The chipping of the plastic solution is self explanatory once you have been shown and your solution makes perfect sense. Being I rarely have to Mill plastics I have not encountered this problem and now probably will not because you have wised me up. Thank you Joe. John, Australia.
Every hobby machinist on the planet thinks he knows how to grind Fly-Cutter tool bits. Most of us do not. Thx for clearing up some fuzzies. Every time I come here, I learn more. Great simple Vid...
great demo again Joe, one thing about the "smear" edge: sometimes you'll never get away from chipping no matter how sharp the tool so a sacrificial piece sandwiched against it will eliminate any chipping. works great on wood too by the way
Hi Joe, My name is Allan Manning I am a retired welder from UK, and I have always had an interest in machine shop, so I have set up shop in my garage. Through people like you and Tubalcain and others I am enjoying my new hobby. It is great that experts like you take time to teach us newbies the proper way to do things. I have learned a lot from watching your videos. I had put my fly cutters in the back of the tool drawer, because I just wasn't getting good results. After watching this video the light has come on and I now believe just what I have been doing wrong. Thanks a lot I can,t wait to get back into the shop and get my fly cutters out and practice what you have just taught me
Thank you very much for posting this video. Besides pointing out common problems that can occur when using a fly cutter, you explained the root cause (forces being applied in the cutting process), which in turn made the solution make sense. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Great demo as always !!! The same tool shaping theory can be applied to shaper tools...Watch the exit quality and burr of the shaper cut at the end of the cut as the tool leaves the part...shear & smear applies here too as well as tool lead angle as you showed in this demo. An improperly ground shaper tool may cut beautifully but tear the exit edge all to hell. Same tool geometry corrections as you demonstrated in this video apply to this problem too. So much fun to experiment and re-learn the old-school skills.
Very good. Years ago, when I still made my living making tiny pieces of metal from larger ones, myself and others would see how effective we could be using the fly cutter to make the surface of our part a diffraction grating. The criteria was the surface needed to be flat and to dimension. Could get some awesome colors when things went just right.
As a near retiring welder, and novice machinist, I've watched many tutorial videos, and I would put yours as best, hands down. Well explained, with close up videos to prove your point, and to the point narrative, not ramble on with minutes of chat that has nothing to do with your video. Thank you very much for teaching me more in a few minutes than the hour of video previously watched. I look forward to further education from you
Another extremely insightful lesson, Joe. Thank you for taking the time. Every time I watch your videos i go back to school, and wonder why I did not think as deeply about defects on parts when I made them. Everytime I go out to the bench now, something you have mentioned resonates with the task at hand.
Talk the talk and walk the walk. The proof was like night and day. Thanks for sharpening my understanding of tool geometry. I would have not figured that out.
While I machine very little plastic there's not a hope in hell I'd ever have figured out to grind the tool tip into that shape to prevent blowing out the corners. More than logical AFTER it was explained Joe. Not even sure there still available, but years ago I bought a 5/8ths shank fly cutter that uses round carbide tips on the tool tip. Made by New Dimension I think? Unless you do something really stupid and break the carbide in half it's dirt cheap to run since the tip can be rotated as it wears or in case it chips the edge. It gives a great finish on anything I've tried it with. About all I could add that most home shop guys either don't know or seem to forget is a single tooth fly cutter in metal is a finishing tool. There hard on the drive splines and probably spindle bearings at large depths of cut. Lot's of YT videos around where you can hear those splines hammering back and forth every time the tool tip enters the cut since there cutting more than the tool should be. Maybe I'm being a bit too conservative, but for that reason I limit mine to about .010" in steel and use it as a finishing tool and not for bulk metal removal. That's what face mills are for so there's always more than one tip buried in the cut and there's always a constant load on the drive splines.
Thank you very much for this video. I happen to be working on a project requiring very clean cuts in acrylic rod. I threw this video on as something to fall asleep to last week and got sucked right into it. The next morning I went in to work, grinded a new fly cutting tool and I was amazed by the results. I thought I was going to have to wet sand and lap all 120 ends. It has saved me so much work and the results are better than anything else I've tried.
