Its great to see that there are still craftsman out there that take pride in their work, love the channel can't get enough of your videos - always a great help -Thanks
This video is nearly 3 years old now, (when I came across it) but it will still be just as relevant in 10 years time from now.That was such a great example of using the Starrett mitre gauge, and a fantastic explanation from you. Thank you so much man.
Richard, I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your talent and attention to detail. Both things are the mark of a true craftsman. Considering how long you've been doing this for a living, my guess is you keep pretty busy from just the referrals from your customers.
I've had that Starrett miter gauge for many years. Tho I'm a flooring guy, I couldn't get by without it. Never seen another gauge that compares. Great video. Fantastic work. 👍
Wow, what a review, great job highlighting this product. Great visual, no hand/body blocks. Voice was clear, and loud enough. I'm convinced and plan on giving this a try. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I purchased this and ended up returning it because the hinge had a lot of slop. It definitely did not live up to Starrett's reputation as a manufacturer of precision tools. I replaced it with the Lexivon aluminum one (which I realize was probably not available at the time this video was shot) and was very impressed by the build quality. You might want to give it a try if you haven't already.
Heres a helpful tip, when you have a piece of paint grade material always put some caulking on the edge of the base before you push it against the tub side. It helps seal the end from water, critical with m.d.f. Also since they are different materials they will expand and contract differently, causing a small gap the caulking will help lessen that.
The way you explained why you divided the number in half for the double cut, blew my mind. I had this tool when I did my basement a few years back and ended up almost running out of stock on a compound corner. That little tidbit was worth as much as the tool! Thanks man! Love your stuff.
Turned out beautiful and appreciated the information. I would have liked to see how you measured and made the corner piece for the bullnose. It makes for a fabulous, high end looking job. Thank you.
I use the Bosch digital protractor; it does what yours does but it also give you the perfect settings for cutting crown molding. I have used it on large jobs and had other crews tell me to slow down as to not make them look bad. It makes the job super simple and blazingly fast.
Bow do you go about finding angles on tiny pieces like quarter round and small wrap around areas? I find the t bevel and other protractor are top long to fit in these areas. I'm having trouble
Great video I can't see why you have people plotting thumbs down??...Ok a carpenter and this tool is a game changer from a hack handyman to a AAA professional
Yes, excellent addition to the tool box! Nice explanation my friend. I work on a lot of jobs where coping is not allowed due to customer preference and we gauge all the corners as we measure for length. We also glue every single joint we make. Using a mitre gauge mostly eliminates the need for test miters, especially with large crown mouldings.
I bought this to help when I am setting up a long (28' max) extension ladder to quickly verify that I have a 75 degree angle between the ground/floor and the ladder. I know it's overkill, but I had an uncle die as a result of a fall from such a ladder, so this tool puts my paranoia to rest. Nice to see in this video what purpose the tool was really designed for. Very professional; should be 100% thumbs up, especially since you include links to the glue and other tools you used in the video! Thanks!
Ok, I need to purchase one of these tools asap !!! Really enjoy watching your expertise on finish carpentry; learning so much. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Richard, thanks to you I now own the same protractor and bullnose corner gauge. My wife saw the protractor on my Amazon wishlist and ordered it for me.
Hi, I just wanted to say THANK YOU!!!!! I found this video a few days ago. I had to do this same style baseboard for a project i was working on. I purchased both tools and i have to say it was well worth it. My helper was so impressed, he's going to purchase a set. Again, Thank you...
I bought this tool, and its the bomb. I used to have to really sweat to get the corners even acceptable. Using this tool, I have really great corners now.
Your the man!. Love your videos and you have taught me a lot. take this as the slightest tip of constructive criticism. When I mark my boards for the cuts. I use my utility knife because it's even more accurate than a really sharp pencil.
Scott Brown carpentry just commented about you using this tool and he said he learned it from you he is in New Zealand I thought I'd pass that on to you
Excellent work. As a Painting contractor in south Florida I unfortunately rarely see this kind of craftsmanship. If I lived in your area I'd have to sell all of my calking stock. Keep up the good work.
The tool will actually show 46 degrees for a perfect 90 degrees corner. I thought it's broken at first, but it turned out to be an intentional feature. Many carpenters suggest to cut 46 degrees for 90 degrees corners. That way the trim will slightly push against the wall creating super-tight fit ("like a glove").
I really need to work on my miters. Between you and me, I just quickly pull the caulk out... I'm need experience in wood work. Thanks for sharing that. I'm learning heaps from you channel..
