I wish u lived close by. Mine quit taking grease so I replaced the fittings. Still no grease then I forgot about the lowers until I crossed a big root in the yard. It sounded like two steel balls clanging. So I took a big needle to shoot grease in the rubber sleeve but the sleeve has slipped down off the ball. Bad thing is I’m a sawdust slinging nail driver not a grease monkey. Thanks for the vid hoss.
Love the video !! I did my lower ball joints myself off of this video gotta love the Tenth Generation F-150s they are easy to work on and parts are very affordable. Thanks !!
Hey brother you saved me today. I did it hillbilly style with no special tools how you showed me. I beat the ish out of ish way harder than you did but hey……it drives like it always has without the noises 👊
Thanks for the shade tree advice. I used to turn wrenches myself for a living now just my own repairs! Getting up in years and it has been awhile for a ball joint so the tutorial is appreciated! 👍👍
Thanks for sharing your video. I did both sides. 2003 F150 rusty up here in Minnesota what a hell of a day upper control arm lower ball joint hub bearing assembly replaced what a nightmare rust no like. WD-40 was I used around Lower ball joint was so rusted ball joint remover turn that screw was very hard about 30 minutes, Tappan it hard on both sides lower control arm busted loose with a loud pop.
Damn,!!! You and your karisma, your are the man,!!! that was a groovy way of installing it without using a press, great job, however I'm kinda scared of beatn the crap out of that lower control arm as some of them are cast iron, but if your very careful, it can be done, and with a little lubricate spray, it should help and break free, but did you also know on certain balljoints, that have grease zerks, some have an impression mark on that rubber boot that indicates you must install it facing away from the rotor so that grease or excess grease will not fall onto the rotor.Thank you very much for sharing this type of work.👍👍 Be safe.
I'm about to have to do the same on my 2006 F150. Changed the struts and sway bar link, now ball joints and hub assemblies. I'm a Millwright by trade but vehicles can be a pain. Thanks for the video brother.
Just did my truck this video was a lot of help. Except I also did the tie rods and MAN did getting the ends off and putting the new one's on suck royally. That was absolutely the worst part of the job. The only thing was I didn't have a ball joint tool. So I just hammered the old lower ball joint out. Then I used 2, 25lb gold's gym weights stacked on my jack since the center hole was the right diameter. Then did like you did, and just jacked it up, and hammered it down. Still cussing those tie rods though. Off to get an alignment soon but at least now my wheels won't fall off going down the road.
No you shouldn't have vertical movement. And I do recommend getting it aligned afterwards. And if it's never been aligned you will need to add a alignment kit while you are at it. Last time I checked they were about $80.
Yeah i've had a ball joint explode while driving, it ain't fun. Its all fun and games until your tire goes side ways doing 60. The older i get and the newer the vehicle is, the less i enjoy working on them. Always interesting to see how other people go about things.
I put my jack under the ball joint and used the weight of the truck to break it loose, what I wanna know is how to separate the LCA from the torsion bar
Is the OEM Ford upper control arms discontinued/unavailable for these years 4x4 from Ford ? And what did you get ? And also for the lower ball joint did you get OEM Ford ?
I miss the days of kingpins . My 77 ranger had pins . Oh makes me think . I just had a ball joint put in a week and a day ago . I felt like a Dodge . Lol ! That is the way to get it done. Just get a BFH and let it rip . I have a fork but it has been used very little .
Man ur the fastest mechanic I've seen on TH-cam. You know ur stuff and love the real world tricks. Your customers probably loved ur turn around time. I know I learned a few tricks for my bag. Awesome work 👍👍
Great video. Didn't even look for my pickle fork. Just as an FYI, a 1 3/8 socket works on those stub axle nuts, so if you have one laying around you don't need the 35mm socket.
TRprepper, I just had my front end worked on my 02 f-150 4wd tie rods, ball joints, etc. I took it in for an alignment and was told I’m missing camber bolts to adjust camber on upper control arm. But your truck didn’t have these are our trucks the same?
I only use concrete after the dirt sunk in and there went my jack stands. After my truck dropped to the ground I was lucky my whole life it never failed on me doing that. Ever since I only use concrete surfaces now for jack stands
Because I don't much care for working around suspension parts due to their nature. I'm curious, I didn't see you support the lower control arm and left the shock attached. Is the shock what is keeping the torsion bar from flinging that big ass thing out? The part that concerns me is the understood fact that torsion bars or springs can come out, fling off...whatever. I'm willing to do anything myself that doesn't require anything special (transmission work, engine rebuild..etc) outside of basic hand tools and patience because for simple things.
On this series of truck when you jack the truck up the tension of the torsion bar is let off. And if there was any tension it's on the lower control arm which I didn't take loose.
