I arrived to the conclusion, after many reloads of 5.56 mm NATO, that the process people is using is wrong. I got 3 or 4 times the case stuck, and it was very painful to take it out. If you use just one die (LEE for example) to decap and to size both the body and the neck of the case at the same time, it is too much force necessary for all 3 steps at the same time. If the case you are trying to resize and decap is made of a hard material, with low ductility, that case needs a lot of force on the press to do it. As you apply force, the material does not resize because is not ductil, enough, then the press get loose when the bottom of the case got out of the small die supporting the case. Then the problem starts. I have changed my process to the following: Use one die to just decap and resize the neck of the case (die used normally for bolt action ammo), and a second die to only resize the body of the case (For this I took out the decap pin of the Lee die that decap and resize both neck and body.) In summary, I use 2 dies: one to decap and resize neck and the other for the resize the body. I have never had a case stuck again.
I have been doing something similar. I have a 4 hole Lee turret press. I have one die I deprime and minimally resize with. Die #2 I finish resizing to my desired dimensions. I have found some brass that is one or 2 thousands thicker at the neck and they need more leverage and lubrication to get to the dimensions I want. They also get separated out and used where precision is not as important or they get annealed and back through the sizing die.
You, sir, saved my day! I had one stuck and couldn’t get it out. I was rolling along, reforming without any lube, and then it happened. I should have known better, but I’ve learned my lesson... twice already, lol. Anyway, I tapped a 1/4"-20 and extracted it almost effortlessly. Thanks again!
I've had 2 stuck case scenarios . One from no case lube and other from bad casing. I used the neighbors 15 ton press to pop it out with NO damage to the die parts. Quick , easy and more affordable than a 30 or 40 dollar 'kit'
HELLO and thank for your video. Iam watching them from France ... quite far ! Would like to know if the device to move the shell after process out of the shell holder is RCBS or something you made. Never saw that in France. I have a RC2 and would love to have this on mine. Mikaël
Hello to you from France! Happy to assist! The product is made by InLine Fabrication. Tell Dan from @InLineFabrication that I sent you. Great products and service! He’ll take good care of all your needs. Here is the item you’re looking for: inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system/products/case-ejector-system-for-rcbs-rockchucker-single-stage If you run into any issue, let me know and I’ll reach out to Dan and help get what you need. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
I once stuck a 10mm case. The solution was the following: totally unscrew the die, take a pretty big nail driver (as near as possible as the diameter of the shell), unscrew the die head (in my case, the unpriming needle of a resizing die), so you have access to the top of the die. Insert the nail driver inside the stuck case, and gently tap with a rubber hammer on the nail driver, until the case comes lose. So you don't destroy your case. IDK if that can works for rifle, necked cases, but it worked for me...
Hi. Great video. I just ordered the remover tool, but I have a somewhat different problem. The depriming pin is stuck in the primer hole. Is the pin hard enough to withstand a punch pushing it back out or will it bend? Thanks.
Great question! Some will, some won’t withstand a punch. I like to screw the die in upside down in the press so I have a good grip. I think if you take your time it will work out just fine. 👍🏻 let me know if that helps!
All of these stuck case removal videos are great...except one minor thing. All of these show the first step as "Simply remove the expander ball and decapper, then..." I got a 9mm case stuck in an RCBS sizing die so bad it was as if the expander ball was welded to the inside of the case. The decapping pin was still sticking through the primer flash hole. Tried to use the threads of the pin to back it out using two nuts against each other. The pin snapped. Been reloading for more than 30 years and this was my very first stuck case. I always expected the first one to be a rifle case, but I apparently took the 9mm for granted and didn't lube it well.
woodystube1000 - there are some shell manufactures that have a smaller flash hole in the 9mm. I should have pointed this out and explained how to use a nail punch to help tap out the pin through the flash hole. RCBS makes a smaller diameter pin for depriming if needed. Sorry for not making that clear in this video. 👍🏻 thanks for the comment!
I ran into the "small flash hole" problem with some off brand 5.56 cases. (Sorry don't remember the brand) they had pinkish primers. Anyway, broke two decap pins in a row before finding the issue. Sorted the rest and dumped them in the scrap bucket.
