Nice job, especially considering that you don't have a workshop. Here are a few tips: 1. Old, used hammers, unlike many other old tools, tell you exactly their quality. If the steel is too soft it will be mushroomed, if it is too hard it will be chipped. Unless you can re-heat treat, the result will not be worth the effort for tool you will actually use. 2. Never leave an abrupt shoulder where the handle enters the eye. This is equivalent to telling the tool where you want it to break, because all the forces will be concentrated at that point. Make a long tapir into the eye, leaving the forces spread out, and it won't know where to break, so it won't. Sure, I'm anthropomorphising, but the point is valid. 3. The spokeshave was very dull. The work would have been much easier with a sharp tool. Also, work the tool "downhill" with respect to the grain (the fibers) of the wood. 4. I couldn't identify the wood you used, but it didn't look like a good wood for a tool handle. If possible, go for a strong, springy wood. Hickory is generally considered best, but ash and others are also serviceable. But anyhow, it was your first hammer and you were learning. Keep up the good work, and have fun with your next one!
That's very helpful and informative! Will take note of the points..for point 4, I'm not sure what is the wood too..got from a local hardware shop, it's for axes handle
@@theymaker125 Well if it's good for axe handles, which is a very stressful application, it should be fine for a hammer handle. By the way, you can still carve down the wood near the eye to a pleasing taper; you just have to be careful not to hit the steel with your tools. Good luck!
I think you should listen to this guy, he knows what is he talking about. The only added advice that I can give is keep practicing and never listen to a negative comments. My first restoration was not even close to yours. So, keep up the good work and good luck.
That is a monster of a hammer!!! Nice job, although I like shapinf the “ears” of the head into the handle, for added contact a and a more natrual transition. Just a thought for some of your next Projects!! Best of lucks!!
lovely job, hope you are going to use it, as Martin says taper the handle as it goes into the eye, much stronger! Like me you seem to enjoy restoring anything, I've just finished a very old, very small Stanley pin hammer. Love your work, subscribed!
Looks good but at 7:38 you're definitely gonna need a bigger torch theres no way a small handheld lighter torch will bring it up to temp to its bluing stage
The Y Maker you should look for the map gas ones they’re in a yellow bottle, map gas heats up faster than butane and propane or the kitchen butane ones are decent too otherwise
Oh! This is the question i always wanted to ask about the kitchen gas..so that's butane gas as you mentioned? Can i attach a blow torch and use that to heat up metal?
The Y Maker yes you can however it won’t be nearly as fast and easy as using propane or map gas, for larger objects you would need map gas or an oxy acetylene torch however for small stuff like in the video butane with a kitchen blowtorch should work just fine. Also when you’re quenching in oil I find that used motor oil works great and will leave a nice dark finish, unless it’s for food then probably use olive oil or any food oil
Wow you saved that one. Great job on the metal. That "R" still showing would really bother me however. Handle is not very eye pleasing, especially where the wood meets the metal. I've found that commercially made replacement handles are often better looking, made with better wood, and save a lot of time. Liked and subscribed
Thanks for the support! Ya the handle should have a stress relief curve instead of that step.. you can watch the later sledgehammer video that was uploaded, it has a more proper handle 😉
Sweet work Y - awesome. Just me, but I might have filled that hammer head with wood putty, and then baked in an over at 150 degrees for an hour or two. Then I would have knocked the wood putty out of the hammer head, and used that as a "model" for my hammer handle (using precise measurements). That way you might have gotten a more precise fit with the hammer handle and hammer head. Anyhow, just a thought. Can't wait to see you next project! :-)
It's not the heat from the welding that left the "R". The welding filler mixed with the base metal and formed a new alloy. Since acid etching reacts a little differently with each alloy, you're basically highlighting where the metals differ. This polishing and acid etching is the main method welders use to test weld penetration. Heat treating the head won't change the alloy, so it won't change the etching results. If you want to banish the "R", you're going to have to cover the hammer's head with a uniform alloy - perhaps by electroplating.
This is a conflict within me..lol ot would look like a hammer collextion if only for hammer which is cool..but i would like to number all my restored item too..what do you think? 😊
It might be difficult finding a spot on some tools to place a number. Maybe only put numbers on handles that are made. Handles can be for hammers, axes, chisels, knives, draw knives, yard tools, exc.
