How to make shaker style doors in just a few minutes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2024
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As we are a wardrobe making and furniture making company, we need to make lots of shaker style doors.
This youtube video teaches you a really quick, easy and cheap way of making shaker style doors in a matter of minutes.
Using 18mm and 3mm MDF and 2 part spray glue you can easily construct a shaker style door within 5 minutes.
Watch the whole video to find out all the trade secrets!
Enjoy
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![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](/img/tr.png)
Best video I've seen for the layman or woman who needs EASY! Thanks!
That's great to hear! Thank you !
I've been a carpenter for 40 years (retired now) and would never have tried this before. Damn, I can't believe how well it works, I used Miter Bond (available in Canada), it gave me about 8-10 seconds of working time so no problem lining things up. Thanks for the video.
It's great isn't it!
I use it all the time for trims too etc
Thanks for the great comment 😁
Thank you for this simple tutorial! I don’t have a table saw yet so it was difficult to find one that didn’t need one! Heading to my home store today to try this out on a wall cabinet that needs doors. 😊
You are welcome :-)
Good demonstration! If you have a table saw, a good way to get perfect edges is to make the doors 2mm oversize and trimming 1mm off each side once glued together
Great tip👍👍
Really digging the JT running in the background. Thanks for the easy guide, mate.
Thank u 😁
Oh dang lol. I do mine almost just like this. I never seen anyone else do it before. Well done!
Great idea. I’ve not seen this way of doing shaker style panels. Done this on my latest project and it’s working out well. Used 6mm MDF to make the styles and rails. Definite thumbs up from me
Thanks very much 👍
Mate, you’re a genius.
Haha it's quick and simple isn't it? 😁
I was doin this to mdf doors 20yrs ago.. regular wood glue works good.no need in using mitre bond..only use mitre bond for crown molding.
Thanks for the vid. I had some very basic wardrobes made and thought I could shaker them up easy myself. Well now I believe I can! Great explanation. Cheers
Your welcome, really glad its helped 😁😁
For those interested have a look at Peter Millard and why he doesn't make them this way any more... Useful comparison with an excellent explanation
brilliant!
Ahh thank you very much 👍👍
I’ve just picked up a job to box in a boiler needs 2 doors. Been thinking how I could make them look a bit better rather than just being plane. This is awesome. And that mitre stuff is epic. Use it a lot. First time I used it I didn’t know how strong it actually is and didn’t quite fix the 2 bits I was glueing in the right place....well they weren’t moving haha. It’s good stuff
Great vid by far the best vid for a novice like myself.
Brilliant idea. can't believe your the only person on here it seems that has done it, having a go at it this week! Hopefully will save me a fortune on new Howdens doors. Should get a great finish with the paint on this hard mdf
It's a really easy way for to make faux shaker doors just use enough of the glue part , don't skimp 👍
Watched many videos on how to make these types of doors and hands down these beats them all. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Nice method. Thanks for sharing. One thing I would recommend is edge band the sides so no blending in seams. Also perhaps use 1/2 mdf then 1/4 so you have a standard 3/4 door.
1/2 mdf in what mm?
@chrbx13 1/2 inch equals 12mm 👍
I never thought about doing it that way. I was going to do tongue and groove shaker doors but i think i will try this method. Thank you!!!
+Todd Ferrell you get the same results if not better, as the door is made from a solid piece of mdf so unlikely to bow/warp or twist like traditional methods.
😀
I want to reface my kitchen cabinets. I think i will try this method. However i will try using a nice plywood
+Todd Ferrell yep maybe birch ply.
The birch ply has been working out really well!
+Todd Ferrell
That's great, birch ply is really nice!
Especially with an osmo oil finish
I build a shaker style cabinet door with zero joinery like you do. But I cut the hole in the 3/4” MDF and then rabbet for a 1/2” panel. Yes it takes slightly longer then your method but it eliminates the side seam. But the biggest benefit with my method is when hanging the doors. Using euro hinges, I Hang the doors before the panels are installed. I simply hold the door in position, reach right thru it, and screw the hinges in place. Almost zero adjustment needed. The last thing I do is install the panel. This can be done with the door still in place.