@kypparmstrong2775 - If they have a red ring around the primer, throw them away. They have Berdan primers. Took me snapping a couple of pins to figure that out. Now I check all the cases while lubing them. 👍🏻
In sticking a 5.56 case, I did another "brute force" method. With the decapping rod out, I put the die with stuck case in the bench vise, resting on the die lock ring. Took a Torx driver small enough to fit down into the neck and contacting the base of the shell. Then HAMMERED the Torx driver to knock the case loose.
@qedsteve - how in the world did you get the decapping rod out? That must’ve required tremendous force? I’m guessing you used a socket or something to tighten the nut down to raise the rod. Well done! 👍🏻
I have the RCBS stuck case removing tool. Nickel plated brass will stick like it was super glued if you don't use enough lube. The drill bit provided by RCBS was good for a couple of cases before it became dull. Spend the money for a high speed steel bit or a cobalt drill bit.
@@k2defense K2 if I can build on this comment. I don't know what size of drill bit RCBS sent with the kit but it made for a very hard time starting the 1/4x20 tap along with the drill bit dulling very quickly. I believe it was probably a #7 black oxide bit. I replaced it with a 13/64 high speed steel drill bit that is .002 larger than a #7. It makes starting the tap easier and you lose no strength in the threaded portion of the case to be removed.
Just tried for the first time. Coax press, hornady match die for .223. Imperial sizing wax. First and fifth case stuck. I don't know what I am doing wrong. At least the drilling and tapping worked to get them out.
@dd1892 - try lubing the lower third of the case. Most of the expansion is close to the case head. My process (not saying it’s the best method) is lubing the lower third of the case then spraying a small amount of Lyman’s Quick Slick spray to the case mouth. I try to avoid shoulder lube since it causes dimpling. Try that and let us know how it works for you. 👍🏻
Screw the die into the press from the bottom side so the shell case is facing up. Heat the shell casing with a torch or soldering iron and melt a candle onto the case and die. The heat will draw the wax into the space between the die and the case and should be enough lube to allow it to be pulled out with pliers or vice grips.
@mouhunter - great information! Do you need to plug the bottom (or the top since it’s up side down) of the die to keep the wax from flowing through and spilling all over the place?
also get the rcbs stuck case remover 2 kit along with the original kit . kit 2 pulls the decapping expander out of the die , so no cutting the case or drilling in to the decapping pin . i got both but my remover kit is a hornady . same thing . gladly i haven't had to use them yet . but i am set if i do . did stick a couple just to try the kit out . took 16 cases with no lube to do it ! case was easy to get out . so i am ready for when i realy do stick a case . imperial sizing wax is the best !!!
@victorforte1605 - I find when I lube the shoulders, they dimple. Since I’ve started lubing the lower third only, I’ve never had a stuck case and zero dimpling of the shoulders. I do spray the case mouth with case spray if it starts to squeak or hard to resize. Others might disagree with my system, but for me it works. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
...when I began reloading 45 years ago in 1974, after I returned from the better part of three years with the Army in Germany., I had the complete RCBS "Ammo Crafter Kit with the old pad & 'tube o' lube'...the pad is long gone...but I still, somho0 managed to keep that stinkin' tube o' lube...I've graduated from my Rockchucker to a Dillon 550B and Lee 4000 and a few other presses but now use a lanolin spray lube...
never say never you MAY not ever have a stick case. Now the .223 small base die is a chancy thing and my stuck case tool got a workout. So did my vocabulary.
@@k2defense I've got a good selection of all types and use the FA lube on all of them. It's never let me down. Normally, I'll dump the cases in a cake pan, spray them down, shake them around, let sit for a bit till the alcohol evaporates, resize. For bottle neck cases I'll stand them up and squirt some across the tops. But only because the sound the expander makes grates on my ears.
@Lucysdad66 - There are two different reloaders, ones that have had a stuck case and those that will at some point. Glad you made it this long without a mishap. 😄👍
I use very little case lube. Hornady Unique. I do what Eric Cortina does. Just a little bit on the shoulders and the rest of the case. Very very little. So little that tub will probably last the rest of my life lol
Had this happen, couldn't fix it, case head separated in there. Probably saved my gun, but I mcfuckin had it with trying to fix it, and ordered a new die.
