Not sure how I stumbled across your video, but I'm glad I did. When I saw you wiping down the roof with acetone I wasn't sure what the point was. But your explanation for not wanting to wipe years of grime down into the paint made perfect sense. I like doing rust repair myself, I also use metal prep before topcoat products, I have a plastic container of molding clay. When I need to bathe a rusty area in metal prep, I build a corral around it, that way I can actually pool the liquid wherever I need it. Works very well. And the clay is reusable, I usually rinse it with some water to get the chemicals off, but probably not totally necessary. Like the video👍
Phosphoric acid is the product to kill the rust.. It's much cheaper and stronger if bought at the feed store as milk stone remover 60+% phosphoric acid... Prep and etch concrete paint prep from home depot or lowes will do at $20 a gallon..same basic formula as in ospho and SEM rust mort. Etch primer has phosphoric acid in it and some epoxy primers recommend phosphoric acid treatment before epoxy... I have done this process and not once have I had rust through or rust creep...cars that are dailys and live in the rust belt need to be treated with fluid film or woolwax inside and out... Prep and maintenance is the key to a long lasting job.
Iron/rust remover detailing products are designed to pull iron oxide out of paint with either a clay bar or a decon towel. As they are expensive and horribly smelly, I was really amused to see it used in such a way. It is for when you want to polish existing paint but not get iron oxide in the polishing pad so the metal doesn't cause scratches and swirls. If you're sanding anyway, I do not see the point.
I agree, smelly and probably unnecessary. I had it so I wanted to try it. It might have been wrong for this task but I learned a lot about it. The Eastwood product, I also had on hand, did a Great job 😊
Not sure how I stumbled across your video, but I'm glad I did. When I saw you wiping down the roof with acetone I wasn't sure what the point was. But your explanation for not wanting to wipe years of grime down into the paint made perfect sense. I like doing rust repair myself, I also use metal prep before topcoat products, I have a plastic container of molding clay. When I need to bathe a rusty area in metal prep, I build a corral around it, that way I can actually pool the liquid wherever I need it. Works very well. And the clay is reusable, I usually rinse it with some water to get the chemicals off, but probably not totally necessary. Like the video👍
Thank you for the kind words and the great tip with the clay!
Phosphoric acid is the product to kill the rust.. It's much cheaper and stronger if bought at the feed store as milk stone remover 60+% phosphoric acid... Prep and etch concrete paint prep from home depot or lowes will do at $20 a gallon..same basic formula as in ospho and SEM rust mort. Etch primer has phosphoric acid in it and some epoxy primers recommend phosphoric acid treatment before epoxy... I have done this process and not once have I had rust through or rust creep...cars that are dailys and live in the rust belt need to be treated with fluid film or woolwax inside and out... Prep and maintenance is the key to a long lasting job.
I’ll give that a try next time. Thanks for the tip.
Iron/rust remover detailing products are designed to pull iron oxide out of paint with either a clay bar or a decon towel. As they are expensive and horribly smelly, I was really amused to see it used in such a way. It is for when you want to polish existing paint but not get iron oxide in the polishing pad so the metal doesn't cause scratches and swirls. If you're sanding anyway, I do not see the point.
I agree, smelly and probably unnecessary. I had it so I wanted to try it. It might have been wrong for this task but I learned a lot about it. The Eastwood product, I also had on hand, did a Great job 😊