I own a Starrett Miter Saw Protractor and find them difficult to see as well. So small they had to combine 2 degrees into 1 increment. Sawset Pro is the way to go. Thanks for your honest review.
Thanks for this video. I've been using an old fashioned non-ditital T-bevel for a couple decades and wondered on the digital version and I'm so glad I've not purchased one and never will. While the idea of digital seems a great idea at first, if it ever goes out you're going to get wrong measurements. I've used my non-digital version very successfully over the years transferring angles to wood. I've recently bought a mitre protractor (mine's a plastic Starrett brand) and the great thing about a solid item with clear static markings, as long as the markings are on target (and you'll soon find out if they're not) as long as the tool is used properly, you'll get consistent measurements. This goes for the Sawset Protractor - static markings and you can use this with a standard T-bevel which to me, makes it a winner as well.
You missed a point with digital T-bevel. You can't use the angle it shows directly on the miter saw. You need to subtract it from 180 and then divide it by 2 to get the correct value. In this case, you got 86.3, you need to do this: 180 - 86.3 = 93.7 Then divide 93.7 by 2 which gives you 46.85 which is almost the same as the 47 that you got from Saker.
@SawsetTools saw set may be accurate but it's a complimentary tool like you can't use if without buying a Tbevel my choice would be saker no math either tells you single cut and the miter cut accurately
Excellent video. I am getting into building bar top arcade cabinets, and they do have in some places some pretty odd angles that need to be cut on the MDF. I saw a demo of that Sawset Pro and it looked pretty interesting. I will never regret buying it. It works absolutely perfectly each and every time. It is really well built too, should last a very long time if you take care of it. Nice to know it can be used for baseboards too.
i tend to think (at least for me) that one of the reasons the saker pro is hard to read is the white numbers/markings against the black background. i found a black on white version and seems much easier to read. have you ever been on a website that had all black background with white text? kinda hard to read. jmo.
Great comparison. Because the stucco on the wall was so uneven, it could have skewed things depending on where the tools were placed. Might have been more accurate if you'd built an inside and outside corner out of plywood (where one was at 45 and the other was off by a degree or two) and then checked the angle with each of the tools, Regardless, very helpful.
What is the best way to make sure your miter saw is set to the exact correct angles? I am suspecting that mine needs adjusting and I'm not sure which is the "best" tool to make sure the 45° cuts are perfect. I build picture frames for artwork.
All? Really??? The digital T-bevel had a massive gap on the outside and you want to fill that with caulk? I hope someone employing you shows you why this is a bad idea...
your mitre saw is set at 90 when it is at o degree. all your angles are wrong, 90 degrees means 90 degree not 0 degrees, google how the mitre saw protractor is wrong.
I own a Starrett Miter Saw Protractor and find them difficult to see as well. So small they had to combine 2 degrees into 1 increment. Sawset Pro is the way to go. Thanks for your honest review.
The Bora is kinda like the one Festool provides with their Capex miter saw.
Thanks for this video. I've been using an old fashioned non-ditital T-bevel for a couple decades and wondered on the digital version and I'm so glad I've not purchased one and never will. While the idea of digital seems a great idea at first, if it ever goes out you're going to get wrong measurements. I've used my non-digital version very successfully over the years transferring angles to wood. I've recently bought a mitre protractor (mine's a plastic Starrett brand) and the great thing about a solid item with clear static markings, as long as the markings are on target (and you'll soon find out if they're not) as long as the tool is used properly, you'll get consistent measurements. This goes for the Sawset Protractor - static markings and you can use this with a standard T-bevel which to me, makes it a winner as well.
You missed a point with digital T-bevel. You can't use the angle it shows directly on the miter saw. You need to subtract it from 180 and then divide it by 2 to get the correct value. In this case, you got 86.3, you need to do this: 180 - 86.3 = 93.7
Then divide 93.7 by 2 which gives you 46.85 which is almost the same as the 47 that you got from Saker.
Sawset, there is no math, ever, and more accurate.
@SawsetTools saw set may be accurate but it's a complimentary tool like you can't use if without buying a Tbevel my choice would be saker no math either tells you single cut and the miter cut accurately
Thank you for stopping me from making a mistake
Excellent comparison. Thanks!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
You did a great job explaining the toos. I had bought the saker but now thinking about getting the sawset pro also. Thanks for your help.
Great Choice! Accuracy Matters!
Excellent video. I am getting into building bar top arcade cabinets, and they do have in some places some pretty odd angles that need to be cut on the MDF. I saw a demo of that Sawset Pro and it looked pretty interesting. I will never regret buying it. It works absolutely perfectly each and every time. It is really well built too, should last a very long time if you take care of it. Nice to know it can be used for baseboards too.
i tend to think (at least for me) that one of the reasons the saker pro is hard to read is the white numbers/markings against the black background. i found a black on white version and seems much easier to read. have you ever been on a website that had all black background with white text? kinda hard to read. jmo.
Your video helped me decide. Thanks
I’m glad I could be of help! Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Great content bro
Great comparison. Because the stucco on the wall was so uneven, it could have skewed things depending on where the tools were placed. Might have been more accurate if you'd built an inside and outside corner out of plywood (where one was at 45 and the other was off by a degree or two) and then checked the angle with each of the tools, Regardless, very helpful.
Agree.
I thought the same thing.
very good video for sure, thank you...
Appreciate the video. Too bad you didn’t include the milescraft angle finder.
Thanks for the comparison. I've got the Sawset Pro with a good t-bevel and I also own the Saker.
Quite good but no Digital angle finders here, only 3. Let's hope you'll cover others too. But thanks for this one.
What is the best way to make sure your miter saw is set to the exact correct angles? I am suspecting that mine needs adjusting and I'm not sure which is the "best" tool to make sure the 45° cuts are perfect. I build picture frames for artwork.
Hi Robert! Thank you for the love and support! Please stay tuned! I’ll make a video on this and put this on my to do list this week 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Why is the Sawset Pro not flat all the way across the bottom?
The Sawset has a bumper to stop the Tbevel.
They all look perfect. Nothing caulking can’t fix
All? Really??? The digital T-bevel had a massive gap on the outside and you want to fill that with caulk? I hope someone employing you shows you why this is a bad idea...
As a beginner, I dont understand how you read 44.5° 1:52. Difficult for me to see where that reading comes from.
I see 46.5°
I see 46.5°
I see 46.5°
your mitre saw is set at 90 when it is at o degree. all your angles are wrong, 90 degrees means 90 degree not 0 degrees, google how the mitre saw protractor is wrong.
That's why no good carpenter ever uses a miter saw. 🙄
None of these joints are accurate
Define accurate.