Good simple introduction to stone conditioning! The Arctic Fox was designed specifically to compliment a file, and will quickly remove file marks on the coarse side and bring it to a finely finished edge on the fine. It was partly designed as a response to the Lansky trying to take on too much of the job of a file. When using the Arctic Fox, if you have any heavy damage to address, use a file for the heavy lifting and shaping work. It's the fastest and most efficient way to perform such work. If the bit is too hard for a file, something like a Manticore abrasive file will work faster than the Lansky. :)
Had one and have used it for years. Keep it wet and clean. I made a carry pouch out of an old sock and para cord. Easy to carry in pocket for field work. Nice video.
Very useful tutorial, Chris. Thanks for putting this out here for all to use as a learning tool. I’m looking forward to the Lansky Puck use video. Thanks!
Thanks for the tip on the lansky puck bought one and I thought it work that well, now I know you have to tune it. one question though. If you use the sand paper method, I know you mentioned 80 grit, should you use a coarser grit then the side of the stone your doing figure 8s on so particles can't get re-embedded like maybe a 36 or 40?
When I first started sharpening stuff, I was a young teenager doing basically slave labor in the fields of Iowa in 100 degree weather and 95%+ humidity with mile-long rows of corn and beans and no water until I made the circuit of the row twice and got back to the truck where I started. Add to that Pearson's Salted Nut Rolls and you're pretty thirsty. Anyway, my early sharpening experience was on hoes that had blades that were about a foot across at the end of about an 8 or 9 foot handle. We used a big old file on those hoes to get them near razor sharp, and we got good enough to reach out across four or so rows in either direction to let the hoe drop and chop down about 8 stalks of volunteer corn at once that had come up in a cluster in a row of soybean plants. There were millions of these clusters (it seemed) in a typical field of soybeans because at that time they rotated planting corn in the field one year and then soybeans the next, because the beans put nitrogen nutrients into the dirt that the corn needed to grow (or vice versa....hey, like I said I was a young teenager). Anyway, we got damn good at sharpening with files, and when it comes to my axes, hatchets and other similar blades, I still use a big old coarse file a great deal of the time. I also use a puck and even a fine wheel on a bench grinder if I have a lot of metal to remove. Polishing an axe? Ain't got time for that, Bro. There's work to be done. ;-)
Lansky should pay you for this; Not because you were shilling their product, but because your practical tutorial was so well grounded and thorough. Good stuff Chris. 👍
Came here from coalcracker, great video, i have a pile of old stones of various sorts that my dad got from his dad and that norton flattening stone is definitely what i need and never knew about, plus i noticed my lansky wasn't cutting as well as when i first got it so this vid was great!
To my earlier comment: Also had gun oil freeze on a gun of mine. That's why I now use Lucas extreme duty gun oil on my firearms, in the winter atleast. I try to use that all the time but in warmer weather, I'll use hoppes gun oil. But on my morakniv (carbon steel), I use olive oil in case I want to prepare foods. And use it on my hatchet and axe in case I need to process big game like a deer, it's still good grade so it won't tant it. So that's all I carry for my blades weapons so I dont have to carry a bunch of different oils. But yes use oil in winter, it takes colder weather to freeze oil than water.
All good, only problem I've had with vegetable oil is it tends to go rancid after a while, especially if in storage or on leather and the like, not to mention attracting critters and such. I've moved to an inert mineral oil which is food grade and was available at my local pharmacy. I use it for most things now like all my wooden kitchen knife handles and cutting boards to keep them from drying out and carbon steel knives and tools. I'ts been one of my best friends for years now.
Oil can freeze also. Had that happen to a puck. Still use a puck for hatchets, axes, etc.. But then I also have a whetstone 1000/6000 grit that's for my knives.
