Caterpillar D4 undercarriage work (part 2 of 2)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2024
- Really cramped filming conditions for this one. Mic kept getting caught in my shirt when I crawled in there so the audio is muffled occasionally.
Follow me on Instagram for pictures of rusty junk:
/ pacific.northwest.hill...
Here are the previous videos from this project: • Caterpillar D4-7U Rebuild
Email:
pacific.northwest.hillbilly@gmail.com
Mail:
PNWH
PO Box 2515
Hillsboro, OR 97123
0:00 intro
0:46 removing rusty bolts
9:48 spring tension nut
12:15 engine spring mounts
20:47 prep and clean
22:34 spring install
26:41 tension track
27:52 greasing undercarriage
31:50 rear grease point
#caterpillar #d47u - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I am a maintenance mechanic in a foundry. There are bolts that have gone thru a gazillion heating/cooling cycles and have fused with the surrounding metal. I have an entire toolbox dedicated just for bolt/screw extraction. Been here 3 years and have only removed half a dozen bolts the normal way. The other 10,000 have been surgery. One of my prized possessions is a set of jobber length carbide drills with a left hand pitch. While I am drilling out the bolt for an extractor the left hand pitch allows for the cutting edge to occasionally grab hold and walks the bolt right out. About 30% of the time I can get it out like that. But if it doesn’t, I still end up with a hole. Then heat, then Liquid Wrench, soak, repeat a few times the the extractor. If you have the room, a porta-mag drill is the best.
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Left hand drill bits.
Definitely a mag drill if theres room. I broke my damn hand using a hand drill and 3/4" bit while opening up a hole on a trailer frame. I was as locked in and stable as a man can be, but still paid the price when one of the cutting edges broke off and the bit locked up. I'm not a tool noob, 20 yr mechanic, fabricator and welder here that really was very shocked when it happened lol.
Good stuff Matt. At least 50% of old iron refurbishment is removing stuck fasteners
One rusted bolt will take the same amount of time as 30 non rusted bolts
The "slip on" type grease fittings were also used on pipeline valves for natural gas. We referred to them as Alemite fittings. Alemite was a brand of lubricants and accessories. The grease in the valves was both lubricant and stem packing.
I admire your perseverance with removing the rusted bolts from the track frame. Being frozen with rust is bad but being in an inaccessible spot is worse. All hail the blue flame wrench!
Can't be stuck if it's liquid... Just sayin'
Alemite was the company that invented the grease fitting ……if I’m not mistaken. I know they make quality grease guns, fittings etc.
You have more friends than you know Matt, just many of us are not local sadly. Really love the job you're doing, I've learned so much watching your channel
Nice job working through the roadblocks the ole gal is presenting. Looking forward to seeing you drive the beast in the future! Thanks for bringing us along.
The ability to extract a bolt takes a special person with a lot of patience. You want to fix it at that rightful moment but you literally have to take your time and take breaks to think of different approaches. For those of you who think that this is easy without messing it up, I would think it again. Kudos to you on this project.
Jt G: Yes Yes You Need To Take Your Time Weld That Nut On Really Good The Heat From Welding Should Be Enough But It Would Be Good If You Could Keep It Hot With The Tourch It Will Come Out Instead Of all That Drilling Especially With An Extractor With a Bolt That Is That Tight
Yeah, I'd have gotten pissed off, thrown tools, cussed and went right to the torch.
I’m really enjoying this series of rebuilding your old cat. You could take all the old parts and weld then together making a piece of artwork, sell it or put it in your yard. As a tribute to your hard work.
Given the age of the Dozer and the weight of the engine resting on those leaf springs plus the battering they take during their working life I'd seriously suggest that you take then off and apart and either have them tempered again at a shop that does that or do it yourself.
I'd be surprised if they haven't lost some of their original "springyness".
Great job. I'm enjoying every video. I joined you when you dragged her out of the woods and admire your work and attitude. Thank you
Been watching these for a while and I love seeing the progress on the old rig
I've been waiting for this episode to see if you were able to get the parts you need to get the springs in full operational condition.
Ya gotta be slightly loony to take on a project like this one.
It actually helps keep you sane to be that way.
Some of the projects I've taken on my Wife thought I was full on loony tunes but boy was she impressed when I got them done and they turned out great.
I can't wait to see you pushin' pond dirt with this little beast.