Hi Joe I've just watched your video lesson on flycutter tool setup. As always your lesson is very interesting. Been a mechanic all my life so i'm self taught on engineering . But thanks to your lessons you're smoothing things out for me . RESPECT
Always with the advanced tips, thank you Joe Pie. I really appreciate that you give your speeds and feeds many TH-camrs do not. Keep up the great content
Thanks so much for sharing Joe. Answered so many of the problems I've encountered when using a fly cutter. The fly cutter was always my last resort, but not no more. A big Texas thank you.
Hi Joe! That was a great explanation! I really consider you a genius! I started working with my father since I was 11 years old and now I'm 51! Love the way you work! I'm from Vega Baja Puerto Rico if some day you visit P.R. give me a call I will be your host and show you around the island and my shop!
Just watched this Joe as I am awaiting delivery of a set of three fly cutters, and this was so informative and helpful. I love you videos they are great to watch and I lean several things every time. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and posting them. Greetings from England, I hope you and your family are staying safe, and will remain so. (I'm watching this in April 2020 during the corona virus epidemic affecting all the civilised world)
In large part thanks to your videos I just cut my first thead ever (1.25" 16 tpi brass) with the first try being a useable part. A good thing too since the only stock I had was the body of an old shower valve. This was for an emergency repair to an outside faucet where the PLASTIC body of the anti syphon valve broke, and of course is not available. It took me a laughably long time including grinding the tool on a rickety shop bench grinder. My lathe is a Chinese 7X14 I have used for the last 5 years for cutting and polishing. BTW: PVC pipe polishes up to where it almost looks like ceramic. I am electronic engineer working mostly in software these days. On the "make a tool/jig" or 'just grind them out" decision the software analogy is whether to automate a repetitive task (formatting, importing data, whatever) I will always go for automating where possible for 2 reasons 1: Even if everyone says it is a 'one time' task it often turns out not to be and the basic structure can often be used elsewhere. 2: It is simply more enjoyable than sitting there getting carpal tunnel from repetitive actions. Again thanks for the videos, not sure exactly what I learned but beyond basic facts I found I had some "instinctive" knowledge when making the faucet plug, especially when dealing with holding and centering the "stock" i had to use.
On point Joe keep em coming, it makes sense. In the eighties I was the go to guy for grinding our custom knifes for our wood shaper, the boss would always ask why I ran them the way I did.They notice no blow outs at the end of a run, if it works use it right.
Using soft and fragile materials really helps visualize what the tools do. It exaggerates the tool forces and helps teach what goes in a "microscopic" level on real machining. It's cute and great.
So glad we got to meet at the Bar-Z Summer Bash and cool that you were able to share the whole experience with your son. Great explanation and demonstration of the flycutter. Cheers, Gary
awesome videos joe! your teaching guys how to trouble shoot problems instead of having to go get the boss to ask him why thier parts keep yielding a negative result. ill see next year at the bash brother.
Thank you Joe i always wondered why only left handed lathe tools fit my fly cutter 😎 no joke.. the first 2 DIY cutters i didn't understand it until i got deeper in the FlyCutting Universe... Now i love the combination... wonderful finishes the best i made i gave to a good friend which is a big fan of you.. Like me..
You inspired me to grind up a new hss tool blank and try out fly cutting on my old ass manex mill. Cut steel first then a block of aluminum stock I got from the guy who sold me the lathe and mill. Worked out great. Nice finish. I feel a bit more confident farting with the mill feed and speed with the fly cutter. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks for sharing those tips. I went out and made me a fly cutter for me Index 645 this morning after watching your video. Few things in life are more satisfying than making your own tools and then getting to use them. Let me know how and I’ll send you a picture of it.
Food for thought, for sure,I don't mill many soft parts, some Delron for bushings but that's in the lathe,but I have noticed burs or roll over left on the 2 back cuts of some metals,As always good video Joe
Hi Joe, Thanks for the tips. One thing we do takes a little longer but we make 2 cuts that over lap never allowing the cutter to exit on the side that chips. The draw back is one more pass. Steve
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks. Not having a fly cutter that would work was starting to bother me. Sure enough, one day old and just what I was looking for from Joe Pi. I even dug a little deeper in the junk drawer and found a toolbit with the right angles.
