My 2008 impala recently threw this code for Pedal Position error. Amazed at replacement part prices for the vehicle. Super Cheap! Non-name brand Gas Pedals $35 bucks!! Thottle body Assembly $55!! To AC delco original, Throttle body 180 and Pedal for $80. And both can be replaced in less than an hour after watching wonderful videos like yours and others.
Have a 2008 chevy impala Lt and the service traction control will pop up for a few mins then turn off even when the car is in park or just starting it in the morning. Got these two codes C0242-71 and C0561-71
I get P2122 and the connector coming from the ecm or other into the cabin that plugs into the APPS has one of the two 5 volt sends way below what it should be. What do you think is the cause? It’s not the sensor at the pedal.
Have you figured it out my car is throwing the same code I’ve replaced the app and the throttle body no wires look broken but I drive a Cadillac and can’t see most of the wires
Have 05 yukon AWD with autoride..from a stop if you hit the accelerator to fast it makes a weird electrical humming/grinding noise and limits power.then you let off and it will accelerate normal. No lights or anything. Sounds like its coming from driver side up front..thoughts?
Noise with acceleration could be anything from an air leak to low engine oil to power steering or something simple. Limiting power could be acceleration pedal or anything that connects with, throttle, etc. you are needing fuel air and spark distributed evenly to run. May be running rich and need to adjust carb.
I have a 2014 sonic rs, for the last year I've had a loss of power at full power, it will give keep giving power then not every second, I have a check engine every 6 months mixed with the loss of traction symbol. It will clear up after a day or 2 but the fluctuations of power at ¾ to full throttle remains. Any idea? 😊
My car is giving codes for the ECU I replaced the gas pedal everything was good for a while. I started having issues again, and then purchase the code reader . Not sure what to do.🤷♂️
Something similar happened to me. mid 1980's my 1977 Ford Granada V8 started dying whenever it rained or got foggy outside. Open hood. Cracked ring gasket below distributor cap. Trip to "Track Auto" (now out of business, wow) and $7.00 for a new ring gasket for a Ford 302 engine. Issue solved. ONE- BIG issue with Throttle Body Sensors in all Vehicles today... as I've done some research, not from personal experience, is cleaning the butterfly by soaking it in cleaner. The strong solvent gets into the TSP destroying its plastic innards.
Point of Story - Always great to own a reliable and common car. The ford 302 V8 was so common. Same as the 3.5 and 3.6 V6 on the Impala, a common car, parts are easy to find cheap the car itself, easy to fix. My Audi on the other hand, reliable, but if anything broke (and with ANY car something ALways breaks at some point... ), blood, sweat and tears, to fix. German engineering?!... my butt... fixable, you just gotta baby them.... replace a filter, remove 20 components... u all know what i mean? I no longer own the Audi 5000. Great inline 5 engine... funky mechanical fuel injectors. Everything is relative, I'm sure unlike the 1980's when owning a 77 Ford made easy sense, today would be expensive as some parts for such an ANCIENT car would be hard to find. In a world of 3d printers anything is possible as far as some trim and pieces. But those cars, as great s they were, you only got 11 miles a gallon, but gas was 89 Cents a gallon, 1987-88.
It could be your throttle body, it could be your fuel injector sensor, it could be your fuel pressure regulator, it could be your fuel pump, your accelerator best bet is to go to auto zone, advanced auto, or oreillys and let them use a code reader to determine where the problem is. Each part reads a different code. Whatever code you get buy that part and replace it that’s most likely the issue
Have a 3.0 03 Saturn view rebuilt the motor and it says reduced engin power and it won't do nothing more than coast. No acceleration changed pedal and throttle body
My 05 corvette isn't gaining any traction. The service traction system came on. My corvette won't go above 40. The rpms go up but the speedometer doesn't.
I replaced the sensor with a new aftermarket one, junkyard oem ones, cleaned throttle body, even tried different junkyard pcm and still the same issue! What do you think?
Ur rIt bt mOr lIk infinity with chevy impala-german-type engineering👋. last video I Cn, the guy apparently fixed it by replacing MAF sensr.. (btw., p420s the sAm infinity causes cunundrum).
My 2008 impala recently threw this code for Pedal Position error. Amazed at replacement part prices for the vehicle. Super Cheap! Non-name brand Gas Pedals $35 bucks!! Thottle body Assembly $55!! To AC delco original, Throttle body 180 and Pedal for $80. And both can be replaced in less than an hour after watching wonderful videos like yours and others.
Has anyone noticed this happening more with cold weather? Super strange
Yes man I can’t even drive my car really
Yea started happening with cold weather.
@MAXXGATES43 ok good to know. It hasn’t happened at all lately since the weather got warmer but I’ll deff Look into getting one.
Thanks again
This all started on Christmas 😭
@@KingdomMindedCafe has yours gotten Better? Mine totally stopped when it stopped being freezing temps
Thank you. great video short and sweet. directly to the point unlike other videos. thx
Have a 2008 chevy impala Lt and the service traction control will pop up for a few mins then turn off even when the car is in park or just starting it in the morning. Got these two codes C0242-71 and C0561-71
I get P2122 and the connector coming from the ecm or other into the cabin that plugs into the APPS has one of the two 5 volt sends way below what it should be. What do you think is the cause? It’s not the sensor at the pedal.
