Oven troubleshooting nobody will tell you
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- If you have an electric oven that won't heat up all the way or won't hold temperature there are simple tests you can do. Replacing the control board is not always the last resort if your range won't preheat or get hot enough. I'll take you through the steps to troubleshoot and diagnose which parts are defective and how to repair the control board and save yourself a lot of money.
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00:00 Troubleshoot electric oven no heat
00:19 basic troubleshooting
00:39 check voltage
01:20 remove back panel
01:42 Ohm heating elements
02:46 Ohm thermistor or thermocouple
04:25 Advanced troubleshooting
06:48 Control board terminals
07:35 remove control board
07:50 Why you should fix control board
08:20 control board troubleshooting
09:00 control board disassembly
09:27 control board relay troubleshooting
10:30 replace control board relay
12:35 oven reassembly
12:40 baking tips - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Wow, much respect. Someone who actually logically analyzes a problem, step by step, to arrive at a solution. If only more people did that nowadays. Nice delivery / tone, too: made watching the video enjoyable. One important aspect to oven repair (cooktop, fridge, etc.) is that parts aren't always readily available. Our GE Profile cooktop and oven were installed in 1995, so this being 2024, they're 29 years old, and basically nothing is available anymore. Good job.
Thanks Rick. Really appreciate it.
Broiler element was not working. Followed this video's instruction and saved $300. Perfect video. You're awesome - Thanks!!!
Glad you found it helpful.
It helps so much that he explained how to properly adjust the multi meter. Such a clean concise video. Ty
Get a digital.
This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. A vid where someone goes WAYYYY deeper than “replace the motherboard.” Like what? That’s $300! Was my exact thoughts. So glad to know this is possible. Again thank you for posting this
Anythings possible with the right tools. Some boards are filled with silicone. So best you can do is look at the broken relay. Just replace the board. Other components have been compromised.
I'm almost certified in appliance repair. You have taught me a ton here in a few videos. (I'm taking a course) But I've installed appliances, mostly high-end for almost a decade. I have seen & personally have ripped doors off of ranges, scratched floors, custom handles on wrong side of panels, and just about everything else. Don't ever just yank on the door!! haha. Seriously tho you're brilliant & tremendously helpful
Superb video brother!
Clear, concise, and informative on every minute detail.
Superb editing, pleasantly presented.
No stupid background music.
Dude, you’re a video Jedi master.
My oven stopped working last night when I was going to bake a pie for a belated Christmas gift for my neighbor.
DIY is always my preferred option and I typically watch a lot of videos for whatever I’m tackling.
I’m not yet sure what’s wrong with my oven but my worst fear is always the board.
I was shocked and impressed that you even covered a detailed board repair.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Peace and blessings!
Wow, thanks for the kind words. Hopefully your repair will be easy and inexpensive.
Followed your step by step and really appreciated it. Oven is fixed, exact same issue with an LG 2012 oven. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
One of the best oven trouble shooting videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your expertise!
Thanks Tommy.
Extremely helpful, much appreciated, right to repair is alive and well thanks to people like you sir!
This was exactly the info I needed. Thank you very much for your time and effort to make this video. Saved me almost $300 for the control board. The relays were much cheaper.
Excellent!
Thank you! This video was super helpful for diagnosing my oven issue.
Excellent video. I have the same oven but the double oven.
Very well done video! I learned more on trouble shooting.
Really cool to see how that works and how to get it working.......though I'll probably end up spending the $300 to avoid soldering.
Wow dude! You are the real deal! Great job
Great video! I had this exact trouble call today.
This was a great video! I haven’t tried it yet… but I think this may be the problem. Thanks!!
Good luck! I hope you can fix it.
Best guy here, showing the important testing part not just a lame guy like everyone else that would show you how to test an heating element.. 😂, great job, exactly what I was looking for to proove my thoughts!! Thanks again!!
Good info. Nice old school Omega meter.
Thanks for the tutorial. It seems like that relay has been replaced before. It looks like the design engineer thought that a 16A relay is good for operating at its max rating.
Actually I replaced it then right after I finished I thought I should make a video about it.
So I broke out the camera and did it over again.
Nicely done Sr. great how to.
Great video, just replaced relay in double Frigidaire oven. Thanks!
Awesome! Glad it worked for you.