Yup, been there a time or two. Then I found this, came right out! 👍🏻 www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/bore-barrel-tools/reamers-cutters/cerrosafe~-chamber-casting-alloy/
Best solution imperial die wax. An alternative is Lanolin in Isopropyl alcohol which is similar to Dillon Case Lube Do not use Hornady One Shot Case Lube. Testosterone and Hornady One Shot are incompatible.
Stuck my very first .300 BO case in my brand new die after lubing with One Shot. I snapped the expander ball getting it out but eventually drove the case out. I've been using Hornady Unique since.
I arrived to the conclusion, after many reloads of 5.56 mm NATO, that the process people is using is wrong. I got 3 or 4 times the case stuck, and it was very painful to take it out. If you use just one die (LEE for example) to decap and to size both the body and the neck of the case at the same time, it is too much force necessary for all 3 steps at the same time. If the case you are trying to resize and decap is made of a hard material, with low ductility, that case needs a lot of force on the press to do it. As you apply force, the material does not resize because is not ductil, enough, then the press get loose when the bottom of the case got out of the small die supporting the case. Then the problem starts.
I have changed my process to the following: Use one die to just decap and resize the neck of the case (die used normally for bolt action ammo), and a second die to only resize the body of the case (For this I took out the decap pin of the Lee die that decap and resize both neck and body.) In summary, I use 2 dies: one to decap and resize neck and the other for the resize the body.
I have never had a case stuck again.
This is great information! I’ve pinned your comment! Thank you! 👍🏻
I have been doing something similar. I have a 4 hole Lee turret press. I have one die I deprime and minimally resize with. Die #2 I finish resizing to my desired dimensions. I have found some brass that is one or 2 thousands thicker at the neck and they need more leverage and lubrication to get to the dimensions I want. They also get separated out and used where precision is not as important or they get annealed and back through the sizing die.
This is the best and simplest explanation on the Web. Thank You.
@tedtoads9097 - appreciate your comment! 👍🏻
You, sir, saved my day! I had one stuck and couldn’t get it out. I was rolling along, reforming without any lube, and then it happened. I should have known better, but I’ve learned my lesson... twice already, lol. Anyway, I tapped a 1/4"-20 and extracted it almost effortlessly. Thanks again!
@vinago100 - glad it worked out for you! 👍🏻
Thanks for the tip. Saved my day.
@AlexTreit - glad it helped! Thanks for the comment!👍🏻
I made a rcbs case remover, the concept is easy. So was the process thanks for posting!
This is what I did too. 1/4X20 tap kit, comes with drill bit, large washer, proper size pipe nipple, 1/4X20 all thread and a couple nuts.
@Ziptie497 - there’s more than one way to Chicago! 👍🏻
@vicfeb3 - awesome! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
I've had 2 stuck case scenarios . One from no case lube and other from bad casing.
I used the neighbors 15 ton press to pop it out with NO damage to the die parts.
Quick , easy and more affordable than a 30 or 40 dollar 'kit'
I found a couple of old nuts, one or two washers and a screw to do the job perfecrtly aswell
@M_GYT - for sure this is the cheapest way of doing it with items you may already have in your garage! 👍🏻
Awesome video. Well done. Murica
HELLO and thank for your video. Iam watching them from France ... quite far !
Would like to know if the device to move the shell after process out of the shell holder is RCBS or something you made. Never saw that in France. I have a RC2 and would love to have this on mine.
Mikaël
Hello to you from France! Happy to assist! The product is made by InLine Fabrication. Tell Dan from @InLineFabrication that I sent you. Great products and service! He’ll take good care of all your needs. Here is the item you’re looking for: inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system/products/case-ejector-system-for-rcbs-rockchucker-single-stage
If you run into any issue, let me know and I’ll reach out to Dan and help get what you need.
Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Thanks @@k2defense
Thanks, very informative. Obrigado!
This has helped me out!
Love it Karl!!
I once stuck a 10mm case. The solution was the following: totally unscrew the die, take a pretty big nail driver (as near as possible as the diameter of the shell), unscrew the die head (in my case, the unpriming needle of a resizing die), so you have access to the top of the die. Insert the nail driver inside the stuck case, and gently tap with a rubber hammer on the nail driver, until the case comes lose. So you don't destroy your case. IDK if that can works for rifle, necked cases, but it worked for me...