Yeah it’s a cool tool Iv been using mines for about 4 years now over here in Ireland 🇮🇪. I work with my old boy and he laughed at me when I used it first time because he’s old school and now he uses it every time himself 👍🏻👍🏻 great videos dude
@@adrianitis3750 hater talk haha. It is a cool tool and it can be used for professionals if they would choose to but to each their own it is a matter of opinion and preference. Still a cool tool
10,000 likes and 200 dislikes. I can only assume the 200 people are carpenters and are hating because I won’t be calling them cause thanks to this vid I will do the work myself thanks to this video. So I understand completely.
I’m gonna say it this guy is pimp he explains everything very simple clear and to the point.All other videos are crap don’t explain right and missing critical points.Thanks.
Out of all the tools I own this one is my ABSOLUTE favorite. It saves so much time and takes the guess work out of miters. A MUST HAVE if you are going to be doing finish carpentry! Thanks for watching!
Hi Richard. I am a recent subscriber and am considering switching careers and going into carpentry. I have enjoyed watching your vids and find them to be quite helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Did you go to a vocational school or basically learn on your own?
William Mead: Check his earlier videos. He has one video where he gives a talk to a high-school shop class about how he got started and advice for noobs starting out. It's a great video. Edit: found it: th-cam.com/video/tcrayR9oDuo/w-d-xo.html
Richard, excellent skills and video as usual but why use mdf in an environment with water? Washing that bathroom floor let alone an overflowing toilet and those moldings are trashed. Kitchens are also a non use mdf area. The Starret gauge is a great tool.
that 2 degree fix is amazing attention to detail! wish this channel was around 10 years ago when I did my home project. you don't see ANY 'finish carpenters' install that quality of work on new builds nowadays.... time is money. I don't even see coping on any new homes I've walked....all 45's with silicone bead on inside corners. too bad your company isn't local to Chicagoland, would hire u on my next project no hesitation. keep the informational videos coming..
"one of the greatest tools ever invented by man kind at any time in any place in the entire existence of humans on the face of the earth" good enough for me! just bought it
K00K, my sentiments, too. I LOATHE bullnoses corners. I see them as a mask to cover up lousy drywall workmanship where they couldn't make a proper corner fit.
Knock-downs (the drywall finish on the walls in this video) are hideous. They also make any repair to the wall a much more difficult job. But they weren't invented for the sake of the homeowner. They were invented for the sake of the drywall contractor that wants to hire cheap labor that doesn't have any idea what it's doing. Use of bullnose could easily be a sign that you are dealing with a drywall contractor that only works in production mode. Not quality mode. I've seen the bullnose used as far north as Ocean City, Maryland. That protractor is a great tool, however.
Nice video man...I am a painter and I apply coulking on baseboards and I notice many carpenters don't know how to cut baseboards, I have to fill with coulking big gaps. Thanks 👍.
I never thought of using CA glue on mitre joints until seeing your videos. I ordered some from you and received it just in time for a crown moulding project. It made the project so much easier. Thank you for your videos.
Gonna be that guy and say Its pronounced "Stair et". My family has worked for them for the past 80 years combined. I know it aint a big deal. Just that pride taking over.
Mike's Content when I was a 1st year apprentice in sheet metal I made the mistake of pronouncing it star et. Was corrected immediately and never said it again lol
Carpenter here. Great video. I’m getting the gauge! Gotta be a great time saver. Even the other piece against the tub it’s great to just get the angle instead of scribing it.
Congratulations on the baby by the way! Please please do a video on scribing long cuts. Your last video you had at least a 10’ long baseboard that rocked on a warped floor. You didn’t show how to fix that. I’m familiar with scribing but have never done it. Question, once installed and nailed in there are micro gaps at the tops of the baseboards due to the wall not being perfectly straight. Also micro gaps at the tops of the bullnose corners. To give a cleaner and tighter look, is the only solution caulking then paint? Thanks for all your tips and videos
Heres how I have learned to scribe base to match humps or dips in floors. If you have a hump, level the base so that you can transfer the hump. To simplify it... if you have 5/16 of a gap on the left of the high spot and 5/8 on the right. Set a scribe to 5/8 of an inch start on the right and mark to the left. Cut the waste side of the line and either belt sand or hand plane to the line to make a cut that matches the floor perfectly. Fast cap accu-scribe are a life saver. They have made 2 variations, are well worth the 13-20 dollars they cost.