Joe this is a great video , you would have gotten a good laugh if you saw me try and grind my first fly cutter , my dislexia set in and I ground it completly back asswords and couldn't figure out why it didnt't work . Thanks !
Thanks for watching no thank you very much you have just answer more questions I had in fly cutting then anyone could from the bottom of my heart thank you you are a great teacher god bless
As always, excited each time you post a video and never dissappointed afterwards. I think it would be interesting to see that acrylic machined with a slow motion camera, watching the chips breaking off vs. shearing off might give some cool insight.
Great Video Joe, I’m going to be doing my first Fly Cutting in a Minute, and wanted to check out how you do it before I go with it. Lots of Great Information. I learned a Lot. Thanks 👍
Another great video! Thanks! One thing you didn't mention, which I thought was pretty cool, is how you've relieved the front rake on the plastic-cutting tool which would make honing much easier. Kind of like the back of a Japanese woodworking plane iron.
Very helpful. I’ve recently started machining PEEK in a Haas DM-2. The parts need a very fine surface finish and the corners do blow out sometimes. I changed the order of operations around so it gets profiled after, but some parts have steps in them below the top surface . With a lot of micro features, the parts have a very long cycle time and one little flaw can undo a day or 2’s work. And every part is a one off. Not to mention the fact that PEEK is so expensive. We just got a new Prototrak mill so I can pre-process the material and do some of the part modification that engineering sends back after testing. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid lost my account password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Madden Karter I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thank you Joe. Another very useful piece of machining information to add to the 221 others. Your videos really add to viewers knowledge. I seek out and look forward to your videos and see them as my night school training in machining!
Excellent stuff Joe - once more! Pure great logic. :) Have to confess I have often not paid enough attention to the tool geometry - usually pure laziness! Your demo was definitely a true case of Q.E.D. :) Wish to heck I could been at the bash to shake your hand, along with many other folks - just was not possible.
Hi Joe thanks great board and practical demo. Had not even crossed my mind but so obvious with the drawing. Glad to hear you enjoyed the bash. Tks Will
👍👍👍👍 as always your explanations are crystal clear and your examples show the proof visually beautifully .. Thanks learned a ton of tips and tricks from you...ty i would love see Or suggest a video on how to use dro properly on mill or get the most out of one?? I do not see any on you tube and im sure you would explain the best . thanks again !
Hi Joe, Great videos and I learn a lot from you!! I have a new job in a Tool Shop. I could really use some tips for re-threading over-welded shafts. I have to repair burnt bearing surfaces and ruined threads that have had new material burned-in. Any advice would be much appreciated!! Keep making videos to pass along the wealth of knowledge you have. The few Manual guys like myself will use it and pass it on to others. Too many new guys think CNC is where everything should be done. You don't tie-up a 100K machine for hours just to make one part unless it is Very complex. That machine could be making repeatable parts instead.
that's the effect of chip thinning, you can go to the extreme to a high feed mills or the other extreme of limited radial engagement to do high speed milling. It's pretty cool to see the same concept used for different reasons and outcomes.
by adding a radius to the cutting edge, you're essentially making something that's similar in effect to a wiper insert, I mean there is a parallel, it's not the same thing, but the idea isn't far off in it's effect to the cut. it's very rare that I get to use HSS tools, the shop I work at is mostly exotic metals that are a bit too rugged for the High speed steel tooling, you nailed it with your answer to my last question (in regards to pushing a material very hard and still having trouble breaking chips) you nailed that in one, inconel. monel, hastealloy, Aermet, the materials that make life miserable are the kinds of things the shop I'm in deal in almost exclusively. It would be interesting to see you do a few videos about tackling the materials that make us all kind of cringe a bit. I did have another question for you less to deal with harsh materials, recently, I was turning some relatively large parts, 304L stainless. The problem I encountered that I couldn't seem to get passed was skin layer notching my inserts, tried tougher roughing inserts, with a larger radius, not much better results, slowed the spindle, and eventually both the spindle and feed. Still couldn't get a corner to make the full cut before it came undone. (6" dia. over a 52" cut, non ideal cutting conditions, the parts had a lot of runout so it was maybe .020 deep on one side, and .100 on the other, for the purpose of this particular job I'm going to call it and interrupted cut.) how would you deal with a job under those conditions, productivity is key, and restarting a cut that big 3 times to make the first pass, really kills it. this may sound strange, but working with something like stainless I almost prefer the harder materials, they may kind of suck, but I know what to expect, this was my first time dealing with stainless and I was completely lost on how to deal with the problems I was having.