Great job! Thanks
You are the man! I have a gas GE Profile with a relay out. Thank you for confirmation.
Well done Sir.
Great video. I am not quite as fortunate. I have the LG LRE30453ST, and the oven will not go above 310F. The elements are good, but the baking element gets 230V for about three seconds ever 5 min, and the turns off. No error codes, and the display shows a fairly accurate temp. I think this is going to be the control board.
Check the ohms on your elements.
Could be cracked and interrupting the current when it heats up and expands. Try tugging on it (when cold) with the meter hooked up and see if the reading changes.
@@HouseDoctorRay Both elements are fairly new, and I never saw a resistance change when I wiggled and pulled them. I also connected the bottom element straight to 240V, and it started heating nicely. The relays are clicking when it turns the bake element on & off. To be more specific: I was baking an the food remained uncooked, after the display showed 330 degrees for 45 min. I had set it to 350. After removing the cover, checking the bake & broil elements, this is what I found: The bake element turns on for about 7-8 seconds and turns off. The broil element turns on whenever the bake element is off, and after about 2-3 mins, it does this again. The temperature is probably correct, since the temp sensor is near the top beside the broil element.
I previously had an LG with a similar problem. I replaced the thermistor and it fixed the problem. Sounds like it's trying to get to heat but never does.
Pro tip: find the LG part online then find a Frigidaire or GE thermistor that looks the same. The LG parts are way overpriced. You may need to change the connector on the end but the probes and the voltage they put out are the same.
RepairClinic.com is a great site. They have pictures of almost every part for every machine.
They also have tons of YT videos on how to change parts.
Thanks - great 'how-to' 👍
Dude! That was an awesome video tutorial!
Thank you.
Great Video! Thanks! My oven could have the same problem because my heating is intermittent.
Good luck.
You might be able to surgically cut the top off the relay and clean the contacts with a needle file or nail file.
@@HouseDoctorRayThat's an excellent idea
Can't thank you enough for this video. Recently, our oven started taking a very long time to heat up. I watched your video and followed the troubleshooting steps. Same yellow wire wasn't getting any voltage. I didn't troubleshoot the relay like you did because I didn't want to put our oven out of commission by having it all apart. Since the oven is what we use most and never use broil or convection, I'm reasonably certain it's the oven relay. Many years of use and the contacts are probably charred. The relay is made by Tyco Electronics which I'm going to order today. Hopefully, this will take care of it. Thanks again.
Good luck Scott. Hope it works for you.
@@HouseDoctorRay I completed the repair. Everything went smoothly. I checked the old relay and it wasn't working. I checked the new relay after installation and it was working. I tried the oven and it's starting and stopping. Any thoughts?
First thing I would try is disconnect the power for ten minutes.
If it's still doing it check all the plugs on the control board and see if the relay is clicking on & off.
@@HouseDoctorRay Tried unpllugging the oven. That didn't solve the problem. When I first completed the repair and it didn't work, I checked all of the connections. I also removed the three cables and inserted them back in again. Still not working. Later today, I'm going to repeat the entire troubleshooting procedure from your video. In addition to the oven going on and off, it's still taking a long time to heat up. When the oven is actually on, the temperature only rises a couple of degrees in a minute or more.
That sounds like the lower element isn't working.
I changed out the bake element a few months ago and got a call that the oven only reaches 260 degrees. When I check amp draw it's approx. 15 amps for a short time then drops to 0. Is that the sensor probe? Tested the ohms while warm and was approx 1300 range. This video taught me to remove probe then turn on oven. I may have to go back to customer and try that.
My oven is built in one, but I can pass this on to my daughter and son in law if they ever need to fix theirs
Amazing on how that oven repair baked your cake and iced it and put it on a serving dish!
Wow! Someone actually watched til the end. Thank you.
Wow holy shit, great teaching skills, you just show me how to diagnose any oven
Easier said than done. I know nothing about continuity and the tool to put the relay back together.
Try it. The worst that could happen is you wreck the board. You need one anyway so it can't get any worse.
Very good video
Thank you.
Nice job
Thanks.
Nine times out of ten you can just go straight to replacing the baking element relay. It gets the most use so it makes sense. it's planned obsolescence.
Nope. You NEED a relay to control the high amps that your little switch wires won't support.
