Upper Ball Joints. YOU CAN DO IT!! Step by Step...How to replace them on a 1997-2003 Expedition.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2017
- Upper Ball Joints. YOU CAN DO IT!! Step by Step...How to replace them on a 1997-2000 Expedition.
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PLEASE READ: The "Arrow" is pointing at the "Ball joint". But the hole assembly is the upper control arm. The ball joint is part the entire assembly, that's how they designed it. If some says "you need a upper ball joint" well, then you'll get one, with the entire assembly. Its all one unit. I tried to keep it simple but folks get confused. Then there is the Upper control arm bushings lol... part of the unit also.
Thank you so much I’ve watched “master mechanics” that couldn’t explain half of what you did!! Good job
Thats funny because this is a control arm replacement, not ball joint replacement
Had these upper control arms in the box for a year because I didn’t have the confidence to do it myself. Thank you for this video. I have all tools you used and believe I can get this done
Nice job on this vid. You showed how easy it is to replace Upper Arms on an Expedition/F150.
FWIW: Just did a lower BJ replacement. That stud did not want to come out even with a BJ-Puller/Seperater and a 3 pound sledge. It finaly popped loose on the 4th Tighten/Whack cycle. Each time I had the Jack Screw really tight and gave the Knuckle a couple of serious Whacks with the 3 Pounder.
An Observation:
It's possible you may have early failure of the rubber bushings on the passenger side. Maybe both sides.
As I remember, you had to force the upper arm into position to engage the steering knuckle which indicates that either or both upper/lower arms were not in the same position(s) (Angles) as when the old upper Arm was disconnected from the Steering Knuckle. If it was only the lower arm out of position, then no problem.
You may have performed Upper Arm Angle Setting Adjustments and didn't record it or lost it in editing or I just missed it.
When the upper arm mounting nuts/bolts are torqued, the Arm-to-Frame Angle should be with the arm at Normal Ride-Height Angle else the compressed rubber bushings have a tendency to tear and then disintergrate as the arm swings through it's suspension travel and they age.
The best way to adjust Ride Height Arm Angle is with a tire mounted on the opposite side and supporting the weight of the vehicle. Then with a floor jack under the repair side Lower Arm adjusted to level the vehicle Left to Right. No part of the vehicle can be supported by Jack-Stands while doing this leveling else vehicle weight won't be evenly distributed Left to Right.
Slide a tire or two under the frame for safety.
Some Mekeniks simply Eye-Ball the Arm-Angle before tear down and 'Get-it-Good-Enough' when mounting the new Arm.
Some (me), make a cardboard templet of the Arm to Frame Angle after disconnecting the Arm from the Knuckle but before loosening the mounting Nuts/Bolts so they (I) can pre-set the angle before final tightening of the nuts/bolts with the repair side at Ride-Height using the jack leveling methode.
You've got to juggle between Arm Angle and Mounting Bolt Slot Position while performing both Pre and Final tightening.
Remember, it's the Left to Right Leveled Ride Height Final Tightening that counts not the Original (Old) Arm Angle. A previous Arm Replacement Mekenick may have Boogered-Up the Angle Adjustment. You don"t want to replicate his/her/their mistook!
Another problem is if the arm is tightened when angled Too Hi or Too Low, that side of the vehicle will tend to sit Too Low or Too Hi, respectively. That's because the Compressed Rubber Bushings pre-load the suspension to an abnormal Ride-Height.
Also, the action of the Shock Absorber will be modified because the compressed bushings are either Adding-To or Subtracting-From the Shock's Compression/Extension action with the Opposite Effect to the Opposite Action.
If the arm is Tightened at the proper angle, the Compressed Rubber Bushings simply dampen the action of the Shock Absorber equally in both Extension and Compresion and will not affect Ride Hight.
Setting one arm Too Hi and the other Too Low and driving down a bumpy road will make everyone SeeSick as the vehicle rolls randomly Left and Right with jerking motions. Get the Puke Bags ready. HAHA & LOL
BTW: I use the same Paint/Mark method to record Caster/Camber Bolt positions.
BTW: I use the same 'Torque to Spec' methode that you use. HaHa
BTW: An alignment in NH is about $100 not $40.
Again, good job on the vid. You've demoed, even to NewBees, how to save some serious money on auto repairs.
PS: Funny Story.
Many moons ago I became aware of the Suspension Arm Angle Setting problem when two of my friends replaced left and right Upper Arms on an F150.
Each worked on opposite sides with the truck hanging in the air on jack stands. They removed the Arm mounting bolts first then separated the Ball Joints using a rented tool. They reversed their removal process by torqueing the new BJ Studs into the Knuckles then mounting the Arms onto the frame with the Lower Arm/Knuckle hanging by the Shock Absorber and Sway Bar Link.
Basically, the Front End Suspension was at Full Extention as they reassembled the truck.