I just paid to have the upper and lower ball joints, calipers, brake pads and flexible hoses on a 98 econoline F150 club van. I was charged 46 2/3 hours labor . Was this excessive? what does the book say? Appreciate it.
@@TRprepper thanks, I actually should have said 6 2/3 hours so I did well. to my mind, I should have been charged for the ball joints plus at most 1 hour extra since all the parts must be removed anyway to do the ball joints. Just was not charged that way. I was a former cost and analysis person
you cant hammer on newer cars like you can the older ones they will just break apart but i come frome a long line of mechanics and shade tree mechanics and thats how we did it too TR
use the jack to lift the lower control arm, you should have enough clearance than. sandpaper the hole out n coat the balljoint with anti-seize, will slide right in. I would do the balljoints on my 98 F250 every year, could knock out the old one with two wacks with the hammer
TR you saved yourself a few hundred dollars by diy! & Where is all the cussing and throwing of the tools? Well at least my car repair video would be mostly cussing and throwing shit!
This job actually went pretty smooth so not much cussing needed. There was a little on the first side though. I ordered the parts online and the upper control arms were the wrong ones, so I had to go into town and buy another set. That pissed me off. But still come out way cheaper doing it myself. Take care man!
I think these days the new generation of feel good snowflakes might be offended at the violent act towards the ball joints with a large hammer/sledge like that....Nice informative vid sir...Good stuff..
What? I cannot believe after watching this video that TRW would actually claim making that part. If you look at that it says TRW. Is that made Ford tough. I don't think so. That is for cheapo. I cannot believe TRW would stamped our name on something so ill designed and put their name on it. I wouldn't have cut it out. A lot of the pressure is on the upper ball joint the way it is designed and it's on a very flimsy frame and TRW stamped their name right on it. What does that tell you? TRW is more about the money Dan, the product that they still That's not cool. I always did behind TRW was behind Pistons and everything else but I will no longer stamp behind them. That is a shame that is a sham as what it is
I wish u lived close by. Mine quit taking grease so I replaced the fittings. Still no grease then I forgot about the lowers until I crossed a big root in the yard. It sounded like two steel balls clanging. So I took a big needle to shoot grease in the rubber sleeve but the sleeve has slipped down off the ball. Bad thing is I’m a sawdust slinging nail driver not a grease monkey. Thanks for the vid hoss.
Pretty clever trick, the hammer problem solver!
Love the video !! I did my lower ball joints myself off of this video gotta love the Tenth Generation F-150s they are easy to work on and parts are very affordable.
Thanks !!
Thanks I'm glad I could help.
Hey brother you saved me today. I did it hillbilly style with no special tools how you showed me. I beat the ish out of ish way harder than you did but hey……it drives like it always has without the noises 👊
Glad My video helped man.
This man is the real deal mechanic ! Much thanks I got a 99 F-150.
Thank you, hope it helps you!
@@TRprepper Yes definitely thank you I replaced both upper and lower ball joints myself. 👍
Good deal,bud! You just helped me with the lower joints on my 08 Ranger 4x4.😁
Glad I could help.
Thanks for the shade tree advice. I used to turn wrenches myself for a living now just my own repairs! Getting up in years and it has been awhile for a ball joint so the tutorial is appreciated! 👍👍
Thanks, glad you liked it.
My buddy
Gonna do my 98 4x4 today thanks brother we appreciate your service sir well done 👍👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪
Glad it helped.
Thanks for sharing your video. I did both sides.
2003 F150 rusty up here in Minnesota what a hell of a day upper control arm lower ball joint hub bearing assembly replaced what a nightmare rust no like. WD-40 was I used around Lower ball joint was so rusted ball joint remover turn that screw was very hard about 30 minutes, Tappan it hard on both sides lower control arm busted loose with a loud pop.
I am happy the video helped. In a rusty enviroment I'm sure it's a tougher job.
Thanks for doing this video. My 1998 F150 is in need of ball joints.
Hope it helped.
I’m gonna venture down that same road and your suggestions are gonna help a bunch.
Thanks, hope it helps.
Some very useful tips on replacing the ball joints for sure. Thanks for sharing brother.
Thanks man!
Looks fun. Can't wait to get my parts for next weekend. Thanks for the shortcuts .
Damn,!!! You and your karisma, your are the man,!!! that was a groovy way of installing it without using a press, great job, however I'm kinda scared of beatn the crap out of that lower control arm as some of them are cast iron, but if your very careful, it can be done, and with a little lubricate spray, it should help and break free, but did you also know on certain balljoints, that have grease zerks, some have an impression mark on that rubber boot that indicates you must install it facing away from the rotor so that grease or excess grease will not fall onto the rotor.Thank you very much for sharing this type of work.👍👍 Be safe.
Thanks I appreciate that.
