Metal Planer Restoration 66: Brazing the Broken Cast Iron Shifting Lever
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2021
- Metal Planer Restoration 66: How I went about Brazing the Broken shifting lever casting made of cast iron by brazing it back together and then shrink fitting a couple of steel rings to help reinforce it together.
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I really like the idea of adding the rings. When I saw that I was convinced that the part is now stronger than original. Whether or not you fill the small voids before painting is a minor matter of taste. The key thing is making a proper structural repair. I appreciate seeing how you did that.
Fascinating to watch you work. Yes, there were a wide number of suggestions but, like you said, this is the way you're doing it. All of us, me included, put in our 2 cents' worth, but you do what you can, the way that works best for you, in the best way you can. As one commenter said, "it's a continuation of the history of this machine". Years down the road, someone will see those rings, wonder what happened, and after a little investigating, realize that you made it stronger than it was before. Bravo! Great job, Keith!
It's good it broke when it did.
A couple weeks ago, I was in a parking lot when one of my brake lines ruptured. I was angry about it at first, but then I was grateful it happened in a parking lot instead of on the freeway. I'm a lucky guy.
i have followed the rescue and restoration of this old metal planer since you first started, it's fantastic to see the machines that built the modern world being given a second chance...... great work Keith
Absolutely brilliant with those rings! I wouldn't have trusted a repair on a part Like that with a break like that. Another trick in my bag thanks to an experienced man. Thank you.
Hi Keith,
How about using some JB Weld to fill those voids. Could even use some auto body putty if you want the sanding easier. You all stay safe.
I agree. Fill those voids if for nothing more than the aesthetics... I mean, look at all the other aesthetic details that have already been done.
The fact that I was thinking zipties reminds me how little I know about metal working.
Don, my thought was to use bondo and paint. Great minds....
@@MikeWest_W Laughing out loud!
Probably stronger now than it was originally without the crack and oil intrusion. Nice job. Filling the gap won't improve performance but would drive me nuts to leave it unfilled.
Thanks for sharing! I just love someone trying to tell how to do a job, I know I don’t know everything but every time I have made a mistake it was because I let someone talk me into doing something “the better way” !
Nice work Keith. The original crack looks a lot like a stress-riser off the keyway
So close to seeing chips being made on that beautiful machine now Keith. Great job!
Masterful thinking. Old school .
Hi Keith, you can use a needle gun to stimple the brazing to match the cast iron, once painted it's very hard to tell
Stipple + Dimple = Stimple? 😁
Good to leave it as is: showing another stage of the machines life story for the generations to come !
Looking forward to this. Well done. Best wishes to you and your family
Nice work Keith... Have a good weekend...
From a functional point of veiw I am sure that is adequate. If it was my job I would have filled the void's on both sides just for the asthetic considerations. But it's Keith's job and his machine I am just grateful for his channel. :-)
May be he can fill the voids with some putty before the paint job
If you braze the voids just to fill them you also add over braze to points that will then have to be remachined, if it is just for aesthetics, body filler or JB-Weld would be the choice.
I kind of get the feeling that Keith's getting impatient to get this machine running!
My buddy Tom taught me to file all the ground surfaces after grinding the prep. The filed surface wets much better.
It's impressive how much was cut after the ring cooled down!
Totally agree many a brazing job if it fails again it’s always in the surrounding material. Never seen the braze it’s self fail. Besides if cleaned up properly once the brazing process is complete it’s a nice looking repair.
🇺🇸🦅🌏⚓️🇺🇸
Is the brazed area stronger, or was the integrity of the surrounding material weakened when the part was brazed? This is a genuine question. I don't know the answer. I do know that when some metals are welded, that the crystalline structure of the surrounding metal is changed causing it to become brittle and weak. I did some brazing in college, but that was many years ago and that's pretty much the extent of my brazing experience. This is just a question that came to me as I read your comment.
@@buckinthetree1233 Brazing does raise the temperature to the fusing point of the iron. Therefore no brittle carbides are produced.
@@boldford I appreciate the information.
@@buckinthetree1233 That should have read "doesn't raise the temperature to the fusing point of the iron". Fat fingers!
@@boldford I was pretty sure that's what you meant judging by your sentence structure, and knowing that if it was at fusing temp., that it would raise the risk of compromising the surrounding material. I appreciate your clarification though.
Thank you for video.
I can't imagine how the millions of repairs in the past were successfully done without the new techniques.
I recommended those rings also, well done, looks well done
Nice repair
The only way I know how to braze with a torch. That's the way I was taught from my father and my grandfather
Good morning!
