A much better way of doing this is to not add the water, take a spray bottle and fill it with regular household white vinegar, spray on some paper shop towels, (cut in small pieces if doing small area) place the soaked paper towel over the rust and then cover with some saran wrap to keep it moist over night. Next day either a wire wheel or a lot of rubbing with course steelwool and most if not all will be gone. Did an entire 69 GTO and removed 95% of the rust on the entire car.
Thank you, I need to try this. Years ago I used citric acid (available as a powder for canning/preserving fruits) to clean up some rusty bolts and it worked very well. Lately I have been using Evapo-rust on cars and like it even better. I wet a small piece of paper towel, place it over the rusty area, then cover with packing tape to hold it in place and keep from drying out. Remove a few hours later and the rust is usually gone, or gone with one extra treatment. Not sure what is in Evapo-rust but know it's neutral pH so safer to use in general, as it won't rust surrounding metal or the other side of the panel if it drips through.
I've used viegar with reasonable success in the past but recently started playing with phosphoric acid and prefer the phosphoric acid results. Vinegar must be neutralized or flash rust occours immediately. Phosphoric requires no neutralizing and leaves an iron phosphate primer.
A product called Metalprep 79 is a phosphoric acid based product and is what I have used for many years to treat bare steel surfaces before priming. You wet down the surface with this stuff and keep it wet for around two minutes, not allowing it to dry, then rinse thoroughly with plain water (if able, you can use hot water, and your parts will dry faster) The surface of the metal will be converted to a thin film which primer will stick to extremely well. Metalprep 79 also etches away the light surface rust that starts forming as soon as you are done sanding, even though it may not yet be visible. I use paper towels dripping with Metalprep to apply it, but on larger items I think I'm going to spray it on using an old spray gun, since it's a challenge to keep the entire part wetted (by the time I've gotten to the end of the part, the starting place has nearly dried). Auto paint suppliers will have Metalprep 79, or you can order from somewhere which is what I had to do.
@141runn Vinegar works well for getting rust off of bolts, small pieces. I let them soak overnight (but nt longer than that) and rinse thoroughly with water.
Yes vinegar will remove rust. You MUST neutralize it with baking soda afterwards thought. Dry it on after ring and dry off with a hair dryer or heat gun. You will need to use some sort of primer afterwards to prevent flash rust. I prefer VHT. Black Epoxy paint in a can. It adheres EXTREMELY well , seals out moisture and is extremely durable. It comes in satin black and glossy black. It flows out excellent and self is self leveling
you can buy a small sand blaster or make one out of an air blower and a supplement pill bottle. i worked in autobody for 6 years, even marhyde rust converter is only a bandaid solution good for about 4-5 years. the rust underneath doesnt all get neutralized. i watched diy autochool's channel for a while and have seen the vid you're mentioning. pete may be getting lucky or people arent letting him know the rust returned. you can't warranty against rust.
vinegar removes 95% of rust, then wipe with phosphoric acid, once you put sealer over it you're done, wont come back, Have done it over the last 10 years on several classic cars. Also sandblaster is just not an option if some panels, does so much damage you will be mud working it forever.
The only way I know of to end the return of rust is to sand blast it clean, then wax and grease remover then tin it with lead, once it's tinned the rust will not return wherever the metal has been tinned.
@@mechanic72he's killing the rust, nothing will stop metal from rusting you can only slow it down and Yes vinegar is used to chemically remove rust by dissolving the rust. Vinegar contains acetic acid which reacts with iron oxide-hydroxide (rust). The product is iron acetate which is water soluble. Vinegar plus baking soda reacts to form a different chemical called sodium acetate. The sodium acetate is actually much better at removing the rust than just regular vinegar due to an effect called "chelation". The same way sulfuric acid removes rest. You shouldn't speak on something you clearly understand
I wouldn't have thought such a diluted ratio would work. But it clearly did! Thanks for posting.
Quick and to the point. Love it and thank you.
A much better way of doing this is to not add the water, take a spray bottle and fill it with regular household white vinegar, spray on some paper shop towels, (cut in small pieces if doing small area) place the soaked paper towel over the rust and then cover with some saran wrap to keep it moist over night. Next day either a wire wheel or a lot of rubbing with course steelwool and most if not all will be gone. Did an entire 69 GTO and removed 95% of the rust on the entire car.