Well Done
can you make a video on oven door says "ON" even if it close?
That was awesome
Thank you. Tell all your friends.
Thanks!
Wow! Thank you so much, I really appreciate it.
Could you use dielectric grease on any of the control board pins for any future disassembly?
It wouldn't hurt but it's more for automotive and marine applications to keep water out.
Great video! I have a Samsung NE59J7651WS range that overheats and cooks unevenly (reaches 350 degrees, but burns the bread + did the 1234 start procedure- No error). After initial diagnostic, I found out the fan was burned, so I replaced it, but still issue not resolved. I then replaced the temp senor, but still not fixed. Only thing left is to change the control board, but it does not show any signs of damage + ^perfect LCD display. Maybe faulty bake element? Any advice before coughing 300$ to get that mother board? Thanks in advance!
Double check the temp sensor (thermistor). You need an ohmmeter but you can get one cheap.
You can dip in a cup of boiling water to see if it's changing.
@@HouseDoctorRay Thanks you so much for the quick reply! I do have a multimeter and, after I bought a new sensor thinking it was the faulty part, I found the diagnostic chart behind the aluminium back cover and proceeded to do some testing: the sensor tested at 1085 ohmes, which is spot on (the old one tested the same as well= still good)...The heater, baking and convection terminals testd at 14, 20 and 75 ohmes, which is fine. I then proceeded to remove the control board and after inspecting it (was fine + No obvious damage) I found that the white plastic connector of the BAKE Relay has some burn marks (signs of a short circuit or power surge)...So I will maybe go on and order that realy, replace it and see if the issue of overheating is solved...I tested the relay by clicking BAKE & START and the temp went up to 350F without any problems...The relay was clicking all that time though, which means it might not be the problem. Have a nice day and needless to say that I subbed and liked your video!
Whats your thoughts on an electric oven making a consistent clicking noise. Came home to it clicking in the off position. It doesn't stop when burners or oven are on nor off. Heating elements appear to be working fine.
Sounds like the relays are clicking. Try disconnecting the power for ten minutes to get the board to reset.
Thanks for your informative video. Im not getting power either to the lower element with the wires disconnected. However, I also do not get any power when testing one side of the element to neutral. And i also dont get any power from the other side of element to neutral. What does this indicate?
Usually one of the power wires is just a pass through and has power all the time.
Start tracing wires from the main terminals and see if you can find out where the break is. They be labeled L1 and L2.
@@HouseDoctorRay I'll try this oven is a real pain. The wires go under the stove top to the control board in the front. I tried to get to the control board and gave up
Check out RepairClinic they will probably have a video on how to remove the top. It's usually only a few screws.
I have a question if you don't mind of course! my oven keeps turning off and on when it's preheating specifically when the temperature reach at 30 to 50 degrees , thanks in advance
My time is expensive as well… by the time you did all that I could have replaced that board, and then gone and fixed 3 more… not to mention the special tools you would need to repair the board…
A soldering iron is a 'special tool'?
Thanks for the video! I have the same oven but broil fail instead of bake. I tested the broil relay and no continuity (bake relay had). Unfortunately, my 12v test touched something else on the board and smoke came our on the other side. I put it all back and get f95 error... the latch door motor keeps spinning non-stop..
Also when opening the oven door the pre heat convex heating doesn't stop. I disconnected the wire for motor. Notice on power board te UNL2003 chip has burn marks...suspecting it shorted. Not an electronic expert but read unl2003 controls motors. I might try to buy new IC chip. Any experience in changing this unl2003L ?
No, but give it a shot. You may save yourself a ton of money.
So good news; I purchased an unl2003A chip and also changed my broil relay. My frigidaire oven now works like new. Desoldering an ic chip takes a little practice and good tools, but it was worth it. Thanks again for your repairs video.
Awesome! You should have posted a video of changing the chip.
Where to get the relay where do you get the bobs and and you know whatever the little bits and bobs where do you get that for the motherboard
There are links in the video description
Click *...more*
I have a SF5350 board that is similar. I hear the relays click and have 240v at both bake and broil elements but no heat. The elements have about 16 ohms resistance. I tried other elements but no luck. What else could it be? When the bake or broil are off there is still 120v across the elements. Is this normal? Thank you.
