true, i've experienced the joys of cleaning sealant off my floor on more occasions than i would have liked. i appreciate the tip, been certainly curious about TPU tubes and will give them a try soon.
I've been running ghetto tubeless on my monster cross bike for a decade now (700x40c). Setup video on my channel "Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Tubeless Setup". I do run the Stans rims and they have a special bead shape to help work with non-tubeless tires. Only had one flat in about 18K miles due to a nail passing through the tread out out the sidewall just above the bead. I ran tubes in these tires for a few years and the difference in ride and grip after going tubeless was amazing. I've not run tubeless on narrower tires.
neat, i'll check the video out. i've never tried (or been successful i should say) at getting non tubeless tires on tubeless rims. glad to hear it works, maybe it's a higher probability play than the way i tried it (tubeless tires, non-tubeless rims). i think i have some of those mondials, will consider giving that a try, thanks.
@@biking-places I think the Stans rims are designed for tubeless conversions with non-tubeless tires, at least back in the day. My wheels came pre-taped and ready to mount tires on. The Mondials are the only tires I've used tubeless and they've worked quite well for me. I'm running them at half their rated pressure.
I've tried it on my MTB and allroad bike, all rims and tires were tubeless ready, It's not worth the hassle and mess to me. I have since switched to TPU tubes, for me they are the answer, light weight, good ride at lower tire pressure just like tubeless and no mess. I have only gotten one flat on them in two years and 1000s of miles on four bikes.
fair enough. i think if i didn't get lucky with a few easy setups in the beginning i would have been in your camp. it really is a huge hassle when it doesn't work quite right. how low can you realistically run those TPU tubes without getting pinch flats? to me the lower pressure, better grip/ride quality is as big of a selling point as the flat protection.
@@biking-places I have run my 650bx47 gravel tires at 31 psi and 29x2.35 mtb tires at 19 psi for two years with no pinch flats yet, I am about 155 Lbs. I'm not an aggressive rider though. I can definitely see the benefits of tubeless for more rocky trails than I ride though.
To me they’re well worth it. Switched to tubeless with 40mm gravel tires on 21mm internal width rims (both tubeless ready) and it was great. Have since used different 40mm gravel tires on the same wheels and now 35mm road tires on 25mm internal width rims and it’s all been great. Setup has been a breeze for me with just a floor pump. From what I see, I seem to fall on the luckier side of things as far as compatibility goes. Combinations I’ve had success with: - Bontrager Paradigm SL TLR wheels + Bontrager GR-1 Team Issue 40mm tires + Bontrager TLR sealant - Bontrager Paradigm SL TLR wheels + Schwalbe G-One RS 40mm tires + Silca Ultimate Tubeless Sealant - Bontrager Paradigm Comp 25 TLR wheels + Continental Grand Prix 5000 AllSeason TR 35mm tires + Silca Ultimate Tubeless Sealant It may be worth noting that I’ve had Bontrager TLR Rim Strips installed in both wheel sets and didn’t need tubeless tape as a result. And the Bontrager sealant wasn’t particularly impressive, while the Silca stuff has done its job quite well. I’m a heavy rider so the lower pressures I can run tubeless have made the ride more comfortable than I ever thought possible. The setup fuss isn’t ideal, but it’s been minimal for me and the benefits have been fantastic.
thanks for the details. i totally agree, there's some effort and occasional aggravation but it's worth it for tires in those sizes. for what its worth i think the technology is getting better and some of the old growing pains are likely to go away. i use stan's sealant and it's worked great for me by and large so far.
ah yes, this is also a good option. i personally haven't done that on my own bikes cause i like the extra comfort from running tubeless at lower pressures. it makes a lot of sense for touring though because you're unlikely to ever need to mess with them on the road.
I love it i use it on crank brothes iodine 3 wheels no spoke holes. I also use it on normal wheels. The only drawback is sealer blocking the valve cores over time.
yeah, those no spoke hole wheelsets really make the process so much easier. i imagine you can clean out those blocked valve cores once in a while with a toothpick or a spoke. it is a little more effort and maintenance but i agree its worth it.
Biking places I can't get crank brothers wheels cheap in the UK any more not happy a big retailer went bust but I will be paying the extra cost for a set for my new bike eventually.
I have a pair of H + Son Archetypes that work perfectly with 35mm ghetto tubeless, I tried it for about a week with no problems. I put the tubes back in because it doesn't have the right rim profile and that's unsafe, but it worked fine.
yeah, mine worked too for a while until it didn't. this bike is my neighborhood beater and its a real hassle to pick it up to find the tires won't inflate when i'm running late. i know for some people ghetto tubeless works no problem but i'm not inclined to go through the hassle again.