I worked for a government contractor making submarine parts back in the 70's. I know those materials all too well. I currently do everything I can to avoid them. As for the stainless....2 rules for that stuff. Keep the tip of the tool buried, and don't be afraid to push it. Stainless, especially the 'L' series, like to work harden and lights cuts can be tough because of that. keep your tool under the top surface and keep it moving and you'll be pleased with the result. I say coolant is a must, but some may disagree. Keep the machine rpm lower on the 6" material, or the surface footage will just erase your tool. Good luck.
Now I have to go to the shop and make sure I have the right cutter geometry in my tool....the office will have to wait. Also, I'd love to make my own cutter body. I encourage you to considered that as a video topic. ~P. Thanks Joe
Just to add to breaking off the corners. If possible I try to hit each corner from outside the part before finishing the surface just a small amount. Great videos joe.
The chipping of the plastic solution is self explanatory once you have been shown and your solution makes perfect sense. Being I rarely have to Mill plastics I have not encountered this problem and now probably will not because you have wised me up. Thank you Joe.
John, Australia.
Every hobby machinist on the planet thinks he knows how to grind Fly-Cutter tool bits. Most of us do not.
Thx for clearing up some fuzzies. Every time I come here, I learn more. Great simple Vid...
great demo again Joe, one thing about the "smear" edge: sometimes you'll never get away from chipping no matter how sharp the tool so a sacrificial piece sandwiched against it will eliminate any chipping. works great on wood too by the way
That sandwich technique has saved my bacon on more than one occasion. you are spot on.
Hi Joe, My name is Allan Manning I am a retired welder from UK, and I have always had an interest in machine shop, so I have set up shop in my garage. Through people like you and Tubalcain and others I am enjoying my new hobby. It is great that experts like you take time to teach us newbies the proper way to do things. I have learned a lot from watching your videos. I had put my fly cutters in the back of the tool drawer, because I just wasn't getting good results. After watching this video the light has come on and I now believe just what I have been doing wrong. Thanks a lot I can,t wait to get back into the shop and get my fly cutters out and practice what you have just taught me
Thank you very much for posting this video. Besides pointing out common problems that can occur when using a fly cutter, you explained the root cause (forces being applied in the cutting process), which in turn made the solution make sense. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
This is the one I've been waiting for... well broken down and explained.
This man never ceases to amaze me. & we all thought a fly cutter was fool proof. Well done Joe.
Thanks for checking in.
Joe Pieczynski I would be a fool not to.
I learn something every time I watch you, Thanks.
Great demo as always !!!
The same tool shaping theory can be applied to shaper tools...Watch the exit quality and burr of the shaper cut at the end of the cut as the tool leaves the part...shear & smear applies here too as well as tool lead angle as you showed in this demo. An improperly ground shaper tool may cut beautifully but tear the exit edge all to hell. Same tool geometry corrections as you demonstrated in this video apply to this problem too. So much fun to experiment and re-learn the old-school skills.
Very good. Years ago, when I still made my living making tiny pieces of metal from larger ones, myself and others would see how effective we could be using the fly cutter to make the surface of our part a diffraction grating. The criteria was the surface needed to be flat and to dimension. Could get some awesome colors when things went just right.
As a near retiring welder, and novice machinist, I've watched many tutorial videos, and I would put yours as best, hands down. Well explained, with close up videos to prove your point, and to the point narrative, not ramble on with minutes of chat that has nothing to do with your video. Thank you very much for teaching me more in a few minutes than the hour of video previously watched. I look forward to further education from you
Thanks. I'm happy to provide it.
Another extremely insightful lesson, Joe. Thank you for taking the time. Every time I watch your videos i go back to school, and wonder why I did not think as deeply about defects on parts when I made them. Everytime I go out to the bench now, something you have mentioned resonates with the task at hand.
Thanks for that.
Amazing demonstration of how varying single point tool geometry determines quality of surface and edge finish. Clear and concise.