Yes, it is normal to have 120 with it off. One leg is always hot.
If you have 220 across the two leads and the ohms are 16 then check the wires, especially the ends. The wire could be bad and still show 220 but can't carry enough amperage to heat the element. It takes only one strand of copper to show 220 on a meter but that will never get the element hot.
Is there a thermal fuse on this oven? I have same layout and both bake and broil doesn't work.
I'm sure there is. It will be indicated on the wiring diagram inside the back cover.
I'm really stumped on this one. I have a Frigidaire CFEF312GSC that wont pre heat evenly. During preheat it will alternate between the bake and broil element when but the broil element turns on it is only for a few seconds before it goes back to bake. This effectively makes it heat like only the bake was working. When I use the control to set it to broil the broil works and heats fine. Control board and oven temperature sensor have both been replaced.
Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated.
my whirpool gas oven takes one hour to reach 350 degrees. igniter for both bake and broil working. i can see the spark on both igniter and i can see the fire working on both bake and broil. i installed a thermometer inside the oven. i set for baking, inside thermometer shows 350 degrees but the built in oven thermometer shows 260 degrees.
Change thermocouple/thermistor
I have a whirlpool double oven wall installation. Its just over 2 yrs old and now does not heat up. Its electric and the top bake and broiler does not heat up at all. Along with bottom bake and broiler. All stop working at the same time. Screen still works fine and when i attempt to set a bake the fans still turn on inside the oven as if its working but coils never get hot. Any helpful suggestions on what i should look into would greatly help. Thanks
First thing to do is turn off the breaker for 30 minutes then back on. This will reset the computer.
If that doesn't help your going to have to start troubleshooting. Sounds like for some reason L2 has no power. Could be a loose connection.
@HouseDoctorRay I appreciate it. I do hope something is just loose behind the oven because I thought it was weird that both top and bottom oven stop working at the same exact time. I did turn breaker off over night and that did not help. Hopefully gonna try and pull it out the wall to check all connections with a multimeter. Thanks
The oven in the video didn't work the day I brought it home. When I pulled it out to check it a big spark went off inside the oven. When I opened it one of the leads was never connected or fell off in shipping to the store.
Nothing is built well anymore except maybe Speed Queen.
I used a lamp to check my dryer power, the lamp cord prongs are perfect width to fit across the N and hot.. Check between N and left leg, then N and right leg, only had a light on one side, power problem. if it works it works.
Not sure I'd recommend that procedure but if it worked...
One of the wire terminals burned off the light bulb wire (someone didn't turn off the breaker after i told them to!) I have a 16 gauge terminal, but it looks like the light wire actually has a 22 gauge. The terminal fits but the wire doesn't look as snug. Also the terminals look like a different color, not sure if the old terminal color due to oxidation. Does the new terminal have to be a special type, or are any terminals okay?
If it fits and holds the wire when crimped it should be fine.
@@HouseDoctorRay thank you so much!
I cant find the model number on my Maytag Gemini , I get a code across my display F9-5 Call service man, and the real issues i have is both upper broiler oven and lower oven do not work --what can you suggest
Shut off the breaker for 10 minutes. Then turn it back on.
found the model number now i have order the manual and see if they have trouble shhoting section
Very helpful! I found the wire that wasn't getting any power and it was the broil and bake element wire spliced together. I followed the wire to the board and found a burned out hale on the back of the board. Does that mean the component is bad or it just needs to be re-soldered where the burn mark is?
If it's a relay you can test it with a fresh 9v battery. I would definitely try and resolder it either way.
Can't make it worse!
@@HouseDoctorRay Will do, thanks!
@@HouseDoctorRay It worked! Just a dab of solder and it is better than before. Thank you so much! My wife isn't a fan because she already had a new oven picked out but I certainly am!
Awesome!
Steer her away from those LGs, Bosch, and Samsung. They look cool and make pretty sounds but aren't as reliable as the old brands. Plus the parts are a lot more and harder to come by.
@@HouseDoctorRay lol, she had a Samsung picked out so thank you for letting me know. I gathered from what you said ovens are a lot like cars, less DIY opportunities unless you are an electrical engineer.
2014 samsung convection stove, replaced convection fan once due to worn scraping sound & only lasted 3 years, Will oven still operated if I just disconnect the power wires from fan motor? So motor nolonger spins, at this point can careless about convection feature...
