3x7 Drivetrain - Good or bad? | Is a 1x setup a better choice for Mountain Bikes?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2019
- The 3x7 drivetrain is used on many entry level mountain bikes. It can be found on Walmart bikes and local bike shop brands too. Is it useful considering the other drivetrain options available today? Would you prefer a low end 1x drivetrain, even a 1x7, over a 3x7 with a 14-28t range like is found on bikes like the Trek Marlin 4?
Personally, I prefer a 1x over even the best 3x setups, and I think most people do too since the 1x11 and 1x12 SRAM drivetrains are so popular.
Comment below with your opinions. Maybe our combined voice can help steer what comes equipped on future bikes!
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Completely depends upon what the bike is for. If it’s a trail bike, a 1x is solid. If you’re looking for long gravel rides, a 2x may be better.
depends. you jump to a 36 and go with a 46 in the rear. then Ill take a 1x.. you get enough speed and the same climb gearing as a 32-42
Chris Trawick what if it’s a street setup? Just riding around with my wife. 1x good for me?
gravel bikes are split between 2x road style gears, or 1x XC style gears. Also depends on where you ride, if you're a flatlander, gearing probably doesn't matter. I live in Wyoming, and ride in both Wyoming and Colorado, we have huge, brutal climbs. Give me that 50t cassette all day, and the 30t 1x drive so the rocks don't keep rattling my chain off.
Agreed, I commute with my bike and the ride has plenty of hills, whilst I mostly use the 2nd up front, the 1st really helps when going a up a steep one and the 3rd one is very nice to have once on flats/downhill
In trail biking constant speed drive chain is better! And if you want to increase your speed it defends your stamina, because even your rear shift gear is on the smallest fastest gear if your stamina Is weak! then your performance will be affected!
I've been riding and used to race for 23 years. I build all my wheels and build all of my bikes. 2x/3x can do anything the 1x system can do, but the opposite is not true. The trade off for the limitation is claimed to be:
1. less weight
2. simplicty
3. more efficiency
Now, that being said, how much speed is the weight you save from going 1x, going to give you? If you are a recreational rider, not much. If you are a racer looking for optimal performance, still very little (from weight alone).
Simplicity - are 2x/3x systems more difficult to understand? Maybe if you don't understand how leverage works or ratio's. I think if you don't understand that concept, I doubt you know how to fix a flat. If you don't know how to fix a flat, you are riding around the block.
1x systems puts the chain at extreme angles, increasing friction, so the idea that they are more efficient is false. So does the narrow wide pulley's and chainrings.
If your bike is to be as versatile as possible, be able to be geared for long distance, short distance and be able to handle a load, there is no more versatile system than something like a 3x with 11-34 cassette in the back. This is the one bike for all solution.
If you ever ride more than 2 hours on a bike, 2x/3x, you appreciate the fewer gaps in gear ratios when you want to change speeds during such an effort. 1x is incredibly annoying in this respect with the large gaps and thus changes to your cadence with each gear change.
Having multiple sets of ratios, even if ratio's are redundant, is a feature which makes a bike far more capable and with less limitations. 1x is one set of ratio's with large gaps in between the gears, which does a poorer job at maximizing pedaling energy over longer distances. More sets of smaller gear increments is mostly better. The best 1x that isn't is a Pinion transmission system.
I've had a rear derailleur that was jammed from mud and stopped shifting. My front derailleur still worked and I was able to finish the ride using the chainrings!
Agreed I find 1X very annoying with those massive gaps in gear ratio. Just cant get used to it, my ride is so much slower and sluggish thus less fun since switching to 1X. Looking to switch back to 2X and get off this MTB trend train.
Ehhhhhhhhh the weight difference is much more noticeable, even for average riders.
The difference when climbing is massive. Even if you're not racing or setting Strava times, it's something you will notice.
I do think, as said in the video, there is an argument for 2x7 speed drivetrain, but even that is at the limit of what most people would prefer in trail functionality.
1x drivetrains drop chains significantly less, and the argument "chains are stressed more" is flawed. The entire reason 1x11 or 12 became mechanically viable was because chain/chainring mass production quality improved allowing bigger gearing jumps and sharper chain angles.
The biggest benefit to 3x would be easier shifting to make effiecent speed adjustments... But that ignores the times you need to go from "full-speed-downhill" gear to "steep-rockface uphill-climb gear".
Imo 3x becomes preferable once trails are mellow enough to be conquered by gravel grinders and voila.... Most of them are 2x or 3x.
New chains and drivetrains break and wear out slower than they did years ago. It's not even close.
MTB faces it's share of overhype marketing gimmicks, but this is something the mountain bike world has been after since the 90's. It's why 1x has been the only standard in the rough world of downhill riding since then.
Now the manufacturing is finally there. Microshift just dropped their 9-speed drivetrain to compete with slx and nx. They wouldn't have even attempted that if they didn't know the advantages were at least probably worth it.
@@RD1R 1x for DH makes sense, but this is a very narrow market audience. I still won't go 1x because 2x allows my bike to be more versatile without having to change out any parts. The gaps are narrower which I prefer as well. The weight savings aren't as important as having better gearing leverage .
@@SurpriseMeJT I mean do you.
Honestly if something works well for you keep doing it. But there's reasoning past "big bike company marketing" that has led the mtb world to where it is now.
@@RD1R There are plenty of innovations in cycling I can say that didn't improve much. In road cycling, I still think 31.8 handlebar mounts are overkill, as are oversized lower headset crowns. For all of cycling, pressfit bottom brackets are less stiff due to the compression of the nylon/plastic bearing carrier. All industries adopt changes that also simply increase sales, even if the changes do not yield advantages. Why would the industry do this? They know that change sells, like creating trends which everyone then follows, increasing revenues.
Look at plus sized tires sizes - there was a short time when 27.5+ was gaining steam, then it totally dropped off. What about 29+? Larger wheels were better, except now, 650b based frames in road/gravel are all the rage. MTB's are so good now, I expect the industry to invent new ways of getting people to buy new ones because the improvements are getting more and more incremental.
My son's Walmart hyper with 20" tires came with 1x7(14-28t) swapped the freewheel to a Mega range and derailleur to handle the 34t on it. He loves it now he can wheelie that heavy bike all day. Love your videos.