Also had gun oil freeze on a gun of mine. That's why I now use Lucas extreme duty gun oil on my firearms, in the winter atleast. I try to use that all the time but in warmer weather, I'll use hoppes gun oil. But on my morakniv (carbon steel), I use olive oil in case I want to prepare foods. And use it on my hatchet and axe in case I need to process big game like a deer, it's still good grade so it won't tant it. So that's all I carry for my blades weapons so I dont have to carry a bunch of different oils. But yes use oil in winter, it takes colder weather to freeze oil than water.
In lieu of a glass, I had a piece of granite that I used with sandpaper. Worked 4 me. I don't use water stones. However, I do have WSKO Edition sharper, SharpMaker, and the DMT Die-Sharp Combo stones. All different learning curves & work.
I've always believed they used a wax on the final product to make it shine, inferring that's the edge you'll get using their product or maybe to give a little protection, like the paint on a ferroceum rod.
Nice vid. Thank you for sharing this. Learned alot. But im also waiting on the 'how to use the puck for sharpening' vid. Are you still going to post it?
I've had great results with my Grandfors Bruks puck and implements ( tools)! I noticed Buckins little book hanging on his wall you get when you make a purchase of one of there tools! Are you familiar with these axe's? I've had the 8 lb maul for 12 years and just replaced the handle last year, quality of these tools are amazing, I use it in my last video 🧡
I've been catching up on your channel, I will look for them, I use them on and hewn projects. I have a knife shop in town that I do trade work with, build there display pieces for tools. Owner surprised me with a froe this winter. Not Shure I spelled it correctly lol. I have a couple draw knives that I use the most. I sent Nathan a pic of all of them in my truck bed, but he didn't seem interested 😂 lol.
Thanks for the education. Is it ok to put an "oil" stone on the "water" soaked flattener, or should I get a separate "oil" flattener to flatten my "oil" stone?
@@KillingerUSA If I initial used Lansky sharpening oil on the stone, can I resurface it for water use instead or should I just keep it as an oil stone and get another one for water?
@@WilliamAyers214 I would just get another. You could soak it in kerosene, let it completely dry and then possible go back to water but its bet6yo just run both
Chris, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have some old sharpening stones that are completely oil soaked and need some good flattening. Is it possible and worth the time to try to turn them into water sharpening stones or ditch them. Also I do some leatherworking and would really appreciate if you could make a video on how you made those great leather pouches!
I would clean them up and flatten them. Make them dedicated oil stones for winter use. Oil won't freeze. Then buy a new one and dedicate it to water. They are cheap enough. I'll have to look for the pattern, it's been years!
That's probably been used with oil and the dirt is dust and metal build up. I have soaked stones in kerosene and them let them dry completely. That will clean it out.
Great video. I think I will order a Norton flattening stone after the 1st of the year. I think if more people watched this video and followed your advise, they would have a different opinion of the Lansky Puck. I've used one for a number of yrs and noticed that it needed a "break in period". Since watching your instructions, this should shorten the break in. Thank you.
@@KillingerUSA Agreed. I have to try it out now. Just discovered that my Lansky Puck is MIA, so will have to get another one. Perfect time to try the Norton out, too.
You should do this will all of your stones. However, buy a 24" piece of flooring tile from HD or Lowes' and you can do the same thing by using the underside of the tile..
thanks for the knowledge transfer...here via ironhorse and buckin. picked up 3 more vintage axes by a roadside sale...one's a Kelly True Temper and another's got a 👑 on it, has "Made in England" but i can't find any info on it. 3rds heavily pitted and no marks. they are addictive!!!
@@KillingerUSA. what? Has it got hole you look into as well, i'm dumbfounded. The things you can do with inanimate objects these days, simply amazes my geriatric mind, modern technology.
Awesome, thanks JKill. This is REAL content that folks can actually use or need to know. Not the same content that every goon with a camera is showing the same thing they just watched 10 other people do. Im the kind of guy that likes to know and understand what im doing or why not just repeat what everyone else is doing or saying because they did. Great content 👍👌👍 Jacob
Jacob Wilbert thank you! I hate making "teaching" videos but sometimes the information need to be put out! I appreciate your view and support!! Moee to come!