Probably be fine but also disconnect the convection heating element. That element is enclosed and needs the fan to dissipate the heat.
Be sure to tape the leads.
I have an issue with my oven that i can't seem to solve. I can put at 350 and it might get there or not. I bump it up to 400 and the temp will rise. I have checked both elements, the power supply, the sensor. All get power or continuity. I bought a new board which made it better. Lately it doesn't want to go to temp or goes over. It's like the relay is sticking but not sure. I don't want to put much more into my oven. I'm at my wits end. Would changing the relay help?
Watch the video again. Test your thermocouple/thermistor.
You can easily take it out and dip into boiling water.
I haven't done that so will check it that way. Thanks
I've got 120 volts to each leg of the element as you indicate when I touch each leg to the neutral. But when I touch both legs where they attach to the element, you show 240 volts, I'm reading 0 volts. What would that indicate?
You have to disconnect both leads from the element to test the voltage with oven on. If they're connected to the element one leg runs through the element an powers the other one.
Be careful.
@@HouseDoctorRay Thank you for the suggestion, I disconnected both legs, and it's the same story, 120 volts to each leg, but 0 volts when I connect hook up to both disconnected legs. I think I found the issue though, I did a current draw test on each leg, .08 micro amps from the constant on leg, and .04 micro amps from the leg coming from the control board, so I assume there's something wrong with the control board causing only half the amperage to go to that leg. Thanks for your help!
Hi..our oven blow are fuses. Looked at the back of oven and terminal board was black and charcoal looking. Is this fixable? Thanks bud. Where power connections are
Sure it's fixable but you have to find the cause. The burnt area is usually an indication of a loose connection.
Could be as simple as cleaning the connections and reattaching them; with the power off.
At a minimum I would remove the back panel and look for other signs of burning or shorts.
Unfortunately the connection points to the main input are not very sturdy and can easily be stripped. Also check the ends of the wires from the house to see if the brass terminals are tight.
@@HouseDoctorRay scissor wires on the left-hand side actually the black wires that are going up to this big Molex connector. It looks like the black block that the high-voltage connects to is actually melted on the left side. I appreciate you getting back so quickly because I have the back off of this now. and one of the connections from my plug was completely snapped off at the range.
Sounds like you found the problem. When you replace the end make sure you crimp it well or solder it.
Most hardware stores carry solderless or butt connector kits and the pliers. In a pinch you can use regular pliers but they tend to work loose.
@@HouseDoctorRay sweet. Thank you so much!
Help! We had an element replaced twice in a 45 yr old kenmore oven, this last replacement (about a year old) caught on fire. Now our warranty company wants to just replace it for a third time, and I’m terrified it will just catch on fire again! Are there some very old ovens where it’s just not possible to replace the element? Why does it keep failing, and in this case, catching on fire!? Any information would be greatly appreciated
Lot's of possibilities.
Faulty parts, improper installation, bad connection inside oven, wiring problem in house, faulty transformer at street, etc.
Hopefully your next technician will check things out more thoroughly.
Thank you very much. He’s hired by the warranty company and he’s just replacing the element again, I’m afraid the fire problem could just occur again, that’s why I’m trying to garner information. Thank you!
Hi, I have this issue: I have a Whirlpool oven that does not work. Display works but no way to put on the oven. That happened when the current went off and on again. They say that it's the motherboard, I put out the motherboard but there are no sign of damage and the electrolytic capacitors are all ok. I checked the flat cable wiring and it's ok. I think the programming is off. Where can I find where to do the programming and firmware again?
Sometimes there will be instructions in a plastic pouch inside the unit on how to enter 'technician' mode.
You can also try googling for it but they are tough to find.
@@HouseDoctorRay do you have any idea how to enter on a "technician mode" for a Whirlpool machine?
Whirlpool calls it 'Diagnostic mode'.
th-cam.com/video/jUc-ZUqxyy8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sSlgj7OdQk_svrhI
My oven is not baking nor broiling. Exact same oven. I've tested both elements and thermostat at 1100. I am not getting power to the opposite side (the l2 out side) that connects on the right of the elements to both bake and broil. The relays seem fine as I get 120 to both bake and broil when I test. It's the orange side, I'm assuming it's a constant leg, always giving 120 to the elements, just waiting on the relay side to complete the circuit.
