Im pretty sure if you look at any washer it will have one side that looks rounded and one that looks sharp. This is because dozens of them are stamped out of a single sheet of metal all at once. They arent individually machined from a pipe. If you apply the propper torque and make sure you have removed the old washer it shouldnt matter.
Yes. Keep it to the point Sorry to say that but when I want to watch educational video to help me fix something, I am not interested of what the video maker had for breakfast, his dog favorite treats, etc. there are so many Vlogs for that which I watch in my dull time lol Short and sweet !!
Good video. Most people don’t know there are 2 different sides to these. I didn’t know and oil was seeping out a little then I looked it up and put a new one on the right way and now it’s sealed perfectly
I never knew that. I was trying to figure out why the mechanic installed was leaking. I’m not sure if he installed it the correct way or not but it was pretty much at the beginning of the threads.
@@Dnasty1 It’s always the threads in the oil pan, not the threads on the bolt. The pan is a softer material like Aluminum. Keep your eye on the oil level for the first few days and then once a week. Sometimes the bolt is hanging or biting to only couple of good threads and in due to, it starts to loose just a little but enough t to let oil out. Take care
@@tothepointvids5192 I installed the new plug myself it seemed to thread in fine over a lot of threads… it’s fairly long. When I examined the one my mechanic had installed it looked as though the crush washer went too far in on one point and was on the very top threads on both the bolt and the pan and that is where the oil was allowed to seep through. I hope he didn’t damage the pan it was such a slow leak I would have never know if I didn’t remove the cover underneath my car and happen to see it.
Awesome, thank you very much for the video, there is nothing on TH-cam that's specifically shows you the orientation of the crush washer Great job thank you very very much You are the man, I was doing it right the whole time thank God concave always goes towards the crankcase, been doing that with my bikes and cars thanks again bro take care
The side with a convex (bubble) should make contact with the oil pan or transmission pan, so that the ‘bubble’ side is crushed to fill any gaps to keep the pan from leaking! This video demonstrates how to use them! 😂 ❤
I really didn’t measure the thickness but generally speaking I don’t like thick plastic/rubber or soft material washer or gasket. They flex so much when they get heated and sometimes they need to be retorqued Now for the metal crush washer like our case here I’d say it depends on the deflection on your sealing area and since it will be crushed, it may be (empathize May ) ok to go with thicker one. Hope this answer help
I have tried to install this type of washer (copper) correctly and i ended having leaks. Replaced it with factory oem (aluminum) type and it stopped the leak. I guess this type of washer does not properly seal the bolt and the crank case.
Copper washers have higher shear strength and high density (generally speaking) than aluminum washers. Copper don’t deform easily at lower torque to accommodate for sealing surface imperfection. On the other hand Aluminum can seal better if sealing surface /gasket area is not super flat. Aluminum washers is preferred to be replaced every application. I say prefer because I have reused them before but again it depends on how bad the sealing surface is.
The “ best practice” makes difference in certain situations where dealing surfaces are not perfect. Not following “best practice” doesn’t means a failure every time. I just wanted to show that when you bolt a string steel bolt to aluminum or light steel oil pan, the crushable side need to go against the softer material which is the oil pan.
Seriously You stopped here, watched the video , learned/ found a small detail that you were looking for. So why didn’t you subscribe ? A legitimate question
I liked the video I gave a like. It is great that you take the time to try to explain this. I think you could have detailed the part number and which vehicle specific it was for. I use the ones with the blue silicone already layered into the washer per Genuine Toyota Parts - Gasket (90430-12031) Engine Oil drain plug: 27 ft-lbs torque for my 2003 Tacoma 5VZ-FE engine, though it fits many other models and years of Toyota.
Im pretty sure if you look at any washer it will have one side that looks rounded and one that looks sharp. This is because dozens of them are stamped out of a single sheet of metal all at once. They arent individually machined from a pipe. If you apply the propper torque and make sure you have removed the old washer it shouldnt matter.
Straight to the point great just the way I like it no BS thank you great video
Yes. Keep it to the point
Sorry to say that but when I want to watch educational video to help me fix something, I am not interested of what the video maker had for breakfast, his dog favorite treats, etc. there are so many Vlogs for that which I watch in my dull time lol
Short and sweet !!
@@tothepointvids5192 😂👍
If anyone is confused still;
Flat side washer touches drain plug
Round side washer touches drain pain
👍
Good video. Most people don’t know there are 2 different sides to these. I didn’t know and oil was seeping out a little then I looked it up and put a new one on the right way and now it’s sealed perfectly
Glad to help
Please like the video if you do like it
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Makes sense! Thanks for confirming this.