Looks great brother, just try to heat bolts up red hot and let cool overnight, it’s a process that shouldn’t be rushed! But you got it figured out brother, thanks for sharing Matt and y’all stay safe and healthy my friend! 👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🇺🇸
Congrats Matt on getting the parts needed and getting the Bolts out. tough job, butt u did it. lv ur videos.
So very happy Matt to see another video as this is a close top video series for me. That iron and I are of a similar age and really am enjoying the care given to this build. The rabbit hole your in right now has to hurt as you are not endowed with buckets of cash. I can't wish you to work faster but will say your my go to as soon as I see it in notifications
A tip for removing large rust scale is use the flame of a cutting torch (like your going to cut a piece of steel) and pass it over the rusted areas about 2 inches and the rust scales will begin to pop off. Then hit it with your needle scaler. Also a piece of brass for plugging holes is great, the steel won’t fuse with the brass and it’ll last longer then the aluminum 🤙🏼.
Use your torch to heat up the old grease and pump new through is the best way I’ve found .
Thanks for another video, really enjoy seeing you work through the issues that present themselves regards Mike
Just got through all of the D4 vids. Great series so far, Matt. Looking forward to you continuing.
Hillbilly - You take all the time you need to work on ur project!!
I enjoy the effort & ur problem solving methods!!
No hurry - from somewheres in SWMO!
Perseverance, imagination, and patience. Key attributes for boot extraction. Love you vids brother. Wish I could be there to help… or at least hold a flashlight!😉
Building up those spring brackets. You are better off just making new ones. Takes about the same time but the results are far better.
When blowing out bolts with the gas what you have to remember is that you are using the thermal difference between the housing and the bolt. The trick is to keep the temperature of the housing below the point where the Oxy acetylene will start to cut. It can be done but it is tricky. An easier method where the hole is not blind is to drill a centered hole as large as you can without touching the thread and use a hacksaw blade to cut through the thread so you can pry the bolt remnant out.
You gotta love those “friends with a stick welder”😂😂😂
Great stuff Matt. Looking excellent. Nearly time to add the engine too!
Thanks Matt for another video. All the best
You have to find that socket - otherwise I wont be able to sleep. Great progress - it's shaping up.
I have been following your videos. Good job. I have a nearly restored D4D...
I saw the last video and I want to make an observation, because it's not the first time I've seen the same work.
When you try to unlock a bolt or nut with the torch, you must heat both parts very well and then wet them in cold water until they cool down, so that there is a thermal shock. So now you can unscrew them easily.
When both are hot, both expand, and when unlocking the pieces they are damaged or glued.
This is a very old method, used in Portugal. This is just a suggestion, I've learned a lot from you, I hope it helps you a little. Keep up the good work!
Hi Matt, just a quick note. With stuck bolts like you had it the track frame, use the torch heat around the stuck bolt. The heat expanse the metal around the bold. With you heating up the bolt, one your making it expand 2 making the bolt softer and will brake off. Enjoy your videos, and really glad your that your including us on TH-cam. Stay safe & awaiting next video. A friend in PA. Robin Jo
I have been a mechanic for over 50 years. Heres the deal. Heat causes most objects to expand. Heating the hole will enlarge it which is what you are trying to achieve. Heating the bolt will cause it to expand and thus make it tighter in the hole, which you dont want.
Love ya work Matt, looking forward to the next part, caterpillar should Gove u a medal for doing all this.
I have purchased and used many different make/model's of extractor's and they all have broke on me. Your right, once they break, it turns into way more problems. I never use them anymore... Your sir, are a master of your craft... HOOAH!!!
When you get close to firing it up or need an extra hand with something, let us folks in the area know. Would like to see it run close up or help.
You should really find a smaller diameter pipe to use as a breaker bar. You'll find you'll have less slop in it and it will be far more effective
Hello Matt, good to see you brother! You’re the man a! 👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻 Get those gloves brother, 37 years old welding I learned years ago! 😎 Matt, heat around it red and let cool over night! Last thing you want is just what you said about breaking it off! Well I’m glad you’re making some headway brother! I think you can swop the pins out for bolts and some hardened bolts! You could make new brackets out of flat bar!
What a struggle with the undercarriage Matt! I'm really enjoying your channel and this epic undertaking and videography. Oh yeah and Charlie too!
I feel for your frustration on this dozer. But you have given others the knowledge of what to look for when buying a used dozer.thanks for the help and I can't wait to see this thing pushing dirt for you.
Heat and quench! Heat and quench! Put some cold water on it after getting it hot so it shrinks and breaks up the rust. Heating is only half of the process.