Talk the talk and walk the walk. The proof was like night and day. Thanks for sharpening my understanding of tool geometry. I would have not figured that out.
Glad to help.
It was my pleasure to fly you both home to Austin Joe, and a real surprise that I was able to meet you!
Thank you for yet another great video!
I hope your schedule allows for that shop visit in July. I'd be happy to show you around. Keep me posted.
While I machine very little plastic there's not a hope in hell I'd ever have figured out to grind the tool tip into that shape to prevent blowing out the corners. More than logical AFTER it was explained Joe. Not even sure there still available, but years ago I bought a 5/8ths shank fly cutter that uses round carbide tips on the tool tip. Made by New Dimension I think? Unless you do something really stupid and break the carbide in half it's dirt cheap to run since the tip can be rotated as it wears or in case it chips the edge. It gives a great finish on anything I've tried it with.
About all I could add that most home shop guys either don't know or seem to forget is a single tooth fly cutter in metal is a finishing tool. There hard on the drive splines and probably spindle bearings at large depths of cut. Lot's of YT videos around where you can hear those splines hammering back and forth every time the tool tip enters the cut since there cutting more than the tool should be. Maybe I'm being a bit too conservative, but for that reason I limit mine to about .010" in steel and use it as a finishing tool and not for bulk metal removal. That's what face mills are for so there's always more than one tip buried in the cut and there's always a constant load on the drive splines.
Great information on FLY CUTTERS . I have been watching for some time now. Enjoyed every minute.
As always, a HUGE thank you to Joe for sharing those tips who saves a lot of time!!
Thank you very much for this video. I happen to be working on a project requiring very clean cuts in acrylic rod. I threw this video on as something to fall asleep to last week and got sucked right into it. The next morning I went in to work, grinded a new fly cutting tool and I was amazed by the results. I thought I was going to have to wet sand and lap all 120 ends. It has saved me so much work and the results are better than anything else I've tried.
Glad to hear that. Thanks for your confidence in the material I shared.
Hi Joe I've just watched your video lesson on flycutter tool setup. As always your lesson is very interesting. Been a mechanic all my life so i'm self taught on engineering . But thanks to your lessons you're smoothing things out for me . RESPECT
Love the way you explain yourself it’s simple and to the point excellent!
As always I am a better home shop machinist after spending a few minutes with you. Thanks for what you contribute.
Thanks for the support.
I wish you had a phantom slo mo camera. Your teaching combined with live action footage is incredible. Thank you.
Always with the advanced tips, thank you Joe Pie.
I really appreciate that you give your speeds and feeds many TH-camrs do not. Keep up the great content
Thanks so much for sharing Joe. Answered so many of the problems I've encountered when using a fly cutter. The fly cutter was always my last resort, but not no more. A big Texas thank you.
Hi Joe! That was a great explanation! I really consider you a genius! I started working with my father since I was 11 years old and now I'm 51! Love the way you work! I'm from Vega Baja Puerto Rico if some day you visit P.R. give me a call I will be your host and show you around the island and my shop!
I'm glad you went over this. I could never get a straight answer on how to set up a fly cutter properly.
I watch your videos anytime I find myself with nothing to do, and everytime, I learn one more new things. Favorite youtube channel 👌🏻
Thank you for that.
Just re-watched this video so I could take notes; once again the light-bulb in my brain illuminated. Thank you Joe!
Learned something again, Joe. Many thanks for doing the video.
Just watched this Joe as I am awaiting delivery of a set of three fly cutters, and this was so informative and helpful. I love you videos they are great to watch and I lean several things every time. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and posting them. Greetings from England, I hope you and your family are staying safe, and will remain so. (I'm watching this in April 2020 during the corona virus epidemic affecting all the civilised world)
Thank you for the well wishes. My family is doing well. I wish the same for you and your's.
EXCELLENT EXPLANATION WORTH ITS WEIGH IN GOLD. THANK YOU
I have to echo the sentiments of my friend ugotit33x above; and you are worth YOUR weight in gold Joe. Thank you for sharing :)
one of the most useful videos i've ever seen here
In large part thanks to your videos I just cut my first thead ever (1.25" 16 tpi brass) with the first try being a useable part.
A good thing too since the only stock I had was the body of an old shower valve.
