@@yeyolara6259 All electric elements will cycle on any heat setting. The heating elements are resistors. It is either ON or OFF. The heat switch can't send half the voltage for half the heat. It doesn't work that way. A high heat setting means the burner cycles on and off, but it will stay on longer which results in more heat. A low heat setting means the burner cycles on and off, but it will stay on for a shorter period of time, which results in less heat. Because all electric stoves cycle on and off in this way, aluminum pans are more sensitive to these changes in heat. This is why heavier caste iron pans result in more even cooking. If you want to see the inside of the switch you can learn more in this short video: th-cam.com/users/shortsURFjJPQycsk
We have a Frigidaire from 2002. had a cracked cooktop and the dual element had burnt out. the new element did not have the same wiring. Your video helped me realize how to test the new element and figure out that the high limit switch was different. I think I got the n and l1 backwards or did something to the warning element, but it seems to work. There were all kinds of little springs that kept the elements off the brackets. mine was really hard to work on slide-in-range, it was all I could do to keep the elements sorted out and get it back in... and to top it off we couldnt find a glass cooktop replacement for the same model, but we found it rebranded and a different color/kenmore elite grey vs frigidare gallery white... we're ok having a black cooktop... as long as it works. the cabinets and floor were built around this, so it is hard to replace.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It is difficult to show every single model and variation but we're glad that the video helped you spot that difference in the limit switch wiring.
Extremely well done video, but a remaining question for you. I replaced my infinate switch (single coil element), but the burner still stays on high heat only even when on low. Any ideas why this could still be happening? Thanks in advance !
Thank you, we're glad that you found the video helpful! If the burner stays on high, then its either a stuck contact in the heat switch or a faulty element. Since you've eliminated the heat switch then you'll want to test and replace the element. The element can be tested to see if it is shorted to ground, this will mean that the element will still receive power even when half of the power is cycled off at the heat switch. th-cam.com/video/l39vOnhqnhg/w-d-xo.html You can see how to replace a surface element here: th-cam.com/video/XQ30epA84bQ/w-d-xo.html If you do find those other videos helpful and want to support the channel, comment and share your experience there too as it will help the algorithm and help other viewers know that the video is useful.
@@AmreSupply Thank you so much for the information. I will definately check these videos out and will most definately give them likes. Cheers! Keep up the great work :)
@@AmreSupply UPDATE: so I replaced both the infinaty switch annddd the element now. When I first tried it, it worked, I was so happy. Then, the next time I tried it, it stayed on high after being on high for a while... what could be happening that this is still happening. It is a whirpool gold series stove. www.whirlpool.ca/en_ca/kitchen/cooking/ranges/slide-in/p.6.4-cu.-ft.-front-control-electric-range-with-true-convection.ywee745h0fs.html?originProductCategory=KitchenCookingRanges&originVariantsOrder=SS
@@Michaelt3474 Hi Michael, thank you for the update. There are a few things to check. Is the burner a dual or triple coil burner? Did you replace the same type of switch in the same orientation? A dual or triple coil switch installed upside down might give the appearance that the settings are off. As well did any of the wires seem damaged? Even with the new switch you can test for a short as per this video th-cam.com/video/l39vOnhqnhg/w-d-xo.html If the element is shorted, its possible that the wire harness is damaged, or that the wire terminals are compromised. Make sure that the terminals near the element are not touching anything near by. They should be isolated from any metal from the frame.
Thanks for watching. If your stove burners are controlled by a touch pad, then the switch will be a small relay built into the control board. These relays are not easily repaired, so if a relay fails then it's best to install a new control board: th-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/w-d-xo.html
any idea the problem if my burners are clicking on for about 20 seconds (heating up) and them clicking off (shutting off)(and repeating the cycle over and over)? on the left side of my whirlpool stove top I have a big burner up front and small burner in the back. I have one switch that turns on the front burner and another switch (DUAL) that I believe is suppose to heat both burners at the same time (if you have set the dial in DUAL MODE). in summary, when I turn on either one of those switches, the corresponding burners will TURN ON, but then FLIP OFF after 20 seconds. on the right side, the large front burner just won't come on at all (this burner stopped working months before the other burners started acting up). the back burner does the same as the left side burners. keeps flipping on and off. so I only have one burner that works. that left back burner. and it only works correctly when the dial is set to SINGLE MODE instead of dual mode. I hope the control board isn't bad. thanks
Thanks for watching. Electric heating elements work differently then a gas stove. in a gas stove, you can have a small continuous flame for low heat, and a large continuous flame for high heat. Electric heating elements only have FULL heat or NO heat. They only turn on and off. Elements will cycle on and off, to maintain an average level of heat. A low setting will have the burner shut off for longer, than a high setting. On the highest settings you might notice the burner stay on almost for the full time. If one of the elements in a dual burner is not working then it could be an issue with the heating element, the wires or the heat switch. If your model does not have individual heat switches then it could be an issue with the control board. A control board will cycle differently than a infinite heat switch. This is more difficult to test.