A little advice: Watch Scoutcrafter on TH-cam. His presentations are very professional. People like seeing and hearing the one doing the work. It makes it personal. You would have a special niche. To the best of my knowledge, there is not another woman producing professional videos on tool restoration. (I have a daughter who is good with her hands like you, so I guess you hit a few heart strings.) People could watch as your skill improves. I think you would have a good following.
Wear safety glasses if and when you use it. Its hoghly likely the previous owner wasn't aware of how bad it is to weld on tempered and hardened steel but. The interesting thing is about it was how the weld showed even after you ground and polished it. Its like a whole new way of doing a demascus appearance
Hi, even if I don't know what your name is, I wish you well for your new TH-cam channel. I follow other restorers and I believe that you too are a professional, I know that you love this job as much as you love life. A hug ... Nino
Thanks my friend.. I'm no professional, i learn from online resources as well and in the videos are all my first time doing that.. so you can see how my skills grow along the way.. hope that there's improvement😊
and then I can safely say that you are well on your way to becoming a professional and the channel will give you satisfaction as to the number of subscribers and views. You still haven't told me your name :)
Nice job, especially considering that you don't have a workshop. Here are a few tips:
1. Old, used hammers, unlike many other old tools, tell you exactly their quality. If the steel is too soft it will be mushroomed, if it is too hard it will be chipped. Unless you can re-heat treat, the result will not be worth the effort for tool you will actually use.
2. Never leave an abrupt shoulder where the handle enters the eye. This is equivalent to telling the tool where you want it to break, because all the forces will be concentrated at that point. Make a long tapir into the eye, leaving the forces spread out, and it won't know where to break, so it won't. Sure, I'm anthropomorphising, but the point is valid.
3. The spokeshave was very dull. The work would have been much easier with a sharp tool. Also, work the tool "downhill" with respect to the grain (the fibers) of the wood.
4. I couldn't identify the wood you used, but it didn't look like a good wood for a tool handle. If possible, go for a strong, springy wood. Hickory is generally considered best, but ash and others are also serviceable.
But anyhow, it was your first hammer and you were learning. Keep up the good work, and have fun with your next one!
That's very helpful and informative! Will take note of the points..for point 4, I'm not sure what is the wood too..got from a local hardware shop, it's for axes handle
@@theymaker125 Well if it's good for axe handles, which is a very stressful application, it should be fine for a hammer handle. By the way, you can still carve down the wood near the eye to a pleasing taper; you just have to be careful not to hit the steel with your tools.
Good luck!
@@MartinMMeiss-mj6li Sure! Thanks 😁😁
I think you should listen to this guy, he knows what is he talking about. The only added advice that I can give is keep practicing and never listen to a negative comments. My first restoration was not even close to yours. So, keep up the good work and good luck.
The shadow of the r is the old and yours is the new . So out with the old in with the new great job
Ya, unexpectedly turned out that way 😄
Very nice work!
Thanks 😊
That is a monster of a hammer!!! Nice job, although I like shapinf the “ears” of the head into the handle, for added contact a and a more natrual transition. Just a thought for some of your next Projects!! Best of lucks!!
Hey thanks 😊
Nice job Yuhn..
Thanks Alvin!! 😁😁
lovely job, hope you are going to use it, as Martin says taper the handle as it goes into the eye, much stronger! Like me you seem to enjoy restoring anything, I've just finished a very old, very small Stanley pin hammer. Love your work, subscribed!
Thanks Paul! Enjoy your restoration work too 😊
Very nice restoration TYM, a beautiful mirror finish and a very nice new handle.
Thanks my friend😊
Nice job! The R was calling to me though.
Thanks! 😊 is R an intial for you too?
@@theymaker125 yes, late husband Robert. Thanks!!
Great video ..!!
Thanks😊
Looks good but at 7:38 you're definitely gonna need a bigger torch theres no way a small handheld lighter torch will bring it up to temp to its bluing stage
Thanks for the advice..definitely in need of a proper torch😊
The Y Maker you should look for the map gas ones they’re in a yellow bottle, map gas heats up faster than butane and propane or the kitchen butane ones are decent too otherwise
Oh! This is the question i always wanted to ask about the kitchen gas..so that's butane gas as you mentioned? Can i attach a blow torch and use that to heat up metal?