Great suggestions. And if you forgive me, have you considered lowering your saddle a bit? It seems like your lower back is rocking quite a bit at 5:35 onwards.
thanks for watching and for the feedback. i think what you're seeing there is mostly just the jacket moving. its a little tapered towards the bottom (especially when you have a certain type of... figure) so it's just moving along with my legs. i have set my saddle too high in the past and got pretty rapid feedback in my ankles and knees, it was not a good time.
Unless you have issues with goat heads, no not worth it, works out to be about 2 or 3 oz per tire in weight savings. Pressure is all the same, burp vs pinch flat, all the same, messing up your wheels either way
some good thoughts here, thanks. i did have some goat head issues in greece (mentioned it briefly in that video). the touring tires with their kevlar or whatever did fine actually but the gravel tires couldn't go an hr without a flat until we replaced the tubes with sealant. not much of an issue for most of the places i ride. interestingly i haven't had issues with burping significant amount of air yet. i know some friends have but hasn't happened to me. i don't really think of tubeless as much of a weight saving measure, i like to use a lot of sealant so i don't have to think about it for a long time.
yeah, agreed. i saw many tutorials mention using soap but didn't really understand what for. the setups have been smoother for me though when i use it in the beginning.
nice, i'm also a fan. i did get a flat once though from a super large and sharp piece of metal. i ended up having to get a tube in there after trying plugs for a while. i patched the inside and its back to tubeless now, still going strong. besides flat protection i just love the softer ride quality.
@@siriosstar4789 let's put this way: after 40 years riding tubes I changed to TL. Advantages: less pressure, more comfort, better performance overall. No pumps or spare tubes on back pockets. Can you still say the same about tubes?
30mm tubeless tires on 25 internal width rims. The tires inflate to 32mm, are comfy, and no flats. Setup was a doddle. I won't go back to clinchers and tubes.
interesting, i tend to use skinny rims with fatter tires rather than the other way around. i wonder if you're pushing the limits there. agreed, though, for that width i'm happy to stick with tubeless.
@@robinseibel7540 nice. i've done a bunch of digging looking at charts to figure out if i can have a massive fat tire on a tiny skinny rim. seems like the answer is yes and you can see most early 26ers had very skinny rims with 2.1+ tires. what i remember finding somewhere was that it's more of a problem going too narrow of a tire on a too wide rim but it sounds like you're safe with your combo.
@@biking-places Yes, there still are some companies and riders who push safety limits. Zipp and Enve both still suggest minimum tire sizes that are smaller than ETRTO suggests, and they both only offer hookless tubeless rims.
i agree it's got the highest benefit to effort for mtb. i think it's the other disciplines where the cost/benefit is less obvious. plus some people just don't like new things is a sense i'm getting from the comments.
yeah, i noticed in the MTB world they are widely used and much less controversial. i haven't done a full on international touring trip using tubeless yet but i'm leaning towards giving that a try soon. i just need a more touring focused tubeless wheelset, the low spoke count ultegra wheels are not quite heavy duty enough in my opinion.
Tubeless tires and oil supplied disk brakes. Both of them - on the scrap heap. For that matter -hollow tech bottom brackets and threadless headsets. Shit can .
i happen to be quite fond of hollowtech bbs + cranks. i like the idea of the spindle belonging to the crank rather than having a million different length spindles on BBs. they are also much easier to install and remove.
@@biking-places Me neither. Just eyeballing a square taper axle vs a hollow tech , the square taper looks more solid. Plus (and this goes for threadless headsets) it looks like a square taper is going stay put under duress. I think the hollow tech BB and the threadless headsets are fine for road riding. These are what I have . I don't do off road cycling . Maybe some dirt roads if I come across them.
Try TPU tubes.
Rides almost as well, but without the hassle.
And imagine spilling sealant where you don't want it, that alone is a big no-no for me.
true, i've experienced the joys of cleaning sealant off my floor on more occasions than i would have liked. i appreciate the tip, been certainly curious about TPU tubes and will give them a try soon.
I've been running ghetto tubeless on my monster cross bike for a decade now (700x40c). Setup video on my channel "Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Tubeless Setup". I do run the Stans rims and they have a special bead shape to help work with non-tubeless tires. Only had one flat in about 18K miles due to a nail passing through the tread out out the sidewall just above the bead. I ran tubes in these tires for a few years and the difference in ride and grip after going tubeless was amazing. I've not run tubeless on narrower tires.
neat, i'll check the video out. i've never tried (or been successful i should say) at getting non tubeless tires on tubeless rims. glad to hear it works, maybe it's a higher probability play than the way i tried it (tubeless tires, non-tubeless rims). i think i have some of those mondials, will consider giving that a try, thanks.