Hey welcome! Sadly, lost footage and just haven't had time to shoot it again. I'll put it on my property list! Next axe I sharpen, I'll film and I'll use the puck!
This was more about the lansky puck itself and not about how to sharpen an axe. Also, the lansky is a 2 sided stone. 1 for profiling and 1 for finishing. It does an adequate job for both and a useable axe. Sure, there are better options but this one cost 8 bucks and will get the job done.
I like your pouches in the begining of the video I'm not a fan of a puck I have dexterity issues with my left hand its hard to hold things I was always afraid I would cut the tips of my finger I mainly tried using a puck sharpening knives not axes I just used a file for axes
Have you used a DMT sharpening stone on your puck? I use a coarse one on my whetstones. Think I saw one between your glass/sandpaper rig and Norton stone. If so, what grit is it? Great video, btw!:)-John in Texas
I'm just trying to sharpen an axe I found in my dad's shed for the first time. It seems you need to buy a stone, and sharpen that, then sharpen the sharpening stone. it must never have been this complicated, there wouldn't have ever been an economy with the pissing about.
The stone will work out of the package. This is simply a video on how to maintain the stone and possibly improve it. So dont bother "pissing" around with it by watching TH-cam videos. Get on with it and swing the axe. Thanks for watching.
be careful with the nortan flatting stone, after awhile they will not stay true. I like the diamond way better seems to stay flat forever, just the diamonds dont stay on the steal forever. just saying. anyway great video bro.
I use lansky's al the time for the money I do not think they can be beat just heading over to e bay to get a Norton flattening stone if you can find one a Norton puck is a great puck also I think I paid 12.95 for one there are a finer grit then Lansky
Appreciate the feedback. Unfortunately I'm just a dude with a video camera and 0 training in filming and editing. Lucky for you, this was a free video with a ton of great information in it!!!! I encourage you to stick around and look at some of my other redundant content. It's all free as well! Seriously, no charge! Your welcome!
I dont want to be a know it all wanker, but my understanding, is that the finer edge you have (for example polished) the longer it takes to dull. Biggest instance of this in effect is razor blades for shaving, very sharp edge, but mass produced, and has imperfections, which is why they go blunt relatively quickly. That being said, not every edge needs a mirror finish, but finding the correct finish for your working edge is part art part preference. Most axes dont need a mirror finish, but undoubtedly, a mirror finish on a rougher finished equal bevel will not blunten as fast. Time vs effectiveness vs upkeep/maintenance.
I think edge geometry, and intended use dictate how long the edge is going to last. Not how well you polished it. For example, how much wood are you going to be able to chop with a razor blade?
@@KillingerUSA right, but my point is not about bevel, both bevels equal, polished edge will last longer, as micro serrations will be points of weakness most likely to dull. So a perfect (in this case polished or equal) edge, will hold up for longer over the same use. That was the point.
@@KillingerUSA do you need a polished edge for timber splitting. No. Upkeep would outweigh benefit as the useage is so rough anyway. The original comment was to highlight finding the right finishing grit (bevel equally important) for useage and upkeep.
I hate to say this, but if viewers don't know that a whetstone needs to be wet, they aren't going to sit through 9 minutes of explanation on different ways to make it flat. Do you have children, and do they drift away when you tell them a story??
Good simple introduction to stone conditioning!
The Arctic Fox was designed specifically to compliment a file, and will quickly remove file marks on the coarse side and bring it to a finely finished edge on the fine. It was partly designed as a response to the Lansky trying to take on too much of the job of a file. When using the Arctic Fox, if you have any heavy damage to address, use a file for the heavy lifting and shaping work. It's the fastest and most efficient way to perform such work. If the bit is too hard for a file, something like a Manticore abrasive file will work faster than the Lansky. :)
Does the Arctic Fox puck require regular conditioning?
Had one and have used it for years. Keep it wet and clean. I made a carry pouch out of an old sock and para cord. Easy to carry in pocket for field work. Nice video.
