If you seen need more info and want to see a real pro check out www.youtube.com/@carthageclassiccars on youtube. He's a real pro Richard is the best of the best.
Max, you are doing an excellent job. Most people wouldn’t even think about doing what you are doing. You have came a long way since you started this project. You are no different than a lot of us that had very little knowledge of what we were doing. Just remember, most people Are happy to tell you what you didn’t do exactly right. And probably haven’t done it themselves. Keep on going on your project and I will keep on with my 69.
Thanks for the kind words yeah I still have a long way to go but that was kind of the idea with the videos. If you watch the floor pan video its painful to see the terrible welding. But hey live and learn right? Keep me updated on your 69 brother we will all get our cars done! Best of luck thanks again
Thank you Krishna lots of work but it is coming along for sure. At least we know the condition it's in if we tackle every part of the car ourselves. Yes it would be easier and even cheaper to buy a complete finished car at this point but you just don't know what you are getting these days. I've seen people bring nice cars to shops for minor repairs and seen them ripped apart into a million pieces like mine
Awesome man really happy for you its pretty much the same thing just differnt piece. How they are built is the same. Let us know how it goes we got videos on every subject for this car coming out (over time)
Best way to learn is while you are doing the job. I am sure next car you restore so much will be changed in the process. I agree with one of the comments below you really need to invest in a small gas 75/25 bottle for your MIG and throw that flux core wire in the garbage. It has no place in the restoration world. Also again I second the comment, maybe watch Bad Chad for the laughs on how wrong he is, but not at all if you want to actually learn something about the automotive world. I think at this point he goes out of his way to do everything as wrong as possible to get the views. Thank you very much for the shoutout at the end of the video. It is really cool to see this car come back to life and I appreciate your honesty in learning the process.
Oh man 100% the best way I can put it is "I'm doing everything wrong so others can learn how to do it right". And yes I do plan to do another one one day just to do it the way I should have ( gas welder, dimming mask, sandblast whole thing, removal full floors and trunk, full quarters no patches) etc. the list is endless. So yes gas is going to be a must for sure just wanted to prove the flxucore is possible especially since there are a lot of people doing it this way. Basically doing the best I can with a crappy method. It's funny to finish this video I had to finisher he firewall, cowl, interior and trunk videos so you will see me struggling until November as I've made enough videos until the end of the year. Basically the welding on the car is pretty much done. That note about Chad I guess I just didn't watcj enough if his stuff as I've only watched a few vids I didn't realize he was trash. Good to know. I didn't find his 4s technique worked very well as it did warp more than the other way I did it (tack welds every 6 inches and hit with air). But hey to each their own I guess. No problem for the shoutout thanks for your help again was able to do this and it was not an easy job. Super happy with the result thanks to people like you. I will never try to be "the expert" as I am not one so you more than anyone will see a lot of mistakes and stupid errors
@@SubdivisionAutoyou are always going to get shrinkage with a welder. Just is what it is BUT if you truly want to learn watch Carthage Classic cars AND Sylvester’s Customs and Fritz.
Hi max good on you for doing this yourself i watched lots of videos on how to do this to my 71 nova i finally decided to seam seal mine using a flange tool im very happy with the results I'll keep watching
Thanks Kevin. Yeah this job took a while and took quitea but if tools and materials but happy with it. I am however using epoxy 3m seam sealer everywhere else. Only using the one part seam sealer for low water areas. Floor pans getting more heavy duty stuff. Good on yaan get er done let us know how it goes
You can’t get away from warpage when welding. Just hammer and dolly your weld seam to stretch it back out and kitty hair your weld seams and body filler over that. Strip car and epoxy before body filler stage. And don’t listen to Bad Chad. Sylvester Customs is a good channel as well. I watch Carthage as well and bought a sweatshirt from him. You might want to upgrade to a gas mig setup and you will be so glad you did. Shielding that weld will make it so much better. You are doing great. Keep up the good work and way to get after it and just try. That’s what us men do.
Thank you for the advice NB its funny filming that I thought if done right there will be no warpage... but im learning that not possible as you say. Hammer and dolly it is all good. Glad to hear you support Rick's channel he's a great dude I talk to him regularity he helps me a lot. YEah upgrading the gas for sure at some point. Yeah man gotta just do it and learn. Spent 3 weeks sanding the bottom of this darn thing lol hoping to have it in epoxy before winter...
@@SubdivisionAuto Right on. I’m restoring a square body Chevy right now. I’m in the bodywork stage atm. Full frame off resto and this is my first build as well. Good luck on your build.
