Good video! "Reveling the float"(3:23), the float bowl is the bottom of the carb. Don't be in a hurry, if you ain't got time to do it right you ain't got time to do it! DON'T use a drill or impact driver on your carburetor, AND make sure your screwdriver tip is in good shape and is the right size i.e. #1 , #2 or #3 so you don't strip the screw heads! Don't pound on the mating surfaces with a screwdriver! I couldn't tell for sure but it looks like he did that, it's a good way to cause a leak.
If you're going to work on your carb is makes more sense to me to remove it completely and disassemble it entirely, use a carb kit and thoroughly clean and rebuild your carb. There are several videos on doing this for the rebel 250.
Always reluctant to try things especially carbs but this video is actually a great starting point I think I’ll give it a try and use this video as a guide thank you
Cleaning an older bike carb will need to be done, and this is a good video. If it and the tank was cleaned in the recent past, or it is a pretty mint newish bike, then you likely have corn oil dried in the bowl after sitting due to ethanol if the bike has started to act sluggish. I do buy ethanol on the road, as it is often the only choice, but if I buy pure gasoline (even 87 oct) one tank will clean the varnish better than gumout or seafoam in the tank. In winter most Ethanol gas is reduced to 1%-5% if above the Tenn River. Winter blend. That runs fine. Add a little gas treatment to each tank. Run it in the winter if possible. On a small carb. bike you'll notice it runs and idles progressively worse as Spring comes. The gasoline is back up to 10% or 15%. Corn ethanol is not pure alcohol but a shitty distillation, it starts to break down into Wesson oil and water. You can usually find a station that sells pure gasoline in the countryside somewhere. If it is only 15% more expensive then it IS THE SAME COST. You will get 10%++ better gas mileage. If you live in a city, fill up on those nice country roads. Oh Ethanol will eat the plastic petcock dip tube and filter on Japanese bikes. Replace your petcock every three years or so. A $4 150 micron lawnmower in line fuel filter after the petcock is a good safety if the petcock screen let's trash through or starts to decompose. A 75micron filter may restrict gas flow on gravity fed bikes. That is best if you have a fuel pump but you be the judge. Two course filters are better than just one. A floater gets to your only carb jet and you are walking.
Great video. I'm a UK all weather rider. I've had my rebel for over 2 years now with no mechanical issues...until last week.. started to stall whilst going round a corner crossing Infront of incoming traffic.. nothing had been adjusted prior to this. Plenty of fuel, warm engine (already covered 11 miles that trip). Air filter had slight fuel spots in but not flooded so I'm guessing the carb is the next job. I've done well to get this far. Thanks again for the great instructions
I am about to do this exact procedure and I am curious about one thing: how do you know if you are idling around 1000-1500RPM considering the standard Rebel doesn't have a dial indicating this? Great video, thanks!
tastysandwhich I agree, that's so annoying that there is no RPM gauge. On page 5-11 of the Service Manual for Honda Rebel 250, there is some direction on setting the Idle Adjustment Screw in relation to the pilot screw. I've taken a screenshot of the page here: ibb.co/mHub2J You kind of play it by ear. I think of it as, not so loud that the engine is not droning, and low enough that the engine is running without choke, and without stalling. Hope that helps and glad you liked the video!
unfortunately, this is mostly bad advice for proper handling and maintenance of a carburetor. Your information is great, but the person doing the work is not handling it properly at all. and never use wire on brass, it can ream the metal and scratch the small precise ports, also spraying carb cleaner and wd40 all over the rubber parts and seals is a bad move too
@@epickett63 the wd40 isn't a bad product, but it's made as a lubrication for metal parts and has chemicals that permeates and deteriorate rubber causing certain rubbers to warp, and other kinds to crack and fail, the carburetor cleaner does similar bad things to rubber. It's only for metal parts. Warm soapy water should be used to remove rubber parts from the bike and carb when it's off to only have the metal carb body. Then use as much varb spray as you like. Another option is to soak it overnight in spray. Or boil it in hot water and then use compressed air (not from a can) to blow out the ports. A brass high e guitar string can work if you don't force it through but it can still scratch and gouge the ports
Decent video for the novice...purists need not apply (this is a sub $1k bike remember). Don't forget to add a 90-degree in-line fuel filter on the incoming carb line while you're at it.
Good video!
"Reveling the float"(3:23), the float bowl is the bottom of the carb.
Don't be in a hurry, if you ain't got time to do it right you ain't got time to do it!
DON'T use a drill or impact driver on your carburetor, AND make sure your screwdriver tip is in good shape and is the right size i.e. #1 , #2 or #3 so you don't strip the screw heads!
