Stihl MS250 Won't Start-Fixed
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มี.ค. 2023
- Customer complaint is that this Stihl MS250 won't start. We look at getting this saw running again and also learn some lessons about staying on track while working in a shop environment. #smallenginerepair
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Put a fuel line in my 250 today! Dealer actually had one in stock. It was Oregon brand but worked good! I didn't take out that throttle choke rail deal but carb came off went back on no problem. I use it for limbing works good!
I've used the Oregon fuel hoses. I don't remember any of them coming back with issues.
Thanks again for a good video learning a lot from you Scott thanks again appreciate it very much
Thanks, and I appreciate you watching.
Glad I found your channel.
So am I. Thanks for watching!
My old Homelite Super XL AO, circa 1971, was and still is a nice hard working saw. The newer ones, well, you almost said it.
I just picked up a couple Homelite Super EZ saws. I like the old ones.
Thanks for sharing this video. It helped me fix a used saw that wouldn't run due to the spring tab falling under the choke cross bar.
Glad to have helped and thanks for watching!
I’ve had the carb out of my MS250 a couple of times now, and have never had to remove the choke lever bar. It’s a bit tight, but the carb comes out just fine.
On some models it comes out fine and some not so much. I've just got into the habit of removing it.
I felt uncomfortable without a towel covering most of your workbench, I’m so used to seeing it there! 😉 I was actually thinking about the advantages of doing that myself. 👍🔧
Ya I'm about out of those towels and the boss doesn't plan on us getting more. It sure is nice for keeping screws from rolling around. I know I could use a magnet cup but they can be annoying.
@@TheGreasyShopRag
Nowadays people toss perfectly good towels to get a whole new “designer” set for the house. I get most of my stuff off FreeCycle but also at some local thrift shops. If you offer one item (can be anything) on FreeCycle then you can start asking for things. I’d probably have half a dozen I rotated through the shop and wash them several at a time to keep a supply on hand. Just keep dirty ones in a 5-gallon bucket with a tight lid to avoid spontaneous combustion. Just a thought!
@@Rein_Ciarfella Thanks for the info.
hey man, who makes that long flexible pen light you used to look at the fuel line after draining the tank?
www.streamlight.com/products/detail/stylus-reach-18
Hey, Scott, I had an interesting encounter today with a new customer. She overheard me talking about something and asked if I repair chainsaws. Her report was she hasn’t used it in years and wants it gone over. She mentioned she also wants the chain tension adjusted. That one sentence told me all I need to know! 😂👍🔧
Ya some times those little clues really tell you the experience level of an owner. Do you ever get nervous that someone is gonna hurt themselves with a saw you repaired? Not because of something you did but because they are a novice.
@@TheGreasyShopRag
Yes, absolutely! Had a customer bring in an electric corded saw she got for free somewhere. Homelite in near perfect condition really just needed a cleaning and missing washer replaced. When I gave it back to her I found out she has zero experience. I told here they can be very dangerous and to read the owner’s manual completely before attempting to use it. I guess everyone needs to start somewhere, but chainsaws add a whole extra level of dangerous. Definitely makes me a bit scared for newbies!
@@Rein_Ciarfella At a minimum I make sure they understand what the kickback zone is.
If that fuel leak is at the hole in the tank where the line goes through, I fixed a loose line there once so far by removing the line and adding some Threebond 1184. I let it set up really well overnight and pulled the line back through the next day it’s been months and the saw hasn’t leaked a drop since.
I know that works and have done it on mine and rental equipment. The problem with doing it on a customers saw is that if it leaks and they see the sealant then all of the sudden you're a hack mechanic even though its a legitimate repair. There is a clear product called Seal-all that I've had great luck with.
Sorry for comment on 7 month old post but I was excited since I installed a new carb and fuel line on my very old MS250 and have the exact fuel leak you demonstrated. Watched and was a tad disappointed that the fuel leak fix wasn’t directly shown. I’ve ordered another fuel line and will install it. Or should I be contemplating the use of a sealer as discussed in one of the comments? For the record, I suck at this but I’m not ready to give up. Thanks a ton for any advice.
If you ordered a new fuel line you should be fine by just installing it. That new line should seal decent in the top of the tank.
Good info. Could you leave signs to yourself for when you’re pulled away? Like sqcrench laying by gas cap.
I think one thing that is helping is that lately I've been updating work orders as I progress. If I write "fix fuel leak" when I find the fuel leak then maybe I won't forget it?
Yeah, I do this in my life all over the place. When I think I might forget to do something that’s not worth putting a timer into my phone. I call them triggers and they’re objects left in obvious but not normal places so I’ll see them and it will trigger the memory of what I was supposed to do.
Happens to us all. Question same say starts , runs for 30 secs and sounds fuel starved shuts down couple pulls with the trigger in high idle starts , same result. one more time touch throttle. kills it. Took carb apart, blew out all passages no real debris. Back together and same symptoms. Any ideas, I'm going after a kit this morning filter and fuel line good. Thanks LOL
It sounds like its starving for fuel. Lets assume the carb is good because you were in there already. You said fuel line was good. Was it pressure tested? Is there any evidence of fuel where the line comes out of the tank? If the hose and filter are not the cause of fuel starvation then maybe the pulse hose is damaged and the fuel pump isn't even working fully. If not those then look for a big air leak like the intake boot. Pressure testing the crankcase would answer that question. If none of that works then maybe it is a carb problem.
Thanks. I tried to get a kit today no luck I'll try online, got the carb number.
thanks again for your input.@@TheGreasyShopRag
where did you get the hook you use for pulling fuel ines out of the tank ? or is it shop made
Ya I banged all the flux off a welding rod and then pushed fuel hose over it.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thats what i thought thanks
@@TheGreasyShopRag
Man, I’ve used oxy welding rod for things like that for decades! Holds its shape better than copper rod or coat hangers. I’ve actually been meaning to make one modeled after Scott’s because I can see how both ends are useful depending on the shape of the tank.
@@Rein_Ciarfella I need to make a spare. I have a backup for most of my other tools and this one gets used all the time.
Good video!!!!,,,,,Where did you get that little light from??????,,,,,,Thanks
www.streamlight.com/products/detail/stylus-reach-18
Checking on the clutch
Good info here, glad for you it wasn't so bad to fix this after. I know it's a Stihl repair video, but have you ever run into an air leak between carb and manifold on a little husky 240? Just replace the gasket and still can't ajust the carb propelly. A soon as I spray carb cleaner in this area, the engine dies. Could the manifold be out of shape ? Don't want to bother you with this question, if you have any clue I will surely take it. Later !
Very possible the manifold is warped. You can try a layer of something like Threebond 1184.
I don't know for sure if I've run across thaat but I think I have one on or near my bench waiting for parts. I'll take a closer look at it. Could the throttle shaft be sloppy in the carb body? That could also explain it.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thanks for your reply, I will look for the throttle shaft tomorrow. After I discovered this air leak with brake cleaner, I removed the manifold and replace both gasket ( between manifold and cylinder / between manifold and carb ) and didn't fix my lean condition. The two nuts and the torx bolt that hold the manifold on the cylinder are tight. It was aftermarket gasket, maybe they are a little bit thinner than the original and doesn't seal well... or the manifold is warp.
@@simonv2248 You may never know the true reason for the leak unless you pressure test the engine.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Just want to tell you that a new intake manifold and gasket (OEM) for my Husqvarna 240 solved the lean condition I was having. Chainsaw now run's perfect. Thanks for your help and all the good video you put here
Another great video, Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
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