Matt, you might want to hold onto the leaf spring ends after all, in addition to whatever safety you add directly to the engine. Squared-off u-bolts across the tops of the ends, and 3/8ths angle iron welded to the track frame.
Love the vids heat the casting not the bolt makes life easier. Keep up the good work
The wait between videos is killing me I forget I'm subbed.
Lots of good suggestions already. You are doing a great job. Bolt extraction is one of those deals that what worked before doesn't work again. It's always a patient process and you are excellent at keeping your patience. Most of the rust is from years of dirt, moisture, and oxygen and had ate at the heads of the bolts, too. No one can keep the dirt cleaned out of those locations. Thanks once again.
Laughed so hard when socket wrench fell.
At 12:40 - if viewers are not familiar with a needle scaler, they are really handy for breaking off loose rust scale on surfaces. I've used one for a couple car restorations and I also found it helpful for doing the same task on my riding mower deck that I neglected for 3 to 4 years which caused heavy pitting. I now use the needle scaler to clean my mower deck once a year after the final mowing and then spray it with "fluid film". If the deck isn't maintained you'll end up with a riding tractor instead, without a mower, and pretty much useless. I've had my riding mower for 15 years and, over the last several years have been trying to prolong the deck life by this method.
The needle scaler is available at Harbor Freight for not much money. Of course, you need an air compressor that can maintain at least 90 psi.
There are sources for the fluid film on the internet; might even be able to buy it locally. Fluid film seals the surface from air and reduces further deterioration over the winter months, prolonging its life. Replacement mower decks are hard to get after just a few years of manufacture.
Really nice work. Your patience is amazing.
When you grease the machine always and I mean always take out the fittings and use a new grease fitting to grease through it take it back out and put the run fitting back in when your done. I took out about 12 wheel bearing on my skidder greasing through run grease fittings. There gets a little dirt in the run fittings to eat up parts. Sense I when to using new grease fittings to grease everytime I haven't replaced any more wheel bearings of any other parts wearing out.
Hi Matt... have been enjoying watching your work..... I am impressed..... all the best from down under Don
2 things: when you heat up a stuck bolt: also heat the housing where it is located in. And: you can weld a new nut ontop of a rounded off bolt :)
Great work Matt!
Really enjoying this series Matt. Hang in there.
Awesome job, Well done!
Restoring old machines (especially those exposed to the elements) can be labor intensive and challenging for even the most seasoned mechanic. Nuts and bolts that have been rusting for 50+ years generally don't buzz right out! Looks like you're on the home-stretch though, so it should get easier! Nice work! 👍
to take out a rounded bolt like that the easiest way is to weld a nut to the top of it, and let it cool. keep up the good work
Woohoo! What an awesome surprise tonight! Thanks Matt!
I admire your patience. Great video .
Awesome Matt thanks.
Lots of work..keep em coming!!!!
Looking great i have to rank you up there with squatch 253
The difference between me and Squatch is that he knows what he is doing. Also, he is better looking.
I have no skill or knowledge in this field so can’t help with comments. I did want to say with your goggles, beard, and needle scaler you look like Mad Max (Mad Matt?) of Cat Land. Would make a great logo for T-Shirts. Love the series.
That's one heck of a tap!
Getting close! Gonna be awesome seeing you fire this up the first time.
Great job Matt, you gave them old bolts a beating and rescued the threads !
Job well done! Nice work Matt!!
great progress
Great job Matt, glad you found your wielding gloves.
Been flowing you for awhile loved every sec. Thanks for your hard work.
Dan in Fl. If it’s humor I love it . I enjoy watching you either way.
Your content is always interesting. But your determination to overcome speed bumps that impress me. Continued success to you from Cincinnati Ohio.
Well done Matt. Can't wait to see this run. Don't believe you don't have any friends🤔
Your doing an awesome job
keep up the good work. I love these videos, been watching since the start. Can wait to see you fire it up!
I sure hope that things work out for you. You have done a lot of work and there is still more to go. One thing for sure, you will know your machine inside and out.
Your videos are really interesting and entertaining. I could watch this series for the rest of my life. I hope you never finish 😉
I have good results with heating the iron that the bolt goes into . Theory has it it expands the metal around the bolt. A good few love taps on the head of the bolt helps to persuade it. Good video.
Nice job on the bolt extraction. I have been there, not fun and time consuming but worth the effort in the long run, regardless of the fact you had no choice. Good video, like your thinking and process sir.