I do base in sections as a complete, uninterrupted run. So if the base starts at the edge of door casing, turns an inside corner, then an outside corner then stops at a door casing I would cut to length and dry fit for length all those pieces together. That would be a complete run. Cut everything to length and do a dry fit and temporarily tape together any outside miters to keep them from falling. I shim the ends of each piece so the top of each piece is perfectly flush with the one next to it and so that any outside miters are closed. Longer pieces might require a 3rd shim in the middle if they sag. Narrow shims are best so they don't interfere with your scribe. Unless there are fabric panels or some other wall treatment that's going to sit on top of your base and it needs to be level most base doesn't need to be dead nuts level. Generally if there's a fat hump in the middle of a wall I split the difference, but each situation is different. For marking/scribing, and especially for stain grade, I prefer to use masking tape or green painter's tape and a .5mm ink ball type pen in a Home Cheapo compass, it gives a very thin but clear line for jig sawing or freehanding on a table saw and then belt sanding or block planing. For high end residential with somewhat bumpy solid oak floors, (high end as in $550 toilet paper holders in each crapper), I'll remove the ink cartridge of a pen and hot glue it in a small block of wood. If for some reason there's a seam in the floor planks within an inch or 2 it can throw off your scribe if you're using a compass or any of those larger expensive scribing tools. Also, the base might be sitting on a small natural bump but that bump might not extend all the way out to where your big ol' scribing tool is riding. No Bueno! A small block of wood with a hole and a pen in it and some hot glue to secure it is your best bet for bumpy, uneven floors. Like a small chunk of MDF that's 1/2"x1/2"x1" with a hole for the pen cartridge about 3/8" up, or positioned wherever you need. There's a million tricks, and that's just for wall base.
Have been using that Starrett tool for months. Think I bought mine back in December. I’ve always loved Starrett. I come from the machinist trade and I have nothing but Starrett American made machinist tools. So when I saw this one day...I didn’t hesitate!
Pretty sure Starrett's stock was, and will continue to be, just fine with or without this or any other video. They've only been around for about 150 years.
Love the old trick with two blocks where you draw the lines and connect them then know what the bisected angle is on your mitersaw. The pros will know what I’m talking about here. Not as quick as a protractor but helps a ton when you forget it.
Have you done a coping video? Basic mdf is easier I've just redid half my house with wood similar to this material and couldn't get it right lol. Your skills are phenomenal by the way
There are several good coping vids on TH-cam. Try to watch as many as possible. A hand coping saw is good but a Collins coping foot is really good if you've got a lot to do. Also, a round file, about 3/8" thick and a small triangular shaped file is good for precise coped joints.
All my coping I use a cordless angle grinder with 36 grit sanding disks. Then fine tune it by hand with sandpaper as needed. It you have to take out a lot of material, back cut the cope with the miter saw, they cope with the grinder. It's super fast
I didn't hear him mention a glue. On another video showcasing this miter tool the person used LePage 10 minute Wood Glue for its quick drying ability while doing miters.
I guess Im old. We called that a scribe fit. Tradesman been doing this for hundreds of years. Also, just as important, is the technique where you glue up first, then nail. Nailing that turn as one piece makes the difference.
Speaking of gluing up first, last year I had the opportunity to use a set of Jim Chestnut's clam clamps for door and window casing. At first I was skeptical because of the 4 pin holes it leaves in the finish, but now after using them, in the words of the Monkeys, I'm a believer. Have you ever used them?
Yup, it’s a waste of money to me to buy that tool I’ll loose that tool really quick because I won’t need it since I already knew how off it was by looking at it
FEARLESS IS WHAT YOU ARE. SHARING WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED WITH THE REST OF US IS AWESOME. SOME HUMANS WOULD HAVE YOU LEARN THE HARD WAY. THANK YOU. BEYOND SELF AND TIMELESS.
Same angle as figured. if the "double cut" reading is 46 degrees.... and you're bullnosing.... then each of the four cuts for the corner are half of 46 = 23 degrees. Old school way would be to just use the bevel and a square... bisect the angles down from original reading.... like set the bevel for he wall's angle... then put the bevel on the straight edge of a scrap of wood, mark a line. Use the framing square's width to mark a parallel line to that one (a line the width of the framing square, parallel with the line marked from set bevel). Then mark another line using the width of the framing square, parallel with the straight edge of the scrap...so you're making a crooked square. Then set the bevel diagonal across that square and you have your angle for a regular miter. To bullnose, just repeat that process, and bisect that angle.... then use the bevel to set your saw blade. This tool would be quicker and easier.... but that's how you would do it without a tool like that, just using a bevel and get same accurate angles.