They are pretty good! Thank you!
Very useful tutorial, Chris. Thanks for putting this out here for all to use as a learning tool.
I’m looking forward to the Lansky Puck use video. Thanks!
Dale Swier thanks Dale!!
Thanks for the tip on the lansky puck bought one and I thought it work that well, now I know you have to tune it. one question though. If you use the sand paper method, I know you mentioned 80 grit, should you use a coarser grit then the side of the stone your doing figure 8s on so particles can't get re-embedded like maybe a 36 or 40?
When I first started sharpening stuff, I was a young teenager doing basically slave labor in the fields of Iowa in 100 degree weather and 95%+ humidity with mile-long rows of corn and beans and no water until I made the circuit of the row twice and got back to the truck where I started. Add to that Pearson's Salted Nut Rolls and you're pretty thirsty. Anyway, my early sharpening experience was on hoes that had blades that were about a foot across at the end of about an 8 or 9 foot handle. We used a big old file on those hoes to get them near razor sharp, and we got good enough to reach out across four or so rows in either direction to let the hoe drop and chop down about 8 stalks of volunteer corn at once that had come up in a cluster in a row of soybean plants. There were millions of these clusters (it seemed) in a typical field of soybeans because at that time they rotated planting corn in the field one year and then soybeans the next, because the beans put nitrogen nutrients into the dirt that the corn needed to grow (or vice versa....hey, like I said I was a young teenager). Anyway, we got damn good at sharpening with files, and when it comes to my axes, hatchets and other similar blades, I still use a big old coarse file a great deal of the time. I also use a puck and even a fine wheel on a bench grinder if I have a lot of metal to remove. Polishing an axe? Ain't got time for that, Bro. There's work to be done. ;-)
Great advise to know for sure .. I bought a Lansky puck awhile back but haven't used it yet. But I'm glad I watched this video before I used it .
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it
Lansky should pay you for this; Not because you were shilling their product, but because your practical tutorial was so well grounded and thorough. Good stuff Chris. 👍
Thanks buddy!!
Came here from coalcracker, great video, i have a pile of old stones of various sorts that my dad got from his dad and that norton flattening stone is definitely what i need and never knew about, plus i noticed my lansky wasn't cutting as well as when i first got it so this vid was great!
Glad you stopped by!!!
I just got one. Tested on a knives first. Worked well. I picked up honing oil to use. Very absorbant. Soaks up the oil pretty good.
Glad I followed your comment on Coalcrackers video to this informative vid of yours! Thanks
AG Survival thanks for coming!!!
To my earlier comment: Also had gun oil freeze on a gun of mine. That's why I now use Lucas extreme duty gun oil on my firearms, in the winter atleast. I try to use that all the time but in warmer weather, I'll use hoppes gun oil. But on my morakniv (carbon steel), I use olive oil in case I want to prepare foods. And use it on my hatchet and axe in case I need to process big game like a deer, it's still good grade so it won't tant it. So that's all I carry for my blades weapons so I dont have to carry a bunch of different oils. But yes use oil in winter, it takes colder weather to freeze oil than water.
All good, only problem I've had with vegetable oil is it tends to go rancid after a while, especially if in storage or on leather and the like, not to mention attracting critters and such. I've moved to an inert mineral oil which is food grade and was available at my local pharmacy. I use it for most things now like all my wooden kitchen knife handles and cutting boards to keep them from drying out and carbon steel knives and tools. I'ts been one of my best friends for years now.
Oil can freeze also. Had that happen to a puck. Still use a puck for hatchets, axes, etc.. But then I also have a whetstone 1000/6000 grit that's for my knives.
Also had gun oil freeze on a gun of mine. That's why I now use Lucas extreme duty gun oil on my firearms, in the winter atleast. I try to use that all the time but in warmer weather, I'll use hoppes gun oil. But on my morakniv (carbon steel), I use olive oil in case I want to prepare foods. And use it on my hatchet and axe in case I need to process big game like a deer, it's still good grade so it won't tant it. So that's all I carry for my blades weapons so I dont have to carry a bunch of different oils. But yes use oil in winter, it takes colder weather to freeze oil than water.
