Hello, I've just put in a brand new INA tensioner on bank 2 and rotated engine twice which is fine, however the NEW tensioner collapses once every 1/2 rotation, wtf! It fully entends out after wards in two movements. INA are the OEM Part with the audi 4 rings grinded off if you don't buy from audi. So I don't understand why. I do not have any oil in the engine at the moment as I dropped the sump to clean. Would no oil mean this would happen? However when you do a tensioner replacement all the oil pressure up top is gone anyway? Thanks in advance. I just don't want to reassemble and find out its faulty. Engine is in so this is a tough job to do twice.
@jamesturner2329 yeah it was fine. First start up was noisy for a few scary seconds then all went super quiet and smooth. No issue done 10k since and all perfect
Hello There was only 1 tensioner from the top engine which was really out of order? The 2 lower engine tensioners (crankshaft and oil pump) were ok? No broken plastic guide? I think I have the same problem on my Audi A6 V6 TFSI. When I listen through the stethoscope, I hear the click on the tensioner of the driver's side cylinder bench. And I don't have enough to get the engine out, I'm going to try to change the 2 tensioners on the top engine, removing the compressor before. I will block the camshafts and the crankshaft so that there is nothing offset during reassembly. Thank you in advance for your response to my questions.
The most common issues are the upper tensioners located st the back of the cylinder heads. You can attempt to replace just those but I would recommend it. The cam adjuster have to be removed to gain access to the 3 t30 torx bolts. If you drop anything inside your screwed lol . Plus why not just replace all the chains and guides . It's all up to what you want to do .
I have now completed repalcement of bank 2 tensioner and guide and vvt adjuster sprocket, I can confirm when hand cranking the NEW tensioner will retract!! BECAUSE THERE IS NO OIL INSIDE THE NEW ONE YET. AS SOON AS I STARTED IT FOR THE FIRST TIME IT FILLED AND EVERY START AFTER THAT IT'S QUIET AND DOESN'T COLLAPSE. SO IN CASE YOU FIT A NEW ONE AND IT DOES THIS DON'T WORRY IT WILL BE OK. 😅
@@theshoptopauto I used INA which is the OEM audi one but with the 4 rings grinded off. It is spring loaded and has a non return ball valve. If dry it will collapse, if oil filled it will hold. I hope I never have to do this job again what a PITA on the driveway. Lol
Need your advice as this is what I'll likely have to do. Did you do in car? I have no way to remove engines@@LAW-Automotive And you only replaced Bank 2 DS? I don't want to have to replaced both as it seems like bank 1 requires removing the emission control module and cat as well. They had to put two on these cars. Geezz!
@@mk_ultrarunner I did bank 2 only and yes in car. Unbolt cat from manifold, remove sai valve, remove black cover to expose top timing chain, sprockets and tensioner. Remove cam covers both sides, rotate engine to line up timing marks, install cam locking tools. Now you can remove what's needed and replace. Whats your fault codes. What is your issue?
@@LAW-Automotivethe only code I get right now is a P052E which is the PCV Regulator Valve and I already know that’s another common issue and huge ordeal in itself in replacing. I get the cold start chatter on the timing chain for 1-2 sec until oil is primed into upper tensioner. Read in a TSB that it won’t cause damage. Yeah I and believe that. 🤦🏻♂️ So t while I could ride it out, it doesn’t sound like it’s a good thing. My oils has dropped about 1/4 from when I changed it about 1,800 miles ago. So I’m not losing a lot and know supercharged engine will burn oil. Audi manual says 1QT every 500 miles is normal. But I wonder if I top off will it help. I don’t remember it sounding like that when it was full. Plus I’m using 5W-30 not 5w-40. I’ll switch around 5,000 miles.
@joevarga5982 Yes, I know that. This is a common failure on the engines and cause ratting at stsrtup ... also, why is the other side holding tension? There is a spring inside thats supposed to hold the piston against the guide and keep it under tension....
@@theshoptopauto "also, why is the other side holding tension?" Maybe an oil pressure check valve failed. "There is a spring inside thats supposed to hold the piston against the guide and keep it under tension...." Maybe the spring broke. So, what did you find?
@joevarga5982 just a shitty designed tensioner, I don't remember exactly what failed on this one. I'm pretty sure it was a worn out tensioner spring as well as the piston . But the spring inside is supposed to keep the tension on the chain regardless if it has oil pressure or not. The passenger side squirted all the oil out of the tensioner while the motor is spun by hand and still held tension...
I made a video on how to time this motor but lost all footage I apologize. If you have the timing tool you have to lock the cams , cranks and center balance . Once you do that you want to mark the chains and gears with a marker. Made my life easier . But If you don't mark it its fine. Always remember that the chain needs to have some slack on the tensioner side and opposite side of the tensioners the chain has to be as tight as you can get it .