On my cooktop one element (after the initial heat up) can be seen to only power up for a second then it turns off (this repeats) where is the problem likely to be? If you set the heat setting to maximum, it does not turn off. The other elements behave normally and a clicking sound is heard with their power cycling. No noise from the faulty element.
Thanks for sharing, and for the update. Sorry for the delayed response, sometimes the notifications don't appear for these comments. We're glad you have it figured out though!
Thanks for watching. Any switch should have a resistance between 0 and 1 ohm. If you are getting a reading of 44 or 168 then double check all the terminal names to make sure that you're testing the correct ones. If you're still getting 44 or 168 ohms, then the limiter switch is faulty and the element should be replaced.
Thanks for watching. For a different element to work you'll have to check that it's the same diameter, same wattage, that its the same type (single, dual or triple element) it has the same number of terminals and that the mounting holes are similar enough that you can mount it.
But what if nothing but the clock works? Help, I've watched so many videos and all you show is how to replace burner elements. I need to know why nothing works and how to fix that.
Thanks for watching. We have other troubleshooting videos other than this cooktop one. You can see all 48 videos here: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt.html Now for your particular problem: If the clock works but the oven won't heat and ALL the cooktop elements are not working then its likely an issue with the power, the power cord or the oven fuse. The clock works so you've verified that you're getting one line of 120V to your range. For the heating elements to work you need 240 volts ( two 120 volt lines of power). This video shows how to test the 240V outlet, and the power cord to make sure that they are good. This will show you if there's an issue with the incoming power: th-cam.com/video/wZwxewn2w44/w-d-xo.html Alternatively it could be an issue with the thermal fuse or high limit switch: th-cam.com/video/Ox1lPMJY62U/w-d-xo.html
But only the switch for dual burner is not working properly if I set it in the highest level (9) with dual burner it will heat up but if I lower the level below 9 then it won’t be able to get the heat or if I switch to inner burner it will not have the heat either so what do you think in this situation?
Thanks for watching. It there is no heat at the below 9 setting then it's likely that the contacts inside the switch are warped. It's best to test the switch with a multimeter by following the steps at 3:50
Even though the infinite switch tested ok. It didn’t let the element heat up, so now I changed both switch and element and it solved the initial problem of unchanged element on all the way. Thanks
One better method is replace the faulty element wiring to another switch (whose element is working )...if element works...than the earlier switch has the issue...if not...then element has the issue.
Thanks for watching. This can't be done for all models as some are dual heat switches, and some models have connectors that won't directly swap to the other switches.
I still have no idea what to do 😅I am not very smart at these kinds of things. The right big burner on my stovetop only heats up the outer part/ring of it. The inside part does not heat. Do you have a diagnosis or what I can do? 😊
Thanks for watching. This video still applies to your situation. If the inside coil / ring of one of your heating elements is not working, then it's likely a faulty heat switch or heating element. You can test the heat switch through the back following the steps in this video. You'll have a dual switch so there will be extra terminals. If you follow the steps in this video you'll be able to determine if it is the switch or the element that is faulty.
Thanks for watching. It's likely an issue with one of the wires that supplies power to all 4 burners. To narrow down the problem you can trace the wires and check for continuity: This video shows how to inspect the wire harness: th-cam.com/video/wZwxewn2w44/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your video. My burner element heat up once I twist the knob, but then quickly shuts down with the click sound every time. Please let me know if you know the reason and solution.
Thanks for watching. The element will cycle on and off as needed. Does food still cook normally on the burner at a medium or high setting? Or is it not heating at all?
