Not exactly sure about definitions, soft tailoring seems to cover a spectrum from unpadded to natural shoulders with sleeve roping playing a factor too. While I understand why some people consider an unpadded jacket just a glorified cardigan, a steeper shoulder angle does look nice on some guys but not unlike pleats, it seems to depend on body type a lot.
Oh, I agree with you both in terms of how structured tailoring has its place and how "soft tailoring" is a broad term.. A padded shoulder on an English suit is excellent for business or formal event and "soft" in the conventional sense can be the "natural shoulder" or something without a lining. Derek Guy has a good article on it at putthison.com/how-to-tell-if-soft-tailoring-is-right-for-you/
@@gentlemenscholarsclub thanks a lot, excellent article. Got tempted by Ring Jacket again, can't quite put my finger to it but there's something to their jackets that just looks right. Still conflicted on "soft soft tailoring", though, jackets in the article and also what we've been seeing from Cucinelli or Isaia in recent years, divots and all, I understand it's supposed to look a bit messy and crumpled and that it reduces the formality just like I understand some people feel better in unlined and very lightly, if at all, canvassed jackets, but I like the suit armour feel. It's a spectrum, though, and I find your take very interesting as I've been exploring in a similar direction, it's very easy to be way overdressed these days so soft, plush materials, flannels, suede, earthy colors, taupe rather than grey etc. are one way to go, also what you were talking about on no tie BD shirt looks in another video. I guess we'll have to invest in some more tailoring and experiment with different canvassing, padding, roping etc. options to find the right look and feel. May I have an unrelated question, please, as you obviously have considerable expertise, which shirtmaker would you recommend for a fat, beefy collar that stays up, BD or regular, or perhaps what collar height works best, what cotton type? Most poplins, twills and oxfords don't have this quality and an unbuttoned collar looks somehow dull and lifeless either right away or after wearing the shirt for a couple of hours. I know a one-piece collar is one way to go but I'd like the collar even fatter and possibly with a higher top button.
I hear you on the "suit of armor"; structure is likely the way to go in the board room or business to achieve that. Divoting of the shoulder is probably more a problem with soft shoulders as you say, but I've found I eliminated it when I went with a larger size (I was wearing super tight size 36 US/46 EU a few years ago when I am definitely a 38/48 at least). Ring Jacket and The Armoury's version of it remain my favorite fit. I really should wait and buy only their items but I like to have a diverse range of jackets, so I end up getting less expensive brands. Today I am thinking--wait and get one a year from RJ or something like that. Regarding a shirt collar that is large and tall, if you have a longer neck, go for it. It is appealing just like a cravat was appealing when Beau Brummel and the 19th century dudes around him innovated men's style. A lot of what we do these day is based on recapturing those looks, which were the height of menswear IMO. On the higher end side, I would talk to 100 Hands about your needs. If you want something "reasonable" then Proper Cloth has a lot of collar styles. They have a tall Italian one that you can get in a firm option that might do it. It might be the Roma: propercloth.com/collar-styles
Great video I also like the concept of soft soft tailoring winter attire thanks for sharing this video!
For summer soft soft tailoring a knitted T-shirt or a polo will definitely work. Also linen with wool for trousers and tops
Agreed, knits will work well for a soft look. I suppose no warm weather fabric can truly match the plush aspect of winter cloth.
Not exactly sure about definitions, soft tailoring seems to cover a spectrum from unpadded to natural shoulders with sleeve roping playing a factor too. While I understand why some people consider an unpadded jacket just a glorified cardigan, a steeper shoulder angle does look nice on some guys but not unlike pleats, it seems to depend on body type a lot.
Oh, I agree with you both in terms of how structured tailoring has its place and how "soft tailoring" is a broad term.. A padded shoulder on an English suit is excellent for business or formal event and "soft" in the conventional sense can be the "natural shoulder" or something without a lining. Derek Guy has a good article on it at putthison.com/how-to-tell-if-soft-tailoring-is-right-for-you/
@@gentlemenscholarsclub thanks a lot, excellent article. Got tempted by Ring Jacket again, can't quite put my finger to it but there's something to their jackets that just looks right. Still conflicted on "soft soft tailoring", though, jackets in the article and also what we've been seeing from Cucinelli or Isaia in recent years, divots and all, I understand it's supposed to look a bit messy and crumpled and that it reduces the formality just like I understand some people feel better in unlined and very lightly, if at all, canvassed jackets, but I like the suit armour feel. It's a spectrum, though, and I find your take very interesting as I've been exploring in a similar direction, it's very easy to be way overdressed these days so soft, plush materials, flannels, suede, earthy colors, taupe rather than grey etc. are one way to go, also what you were talking about on no tie BD shirt looks in another video. I guess we'll have to invest in some more tailoring and experiment with different canvassing, padding, roping etc. options to find the right look and feel.
May I have an unrelated question, please, as you obviously have considerable expertise, which shirtmaker would you recommend for a fat, beefy collar that stays up, BD or regular, or perhaps what collar height works best, what cotton type? Most poplins, twills and oxfords don't have this quality and an unbuttoned collar looks somehow dull and lifeless either right away or after wearing the shirt for a couple of hours. I know a one-piece collar is one way to go but I'd like the collar even fatter and possibly with a higher top button.
I hear you on the "suit of armor"; structure is likely the way to go in the board room or business to achieve that. Divoting of the shoulder is probably more a problem with soft shoulders as you say, but I've found I eliminated it when I went with a larger size (I was wearing super tight size 36 US/46 EU a few years ago when I am definitely a 38/48 at least). Ring Jacket and The Armoury's version of it remain my favorite fit. I really should wait and buy only their items but I like to have a diverse range of jackets, so I end up getting less expensive brands. Today I am thinking--wait and get one a year from RJ or something like that. Regarding a shirt collar that is large and tall, if you have a longer neck, go for it. It is appealing just like a cravat was appealing when Beau Brummel and the 19th century dudes around him innovated men's style. A lot of what we do these day is based on recapturing those looks, which were the height of menswear IMO. On the higher end side, I would talk to 100 Hands about your needs. If you want something "reasonable" then Proper Cloth has a lot of collar styles. They have a tall Italian one that you can get in a firm option that might do it. It might be the Roma: propercloth.com/collar-styles
Corduroy, with it's contrasting texture, would fit nicely into this scheme. What do you think?
Definitely--video on corduroy coming this season as well. The texture would be great, as you mentioned. Videos on corduroy are coming this season!
Love the idea! What was the the name of the site where you purchased that turtleneck?
YOOX, though TBH, I wouldn't recommend it except unless you choose really carefully, as I've returned 90% of their things.