In lieu of a glass, I had a piece of granite that I used with sandpaper. Worked 4 me. I don't use water stones. However, I do have WSKO Edition sharper, SharpMaker, and the DMT Die-Sharp Combo stones. All different learning curves & work.
Grannet is a great choice!
I've always believed they used a wax on the final product to make it shine, inferring that's the edge you'll get using their product or maybe to give a little protection, like the paint on a ferroceum rod.
Hmmmm. That's possible
Nice vid. Thank you for sharing this. Learned alot. But im also waiting on the 'how to use the puck for sharpening' vid. Are you still going to post it?
I recorded it. Haven't edit yet. I'll see if I can get that done.
Great video! I never thought about doing that to a new Lansky puck, I always thought it cut kind of slow. Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend!
Jeff Grier right on Jeff! Let me know what you think!!
This guy deserves more subscribers
Thank you! I appreciate that!
I've had great results with my Grandfors Bruks puck and implements ( tools)!
I noticed Buckins little book hanging on his wall you get when you make a purchase of one of there tools!
Are you familiar with these axe's?
I've had the 8 lb maul for 12 years and just replaced the handle last year, quality of these tools are amazing, I use it in my last video 🧡
I have several videos on my channel of Gransfors Axes.
I've been catching up on your channel, I will look for them, I use them on and hewn projects.
I have a knife shop in town that I do trade work with, build there display pieces for tools.
Owner surprised me with a froe this winter.
Not Shure I spelled it correctly lol.
I have a couple draw knives that I use the most.
I sent Nathan a pic of all of them in my truck bed, but he didn't seem interested 😂 lol.
You have some awesome content buddy!
Do you have a mill also?
@@thekiltedsawyer I do
Lx25
Thanks for the education. Is it ok to put an "oil" stone on the "water" soaked flattener, or should I get a separate "oil" flattener to flatten my "oil" stone?
I would have both. Thanks for watching
@@KillingerUSA Thank you Sir.
@@KillingerUSA If I initial used Lansky sharpening oil on the stone, can I resurface it for water use instead or should I just keep it as an oil stone and get another one for water?
@@WilliamAyers214 I would just get another. You could soak it in kerosene, let it completely dry and then possible go back to water but its bet6yo just run both
Chris, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have some old sharpening stones that are completely oil soaked and need some good flattening. Is it possible and worth the time to try to turn them into water sharpening stones or ditch them. Also I do some leatherworking and would really appreciate if you could make a video on how you made those great leather pouches!
I would clean them up and flatten them. Make them dedicated oil stones for winter use. Oil won't freeze. Then buy a new one and dedicate it to water. They are cheap enough. I'll have to look for the pattern, it's been years!
Thanks Chris!! Really appreciate it!@@KillingerUSA
Do you know how to clean the puck?. Mine has some dirt stuck on it that seems is not coming out.
That's probably been used with oil and the dirt is dust and metal build up. I have soaked stones in kerosene and them let them dry completely. That will clean it out.
Great video. I think I will order a Norton flattening stone after the 1st of the year. I think if more people watched this video and followed your advise, they would have a different opinion of the Lansky Puck. I've used one for a number of yrs and noticed that it needed a "break in period". Since watching your instructions, this should shorten the break in. Thank you.
I agree. Folks just dont give it a fair shake! Haha! Really all the stones available work great. These tips will help all the stones.
@@KillingerUSA BTW, I just checked Amazon & they have them for about $36.
@@MrBluesluver worth every penny if you ask me.
@@KillingerUSA Agreed. I have to try it out now. Just discovered that my Lansky Puck is MIA, so will have to get another one. Perfect time to try the Norton out, too.