Outstanding work. Not only that, you give a lesson on the techniques!
In 1972 I was running a Gray closed side planer
for Waner&Swasey . One of the jobs I did did was planning old turret lathe beds for fitting hardened way strips . Before I could start I had to put in new roller bearing races .
The first thing I did was put the races in the freezer to get them cold to shrink them to put them in the headstock.
Then I made my setup.
By then they were cold enough put in. If you got them perfectly straight and not waste too much time they would slip right to the back of the bore .
With in about 5 seconds they would lock solid.
I saw one of these machines completed and you couldn't tell the difference from a brand new machine. The strips were held on by brake off screws.
Very cool and awesome repair. I wouldn't have thought of the rings so I'm delighted to say I learned something. Thanks for sharing!
Would have never thought about adding the retaining rings to secure the repair - excellent example of craftsmanship. I agree with several other commenters - fill the voids with body putty, sand it down and then repaint. So many other details have been meticulously done on this machine...it doesn't make sense to leave the voids since it's such an easy aesthetic problem to solve. I'd knock it out if I were you.
Nice repair to bring it back "useable". Thanks for the look.
Nice work, Keith. It is almost as if you have done this thing a time or two. ;)
Thanks to you and the other youtube machinists, I was inspired to purchase my own lathe recently and hope to one day achieve something with it. If nothing I can make pens ;)
thanks for the videos, have a good one.
"We" broke this piece ?? Love ya man !
You are making me feel more comfortable to braze I have a missing tooth on back gears and putting off trying to fix it. I'm getting alot less afraid of doing it now . Thanks as always awesome job !!
Impressive practical repair. I've got to say I don't mind the voids, which help to tell the story of what happened to the part and how it was repaired.
Thank you for sharing. Nice repair. Enjoyed.
Very good repair on the shifting lever. When you think things through it comes out good.
Nice!
Another very satisfying viewing!
That's a brilliant repair Keith .
The technique that Keith used on the collars is almost identical to the method used on steam locomotive to install the outer replaceable section of the driven wheels.
Known as "tires".
@@bb_37 this is correct, but I was trying not to confuse people with information overload.
Also putting the steel tire on a wooden wagon wheel.
@@july8xx this is true. I've seen that done as well.
I was taught to always apply a paste of flux in water to the joint before heating the part. As soon as you raise the part to red heat it is forming surface oxides and eliminating some of the joint preparation you did. Flux stops that oxidation.
Just adding flux to the rod means that the flux has to flow into the joint and remove the oxide that heating is creating.
Spot on advice Paul G. Brazing always must use a flux to chemically control surface oxides formed by the heating. Keith made no mention of fluxes as he used flux coated brazing rods.
@@stevebliss3600 Yes , was aware he is using flux coated rods. In fact brazing is impossible without any flux. However, my point still stands, the flux on the rod does not get to the joint until after the area has been raised to red heat and the oxidation has already occurred.
Nice repair Keith. I have brazed several similar parts and had great out comes. Flame brazing is the way to go.
I love using Muggyweld to do my brazing. I just like how arch brazing melts right in after a good preheat it's just so much faster and barely runs. Great for layering.
I don't know the first thing about brazing, thanks for the info. I will say, you removed a lot more material prior to the braze than I thought you would. Thanks again.
I like the shrunk on reinforcement rings.Great idea.With a little paint,it will be barely noticeable.
nice job
I like the ring reinforcement, clean and strong.
When pre-heating the part prior to brazing, you said you don't have an oven in the shop. What about the heat treating oven you've shown us? Does it have a low enough temperature setting to be used for pre-heating parts before brazing? Is it large enough for this part?
Not large enough to fit the part with it clamped. You don't want to be fumbling around trying to get it clamped up after heating it.
I would blend in the braze voids with TIG to make it look like a complete fix and to provide some additional tie-in of the rings. Quick work and would look better.
Thanks Keith.
I started brazing bicycle frames when I was 12. Not perfect at first, but you learn. Since then, I've brazed many, many items, mostly CI, and I can't remember a repair that broke unless it was sketchy to begin with. I'd never weld CI, it just causes problems. Great repair; not the prettiest, but like others have said, that's what bondo is for.
We’re getting close now to that first cut! 🤫
I've done lots of huge broken castings some veary large ones we added steel studs taped into the bevels groves and it's a must to add Borax flux Flux coated rod isn't enough .
I agree to leave well enough alone and not add any more braze. Other's suggestions of JB weld is perfect.