This was for an emergency repair to an outside faucet where the PLASTIC body of the anti syphon valve broke, and of course is not available.
It took me a laughably long time including grinding the tool on a rickety shop bench grinder.
My lathe is a Chinese 7X14 I have used for the last 5 years for cutting and polishing.
BTW: PVC pipe polishes up to where it almost looks like ceramic.
I am electronic engineer working mostly in software these days.
On the "make a tool/jig" or 'just grind them out" decision the software analogy is whether to automate a repetitive task (formatting, importing data, whatever) I will always go for automating where possible for 2 reasons
1: Even if everyone says it is a 'one time' task it often turns out not to be and the basic structure can often be used elsewhere.
2: It is simply more enjoyable than sitting there getting carpal tunnel from repetitive actions.
Again thanks for the videos, not sure exactly what I learned but beyond basic facts I found I had some "instinctive" knowledge when making the faucet plug, especially when dealing with holding and centering the "stock" i had to use.
Thanks again Joe for another tasty slice of Pie, great tips from the Lord of the Fly Cutter.
That worked really well, A beautiful cut. Once you see this there is no other way. Great job and thanks.
On point Joe keep em coming, it makes sense. In the eighties I was the go to guy for grinding our custom knifes for our wood shaper, the boss would always ask why I ran them the way I did.They notice no blow outs at the end of a run, if it works use it right.
Another top notch, educational, machining video. Thank you for educating me on the cutters, for flycutters. Makes perfect sense.
Using soft and fragile materials really helps visualize what the tools do. It exaggerates the tool forces and helps teach what goes in a "microscopic" level on real machining. It's cute and great.
You know! This is one of the most outstanding videos I have ever seen. Excellent presentation.
Honestly one of the best channels I have found, an amazing resource of knowledge. thank you Joe for taking the time to make these videos.
Thank you very much.
So glad we got to meet at the Bar-Z Summer Bash and cool that you were able to share the whole experience with your son. Great explanation and demonstration of the flycutter.
Cheers, Gary
awesome videos joe! your teaching guys how to trouble shoot problems instead of having to go get the boss to ask him why thier parts keep yielding a negative result. ill see next year at the bash brother.
I enjoyed the Bash. Hopefully my son will be available for it as well.
another great lesson for young machinists Joe! Using brittle acrylic for a demo was a great way to drive the message home.
...and us Gray Beards also.
Excellent lesson Joe Pie....the best solutions are always simple, it just takes a teacher to point them out. Thanks a bunch.
Thank you Joe i always wondered why only left handed lathe tools fit my fly cutter 😎 no joke.. the first 2 DIY cutters i didn't understand it until i got deeper in the FlyCutting Universe... Now i love the combination... wonderful finishes the best i made i gave to a good friend which is a big fan of you.. Like me..
You inspired me to grind up a new hss tool blank and try out fly cutting on my old ass manex mill. Cut steel first then a block of aluminum stock I got from the guy who sold me the lathe and mill. Worked out great. Nice finish. I feel a bit more confident farting with the mill feed and speed with the fly cutter. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks for sharing those tips. I went out and made me a fly cutter for me Index 645 this morning after watching your video. Few things in life are more satisfying than making your own tools and then getting to use them. Let me know how and I’ll send you a picture of it.
Food for thought, for sure,I don't mill many soft parts, some Delron for bushings but that's in the lathe,but I have noticed burs or roll over left on the 2 back cuts of some metals,As always good video Joe
Once again, very informative and useful explanation and demonstration! Congrats on hitting that 40,000 mark!
I have tried each thing you show and always have success. So it is the Joe Pi way or the highway around my place. Thanks for the video.
Thank you.
Love your simple no frills easy to digest uncluttered vids. Been doing this stuff my whole life and am still learning. Thank you Teach!
Hi Joe,
Thanks for the tips. One thing we do takes a little longer but we make 2 cuts that over lap never allowing the cutter to exit on the side that chips. The draw back is one more pass.
Steve
Great video Joe, as a beginner machinist i learn from your great videos every time! thank you.
Joe!! Thank you brother!!! Hahahah I’ll pocket the watch in my next maze race! Love and respect ✊🏻
Thanks for stopping by Jimmy. It was good to meet you. I have the utmost respect for your creativity and ability.