I think I would use a digital micometer, and measure between the two lines made with the bullnose gauge, that would give you the length of the back of the baseboard. Then cut your mitres outward from that.
As a thank you to you and your team I am going on amazon through your links in your description(s) to buy a few things. This is my way of saying thank you for putting this video(s) together for us. What I mostly appreciate about you is how you explain in very simple way. I’m also impressed with how you can record yourself and how clear your videos come out. Thanks again.
Its great to see that there are still craftsman out there that take pride in their work, love the channel can't get enough of your videos - always a great help -Thanks
When you made that 2 degree cut and slid that wood in all tight...I fell in love. Just bought the protractor, thanks for the vid!
Lol, I literally just said, welp I’m sold on it.
Same here, as soon as I saw that cut - on Amazon ordering now.
This video is nearly 3 years old now, (when I came across it) but it will still be just as relevant in 10 years time from now.That was such a great example of using the Starrett mitre gauge, and a fantastic explanation from you. Thank you so much man.
What kind of weirdo shares a TH-cam account Howard & bec dove 🤣🤣🤣
Never use MDF in wet areas!
Just watching it now!
I’m was in the business 40 years .....and I LOVE this Kid ! Looking back I wish I had 10 guys like him 👍😎
Richard,
I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your talent and attention to detail. Both things are the mark of a true craftsman. Considering how long you've been doing this for a living, my guess is you keep pretty busy from just the referrals from your customers.
THANK YOU. Nothing is 90 degrees in my old house. You have shown me the way.
I've had that Starrett miter gauge for many years. Tho I'm a flooring guy, I couldn't get by without it. Never seen another gauge that compares.
Great video. Fantastic work. 👍
Wow, what a review, great job highlighting this product. Great visual, no hand/body blocks. Voice was clear, and loud enough. I'm convinced and plan on giving this a try. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
5:54 "The tighter it is the better."
I completely agree
Fit's&Tight ! :D
I purchased this and ended up returning it because the hinge had a lot of slop. It definitely did not live up to Starrett's reputation as a manufacturer of precision tools. I replaced it with the Lexivon aluminum one (which I realize was probably not available at the time this video was shot) and was very impressed by the build quality. You might want to give it a try if you haven't already.
Heres a helpful tip, when you have a piece of paint grade material always put some caulking on the edge of the base before you push it against the tub side. It helps seal the end from water, critical with m.d.f. Also since they are different materials they will expand and contract differently, causing a small gap the caulking will help lessen that.
The way you explained why you divided the number in half for the double cut, blew my mind. I had this tool when I did my basement a few years back and ended up almost running out of stock on a compound corner. That little tidbit was worth as much as the tool! Thanks man! Love your stuff.
Turned out beautiful and appreciated the information. I would have liked to see how you measured and made the corner piece for the bullnose. It makes for a fabulous, high end looking job. Thank you.
Id pay good money to have a finish carpenter like this guy, its all about attention to detail!! Well done brother!!
I use the Bosch digital protractor; it does what yours does but it also give you the perfect settings for cutting crown molding. I have used it on large jobs and had other crews tell me to slow down as to not make them look bad. It makes the job super simple and blazingly fast.
Bow do you go about finding angles on tiny pieces like quarter round and small wrap around areas? I find the t bevel and other protractor are top long to fit in these areas. I'm having trouble
You are the BEST: Clear as any instructions can be; thank you for ALL videos!
Great video
I can't see why you have people plotting thumbs down??...Ok a carpenter and this tool is a game changer from a hack handyman to a AAA professional
Yes, excellent addition to the tool box! Nice explanation my friend.
I work on a lot of jobs where coping is not allowed due to customer preference and we gauge all the corners as we measure for length. We also glue every single joint we make.
Using a mitre gauge mostly eliminates the need for test miters, especially with large crown mouldings.
Heck of a final description at the very end. Amazon here I come. You do such a wonderful job
I bought this to help when I am setting up a long (28' max) extension ladder to quickly verify that I have a 75 degree angle between the ground/floor and the ladder. I know it's overkill, but I had an uncle die as a result of a fall from such a ladder, so this tool puts my paranoia to rest. Nice to see in this video what purpose the tool was really designed for. Very professional; should be 100% thumbs up, especially since you include links to the glue and other tools you used in the video! Thanks!
