I'm no mechanic but out of necessity have been building my rally car from scratch. I've gained so much knowledge of the intricacies of the car especially the electrical system, that it's basically unfathomably that it's almost the norm for the drivers to not have much mechanical experience on their own cars. I'm fortunate for accidentally taking this path!
Exactly. And it is why Colin McRae was the best. He had way above average mechanical sympathy. I have caught old TH-cam interviews of his two former bosses, Malcolm Wilson and Dave Richards allude to the fact that when Colin spoke or analysed a car problem, the already highly trained mechanics really listened to him, because he was usually right about stuff. In most sport where one has to use secondary equipment, the very best sportspeople claim this equipment to have become an extension of themselves. And it even speaks to them somewhat. Some people have a gyroscopic sense of balance in a rally or competition car in general. And they can sense if one corner of the car is even slightly "off" from the rest of the car, due to whatever cause. From low tyre pressure, to a broken axle or strut. Diagnosed in seconds while in full flight, using this inbuilt and always on App. I will add some controversy here, and add that one is mostly born with this ability and it quickly shows and develops with engagement. Even though you can also learn it, albeit much at a slower pace 😬
Sorry I may have missed the problem. Why did the high revs damage the axles? Was it the fact that you downshifted so the interaction of the clutch reengagement with the already high stress of external road forces caused the axles to break?
I am a bit confused as to what this car actually is (ARA class/base model wise). Going by the dash, it looks to be a base style Fiesta, you stating that it is a turbo makes me think it started life as an EcoBoost 1.0 3 banger SFE (like the WRC R2C/Rally 4 Fiestas). Is it an SFE built to RC2/Rally 4 specs/rules, just sans the Sadev 5 speed sequential, or is it a base model with an ST's 1.6 EB/IB6 transaxle swap?? What suspension is underneath it? Does it have the R2's Reigers??
Ok first I hear about lag and keeping the boost up by not letting the revs fall. Now you're telling me it's all about grunting the low mid. WTF? I'm thinking it's an artfull blending of both aspects. With dirt bikes it's easy to feather the clutch and ride the taller gear out of the corner. I'm imagining using the turbo like a flywheel and feeding the power with the clutch. Instead of downshifting clutch rev and feed power back in. Just got my first turbo last week for my 63rd birthday. Old beat up WRX. Turbos may be the fountain of youth. I'll say I feel younger already.
For everyday driving, brakes are cheaper than a clutch or transmission. There is something to be said about rev-matching downshifts and downshifting to stay in the power band, but you don't need to aggressively downshift as a means to slow you down. Let your brakes do the slowing and then downshift to be in the proper lower gear for your speed to take a corner. If you're talking about racing context, please ignore me :).
I've got a 2018 Fiat 124 Spider with a 1.4l multi-air 4 cyl turbo. For everyday driving, is it also best to keep the revs low for optimal power and control? What RPM Range? I'm guessing ~2k-4k? The car can cruise just under 2k rpms comfortably, but I'd need to downshift to get going with any real oomph.
Small turbo engines tend to be more susceptible to LSPI, especially for direct injection engines, which can be extremely destructive. Cruising on flat terrain with no headwind at low throttle while maintaining speed is fine and very economical. That said, NEVER accelerate hard at low revs, always downshift to accelerate. TLDR: As long as the engine is never overreved or laboured, it sho be fine.
@4G12 so what exactly defines "overrevving" in this scenario given the recommendation to upshift sooner than one might deem appropriate? How close to redline? Because over-revving typically means beyond redline, which is presumably beyond the upper bounds of this video's recommendation and thus does not help narrow what RPM band should be targeted.
Over-revving can occur when you downshift too low of a gear for the speed your are traveling, forcing the engine beyond it's capable number of engine revolutions per minute and can ultimately damage the weakest component that all of that force is being thrown to.
@Teamoneilrally Right, so over-revving is well beyond the recommended shift point based on this video's recommendation to upshift sooner rather than revving out. So that still leaves my question unanswered. What would be the optimal target RPM band for a turbo 4 cyl with 6500rpm redline? Should I aim to upshift at 4k? 4500? 5000? 6000? The video recommends upshifting rather than revving out, so what would be my target? Is it the same across all gears? Does it change based on speed relative to gear? Is anything from 2000-6500 fair game? I'm trying to get some real context to apply this concept.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The best drivers are usually people who are very much in-tune with the mechanical aspect of the vehicle.
I'm no mechanic but out of necessity have been building my rally car from scratch. I've gained so much knowledge of the intricacies of the car especially the electrical system, that it's basically unfathomably that it's almost the norm for the drivers to not have much mechanical experience on their own cars. I'm fortunate for accidentally taking this path!