@@biking-places I think the Stans rims are designed for tubeless conversions with non-tubeless tires, at least back in the day. My wheels came pre-taped and ready to mount tires on. The Mondials are the only tires I've used tubeless and they've worked quite well for me. I'm running them at half their rated pressure.
I've tried it on my MTB and allroad bike, all rims and tires were tubeless ready, It's not worth the hassle and mess to me. I have since switched to TPU tubes, for me they are the answer, light weight, good ride at lower tire pressure just like tubeless and no mess. I have only gotten one flat on them in two years and 1000s of miles on four bikes.
fair enough. i think if i didn't get lucky with a few easy setups in the beginning i would have been in your camp. it really is a huge hassle when it doesn't work quite right. how low can you realistically run those TPU tubes without getting pinch flats? to me the lower pressure, better grip/ride quality is as big of a selling point as the flat protection.
@@biking-places I have run my 650bx47 gravel tires at 31 psi and 29x2.35 mtb tires at 19 psi for two years with no pinch flats yet, I am about 155 Lbs. I'm not an aggressive rider though. I can definitely see the benefits of tubeless for more rocky trails than I ride though.
ok that's pretty low pressure. i've been thinking about giving TPUs a try anyway, maybe i'll get on that soon.
This is the answer
To me they’re well worth it. Switched to tubeless with 40mm gravel tires on 21mm internal width rims (both tubeless ready) and it was great. Have since used different 40mm gravel tires on the same wheels and now 35mm road tires on 25mm internal width rims and it’s all been great. Setup has been a breeze for me with just a floor pump. From what I see, I seem to fall on the luckier side of things as far as compatibility goes.
Combinations I’ve had success with:
- Bontrager Paradigm SL TLR wheels + Bontrager GR-1 Team Issue 40mm tires + Bontrager TLR sealant
- Bontrager Paradigm SL TLR wheels + Schwalbe G-One RS 40mm tires + Silca Ultimate Tubeless Sealant
- Bontrager Paradigm Comp 25 TLR wheels + Continental Grand Prix 5000 AllSeason TR 35mm tires + Silca Ultimate Tubeless Sealant
It may be worth noting that I’ve had Bontrager TLR Rim Strips installed in both wheel sets and didn’t need tubeless tape as a result. And the Bontrager sealant wasn’t particularly impressive, while the Silca stuff has done its job quite well.
I’m a heavy rider so the lower pressures I can run tubeless have made the ride more comfortable than I ever thought possible. The setup fuss isn’t ideal, but it’s been minimal for me and the benefits have been fantastic.
thanks for the details. i totally agree, there's some effort and occasional aggravation but it's worth it for tires in those sizes. for what its worth i think the technology is getting better and some of the old growing pains are likely to go away. i use stan's sealant and it's worked great for me by and large so far.
Absolutely worth it. 100%
i tend to agree but not 100%. for certain bikes/riding styles it makes enough sense for me but not always.
Using sealant-filled inners on the mtb, which I think gives me the benefits of tubeless without the mess. TPU inners on my road bike, feel real fast
ah yes, this is also a good option. i personally haven't done that on my own bikes cause i like the extra comfort from running tubeless at lower pressures. it makes a lot of sense for touring though because you're unlikely to ever need to mess with them on the road.
Yes. Next question.
are bladed spokes worth it?
@@biking-places No
fair enough. i don't mind them myself but i don't feel strongly enough to make a video.
I love it i use it on crank brothes iodine 3 wheels no spoke holes. I also use it on normal wheels. The only drawback is sealer blocking the valve cores over time.
yeah, those no spoke hole wheelsets really make the process so much easier. i imagine you can clean out those blocked valve cores once in a while with a toothpick or a spoke. it is a little more effort and maintenance but i agree its worth it.
Biking places I can't get crank brothers wheels cheap in the UK any more not happy a big retailer went bust but I will be paying the extra cost for a set for my new bike eventually.
I have a pair of H + Son Archetypes that work perfectly with 35mm ghetto tubeless, I tried it for about a week with no problems. I put the tubes back in because it doesn't have the right rim profile and that's unsafe, but it worked fine.
yeah, mine worked too for a while until it didn't. this bike is my neighborhood beater and its a real hassle to pick it up to find the tires won't inflate when i'm running late. i know for some people ghetto tubeless works no problem but i'm not inclined to go through the hassle again.
Great suggestions. And if you forgive me, have you considered lowering your saddle a bit? It seems like your lower back is rocking quite a bit at 5:35 onwards.
thanks for watching and for the feedback. i think what you're seeing there is mostly just the jacket moving. its a little tapered towards the bottom (especially when you have a certain type of... figure) so it's just moving along with my legs. i have set my saddle too high in the past and got pretty rapid feedback in my ankles and knees, it was not a good time.