That was the longest explanation for the most simplest thing to show and explain...
All opinions are welcome. Thanks
I never knew that. I was trying to figure out why the mechanic installed was leaking. I’m not sure if he installed it the correct way or not but it was pretty much at the beginning of the threads.
Or it could be over tightened and threads damaged I mean there are multiple reasons
@@tothepointvids5192 yea my guess is he overtightened it. I took it off and the bolt is fine just pressed all the way to the threads.
@@Dnasty1
It’s always the threads in the oil pan, not the threads on the bolt. The pan is a softer material like Aluminum. Keep your eye on the oil level for the first few days and then once a week. Sometimes the bolt is hanging or biting to only couple of good threads and in due to, it starts to loose just a little but enough t to let oil out. Take care
@@tothepointvids5192 I installed the new plug myself it seemed to thread in fine over a lot of threads… it’s fairly long. When I examined the one my mechanic had installed it looked as though the crush washer went too far in on one point and was on the very top threads on both the bolt and the pan and that is where the oil was allowed to seep through. I hope he didn’t damage the pan it was such a slow leak I would have never know if I didn’t remove the cover underneath my car and happen to see it.
@@Dnasty1 monitoring is a key
Awesome, thank you very much for the video, there is nothing on TH-cam that's specifically shows you the orientation of the crush washer Great job thank you very very much You are the man, I was doing it right the whole time thank God concave always goes towards the crankcase, been doing that with my bikes and cars thanks again bro take care
You are most welcome !!!
I read that the shiny side is to go against the plug head. Dull side to go against the pan
The side with a convex (bubble) should make contact with the oil pan or transmission pan, so that the ‘bubble’ side is crushed to fill any gaps to keep the pan from leaking! This video demonstrates how to use them! 😂 ❤
There is no shiny or dull side. One side has a tapered edge (rounded) the other side is FLAT!
I couldn`t see the difference on what side goes up against the oil pan!
What's the best thickness to get, 1mm, 1.5, 2, or even 2.5mm crush washer?
I really didn’t measure the thickness but generally speaking I don’t like thick plastic/rubber or soft material washer or gasket. They flex so much when they get heated and sometimes they need to be retorqued
Now for the metal crush washer like our case here I’d say it depends on the deflection on your sealing area and since it will be crushed, it may be (empathize May ) ok to go with thicker one. Hope this answer help
I have tried to install this type of washer (copper) correctly and i ended having leaks. Replaced it with factory oem (aluminum) type and it stopped the leak. I guess this type of washer does not properly seal the bolt and the crank case.
Copper washers have higher shear strength and high density (generally speaking) than aluminum washers. Copper don’t deform easily at lower torque to accommodate for sealing surface imperfection. On the other hand Aluminum can seal better if sealing surface /gasket area is not super flat. Aluminum washers is preferred to be replaced every application. I say prefer because I have reused them before but again it depends on how bad the sealing surface is.
kindly share /like the video, subscribe to the channel. Thanks
I put some of mine in the wrong way - hopefully they are ok.
My Audi A5 was dripping just enuff that I had to park in on the street. Finally I just used J B weld to lock it into place. It works great.
@@danrook5757what? I don't think you should be using jb weld if it's leaking. You should unplug and redo it again.
Thank you.
Thank you!
Thank you
Thanks and good to know
So the FLAT side faces down. Rounded side faces same direction of the bolt?
Crushable side goes against the pan face. The flat on the bolt underside of the head. Same as I showed in the video
@@tothepointvids5192 Got it. I just wanted to clarify. First time dealing with crush washers. Thanks for the vid
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good explanation
The “ best practice” makes difference in certain situations where dealing surfaces are not perfect. Not following “best practice” doesn’t means a failure every time. I just wanted to show that when you bolt a string steel bolt to aluminum or light steel oil pan, the crushable side need to go against the softer material which is the oil pan.
Seriously
You stopped here, watched the video , learned/ found a small detail that you were looking for. So why didn’t you subscribe ? A legitimate question
I liked the video I gave a like. It is great that you take the time to try to explain this. I think you could have detailed the part number and which vehicle specific it was for. I use the ones with the blue silicone already layered into the washer per Genuine Toyota Parts - Gasket (90430-12031) Engine Oil drain plug: 27 ft-lbs torque for my 2003 Tacoma 5VZ-FE engine, though it fits many other models and years of Toyota.