Instead of putting the two stiles on first and fitting the rails in and having to fill the gaps with a wallboard filler, try gluing a stile followed by the two rails, then perfectly fitting the last stile for a seamless front. Less touch up and a much smoother finish.
Enjoy!
+Jeff Babski
Great idea, thanks Jeff!
What's a stile?
The side parts of the borders/the vertical parts.
The horizontal pieces are rails
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop ty
@@margote8072 the sides of the door as it opens and closes. The top and bottom are rails when you add molding to it.
Great video! Used your exact (ish) method on some old horrible mdf wardrobes and they've turned out great. Made some errors but fixed easily sanding the edges, and that 2 part glue saved me so much time! Thanks mate 👍
Have you considered finding a local shop that has a CNC and have them make all your shaker doors? You could work out a deal where they dont sand or finish them, just buy them fresh out of the CNC. Since then all they would have to do is punch the numbers into the cnc and zero labour. That way you should be able to keep the price low (pay them maybe 2x the cost of material used). So it might end up being cheaper than making them yourself if you factor in the time it takes to make them
great...no expensive and special machines!
Thank you👍👍
Fan-effing-tastic! Thanks a lot 👍
Thank you 😊👍👌
So easy! Going to try this on my ugly old kitchen doors
thanks for the video mate
You're welcome 👍
Thank you for this well-explained video. As a woman, i've always been interested in wood-working projects and i decided to do my cabinets as shaker cabinets, but all the videos i've watched are so complicated because i'm limited to the tools i have, but yours is right up my alley and i'm definitely going to try and do it myself. May i ask how wide and thick your rails are? My doors are 1/2" thick, so i don't want too thick of a piece of rail or they'll look too clunky and too heavy.
Hi, thats good to hear.
If you have a 12mm panel then I'd add 6mm stiles and rails, giving you 18mm doors which works with concealed hinged.
I wouldn't make the doors thicker than 18-20mm as the concealed hinged are really only designed to work with doors up to the thickness ( some hinges may allow up to 25mm)
Genius!
Hi, I used the same method a while ago for some wall panelling in a customers hallway. I used 9mm mdf for the rails/stiles. I had some real issues with evo stick mitre adhesive not taking to the mdf and had to resort to screws and glue which then had to be filled etc. So I will give the ever build a go! Cheers
+Diddy Wright
Just make sure you spray enough spray and 2 part glue, wait for the spray to evaporate before before pressing 2 parts together, and then press down for long enough for the glues to do their thing.
That's all ibthink it could be unless the glue your using isn't very good!
+Diddy Wright
Try mitre fast from tool station as that's what I always use and never fails
Yeah did all that mate and had never had an issue before until I used it on that project but will definitely give the ever build a go
+Diddy Wright
That's a shame, and annoying!
Cool, hope it works for you 😀
Diddy; how old was your glue! I had similar problems and it turned out to be a fasctor of oldish glue and very pourous 9mm mdf - I revered back to Titebond 3 for that project. Now I buy the toolstation pack for every new project and it has not failed me since. Just a thought
do you trim after gluing? does the glue line show after painting? good video thanx rick
Thanks!
It depends how good you get the edge.
Best results would be to trim after.
If you watch my vids on sanding mdf edges, you'll see how I finish end grain, including jointed components. The lines don't show through with this
Great job.. What does the spray do? And which glue did you use?
Thanks!
Its a 2 part glue, a spray and the liquid glue.
The spray sets the liquid glue in about 5 seconds.
Most are called mitre bond, but this one is mitre fast
Ryan
Thanks for the video, looking to make some large wardrobe doors approx 2000m x 755) in the mock shaker style. Which will have a mirror glued in the centre. Do you think gluing to the front will warp the MDF?
Great video thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Danny, I'm glad its helped you
Ryan
And there was I thinking craftsmanship was dead and gone.....MFI is dead , Long Live MFI!!!!!!
Easiest I've seen yet
Thank you so very much for sharing! Love it!