1x10/11/12 is great for trails. But 2x is better when you’re riding on the road more or bike touring. The extra gear range and smaller jumps between the gears is definitely worth it. My deore 2x10 setup is lighter than NX 1x12 anyways.
I have a 3-7, I use it to commute from and to work (~4 miles) living in quite hilly area -- meaning non-stop up and down -- with sections up to 20 degrees off road - there's is no way in hell I'd go with a 1-9 or 1-7. Being able to just throw the front down a set is the best thing ever and makes climbing so much easier.
Same same, I'd stick with a 3x gearing esp if you're going uphill and downhill frequently. The ratios are much more convenient to use than a 1x. I would probably only go with a 1x if the terrain is usually just flat. 🤷🏻♂️
I love my 2x10 42T Deore on my MTB. Perfect for climbing and long rides, 1x10 seemed tempting but i went for the 2x10 for the gear range, and loving it!
As a wheezing 67 year old, I can't push a big ring on dirt , so I just went 2x on my BD mtb. I fitted a bash ring to prevent chain drops and my next step is a Reynold fork to replace the heavy pogosticks since big air ain't happening.
Love this channel .
I have 3 x 7 specialized mtb and I honestly love it. Kev the problem I have with 1x systems is the cross chaining issue, also it’s the noise factor when shifting the chain to the last gear. On top of that it’s mostly price. 1x11, 1x12 that just sounds expensive.
Another benefit to 1x drivetrains is that it's far less confusing for novice riders. It can be very counter-intuitive to a mechanically disinclined person that you need to shift one way on one shifter and the opposite way on the other, to continue shifting down or up, as the situation calls for it. A 1x setup keeps everything far simpler by only having one shifter that you operate one way to get a taller gear, and the other to get a shorter one. Way more user-friendly.
This is a great point.
I have an old suntour front derailleur that was designed to pull the opposite way from other front derailleurs so you would shift both shifters in the same direction but the idea never caught on with other manufacturers.
@@newttella1043 It's a stupid point, and was never a problem for 40 years.
@@truantray Lots of things have not been a problem for 40 years. It's about making things better.
@@newttella1043 No buddy, its about making provit!!! In the 21st century All Bike brands are creating products that wear out faster. Means customer needs to buy products faster. They dont produced 1x drivetrain to be longlasting! Longlasting was the 8 or 9 speed chain with 2 or 3 sprockets.
I used to use a.2x set up believing that i needed a bail out gear for climbing but I've noticed that with the right gear cluster I no longer need the granny gear for bail out gear. I'm now a 1x convert.
I have a Rocky Mountain Fusion 910 2017 model that came factory with 3x9. I converted to 1x9 last summer and never looked back. I use the bike for everything from trails to commuting up and down hills. It's the best. Great video Kev!
Hello and thank you Kev, I enjoy your videos and your very direct and smooth delivery. My daily driver is a thrift store self restored 1985 Univega. I tried riding without front derailleur but chain kept jumping off over bumps so I reinstalled over small chainring giving me a 1x6 setup and it works OK for now. Have never found a decent front derailleur and use it only to keep the chain on the chainring. Looking forward toward your future bike insights. Cheers!
I have a 3x8 and 3x9 on my mountain bike and road bike respectively. I don't really care that my mtb has a triple setup, but I absolutely love the granny gear on my road bike. In my part of the country, Colorado, there are some outstanding but extremely long mountainous rides. Having the granny gear makes it dead simple for me to switch into the easiest gear when I feel like I can't do it any more. Plus, I've heard that if I ever want to go bike touring (I don't but whatever), a triple setup is the best on a road bike.
My current commuter bike has an internally geared 8 speed hub. I switched to it from a 3 x 7 commuter bike. I've never really felt that appreciation for the 1X simplicity that others rave about. To me, once you've ridden a 3x for a few days, changing gears becomes extremely intuitive.
On my road bike I love my 7speed setup. 14/28 freewheel cluster and 50/34 compact cranks gives me all the gearing I need. I live in New York and haven't been on any runs that forces anything more for me personally. Just hate the lack of options with 7speed shimano equipment.
I created a Frankenstein road bike on the cheap lol Worked out great.
I am not a huge bicycle guy. They do interest me, but I’m not an enthusiast at all. That being said, your content in videos have absolutely GRABBED me and sucked me in. I can’t stop watching and I always look forward to your next video. I’m looking forward to either waiting for OR finding more “how-to” videos from you. Thanks for the information and entertainment!
I was stubbornly holding on to my 2-by until a local bike shop stripped the hole that the front derailleur mounts to.
Turned out to be a blessing in disguise.
Love my 1-by.
A year ago I've bought a big box bike with a 3x8 system (Altus rear derailleur) for my commuting to work. When I've start to get into this biking thing and learn some mechanical stuff, i've decide to convert to 1x8. Tbh I couldn't be happier with it, simple, clean & usefull. The shimano Megarange helps a lot with the stiff climbs.
MegaRange 1x7 is all I need. Simplicity is beautiful.
Although, internally geared hub on my reliable singlespeed would be nice.
Do you think I should convert to a 1x8? The front gears on my mountain bike are pretty large for climbing up hills and on the trail in my area, You need to do lots of pedaling. I don't know if getting a 1x would make it easier to climb up hills.
I have a 2x 11 and I love it. I can easily change it too a 1x if I want some less weight for a ride and then change it back if I’m going to ride something super steep.
Nachos and a new Kev C video..my weekend is off to a good start:)
Thanks for the video!! Answered some questions fasho
If you have a quality 3x9 drive train and a good chain guide, it feels amazing. It climbs just as well, the deraulier doesn't sound clunky and you cannot feel the weight
I have to say that after riding the Hyper Explorer with it's 1x9 drivetrain I was impressed. It had enough tall gearing that I could get up to good speeds, but also low enough gearing that I had no trouble tackling steep hills around town. It actually seemed to take hills better than my old 3x6 18-speed bike. Gears were spaced out well enough that I could find a gear for a comfortable cadence. I may have to rethink this subject. ;-)
I love watching all of your videos I have learned a lot I know a little bit about Bike now I'm learning more thank you for your videos
I think your observations are dead on 👍🏼 keep up the great work
The trick is to have a 3x9 drive train :D
Which is why Shimano still has nowadays 3x11 even on Deore XT, the less cranks you have at front means lesser range available on the fastest and lowest speed possible.