Don't pound on the mating surfaces with a screwdriver! I couldn't tell for sure but it looks like he did that, it's a good way to cause a leak.
If you're going to work on your carb is makes more sense to me to remove it completely and disassemble it entirely, use a carb kit and thoroughly clean and rebuild your carb. There are several videos on doing this for the rebel 250.
Always reluctant to try things especially carbs but this video is actually a great starting point I think I’ll give it a try and use this video as a guide thank you
Cleaning an older bike carb will need to be done, and this is a good video. If it and the tank was cleaned in the recent past, or it is a pretty mint newish bike, then you likely have corn oil dried in the bowl after sitting due to ethanol if the bike has started to act sluggish.
I do buy ethanol on the road, as it is often the only choice, but if I buy pure gasoline (even 87 oct) one tank will clean the varnish better than gumout or seafoam in the tank.
In winter most Ethanol gas is reduced to 1%-5% if above the Tenn River. Winter blend. That runs fine. Add a little gas treatment to each tank. Run it in the winter if possible. On a small carb. bike you'll notice it runs and idles progressively worse as Spring comes. The gasoline is back up to 10% or 15%. Corn ethanol is not pure alcohol but a shitty distillation, it starts to break down into Wesson oil and water.
You can usually find a station that sells pure gasoline in the countryside somewhere. If it is only 15% more expensive then it IS THE SAME COST. You will get 10%++ better gas mileage. If you live in a city, fill up on those nice country roads.
Oh Ethanol will eat the plastic petcock dip tube and filter on Japanese bikes. Replace your petcock every three years or so. A $4 150 micron lawnmower in line fuel filter after the petcock is a good safety if the petcock screen let's trash through or starts to decompose. A 75micron filter may restrict gas flow on gravity fed bikes. That is best if you have a fuel pump but you be the judge.
Two course filters are better than just one. A floater gets to your only carb jet and you are walking.
Thanx for the video, i just cleaned my own watching it 😊👌👍
leonarno05 glad you were able to!
Great video. I'm a UK all weather rider. I've had my rebel for over 2 years now with no mechanical issues...until last week.. started to stall whilst going round a corner crossing Infront of incoming traffic.. nothing had been adjusted prior to this. Plenty of fuel, warm engine (already covered 11 miles that trip). Air filter had slight fuel spots in but not flooded so I'm guessing the carb is the next job. I've done well to get this far. Thanks again for the great instructions
I am about to do this exact procedure and I am curious about one thing: how do you know if you are idling around 1000-1500RPM considering the standard Rebel doesn't have a dial indicating this? Great video, thanks!
tastysandwhich I agree, that's so annoying that there is no RPM gauge. On page 5-11 of the Service Manual for Honda Rebel 250, there is some direction on setting the Idle Adjustment Screw in relation to the pilot screw. I've taken a screenshot of the page here:
ibb.co/mHub2J
You kind of play it by ear. I think of it as, not so loud that the engine is not droning, and low enough that the engine is running without choke, and without stalling.
Hope that helps and glad you liked the video!
Thank you for the response! That is very helpful.
great vid
I was riding and I believe I lost power due to dirty carb.. just got the bike and believe the previous owner didn't care for it.. hope it goes well!!
03:01 Good grip on the nail?
Great video. Thanks very much!
unfortunately, this is mostly bad advice for proper handling and maintenance of a carburetor. Your information is great, but the person doing the work is not handling it properly at all. and never use wire on brass, it can ream the metal and scratch the small precise ports, also spraying carb cleaner and wd40 all over the rubber parts and seals is a bad move too
So what *would* you use to clean the ports, and what would you use besides the WD-40?
@@epickett63 the wd40 isn't a bad product, but it's made as a lubrication for metal parts and has chemicals that permeates and deteriorate rubber causing certain rubbers to warp, and other kinds to crack and fail, the carburetor cleaner does similar bad things to rubber. It's only for metal parts. Warm soapy water should be used to remove rubber parts from the bike and carb when it's off to only have the metal carb body. Then use as much varb spray as you like. Another option is to soak it overnight in spray. Or boil it in hot water and then use compressed air (not from a can) to blow out the ports. A brass high e guitar string can work if you don't force it through but it can still scratch and gouge the ports
@@jpcirb Ok, thanks! I'm hoping new plugs will fix my girl's bike so I don't have to pull the carb, but just in case...
Use a jis #2 screwdriver
Good example of all the things, that you CAN'T do with carburator, if you want to ride on that bike agin...
Decent video for the novice...purists need not apply (this is a sub $1k bike remember). Don't forget to add a 90-degree in-line fuel filter on the incoming carb line while you're at it.