You should do this will all of your stones. However, buy a 24" piece of flooring tile from HD or Lowes' and you can do the same thing by using the underside of the tile..
Yes
Many Thanks, Chris Now I Know what I didn't ! Looking 4-ward to your next post, Friend !
Terry W. Milburn Thanks for watching! Got first half of the next video shot today!
thanks for the knowledge transfer...here via ironhorse and buckin. picked up 3 more vintage axes by a roadside sale...one's a Kelly True Temper and another's got a 👑 on it, has "Made in England" but i can't find any info on it. 3rds heavily pitted and no marks. they are addictive!!!
Thanks for being here! I appreciate it! Axes are a rabbit hole!
Ever consider doing a how to sharpen a knife {pocket knife}
maybe ill give it a go?
I love my lansky
Great tutorial
You got a sub here brother!
Appreciate it!
Just found this video and i am definitely going to try it thanks again for the great tips
No problem!
First time ive ever heard of stone tuning. Can you tell me what jetting i need for a gravel bed?
I'll look into it
@@KillingerUSA. what? Has it got hole you look into as well, i'm dumbfounded. The things you can do with inanimate objects these days, simply amazes my geriatric mind, modern technology.
Awesome video, thank you. Do you store the puck in water or just soak it before use?
No. Store it dry.
Awesome, thanks JKill. This is REAL content that folks can actually use or need to know. Not the same content that every goon with a camera is showing the same thing they just watched 10 other people do. Im the kind of guy that likes to know and understand what im doing or why not just repeat what everyone else is doing or saying because they did.
Great content 👍👌👍
Jacob
Jacob Wilbert thank you! I hate making "teaching" videos but sometimes the information need to be put out! I appreciate your view and support!! Moee to come!
Nice refresher on pucks. Thsnks.
I'd likr to throw my name in the hat gor the constestl to win thr suspenders and coffee. Thanks!
The giveaway has ended.
@@KillingerUSA You must have gotten the cns up this morning. LOL
Thanks for the information.
Just came over from buckinbillyray channel.is there a part 2 to this.
Hey welcome! Sadly, lost footage and just haven't had time to shoot it again. I'll put it on my property list! Next axe I sharpen, I'll film and I'll use the puck!
@@KillingerUSA I just getting in axes want make sure I am doing correctly, can sharpen knifes like no other but these completely different animals
@@jermball12345 these are a lot easier. I literally learned how to sharpen a knife from sharpening axes.
Interesting info. Thanks for putting it together.
The Prepared Wanderer thanks for watching! Shooting the sharpening video now. Should be up in a day or 2.
Very good video Chris. . You sold me on the flating stone.. wow..
CRAFTY BY NATURE right on man! You'll love it for all your stones!
Great videos
Thanks
Great Video! How long do you soak the puck before tuning it?
Just until it stops bubbling
Profile and finishing stones, you’ve described everything but that sharpened axes requires both of these type of stones
This was more about the lansky puck itself and not about how to sharpen an axe. Also, the lansky is a 2 sided stone. 1 for profiling and 1 for finishing. It does an adequate job for both and a useable axe. Sure, there are better options but this one cost 8 bucks and will get the job done.
I like your pouches in the begining of the video I'm not a fan of a puck I have dexterity issues with my left hand its hard to hold things I was always afraid I would cut the tips of my finger I mainly tried using a puck sharpening knives not axes I just used a file for axes
Thanks, I made those.
That is very helpful!!!
I’ve had the Lansky for a couple of years. It was junk. I bought the wisemen puck and the difference was massive.
Interesting. Glad you found a tool that works for you.
Did you do the later sharpening video?
I did, but it never got uploaded. I need to make another because I lost that footage.
Would be very helpful. Used a puck straight out of the pkg today on a Fiskars hatchet with poor results. Will try the tuning and give it another shot.
I’m bummed out ! Got my puck all tuned up and now I wanted to see your techniques !
@@shawnlamarche7540 well, you have the most important part done. I really should shoot another video showing how to use it. It's on my list!