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks. Not having a fly cutter that would work was starting to bother me. Sure enough, one day old and just what I was looking for from Joe Pi. I even dug a little deeper in the junk drawer and found a toolbit with the right angles.
Joe this is a great video , you would have gotten a good laugh if you saw me try and grind my first fly cutter , my dislexia set in and I ground it completly back asswords and couldn't figure out why it didnt't work . Thanks !
Thanks for watching no thank you very much you have just answer more questions I had in fly cutting then anyone could from the bottom of my heart thank you you are a great teacher god bless
Glad to help. Thanks for the comment.
As always, excited each time you post a video and never dissappointed afterwards. I think it would be interesting to see that acrylic machined with a slow motion camera, watching the chips breaking off vs. shearing off might give some cool insight.
Great Video Joe, I’m going to be doing my first Fly Cutting in a Minute, and wanted to check out how you do it before I go with it. Lots of Great Information. I learned a Lot. Thanks 👍
Another great video! Thanks!
One thing you didn't mention, which I thought was pretty cool, is how you've relieved the front rake on the plastic-cutting tool which would make honing much easier. Kind of like the back of a Japanese woodworking plane iron.
Thanks again Joe. We used fly cutters on cast iorn cylinder heads more than anthing else.
Thank you for the trouble of putting all this knowledge in one place.
Amazing demonstration on how tool geometry can effect your cut. Great stuff!
Very helpful. I’ve recently started machining PEEK in a Haas DM-2. The parts need a very fine surface finish and the corners do blow out sometimes. I changed the order of operations around so it gets profiled after, but some parts have steps in them below the top surface . With a lot of micro features, the parts have a very long cycle time and one little flaw can undo a day or 2’s work. And every part is a one off. Not to mention the fact that PEEK is so expensive. We just got a new Prototrak mill so I can pre-process the material and do some of the part modification that engineering sends back after testing. Thanks for sharing your experience.
great explanation on how to use a fly cutter ;-)
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid lost my account password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Anders Hayes Instablaster :)
@Madden Karter I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Madden Karter It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out :D
@Anders Hayes No problem =)
Thank you Joe. Another very useful piece of machining information to add to the 221 others. Your videos really add to viewers knowledge. I seek out and look forward to your videos and see them as my night school training in machining!
Joe, once again your genius and experience have taught a great lesson. Many thanks!
Excellent stuff Joe - once more! Pure great logic. :) Have to confess I have often not paid enough attention to the tool geometry - usually pure laziness! Your demo was definitely a true case of Q.E.D. :)
Wish to heck I could been at the bash to shake your hand, along with many other folks - just was not possible.
Great tutorial! I always learn something from your videos!
Joe, great content and good lesson. I think you desire more thumbs up that one. Thanks for showing us this method to correct our mistakes.
Great vid. I learn so much from you, thanks.
Hi Joe, Great as always, congrats on 40 thousand, and many more. Keep them coming. Thanks again. Jim
Thank you. I am grateful and very flattered by the support.
That was extremely handy and helpful. Now it seems simple but I'd have never figured it out on my own.
Brilliant as usual Joe. Thanks. You always make things understandable.
Thanks again Joe I learn something with every video, just know you are very appreciated. From Ky, Dave
Thanks Dave.
Thank you for the education and sharing your experience
Thanks for another great video. I will have to grind up a tool blank for plastic. And congrats on hitting 40k subscribers.
Hi Joe thanks great board and practical demo. Had not even crossed my mind but so obvious with the drawing. Glad to hear you enjoyed the bash.
Tks Will
👍👍👍👍 as always your explanations are crystal clear and your examples show the proof visually beautifully .. Thanks learned a ton of tips and tricks from you...ty i would love see Or suggest a video on how to use dro properly on mill or get the most out of one?? I do not see any on you tube and im sure you would explain the best . thanks again !
Hi Joe,
Great videos and I learn a lot from you!!
I have a new job in a Tool Shop.
I could really use some tips for re-threading over-welded shafts.
I have to repair burnt bearing surfaces and ruined threads that have had new material burned-in.
Any advice would be much appreciated!!
