I just bought a four jaw... Fought with it for 1-1/2 hours. I was ready to carefully remove it from the lathe and throw it thru a wall. Glad I watched your video. After learning your two key trick, it took me 3 minutes to get it dead on. Thanks.
What a great informative video. I replayed your previous one several times but your method was a little difficult to follow...this one is crystal clear. Thanks for this really useful video. I have always been in awe of Adam's insanely fast 4 jaw alignment...now we can all get close
Thank you for an excellent video, this has explained very clearly the method used, you now have another subscriber and I am on my way to the garage now to make another chuck key, regards Doc Cox.
You are certainly right about the chuck. The four jaw is the only way to be sure youi are dead on. My 3 jaw chuck has nearly 15 thousandths of run out. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the suggestion. i measured the TIR when the lathe was new and it was 0.013" and I remeasure it recently and it is about .013. I don't think it will improve. I seldom use it unless I an going to finish whatever I do in on setting. Mostly I use the 4 jaw.
+cerberus If your chuck has a backplate you can loosen the mounting screws of the chuck to the plate while it's on your lathe and bump it around until you get the least run-out and lock it down. Also a big part is cleanliness of the mount itself. If you have a taper lock it is imperative that both surfaces are spotless. If it's a thread make sure there are no chips stuck in the threads or on the register.
+Halligan142 my 3 jaw chuck is the standard Craftsman/Atlas model. It screws on a 1.5" 8 threads per inch spindle. It does not have a back plate nor are the threads dirty.
Actually the chuck is not enough of a problem for me to go worrying over. When I do something that is going to be one piece that I can machine and part off I can use the 3 jaw if it seems more convenient. Other wise I just use the 4 jaw chuck and all is well every time.
Using rings or circles cut into the face of Chuck, lining up the same places on all jaws, this will get you very close this method can be used on square as well as rectangle shapes....they were put in during the making of Chuck for a reason... bell mouth jaws can be reground in chuck with use of ring clamped on i.d.,,or taken off and surface ground using form wnheel
great explanation. I inherited an old atlas craftsman, with a four jaw chuck. I can center and cut round stock, but notice the jaws are worn. "Bell-mouthed"?... I've heard it called... where they bite in the back, inside the chuck first...and I can see light under the jaws in the front. Any ramnifications of this? Should I try to correct this... or is it a real problem? How can I fix this if I need to?
This was a good method, very easy to get the hang of it, unfortunately I never got my piece truly indicated. I had been going mad and running in circles chasing my own tail on this and that's why I started to look at videos like this. But ehhhh, now I see that two of the chuck jaws tighten at the back first and the shaft I was using was moving a whole lot regardless of how much pressure I put on it. Sigh.
Hi, I have one doubt. Can you please explain in 4.46 minutes you told that lowest point you are setting zero. But that time dial gauge was showing 59. You turned the dial and made it 0. Plz explain me. I'm a student and trying to learn lathe machine
Great video. This must be the fastest centering of a 4 jaw I've seen, Okey, ABoom79 is fast but if he would jump up and sit on the lathe bed he could get lot faster, like You.
That chuck has a center hole Correct, why not make a Standard that fits in the hole and make the first adjustment off the standard. Set up a hard pin for fine adjustment. just saying
You lost me as soon as you clamped that magnetic base to the precision ground ways on your lathe. No professional would ever do that. And no one watching your video should ever do that.
Ummm...... Every professional I know does that and that's what it's made for. To attach to metal. Doesn't matter if it's precision or not, it's not being slid around so it's not going to hurt anything and there is no way a magnet that small can magnetize your bed.
I just bought a four jaw... Fought with it for 1-1/2 hours. I was ready to carefully remove it from the lathe and throw it thru a wall. Glad I watched your video. After learning your two key trick, it took me 3 minutes to get it dead on. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing your method of using a 4 Jaw Chuck. You made it look easy and gave a great presentation on what to do.
What a great informative video. I replayed your previous one several times but your method was a little difficult to follow...this one is crystal clear. Thanks for this really useful video. I have always been in awe of Adam's insanely fast 4 jaw alignment...now we can all get close
Love these videos. That four jaw is a bear to adjust, but this video is great. Thanks for sharing again...Ken
Kenneth Bartlett
Damn! You have just made my life much easier! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for an excellent video, this has explained very clearly the method used, you now have another subscriber and I am on my way to the garage now to make another chuck key, regards Doc Cox.
You just made my hobby a lot more fun. Thanks.
Yes sir! Thank you. Way better than the others I watched.
Thanks for the video, very help to a newbie lathe owner such as myself.
Great method. Not bad at all.... Have to design that second key for a mini lathe.
Ta, very informative, looking at a lathe the now, will go for the 4 jaw.