That night on a test drive, they were pulled over by a Cop because their Head Lights blinded him when coming from the opposite direction. The driver got a Defective Equipment Warning Citation and was allowed to go on his way.
The next day he stopped at a garage to get his Head Lights Re-Aimed and the mechanic said the front end was raised too hi for him to be able to adjust the head lights down to where they should be.
The mechanick already knew what the problem was as he guided my friend into the FE-Alignment Bay and saw the new upper arm behind the front tire.
He asked my friend a few questions then explained what was wrong and sent him home to re-set his Arm Angles.
He told me that after he adjusted the Arms, his head lights were OK and the Bouncy front end that had suddenly appeared went away.
HaHa: Problem Solved and Lesson Learned!
I kill time by watching youtube videos on various subjects and always enjoy watching the DIY people think they are saving money by doing it themselves...as opposed to a pro mechanic. This video is a perfect example. As I watched, I wondered if this guy would set the arm angles or just tighten everything up on the jacksands = -your comment beat me to the ride height/arm angle/premature bushing failure issue with this guys "procedure." I'll bet he never figured out where his new squeak was coming from after he did this "$ saving job." He solved the ball joint problem and then created bushings/ride height/stability problems. Technical manuals require reading. Parts houses don't sell adequate repair manuals. Claw hammers are for nails - not cars. Get a seperator - they make them for a reason and at least clean off the mating surfaces - don't install new parts on dirty surfaces & never beat a bolt into a hole with a friggin hammer - jeez.
Nathan Rohrbough,,,, Don't know who you are. But I really enjoyed your video clip. I have watched many video clips here on youtube, Your video clip is among the top 3. The quality of your video, the sound, the instructions, step by step, Your video was so awesome, Thank you for taking the time to do it right.
Thanks for making this great video, saved me about 400 bucks in labor, I was able to do it easily myself with your help. Thanks again
I believe that part is called upper control arm and not "upper ball joint"
I think you’re right but if I’m not mistaken the upper control arm does contain the upper ball joints also, so replacing the upper control alarm also replaces the upper ball joint.
Yeah and those pieces you cant just replace the balljoint on those trucks
I want to take our time and thank you because I need to replace the one on mine
Now I am totally confident I can do a good job and thanks for the tip on marking the bolts. Man you don’t know how grateful I am
Cool!~
GREAT video. I wasn't going to do it until I watched your video on how relatively simple it was. Thanks.
I purchased a grease gun that came with a grease tube which was more than enough to grease both the ball joints at Harbor Fright for only $12.99. Hope this helps someone. Great video.
Nice!!
Quick and easy thanks for sharing
Wow💥 I love that old Jack" !!
Nice!
Excellent video and step by step instructions. Thank you very much!
Cool!~
That's the Control arm with ball joints already included. Congrats though :). LOVE IT
Nice!
I agree with one of the other replies below the quality of your video and the sound is great. Appreciate the great instructions which make the job look not nearly as difficult as I thought it was going to be. Of course I don’t know how bad it is until I actually do it, but you make it look like a do it yourselfer can actually do this job. Thanks
Nice!
Awesome teaching vid!
Excellent video.
This helped me out a lot I was working on a Ford and I just getting parts for a Chevy they had a clip on the ball joints they were just giving me the upper ball joint not the bracket that it's on
pretty cool you mention sizes of the nuts, thanks.
Ford uses all metric
Thx for sharing, i feel the more videos we have of the same part change we ge many different angles to view from, not always easy from watching from one angle but you fan only do so much, so thank you and hope you continue to share ur videos with the rest of us.
No pensé que estaba tan fáciles usted lo hizo mirar fácil Muchas gracias que Dios te bendiga
So I've got a 2003 eddie bauer expedition, and this was mostly similar, except to remove the bolts on the upper control arm you have to pull the strut completely. Just finished the drivers side, which means I've now removed every strut on my vehicle.
Advice to anyone trying the same, be careful with the upper mounts for the struts, keep the front end around the same height to avoid pinching the spring with the swaybar, and get ready to use some interesting amounts of torque with a breaker bar if you're from a place where things get rusty.
Truth!
Thank you so much!!!!! LIFE SAVER, you are!!!!
Word!
Sir u save my live thanks so much for sharing nice video nice quality. U got a new follower..
Thank you sooo much for this vid! I tried using a pickle fork to get the ball joint off, and that was a major fail. Whacking the A arm is what knocked it loose for me. Also didn't know about the grease in the boot. Thanks again! :D
;D
Did my 1 ton Chevy van few months ago. This looks a lot easier to do than GM.
Right!!
Very good
Nice!!
That is a control arm with a ball joint already install. So its considered control arm not ball.
excellent video but put the zerks in before install to avoid the risk of getting undercarriage dirt in that tiny hole. Glad it's such an easy install unlike most Ford repairs. ty
Me too!!