Keep making videos to pass along the wealth of knowledge you have.
The few Manual guys like myself will use it and pass it on to others.
Too many new guys think CNC is where everything should be done.
You don't tie-up a 100K machine for hours just to make one part unless it is Very complex.
That machine could be making repeatable parts instead.
Always learn something when Prof Joe is holding class...
The geometry of the successful tool reminds me of an inserted face mill. Great video as always Joe.
that's the effect of chip thinning, you can go to the extreme to a high feed mills or the other extreme of limited radial engagement to do high speed milling. It's pretty cool to see the same concept used for different reasons and outcomes.
Ya we use high feed mills at work. They make proving out new programs a butt clinching experience.
Congratulations on 40K!!! Well deserved and its gonna keep going up!!
it was a real pleasure to finally meet you at the bash.
i felt a little starstruck!
i love your channel, keep doing what you do!
I enjoyed speaking to everyone that took the time to stop. I value all my supporters and feel flattered to be included in their community.
As usual very good, very helpful and eye opener ....
Need to add "flycutter" to my list of shop projects. Thanks Joe!
Was great meeting you at the Bash. Thanks for sharing the details on the flycutting tools tool. Probably could use the same the end mills.
Thank you Joe for all the content...keep up the good work and great lighting and video....
Great video demonstration. Great tips. Thank you for sharing.
Very informative joe thanks for the tip
It does make sense too.
My new favorite channel !!! Thanks buddy
Thank you.
Very useful information very well demonstrated I’ll take this on board thanks again Jo
It was really nice to meet you and your son at the Bash, Joe.
by adding a radius to the cutting edge, you're essentially making something that's similar in effect to a wiper insert, I mean there is a parallel, it's not the same thing, but the idea isn't far off in it's effect to the cut. it's very rare that I get to use HSS tools, the shop I work at is mostly exotic metals that are a bit too rugged for the High speed steel tooling, you nailed it with your answer to my last question (in regards to pushing a material very hard and still having trouble breaking chips) you nailed that in one, inconel. monel, hastealloy, Aermet, the materials that make life miserable are the kinds of things the shop I'm in deal in almost exclusively. It would be interesting to see you do a few videos about tackling the materials that make us all kind of cringe a bit. I did have another question for you less to deal with harsh materials, recently, I was turning some relatively large parts, 304L stainless. The problem I encountered that I couldn't seem to get passed was skin layer notching my inserts, tried tougher roughing inserts, with a larger radius, not much better results, slowed the spindle, and eventually both the spindle and feed. Still couldn't get a corner to make the full cut before it came undone. (6" dia. over a 52" cut, non ideal cutting conditions, the parts had a lot of runout so it was maybe .020 deep on one side, and .100 on the other, for the purpose of this particular job I'm going to call it and interrupted cut.) how would you deal with a job under those conditions, productivity is key, and restarting a cut that big 3 times to make the first pass, really kills it. this may sound strange, but working with something like stainless I almost prefer the harder materials, they may kind of suck, but I know what to expect, this was my first time dealing with stainless and I was completely lost on how to deal with the problems I was having.
I worked for a government contractor making submarine parts back in the 70's. I know those materials all too well. I currently do everything I can to avoid them. As for the stainless....2 rules for that stuff. Keep the tip of the tool buried, and don't be afraid to push it. Stainless, especially the 'L' series, like to work harden and lights cuts can be tough because of that. keep your tool under the top surface and keep it moving and you'll be pleased with the result. I say coolant is a must, but some may disagree. Keep the machine rpm lower on the 6" material, or the surface footage will just erase your tool. Good luck.
Now I have to go to the shop and make sure I have the right cutter geometry in my tool....the office will have to wait. Also, I'd love to make my own cutter body. I encourage you to considered that as a video topic. ~P. Thanks Joe
Makes perfect sense on the plastics Joe 👍🏼 Thanks for sharing the tip :) ~ Richard
Just to add to breaking off the corners. If possible I try to hit each corner from outside the part before finishing the surface just a small amount. Great videos joe.
You'll see me do that when walking an endmill around a part. I always try to drive the cut into the part. Reduces the burr too.
It was great to finally meet you at the bash. I always learn so much from your videos!
Another Amazing lesson from the master