Thanks for reply. The food isn't cooking because the burner isn't consistently heating up. Sometimes, it briefly opens for a few seconds before closing again with a clicking sound from the back side of the knob. I checked the coil it’s all good.
@@preetipokhriyal1914 If the sound is coming from the heat switch, it's likely faulty and will need to be replaced. If you have a ceramic cook top, and the click comes from the stove top, it could be an issue with the limiter for that heating element. If you have another burner on the same type, that uses the same heat switch you take the heat switch (for the burner that doesn't work) and install it on the burner that works. If you get the same behavior, then the heat switch is faulty. If it heats up and works fine, then it's likely the limiter in the heating element that has been shutting the element off before it can heat properly.
I Just finished changing the smaller element on my kenmore stovetop. Thanks a lot! Your video just saved me $800 for a new range stove. The element was just $60. Quite a difference. Thanks again
Thanks for watching. The base is made out of a compressed ring of fibrous materials, some sort of insulator but there isn't much information on what mix of material this is exactly.
I have a kenmore 790.9641 electric range. The left front burner labeled "power burner" works but does not get as hot as it should. It won't boil water for example. The burner itself does not glow red. Could this still be a faulty burner or switch? Or something in the control board? Thanks in advance.
Hi Chris, thank you for watching. The stove heat switches and surface elements work independently from the control board, so a control board issue won't prevent water from boiling. If the element is a dual coil heating element then it is possible that only part of the element is working. You can test this for continuity It is also possible that the heat switch is faulty. If the model is over a decade old then the metal contacts (inside the switch) could be warped, which will disconnect power more frequently preventing the longer heat cycles needed to boil water. Since the element gets power and you have some heat, the switch will have continuity, so you won't be able to use a multimeter to test how much warping takes place, so it would just be best to order a new switch.
@@AmreSupply Thank you for replying so fast! The range is 12 years old. I will order a switch and see what happens. Will test burner continuity also. Thanks again!
Hi there, I went through the wire testing part, and it showed that H1 and H2 doesn't have a connection. I then tested the element, and the element is good. Is there a video on how to go further with the repair in this situation?
Thanks for watching. If the heat switch failed any of the continuity tests then it should be replaced. Replacing a heat switch is simple but you can see this in more detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/JKrrOflS1RM/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply I apologize for not being more specific. The continuity test for the heat switch is fine. I then moved on to the element test (back) to test if the wires and the element are ok. The H1-H2 wires test failed. I then tested the element itself, and it passed. Meaning the problem is probably with the wires. I'm asking if there's a video instruction on how to proceed.
@@jenniferjia7181 Thank you for the clarification. Yes if the wires are faulty but the element is still good you can test the wires directly. Trace H1 to the terminal that connects to the element and test for continuity. Then test H2 to the terminal on the element. If that is faulty you'll have to either repair the wires or install a new wire. If you have coiled elements, then you can get a receptacle kit with a full length wire: You can see how to install a new receptacle here: th-cam.com/video/GBnE_qEThsU/w-d-xo.html If you have a ceramic stove, then you'll have to identify which wire is faulty and replace it with a new segment and new connectors. We don't currently have a tutorial on this or wire crimping but there is no shortage on youtube. That is one we might do in the future to help out in cases like these.
Did this video help you fix your stove? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!
Is it normal on the big burner when set to high to turn ON and OFF while on this setting. TIA
@@yeyolara6259 All electric elements will cycle on any heat setting. The heating elements are resistors. It is either ON or OFF. The heat switch can't send half the voltage for half the heat. It doesn't work that way.
A high heat setting means the burner cycles on and off, but it will stay on longer which results in more heat.
A low heat setting means the burner cycles on and off, but it will stay on for a shorter period of time, which results in less heat.
Because all electric stoves cycle on and off in this way, aluminum pans are more sensitive to these changes in heat. This is why heavier caste iron pans result in more even cooking.
If you want to see the inside of the switch you can learn more in this short video: th-cam.com/users/shortsURFjJPQycsk
Professional, and clear instructions
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
We have a Frigidaire from 2002. had a cracked cooktop and the dual element had burnt out.
the new element did not have the same wiring. Your video helped me realize how to test the new element and figure out that the high limit switch was different. I think I got the n and l1 backwards or did something to the warning element, but it seems to work.