That being said, I think 2x is a sweet spot between the two approaches.
If you are having fun thats all that matters. Latest and greatest equipment doesnt make you faster😂
JellyForSale lol my bike came stock with a 3X10, switched to a 1X10 a couple months later
mine is 3x8 and i'm happy with it I can go on long steep climbs and descends as well
@@larmishing i am keeping my 3*10 until i can get a wider range cassette
One by setup on all my bikes. I've done the switch 5 years ago and never looked back. So much better than the 3 by drivetrains.
and i pass u cause i can drive faster cause i got 3x10 with 42x11 ya probably never want go faster then 16 but thats snail speed for me
@@dslashdoodlezz ok ur bike can go fast but u sure ur legs can? lol
Ooo salut!
@@ezboah7183 his just a sprinter not a runner
what it is?
You hit the nail in the head when I talk to people about bicycles the first thing they said is how many speeds their bike has ( the give away . I don't know much about the bicycle world ) I don't know much but I'm learning and I know there are many factors to consider when it comes to choose a bicycle other than number of speeds. Although when it comes to three by drives I think they are good for a gravel bikes. Going back to your GT aggressive video I give mine a break from the trails and he has become my gravel bike any does a fantastic job. 3X drive has make a big difference for me there
@KevCentral you certainly have the most pimped-out ali-express bike on youtube! -tbh though, I am a professional bike mechanic and I can honestly say the first half of the video was a great way to explain things to newbies!
I know many new riders that gave up riding due to problem with over complicated drivetrain. Best to start with 1X or internal hubs. You don't need more than 7 gears for casual riding.
I'm surprised more lower priced bikes don't go to a lower cost 1x set up. Seems like they would save some money on not having to install a front derailleur, crank set, etc.
Unfortunately, manufacturers only make 1x10,11,12 drivetrains at the top of their product hierarchy.
Tom Herron I agree completely
@@air_preep Nothing to stop them from keeping the 7 or 9 speed rear and just putting a bolt on front narrow wide chain ring. The reason they don't, I suspect, is the same reason they make them riveted on. Then the whole bike, to a normal person, is disposable, where as a chain ring could be replaced fairly easily by Joe Schmo from Sheboygan.
@@abadathaThey don't even need a narrow wide, just 7 speed spaced tooth profiles and some plastic chainguards on both sides as seen at 4:03
@@brauljo I mean on the front, because that's what is standard on 1x drive trains.
Kev - you have done many really excellent vids - I have appreciated your ability to transfer knowledge to others and clearly explain things for quite some time! Now to enter the drive train debate....
As Chris Trawick said to start this off, it all depends upon how you use your bike! Street riding, particularly in hilly terrain, encourages use of 3x7. Trail riding does not require the high "road" speeds (at least while you pedal), so high gears are not as needed, so you can build for the hill (1x).
Years ago I had a Desiree road bike (built in Santa Barbara). It had a 27" 21 speed, 3x7 setup in a "granny + half-step" configuration. Front was 60/50/26 and rear was 34/13. Oh yes, the Desiree also had slightly longer than usual crank arms to get more torque. I just used the five rear cogs closest to my chainring alignment: the inner 5 for the granny, the middle 5 for the 50 tooth and the outer 5 for the 60 tooth monster, to cut down on cross chaining.
When hauling loads up a steep hill, I needed that granny (Ortega Hill near Carpenteria with a heavy load of gear)! And when going as fast as I could on the 60/13 on the level to work, I could hit about 45 MPH (both the math and the 45 MPH speed limit road right outside my house where the cars just barely crawled past me indicated I was actually going about 45 MPH @ 120 RPM pedal speed). Since I ride street, I need both the low gears (out of shape now, steep uphill to my house, with 40+ pounds of groceries) and big gears ('cause I still like to push myself on slight downhills to 40+).
I can see a 1x drive train working for a mountain bike as one would rarely be hitting anything over 30 MPH pedaling (but, oh, that cross chaining!), along with shorter crank arms and the smaller chain ring (just to not bottom out on the trail). For hilly street riding, a 3x7 works well but is complicated to learn to shift. And too many beginner bicyclists have no patience to learn to properly shift, so they usually stick it on the middle or outer chainring and just use the rear derailleur. The real question is where do you ride and how experienced are you as a rider.
Thanks for reading my rant!
I ride my bike to work everyday. I need the big front crank... love your show. Thank you
I love the simplicity of 1x but I’m still using 2x10 on both of my bikes at the moment. Never had a problem and at this point, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Now when they do break, 1x will be the obvious replacement. But until then, I’ll happily use all 20 of my selectable ratios.
WALL OF TEXT INCOMING . The greatest benefit of the 1x setup is its simplicity. The more simple a mechanism is the less maintenance, the less wear, the less damage prone it will be. The 1x is the ideal setup IF YOU HAVE ADEQUATE GEARING IN THE BACK. The thing that limits the 1x is the rear derailleur complexity and cost of that complexity. The only reason 10 and 11 speed rear mechs are expensive is because those setups need complex and well manufactured parts. ON THE OTHER HAND the 3x setup takes that complex rear mech and deverts that to the front with an extra 2 chain ring sizes and ranges. That is why they are used so often on cheaper bikes. In my opinion the ultimatum to this is by having a 1x9 setup. A 1x9 is not as complex as a 10 or 11 but it has the benefits of the 1x and not the large cost. Another factor that really sucks is that the 3x options are always rivoted cheap steel. If they were not rivoted it could give a greater upgrade path for a 2 or 1x setup. If only Walmart and manufacturers would wise up and offer more 1x9 setups then it would lead the industry towards recognizing the savings a 1x setup would add to their manufacturing costs and further drive down the cost of more complex 10 and 11 speed options.
Some of the 3X setups from the past were high end alloy and not cheap.
1x9 simply doesn't have the range, 1x11 or 1x12 is the way to go
@@danhenderson783 some 9 speed cassets have a good range
@@danhenderson783 might i remind you that you can buy 11-42t 8 speed cassettes now? And 11-48 10s?
@@TheDustyShredder and which stock derailler is rated to work with those? if you want a stock setup with a clutch mech your options are 1x10 with 11-42 cassette. If you want 11-46 you'll need 11 speed
@@ultiss jgbike sells extensions for your hanger. There ya go, chainwrap issue fixed.