@@NDB390 Oh awesome dude good for you let's save some of these old beauties because nobody will! Good luck on your project make sure to send us some before and afters once your done would be cool to see.
Before I had a garage, i used flux to all the same repairs you done on yours as I done on mine. When I started using gas, i really wished I would have started using it sooner.
Thanks Ross. I know I can squeeze several videos out of this and stretch it but I really wanted to keep as as condensed and information loaded as possible. I think it was worth the 6 months it took to film. Still could improve a lot though working on it! Thanks as always man you'll like the next one it's kind of a cluster#$_&
@@Eldude350 yeah the quarters are pretty huge. Which is why it's good to do full quarters less bodywork. I think you've owned one of every nice car ever built Gerry 😁
Right from the beginning I was thinking, 'He must have a bazillion tools for this job.' Then you started talking about all the tools. My goodness! I was especially impressed with the Reach Pro 6000. 🤣🤣 Where'd you get that? Amazon? 🤣🤣 I had no idea this was going to be such a massive job. Good thing Bobby is there to help! 😁 Also, leaving off the quarter panel to work on the trunk was a great idea!! Sorry I haven't been around much. I'll try to do better. Thank you for the video, TrooperMax!! 🚘👍❤
Lol! My tools are pretty crude literally all amazon cheapo tools but hey they get the job done for a novice like myself ! Yeah I never imaged to do all this all I planned on was fixing the rust above the wheels and bam look what happened. Next thing you know there is no roof or any quarter panels. Crazy life I live. Thanks for watching doing apologize it's nice to see you drop in! You may like the previous video too it was a drag racing video called Wayne Young Memorial. I got to try drag racing was really fun. And a great community of people
@@SubdivisionAuto No Max. All of your tools looked good to me...then, at 34:34 you pulled out the folded piece of cardboard and called it the Reach Pro 6000. I laughed out loud!! I figured the piece of cardboard came from an Amazon box. That was too funny! This was another really good video!!
Try to punch all your holes on your flanges before you spray the welding primer so when you do new spot welds there will be enough zinc to fill in the weld spot. And “Mastercoat” is proven to be a way better product for frame coating and inner panel coating etc. good work sir. 💯
Good to know thanks for the tips. Have not heard of "Mastercoat" but will look into it since I still have a lot to frame coat. Thanks man for the comments
Welding it in or on is the easy part its grinding all the welds down thats the hard part cus u have to only grind on the welds and not let the disc touch the panel or outside the panel cus then ur taking material off or away from the car or panel, its the difference between useing alot of filler or using a skim coat of filler at the finish stage or if ur expert level u dont need to use filler at all. A trick i use is to use a good tape on both sides of the weld line and try not to hit the tape when u grind the weld line down.🇺🇲
52:02 People call it warpage but technically it's shrinkage. The metal expands when heated to high temp and when it cools it shrinks. You can minimize the shrinking by keeping the heat as low as possible but no matter what you do it will shrink (aka warp). When it shrinks the metal pulls in on itself and actually gets thicker where the weld is and that causes the "warping." To remove the warpage the metal must be stretched and thinned back out. The reason a lot of high end shops prefer tig welding is the welds are softer and easier to stretch with a hammer and dolly. Mig welds are harder and prone to cracking when trying to stretch them back out. Lots and lots of cars have been done with mig and as long as you keep the warpage minimal and the body filler thin it won't be a problem.
That's a really great explanation I didn't know that but it makes sense. For some reason I was under the impression warpage is avoidable but like you said it doesn't make sense but when heated it will expand no matter what and then cool. That said it honestly is so minimal I didn't notice until I watched the time lapse then really looked close. Even then it's so minimal just minor filler will smooth it out. So I am not too worried. Thanks for this this helps a lot
@@SubdivisionAuto There are videos, books, and google searches that will explain it better than I did as well as how to correct it if you want to learn more. Since most of us are not restoring million dollar cars, or wanting to take hours upon hours practicing and developing perfect metal finishing skills, mig welding with thin skim coat of filler is fine. Nice job on your project so far. Also it's pretty cool your kid is so interested in helping.
@@TheInsaneShecklador yeah it's not gonna be perfect but it'll hold together for sure. I'll get some local body work experts to help me out when it comes time to tackle that Lotta talented guys in town willing to teach a fella. Thanks for the kind words yea my little dudes are both car obsessed and the older one only likes old cars so I will keep feeding that passion
Just wondering, as far as the jerky welder wire feed. Are you using the proper drive wire wheel for your wire size? Common mistake that many people make. IE… I example.023 wire/ .023 wheel .035 wire / .035 wheel. Also proper wheel for the flux core wire?