Thanks for the vid! I was driving on the hwy yesterday and downshifted my B8 S4 2012 using the paddle, when I accelerated it chugged and stalled. Luckily, I was exiting the ramp and was able to coast off. When I stopped I restarted but heard an engine rattle when accelerating around 1500 rpm. I parked it, opened the hood and reved the engine and heard it again...seems like the sound was coming from the center block...possibly the timing chain tensioner? Need to bring it in tomorrow, just bought it 3 weeks ago.
The chain tensioner failing wouldn't cause a stalling issue while driving. The tensioner still operates under oil pressure so camshaft timing will still be in sync with crank. Your issue may be rod knock . Worse rod bearings and at 1500 rpms causing the knocking/- rattling. I only say that because you said it stalled on you after a downshift. Was oil level correct ? Who did you purchase it from ? Private person or used car dealer ?
The more I research this and watch other videos they all do that on bank 2, the bank 1 tensioner is different design and precedes the exhaust sprocket, bank 2 preceeds the vvt adjuster sprocket. Maybe that's why? Mine had p0018 camshaft correlation no it correct code, the sound was burp burp burp and shake engine. I found my vvt sprocket was 1 tooth retarded. Now I've put be vvt and new tensioners and top guide. But new tensioner still compresses and then entends. I don't know now if that's a fault or normal. Maybe with engine running oil will hold it steady??? F my life
Hahahaha yeah definitely. It was actually pretty straightforward. As long as you have some experience in engine repairs I'm sure you'll be able to accomplish this 💪
Hello, I've just put in a brand new INA tensioner on bank 2 and rotated engine twice which is fine, however the NEW tensioner collapses once every 1/2 rotation, wtf! It fully entends out after wards in two movements. INA are the OEM Part with the audi 4 rings grinded off if you don't buy from audi. So I don't understand why. I do not have any oil in the engine at the moment as I dropped the sump to clean. Would no oil mean this would happen? However when you do a tensioner replacement all the oil pressure up top is gone anyway? Thanks in advance. I just don't want to reassemble and find out its faulty. Engine is in so this is a tough job to do twice.
Bout to start this job you got any updates or tips?
@jamesturner2329 yeah it was fine. First start up was noisy for a few scary seconds then all went super quiet and smooth. No issue done 10k since and all perfect
How much do average for cost of this job
Hello
There was only 1 tensioner from the top engine which was really out of order?
The 2 lower engine tensioners (crankshaft and oil pump) were ok?
No broken plastic guide?
I think I have the same problem on my Audi A6 V6 TFSI.
When I listen through the stethoscope, I hear the click on the tensioner of the driver's side cylinder bench.
And I don't have enough to get the engine out, I'm going to try to change the 2 tensioners on the top engine, removing the compressor before.
I will block the camshafts and the crankshaft so that there is nothing offset during reassembly.
Thank you in advance for your response to my questions.
The most common issues are the upper tensioners located st the back of the cylinder heads. You can attempt to replace just those but I would recommend it. The cam adjuster have to be removed to gain access to the 3 t30 torx bolts. If you drop anything inside your screwed lol . Plus why not just replace all the chains and guides . It's all up to what you want to do .
Do you have to replace both chain and tensioner or can you just replace the tensioner? Talking about upper left and right
I have now completed repalcement of bank 2 tensioner and guide and vvt adjuster sprocket, I can confirm when hand cranking the NEW tensioner will retract!! BECAUSE THERE IS NO OIL INSIDE THE NEW ONE YET. AS SOON AS I STARTED IT FOR THE FIRST TIME IT FILLED AND EVERY START AFTER THAT IT'S QUIET AND DOESN'T COLLAPSE. SO IN CASE YOU FIT A NEW ONE AND IT DOES THIS DON'T WORRY IT WILL BE OK. 😅
If you purchase the same style, it'll collapse. They have a upgraded version which has a spring inside and doesn't collapse.
@@theshoptopauto I used INA which is the OEM audi one but with the 4 rings grinded off. It is spring loaded and has a non return ball valve. If dry it will collapse, if oil filled it will hold. I hope I never have to do this job again what a PITA on the driveway. Lol
Need your advice as this is what I'll likely have to do. Did you do in car? I have no way to remove engines@@LAW-Automotive And you only replaced Bank 2 DS? I don't want to have to replaced both as it seems like bank 1 requires removing the emission control module and cat as well. They had to put two on these cars. Geezz!
