BREAKING Every Filament | PLA, ABS, PETG, PLA+ and More!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- The Ultimate Engineering Filament Series is here to teach you about ALL the different materials available for consumer 3D printers. This video covers the basic filaments, PLA variants, PCTG and ASA. Future videos will cover Nylons, Carbon- and Glass-Fiber filaments, and resin-printed materials.
== TIMELINE ==
00:00 Intro
01:01 Backstory
02:21 Flexure Test (PLA & PP)
04:27 Impact Test (PLA & PP)
08:34 ABS
09:50 PETG
11:45 TPU
13:24 Baseline Results
14:02 PLA+
15:35 PLA Pro
16:58 Tough PLA
18:27 PCTG
20:46 ASA
21:38 Outro
== Links ==
Polymaker ABS: amzn.to/47zJhuz
SainSmart TPU: amzn.to/47wC12f
Duramic PLA+: amzn.to/3QBNTtW
Polymaker PLA Pro: amzn.to/3DWb2Q9
Inland Tough PLA: amzn.to/44bPYzX
Fiberlogy PCTG: np3dp.com/products/fiberlogy-...
3DXTech PCTG: www.3dxtech.com/product/max-g...
Polymaker ASA: amzn.to/3scuANN
=== CORRECTIONS & NOTES ===
* PRICES: The prices I list for these materials are VERY approximate, I went with a general median-ish prices across Amazon and a few filament distributors. The prices I show are likely to track relative differences within a given brand/distributor, even though it's possible to find individual filaments cheaper if you're not picky about brand. In future videos we're going to see filaments that cost $100+ per kg!
* It turns out that PLA+ is NOT a well-defined material. Watch the first 5 minutes of this video to find out more. Also the Slant3D channel is great in general, that guy is super knowledgeable and communicates/teaches really well: • The Truth About PLA+ |... . That said, Duramic PLA+ is a well-known brand of PLA+, and this video shows it has concrete advantages over PLA, it just may not match other brands of "PLA+" - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Fantastic video!
Thank you for this video! I never thought much of PLA+, but based on these tests, I'll consider it in the future. I realy like that you give clear numbers and graphs. Looking forward to the next video, but even more to the exotics one!
This video is greatly appreciated. I was always on the look for a video with this amount off information. Thank you.
I thought ASA was a safer alternative to ABS…… never mind
Huh does that mean hips has the same styrene voc issues
Like your work! Keep it up!
PETG is quite good at being printed fast, from people who do. You have to balance the speed, the temp and cooling as the general advice says to lower the cooling, but if you raise temp and speed, you will eventually need a lot of cooling.
But quite a lot of people report their PETG parts being brittle and fix that with switching the fan off. According to what I said above, can be also fixed with more speed and temp but if someone has an Ender with a huge upgraded fan but not much else, they might not have this option.
I print everything with max 60mm/s and use full cooling of my first 40x20 fan, and now the stock 40x10 fan of Sprite extruder, and my PETG prints are quite strong. I admit I don't hit them with the hammer but they fall to the tiled floor often enough.
Great video!
Great video series, can't wait for the next one.
Fantastic video. Super controlled testing is great for data sheets, but "How rough can I be with a hammer" is also a practical/relatable example of these materials for the average joe.
I didn't really mention it in the video but one of my motivations was to know how these different materials fail. Like if I'm going print a bracket to hold things together, is it going to collapse suddenly with shattered pieces, or will I see it stretching or bending before disaster happens? what if I bump into a wall while carrying it? That kinda stuff is tough to deduce from a TDS.
Thanks for watching! Glad you liked it
Amazing vid 🎉 Delrin benchy is boss 😮 you Jammed your PP in the extruder and it was soooooo long lol How did it fit in here 😅
Hah! Of all the filming I've done for videos on this channel, that clip is probably my favorite. I captured my genuine astonishment at just how badly Polypropylene can jam your extruder! Thanks for watching!