I don't even have a bike right now but between the video content and the comment section I feel at-home here 😊
I liked it, very practical and useful.
I (still) run a 3x9 drivetrain and I'll say I'm pretty happy with it although I have thought of upgrading it to a 1x or a 2x multiple times.
For me the ideal would be a 2x10 or maybe a 1x12. I want a big gear ratio, anything below 1x11 or even a 1x12 in some cases is kind of too little for my likings.
Good content Kev, as usual. I pretty much agree, except for one product I have just resently become aware of. Sure, Sram and Shimano 1x upgrades are wonderful, as well as others, but they are also expensive, at least by my standards. Enter Advent Microshift 1x9 group. Tough, durable group, does not work with other brands, uses your own crank/chainring and 9 speed chain. It's a clutch derailleur, 11-42 9spd cassette, (shimano hub compatible), and 2 shifter options, 3 or 4 if you're a roadie. Total cost???$125.00 +/- USD. Reviews I've read seem outstanding. All confirm it works better than the price may indicate. Sram NX certainly has my attention, but, this microshift trumps it, at this moment. Think I'm pulling the trigger next payday. If you're not already aware of this product, I believe you would at least appreciate it, if not try/use it. I also just got my 11-50 cassette for shimano hubs, in 9 speed off Amazon Bolany brand. Setting it up now on my full suspension. I'll have to get back with you on how it works. Wish me luck!
For $125 you could buy a Shimano Deore clutch derailleur, shifter, and a 11-42 10-speed cassette. Have I missed something?
@@thelawnet I just came from Amazon, Deore shifter - $84.00, Shimano cassette 11-42 @ $49.00, and cheap shimano shifter $40.00. That's $173.00, plus chain and n/w chainring. Plus the Advent Microshift group comes in a little lighter. Seems both have similar warranties. Not a huge difference, but, with the money I save from not buying Shimano, I can then buy a new chain and n/w chainring. Advent microshift clutch derailleur is a new and different design that's easy to set up, easy to adjust, low maintenance, and is repairable if anything does go down, wear out, break, etc. I guess low end parts are just a matter of opinion as to which works best. Good point though on your part...
@@olroymtbetc.6117 those prices are all wrong.
I just checked Jenson, 10-speed Zee shifters (same as Deore) = $21. They didn't have a Deore 10-speed rd but the SLX 11-speed is $50. SHimano 11-42 10sp cassette $35.
Total around $100
@@thelawnet no, my quoted prices are not "wrong". I just don't do business with Jensen. However, it does seem that those are damn good deals. Any shipping charges on that? I may have to go that route on my builds. I will also add that Advents Microshift group offers an 11-46 9speed cassette in their 2019 catalog. Still not as inexpensive as your quoted prices.
Just converted my 3x Hybrid bike to a 1x, and I can only say, what took me so long to make this conversion. It's a no brainer once you tried it out!
@Dick Fageroni Takes one to know one!
I agree! I converted all my multi chain gear bikes over the years for the exact same reasons you have posted. in fact, my current bike is a one by 6( 14-28 in the rear) I'm thinking of swapping the 14-28 for a 14-34.
Early this year i went from a Marlin 7 to a Hightower with a GX Eagle and whenever i get on the Marlin the only thing i dislike is the 3x because shifting feels like a full on event, usually i just slap it in the middle ring and leave it
On my mountain bike (a giant xtc 2 2013) I still run a 3 by 10, I like shifting, and I come from a road bike background so I'm used to 3 by. But I totally agree with you, walmart bikes with 3 by seven are such a pain to get shifting well, and sometimes, it still isn’t perfect when properly adjusted. I think that less expensive bikes should always come with 1 by, since they are more mechanically sound and easier to service. Another thing I found with cheap 3 by drivetrains is that the front derailleur is often man from plastic and prone to cracking which then renders it useless
I’m with you. I also come from a road bike background. We have some very difficult climbs locally. Even if the 1x drivetrain covers most of the gear range a 2x or 3x does, there’s at least a feeling of real relief knowing that the granny is there if you need it. Especially on long rides where you need to save your legs to go the distance.
John York exactly, On difficult climbs I'm always glad to have my easy gears, especially after having ridden over 35+ miles
That's a disclaimer they should put on the bikes. I can't count how many times I've seen negative reviews of bikes that were nothing more than "wouldn't go to small sprocket up front" or "couldn't go to 1st gear on rear" or "couldn't shift to 6th gear", etc. Most of the reviews I've seen like that boil down to usually one common cause, a lack of knowledge by the rider and the break-in period of the bike. Yes, you're gonna have to constantly tweak the derailleurs/shifters to keep it shifting to all gears through the break-in period. I recently got a cheap Huffy and it's required a small tweak every 2 or 3 long rides. lol So maybe the companies should put a message on the bike, "If bike stops shifting into X gear, please read the f*cking manual to resolve this" and even have an entire chapter of the manual devoted to how to slightly tweak a derailleur or shift to get that gear back. 99% of the time there's nothing wrong with the bike. Just a rider who doesn't know it needs a little tweak.
Bought a 3x7 14/34 cassette, used it for 4 years and refreshed it with 3x9 11/36. I have speed and climbing ability, love it.
Great video Kevcentral. I have a 3x10 Road/Mountain Bike Hybrid Bike. It’s a REI Ghost 4.8. I can go VERY fast with this bike and climbing up very steep hills are a breeze. A hybrid 30 speed or a 27 speed upright bike are great if you want a fast commuter without a need for a electric bike. I love all your videos bro 👍👍
I love smoking people with the large gear of my 3x's.
reaper man yeah that's the reason why it took me so long to switch to a 1x. But I mainly only used the middle chain ring.
@@Brian-kr7bw Yours is the reality for most people. So many people conflate gear abundance of gear ratio with gear range. A modern 1x11, and more so 1x12, gives you all the gear range of a 2x. What it lacks are all the intermediate ratios. And most of that is useless.
@@cjohnson3836 1 by is not a good bike when you travel a lot on loot of diffrent terrains. If you could choose cassete to fit the road then is great, but when you have 1 by setup to climb the mountains then yours maximal speed will surfer a loot. Diffrent thing id a hell loot off friction on lowest gears when you realy need this power to progress.