Keith, I have a lot of experience when it comes to welding cast iron. I've done it all, and I can confidently say I know what I'm doing. With that in mind, I braze everything I can. Why? Because it works, and it's easier. And if the part serves it's purpose, that's the whole point. Most people I see that scoff at brazing either haven't done it, or base their opinion on an improper brazing job.
Would you advise brazing when repairing cracks on old antique tractor cylinder heads? I like my allis chalmers tractors, but it seems when ever I tear one apart for a rebuild I have a cracked head to deal with. Any advise on repairing cylinder head cracks on gas tractors?
Looks great, I'd be surprised if this repair doesn't outlive you.
I have to agree that those voids look bad, but I also agree that heating the whole thing, rings and all, might not be the best idea. Maybe a little J-B Weld would do the trick?
I was thinking that too! Almost totally cosmetic (but ads a *little* strength). I like to make repairs look good. Just years of habit... ;)
Was thinking the same maybe even just some body filler, I have found that used to clean up castings in the past and easy to sand down
@@gagasmancave8859 Body Filler is the normal thing found on Bridgeports and other high end machines....
J-B Weld (metal loaded epoxy), sanding, and paint will make it look "purty". The part easily should be stronger than when it was originally cast. The tensile strength and shock resistance of bronze is greater than that of cast iron and those steel rings, most definitely, help.
"Stuff" always happens. :>( It's what you do, when things take a turn for the worse, that matters. Excellent fix, Keith.
@@eliduttman315 We had a handle on a milling vise tha t was brazed 30 years ago [probably a 70 year old vise, shop opened in 1920] and took one heck of a beating....never any issues day in and day out......made me a believer in brazing......if done right......
Nice repair and totally agree about brazing. And at worst, if you are really worried about the holes in the braze, you could always add an apoxy filler before painting.
Great repair Keith!!! .. could not have done better myself!
Edit: I particularly like the shrink fit rings on there ..
When it's painted you won't even look at it, great repair.
Good morning from SE Louisiana 27 Aug 21.
I prefer brazing also. I've had good luck and I like the finished appearance of the braze material.
It reminds me of the old company where I was. One of them had an accident with the one year old CNC lathe. The cast slide broke and the revolver sits on it. The delivery time for the spare part from Japan was 9 to 12 months, but urgent production was waiting. That's why the boss had the cast component brazing. A specialist company did it, and it was certainly expensive. After half a year, the new cast slide came from the manufacturer. Then the machine was taken apart again. The boss had to pay again. The employee waived his bonus this year but was not fired. But he had become very careful.
very cool, if youre going to paint it, you could use bondo or something to fill the gaps to and have a smooth finish
One step closer to the final video of it running.
Oh come on Keith, we all know your going to fill in them little bits, they will be starring at you every time you use the machine, good video, thanks for sharing, can’t wait to see the planer do it’s thing.regards from the UK
Rule of thumb for thermal expansion (linear) of iron and steel: about 1 thou per inch per 100 degrees C (or 200 degrees F). Stainless steel, brass, bronze and copper all about 1.6.to 1.8 thou per inch per 100C.
I envy you, I couldn't live with myself leaving those brazing holes behind, the sight of them would haunt me for months.
I assume you save a lot of time with these kind of jobs.
Yes it is amazing it how steel will grow when it gets warm, I worked with a gentleman who used to lay out bridge beams before he moved the company that we work together at. He said that he would have to lay them out very early in the morning or even at night because the sun would cause the beams to curve from one side to the other based on where the sun was hitting them and it would cause his measurements to be off. This is also why on steel structures you have expansion joints I myself have seen the steel beams grow up to quarter-inch because of the Sun
Popular Mechanics, the magazine, I believe did a story of putting in place the last piece of the Gateway Arch in St Louis. Now also on TH-cam. The operation was done as early as possible in the morning with the sun up heating both left and right sides of the Arch and the Fire department spraying water on the side toward the sun of the Arch to get the whole Arch the same temperature to fit the bolts in of the last piece to the Arch to which made the two sides one continuous structure.th-cam.com/video/41lMeWCVZ6I/w-d-xo.html
I know a lot of other people have said it, but I agree. You should use some body filter, or JB to clean that up.
Very interested in your comments on nickel welding. I just had to braze the end bracket of the x axis of my mill which some one had repaired with nickel arc weld. It was soon plain that no preparation had been done, the weld looked like pigeon droppings, and when the heat got on it it was so porous the oil and grime oozed out. I had to grind all the nickel away before I could braze.