Went strait to amazon and bought it, thanks for the great tip.
Just ordered one of these tools. Your video is the clearest explanation of using one I could find. Great job, thank you. Subscribed.
Ok, I need to purchase one of these tools asap !!! Really enjoy watching your expertise on finish carpentry; learning so much. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Richard, thanks to you I now own the same protractor and bullnose corner gauge. My wife saw the protractor on my Amazon wishlist and ordered it for me.
Hi,
I just wanted to say THANK YOU!!!!!
I found this video a few days ago. I had to do this same style baseboard for a project i was working on. I purchased both tools and i have to say it was well worth it. My helper was so impressed, he's going to purchase a set.
Again, Thank you...
Just learning how to do this stuff. Once I learned how to make it tight it was a beautiful thing!
It is so good to see a perfectionist at work! I enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing.
Wonderful workmanship by a true craftsman.
If there was ever a recommendation for the greatest tool on Earth, this was it
I bought this tool, and its the bomb. I used to have to really sweat to get the corners even acceptable. Using this tool, I have really great corners now.
Thanks for sharing your finish carpentry favorite tool. I'll have to get one!
great job,your cuts are very good it showed the not so square,not so flat flaws of the wall its self.
Your the man!. Love your videos and you have taught me a lot. take this as the slightest tip of constructive criticism. When I mark my boards for the cuts. I use my utility knife because it's even more accurate than a really sharp pencil.
You're vs your. Check it out.
@@ThekiBoranyou missed taught ?
I love watching you do bullnose corners you were so precise and accurate and it’s so tight.
Scott Brown carpentry just commented about you using this tool and he said he learned it from you he is in New Zealand I thought I'd pass that on to you
I watch Scott brown all the time such a great channel
Picked up one a couple of years ago and I use it quite often, I'm not a pro but it makes it easier to get a project done.
Holy heck! This'll save having to use painter's caulk for all those "almost" miters. Thanks.
Ahaha
A carpenter's buddy is a painters caulk lol
Do your best caulk the rest!
Caulking is key to a pro paint job. Your corners can be tight as hell but paint will not hold that miter doing expansion.
SOLD!
Great video! I'm glad we have people like you in construction. You get the job done right!
wow!! you did it so clean and perfect! combination of tools & skill will make something like that. Thanks for sharing that with us. Good job man
Good looking trim job! The best craftsmanship I've seen. You don't do work that relies upon a painter going behind you to hide and fill horrid gaps.
I have this tool about 3 months. Don't know how I managed for last 30 years without it.
Tony Grace exactly my thoughts!
Probably with many tubes of painters caulk
Lol just plenty of trips back and forth to the saw 🤣😂
Excellent work. As a Painting contractor in south Florida I unfortunately rarely see this kind of craftsmanship. If I lived in your area I'd have to sell all of my calking stock. Keep up the good work.
The tool will actually show 46 degrees for a perfect 90 degrees corner. I thought it's broken at first, but it turned out to be an intentional feature. Many carpenters suggest to cut 46 degrees for 90 degrees corners. That way the trim will slightly push against the wall creating super-tight fit ("like a glove").
That's an awesome tip. Thanks!
Thanks, I thought mine was defective since they didn’t line up and I couldn’t find a way to adjust it.
You’re an amazing craftsman. Love seeing your work and thanks for helping us homegamers.
That was an absolutely amazingly thorough how-to!
Could you show us how you made the 2 degree cut next to the tub . Thanks
I really need to work on my miters. Between you and me, I just quickly pull the caulk out...
I'm need experience in wood work.
Thanks for sharing that. I'm learning heaps from you channel..
A little caulk and paint makes a carpenter what he ain't!!! :-)
That was an absolutely delicious fit. I Just bought one lol
Just added it to my buying soon list!
Yeah it’s a cool tool Iv been using mines for about 4 years now over here in Ireland 🇮🇪. I work with my old boy and he laughed at me when I used it first time because he’s old school and now he uses it every time himself 👍🏻👍🏻 great videos dude
How can anyone not like this! Unfortunately, there's always gonna be haters out there.
I'm a carpenter, not a hater. :-)
Just direct them to that taylor swift song and move on
Waste of time took to me but good for diy people and I’m assuming you’re one of them
@@adrianitis3750 hater talk haha. It is a cool tool and it can be used for professionals if they would choose to but to each their own it is a matter of opinion and preference. Still a cool tool
10,000 likes and 200 dislikes. I can only assume the 200 people are carpenters and are hating because I won’t be calling them cause thanks to this vid I will do the work myself thanks to this video. So I understand completely.