Have you figured it out my car is throwing the same code I’ve replaced the app and the throttle body no wires look broken but I drive a Cadillac and can’t see most of the wires
Have 05 yukon AWD with autoride..from a stop if you hit the accelerator to fast it makes a weird electrical humming/grinding noise and limits power.then you let off and it will accelerate normal. No lights or anything. Sounds like its coming from driver side up front..thoughts?
Noise with acceleration could be anything from an air leak to low engine oil to power steering or something simple. Limiting power could be acceleration pedal or anything that connects with, throttle, etc. you are needing fuel air and spark distributed evenly to run. May be running rich and need to adjust carb.
I have a 2014 sonic rs, for the last year I've had a loss of power at full power, it will give keep giving power then not every second, I have a check engine every 6 months mixed with the loss of traction symbol. It will clear up after a day or 2 but the fluctuations of power at ¾ to full throttle remains. Any idea? 😊
My car is giving codes for the ECU I replaced the gas pedal everything was good for a while. I started having issues again, and then purchase the code reader . Not sure what to do.🤷♂️
Did u try changing throttle?
@ ya it ended up being the ecu
If it helps i fixed mine and it was because i was putting e85 gas in and i started putting 87 and it stopped
I changed my body throttle and it's still the same. What else would it be?
For mine it was the throttle position sensor gasket was cracked, check that first because its only $15
Something similar happened to me. mid 1980's my 1977 Ford Granada V8 started dying whenever it rained or got foggy outside. Open hood. Cracked ring gasket below distributor cap. Trip to "Track Auto" (now out of business, wow) and $7.00 for a new ring gasket for a Ford 302 engine. Issue solved. ONE- BIG issue with Throttle Body Sensors in all Vehicles today... as I've done some research, not from personal experience, is cleaning the butterfly by soaking it in cleaner. The strong solvent gets into the TSP destroying its plastic innards.
Point of Story - Always great to own a reliable and common car. The ford 302 V8 was so common. Same as the 3.5 and 3.6 V6 on the Impala, a common car, parts are easy to find cheap the car itself, easy to fix. My Audi on the other hand, reliable, but if anything broke (and with ANY car something ALways breaks at some point... ), blood, sweat and tears, to fix. German engineering?!... my butt... fixable, you just gotta baby them.... replace a filter, remove 20 components... u all know what i mean? I no longer own the Audi 5000. Great inline 5 engine... funky mechanical fuel injectors. Everything is relative, I'm sure unlike the 1980's when owning a 77 Ford made easy sense, today would be expensive as some parts for such an ANCIENT car would be hard to find. In a world of 3d printers anything is possible as far as some trim and pieces. But those cars, as great s they were, you only got 11 miles a gallon, but gas was 89 Cents a gallon, 1987-88.
So a code P16F3 means what? Because i received those fault messages also.
Can you take out the fuse on a 2007 Cheverlot
Yes
It could be your throttle body, it could be your fuel injector sensor, it could be your fuel pressure regulator, it could be your fuel pump, your accelerator best bet is to go to auto zone, advanced auto, or oreillys and let them use a code reader to determine where the problem is. Each part reads a different code. Whatever code you get buy that part and replace it that’s most likely the issue
P2138 is code for acceleration pedal which you don't include and is the main problem and failure and code for this model truck
Have a 3.0 03 Saturn view rebuilt the motor and it says reduced engin power and it won't do nothing more than coast. No acceleration changed pedal and throttle body
My 05 corvette isn't gaining any traction. The service traction system came on. My corvette won't go above 40. The rpms go up but the speedometer doesn't.
Went above. 3000 rpms and it just stopped. Just trying to get into traffic and not bring stupid.
I replaced the sensor with a new aftermarket one, junkyard oem ones, cleaned throttle body, even tried different junkyard pcm and still the same issue! What do you think?
Check wires, might be acceleration pedal? Could always return it if the new pedal doesn’t work
If you take the throttle body off, make sure you don’t miss the gasket that’ll throw like 3 or more codes.
My whip having the same problem
Wat about the traction control? U didn't mention anything,n izz there a fuse for traction control!
I have my traction control come on with check engine with and coughing power issue at near full throttle? Simular?
I cleaned out my throttle body no changes at all
Dude, perfect. Thank you
Thank you
Mass airflow sensor fixes it
Dude, there are a dozen, OR MORE, different causes with the exact same symptoms!
Tell em chief!
@@isaiahdray I did
@@chhansen9813 where did you tell them I see nothing
Ur rIt bt mOr lIk infinity with chevy impala-german-type engineering👋. last video I Cn, the guy apparently fixed it by replacing MAF sensr.. (btw., p420s the sAm infinity causes cunundrum).
@@ezwa9979Sorry, for I do not speak gibberish!
Right
throttle body bro... 600$
Mine was 220 I replaced that and the app nothing
cost of Throttle Body Assembly is only a few bucks more than the TSP. Just go for a new Throttle body Assembly. Cheap.
Ok but it will not start
2006 Ford escape XLT all wheel drive 3.0