@@mateuszszewczuk1700 No. A modern 1x wide cassette has a top end that you, physically, cannot sustain on the top end. This is simple physics and you aren't Chris Froome. 99% of riders will never tax the extent of a modern 1x drive train. Period.
@@cjohnson3836 This is the one and only argument I've seen that makes sense to me. Why doesn't anyone say this in their videos? My 3x is just fine. I can't believe someone would even want a 1x. Except that for true mtn biking you really only use the 1st chainring anyway. For bikes like mine that I use on the road and off-road, I only use the 1st ring and 3rd ring. 2nd ring for uphill that isn't too steep, but not often. So there's a good argument for people like me who do road and trail to have a 2x. But if a 1x can give you the speed you need going downhill on the street, then you could argue for a 1x even for me.
How do you not have over 1 mil subs?
Because, America is overweight and unhealthy, and biking isn’t the most popular recreation compared to others. However, this pandemic has brought much more attention to the sport, as it’s relatively cheap and most everyone can at least ride a basic bicycle down the sidewalk. It’s a good way to get some basic excercise and you can ride with friends, family, and children. So his channel will continue to grow, albeit slowly.
I ride a 2009 full squish which means it comes with a three by. At first i thought it was horrible but as i learned to tune properly i realized it functions just about as well as any other drivetrain. So if you're worried about potential cost of a conversion it may be more beneficial to spend a couple hours learning how to service your own setup which is priceless and can give you more experience with your bike.
My bmx bikes are single sprockets up front and I wouldn't want it any other way!
I do agree with you that it is marketing for options...cuz people love options.
1x vote here. This winter I converted my son's trek mt220 from twist shifter to a rapid shifter and 1x. Sure it's 1x7 but he's only 7 and won't be climbing any crazy hills. It's much simpler and looks better too.
Thank you so much for making this video, I am planning to convert my 3x7 drivetrain to 1x9
go for 1x10 isnt that price difference.....
I built my mtb 1x9. I'm in love with the sequential gears, it's just up or down, no duplicates, no thinking, no fuss, no hassle.
I found that a 12-34t cassette coupled with a 36t chainring gives me as low a gear as I ever need (almost 1:1), and as high a gear as I will practically find a use for (1:3), and that that range divided in 9 steps just always provides me with a usable ratio to push.
I can imagine maybe wanting a lower gear for *really* technical stuff, or a higher one for making more speed if you race competitively. But based on my improvised 1x9 setup I'm confident that a 1x12 will give you all the range you need and still keep the steps in between manageable.
The bike should be slower and I think you will end spinning sometimes
My opinion
It’s all a personal choice and relevant to rider. And their budget. Recently, I converted to a 1x12 11-50 and never looked back. Why? In that particular bike, it better suits the terrain plus the additional gearing and confidence knowing it’s there. Plus a cleaner cockpit and gear selection up front.
But I could afford to.
The paramount fact is that however you convert a bike, cheap or not, the likelihood of ever recovering from your investment is null.
In return, your benefit is hopefully a better riding experience.
Do your homework and choose wisely.!
Thanks Kev for this fundamental primer, well done.
2x10; I find the 22/42 granny gear to be ideal for climbing the long steep climbs in Colorado, especially on the heavier enduro bikes.There isn't much need for all that top end, so 3x is out.Simple or not,1x10 is just lacking compared to 2x10.
Dont you want a pizza size rear cassette?😂I agree. 34 or 32 and 22 2x10 would be ideal.
I used to race off road in Alaska years ago and rode a 3X 7 speed 12-28 rear with 24-34-46 front and if I were to build a new bike, I would go with exactly the kind of set up you’re talking about. 2X 10 speed. It makes so much more sense than these 1X systems for off road riding. 1Xs are great for downhill, enduro, or more casual riders, but for serious riding and racing, there just aren’t enough gears; especially at the top end and not enough to keep close cadences. I’m sure 1Xs work great for some people, but for the kind of riding I used to do in my younger days, it never would have worked.
@@johndef5075
My next bike, I plan to put a 106 tooth cog on the rear with a 20 tooth chain ring on the front. I’m hoping I can catch branches in between the rear cog and spokes! I should be able to spin at 240 RPM! 😂
I don’t buy these 1X systems for XC. Fine for downhill, enduro, casual trail riding; but not enough gears for hardcore riding.
Fixie, single speed, and 1x7 for life. Never again will I ride a bike with a front derailleur. My fixie gets me everywhere I need to be around town. My SS dirt jumper is a blast to ride on trails, and my 1x7 downhill takes me everywhere else I want to go. No reason to fuss with a more complicated setup for me.
That's fine if you never ride up mountains or do so with some weight on your bike.
Another great video about gear set ups. 1X all day for myself. 🤔👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
Always good content
As a former bike courier I really don't know how I'd give up at LEAST the two in the front, a giant gear in the front lets you speed like a maniac yet still get up damn walls with the tiny one, the middle one I never understood on 3x7 except, maybe, some argument for smoother changing on rough roads, less likely too slip a gear and put a knee into something you'd regret. I can't understand grip shifts though, as most of the time on my bike I'm holding on for dear life and the idea of just...letting go....too shift gears seems profoundly disturbed.
tbh, i only ever use the middle one. 2:3-2:7 is basically enough for anything, and it doesn't bend the chain much at all. Sometimes 2:8 downhill.
Also, grip shifters are the only option for people with issues in their thumbs or index fingers, so, although they're not great, they're the only option for some. They're also dirt cheap!
I just got a Trek Marlin 7 with a 3x9. So far almost all my rides have been using pretty much only the middle front gear. Moreover, Trek basically says don't use gears that cause angles on the chain. I would have happily taken a 1x11 or 2x9 instead.
What Trek meant is don't use largest chainring with largest gear on the back. That would cause problem with angles...
You said yourself you're only using middle front gear. When on the middle chainring, you're free to use all gears in rear derailleur.
So why not remove the front derailleur?
That's referred to as "cross-chaining". I was surprised that Kev didn't mention it in the video--or did I miss it? :)
I just bought a marlin 6 and I basically only use the middle ring unless I am on the street the j use the big ring
@@wtfiswiththosehandles The middle chain ring is larger than a 1x. I like having a big ring in the front for downhill speed, the granny gear for climbing, and the middle ring for all mountain riding.