There were all kinds of little springs that kept the elements off the brackets. mine was really hard to work on slide-in-range, it was all I could do to keep the elements sorted out and get it back in... and to top it off we couldnt find a glass cooktop replacement for the same model, but we found it rebranded and a different color/kenmore elite grey vs frigidare gallery white... we're ok having a black cooktop... as long as it works. the cabinets and floor were built around this, so it is hard to replace.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It is difficult to show every single model and variation but we're glad that the video helped you spot that difference in the limit switch wiring.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your time and expertise.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Best video… got exactly what i was looking for… liked and subscribed!! Keep up the good work…
Thank you for the subscription! We're currently working on a series for refrigerator repairs. This will be out sometime in 2022!
Very nice video ,thanks!!
You're welcome, we're just happy to share some good info!
Extremely well done video, but a remaining question for you. I replaced my infinate switch (single coil element), but the burner still stays on high heat only even when on low. Any ideas why this could still be happening? Thanks in advance !
Thank you, we're glad that you found the video helpful!
If the burner stays on high, then its either a stuck contact in the heat switch or a faulty element. Since you've eliminated the heat switch then you'll want to test and replace the element.
The element can be tested to see if it is shorted to ground, this will mean that the element will still receive power even when half of the power is cycled off at the heat switch. th-cam.com/video/l39vOnhqnhg/w-d-xo.html
You can see how to replace a surface element here: th-cam.com/video/XQ30epA84bQ/w-d-xo.html
If you do find those other videos helpful and want to support the channel, comment and share your experience there too as it will help the algorithm and help other viewers know that the video is useful.
@@AmreSupply Thank you so much for the information. I will definately check these videos out and will most definately give them likes. Cheers! Keep up the great work :)
@@Michaelt3474 You're welcome, we're just happy to help! Wish you all the best!
@@AmreSupply UPDATE: so I replaced both the infinaty switch annddd the element now. When I first tried it, it worked, I was so happy. Then, the next time I tried it, it stayed on high after being on high for a while... what could be happening that this is still happening. It is a whirpool gold series stove. www.whirlpool.ca/en_ca/kitchen/cooking/ranges/slide-in/p.6.4-cu.-ft.-front-control-electric-range-with-true-convection.ywee745h0fs.html?originProductCategory=KitchenCookingRanges&originVariantsOrder=SS
@@Michaelt3474 Hi Michael, thank you for the update. There are a few things to check. Is the burner a dual or triple coil burner? Did you replace the same type of switch in the same orientation? A dual or triple coil switch installed upside down might give the appearance that the settings are off.
As well did any of the wires seem damaged? Even with the new switch you can test for a short as per this video th-cam.com/video/l39vOnhqnhg/w-d-xo.html If the element is shorted, its possible that the wire harness is damaged, or that the wire terminals are compromised. Make sure that the terminals near the element are not touching anything near by. They should be isolated from any metal from the frame.
Is the switch for touch pad will be the same as knob switch set up?
Thanks for watching. If your stove burners are controlled by a touch pad, then the switch will be a small relay built into the control board. These relays are not easily repaired, so if a relay fails then it's best to install a new control board: th-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video very helpful ❤
Thank you Elaine, we're glad that the video helped you out!
any idea the problem if my burners are clicking on for about 20 seconds (heating up) and them clicking off (shutting off)(and repeating the cycle over and over)? on the left side of my whirlpool stove top I have a big burner up front and small burner in the back. I have one switch that turns on the front burner and another switch (DUAL) that I believe is suppose to heat both burners at the same time (if you have set the dial in DUAL MODE). in summary, when I turn on either one of those switches, the corresponding burners will TURN ON, but then FLIP OFF after 20 seconds. on the right side, the large front burner just won't come on at all (this burner stopped working months before the other burners started acting up). the back burner does the same as the left side burners. keeps flipping on and off. so I only have one burner that works. that left back burner. and it only works correctly when the dial is set to SINGLE MODE instead of dual mode. I hope the control board isn't bad. thanks
Thanks for watching. Electric heating elements work differently then a gas stove. in a gas stove, you can have a small continuous flame for low heat, and a large continuous flame for high heat.
Electric heating elements only have FULL heat or NO heat. They only turn on and off. Elements will cycle on and off, to maintain an average level of heat.