Your welcome I'm glad it has helped 😀
Would normal wood glue and maybe pins be ok? I’ve used the mitre glue before and although it’s fantastic if your out by a mm the door is ruined 😩it’s not moving to be replaced
Great video cheers 👍
Thank you
We do the same method but we pva glue and clamp opposed to mitre mate
Can u share how you make a J pull finger pull door and how you can vinyl wrap it plsss
Hi I havent had any experince with wrapping doors.
Ryan
a steady hand, you could also do some part time at surgery !! :)
How well will this last though? I'm a site carpenter and I always thought mitre bond was quite brittle, meaning it sticks good and fast but can break off fairly easily (unlike wood glue). Also if your not glueing the entire surface wont all the paint crack once the heating goes on?
Hi, sorry haven’t the time to read through the comments so answer maybe there but you say 3mm thick but what width would you recommend ? It looked about 100mm
Can i use a usual white wood glue?
you can but you will need to pin the strips. See my newest vid on shaker doors.
Nice work. Just wondering if you've ever tried, or thought about, not filling in the joins and seeing some sort of line between the rails and stiles would make it look more like authentic joinery?
Hi Kyle, I actually do it this way.
This video is a good few years old and changed my technique to what you mentioned soon after making this 👍👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop One more question, do you use that small router bit on the doors like you do on the big panels?
@@peterpumpkineater6958 hi yes
Can I start by saying I love your work and the fact you are happy to share and show people how you do what you do.
I have a few questions please. First would any jointing filler be ok? Or is the one you use the best you have tried? Is that due to it dries in hours rather than over night like most?
Also with your airless sprayer is there a reason why you went for Graco over a Wagner one?
As I am looking at getting one for the work I do but the Graco’s are at least double the ££££
Thanks again,
Marc
Thanks Marc! Tbh most ready mixed fillers will do the job, I use a fine filler from toolstation and it works perfectly well.
Re the sprayers I just like the build quality of the graco. I'd just say buy which ever one you feel is best for you and your budget. Maybe do some research on the best budget airless
Graco do the gx21 which seems like a good small sprayer
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thank you for the advice. I am stuck between the new Wagner power paint 90 extra as it is being sold at the moment with a lot of extra kit as a promo and the graco gx21 you recommended.
Genies
Great video , what width do u cut the 3mm mdf thanks
Hi can you tell me please what depth thickness is the mdf you have used? Im looking to add a similar effect onto my exsisting flat fronted kitchen doors so it needs to be fairly light (but easy to cut not too floopy - amatuer ;o) great video!
Hi I now use 12mm panel with 6mm strips.
Works really well and easier to glue the strips on as they are more rigid than using 3mm strips
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Thanks that really helpful great content!
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop would you recommend 12mm and 6mm for full height doors too ? Thanks
Hi yes, that's what we do atm 👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thanks very much 👍
Me gustó mucho el trabajo. Cuales serían las medidas de espesor del triplay mdf?. 1/2" y la moldura 1/4"...?
That would work
What is the name of the glueThanks
You can use mitre fast ot mitre bond or any of those 2 part glues. 👍
Dang I was hoping you’d go over how you finish the sides to avoid the double layer being visible. Am considering this as an option for some inset cabinets but can’t figure out how to finish the edges without building a frame which kinda depletes the point of doin it this way...
Hi Jessica,
This video will show you exactly what to do.
Just treat the doors like any other components and stack them up like you see in the video.
th-cam.com/video/MRA2znS5Nhg/w-d-xo.html
Let me know of the link works.
Thanks Ryan
Yes thats perfect, thank u!
1 question: Any reason you don’t use a high solids trowel wood filler for the filling step vs patch, or is it just personal preference?
@@Snail_Nailz
Great!
It's just a nice simple filler to use, 2 part filler is far too tough to apply and to sand back I find.
The ready mixed is really easy to apply, easy to sand back, and once painted it's nice and tough.
What inset concealed hinge would you use for an 18mm door with a 6mm shaker trim?
Hello, I'd definitely go 'Blum' as they are designed to work with doors of up to 25 mm.
Down side is that I find the blum hinges never have a great amount of adjustment, only a small amount on each grub screw.