I’m gonna say it this guy is pimp he explains everything very simple clear and to the point.All other videos are crap don’t explain right and missing critical points.Thanks.
Out of all the tools I own this one is my ABSOLUTE favorite. It saves so much time and takes the guess work out of miters. A MUST HAVE if you are going to be doing finish carpentry! Thanks for watching!
Hi Richard. I am a recent subscriber and am considering switching careers and going into carpentry. I have enjoyed watching your vids and find them to be quite helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Did you go to a vocational school or basically learn on your own?
William Mead: Check his earlier videos. He has one video where he gives a talk to a high-school shop class about how he got started and advice for noobs starting out. It's a great video. Edit: found it: th-cam.com/video/tcrayR9oDuo/w-d-xo.html
Finish Carpentry TV good video, what kind of glue is that?
I got that tool 5yrs ago. Never knew how to do the single cut option until today lol
awesome tool ! what kind of glue are you using?
Atrue representation of skill and craftsmanship, all these little things is what makes the diffrence, good job man.
Richard, excellent skills and video as usual but why use mdf in an environment with water? Washing that bathroom floor let alone an overflowing toilet and those moldings are trashed. Kitchens are also a non use mdf area. The Starret gauge is a great tool.
Great point Mr. Clint Price!!!! In my house that I did not build, the builder used MDF ALL over including the bath and kitchen areas. Poor decision!
What should you use in those areas?
Good question, I would try to use poplar, or clear pine, or paint grade maple. Something that is more water resistant.
But then he can’t charge to redo it lol jk
that 2 degree fix is amazing attention to detail! wish this channel was around 10 years ago when I did my home project. you don't see ANY 'finish carpenters' install that quality of work on new builds nowadays.... time is money. I don't even see coping on any new homes I've walked....all 45's with silicone bead on inside corners. too bad your company isn't local to Chicagoland, would hire u on my next project no hesitation. keep the informational videos coming..
"one of the greatest tools ever invented by man kind at any time in any place in the entire existence of humans on the face of the earth"
good enough for me! just bought it
smokingcheeba420 yeah it was on the history channel. Ancient aliens brought this technology and blessed man kind with it
@Joe T
They also used plumb roberts, I mean plumb bobs.
Me too!
Just ordered from Amazon. 18 bucks! Thanks Trim Meister
So thankful that bullnoses are not a thing here in the northeast.
K00K, my sentiments, too. I LOATHE bullnoses corners. I see them as a mask to cover up lousy drywall workmanship where they couldn't make a proper corner fit.
Not a big deal just a thang bullnose is actually pretty simple
At least once a day I spend time ripping out bullnose corners and flushing them out with angle beads. Old fashioned!
Knock-downs (the drywall finish on the walls in this video) are hideous. They also make any repair to the wall a much more difficult job. But they weren't invented for the sake of the homeowner. They were invented for the sake of the drywall contractor that wants to hire cheap labor that doesn't have any idea what it's doing. Use of bullnose could easily be a sign that you are dealing with a drywall contractor that only works in production mode. Not quality mode.
I've seen the bullnose used as far north as Ocean City, Maryland. That protractor is a great tool, however.
This is interesting. In Colorado, I find bullnose in more of the “higher end” houses and square corners in everything below.
Nice video man...I am a painter and I apply coulking on baseboards and I notice many carpenters don't know how to cut baseboards,
I have to fill with coulking big gaps.
Thanks 👍.
Hi from Australia great video, what sort of glue did you use?
I just bought that tool right away on Amazon
I never thought of using CA glue on mitre joints until seeing your videos. I ordered some from you and received it just in time for a crown moulding project. It made the project so much easier. Thank you for your videos.
Gonna be that guy and say Its pronounced "Stair et". My family has worked for them for the past 80 years combined. I know it aint a big deal. Just that pride taking over.
Better you than me.
Mike's Content when I was a 1st year apprentice in sheet metal I made the mistake of pronouncing it star et. Was corrected immediately and never said it again lol
Robbie Vigil haha sometimes.
matt smejek oh yeah in my house we only heard one way.
@@Robbievigil
Ditto.
I know this video is a year old but I just found it. Your videos are amazing and demonstrated with great humility. Thank you for these terrific tips.
Dude, just found your channel and absolutely love your videos. Great tips here; you make it so easy. Nice job!