Thank you
;D
I bought a expedition recently and pulled hard to the left I went and had it aligned they couldn't do it and said it had a bent frame finally a seasoned employee looked at it and noticed that it had two right side upper a arms on the suv thank goodness that he seen the problem they installed the proper a arm on the left side and they then could align the suv the last owner didn't make sur to in stal a left a arm but installed a right a arm they ar close but just a little bit diferent
Nice
Torque wrench?
Good job buddy...u have the link for that piece?
So I have a 96 Ford explore it needs an upper ball joint do I have to change the whole a arm or can I press out the ball joint. I think it’s never been changed before I looked tonight the top one has no snap ring the bottom one does. So does that mean I have to change the whole a arm
Different ways.
Can you put a link to the control arms you purchased please?
Thanks.
So when i replaced it, it made the truck turn kind of wierd like kind of hard, so do ihave to replace the other one to make it turn regular again?
Mine says not too tighten bushing bolts until the suspension is at ride height that was not mentioned at all( too avoid premature bushing wear )....that's after it's off the jack or jack stands tires on the ground right ?....
I bought a 99 Ford expedition xlt Eddie. Nothing was a miss until I was parked sitting looking on the internet when this idiot hit me with his dam truck. And the noise come from either upper or lower ball joints.
Never put jackstands under the torsión bar always on the frame !
will the weight be inperial?
Nice video! What can you do if you don't have a tool for adding grease to fill the boot through the grease fitting? Could I put on the new control arms and then ask a mechanic to just add the grease? Or is there a DIY method?
There cheap...$5
@@FixingWithPassion Oh, cool. Thanks. What are they called? What kind of grease goes into it?
Is the upper ball joint serviceable without replacing entire control arm?
Yes if the bushings are fine no need to replace it but do a cost comparison between both, and see if it makes sense to u to leave them or replace them. Just make sure to get the proper tool from parts store to make installing the ball joints a lot easier.
Great video! I have a 1998 Ford F150 and I know my top control arms definitely need replacing, the bushings are toast. Do you recommend changing the bottom control arms/ball joints on each side as well or can I get away with just changing the top control arms? Is there anyway to test just the bottom control arm/ball joint besides using a visual inspection?
Jack it up and shake the tire look for play in the bottom. I'd do them all. Can't go wrong.
Yeah, I was thinking I should do them both why I am in there. Thanks!
Ok Great!
Rob NOspam... Yea I agree, if your Ford is that old, I would replace them, good or bad, I would replace them.
Trino Ponce yep
what about lower ball joints on an 2000 expedition, is it possible to just press them out and replace them rather than replacing the whole lower control arm?
Yes I have video's on here about that. Just do a search "lower ball joint replacement." under my name ;)
I just ordered upper and lower ball joints for my Ranger. But all the videos I see online are of people replacing the WHOLE upper control arm rather than just the ball joint. Is it too difficult to get the ball joint out of the control arm, and that's why everyone just replaces the whole control arm? I have seen the control arms online and I'm afraid to order that because half of the reviews say "didn't fit my truck, had to take it back and get a different one". I'd rather just leave my control arms in there along with the aligned cam bolts and just press out and replace the ball joint. Is that impossible on the uppers?
No you can change the entire ball joint/arm..........BUT....you will have a chance of the aliment getting off....Camber/ Up and down angle. That's why I just changed the ball joints so it would not have to deal with aliments.
Is there a specific grease for ball joints & tie rods or will any hard grease do? Great video!
No. Use clean stuff.
@@FixingWithPassion I asked two yes/no questions. I'm assuming you're saying there is no specific grease for ball joints. Thanks for replying.
Where did you buy the part online?
E-bay!~~
Thankfully it dosent have air ride, it sucks to do the upper arms with it.
Dont they come with grease already?
Most just put a a touch of grease in them. I've gotten some bone dry! So I just do it to make sure its full of grease;)
Nathan Rohrbough thank u so much, ur doing a great job, keep it up brother
🇺🇸👍🏾
Looks like ur gloves need a lil replacement too Lol
What part is removing a ball joint? All I see is removing upper control arm.
not a ball joint replacement you did the control arm with the ball joint in it already
Yes he needs to change the title
Agreed
"Little can" of rusted bolt whoopass.
This is Removing upper control arm NOT Ball Joint!
Good video though
Good enough!
Thought this was to replace ball joint not whole arm
Yea?
Most of original ball joints on fords specially expeditions are not serviceables, so you have to change the whole thing.
That not a ball joint!!! It’s a while assembly, which is called an upper control arm!!!
The "Arrow" is pointing at the "Ball joint". But the hole assembly is the upper control arm. The ball joint is part the entire assembly, that's how they designed it. If some says "you need a upper ball joint" well, then you'll get one, with the entire assembly. Its all one unit. I tried to keep it simple but folks get confused. Then there is the Upper control arm bushings lol... part of the unit also.
Way too much grease