I sometimes use the gtv soft close hinges and find they have much more.
I'm not too sure about maximum door thicknesses on these hinges.
I THOUGHT HE WAS JOKING AT FIRST....NEVER SEEN A CABINET DOOR DONE LIKE THIS?.... ITS GOT TO BE A HEAVY DOOR?
Why are you yelling?
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Would you use this method to make kitchen cupboard doors? Perhaps using MR MDF? Great content - keep it coming. Subbed 👍👍
Thanks for the sub 👍
If you are making them from scratch, yes you can do this.
Just put plenty of glue on.
Alternatively use pva and 23 gauge pins with a 23 gauge pinner and compressor to fire them out.
If you want no fuss, quick doors, then use this method 👍
And yes Mr mdf around anywhere there could be moisture 👍
Brilliant thanks - loving your channel! Would you also seal the edges the same using the filler method or would edge banding last longer in a kitchen?
Also what paint would you recommend for kitchen doors/cabinets?
Great job! Could I do this on my kitchen cabinets that I already have? Not sure what size they are. Standard U.K. kitchen cabinets. They have been painted with chalk paint. Could I glue these on the painted cabinet doors and then paint the added mdf? Thank you.
Hi, you should be able to do this to most doors.
If the doors have a shiny finish then they will need keying up with sandpaper.
Technically you shouldn't really glue over a painted surface but if it looks sound you can give it a go, it should be ok.
😁
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Yeah, maybe give the existing painted doors a light sanding first before gluing on rails. I mean you'd have to paint it anyways, right?
Great video! Do the doors work with standard cabinet hinges being 21mm and not 18mm?
Thanks
Yes they do most hinges should allow for hinges up to 24mm thick.
All depends on the brand of hinge, so look at the specs of the hinge before hand 👍
Great video Ryan - thanks mate. Newbie here....couple of questions if possible as I am doing this at home at the moment...(well in the next few days). 1. Is the mdf strip 80mm width? 2. Any ideas of where to get them in Australia (not sighted in Bunnings unfort.) 3. Can't find that glue here either....any suggestions? Many thanks mate.
Hi nick, if you can't find 3mm mdf, you can always use 6mm mdf.
Cabinet doors work best 18mm thick in total, so if you decide to use 6mm for the shaker strips, then the base part of the door will need to be 12mm. This works absolutely fine and do this regularly.
The width of the strips can be anything you want but I think somewhere between 65mm and 80mm strips look the best.
Regarding the glue, you just need to look for a mitre glue such as mitre bond. They all work the same way so as long as you use a 2 part product such as mitre bond etc then you should be fine 👍👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thank you for the speedy response. its a great video for novices like me (as are your others), keep them coming! ps. disregard the nuffies on here...always some drongo who wants to tell you why you're doing it wrong...some people can't read or listen good lol.
For a little more of a ‘Look’ put a very small chamfer on on the edge of your stiles and both ends of your rails. Very simple with a small cheap router and v bit.
Hey! What kind of filler did you use? I’ve just attached my mdf but I don’t know what to fill the gaps with. You said ready mixed filler but I was thinking wood filler (which isn’t mixed) but it sets up so fast. Advice appreciated 🙂
I'd go for a fine filler, but any ready mixed filler would do to be honest.
Tool station or screwfix if your in the UK.
Yes, using a 2 part filler probably isn't needed, so a ready mixed is perfect.
Okay great. Do you mean like a polyfilla type product? Thanks 🙏🏻
@@Hollyferris yes, that kind of product 👍
Tbh, most fillers should do the job.
You can get them in a small tub or a squeezy tube 👍👍
Okay perfect! Thanks for clarifying. Much appreciated.
@@Hollyferris no probs at all 😊
I have a quick question. Would this method work to make an exterior door too? I would be using a plain flush solid wood door as a base.
I would lean towards no probably, if anything use waterproof pva glue or PU glue .
I'd imagine the strips you add on would want to twist and cup in the changing weather.
There is no harm in trying though .
I'm aware this vid is old but I'm sprucing up some solid wood but very old cabinets. I'm using 1/8" (3mm) thick 1.5" wide strips. Hopefully it comes out this well. Thanks!