@@robertmisiuk7137 What? You can have the 1x chainring any size you like. In fact, 32 to 38 size is the most popular these days and will set you back less than $10 on aliexpress.
Wanna bet your middle ring is in 32-38 range?
But anyways, to each his own. When paired with a 11-42 cassette I can climb all I want, and go downhill at about 50km/h which is plenty fast for an MTB.
My old 3 x gave me enough options I could ride hills well but on flat out trails I could almost keep up with a road bike. I haven’t ridden a 1x yet but logic tells me you wouldn’t have a very good top end speed. I like a bike that can do both. I had an old 2003 Jamis Dakar that had great lightweight components on the crank so it wasn’t too heavy with a full suspension. I loved that bike. It was stolen from my garage about a month ago.
I have a 3 x 8 on my 05 giant rincon and I love it and haven’t had a problem
can you do a video on how to convert to 1x
I’ll see if I can make one the next time I convert a bike
KevCentral awesome
It’s super easy. For real. And I’m no mechanic
Did this ever happen?
@@pizzelyp6028 yes, the video is out! With links!
My bike runs a 3x7 drive train. I upgraded the front gearset and that improved gearing for the steep mountain trails I ride but I'm starting to wish that I went with a 1 by and a larger rear cassette. I'll likely go to a 1x13 (or whatever I can get to fit) at some point in the future.
I'm in northern LA with small inclines so I don't know if 21 speed is that necessary. Would 7 speed work??
@@melancholypuppy3595 I think you would be fine so long as the ratios were right.
@@glsracer I'm thinking about getting retrospec as a starter as opposed to a Kent 21 speed is that q good move?
@@melancholypuppy3595 unfortunately I don't know much about those, is that a beach cruiser?
@@glsracer they have beach cruiser but I was more interested in the 7speed city commute because I don't think the single speed would be good since there are some smaller grade inclines and hills if you venture out
1X is one of the biggest game changers for MTB! The dropper seat post too!
Man, guess I gotta consider a 1x before things dry up this spring. I feel a self gifted birthday gift idea.
I've had cheap bikes and I always thought it was cool to have so many gears, then I got my first Belt Drive bike (The Specialized Globe Live 3) with it's 8-speed Shimano Alfine IGH and I found out... 8 is enough, all the others were just unnecessary
yes. totally agree, Kev. I wish to turn my 3x7 to 1x7 to save weight and better reliability.
You may miss it if you ride any hills
@@Mud9 not really dude, im Filipino and my calves are abnormally huge those hills post no challenge!😂😂😂 im kidding no hills here.
Then 1x7 away!
I have a 3x7 and rarely use the biggest front chain ring even on the road. IMO, the biggest benefit to starting with a 3x7 is that I will find it easier going uphill when I upgrade to 1x12 or even a 2x10 drivetrain.
You make great and bicycle videos
I got mine with 3×10 good for street and stiff mountain trails
Is it good on the climbs? Very cool that you went against the grain on your set up!
I have 3x10 too, 11-36T cassette and 22/32/44T chainwheel. I am very happy with it and no desire going with 1x10
I have a 3x7 bike.
I love your videos bro. How much is the wear on the snail/decas chainring. Is the chainring wearing out fast?
I don’t have anything to climb so a single/fixz is what I like with hard pack flat wood trail with some roots and bayou bridge view lol I really like the idea of getting a cheap but upgradeable bike like the schwinn santis 29er .I picked it up for 199 rollback price. so with your crank set recommended and I found a single speed conversion 15 t rear . I will also do a headset conversion to a tapered using the cane creek 40 and fox fork 100m air something I have wanted but could never justify dropping that much cash now I can over time and still get back into riding on the cheap thanks bro
1x is Superior, Lightweight, better gear range as in 10-50t not “22 gears”, less dropped chains, allows manufacturers to make better frames, also it is less confusing for new riders
I do not agree, as a cross country (fitness) rider i find it too hard to find my rhythm on a 1x
But i'm on a mtb since 1993..
Wait, what? Better gear range? Not even close. I love 1x, but gear range is much, much worse than 3x.
LOL. if you get confused by three sprockets, you might have a problem. Not lighter, not better range.
okleydokley You’d be wrong, 1x are way lighter
MasterBata Not in Gear range like 22 gears but more ‘Gear Range like 10-50 tooth’
I absolutely hate it when I’m climbing a steep switchback and I have to deal with a front derailleur that Dosent like to shift under stress
Then just don't use it in those situations. Wouldn't that make more sense than not having it at all when it would actually be useful and effective?
Learn how to lube your chain (gun oil works well) and how to soft-pedal the instant you want the chain to decouple and shift rings.
My chainrings are straight tooth only and shift fine bc I know how to let up
IT's been several years since I rode a derailler equipped bike. I never knew of ANY derailler to shift under stress. And now I read the other replies; The consensus is there aren't any.
Steve Hatfield The Shimano 10speed cassettes shift ok while pedaling but its still dumb to do. It can break teeth or cause chain suck.
I converted my bike from a 3x8 to a 1x8. Great difference in weight. Since I also use the 32 crank wheel most of the time, its the crank wheel I used for 1 by
I know you are basically into MTB and commuter bikes but on my road bike I will stick with my 10+ year old trek 3x. Also have not had probs with my older 3x MTB. I know a guy with a mid-range that has a 1x11 and constantly has probs finding either the top or bottom cog. Perhaps he has a 'lemon' of a bike but the shop has not been able to sort it. Fortunately around here he can get by with the other 9 gears. Agree that the low end stuff can be problematic but is mostly the result of low quality crank and derailleur. Good channel, good content, good info. Thanks.
1x is better by far. Those who ride a lot know that 2 or 3x has gears or "speeds" that are duplicated or very close and makes those gears redundant.
uh, there is a reason for that: to prevent chain and sprocket wear. 1X systems grind the chain at severe angles. The push to 1X is really about making chains sprockets and cassettes more consumable.
okleydokley .......finally someone gets it. Both of my local bike shop mechanics totally agree. They will tell you how they are replacing far more chains, rings, and even cassettes.
morgan roberts sr really!? Hmmm it doesnt sound like much a weight difference either
@Yard Sale Dale this is why i am not making the jump to 10/11/12/13 speed drivetrains. had a 10 speed. with proper maintenance it only lasted half as long as my 9 speed had at the time of "upgrade" switched back and the 9 speed is still kicking a year later, again with proper maintenance. thinner chains, sprockets, and chainrings = faster wear all around
Except you don’t have any tall gears. With a 48 tooth chainring up front I rarely run out of gears, but I’d really like something a little bigger. Being limited to a 34 tooth chainring would suck.