The Y Maker yes you can however it won’t be nearly as fast and easy as using propane or map gas, for larger objects you would need map gas or an oxy acetylene torch however for small stuff like in the video butane with a kitchen blowtorch should work just fine. Also when you’re quenching in oil I find that used motor oil works great and will leave a nice dark finish, unless it’s for food then probably use olive oil or any food oil
@@haydenyeap2818 this is very helpful! Thanks for the information 😊
Wow you saved that one. Great job on the metal. That "R" still showing would really bother me however. Handle is not very eye pleasing, especially where the wood meets the metal. I've found that commercially made replacement handles are often better looking, made with better wood, and save a lot of time. Liked and subscribed
Thanks for the support! Ya the handle should have a stress relief curve instead of that step.. you can watch the later sledgehammer video that was uploaded, it has a more proper handle 😉
Love the channel. But why dont use Dremel ?
I already had one with diff brand.. same function 😊
Sweet work Y - awesome. Just me, but I might have filled that hammer head with wood putty, and then baked in an over at 150 degrees for an hour or two. Then I would have knocked the wood putty out of the hammer head, and used that as a "model" for my hammer handle (using precise measurements). That way you might have gotten a more precise fit with the hammer handle and hammer head.
Anyhow, just a thought. Can't wait to see you next project! :-)
Oh ya, that's a brilliant idea! Never seen one use that trick before..thanks for the idea! 😁
Keep up the good work! ;)
Thanks! 😊
It's not the heat from the welding that left the "R". The welding filler mixed with the base metal and formed a new alloy. Since acid etching reacts a little differently with each alloy, you're basically highlighting where the metals differ. This polishing and acid etching is the main method welders use to test weld penetration. Heat treating the head won't change the alloy, so it won't change the etching results. If you want to banish the "R", you're going to have to cover the hammer's head with a uniform alloy - perhaps by electroplating.
This is very helpful. Thanks for the sharing!! 😊
Or remove more material, which is likely undesirable.
@@darichard11 ya, that's true.. removing material is the most unwanted situation.. but sometimes it's needed to achieve one's perspective results
Really nice job for your first hammer. Do you plan to number all of your restored tools similarly, or just number the hammers?
This is a conflict within me..lol ot would look like a hammer collextion if only for hammer which is cool..but i would like to number all my restored item too..what do you think? 😊
It might be difficult finding a spot on some tools to place a number. Maybe only put numbers on handles that are made. Handles can be for hammers, axes, chisels, knives, draw knives, yard tools, exc.
@@twinkytreeone1357 ya that's true 😊 thanks
Good start 🤩
Thanks! 😊
very cool
Thanks!
Maybie you should try making the handle a bit smaller.But still thick enough so that it doesn't break but to me that handle looks a bit off size
Ya..i shouldnt leave it shouldered..should smooth out the curve line.. let's try on the next project😊
A little advice: Watch Scoutcrafter on TH-cam. His presentations are very professional. People like seeing and hearing the one doing the work. It makes it personal. You would have a special niche. To the best of my knowledge, there is not another woman producing professional videos on tool restoration. (I have a daughter who is good with her hands like you, so I guess you hit a few heart strings.) People could watch as your skill improves. I think you would have a good following.
Thanks for the advise 😁 will try my best to work it out😁
Super work....!!! Super Video!!! loved to watch :-))
Thanks😊
Looks really good :)
Thanks 😊
Nice job..
Thanks!
Awesome
Wear safety glasses if and when you use it. Its hoghly likely the previous owner wasn't aware of how bad it is to weld on tempered and hardened steel but. The interesting thing is about it was how the weld showed even after you ground and polished it. Its like a whole new way of doing a demascus appearance
The ghost of R wants you to know it’s their hammer first!
Ya! Creepy right?? 🤪
Congratulations :D
Hi, even if I don't know what your name is, I wish you well for your new TH-cam channel. I follow other restorers and I believe that you too are a professional, I know that you love this job as much as you love life. A hug ... Nino
Thanks my friend.. I'm no professional, i learn from online resources as well and in the videos are all my first time doing that.. so you can see how my skills grow along the way.. hope that there's improvement😊
and then I can safely say that you are well on your way to becoming a professional and the channel will give you satisfaction as to the number of subscribers and views. You still haven't told me your name :)
Y here 😊
excellent answer and sorry for my stupidity, I forgot that the chat is public :)
Y stands for your name?🤔🙂
Yep.. my initial 😊
Não é restauração mas sim uma reciclagem.
The R stands for Romeo! Haha
Then shall I hunt for a 'J' hammer as Juliet 🤣
AHAAAAAAA!!!
Even great woman make mistake,,,.
I make mistake everyday.
Haha 😄
I see you're a girl! This job with a girl is really hard. But you do great! congratulation :))
I come from 9gag :)
Hello where are you from?