Amazing! I hope you pull it off and they look nice 👍
Totally AWESOME! Good stuffs braugh!
Cheers dude
Great Video Thanks for sharing, what was the name of that two part glue you used and where did you buy it? (I'm in the UK too)
+Family Prepper
Your welcome I'm glad it helps, you won't be disappointed with the glue!
It's called mitre fast and the best place to buy is tool station (go for the larger size as the bottle is easier to apply with).
If you enable the notification bell you will get a message when we upload new videos 😁
We should have an exciting new video up later tonight.
Thanks Ryan
Where did you get the 3mm from? None of the merchants do it.
I use mp morans near me
Good Music 😜
Hi do you think I could cut the MDF by hand using a saw as I don't have much equipment? If so what saw would you recommend?
A cheap track saw, maybe a silverline one or Parkside one
Hi, do youbthink it would work with 1/8 inch wood luan stripa on a flat, wood holllow core door that has been polyurthaned? Thanks.
I guess as long as both surfaces are flat and smooth and dust free I dont see why not.😁
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop - thank you! Looking forward to trying it.
This is quick but doesn’t look as nice as clamped shaker doors with a chamfer around the edge of each slat. Depends what style you are going for I suppose.
True, it's a door on a budget I guess 👍
Hi. How tall and wide can you go with this style of door I.e. 18+3 MDF? Just in the process of designing my own wardrobe. I have 6 doors at 2200x525. I was thinking 12+12 MDF untill I saw the video. Thanks
Hi I've gone up to 2440 x 600 before and it works fine.
It's a bit tricky but if you have a spare pair of hands it works well.
Just be sure to use enough glue and apply the 3mm strip In stages to ensure its pressed down flat.
I've never been keen on 12 + 12, as ultimately the strength of the door comes from the main panel thickness.
Ryan
Thank you you’ve shown the easy way 👍
Can I use these in my kitchen with a waterproof paint?
Yes that should be fine, as long as you paint them properly and with a good paint, preferably an oil based rather than waterbased paint 👍
If your still worried, then use M.R mdf .
Hi great videos are you still working during COVID and in london
Thanks yes we are thank God need to earn the pennies still.
We do work in London too.
hi if i send you over some images etc with measurements are you able to give quote? built in wardrobe for x2 chimney space please. Thank you
Yes no problems, if you go to our website www.thelondoncraftsman.co.uk there are email addresses in the contacts page.
Thank you
Ok will do thanks
It's a bit like food labels, when they say "Greek Style", and it's made anywhere but Greece, and is a made in a way that has nothing to do with the Greek way. The Wikipedia for Shaker Furniture describes the guiding principles as "simplicity, utility and honesty". While this is a quick visual copy, it's kind of defeating the point of using materials sparingly, building a sturdy frame with lightweight panels.
Wouldnt 21mm be to thick for a kitchen hinge ? Wouldnt it bind ?
Blum go up to 25mm I believe
I have ash 2 inches wide half inch thick.Can I glue this to mdf panel to make a shaker style door.The ash has been sanded and looks true.Would I need to screw the ash onto the panel through the mdf.Many Thanks.
+Hugh Anderson
I wouldn't of thought so, as long as the timber is dry/has no moisture in it other wise they may twist.
The glue is amazing and sticks literally anything that's completely flat.
Okay many thanks for that.Enjoyed the video.
Great video. Would this work for wardrobe doors too?
Thank you! Yes you can it may be a 2 man job to hold the strips whilst you are gluing them down.
Nice job , would you also use this method on tall doors 2.2 m long ?
Hi yes I have a number of times, just make sure you put enough spray and glue on.
Also may be worth getting a hand someone holding one end as you lay it down bit by bit.
Cheers Ryan
What type wood glue are you using? And where can I get it?
Hi I use any form of mitre glue, this one is called mitre fast
Does this method work for plywood?
Yes sure does
Hi, great video thanks. I’m about to give this a go. I just wanted to know, do you put the 1.6mm rad on the inside of the 3mm strips before they’re attached? Or do you not need to bother? Thanks!