Have you used a DMT sharpening stone on your puck? I use a coarse one on my whetstones. Think I saw one between your glass/sandpaper rig and Norton stone. If so, what grit is it? Great video, btw!:)-John in Texas
I have. I use the corse one. If I didn't have a flattening stone I'd go to the dmt.
I'm just trying to sharpen an axe I found in my dad's shed for the first time. It seems you need to buy a stone, and sharpen that, then sharpen the sharpening stone. it must never have been this complicated, there wouldn't have ever been an economy with the pissing about.
The stone will work out of the package. This is simply a video on how to maintain the stone and possibly improve it. So dont bother "pissing" around with it by watching TH-cam videos. Get on with it and swing the axe. Thanks for watching.
Great vid, thanks.
Thank you!
New subscriber 👊🏽
Appreciate it!
Great video buddy!!!!!
joesneon thanks buddy!!
Great information. Good evening.
Nice WEN box in the background.
That's a sweet air cleaner!
I've only ever used a maul, and I've used a grinder to sharpen, then hand file,. After watching your videos I see that's a mistake!!! 👊👍
Thankas for the vid mate!
Great vid buddy
The Weekend Homestead thank you!!!!!
SO, where is the how to use video you promised? :)
Lost lol
be careful with the nortan flatting stone, after awhile they will not stay true. I like the diamond way better seems to stay flat forever, just the diamonds dont stay on the steal forever. just saying. anyway great video bro.
Thanks! I aggre, just giving folks some less expensive options.
I use lansky's al the time for the money I do not think they can be beat just heading over to e bay to get a Norton flattening stone if you can find one a Norton puck is a great puck also I think I paid 12.95 for one there are a finer grit then Lansky
Been meaning to grab one of those!!
FIRST!!!! What up bro!!!
No ppe? Pfffft
Hi why don't you use a wire wheel
It would be too aggressive and you wouldn't be able to maintain a flat surface.
Some good instruction, but man...the redundancy bout killed me...just get to the point!... Don't Puck around!😜
Appreciate the feedback. Unfortunately I'm just a dude with a video camera and 0 training in filming and editing. Lucky for you, this was a free video with a ton of great information in it!!!! I encourage you to stick around and look at some of my other redundant content. It's all free as well! Seriously, no charge! Your welcome!
Norton stone is $25 on amazon
I dont want to be a know it all wanker, but my understanding, is that the finer edge you have (for example polished) the longer it takes to dull.
Biggest instance of this in effect is razor blades for shaving, very sharp edge, but mass produced, and has imperfections, which is why they go blunt relatively quickly.
That being said, not every edge needs a mirror finish, but finding the correct finish for your working edge is part art part preference. Most axes dont need a mirror finish, but undoubtedly, a mirror finish on a rougher finished equal bevel will not blunten as fast.
Time vs effectiveness vs upkeep/maintenance.
I think edge geometry, and intended use dictate how long the edge is going to last. Not how well you polished it.
For example, how much wood are you going to be able to chop with a razor blade?
@@KillingerUSA right, but my point is not about bevel, both bevels equal, polished edge will last longer, as micro serrations will be points of weakness most likely to dull. So a perfect (in this case polished or equal) edge, will hold up for longer over the same use. That was the point.
@@KillingerUSA do you need a polished edge for timber splitting. No. Upkeep would outweigh benefit as the useage is so rough anyway. The original comment was to highlight finding the right finishing grit (bevel equally important) for useage and upkeep.
Take 12 and ACTION! 00:06
Yankee haha!! How ya doing bud!?
Waiting for those leaves to start turnin' so I can't start clearing some woods with my axes man. :)
If the puck is white corundum, then it will sell.
I hate to say this, but if viewers don't know that a whetstone needs to be wet, they aren't going to sit through 9 minutes of explanation on different ways to make it flat. Do you have children, and do they drift away when you tell them a story??
I think you missed the point.
To much equipment for my survival pack.
Interesting
SMH