estop circuit.
@@FrancoCNC Thank you for response, that's good alternative solution for people that can't afford a Centroid Acorn board or don't want extra components.
Awesome as usual! keep it informative and easy to understand 👍
Franco very good video and thanks for your time!
I have the Leadshine HBS86H drivers with a Csmio IP-M controller and my query is as follows: when a cable is wrongly connected to the driver, should it be powered on? or not ?
I consult this because I have 4 drivers connected and only 2 work well X and Z ... the Y and the A (slave axis) I jump the alarm when wanting to move the axes and I can not find a solution ... I hope you can give a hand! regards
Hi. My guess is that there is a problem with the drive enable connections. I'd try eliminating the drive enable connections - the drive should be enabled on power up. If everything works fine with the enable disconnected, then you know where you problem is.
Thanks Franco for your advice ... actually I had an encoder cable disconnected so the alarm went off, but it's fixed
your videos are very good !!!
Greetings Jorge
What size box are you using for all the controllers/PSUs? I'm at the point I need to seal everything up. Thanks!
19" x 15" x 8" would be the outside dimensions of my enclosure.
@@FrancoCNC Thanks, I will start looking:-)
Thanks a lot 👍
At 4:30 did you mean paralell?
Negative. If you look at the Centroid documentation "ACORN_rev3 STANDARD CONNECTIONS" you will see that they wire all of the drive alarm outputs in series. This assumes that you have NC alarm outputs (closed when OK and open during alarm). If you have NO alarm outputs, then you can wire all of the drive alarm output in parallel. I think it is better to use NC outputs wired in series, but if you don't have any other options, then NO outputs in parallel is another option.
I am thinking about buying these drivers. How are they performing? Do you use them in a closed loop system?
I saw the encoders on your stepper motors, so you use the closed loop system. :)
Yes - the loop is closed between the driver and the motor. However, the driver DOES NOT proved feedback to the CNC (other than a simple alarm output should there be any missed steps). I really like these closed loop stepper systems and I think they work great.
Franco thank you for answering. What motors do you use and where did you buy the motors & drivers and for how much? Thanks again!
Check this out: th-cam.com/video/j9EpLjhIOVQ/w-d-xo.html
Franco,
Do you plan on switching to the dmm servos for the PM25
Probably not. But, I will be using the DMM Servos on my next project - Techno Isel CNC lathe. The only reason I did not install the DMM servos on the Mill is my own stupidity. The first time I hooked them up, I forgot to switch the PS to 110V. The drives acted strange and the PS actually blew up after a few hours of use. I sent everything back to DMM and moved forward with the Hybrid Steppers. By the time the DMM folks helped me understand my mistake, I'd already become comfortable with the Hybrid steppers on the Mill. I'm sort of in a hurry to get that Mill finished.
Franco, thanks for all your videos. I'm building up my PM-25V almost exactly like yours and this is extremely helpful. I have millions of questions. Would love to see more information on your cabinet for the electronics. Looks like you went with a separate power supply for each motor instead of getting 1 larger power supply? Any particular reason? I was thinking a larger 48V power supply would save some space and create less heat than 3. Have you considered wiring your E-stop from the mill and CNC on 1 switch. I don't want to have to push 2 buttons to shut the whole system down.
ansewer him pls?
Hi Brad. I'm glad you like the videos. When I have time, I'll do a video on the electrical cabinet. I used separate power supplies because that's how FastToBuy sells the drive/motor/PS package on eBay. I'm sure you could use one large power supply and get the same end result. Regarding the E-Stop, I may power the milling machine through the control cabinet - I just haven't got that far as of yet. One thing to consider is the current draw. I've already had to increase the breaker in the electrical cabinet to 15amps. I've wired up all of my power supplies to be 220V but when I was using a 10amp breaker, it would often trip during power up. That problem has gone away with the 15amp breaker. Eventually, I'll experiment with powering the mill through the control cabinet and see how that works.
Thanks Franco. Actually that makes me think I'll keep them separate. My entire garage is only on 1 circuit with a 15 amp breaker. If I'm milling and my compressor kicks on it throws the breaker. Maybe it couldn't handle the cabinet and mill at the same time.
You may want to add another circuit or two to your breaker box. I mount the receptacles very close to the box and to avoid fishing wires through my walls/attic. I just make really heavy duty extension cables and plug them in when I'm using the machines.
I'd like to but my circuit breaker box is maxed out. Luckily it is located in my garage so I may need to get an electrician to replace it with a bigger box and run some extra outlets. Possibly thinking about downsizing my house and up sizing my garage so may just try to work with what I have now. I was thinking about the E-STOP on the mill. I pulled the face plate off my PM25 to look at it and I think I can add a second switch to it easily to turn it into a double pole single throw. Then run 2 wires from the newly added switch down to the acorn 24v input and common so the mill E-Stop can shut down Acorn as well. This is the switch that is on 1 side of the mill E-Stop. www.alliedelec.com/idec-corporation-yw-e01/70278068/
Another one should just snap in on the other side of the switch. It's a 120V AC switch, is there any reason it wouldn't work for 24v DC?
this definetely helped
Maaf bosku ane punya barang kaya ginih masi baru kali ajh ada yg minat
них не понятно..что по русски не мог что ли?)))
If your machining how would you clear a drive fault? Would you have to power cycle the acorn?