Nice!! Great work... :-)
As a machinist that also done some teaching seeing someone running a lathe with a setup like that scares the living juices out of me. Prefer to do it myself so I have control and know clearance is checked and nothing gets close to that swinging thing that shouldn't.
Now please excuse me while I go and wipe off some cold sweat while you continue your job! :-D
This part could be machined more safely on a Bridgeport by clamping it on the table and using a heavy duty boring head with appropriate boring bar. That way the part remains stationary and the tool rotates. Either way will get the job done as long as the machinist knows what he’s doing and is careful.
Been a long road to make chips on this one. Can't wait. =)
Keith, bodywork repair shops will give you a bit of bond adhesive to fill up these areas, and then later you can apply paint
Brazing looks much prettier than welding. So it’s clearly better. 😛
Barrel hoops add a lot of strength
So close! (Knew you didn’t break it.). I’m wondering if you will be able to keep from rebrazing the rough spots. We’ll see. Thanks for the video.
Keith, for those that don't know, brazing is perfectly fine on cast iron, or even for bonding steel to cast iron. However, when it comes to steel, it does not penetrate the metal, but is basically a coating. Welding on the other hand, actually bonds and penetrates into the base metal, and is much preferred. Light gauge metals that are exposed to the elements, such as exhaust pipe are at higher risk of failure in the future if brazed. I know that there's a certain sense of satisfaction with either, but welding steel is the most desirable.
Hiya Keith
The heating of the rings is right in line in what we would do to put bearings on shafts in radial aircraft engines. Only difference is we heated them in an oil bath take them out and drop on the shaft. Very rarely had to tap them with a small hammer once or twice to get them to seat all the way.
I like the repair. May I send you all my broken cast iron pans?
If it works keep doing it…
Good attitude although some would argue that newer is better and such.
Don't forget to make the two studs for the nuts that secure the tilt on the clapper.
I am sure it will work and do the job it was designed to do. However, my OCD would have to fill in the areas and then smooth the entire part and finish up via media blasting to give it all a similar look before painting again. Just the way I am. I personally don't like "good enough" issues. And knowing how I like to do things, I would also draw up and make a pattern to have a cast part made. Then machine that cast part and fit it. Again, I just like things to be quality and look great as well. JMHO Thumbs Up
I totally agree, that "fix is what I call half-ass. He put so much time and effort into the restoration to have that piece look like that is unfathomable.
Agreed why go 80% of the way, you’re already into it to fix it just finish it.
@@garys9694 My thoughts as well
Nope pure cosmetics, when that's bolted on you won't even see it as there are washers in place. Looking good does nothing for function.
1:28 - Ended up with crankshaft in similar condition, showing the same staining, and while the replacement was more than I wanted to spend at the time, it let go near home rather than on that cross-country trip just completed.
2:28 - Note the cracks originated at the corners of the key slot. Good reason for key broaches to have corner radii and ditto the keys.
4:55 - You're trying to spread the heat; TIG's advantage is concentrating the heat.
30:10 - Disagreed; both sides will be a *LOT* stronger; the back-side loading will keep the cracks from originating.
There is a very similar process to shrinking the rings on sailboats back when they were all built out of wood. It was not uncommon for the mast to crack vertically but not catastrophically. They would wrap very heavy rope around the mast and tighten it with water and leverage. The process is called gammoning
Swinging death trap,you are so eloquent lol.
Those voids under the rings just continue the story of that particular machine.
When preheating larger pieces for brazing I use a tiger torch just to get the piece good and hot. It takes a lot less oxy- Accetelin to get it up to brazing temperature.
YAY!!
Get a new one casted .Best choice
Have to admit I thought you ground out a scary amount of material at the start. I think it turned out great though and the rings are an excellent strengthener..Nice Job.
The brazed part has been repaired using a belt and suspenders approach and will be good for a very long time.
I like how you did this repair. Those rings might even be overkill, but I think they're great! Those cosmetic dimples would really bug me, even though they aren't going to be a structural problem at all. I'm curious whether you're going to need to do any work on the bore and/or key slot after the brazing job?
Curious do you scan such a part in for archival purposes?
if its going to be painted fill the ugly with jb weld or body filler and sand to shape to make it pretty. that chunky finnish would drive me nuts
Could you use a hot plate to keep the heat in the part while welding?
I was taught torch valve down, far easier to adjust the flame and safer as far as where the flame is when adjusting it. My input from B&S apprenticeship.
I learned that from experience after finding my welding glove cuff would occasionally rub on the valve knobs, changing the flow of gas during my welding or brazing. Most annoying.
What do you use for the brazing rod ? Thanks for another awesome video.