Yeah you are right it came with a few wheels i do have the right one. The one thing I did notice though is if you dont take the tip off and clean it from time to time it starts to get jerky. Its pretty decent id say 90-95% of the time but far from perfect. For an amazon welder it does decent but still could be better! Thanks for thip!
Buy a Eastwood perfect panel tool,, it chrimps a v- channel valley for weld too lay in on butt edge,, best tool l ever bought for butt welds,, you grind very little of welds off and much less burn thrus ,, and gives you a much stronger joint
One big change you need to make for the better is a gas welder, 75- 25 argon c02. You won’t believe how gd your welds will be. Make the investment asap. I did the same when I started and regretted fighting a cheap welder for a long time. Man was I stupid. What a waste. Coming along nicely. Hard work but your learning. Keep it up.
Yeah for sure. It's funny finishing This video I also did 5 other videos so you'll see me wrestling with this until the end of the year but yeah next time I'd used the gas for sure. Same with sandblasting you'll see me struggle hand sanding this entire car which is time consuming and actually more expensive than sandblasting... But I did it to make the videos to help out people who choose not to. So all this pain I've endured and will contiue to endure only so I can do it right with the next car. Yes there will be another car and I'm doing it all different... Thanks for the notes you are dead on!
Actually, you will love it if you ues 75-25 Argon gas it wields dirty metal better than hardware. If you want a premium weld that looks like a pro did it do exactly this. You also will like a 75-25 argon mix with hardware. Argon is not cheap though But with this you will love the results. Well worth the investment if you intend to get serious with welds that need to hold up. Flux core welding is completely different when you use argon 75-25 It's also the easiest to control vertical and upside down welds.
Enjoying your Nova restoration project very much. It looks like you are really taking pains to make top notch restore. I like your Nova Scotia flag too.Will we see your restored Nova cruising in NS in future? I'm also a Nova owner in NS,
Even though im in Ontario my heart has been in Nova scotia since I first visited in 2010. Since then I have done quite a trips there. Funny you mention coming to NS when its done, I found the car in New Brunswick (episode 6) and took my family there to retrieve it. My plan is to finish the car, drive to to NB to give the old owner a drive, and take it all the way around the Cabot trail (last I did that was in 2014). I plan to go all around Nova Scotia as well hopefully if things go well! What engine you got in yours and year? Glad you are enjoying the videos lots to come.
@@SubdivisionAuto I have a 71 SS 4 spd and a 70 250 6 cylinder powerglide both in stages of "apart" and currently being worked on .Looking forward to watching your project as it comes along .
@@FlakMonky20k oh yeah I believe it man I saw 60 cars before I chose this one. Most of them are just done all the way back. Big job but I bet your glad you did it
@@SubdivisionAuto It was money and time well spent. The previous owner had left booger welds so that was a part of the reason why we replaced everything back there. We got new door skins, front right fender, both front inner fenders and a new hood.
@@FlakMonky20k honestly whatever comes up that makes sense. But an LS for sure I was hoping for an aluminum ls3 block but we shall see. My buddy finished getting his going who lives next door so we plan to do the same here. Still a very long time before that but I'm looking in the spring just so I can get the 6 speed and do all the floor cutting
@@Mr1technician oh nothing negative about your comment at all my friend ! You are correct. The welder I'm using will only work one way if you have the gas or the other way without it won't let you have it set incorrectly. I appreciate you taking the time to comment thank you !
Looks awesome my young friend! Kyle Carter at Carter restoration is an excellent body man ,if you haven't seen him work you should do yourself a favor and check him out!
Oh yeah Steve they came out pretty good... happy with them for a first timer. Thanks again next few jobs are big ones too those videos are now out as well..
There is nothing stupid about protecting yourself. As a fabricator myself I learned quickly from my elders who's health are in danger do to not protecting their lungs, eyes, skin (flash burns), hearing and knees. Yes knees. Wear knee pads and get yourself a good quality mobile stool. Just my 2 cents but trust me, 20 years from now you will see the benefit compared to those who didn't consider all of the available protection. Your project is looking good and for not ever attempting this you are heading in a positive direction with it.
Thanks for this insightful comment. I would have to agree with you sometimes it may seem like overkill but over time all the wear and tear adds up. Since the incident I have not had anything happen and made good progress so I am not against some more PPE. I always see guys like badchad without any safety gear but it takes one moment to lose it all. THanks again man
Glad I found your channel. Excellent content, but please don't ever copy bad Chad EVER. With that hope to see all your video's until the day that car comes to life.