A low setting will have the burner shut off for longer, than a high setting.
On the highest settings you might notice the burner stay on almost for the full time.
If one of the elements in a dual burner is not working then it could be an issue with the heating element, the wires or the heat switch.
If your model does not have individual heat switches then it could be an issue with the control board. A control board will cycle differently than a infinite heat switch. This is more difficult to test.
On my cooktop one element (after the initial heat up) can be seen to only power up for a second then it turns off (this repeats) where is the problem likely to be? If you set the heat setting to maximum, it does not turn off. The other elements behave normally and a clicking sound is heard with their power cycling. No noise from the faulty element.
It is fixed now it was the switch unit.
Thanks for sharing, and for the update. Sorry for the delayed response, sometimes the notifications don't appear for these comments. We're glad you have it figured out though!
What if you're getting a reading higher than 1 ohm? I have one switch reading 168 between L2 & H2, another reading 44. The rest are 0.
Thanks for watching. Any switch should have a resistance between 0 and 1 ohm. If you are getting a reading of 44 or 168 then double check all the terminal names to make sure that you're testing the correct ones. If you're still getting 44 or 168 ohms, then the limiter switch is faulty and the element should be replaced.
The manufacturer wants too much for a replacement for their heater. Can I use a less expensive one that fits?
Thanks for watching. For a different element to work you'll have to check that it's the same diameter, same wattage, that its the same type (single, dual or triple element) it has the same number of terminals and that the mounting holes are similar enough that you can mount it.
About multimeter, I have a tiny simple tester (it was $7). Can I use this one? Or do I need one like you use in the video?
It is Kobalt's voltage tester. Can we use this tester instead of multimeter?
@@FlyAwayFlyHigh You'll need a multimeter that is able to test for resistance or continuity.
@@AmreSupply
Thank you!
@@FlyAwayFlyHigh You're welcome!
But what if nothing but the clock works? Help, I've watched so many videos and all you show is how to replace burner elements.
I need to know why nothing works and how to fix that.
Thanks for watching. We have other troubleshooting videos other than this cooktop one. You can see all 48 videos here: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt.html
Now for your particular problem: If the clock works but the oven won't heat and ALL the cooktop elements are not working then its likely an issue with the power, the power cord or the oven fuse.
The clock works so you've verified that you're getting one line of 120V to your range. For the heating elements to work you need 240 volts ( two 120 volt lines of power).
This video shows how to test the 240V outlet, and the power cord to make sure that they are good. This will show you if there's an issue with the incoming power: th-cam.com/video/wZwxewn2w44/w-d-xo.html
Alternatively it could be an issue with the thermal fuse or high limit switch: th-cam.com/video/Ox1lPMJY62U/w-d-xo.html
Bra
Thanks for watching.
But only the switch for dual burner is not working properly if I set it in the highest level (9) with dual burner it will heat up but if I lower the level below 9 then it won’t be able to get the heat or if I switch to inner burner it will not have the heat either so what do you think in this situation?
Thanks for watching. It there is no heat at the below 9 setting then it's likely that the contacts inside the switch are warped. It's best to test the switch with a multimeter by following the steps at 3:50
Very good content.. thanks
You're welcome Dey! We're glad that you found it helpful!
Even though the infinite switch tested ok. It didn’t let the element heat up, so now I changed both switch and element and it solved the initial problem of unchanged element on all the way. Thanks
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you fixed the problem!
Thanks
You're welcome!
One better method is replace the faulty element wiring to another switch (whose element is working )...if element works...than the earlier switch has the issue...if not...then element has the issue.
Thanks for watching. This can't be done for all models as some are dual heat switches, and some models have connectors that won't directly swap to the other switches.
I still have no idea what to do 😅I am not very smart at these kinds of things. The right big burner on my stovetop only heats up the outer part/ring of it. The inside part does not heat. Do you have a diagnosis or what I can do? 😊
Thanks for watching. This video still applies to your situation. If the inside coil / ring of one of your heating elements is not working, then it's likely a faulty heat switch or heating element. You can test the heat switch through the back following the steps in this video. You'll have a dual switch so there will be extra terminals. If you follow the steps in this video you'll be able to determine if it is the switch or the element that is faulty.
Hello, I have an electrolux stove with oven but the oven heats up but Noone of the four elements /burners heat up, what could be the problem?