@@ObsessiveEngineering same here that was incredible. The extruder basically respooled the filament lol
love this content, i am just about to make a start on my uni final year project on exploring the use of ultem for aerospace. Has already done a shit tone of testing on the material itself with many different conditions (e.g. -50 degrees c to +80 degree c, wet and dry environement), aswell testing in different printing oriantation xy xz z45 and also using thirdparty test data to compare to my own data so that i am confident in the results i got. Have over like 100 pages of just data and counting. aswell going to come up with an fea process for fdm parts and compare to real world test results to verfy it comparable.
What printer are you using for Ultem? I assume it's an industrial printer? I actually have 250g of PEI it and I was going to try to get a 3dbenchy out of it. It might be a stretch since I can only get my chamber up to 60-65C, but nozzle goes up to 400C, and 3dbenchies are small, so I might be able to squeak by.
@@ObsessiveEngineering yeah industrial printers printing on a stratasys fortus 900mc, i been printing ultem at 80 to 200 chamber temps, with a nozzle temp between 400 to 450 , with 5 degrees inverals, as you can image alot of different combinations can just be doen from these two. But it is possible to to pritn with 60-65 hamber temp just need ensure zero fans and crank the hotend as hot as you can. I got some very interesting results unfortately i wont be able to share as it for my company aswell as being my uni project so NDA had to be signed lol.
What surface do you use? Obviously I don't want to print PEI on a PEI build plate 😅. 3DXTech recommends Kapton tape, so I'll try that first (if I ever build up the courage to try it). However, mine is ultem 9085 which supposedly only requires 350-380C nozzle according to the 3DXTech site, but 140-160C bed :(
@@ObsessiveEngineering we uses these high temp sheets from Fortus themself not sure what they made out of as they dont really tell us that. But from personal experience G10 that sanded with 600 grits is useable for printing PEI, yeah Ultem 9085 is the one i am doing the work on aswell. Bed temp need to be quite hot it loves to warp hence such high chamber temp i am doing. 350-380 that seem to be quite low for 9085 on the nozzle but it is possible to print at that temp but might lose some strength due to thermal stress. I have found that printing at lower temp massively weakens the material espcially interlayer strength. One suggestion that can atleast fix the issue with thermal stress after printing is to put it into an oven of some sorts keep it around 175 ish basically annealing the part but it wont fix interlayer adhension. I also recommand to run a macro to keep the chamber hot even after it printed allow it to cool down in the hot chamber offer better results.
Excellent advice, thanks! Though, I probably won't spend that much effort on it because I already know I don't have the right setup to do *useful* things with PEI. I really just want the translucent-gold boat in my display case 😁
Please check out straight PET (and CF filled PET) at some point too. Probably the best layer bonding you can get in FDM.
Interesting! I haven't actually come across PET/PET-CF before. Based on the description for PET-CF on Bambu's store, it does appear to be something I should add to my lineup. Where do you get your PET and PET-CF?
@@ObsessiveEngineering Up to now I've gotten PET as "HTPET" from Fusion Filaments, but they've had difficulties that made them suspend production at least for now. My present source for new material, aside from my FF stockpile 😁 is pultrusion-recycled bottle PET which seems to have identical print & material properties (this could be interesting to test) but is a bit labor intensive to get in bulk.
How did the ninja flex armadillo perform on these metrics?
Good question! I didn't use that filament on these tests, although I still have some left from my previous video. However, even if I could get a good benchy out of it, in pretty sure it will simply get a zero for stiffness and 10 for durability. These tests aren't really suited to flexibles.
One day I'll get around to finishing this video series... (I already did all the work, I'm just slow editing videos)
bro, where's part 2?
I got distracted with other content. But part 2 is like 70% done, and I have all the footage and data already collected for all 4 parts. I'll get there... eventually. Thanks for watching!
Not super scientific by randomly banging on something and estimating how much force you hit it with or if you hit the exact same way or place on the model and so on. Other than that it's a good vid, looking forward to the next bit!
Rigor isn't required to learn something from the experience 😉 I hope you got something out of it at the end!
No, not scientific. But that clamp test in the vise is demonstrate everything i actually wanted. You can literally feel how the material behaves rather than looking at numbers.