@@markh2128 hah thanks for the kind words I can't say I am going to try to copy him just tried that one technique and it didn't work for me. Don't worry lots of videos to come and the ideas I will be using are a little unique just because all the problems I run into... Have not seen videos for all the stuff I'm running into so have to be creative. New vid this Friday if your digging the series thank you for the support
I do the filming and editing myself. Actually been my career for the past 15 years so kind of have an advantage when it comes to making these videos. But it takes forever this video took 6 months to film/edit total. Mind you I did 5 other videos at the same time (which you will see coming up every 4 weeks) but yeah takes some time. Thanks for the kind words always looking to improve and get better
@@randywiddis oh yeah I'd believe it you need some pretty beefy software these days for videos. Especially since the video files are highly compressed in H264 format. Takes a lot for computers to process all that. What are you editing
Lol I am learning a lot more about bad Chad just from the comments. Glad I made that comparison. Guess if your not a pro you just don't know but you seem to be like everyone else this fast saying the same thing. So guess Chad isn't as great as he says he is
@@SubdivisionAutoDo not take others opinions of Bad Chad as gospel. Watch his work and make up your own mind. The man has done a lot of custom work. His video on the 4spot method is done with mig. You can't really compare smoker wire to mig. They are two different processes. Inner shield IMHO puts in more heat than mig. I have a mig welder and a innershield welder side by side. I use them both. I'm going to watch your Floor Pan video next.
@@vicferrari9380 interesting I have not heard of people using flux core wire ans shielding gas just one or the other. Any reason you still use flux core? I personally don't mind it at all at this point I've done so much welding with it
Bro I see the Canadian flag so I assume you are Canadian… go to Canadian Tire and get Tremclad semi gloss black… same thing as Eastwood chassis black’s shine… but cheaper and tuffer
Honestly I've sprayed tremclad Ona. Rusty wheel barrow years ago with zero prep and I swear it outlasted the chassis black. The Eastwood did not impress. It did at first but any sort of impact or heat variation and the stuff peels. Good tip
I say anybody that calls a hard working car guy thats learning a" embarrassment " is the actual embarrassment to the real car guy world,and probably never restored a car
It's kinda astonishing it can be silvery untreated metal inside hidden compartment on any vehicle from -72... On most European cars, the bodies were dipped in primer, so you usually did get rust around e.g. the roof structure. The reason American cars lasted as long as they did, was that American steel were better than the European (with exception for Mercedes). I used to ask why (as comment on TH-cam videos), and i got a detailed (& long) reply, which i saved to study later. But TH-cam changed their comment search & i could not find it... Now they have made it much more advanced, you can make Excel reports on everything.... Still can't find it, sigh.... Anyway, there were a quality difference, different processes/alloys, GM/Chrysler did rely on steel quality, rather than treatments. Ford (e.g. Mustangs) were different, they did/do have treatments on hidden parts.. They look different... E.g. Ford Australia were really bad, nothing in hidden compartments, they kept the steel rolls out in the rain, etc, so those Falcon XB GTs are often horrendous restoration projects. So they do 1 car, get tired & change their hobby to something else.. There were a reason Max went mad...
@@AndreasAndersson-ve4jx that's really cool I didn't know that. I knew that some cars were already rusting as they were finished due to poor conditions and lack of anti rust treatments but I didn't know about the quality of the steel. Despite that half a century goes by and anything will show some wear rust etc. least we have the technology to seal the cars so they never rust again now. You'll see this Friday one hell of a battle with the firewall. Wasn't terrible but man is it a lot of exhausting work. Thanks for the comment hope you stick around
Respect to effort but a full quarter panel would in my opinion been a much better option. Only would have had plastic filler in the sail panel .now the whole panel is full of plastic filler .great effort otherwise!
Yeah you are 100% the sail idea was stupid I did but that's due to lack of experience which is why I wanted to share this. Love and learn k suppose thanks for the tips you are 100%
Those small patch panels are junk. I bought some for my niva years ago. There was no way the lower body lines would line up so I had to cut relief cuts down the pannel to make it do a happy face so both body lines would line up.