Carpenter here. Great video. I’m getting the gauge! Gotta be a great time saver. Even the other piece against the tub it’s great to just get the angle instead of scribing it.
good job bro, helpful tool !!!
Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to post this stuff.
what's the name of that wood glue, can it be used out doors?
Outstanding craftsmanship. Master tradesman.
He's good! Imagine how good he'd be if he used both hands!
That coped corner is NICE! Thanks for the tips.
Congratulations on the baby by the way!
Please please do a video on scribing long cuts. Your last video you had at least a 10’ long baseboard that rocked on a warped floor. You didn’t show how to fix that. I’m familiar with scribing but have never done it.
Question, once installed and nailed in there are micro gaps at the tops of the baseboards due to the wall not being perfectly straight. Also micro gaps at the tops of the bullnose corners. To give a cleaner and tighter look, is the only solution caulking then paint?
Thanks for all your tips and videos
I was going to comment this as well. Any tips for a long run of base when theres a hump in the floor? Loving these baseboard vids!!!
Heres how I have learned to scribe base to match humps or dips in floors. If you have a hump, level the base so that you can transfer the hump. To simplify it... if you have 5/16 of a gap on the left of the high spot and 5/8 on the right. Set a scribe to 5/8 of an inch start on the right and mark to the left. Cut the waste side of the line and either belt sand or hand plane to the line to make a cut that matches the floor perfectly. Fast cap accu-scribe are a life saver. They have made 2 variations, are well worth the 13-20 dollars they cost.
I do base in sections as a complete, uninterrupted run. So if the base starts at the edge of door casing, turns an inside corner, then an outside corner then stops at a door casing I would cut to length and dry fit for length all those pieces together. That would be a complete run. Cut everything to length and do a dry fit and temporarily tape together any outside miters to keep them from falling. I shim the ends of each piece so the top of each piece is perfectly flush with the one next to it and so that any outside miters are closed. Longer pieces might require a 3rd shim in the middle if they sag. Narrow shims are best so they don't interfere with your scribe. Unless there are fabric panels or some other wall treatment that's going to sit on top of your base and it needs to be level most base doesn't need to be dead nuts level. Generally if there's a fat hump in the middle of a wall I split the difference, but each situation is different. For marking/scribing, and especially for stain grade, I prefer to use masking tape or green painter's tape and a .5mm ink ball type pen in a Home Cheapo compass, it gives a very thin but clear line for jig sawing or freehanding on a table saw and then belt sanding or block planing. For high end residential with somewhat bumpy solid oak floors, (high end as in $550 toilet paper holders in each crapper), I'll remove the ink cartridge of a pen and hot glue it in a small block of wood. If for some reason there's a seam in the floor planks within an inch or 2 it can throw off your scribe if you're using a compass or any of those larger expensive scribing tools. Also, the base might be sitting on a small natural bump but that bump might not extend all the way out to where your big ol' scribing tool is riding. No Bueno! A small block of wood with a hole and a pen in it and some hot glue to secure it is your best bet for bumpy, uneven floors. Like a small chunk of MDF that's 1/2"x1/2"x1" with a hole for the pen cartridge about 3/8" up, or positioned wherever you need. There's a million tricks, and that's just for wall base.
Have been using that Starrett tool for months. Think I bought mine back in December. I’ve always loved Starrett. I come from the machinist trade and I have nothing but Starrett American made machinist tools. So when I saw this one day...I didn’t hesitate!
You are one Bad Ass carpenter!
BOOM! You sold me on this tool!! Great work Sir!!
I am going to Walmart to go buy one !
You ain't buying that tool at Walmart
Got one of those, absolutely brilliant, spot on every time
this tool maker's stock (SCX) went up over 2% today due to this video...
Pretty sure Starrett's stock was, and will continue to be, just fine with or without this or any other video. They've only been around for about 150 years.
Still Worth IT!!! The results prove It!!!
I sure bought one..lol
Love the old trick with two blocks where you draw the lines and connect them then know what the bisected angle is on your mitersaw. The pros will know what I’m talking about here. Not as quick as a protractor but helps a ton when you forget it.
"The tighter it is the better anyways" Amen.
This video is pure gold! I just tried installing baseboard this weekend and it was a headache! Thank you for sharing
Have you done a coping video? Basic mdf is easier I've just redid half my house with wood similar to this material and couldn't get it right lol. Your skills are phenomenal by the way
There are several good coping vids on TH-cam. Try to watch as many as possible. A hand coping saw is good but a Collins coping foot is really good if you've got a lot to do. Also, a round file, about 3/8" thick and a small triangular shaped file is good for precise coped joints.