Exactly. And it is why Colin McRae was the best. He had way above average mechanical sympathy. I have caught old TH-cam interviews of his two former bosses, Malcolm Wilson and Dave Richards allude to the fact that when Colin spoke or analysed a car problem, the already highly trained mechanics really listened to him, because he was usually right about stuff. In most sport where one has to use secondary equipment, the very best sportspeople claim this equipment to have become an extension of themselves. And it even speaks to them somewhat.
Some people have a gyroscopic sense of balance in a rally or competition car in general. And they can sense if one corner of the car is even slightly "off" from the rest of the car, due to whatever cause. From low tyre pressure, to a broken axle or strut. Diagnosed in seconds while in full flight, using this inbuilt and always on App.
I will add some controversy here, and add that one is mostly born with this ability and it quickly shows and develops with engagement. Even though you can also learn it, albeit much at a slower pace 😬
Awesome video! Conversations and information like this are some of the best and most practical for everyone!
Jared is a great mechanic, driver and instructor. Cool calm collected, and intelligent. BTW Appreciate the media and interviews coming back out !
Love the informational vids !
Very helpful information, thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Sorry I may have missed the problem.
Why did the high revs damage the axles?
Was it the fact that you downshifted so the interaction of the clutch reengagement with the already high stress of external road forces caused the axles to break?
I am a bit confused as to what this car actually is (ARA class/base model wise).
Going by the dash, it looks to be a base style Fiesta, you stating that it is a turbo makes me think it started life as an EcoBoost 1.0 3 banger SFE (like the WRC R2C/Rally 4 Fiestas).
Is it an SFE built to RC2/Rally 4 specs/rules, just sans the Sadev 5 speed sequential, or is it a base model with an ST's 1.6 EB/IB6 transaxle swap??
What suspension is underneath it? Does it have the R2's Reigers??
It's good you've evaluated your issues after and even better you have shared them 👍
Ok first I hear about lag and keeping the boost up by not letting the revs fall.
Now you're telling me it's all about grunting the low mid.
WTF?
I'm thinking it's an artfull blending of both aspects.
With dirt bikes it's easy to feather the clutch and ride the taller gear out of the corner.
I'm imagining using the turbo like a flywheel and feeding the power with the clutch.
Instead of downshifting clutch rev and feed power back in.
Just got my first turbo last week for my 63rd birthday. Old beat up WRX.
Turbos may be the fountain of youth.
I'll say I feel younger already.
Balls, I'm always downshifting before a corner using the transmission to slow down, none turbo car. Maybe I should stop 😮
For everyday driving, brakes are cheaper than a clutch or transmission. There is something to be said about rev-matching downshifts and downshifting to stay in the power band, but you don't need to aggressively downshift as a means to slow you down. Let your brakes do the slowing and then downshift to be in the proper lower gear for your speed to take a corner. If you're talking about racing context, please ignore me :).
@@Tamarocker88 yeah it's only when I'm feeling like I need to go fast to be honest, missing sports button syndrome 😅
I'm still not why the clutch went in mid corner?
Rushing not racing
I've got a 2018 Fiat 124 Spider with a 1.4l multi-air 4 cyl turbo. For everyday driving, is it also best to keep the revs low for optimal power and control? What RPM Range? I'm guessing ~2k-4k? The car can cruise just under 2k rpms comfortably, but I'd need to downshift to get going with any real oomph.
Small turbo engines tend to be more susceptible to LSPI, especially for direct injection engines, which can be extremely destructive. Cruising on flat terrain with no headwind at low throttle while maintaining speed is fine and very economical. That said, NEVER accelerate hard at low revs, always downshift to accelerate. TLDR: As long as the engine is never overreved or laboured, it sho be fine.
@4G12 so what exactly defines "overrevving" in this scenario given the recommendation to upshift sooner than one might deem appropriate? How close to redline? Because over-revving typically means beyond redline, which is presumably beyond the upper bounds of this video's recommendation and thus does not help narrow what RPM band should be targeted.
@@Tamarocker88drive it hard don’t be a pussy check your fluids and you’re fine
Over-revving can occur when you downshift too low of a gear for the speed your are traveling, forcing the engine beyond it's capable number of engine revolutions per minute and can ultimately damage the weakest component that all of that force is being thrown to.
@Teamoneilrally Right, so over-revving is well beyond the recommended shift point based on this video's recommendation to upshift sooner rather than revving out. So that still leaves my question unanswered. What would be the optimal target RPM band for a turbo 4 cyl with 6500rpm redline? Should I aim to upshift at 4k? 4500? 5000? 6000? The video recommends upshifting rather than revving out, so what would be my target? Is it the same across all gears? Does it change based on speed relative to gear? Is anything from 2000-6500 fair game? I'm trying to get some real context to apply this concept.
You've got a great car tho! -Fellow Mk7 Fiesta driver. 😉
Will there be F.E.A.R. stickers at the rally fest?
Nice 🔥
❤