Thanks for watching. It's likely an issue with one of the wires that supplies power to all 4 burners. To narrow down the problem you can trace the wires and check for continuity: This video shows how to inspect the wire harness: th-cam.com/video/wZwxewn2w44/w-d-xo.html
Great job Thanks for posting.
You're welcome!
Thanks for your video. My burner element heat up once I twist the knob, but then quickly shuts down with the click sound every time. Please let me know if you know the reason and solution.
Thanks for watching. The element will cycle on and off as needed.
Does food still cook normally on the burner at a medium or high setting? Or is it not heating at all?
Thanks for reply.
The food isn't cooking because the burner isn't consistently heating up. Sometimes, it briefly opens for a few seconds before closing again with a clicking sound from the back side of the knob.
I checked the coil it’s all good.
@@preetipokhriyal1914 If the sound is coming from the heat switch, it's likely faulty and will need to be replaced.
If you have a ceramic cook top, and the click comes from the stove top, it could be an issue with the limiter for that heating element. If you have another burner on the same type, that uses the same heat switch you take the heat switch (for the burner that doesn't work) and install it on the burner that works. If you get the same behavior, then the heat switch is faulty. If it heats up and works fine, then it's likely the limiter in the heating element that has been shutting the element off before it can heat properly.
I Just finished changing the smaller element on my kenmore stovetop. Thanks a lot! Your video just saved me $800 for a new range stove. The element was just $60. Quite a difference. Thanks again
You're welcome, we're happy to hear that the video helped you save some money!
Glass top one burner stays on high probable cause diagnose
Thanks for watching. We have a specific video that shows how to troubleshoot a burner that stays on high: th-cam.com/video/l39vOnhqnhg/w-d-xo.html
What is the dish that holds the coils? What is it made out of?
Thanks for watching. The base is made out of a compressed ring of fibrous materials, some sort of insulator but there isn't much information on what mix of material this is exactly.
I have a kenmore 790.9641 electric range. The left front burner labeled "power burner" works but does not get as hot as it should. It won't boil water for example. The burner itself does not glow red. Could this still be a faulty burner or switch? Or something in the control board? Thanks in advance.
Hi Chris, thank you for watching. The stove heat switches and surface elements work independently from the control board, so a control board issue won't prevent water from boiling.
If the element is a dual coil heating element then it is possible that only part of the element is working. You can test this for continuity
It is also possible that the heat switch is faulty. If the model is over a decade old then the metal contacts (inside the switch) could be warped, which will disconnect power more frequently preventing the longer heat cycles needed to boil water.
Since the element gets power and you have some heat, the switch will have continuity, so you won't be able to use a multimeter to test how much warping takes place, so it would just be best to order a new switch.
@@AmreSupply Thank you for replying so fast! The range is 12 years old. I will order a switch and see what happens. Will test burner continuity also. Thanks again!
@@chrisreibold1634 You're welcome! Best of luck with the repair!
Hi there,
I went through the wire testing part, and it showed that H1 and H2 doesn't have a connection. I then tested the element, and the element is good. Is there a video on how to go further with the repair in this situation?
Thanks for watching. If the heat switch failed any of the continuity tests then it should be replaced. Replacing a heat switch is simple but you can see this in more detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/JKrrOflS1RM/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply I apologize for not being more specific. The continuity test for the heat switch is fine. I then moved on to the element test (back) to test if the wires and the element are ok. The H1-H2 wires test failed. I then tested the element itself, and it passed. Meaning the problem is probably with the wires. I'm asking if there's a video instruction on how to proceed.
@@jenniferjia7181 Thank you for the clarification. Yes if the wires are faulty but the element is still good you can test the wires directly. Trace H1 to the terminal that connects to the element and test for continuity. Then test H2 to the terminal on the element. If that is faulty you'll have to either repair the wires or install a new wire.
If you have coiled elements, then you can get a receptacle kit with a full length wire: You can see how to install a new receptacle here: th-cam.com/video/GBnE_qEThsU/w-d-xo.html
If you have a ceramic stove, then you'll have to identify which wire is faulty and replace it with a new segment and new connectors. We don't currently have a tutorial on this or wire crimping but there is no shortage on youtube. That is one we might do in the future to help out in cases like these.
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you
You're welcome!