@@mk_ultrarunner I did bank 2 only and yes in car. Unbolt cat from manifold, remove sai valve, remove black cover to expose top timing chain, sprockets and tensioner. Remove cam covers both sides, rotate engine to line up timing marks, install cam locking tools. Now you can remove what's needed and replace.
Whats your fault codes. What is your issue?
@@LAW-Automotivethe only code I get right now is a P052E which is the PCV Regulator Valve and I already know that’s another common issue and huge ordeal in itself in replacing. I get the cold start chatter on the timing chain for 1-2 sec until oil is primed into upper tensioner. Read in a TSB that it won’t cause damage. Yeah I and believe that. 🤦🏻♂️ So t while I could ride it out, it doesn’t sound like it’s a good thing. My oils has dropped about 1/4 from when I changed it about 1,800 miles ago. So I’m not losing a lot and know supercharged engine will burn oil. Audi manual says 1QT every 500 miles is normal. But I wonder if I top off will it help. I don’t remember it sounding like that when it was full. Plus I’m using 5W-30 not 5w-40. I’ll switch around 5,000 miles.
Are the reinforced tensioners for life??
The tensioners are operated with oil pressure. Without the engine running the tensioners do not necessarily press on the chain.
@joevarga5982 Yes, I know that. This is a common failure on the engines and cause ratting at stsrtup ... also, why is the other side holding tension? There is a spring inside thats supposed to hold the piston against the guide and keep it under tension....
@@theshoptopauto "also, why is the other side holding tension?"
Maybe an oil pressure check valve failed.
"There is a spring inside thats supposed to hold the piston against the guide and keep it under tension...."
Maybe the spring broke. So, what did you find?
@joevarga5982 just a shitty designed tensioner, I don't remember exactly what failed on this one. I'm pretty sure it was a worn out tensioner spring as well as the piston . But the spring inside is supposed to keep the tension on the chain regardless if it has oil pressure or not. The passenger side squirted all the oil out of the tensioner while the motor is spun by hand and still held tension...
@@theshoptopauto I see.
How do you time it? I replaced both tensioners but cannot get camshaft on bank two to line up for the locking mechanism. Help?
I made a video on how to time this motor but lost all footage I apologize.
If you have the timing tool you have to lock the cams , cranks and center balance . Once you do that you want to mark the chains and gears with a marker. Made my life easier . But If you don't mark it its fine. Always remember that the chain needs to have some slack on the tensioner side and opposite side of the tensioners the chain has to be as tight as you can get it .
@@theshoptopauto Do I continue to crank motor until the cam lines up with the locking tool?
@@mannyrodriguez3556 cylinder 1 has to be on top dead center in order for the locking tools to fit
Where are you located
Thanks for the vid! I was driving on the hwy yesterday and downshifted my B8 S4 2012 using the paddle, when I accelerated it chugged and stalled. Luckily, I was exiting the ramp and was able to coast off. When I stopped I restarted but heard an engine rattle when accelerating around 1500 rpm. I parked it, opened the hood and reved the engine and heard it again...seems like the sound was coming from the center block...possibly the timing chain tensioner? Need to bring it in tomorrow, just bought it 3 weeks ago.
The chain tensioner failing wouldn't cause a stalling issue while driving. The tensioner still operates under oil pressure so camshaft timing will still be in sync with crank. Your issue may be rod knock . Worse rod bearings and at 1500 rpms causing the knocking/- rattling. I only say that because you said it stalled on you after a downshift. Was oil level correct ? Who did you purchase it from ? Private person or used car dealer ?
@@theshoptopauto Used car dealer a few hours away. Was driving fine until that happened.
@@figleafyogi oh man. Well hopefully is something stupid and won't need a new _ used motor 😬
@@theshoptopauto Oil level is a centimeter or two below max
@@theshoptopauto the dealership is searching for a used engine.
The more I research this and watch other videos they all do that on bank 2, the bank 1 tensioner is different design and precedes the exhaust sprocket, bank 2 preceeds the vvt adjuster sprocket. Maybe that's why?
Mine had p0018 camshaft correlation no it correct code, the sound was burp burp burp and shake engine. I found my vvt sprocket was 1 tooth retarded. Now I've put be vvt and new tensioners and top guide. But new tensioner still compresses and then entends. I don't know now if that's a fault or normal. Maybe with engine running oil will hold it steady??? F my life
Hey did this fix your issue? Im having P0018 & P0016 codes on my 15' S4
@FriendsNFilms th-cam.com/video/TG9_HTqnQ2M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kSLBwXSIf0n6fMCi
Can you do mine? 😂
Hahahaha yeah definitely. It was actually pretty straightforward. As long as you have some experience in engine repairs I'm sure you'll be able to accomplish this 💪
Hey I bought this car off mark do you have instagram I wanna get more work done and mark said to hit you up
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