I'm about to have to do the same on my 2006 F150. Changed the struts and sway bar link, now ball joints and hub assemblies. I'm a Millwright by trade but vehicles can be a pain. Thanks for the video brother.
Thanks I hope it helped.
Thanks for the knowledge and tips!
Lot of movement there, your were lucky! Nice fix TR!!
I knew they were bad but had no idea they were that bad, and it was all four of them. Dammit they were worn out.
Got a 97 needin em done too....great vid, ball joint install/remover tool ....priceless
It's not a hard job to do, just intimidating.
TRprepper front hubs went smooth, accept one rotor was seized to it, put in the press at work...I never seen a rotor flex so much lol !
Yes it's amazing sometimes how much metals will flex for sure. Glad you got it fixed.
Just did my truck this video was a lot of help. Except I also did the tie rods and MAN did getting the ends off and putting the new one's on suck royally. That was absolutely the worst part of the job. The only thing was I didn't have a ball joint tool. So I just hammered the old lower ball joint out. Then I used 2, 25lb gold's gym weights stacked on my jack since the center hole was the right diameter. Then did like you did, and just jacked it up, and hammered it down.
Still cussing those tie rods though. Off to get an alignment soon but at least now my wheels won't fall off going down the road.
Cool man, glad I could help.
Good stuff TR you can save a lot of money doing it yourself!
Yep I'm sure I saved 100's of dollars no doubt. I don't know what a shop would charge but my guess is I saved at least $500.
I'd like the video 100 times if it would let me
Thanks I appreciate that. Glad it was helpful.
Upper ball joint isn't part of the upper control arm. I bought new upper ball joints for my 03.
awesome. this is something I'll eventually need done on my 03' F150...I say need done because I'm not sure I'll do this myself. lol
I almost paid someone to do it, but knew I was able to do it myself. I put it off for way too long.
815.00 is what I was quoted
You made quick work of that! On the upper ball joint, should there be any vertical movement? Trying not to replace if not necessary.
No you shouldn't have vertical movement. And I do recommend getting it aligned afterwards. And if it's never been aligned you will need to add a alignment kit while you are at it. Last time I checked they were about $80.
Finally someone that know there is no need to fight with a fork
@trprepper thanks for the video my sir, helped me a bunch!
Glad it did, not a professional video but hopefully some good tips.
You made it look easy man
I had to get a few things figured out on the other side before I turned the camera on..LOL!
Good stuff TR!
Thanks borg!
Yeah i've had a ball joint explode while driving, it ain't fun. Its all fun and games until your tire goes side ways doing 60. The older i get and the newer the vehicle is, the less i enjoy working on them. Always interesting to see how other people go about things.
Good Video, thanks for sharing
Thanks, I hope it helps.
Thanks buddy I'll be doing this for the rest of the day I'm sure
It's not that bad, just time consuming.
Good video, thanks, now time to get messy!
Hope it helps!
I put my jack under the ball joint and used the weight of the truck to break it loose, what I wanna know is how to separate the LCA from the torsion bar
Good information thank you!👍
Hope it helps.
Nice work man...how does it ride/drive now?
Much better. It's one of those slowly going bad deals so you don't realize how bad it really is. Drives much smoother now.
Do not ever beat your tie rods or any suspension parts with a hammer
Is the OEM Ford upper control arms discontinued/unavailable for these years 4x4 from Ford ? And what did you get ? And also for the lower ball joint did you get OEM Ford ?
I ordered it online but it's been so long ago I couldn't tell you from who. They were aftermarket.
@@TRprepper Appreciate your reply Sir, just wondering, trying to piece together if new Ford parts are still good these days, thanks again.
TR knows what he's doing at 3:14 with the BFH
Marsh Rat Yep if a BFH won't fix it your in trouble.
I miss the days of kingpins . My 77 ranger had pins . Oh makes me think . I just had a ball joint put in a week and a day ago . I felt like a Dodge . Lol ! That is the way to get it done. Just get a BFH and let it rip . I have a fork but it has been used very little .
Yeah I used a fork as a last resort..LOL!
Man ur the fastest mechanic I've seen on TH-cam. You know ur stuff and love the real world tricks.
Your customers probably loved ur turn around time. I know I learned a few tricks for my bag. Awesome work 👍👍
Thanks I appreciate that.
Great video. Didn't even look for my pickle fork.
Just as an FYI, a 1 3/8 socket works on those stub axle nuts, so if you have one laying around you don't need the 35mm socket.
TRprepper, I just had my front end worked on my 02 f-150 4wd tie rods, ball joints, etc. I took it in for an alignment and was told I’m missing camber bolts to adjust camber on upper control arm. But your truck didn’t have these are our trucks the same?