Thanks, i have been spending 15 min or more to set my chuck
An excellent very informative video, very clear instructions, regards Doc Cox.
Great one chap i just spent 25 mins playing , watched your vid and 5 mins
i am sure it will get better once i get / make a second chuck key
You are certainly right about the chuck. The four jaw is the only way to be sure youi are dead on. My 3 jaw chuck has nearly 15 thousandths of run out. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the suggestion. i measured the TIR when the lathe was new and it was 0.013" and I remeasure it recently and it is about .013. I don't think it will improve. I seldom use it unless I an going to finish whatever I do in on setting. Mostly I use the 4 jaw.
+cerberus If your chuck has a backplate you can loosen the mounting screws of the chuck to the plate while it's on your lathe and bump it around until you get the least run-out and lock it down. Also a big part is cleanliness of the mount itself. If you have a taper lock it is imperative that both surfaces are spotless. If it's a thread make sure there are no chips stuck in the threads or on the register.
+Halligan142 my 3 jaw chuck is the standard Craftsman/Atlas model. It screws on a 1.5" 8 threads per inch spindle. It does not have a back plate nor are the threads dirty.
+Thomas Headley no adjustments. What you get is what you got.
Actually the chuck is not enough of a problem for me to go worrying over. When I do something that is going to be one piece that I can machine and part off I can use the 3 jaw if it seems more convenient. Other wise I just use the 4 jaw chuck and all is well every time.
Simple and straightforward method👍👍
Great job explaining centering on the four jaw. Thank you :-)
Can you do the same demonstration with square stock, please?
Thank you.
Nicely explained. Great video.
Please what's the name of the instrument with the scale
See those inscribed circles in a face of a chuck. They are used as a quick reference marks. You don't need a ruler
Nice presentation Greg. :-)
Great video young man!
Using rings or circles cut into the face of Chuck, lining up the same places on all jaws, this will get you very close this method can be used on square as well as rectangle shapes....they were put in during the making of Chuck for a reason... bell mouth jaws can be reground in chuck with use of ring clamped on i.d.,,or taken off and surface ground using form wnheel
great explanation. I inherited an old atlas craftsman, with a four jaw chuck. I can center and cut round stock, but notice the jaws are worn. "Bell-mouthed"?... I've heard it called... where they bite in the back, inside the chuck first...and I can see light under the jaws in the front. Any ramnifications of this? Should I try to correct this... or is it a real problem? How can I fix this if I need to?
This was a good method, very easy to get the hang of it, unfortunately I never got my piece truly indicated. I had been going mad and running in circles chasing my own tail on this and that's why I started to look at videos like this. But ehhhh, now I see that two of the chuck jaws tighten at the back first and the shaft I was using was moving a whole lot regardless of how much pressure I put on it. Sigh.
Great technique
Hi, I have one doubt. Can you please explain in 4.46 minutes you told that lowest point you are setting zero. But that time dial gauge was showing 59. You turned the dial and made it 0. Plz explain me. I'm a student and trying to learn lathe machine
Awesome, you've got a new subscriber.
I don't bother scaling it in before hand... just doesn't seem necessary? I do use the 1/2 method for dialing it in though.
Very cool,willsave alot of time in my shop!
You chucked up the part with a bunch of chips laying on the bottom jaw.
Great video. This must be the fastest centering of a 4 jaw I've seen, Okey, ABoom79 is fast but if he would jump up and sit on the lathe bed he could get lot faster, like You.
Cool video so when are you going up against the grand Master Abom lol
is that a 6" chuck you got ?
Yes. I run 6” chucks on my 9” lathe and 10 on my 13
Now I wish I had a larger lathe.. and another chuck key..
❤ the job
Thanks for sharing...
Mast 4 jaw chuck seting
thanks for sharing,
great tip.
good tip, thanks
thankyou
Thanks a lot.
Going to give this a try! Thanks
Not bad, but I still prefer to do it the Abom79 way. It only takes like 4 seconds to get it to .0001
You should give it a try!
+ChipMaker 1066 What is the link to his video? thank you so much!!
happy halloween
That chuck has a center hole Correct, why not make a Standard that fits in the hole and make the first adjustment off the standard. Set up a hard pin for fine adjustment. just saying
awsome ty
You’re a having a laugh
What a pain will stick to 3 Jaw :-)
You lost me as soon as you clamped that magnetic base to the precision ground ways on your lathe. No professional would ever do that. And no one watching your video should ever do that.
Ummm...... Every professional I know does that and that's what it's made for. To attach to metal. Doesn't matter if it's precision or not, it's not being slid around so it's not going to hurt anything and there is no way a magnet that small can magnetize your bed.
I do that!