Thank you, I need to try this. Years ago I used citric acid (available as a powder for canning/preserving fruits) to clean up some rusty bolts and it worked very well. Lately I have been using Evapo-rust on cars and like it even better. I wet a small piece of paper towel, place it over the rusty area, then cover with packing tape to hold it in place and keep from drying out. Remove a few hours later and the rust is usually gone, or gone with one extra treatment. Not sure what is in Evapo-rust but know it's neutral pH so safer to use in general, as it won't rust surrounding metal or the other side of the panel if it drips through.
I've used viegar with reasonable success in the past but recently started playing with phosphoric acid and prefer the phosphoric acid results. Vinegar must be neutralized or flash rust occours immediately. Phosphoric requires no neutralizing and leaves an iron phosphate primer.
Phosphoric is used in commercial rust treatments ,Jenolite, and similar gels.
for bolts i thought about vinegar and then neutralizing them with a tumbler full of baking soda
A product called Metalprep 79 is a phosphoric acid based product and is what I have used for many years to treat bare steel surfaces before priming. You wet down the surface with this stuff and keep it wet for around two minutes, not allowing it to dry, then rinse thoroughly with plain water (if able, you can use hot water, and your parts will dry faster) The surface of the metal will be converted to a thin film which primer will stick to extremely well. Metalprep 79 also etches away the light surface rust that starts forming as soon as you are done sanding, even though it may not yet be visible. I use paper towels dripping with Metalprep to apply it, but on larger items I think I'm going to spray it on using an old spray gun, since it's a challenge to keep the entire part wetted (by the time I've gotten to the end of the part, the starting place has nearly dried). Auto paint suppliers will have Metalprep 79, or you can order from somewhere which is what I had to do.
@141runn Vinegar works well for getting rust off of bolts, small pieces. I let them soak overnight (but nt longer than that) and rinse thoroughly with water.
@@hatbpto5180 they always flash rust if i just rinse with water
Did that to some deep pitted rust on some wheels I painted 18 years ago, they are still rust free. Turns the rust into a black like primer.
Why dilute it?
Is the rust we see just flash rust?
Come on people the guys are genius guys need to be watching this
Yeah with vinegar and water and neutralizes rust. One thing about metal you can rust just in the open air moisture good video
Yes vinegar will remove rust. You MUST neutralize it with baking soda afterwards thought. Dry it on after ring and dry off with a hair dryer or heat gun. You will need to use some sort of primer afterwards to prevent flash rust. I prefer VHT. Black Epoxy paint in a can. It adheres EXTREMELY well , seals out moisture and is extremely durable. It comes in satin black and glossy black. It flows out excellent and self is self leveling
Try to use cutting compound to remove surface rust discovered by accident and leaves a waxed surface to get ready for the next step
Thank you sir
you can buy a small sand blaster or make one out of an air blower and a supplement pill bottle. i worked in autobody for 6 years, even marhyde rust converter is only a bandaid solution good for about 4-5 years. the rust underneath doesnt all get neutralized. i watched diy autochool's channel for a while and have seen the vid you're mentioning. pete may be getting lucky or people arent letting him know the rust returned. you can't warranty against rust.
vinegar removes 95% of rust, then wipe with phosphoric acid, once you put sealer over it you're done, wont come back, Have done it over the last 10 years on several classic cars. Also sandblaster is just not an option if some panels, does so much damage you will be mud working it forever.
@@gpoetx good to know, thx👍
The only way I know of to end the return of rust is to sand blast it clean, then wax and grease remover then tin it with lead, once it's tinned the rust will not return wherever the metal has been tinned.
Don't worry brother I got you back
Vinegar is an acid
Nice on fish n chips though.
It does not stop rust !
@@mechanic72he's killing the rust, nothing will stop metal from rusting you can only slow it down and Yes vinegar is used to chemically remove rust by dissolving the rust. Vinegar contains acetic acid which reacts with iron oxide-hydroxide (rust). The product is iron acetate which is water soluble. Vinegar plus baking soda reacts to form a different chemical called sodium acetate. The sodium acetate is actually much better at removing the rust than just regular vinegar due to an effect called "chelation". The same way sulfuric acid removes rest.
You shouldn't speak on something you clearly understand