Great!
No I wouldn't worry about that corner, just a light one swipe with p240 to take any rough corners off and that's it.
Make sure you sand those inside edges first before you glue them down though 🤘
The London Craftsman Thanks again! Very much appreciated!👍🏼
Does it make a difference if you miter the corners? I understand you will be painting, however does the butted corners have an unfavorable reveal?
+Max Kushner
Hi I don't think it should make a difference.
Nice job. What is it you're using for the filler?
+John Early
Thanks!
I use a jointing compound ( the stuff you use for dry lining joints)
It comes ready mixed and I find it a good filler to use.
To be honest any filler would do but don't use 2 part filler as it's really tough to sand back and may damage to mdf surface as you do.
Cheers Ryan
Where do you get the filler? Is a Toolstation/screwfix job or better from a builders yard? Do you have a brand you recommend? Cheers. Been making doors for fitted furniture by stop grooving 18mm styles and railed and then glueing and clamping 6mm panels in. This is going to save hours which will make the jobs more profitable - thanks again.
+The unicorn Workshop
That's good to hear thanks.
I don't think this technique has a downside.
By using an 18mm panel for the door and gluing the 3mm strips on, the door is very stable. There's very little chance of movement /warping/bowing compared to the traditional way of making them your using at the moment.
I buy it from wickes in a 5 or 10 kg tub
I've had lots of shaker doors to make and also use the strip method. Not sure I would use this gluing method. I prefer to use normal wood glue and pin them on with my micro 23g micro pinner. They are headless and need no filling, the paint fills the small gap. Also if using a water based filler, prime the doors first, then fill. Shouldn't really fill bare mdf.
How you do ends,edge banding?
Hi no we fill and sand the edges
Where do you source your 3mm mdf sheets in the uk ? They're hard to find.
Mp morans builders merchants. 😁😁
Are hinges strong enough, using MDF.??
Yes
Hello, what materials do you use?
All mdf, Mr mdf if in bathrooms.
Either 18mm panel and 3mm shaker strips or 12mm panel and 6mm strips.
Thank you. So the actual door is mdf also?
No problems, yes everything is mdf the main panel and the add on shaker style strips.
You could use any material if you wish, like birch ply etc but for a nice flat paint finish and low cost, use mdf
I appreciate it, thank you so much.
Loved this video thanks for sharing. You made it look effortless. I’m wanting this done in my kitchen. I just have straight flat cheapish mdf units and hate them. I’m no good at diy plus I’m also disabled so couldn’t possibly do it myself. My question is if I call a Carpenter/ joiner to do this to 11 doors and 3 drawer fronts is it likely to me MEGA expensive? Like more than £500? I know different areas charge different prices. I’m just asking you to have a rough guess if it will be hundreds & hundreds or not. I’m based in the North East a place called Redcar near Middlesbrough. If that’s any help? Just so you know it’s not posh expensive London prices 😂 any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 😊
Hi Sarah, sorry some messages dont make it through.
I dont think it would cost more than 2 days for a carpenter to do, taking into account removing door, cleaning, cutting and adding strips, painting and re fitting.
Paint and materials I cant See costing more than £75.
So depending on a carpenters day rate near you will depend on the total cost.
I hope that helps.
Cheers Ryan
The London Craftsman Hi Ryan. Thanks for the reply. I got in touch with a young couple. He does the carpentry work & she does the painting. We agreed I would buy my own paint and then that way I know the exact shade I’m getting. And I’ve been quoted £635. Not sure if I’m getting a good deal or not? He gave me two quotes the first is what I’ve just said which involves turning my cupboards into shaker style. His wife then will paint them all and paint all the edges and kickboards. But only paint the outside. And the second quote was if I wanted my kitchen walls painted. I only have a small kitchen and half of all the walls are tiled all around. So the top parts would just need painting. And he quoted me £880 😲 family & friends said id be mad to pay £240 to get what little bit of wall is showing painted. So I’ve opted for my friend to paint it & paint my tiles with tile paint. I bought all the stuff and she only charged me £35 BONUS!! lol & it’s turned out beautiful as well. What do you think is £635 a reasonable fair price? Thanks again for the message. Sarah 😊
Hi. I'm a complete beginner but found your video really helpful and inspiring. I'll be using my existing flat kitchen cupboard doors but just want to give them depth by adding the shaker style border... then I'm going to primer them and paint them. Struggling to find 3mm mdf anywhere? Where did you buy yours from? Also if you could tell me the exact filler you used I'd be so greatful. Thank you!