So... I'm assuming if it's not the relays you're working on, it's the other black widget just to the left of the relay on the board. I'm pulling board now. Any input would be welcomed.
If you're not getting power for broil or bake then either the power isn't getting to the board or the board is toast.
There should be a terminal on the board that is labeled "L2 in". You should be getting 120v there all the time.
Remember to test power to your elements they need to be disconnected from the element so you can test each leg independently.
Yes there is 120v on l2 in. I did check that but didn't mention. I believe it's the big relay just above the l2 out.
Also, everything else works fine. Convection fan and element etc
And thank you sir
@HouseDoctorRay fixed. It was an unsodered pin on the control panel. It was one of the five pins that connect the relay or whatever above the L2 power supply and out connector. Many thanks. Subbed
Awesome! Glad you fixed it and thanks for the sub.
My problem is that the light that turns off when the temp reaches certain temperature doesn't turn off and the temperature keeps rising, is this problem relating to the thermostat or to another faulty part?
Likely the thermistor
hello everyone is it possible for a motor to have proper resistance and still be bad . like its getting power 120 but still not running so board is good too.. can anyone help plz
Sure. The bearings or bushings could be bad or the motor could be jammed in some way.
The motor should spin with the power off.
Nice, i think likely my relay is rusted. So it turn on the oven automatically.
Where to buy the relay? Can I used one from microwave?
Or is possible to open the relay to clean up the rust?
You need a relay of the same size and specifications. It's possible the contacts in the relay burnt and stuck together. Normally you have to carefully cut them open to get to the contacts.
There is a link in the video description where I bought my relay from but you need to make sure you get the correct relay for your application.
@@HouseDoctorRay i just open it, found out one leg of chip burn out. ULN2003A. Now I need to figure out how to open it to replace the chip without making any other damage
Great video! So my control board (Maytag) immediately goes to 177 degrees when turn on, instead of 350. Once it's on and I try to set it to 350, it will only go to 260. At this point I've just tried power cycling the oven, but that didn't do anything. The oven still works, but it ignores the settings and gets really hot...so it's impossible to reliable bake anything in it. I suspect the controller board, but was hoping for something less painful. Any ideas where to start? I'm fairly capable. I never considered soldering on circuit board, but would consider trying it. Thank you in advance.
Try leaving the power off for at least 30 minutes but it sounds like you're going to need a board.
Just wanted to update you and ask another question. Turned the breaker off overnight and the on the next morning - same issue. So I'm looking for the control board online and have found prices ranging from $250-$600. I'm sure you can't endorse any online reseller, but do you, or any of your followers, have a suggestion about online resellers that can be trusted? thanks again! @@HouseDoctorRay
@@HouseDoctorRay Thank you. I tried that and unfortunately it did not work. I'm looking for the board online now and finding a lot of choices at $250-$600 in range. Do you or any followers of this channel know of a reputable online retailer for such things? $250 sounds great when compared to the high end, but only if you actually get a working board. Thanks again!!
@daleedwards7940 I've used RepairClinic.com with no complaints. They also give you the manufacturer's part number on the detail page so you can price compare.
@@HouseDoctorRay Thank you. Yes, I found them and they're at the high end of the estimates I provided earlier. I suppose it would be worth the additional $300+ to have the piece of mind that the person/company I'm dealing with is legit. Thank you again.
What do u do when u can’t turn
It on at all & it’s thrown the breaker?
Ok so my problem is weird. As soon as I plug my oven in. The oven turns on both bake and broil go to the highest temp The stove top works fine. But the oven turns on on its own. Do I need to replace the mother board?
Probably.
Why did you disconnect the plug from the Range???
Have to on mine to remove the back cover.
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a similar problem as mentioned in other comments, the difference being, I have 120 V on the broiler and the bake elements on one side. Neither element bake or broiler are heating at all and I get the F9 code not heating on the bake side. Power coming in is correct as your video shows on all Points. Is this a complete control board replacement problem?
Unfortunately you probably need a board. Before you order it just make sure that the two wires coming off of your connection point are good.
One side goes directly to your elements, the other goes through the control board and out to the other side of the elements.
Try cutting the power for 5 minutes and see if 'rebooting' helps.