Something that is improperly configured or of very poor quality is always going to be problematic. Though the cheap 3x are heavy compared to a higher quality unit, one of
the worst aspects of big box bikes are the wheels, inner tubes and tires. Most of them use steel rims with very cheap and unreliable and often un-greased bearings. The tires and inner tubes weigh more as well. They use a cheap and heavy rubber or synthetic rubber for them
A 3x doesn't have to be heavy. Though not very often, I have seen pig-iron chainrings on big box bikes. I've also seen pig-iron rear dérailleurs on big box bikes.
To whatever extent they can save money going to a 1 by, I would prefer the savings go towards better lighter rims, tires and inner-tubes than a higher quality rear derailleur. Upgrading a derailleur is a lot easier and cheaper than upgrading the rims.
.
I have 3x10, 2x6, 1x8 and 1x10 and on every last one of them the limitation is me. I do much prefer the cleaner look of a one by system and if that means better brakes or stems that's the way I would go. I have also set up an old steel frame as a fixie and once you are up and running it is a joy to ride. Simplicity, it clears the mind🤗
Before we knew anything about bikes seeing that big number was impressive. However my last walmart bike(not adjusted well) was a very awful 3x7. Found with the next bike the mega range on 3x7 's make a big difference! Then converted to a 2x10. Which has been amazing!
What's a good 1x drivetrain on a budget? I really want to get a 1x drivetrain but I'm still on a budget ...🤔
There isn't one.
Yeah there is. Sram NX
The whole Sram NX is 400 but you dont need the brakes.
Heizenblade, look into Advent Microshift 1x9 group. Just google it, you'll find several resent reviews and sites that sell it. Very reasonable compared to all the others.
@@olroymtbetc.6117 thank you . Will do. 👍👍🤘🤘
I've never rode a bike with a one or two by, but I've never had a problem with my 3 by
That's one of the reasons why I am thinking about the Diamondback Line.
It’s not that I dislike 7 speed, but the shifters and derailers that come with it are terrible. A 9 speed group can be had relatively cheap and offers a world of better shifting and reliability
You know what they say: Less is More
Your wife doesn’t say that 🤣
@@crosisofborg5524 jokes on you I’m single
First!
I mostly do road cycling but bought a Walmart mountain bike(actually dual sport) so I could hit the local trails occasionally and use it for running errands when I don't want to use the car. This bike, a Schwinn DSB, came with the very cheap 3x7 drive train that is talked about here. (stamped steel and riveted crankset, no name front derailleur and a Tourney rear with Shimano V Brake rapid fire shifters) Although I knew I would be quickly upgrading the drive train, I decided to ride the bike just as delivered for a few weeks just to see how a cheap bike performs as stock. I was absolutely amazed at how flawlessly the drive train works. (so much so that if I had not already bought all the upgrade parts I might have decided not to upgraded at all) Other than needing to make a small barrel adjuster tweak in the back, this drive train has shifted perfectly, running whisper quiet for over 500 miles so far (75 of which were on a beginner to intermediate trail where I tried my best to thrash the bike around and make the chain drop or miss a shift, but it worked flawlessly). Each shift is crisp, quiet and spot on. My DuraAce DI2 drive train, thought faster and easier to shift, does not shift any more accurately. They are heavy and probably will not last as long as the high end groups but these drive trains are not finicky or unreliable at all. (By the way, these bikes are not assembled by the Walmart staff, they come nearly fully built and need only have the handlebars, seat and wheels mounted by the staff).
As for 1x versus 2 or 3x, there are, as in all things, pluses and minuses to each. However, over and over again I keep hearing reliability and simplicity as one of the pluses for 1x. However, this is a very, very weak argument for 1xs because while technically they are simpler, a front derailleur is hardly a complex device and if my cheap, no name Walmart front derailleur can work perfectly fine, I don't see how one could argue they are unreliable or finicky. Once set up and adjusted, they are trouble free. This has certainly been true for all my road bikes in over 35 years of riding and so far, this cheap Walmart bike is no different.
The dirty little secret about 1xs that I never hear anyone mention is the inherent chainline problem they create. There is no getting around this when you have 10+ cogs in back and only one ring in front. You are going to have a chain line problem and this places excess side load on the chain, increasing friction and chain wear. And guess what happens when you are in a crossover gear and you back pedal. Your chain is prone to dropping because of the added resistance that causes slack in the chain when back pedaling.
Secondly, though it is often mentioned, it is usually brushed over pretty quickly, you have the problem of too large a gap between gears on a 1x. This leads to the rider being forced to choose a sub optimal gear in some cases, either too tall or too short to keep a good cadence and efficient pedal stroke. This is not good and can even be dangerous is some situations.
In my opinion, the new 1X crazy is just another marketing gimmick by the bike industry to get everyone to think they need to go out and buy a new bike. For years they told us we need more gears. They kept adding gears, going from a common 5 cog rear when I was a kid to 6, then 7, then 8 then 9 then 10 then 11. They finally maxed out how many cogs they could fit in the 135mm dropout spacing. So now, to sell more bikes and parts, they need to start going back the other way and telling us we need fewer gears.
The choice of drive train configuration is a personal preference, there is no absolute best. Much like choosing a saddle. The best one is the one that works for you. There is no absolute, objectively "best" or better here . You should modify your bike or buy a new 1X if that is what YOU like. Don't do it because someone else tells you it is better or because all the other sheepeople are doing it. Test ride one before you dive in, if you can. Make sure it is what is really going to work for you before you commit.
For me, the place for a 1X is on my fixed gear track bike. I will never put a 1X on my mountain bike.
I went 1x10 a few months ago from a 3x8. Best decision on my mtb, I spent about 130 bucks as I didn’t wanna break the bank and I’m so happy. If I ever get another bike I’d probably go even bigger, 1x11 or 1x12. I just my friend into mtb and he bought a used Jamis for 300 bucks but it had a 3x9 and he’s having a hard time learning the gears. He’s already planning on upgrading to 1x also.
i'd prefer 1x as long as it has a wider range cassette
The number of gears is irrelevant. It's the ratio from low to high gear that's important. The 1x system is better if you have a wide enough ratio cassette or freewheel. Without the wide ratio in the back the 1x will lack either top end speed or climbing ability.
too much math.