Your a mechanic and you lwt your own personal truck go that long without replacing them knowing the dangers broken ball joints pose?
I didn't know they were that bad.
You need some ply board under them jack stands.. I also put them under my floor jack..
I only use concrete after the dirt sunk in and there went my jack stands. After my truck dropped to the ground I was lucky my whole life it never failed on me doing that. Ever since I only use concrete surfaces now for jack stands
Sometimes all you need is a BFH!
And if that doesn't work, get a bigger one!...LOL!
Hell of a job! Impressive work!
Thanks!
How was your tire wear? Mine is wearing on the inside on the tire.
Actually mine is wearing on inside and out even before I did this, When I replace the tires I'm going to have it aligned.
@@TRprepper Ok. Mine are wearing on the inside & I have that squeaking 'noise
Brillllllliant!
Thanks.
Because I don't much care for working around suspension parts due to their nature. I'm curious, I didn't see you support the lower control arm and left the shock attached. Is the shock what is keeping the torsion bar from flinging that big ass thing out? The part that concerns me is the understood fact that torsion bars or springs can come out, fling off...whatever. I'm willing to do anything myself that doesn't require anything special (transmission work, engine rebuild..etc) outside of basic hand tools and patience because for simple things.
On this series of truck when you jack the truck up the tension of the torsion bar is let off. And if there was any tension it's on the lower control arm which I didn't take loose.
I have the 2004 Heritage XL model.. I do not like the spring compressors. On this model do you think I could get buy without the use of one
Yeah the torsion bars like this one a spring compressors are not needed. Real easy to loosen up and drop the control arms.
How many miles on your truck? Ball joints is something i do not like doing on heavy trucks.
Wart Hog Right at 200,000 miles. So it was due, actually a little past do.
I just paid to have the upper and lower ball joints, calipers, brake pads and flexible hoses on a 98 econoline F150 club van. I was charged 46 2/3 hours labor . Was this excessive? what does the book say? Appreciate it.
I would say 8 hours would have been a plenty. Plus what ever they charge for alignment.
@@TRprepper thanks, I actually should have said 6 2/3 hours so I did well. to my mind, I should have been charged for the ball joints plus at most 1 hour extra since all the parts must be removed anyway to do the ball joints. Just was not charged that way. I was a former cost and analysis person
One thing I have never worked on is my truck. I am not an auto mechanic.
I once enjoyed working on cars until I did it for a living now I hate it, that's why I got out of it..LOL
you cant hammer on newer cars like you can the older ones they will just break apart but i come frome a long line of mechanics and shade tree mechanics and thats how we did it too TR
Yep a big hammer will usually pop them apart everytime.
You need to add some Michigan rust and cuss words and you would be in my shoes. LOL
live4wild I'd hate to work on a car from up north or on a coastal town.
all i have is trouble with my 2004 f150 front end cant keep it together and replaced and tort all to ford specs. ?????????????????
I guess its a weak part of the truck.
I'm going to need to get a bigger hammer!
A mini sledge is good to have, will fix many things..LOL!
use the jack to lift the lower control arm, you should have enough clearance than. sandpaper the hole out n coat the balljoint with anti-seize, will slide right in. I would do the balljoints on my 98 F250 every year, could knock out the old one with two wacks with the hammer
They come out really easy, you could knock them out easily if you supported the arm for sure.
This video will show you how to use the tool to install the new ball joint. 37:30 mark th-cam.com/video/4fsy6hGErHU/w-d-xo.html
TR you saved yourself a few hundred dollars by diy! & Where is all the cussing and throwing of the tools? Well at least my car repair video would be mostly cussing and throwing shit!
This job actually went pretty smooth so not much cussing needed. There was a little on the first side though. I ordered the parts online and the upper control arms were the wrong ones, so I had to go into town and buy another set. That pissed me off. But still come out way cheaper doing it myself. Take care man!
#2ARally2017
If you're going to video yourself doing car repair Please take your time to show the viewing public the proper way to use the tools.
I think these days the new generation of feel good snowflakes might be offended at the violent act towards the ball joints with a large hammer/sledge like that....Nice informative vid sir...Good stuff..
Thanks Scott, and you may be right. This video may get flagged for violence..LOL!!
Gee, you must be kidding...
What? I cannot believe after watching this video that TRW would actually claim making that part. If you look at that it says TRW. Is that made Ford tough. I don't think so. That is for cheapo. I cannot believe TRW would stamped our name on something so ill designed and put their name on it. I wouldn't have cut it out. A lot of the pressure is on the upper ball joint the way it is designed and it's on a very flimsy frame and TRW stamped their name right on it. What does that tell you? TRW is more about the money Dan, the product that they still That's not cool. I always did behind TRW was behind Pistons and everything else but I will no longer stamp behind them. That is a shame that is a sham as what it is