@@HouseDoctorRay I did a reboot when I first had the problem, and still got the F9 code. Then I went through all the checkpoints as per your video.. and now I’m doing another test and I can hear the relays clicking for the oven bake. No heat cold.. power coming in is 240 and 120 on each side. Relay clicking on and off after a few seconds.. still nothing will preheat.
So just a sidenote, it’s doing the same thing on the broiler, as well as the bake element.
Disconnect the leads from the element and carefully check the leads with the oven on bake. You should read 120 from each lead to the neutral and 220 from one lead to the other.
It's possible both relays are bad but unlikely. Might be worth a shot changing them.
When I test the busbar, im getting 240v on the red and white and 0v on the black and white. Any idea what’s going on?
Sounds like your red and white are wired to power.
Shut off the power, disconnect leads from oven, turn power back on and check all three against each other.
Should be
Red - black 240
Red - white 120
Black - white 120
White - ground/green 0
A short in the oven could give you weird readings.
@@HouseDoctorRay no that’s the funny part. The red and black are the 2 hot leads. That’s why it’s so puzzling. When I test them disconnected from the busbar they read as they should. It’s only when they are connected that the red is over and the black is at zero. I’m not sure how the busbar functions. Could a bad busbar be the cause. I just don’t understand how the voltage is jumping over to the red lead when it’s connected.
Anything is possible. The leads could be getting contact somehow once the screws are tightened down. A stuck relay could be connecting wires that shouldn't be connected when the oven is off.
Switch to Ohms and start tracing the wiring diagram with the power off and the power leads disconnected.
Just replaced the relay yesterday for the baking /bottom element. Worked great and finally heated up as it wasn't before. Today its back to not working again. What could it be?
Could be the relay failed again. They are really light duty.
Also check the terminals that go onto the element and the board. They can get burnt.
@@HouseDoctorRay but one use? Control board looks good. What could cause it to be blowing the relay? We have another one but if it going to 🤷♀️. I'd hate to replace the control board just to have it happen again
Possibly not fully soldered. It could also be something else on the board is bad burning up the coil on the relay.
The only way to know for sure is to get back in there.
@@HouseDoctorRaywe have run out of ideas. Replaced the same relay again and still not working. Not sure what else would cause not heat to the bake element. Everything we have tested. Tests fine. Nothing burnt etc
@valeriehofmann2615 If you're not getting 220 across those two leads then the only thing left is a control board.
Anybody know how to reset my induction element that shows error code "EA"❓
First thing to try is turn off the breaker for at least ten minutes. While the breaker is off press a few buttons to drain the capacitors and hopefully reset the computer.
Don't pull the door! I ended up with a handle in my hand and glass on the floor lol
Sorry that happened to you. I don't know any other way to get it out.
@@HouseDoctorRay Open the door and reach up near where the broiler is there's a lip and it's easier to slide that way
@mikelee2501 Thanks! Never knew that.
Good info. Had almost same experience only that my relay contacts welded shut and my oven going into meltdown mode. Was there when it failed, oven alarmed over temp and was stinking. I tripped breaker to shut it down. This was Kenmore. Interesting facts, the broiler element has an over temp click switch mounted on rear of cavity in series with element. The oven element does not have this over temp switch, maybe because of the self clean function. I replaced the relay which was a dinosaur and only available eBay and I added an over temp switch to oven element also. I replaced both relays, disassembled both and the broil was in worse condition but hadn’t failed yet. Was a close call, we could have had a fire.
Crazy. I didn't spot an overtemp fuse anywhere on mine. It is ridiculous how cheap those relays are considering it's basically a direct 220V short.
Pilot want light
Right near it is a probe. Clean it with Scotch Brite or emery cloth.
I can’t even get mine to do anything & the breakers rolled to off….
Relay is defective
This is for electric ovens not gas ovens.
The electric companies are cheap and they don't want to use good insulators and route the wires away from each other put them in on top of each other and no insulation between it and the housing
You can't check for continuity while you're powering it. You meant to say voltage test? Continuity measures ohms/resistance. Power has to be off. You mean voltage check the relay after you power it. People don't mess up your multimeters.
Perhaps you don't know how a relay works.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it.
Thanks!
Wow! Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
@@HouseDoctorRay Of course!