@ptitlouis8084 - looks like I’m gonna have to purposely get a case stuck tonight and find out! 😂 Thanks for the tip! 👍🏻
Great video and great information
@wemcal - thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Hi. Great video. I just ordered the remover tool, but I have a somewhat different problem. The depriming pin is stuck in the primer hole. Is the pin hard enough to withstand a punch pushing it back out or will it bend? Thanks.
Great question! Some will, some won’t withstand a punch. I like to screw the die in upside down in the press so I have a good grip. I think if you take your time it will work out just fine. 👍🏻 let me know if that helps!
All of these stuck case removal videos are great...except one minor thing. All of these show the first step as "Simply remove the expander ball and decapper, then..." I got a 9mm case stuck in an RCBS sizing die so bad it was as if the expander ball was welded to the inside of the case. The decapping pin was still sticking through the primer flash hole. Tried to use the threads of the pin to back it out using two nuts against each other. The pin snapped. Been reloading for more than 30 years and this was my very first stuck case. I always expected the first one to be a rifle case, but I apparently took the 9mm for granted and didn't lube it well.
woodystube1000 - there are some shell manufactures that have a smaller flash hole in the 9mm. I should have pointed this out and explained how to use a nail punch to help tap out the pin through the flash hole. RCBS makes a smaller diameter pin for depriming if needed. Sorry for not making that clear in this video. 👍🏻 thanks for the comment!
I ran into the "small flash hole" problem with some off brand 5.56 cases. (Sorry don't remember the brand) they had pinkish primers. Anyway, broke two decap pins in a row before finding the issue. Sorted the rest and dumped them in the scrap bucket.
@kypparmstrong2775 - If they have a red ring around the primer, throw them away. They have Berdan primers. Took me snapping a couple of pins to figure that out. Now I check all the cases while lubing them. 👍🏻
In sticking a 5.56 case, I did another "brute force" method. With the decapping rod out, I put the die with stuck case in the bench vise, resting on the die lock ring. Took a Torx driver small enough to fit down into the neck and contacting the base of the shell. Then HAMMERED the Torx driver to knock the case loose.
@qedsteve - how in the world did you get the decapping rod out? That must’ve required tremendous force? I’m guessing you used a socket or something to tighten the nut down to raise the rod. Well done! 👍🏻
I have the RCBS stuck case removing tool. Nickel plated brass will stick like it was super glued if you don't use enough lube. The drill bit provided by RCBS was good for a couple of cases before it became dull. Spend the money for a high speed steel bit or a cobalt drill bit.
Great tip!
@@k2defense K2 if I can build on this comment. I don't know what size of drill bit RCBS sent with the kit but it made for a very hard time starting the 1/4x20 tap along with the drill bit dulling very quickly. I believe it was probably a #7 black oxide bit.
I replaced it with a 13/64 high speed steel drill bit that is .002 larger than a #7. It makes starting the tap easier and you lose no strength in the threaded portion of the case to be removed.
Great input! Thanks for sharing! 👍🏻
the drill bit was dull from brass?
That is the only thing I drilled with it was brass. It lasted about 4 cases. The last one I gave up and used one of my own.@@yeayeasautoadventures
it would be nice to see what the preferred method for removing crimps is.
Hi Kyle!
In this video I discuss crimp removal in military brass. th-cam.com/video/OEnTILU1Tjs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment!
RCBS swaging tool.
Thank you for that info
No problem 👍
Just tried for the first time. Coax press, hornady match die for .223. Imperial sizing wax. First and fifth case stuck. I don't know what I am doing wrong. At least the drilling and tapping worked to get them out.
@dd1892 - try lubing the lower third of the case. Most of the expansion is close to the case head. My process (not saying it’s the best method) is lubing the lower third of the case then spraying a small amount of Lyman’s Quick Slick spray to the case mouth. I try to avoid shoulder lube since it causes dimpling. Try that and let us know how it works for you. 👍🏻
Screw the die into the press from the bottom side so the shell case is facing up. Heat the shell casing with a torch or soldering iron and melt a candle onto the case and die. The heat will draw the wax into the space between the die and the case and should be enough lube to allow it to be pulled out with pliers or vice grips.