Wud Dude I would be lost without my Nicholson 4 way
All my coping I use a cordless angle grinder with 36 grit sanding disks. Then fine tune it by hand with sandpaper as needed. It you have to take out a lot of material, back cut the cope with the miter saw, they cope with the grinder. It's super fast
Nice work. Thanks for the video. I have just now discovered this amazing tool, and didn't quite understand how to use it.
"Do your best. Calk the rest."
Haven't heard that one. LOL!
Caulk and paint make it what it ain't
fuck it that’ll do...... not my house 😂
I know a painter who can fix it!
fakeittillyoumakeit
Best bullnose corner vid I have found. Thanks!
- Another great piece of work & demo. What brand of glues do you use ???
I didn't hear him mention a glue. On another video showcasing this miter tool the person used LePage 10 minute Wood Glue for its quick drying ability while doing miters.
It's a cyanoacrylate. It's essentially the same thing as "Super Glue" but he's using a gel version.
Yep it’s an awesome tool. I would have figured you were using it a long time ago. That wall board has a pretty good warp in it.
The tool definitely helps, but you are a craftsman
impressed with the glue, workmanship 100% as well thanks
I guess Im old. We called that a scribe fit. Tradesman been doing this for hundreds of years. Also, just as important, is the technique where you glue up first, then nail. Nailing that turn as one piece makes the difference.
James Myers Sr. Yep i was going to say the same I'm only 30 and i scribe all my internal joins. I can see how it would be good for external corners.
Speaking of gluing up first, last year I had the opportunity to use a set of Jim Chestnut's clam clamps for door and window casing. At first I was skeptical because of the 4 pin holes it leaves in the finish, but now after using them, in the words of the Monkeys, I'm a believer. Have you ever used them?
Yup, it’s a waste of money to me to buy that tool I’ll loose that tool really quick because I won’t need it since I already knew how off it was by looking at it
Pure craftsmanship mate. Great stuff.
What glue are you using ? How fast does it set?
CA Glue with a liquid spray activator. 3-5 seconds it’s set up so practice the placement of the meters before you apply it
To late found it bro lol love it
I bought this tool when you first released this video. Thanks!
Let’s start a GoFundMe page to get Richard a GoPro so he can use both hands while filming!
FEARLESS IS WHAT YOU ARE. SHARING WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED WITH THE REST OF US IS AWESOME. SOME HUMANS WOULD HAVE YOU LEARN THE HARD WAY. THANK YOU. BEYOND SELF AND TIMELESS.
Enjoyed the video but, how do you measure for the small corner piece for the bullnose?
Same angle as figured. if the "double cut" reading is 46 degrees.... and you're bullnosing.... then each of the four cuts for the corner are half of 46 = 23 degrees. Old school way would be to just use the bevel and a square... bisect the angles down from original reading.... like set the bevel for he wall's angle... then put the bevel on the straight edge of a scrap of wood, mark a line. Use the framing square's width to mark a parallel line to that one (a line the width of the framing square, parallel with the line marked from set bevel). Then mark another line using the width of the framing square, parallel with the straight edge of the scrap...so you're making a crooked square. Then set the bevel diagonal across that square and you have your angle for a regular miter. To bullnose, just repeat that process, and bisect that angle.... then use the bevel to set your saw blade. This tool would be quicker and easier.... but that's how you would do it without a tool like that, just using a bevel and get same accurate angles.
I think I would use a digital micometer, and measure between the two lines made with the bullnose gauge, that would give you the length of the back of the baseboard. Then cut your mitres outward from that.
that was also a great how to video on how to do base boards! short and to the point without over explaining the basics. that gauge is a must-buy.
What kind of glue are you using?
CA Glue - essentially a super glue with a spray activator to harden quicker.
As a thank you to you and your team I am going on amazon through your links in your description(s) to buy a few things. This is my way of saying thank you for putting this video(s) together for us. What I mostly appreciate about you is how you explain in very simple way. I’m also impressed with how you can record yourself and how clear your videos come out. Thanks again.
nice work cool tool, but MDF trim gets ruined in bathrooms from the moisture, especially near tubs.
Home Depot has matching waterproof base board trim for wet areas. I've used it before and love it.
Good point, Giter Dun. I wouldn't use MDF anywhere close to water. TBH I wouldn't use it period, but that's just me.
something about watching you do this stuff is so captivating.