An old timer, my father-in-law taught me a valuable hack for bolts that has worked 90% of the time, first heat said bolt red hot leaving no dark spots, next and this is the important part, use a sprits bottle squirt water or spray with wd-40 until cool to touch. Bolts will for the most part unscrew like you just ran the in.
That was free, hope you use it with the same smile it gives me when dealing with stuck bolts....
Matt an observation when welding two rusted pieces of metal together one always cleans the rust off where the weld is going to be laid down, I know sometimes there is no room to work but when welding a nut on a broken bolt or stud very few will clean up the metal before welding and the weld will break lol
take all the pressure off track from cement floor jack up the side your putting spring inside / move bogie wheel to help line up tension brackets to spring holder
Enjoying this series. Very entertaining. For backing up welds, copper is better since it has a much higher melting point. I would have also welded on a nice thick washer on the back of the bracket and made a linger pin.
I used to heat the area around the bolt as close to cherry red as possible. This caused the area around to bolt to expand. If it was really bad, I'd hold ice cubes on the bolt and that would give it enough expansion around the bolt and contraction of the bolt to help the situation.
28:50
Your grease gun is set for high pressure, low volume.
The lever has 2 positions. The upper one gives more volume (longer stroke) with lower pressure.
This is the funniest video you've made so far!
The only tool I would recommend is getting a rosebud or I think the official name is multiflame for the torch. I have used mine extensively for years vs a cutting tip. They are great for using up a lot of gas on the torch, too.🤑
So excited
Drive it around… ha!! Doing a great job.
All good Matt 👍👍👍👍 get'n close.
Great work! Just a foot note. When removing a bolt such as yours, you would heat around the bolt so the metal around the bolt will expand and the bolt can be removed. When you heat the bolt, it expands and actually tightens in the hole. (at least that is what i have experienced)
Love your videos. Have been following from the beginning. Keep up the good work.
Someone REALLY had their way with this dozer, damn
Great video Matt :) That darn old Grease will be a Tuff Sucker, have fun and keep up the hard work, you have a great Audience viewing, so enjoy your time...
For the idler, rollers you should use a high volume, low pressure gun. The piston on those is about 3 times the diameter as the regular grease gun.
You gotta just love it.. see you next time
I have found a little ball pean hammer is perfect for those situations, mine has a 6 inch handle and is very small. When you cannot get a big one in you will be thankful that you have it
Another story on SLOANS Liniment…when we moved to NC in ‘99 we looked for and found a good marine outboard mechanic. Found on working on an old 100 hp Mercury i believe. He was in his shop trying to free up the big swivel pin that the tilting up outboard swings up on. It was frozen to the aluminum female hinge part on the mounting bracket. I believe it was steel shaft frozen to the aluminum female part of the motor. I watched for a minute and suggested he try the elevator mechanic’s . When I was nearby a few weeks later i stopped btpy his shop and inquired as to his success with the frozen outboard tilt hinge. “ worked like a charm. I could not believe it.” My mechanics swore by Sloan’s on frozen steel on steel. This was steel on aluminum. Another trick is paint thinner on looking for cracked cast iron or steel parts. Like cracked Jeep engine heads. Varsol also has a very low viscosity and will show the crack,spray it on, wipe it off and the paint thinner will stay in and show the crack in the head. I believe it would work just as well on frozen bolts.
Anyone trying these old tricks please send me a thank you . I prefer cash, but a $100 gift certificate would be line. No Biden digital money please.
JoeB
Can almost hear this old iron sigh with relief as the grease flows into and around the bearings.
When you are welding always keep the ground as close to the work as possible. When you had no connection, the current will try to flow through the bearings and you get weld spots on the races and roller/balls.
Needed to let your welded nut cool a little and heat around the bolt instead of the bolt itself. While attempting to back out the bolt.
Thank you so much for another excelent video!... Best regards for you and your friends and families in UUEE!!... God bless you!!... from Santiago of Chile, SouthAmerica!!
You could try a Bushing to adapt a Grease Fitting ? Thanks for the update ! Looking forward to the next one ! I am glad i never lived where things rust that bad !
Awesome
Really nice work. I have the same model The front spring broke and in doing so cracked the engine oil pan. I was able to lift the engine and replace the lowest two spring leaves. A real pain withe the engine in place At this point it would be easy to magnaflux the leaves or replace they are a common size with no bending required. I am dealing with the cracked oil pan by adding oil but what a mess
Amazing...
You are making good progress. I wouldn't worry about the safety thing by the spring unless it gave you more piece of mind.