Hi thank you.
I get mine from MP Morans, they only have 3-4 branches.
I would suggest using 6mm but most concealed hinges ( hinges that are most likely used on your kitchen) only work with door thicknesses of up to 22mm. Some more expensive hinges go up to 25mm door thickness (such as blum hinges).
Either way probably safer to go with 3mm.
Just beware when sanding and filling it as it does fluff up quiet easy.
Just use any ready mixed fine filler, let dry and sand lightly with p240 or even p320 to stop the 3mm fluffing up.
What materials are the doors and panels?
Hi they are generally all MDF as MDF gives you the best flat finish.
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop But it's extremely susceptible to water damage. I wouldn't use it for bathroom cabinets.
Obviously.
MR MDF or valchromat should be used for bathroom use.
What do you use to fill the edges? Thanks
Hi id just use a ready mixed filler.
A good fine filler ive used recently is from toolstation called tou pret I think.
Goes really hard and gives you a lovely flat finish when p240'd
Hi ryan i was thinking of making some built in wardrobes after seeing your videos, great help.............but i'm not sure how to scribe in the head rail and end panel to the walls, could you do a video to help us DIYers out there, thanks kevin
+kevin benstock
Hi kevin yes I could make one after Christmas at some point.
For the trims, I simply take lots of measurements over the length of the trim.
So if the trim is 2400mm long I would measure from the wall/ceiling to the inside of the carcass/cupboard every 150mm and mark it on the trim as I go along.
Once I have all my marks I get a straight edge and join them all up.
Allow another mm or 2 so the trim isn't too tight.
Hi Ryan , hi made my 2.2 m high doors using the method in your video and they came out a treat , only thing I noticed is when I cleaned up the edges of the 3 mm mdf the surface got scratched a little and now seems a little more fluffy compared to the face of the 18mm , do you have any tips on painting the doors spraying is not something I can do so hand painting the only option. Cheers
Hi there,
3mm sometimes does that so I'd just go over the face with a smooth grade by hand, dont sand it back too heavy or it may fluff up more.
I've used wet and dry paper before, p320 or p400 should bring them back again and make them nice and smooth.
Use a good quality undercoat/primer and a good quality brush and paint the shaker and the steps.
You could probably use a mini roller for the inside of the shaker and the rear, and door edges.
Mohair rollers will probably give you the best coverage and finish.
Very lightly sand by hand once the door is dry using the p240 or p320.
Then the same process for the top coats,
I'd go down the eggshell route, 2 coats.
The London Craftsman thanks for your quick reply I will try that . I made them 4 panel 6 doors in a row looks like a panelled wall might use push catches to keep that effect. Thanks again
Your welcome! Sounds really nice!
Let me know how it all turns out.
If you need any more help let me know 😁👍
What glue and spray did you use again???
+Connie Sandy
Hi Connie it's called mitre fast
MDF doors for real? Look great but I've never liked how they perform over time. Especially the edges.
What is the piece of wood called and where to purchase it and the name of the glues. Thank you.
It's all mdf, 3mm and 18mm.
The glue is called mitre fast.
Do you have another link for this video? It doesn't seem to load 😢
I don't think I do, have you tried another Internet browser?
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Good thinking, it's working on Google Chrome but not through the TH-cam app...how bizzare! Thank you.
No probsx
Could you suggest a great alternative to mitre fast, can't get it in US.
+Dustin Whitten +Dustin Whitten
Hi, try mitre bond or any 2 part glue that fixes mitres together.
It's mainly used for kitchen and wardrobe pelmits but it has lots of other uses
Fast Cap 2P-10 is a similar product available in the US
impressive tutorial, how do you find the time to earn money...