nah your spot on I'm making all my own stuff....from bench pegs to an experimental (its got to be better than the plastic ones) wire bending jig. This is great!
great idea to show us how to make tool's. as an amateur learning the rope's i have found it really expensive to set up. i believe an Allen wrench would also make a great scoring tool once modified. thank's and regards.
Thanks Andrew, another very helpful vid, (yes I know it was ages ago but new to me lol) I'd just like to add a word of caution for anyone new to these things. When David was using the cutting/grinding disc in his Pendant Motor to create the 45-degree angle on the tang he was using the flat side of the disc albeit with very little pressure! but the makers of these discs specifically warn against using it like this as it's not what it was designed to do and a bit too much pressure would cause the disc to shatter and even with eye protection (as always) could still embed fragments of shrapnel into your lovely soft face! Ps David was using the thicker disc (they come in various thicknesses, some being very thin which would shatter with very little pressure) David has a vast amount of experience and has probably forgotten more than I know lol but when NEW to this type of thing and using high-speed tools/equipment SAFETY is paramount! Sorry for the length of this post ;)
Actually coming to think about it, I was in one of those shops (beside my bus stop lol) filling in time just yesterday and I found a lovely little kit for wood carving, there's around six tools with different ends and there's one looks just like the scoring tool you are making. .They look and feel pretty well made but as I haven't used them yet I can't say definitively that the one that looks like your tool would score copper and silver but I will give it a try and I will make one like you're making and I will let you know how my £1.50 kit tool measures up. (thats £1.50 divided by six lol) told you, Scottish, bargains etc.
Actually you have confused me with the heating. .I thought heating was annealing the metal and would soften it as you do when it becomes work hardened and you need to re soften it. Now I'm just starting out training myself (I've been making jewellery for ages but have only recently decided to go all the way and learn how to forge and all the hot work that used to intimidate me...can you explain this? )
I know it's an year old comment, but for future viewers: he's heat treating the steel. You can't do that with most other metals, it works with carbon steel and a few other alloys because of their composition. The first step is hardening. First getting the metal hot enough (it varies for different steels, you can check with a magnet and heat until it's non-magnetic to be sure), and then cooling it fast. The quenching of small tools like this is usually done in cool water, but oil and brine are also used (again, depends on the alloy and size, but for small things a fast cooling is better, so water is usually good). Hardening leaves the metal very hard, but also brittle. As is, the tip will chip or the tool crack. The second step is tempering (beware that in the video he didn't see the color because of the lights, so he overheated the piece). You reheat the metal, but below red. For cutting tools like this one, the right temperature is around when steal forms a pale yellow oxide layer. Sand it to see the color, and heat it slowly. Then quench it to stop it from getting softer. Colors go from pale yellow-straw-purple to blue. Blue is softer, for things that need to support striking and bending, good for the center of hand tools, etc. Harder things, like the tip of the tool in a chisel or scribe, should be somewhere between pale yellow to straw.
PS, to anneal you also heat red, but let it air cool. He said it wasn't needed because that end of the file was already soft (it usually is, so it doesn't break inside the handle)
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Am I the only one who feels like they were left hanging and really wanted to see Andrew bend the copper together?!?!! Nope, just me? Okay ;)
I'm going to pop into our charity shops tomorrow while the girls are out on their scooters, to get me some old files hammers etc. Thanks Andrew.
Super! Thank you!❤
Very similar to the process you would use to make a graver from scrap tool or oil hardening steel. Good vid.
Thank you! I would LOVE more tool making videos! Thank you for all you do!
Thank you for these!
Well done Andrew, you explained it very well!
Very helpful, thanks!
Thank you is a super Idee i lovet thank you
nah your spot on I'm making all my own stuff....from bench pegs to an experimental (its got to be better than the plastic ones) wire bending jig. This is great!
great idea to show us how to make tool's. as an amateur learning the rope's i have found it really expensive to set up. i believe an Allen wrench would also make a great scoring tool once modified. thank's and regards.
Thanks Andrew!
Thanks Andrew, another very helpful vid, (yes I know it was ages ago but new to me lol)
I'd just like to add a word of caution for anyone new to these things.
When David was using the cutting/grinding disc in his Pendant Motor to create the 45-degree angle on the tang he was using the flat side of the disc albeit with very little pressure! but the makers of these discs specifically warn against using it like this as it's not what it was designed to do and a bit too much pressure would cause the disc to shatter and even with eye protection (as always) could still embed fragments of shrapnel into your lovely soft face! Ps David was using the thicker disc (they come in various thicknesses, some being very thin which would shatter with very little pressure)
David has a vast amount of experience and has probably forgotten more than I know lol but when NEW to this type of thing and using high-speed tools/equipment SAFETY is paramount! Sorry for the length of this post ;)
Who's David?
When using the side of a silicone carbide wheel as a grinder, the wheels last much longer if you stack 3 to prevent breakage.
Great idea Steve. Thanks.
You aren’t lazy, you’re efficient.
Actually coming to think about it, I was in one of those shops (beside my bus stop lol) filling in time just yesterday and I found a lovely little kit for wood carving, there's around six tools with different ends and there's one looks just like the scoring tool you are making. .They look and feel pretty well made but as I haven't used them yet I can't say definitively that the one that looks like your tool would score copper and silver but I will give it a try and I will make one like you're making and I will let you know how my £1.50 kit tool measures up. (thats £1.50 divided by six lol) told you, Scottish, bargains etc.
@Seven Black Swans I'd say they werw crap for that price lol!
Cool! Thanks Andrew!
Most interesting. Thanks
The scoring tools we used in university were found through counter top suppliers, and copper suppliers, for intaglio.
God bless you
Je vous merci j ai comris se que vous mentrer
Gracias amigo.
Andrew, I'm curious if any of your daughters are following you into the jewelry business.
Actually you have confused me with the heating. .I thought heating was annealing the metal and would soften it as you do when it becomes work hardened and you need to re soften it. Now I'm just starting out training myself (I've been making jewellery for ages but have only recently decided to go all the way and learn how to forge and all the hot work that used to intimidate me...can you explain this? )
I know it's an year old comment, but for future viewers:
he's heat treating the steel. You can't do that with most other metals, it works with carbon steel and a few other alloys because of their composition.
The first step is hardening. First getting the metal hot enough (it varies for different steels, you can check with a magnet and heat until it's non-magnetic to be sure), and then cooling it fast. The quenching of small tools like this is usually done in cool water, but oil and brine are also used (again, depends on the alloy and size, but for small things a fast cooling is better, so water is usually good).
Hardening leaves the metal very hard, but also brittle. As is, the tip will chip or the tool crack.
The second step is tempering (beware that in the video he didn't see the color because of the lights, so he overheated the piece). You reheat the metal, but below red. For cutting tools like this one, the right temperature is around when steal forms a pale yellow oxide layer. Sand it to see the color, and heat it slowly. Then quench it to stop it from getting softer.
Colors go from pale yellow-straw-purple to blue. Blue is softer, for things that need to support striking and bending, good for the center of hand tools, etc. Harder things, like the tip of the tool in a chisel or scribe, should be somewhere between pale yellow to straw.
PS, to anneal you also heat red, but let it air cool. He said it wasn't needed because that end of the file was already soft (it usually is, so it doesn't break inside the handle)
No prob, hope it helps.
@@frechjo It's spelled STEEL. (FYI), thanks for the explanation, that was needed.
@@flyingcheff
Ouch, sorry, and thanks! It's fixed now. I hope it wasn't too painful to read like that ;)
Lindzann, no you're not the only one.
Or get an acrylic scoring tool from local diy if you are lazy. 😀