@mouhunter - great information! Do you need to plug the bottom (or the top since it’s up side down) of the die to keep the wax from flowing through and spilling all over the place?
also get the rcbs stuck case remover 2 kit along with the original kit . kit 2 pulls the decapping expander out of the die , so no cutting the case or drilling in to the decapping pin . i got both but my remover kit is a hornady . same thing . gladly i haven't had to use them yet . but i am set if i do . did stick a couple just to try the kit out . took 16 cases with no lube to do it ! case was easy to get out . so i am ready for when i realy do stick a case . imperial sizing wax is the best !!!
tn reloaderguy - thank you for this information! I wasn’t aware of the kit 2! Even better!
-K2D
The shoulder gets sized also why wouldn't you want it lubed also?
@victorforte1605 - I find when I lube the shoulders, they dimple. Since I’ve started lubing the lower third only, I’ve never had a stuck case and zero dimpling of the shoulders. I do spray the case mouth with case spray if it starts to squeak or hard to resize. Others might disagree with my system, but for me it works. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Nobody ever shows how to get the decapping pin and sizing ball out before they drill out the brass. Why is that????
@tires2burn - that’s a solid question. I’ll put that on my to do list. 👍🏻
...when I began reloading 45 years ago in 1974, after I returned from the better part of three years with the Army in Germany., I had the complete RCBS "Ammo Crafter Kit with the old pad & 'tube o' lube'...the pad is long gone...but I still, somho0 managed to keep that stinkin' tube o' lube...I've graduated from my Rockchucker to a Dillon 550B and Lee 4000 and a few other presses but now use a lanolin spray lube...
Awesome story! Thanks for sharing! Thank you for your service! 🫡🇺🇸
Lube the tap, it lesses the chance of snapping the die.
Turn the tap in in steps, 2 in, one back, 2 in, one back.
The lube can be case lube or oil, (I've used shortening on brass often.)
Hello Burton Urnie! Great advice! Thanks for the comment!
-K2D
Ihaventgot started yet, and that seem like a pain.never thought that could happen..
never say never you MAY not ever have a stick case. Now the .223 small base die is a chancy thing and my stuck case tool got a workout. So did my vocabulary.
😂👍🏻
Frankford arsenal spray lube. Spray the cases, let sit a couple minutes, resize cases. Never had a problem.
@vicfeb3 - which type of die do use? Neck, FL, or SB?
@@k2defense I've got a good selection of all types and use the FA lube on all of them. It's never let me down. Normally, I'll dump the cases in a cake pan, spray them down, shake them around, let sit for a bit till the alcohol evaporates, resize. For bottle neck cases I'll stand them up and squirt some across the tops. But only because the sound the expander makes grates on my ears.
@vicfeb3 - I’m half deaf so that sound doesn’t bother me as much 😂👍🏻
@@k2defense lol
Been loading over thirty years never had a case stuck
@Lucysdad66 - There are two different reloaders, ones that have had a stuck case and those that will at some point. Glad you made it this long without a mishap. 😄👍
I guess it's like concrete you have cracked concrete and concrete that's going to crack.
@Lucysdad66 makes sense. Thanks for the explanation! 👍🏻
I use very little case lube. Hornady Unique. I do what Eric Cortina does. Just a little bit on the shoulders and the rest of the case. Very very little. So little that tub will probably last the rest of my life lol
If it works for you, that’s all that matters! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Sounds like a screw extractor would do it or a tap screw and a couple pieces of metal next to washer............. but im a millwright so 🤷
@robertulmer5886 - There's more than one way to get to Chicago! 👍😁
A screw extractor would not work because it relies on the thing being removed having a thread.
Had this happen, couldn't fix it, case head separated in there.
Probably saved my gun, but I mcfuckin had it with trying to fix it, and ordered a new die.
Yup, been there a time or two. Then I found this, came right out! 👍🏻
www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/bore-barrel-tools/reamers-cutters/cerrosafe~-chamber-casting-alloy/
Best solution imperial die wax. An alternative is Lanolin in Isopropyl alcohol which is similar to Dillon Case Lube
Do not use Hornady One Shot Case Lube. Testosterone and Hornady One Shot are incompatible.
Hello John E! Going to try your suggestion! Thanks for the comment!
Stuck my very first .300 BO case in my brand new die after lubing with One Shot. I snapped the expander ball getting it out but eventually drove the case out. I've been using Hornady Unique since.
Wow il just get the stick case die 💩
Out the draw why did I nit think of that 🙄
@shootit6144 - 🤷🏻♂️😂👍🏻
Love it Karl!!