Unless you have issues with goat heads, no not worth it, works out to be about 2 or 3 oz per tire in weight savings. Pressure is all the same, burp vs pinch flat, all the same, messing up your wheels either way
some good thoughts here, thanks. i did have some goat head issues in greece (mentioned it briefly in that video). the touring tires with their kevlar or whatever did fine actually but the gravel tires couldn't go an hr without a flat until we replaced the tubes with sealant. not much of an issue for most of the places i ride.
interestingly i haven't had issues with burping significant amount of air yet. i know some friends have but hasn't happened to me.
i don't really think of tubeless as much of a weight saving measure, i like to use a lot of sealant so i don't have to think about it for a long time.
I had some problems with seating the tire beads (I didn’t know I could use soap water) but the lower pressure is definitely worth it.
yeah, agreed. i saw many tutorials mention using soap but didn't really understand what for. the setups have been smoother for me though when i use it in the beginning.
some of that footage from Switzerland?
not too far, slovenia. i have a video about it if you're curious but its stunningly gorgeous.
@@biking-places ah cool. I did visit there a few times but now with the bike and just near the sea side.
more than 15k km on tubeless on and off road with zero flats.
nice, i'm also a fan. i did get a flat once though from a super large and sharp piece of metal. i ended up having to get a tube in there after trying plugs for a while. i patched the inside and its back to tubeless now, still going strong. besides flat protection i just love the softer ride quality.
@@siriosstar4789 let's put this way: after 40 years riding tubes I changed to TL. Advantages: less pressure, more comfort, better performance overall. No pumps or spare tubes on back pockets. Can you still say the same about tubes?
30mm tubeless tires on 25 internal width rims. The tires inflate to 32mm, are comfy, and no flats. Setup was a doddle. I won't go back to clinchers and tubes.
interesting, i tend to use skinny rims with fatter tires rather than the other way around. i wonder if you're pushing the limits there. agreed, though, for that width i'm happy to stick with tubeless.
@@biking-places My setup satisfies ETRTO standards, so it's safe. My rims also have mini-hooks, so they're not hookless rims.
The rims are also road rims.
@@robinseibel7540 nice. i've done a bunch of digging looking at charts to figure out if i can have a massive fat tire on a tiny skinny rim. seems like the answer is yes and you can see most early 26ers had very skinny rims with 2.1+ tires. what i remember finding somewhere was that it's more of a problem going too narrow of a tire on a too wide rim but it sounds like you're safe with your combo.
@@biking-places Yes, there still are some companies and riders who push safety limits. Zipp and Enve both still suggest minimum tire sizes that are smaller than ETRTO suggests, and they both only offer hookless tubeless rims.
No brainer best thing since sliced bread no hassel for mtb. 30mm wide rims x 650b never had trouble sealing
i agree it's got the highest benefit to effort for mtb. i think it's the other disciplines where the cost/benefit is less obvious. plus some people just don't like new things is a sense i'm getting from the comments.
For MTb, yes obviously, for touring not so much.
yeah, i noticed in the MTB world they are widely used and much less controversial. i haven't done a full on international touring trip using tubeless yet but i'm leaning towards giving that a try soon. i just need a more touring focused tubeless wheelset, the low spoke count ultegra wheels are not quite heavy duty enough in my opinion.
Wider, not thicker. Just saying. I run tubeless on my road bike with Pirelli P Zero Race TLR RS in 30. Great set up.
good point, thanks. if my bike could clear 30s i'd maybe give it a try but i'd still prefer wider.
No. Next question.
are TIG welded frames more aero than MIG?
Tubeless tires and oil supplied disk brakes. Both of them - on the scrap heap. For that matter -hollow tech bottom brackets and threadless headsets. Shit can .
i happen to be quite fond of hollowtech bbs + cranks. i like the idea of the spindle belonging to the crank rather than having a million different length spindles on BBs. they are also much easier to install and remove.
@@biking-places Sure. I think that they are'nt as strong as a square taper.
@@bellavia5 i haven't destroyed enough to know for sure as of yet
@@biking-places Me neither. Just eyeballing a square taper axle vs a hollow tech , the square taper looks more solid. Plus (and this goes for threadless headsets) it looks like a square taper is going stay put under duress. I think the hollow tech BB and the threadless headsets are fine for road riding. These are what I have . I don't do off road cycling . Maybe some dirt roads if I come across them.
Found the luddite
No
never?
@ I’ll try again in 2035
@@Jacob99174 fair enough, they'll work out the kinks by then
No no no 😂
but have you really given it a proper try?
no
not even a little bit?
@@biking-places no
Hard nope for me.
why not if i may ask? too much setup effort, not enough benefit or something else?