Thank you so much. Just took my 2010 on a 2500 mi road trip and noticed a funny idle. Figured this was as good of a place as any to start checking. Now it should be a breeze.
Very nice video. Master mechanic of 15 iii here and I only have one suggestion. Never ever use anti seize on Subaru because they are not designed for it, not only will it cause a misfire it will allow the plug to be tightened to far.
EDIT: It appears you jack the car up by the oil pan... I'm sure you didn't but just in case someone does: DONT. There is no reason why this video shouldn't have as many views as there are surviving foresters. Perfectly clear, concise and straightforward guide. Thanks for covering the extras like explaining WHY people shouldn't necessarily jump to going a step colder. Saved me a full weekend of head/heart-ache!
@@DIYEVERYTHING I does really look like you had your jack under the oil pan. I'm about to do this job for the first time, and I'm wondering if you could describe where on the bell housing I should put my jack if I need to lift the engine a bit.
good vid. question. the head guard on drivers side above the spark plugs. How do you get it off as it gets in the way of the vvt solenoid and bajo bolt.
I belive you're talking about the cover over the injectors. There are a couple 10 or 12mm bolts that hold it on. One they are removed you can wiggle it out with some patience. If you leave it off, be sure to put the bolts back. If I remember correctly, one has a couple ground wires on it.
@@DIYEVERYTHING thanks, you are right. further digging ID'd it as the injector guard. (and its a pig to get off). It looks like just a protective guard. None of the video's I have watched actually have it on the block any more. I guess no-one wanted to go through the frustration of putting it back on, given how 'easy' it is to get off. 🙂
That doesn’t look the same as my EJ20 (‘98 Forester SF). My air filter is under the windscreen and my spark plugs are accessible without lifting the engine. They’re also at a slight angle upwards, whereas yours look more horizontal 🤔
Sounds like you have a naturally aspirated EJ20 which has single cam heads, correct? This is a dual cam turbo model so the steps may be slightly different but still very similar. Also, I believe the factory engine for a 98 Forester SF should have been an EJ25.
I'm curious why you didn't use anti seize on the plug thread? I noticed how much difficulty you were having when trying to break the plug loose for removal. If you use anti seize you won't have that issue next time you do a plug chane
zinc plated plugs say not to use anti-seize. Plus, it could cause you to over torque the plug and cause other issues. Direct from NGKs website: "NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. ... Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage."
All I had to do was unbolt the motor mount to subframe connection and raised it about an inch or two. Sometimes there can be a bit of a struggle to set it back in place because of the bolt and alignment pin both needing to drop in place.
Minor difference but the motor itself is the same and would follow the same procedure regardless of what and where other items are located or may need to be removed like a windshield washer tank on an 04 or an air pump on an 06.
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Thank you so much. Just took my 2010 on a 2500 mi road trip and noticed a funny idle. Figured this was as good of a place as any to start checking. Now it should be a breeze.
Glad it helped
Very nice video.
Master mechanic of 15 iii here and I only have one suggestion.
Never ever use anti seize on Subaru because they are not designed for it, not only will it cause a misfire it will allow the plug to be tightened to far.
(2008 Subaru Legacy spec b semi closed deck fully built)
And when the plug manufacturer clearly states in their instructions not to use antiseize...
EDIT: It appears you jack the car up by the oil pan... I'm sure you didn't but just in case someone does: DONT.
There is no reason why this video shouldn't have as many views as there are surviving foresters. Perfectly clear, concise and straightforward guide. Thanks for covering the extras like explaining WHY people shouldn't necessarily jump to going a step colder.
Saved me a full weekend of head/heart-ache!
Thanks, probably wasn't clear but I jacked the motor up at the bell housing just behind the oil pan.
he did loosen the motor mounts and with a wooden block he jacked the engine up a few inches.
@@DIYEVERYTHING I does really look like you had your jack under the oil pan. I'm about to do this job for the first time, and I'm wondering if you could describe where on the bell housing I should put my jack if I need to lift the engine a bit.
Very informative! Love the vids. Doing alot of the same mods so its a great resource! Shes a beautiful XT by the way 👍
Thank you, I've got more planned when the weather gets better.
Thank you so much!
You're welcome
good vid.
question. the head guard on drivers side above the spark plugs. How do you get it off as it gets in the way of the vvt solenoid and bajo bolt.
I belive you're talking about the cover over the injectors. There are a couple 10 or 12mm bolts that hold it on. One they are removed you can wiggle it out with some patience. If you leave it off, be sure to put the bolts back. If I remember correctly, one has a couple ground wires on it.
@@DIYEVERYTHING thanks, you are right. further digging ID'd it as the injector guard. (and its a pig to get off). It looks like just a protective guard. None of the video's I have watched actually have it on the block any more. I guess no-one wanted to go through the frustration of putting it back on, given how 'easy' it is to get off. 🙂
We just want to know where the plugs are
Deep down inside.
That doesn’t look the same as my EJ20 (‘98 Forester SF). My air filter is under the windscreen and my spark plugs are accessible without lifting the engine. They’re also at a slight angle upwards, whereas yours look more horizontal 🤔
Sounds like you have a naturally aspirated EJ20 which has single cam heads, correct? This is a dual cam turbo model so the steps may be slightly different but still very similar. Also, I believe the factory engine for a 98 Forester SF should have been an EJ25.
I'm curious why you didn't use anti seize on the plug thread? I noticed how much difficulty you were having when trying to break the plug loose for removal. If you use anti seize you won't have that issue next time you do a plug chane
zinc plated plugs say not to use anti-seize. Plus, it could cause you to over torque the plug and cause other issues.
Direct from NGKs website:
"NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. ... Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage."
Hey bro if u jack up the engine did u have to remove any mounts or did u just jack it straight up.
All I had to do was unbolt the motor mount to subframe connection and raised it about an inch or two. Sometimes there can be a bit of a struggle to set it back in place because of the bolt and alignment pin both needing to drop in place.
@@DIYEVERYTHING shot bro thanks.
My subaru forester 2008 delay when i stop and moveing off
??
Maybe add the vehicle year to the title, it looks much different than our 2009 FXT. No abs, fuse box different.....
Minor difference but the motor itself is the same and would follow the same procedure regardless of what and where other items are located or may need to be removed like a windshield washer tank on an 04 or an air pump on an 06.
is not the same as the XT 2008
Is that a question or a statement? The 08 Forester xt will run the same spark plugs as any other turbo ej.
@@DIYEVERYTHING more things to remove
More or less things to remove in the engine bay doesn't alter the fundamentals of the ej engine or replacement of the plugs themselves.