There is also the spacing between gears and how even that is. On a 1x you still have the benefit of linear ratios, so no need to upshift in front and downshift 3 gears in the back for the next ratio
I've got a 1986 Diamaond Back Arrival mtb with a 3 x 5 and its my do it all bike for road and hilly terrain. I want to upgrade the drivetrain as well as shifters. Ive had it since new but i just want to update it and keep on pedaling. What should I do ? Stick with quality 3x or change to quality 2x ? 1x isnt an option for my use as I have that on my enduro bike.
The main advantage of a 1x in my opinion is reduced noise. No sound of the chain beating around in the front derailleur. Talking about mountain bikes here. Only the sound of the tires grabbing traction. I've converted a lower end hardtail that came with 3 front chainrings to a 1x and it made me want to grab that bike instead of my full suspension. Made that hardtail feel like a new bike.
With new drivetrains like sram nx and shimano deore there's no reason to BUILD a 3x7 anymore
my new bike is $2999.99 (2019 Devinci Troy NX build silver) comes with eagle and a rockshox revelation charger, rockshox deluxe shock, Sram guide brakes, and a dropper etc... But for a hardtail with no linkage no dropper low end cable brakes spring fork etc they should be able to make a 1x8 or 1x9 on the entry level bikes and for the 400 to 500 dollar bikes 1x11 NX horizon If these companies would take a note from the Nishiki entry level hardtail for 500 there would be alot of happy customers out here the first time you jump on of these baggy chain 3x drivetrains with no clutch you'll know why we go 1x with narrow wide it's because we hate stopping on the trail to put chains back on come on bike industry catch up
Deore isn't new....
3x7 is the very cheapest option. Deore is not competing with that.
The choice is not 3x7 vs Deore it's 3x7 vs 1x7
@@thelawnet shimano isn't the only drivetrain that they make in 1x there is sram, shimano, box, e-thirteen, sunrace tons of companies out here making good cassettes and mixing and matching could save money too there are ways and cheaper options I had a 10speed 11-42 that was super competitively priced and 1x specific
Great vid
I started riding MTB 5 months ago after not riding a bike for 35 years. Needless to say I had a lot to learn. I bought an older used beginner mountain bike (Marin Bolinas Ridge 29er) with 27 speeds, 3X9. The trails I ride are mountain trails and a few fire roads. There's lots of climbing involved and I just don't have the strength to power up a hill on anything harder than the easiest gears, smallest up front and largest in back. After a month of riding I found I only really used the smallest front chain ring and the largest 4 or 5 rings in the back. The bike starts to become a bit unstable when going over 20 mph so using the front larger 2 chain rings for going faster was a waste for me. So I removed the larger two chain rings up front and the front derailleur/shifter and couldn't be happier. Now I only have to learn how to shift the rear derailleur instead of trying to remember which front chain ring I'm in and which rear ring I'm suppose to use, etc. I'm a complete beginner so my time is better spent learning to stay upright than thinking about gearing combinations on the fly. The 1X9 for me is a great compromise. If I rode the bike more on the street and wanted to go over 20 mph more often then I would put the other chain rings back on. With the 1X I know the shifting isn't as smooth going across the gears using only the 22 tooth front chain ring because of the chain line and cheap derailleur but I can live with it for now. I plan to upgrade to a proper mountain bike in a year, so I don't mind the draw backs of the 1X9. This is just my experience as a beginner. Your mileage may vary. I've been riding with the 1X9 for 4 months now and still do not want to put the other chain rings back on since I would never use them on the trails that I ride.
After riding probably a dozen different bikes in the last couple years a 1x with a clutched rear derailleur seems to be the best all around riding experience - on road, gravel, curb hopping, light off road. It seems to be about $300 minimum to convert any bike to that sort of setup, so there is definitely a price barrier to overcome. I have found typical budget 2x and 3x setups, wither it is Shimano flat face, Tourney, Acera, Deore, Claris to be much more livable once the all too common grip shifters or single step flat bar integrated brake/shifters are swapped out for a cheap pair of friction thumb shifters. It may be old tech and require a bit more attention, but it allows for more comfortable grips, better brake levers, and allows fast multiple gear jumps.
I have been looking at doing a 3x to 1x conversion for my MTB. Really looking at a 1x11 setup. Which gear would be best 11-46T or 11-50T? No commuting just mainly trails.
The bike I currently have is a POS Pacific with a 3X5 and the front derailer doesn't work. it is probably a good thing because I don't really know how shifting the front really works. I use it mostly for commuting but would like the option of going off road, nothing crazy though.
I am going to look into getting a bike from a local charity that sells used bikes or repairs bikes at low cost for low-income people. I am hoping I can find 1 that will be an upgrade from what I have. if I get a 3X I will convert it to a 1X11 if possible.
I have really been enjoying all your videos, thanks.
There are pros and cons to both. It all depends on riding style, preference, experience, and the money you want to spend. Less isn't always more depending on what and where you ride. 3x setups can go just about anywhere and do just about anything a 1x does. Yes, 1x setups are less complicated, less maintenance, less wear and tear, less noise and less weight. But, converting to a 1x involves, in most cases, a good bit of money when you're having to change the crank set, the cassette, rear deraileur, the chain....AND paying the bike shop to do the work and set it up for you if you dont know how to do it. That adds up.
I agree that most bikes need to come stock with, at least, 2x10, if not 1x11. This would increase the likelihood of NOT having to spend a lot of money to change out anything to your own preferences. Bolted 2x and 1x crank sets... 11speed cassettes.... You have hardly any money to spend to convert, if you would need to at all, because the simplicity, gear ranges, and weight savings are built in, already.
Hi, I want to know if the speed of a bike reduces if you choose a 2x drivetrain with 8 speed cassette ( Shimano Altus) in the back over a 3x drivetrain with 7 speed cassette in the back (Shimano Tourney). I am looking to purchase either the Trek Marlin 6 or Trek Marlin 5 to ride on uneven hard roads or cross country. Please suggest your input at the earliest!