@@MrYz250fman yeah that's the problem I was having too just putting them on it wasent lining up at all. Full quarters for sure the way to go. So not even the way I did it but rather doing everything including the jams I'd say is the way to go
NEVER EVER EEEEEEVER do aaaanything BAD CHAD suggests, the guy is an embarrassment. looks like your weld has too much heat in it , set it right and a very flat shiny spotweld will be the result, also when doing a patch or an almost full panel replacement , your style I would not favour, rather a complete panel from jam to jam is best , BUT if you must do it your way, cut both the car and the replacement panel leaving half an inch extra metal where the cuts are , lay the panel in place and scribe the exact shape before you cut so there is no guessing and no gap to fill so everything can be a neat buttweld, other than that you're doing great
I would have to agree plus that Bad Chad is very Bad on safety, who show is sometimes enjoyable but he can be a Bad influence on DIY watchers, stick with Fritz Fab. The cut and butt guy.
No kidding eh I can't say I know much about this kind of stuff but always through Chad was one of the guys that was good. But I honestly don't know about much about him or have watched his show so I just don't know. So this comment is a bit of a surprise to me but I am grateful for it because I just didn't know. Yeah I did do it that way but I did it 5 weeks before I put it on but for some reason had a bit of a gap. Honestly I think it's just a lack of experience I did the other side (which I didn't film) and has no gap at all... Kinda wish I filmed that instead. Not sure if I said it in the video but like you should I should have done the whole thing... Door jam included. Had I known I would have to repace the sail too I would have bought a full one. Just a lack of experience and planning on my end hopefully others don't make the same mistake ! Thanks for the tips your are dead on
@@gregorypeterson9 fritz is amazing he does great work. I agree with Chad's lack of safety. Being a victim of my own stupidity I now work smarter than before.
It's called the Theory of welding. Welding cold is an absolute failure on any one Trying to be too analytical about heat settings. I've never gone wrong welding, hot. I've consistently failed trying to be analytical about my heat settings. A nice red hot 1inch and a half travel is a good thing to see. But even that is not an accurate Visual on your weld heat nether is weld spatter. If you're melting through. Actually, that's a good sign for whether or not it's going to (Hold up). That's what you call a 100% penetration.. Welding too hot Is a theory a weld is always Weaker than a solid piece of steel This is why there's physics on how you lay down your weld.. The right and wrong ways of transferring stress. It's never perfect. I've struggled with this very analytical argument, and guess what? It's a theory. It's not true Considering many factors. If you're new to welding, you should be wielding hot to the point that you're nearly melting through. You can add different chemistry to strengthen your welds. This tip is very natural for steel Welding. When the overall core temperature of the steel is Way over 300% You run into problems with being too hot. When the overall core temperature is no over this point, you're perfect. When the steel starts to turn gold to blue, you're getting too hot. Do not cool your welds. Let them cool slowly. I'v welded hundreds of thousands of hours, let me tell story's of all my failures. I know what works. Don't be so analytical about theories Max, you're doing fine.
@@Gibbswelding its body work champ , completely different scenario that obviously you have no experience in, Id work all day on sites with professional welders that get payed for their skill, these guys wouldn't and didn't know shit about how to weld body panels because a mine isn't a panel shop
Oh the outer side yeah inner side I'm not too worried. Trick I've been using (not sure if I added it to this video) is using laquer thinner. If it comes off then it's crap e coat if it doesn't I keep it on. But like I said only for interior panels exterior I'll ripp it all down and epoxy the whole sucker one shot. But yes you are right
@@travlite8496 awesomean yeah for sure drop any suggestions you have always looking to learn! Thanks for watching and the kind words I still got a long way to go lots of mistakes and poor work still
@@SubdivisionAuto Carthage knows a lot he's a good channel to get and learn this trade from he does it correctly I wouldn't do anything Bad Chad does he's not doing things like a restoration should be done he's good at chopping cars that's about it to be honest
@@travlite8496 yeah honestly I did t watch enough of his stuff to know or have the experience to recognize he's not doing things correctly. But after all the comments I can say I am learning from you guys. Good stuff to know. Yeah Richard is amazing he does good work.
Not even close to the right way to put on a quarter panel. welding it on where you cut it it;s going to warp like hell. LOL You should have drilled out all the spot welds and used all the metal as it makes it so much easier and saves a ton of body work.
You are a fool , those panels are patch panels and best to remove only what needs removing …. know it alls like u miss tge point !! This guy is a beginner and did a great job !! Period
You are not wrong. Honestly I learned a lot from this was originally going to do a patch and learned the way I did It was better... But not best. If I had to do it again I would do it the way you say it's just way better.. but most people will do it the way I did so hopefully this will help some folks out. Always more than one way to do it but I will have way more bodywork because of the way I did it. Thanks for your suggestion.
Max, you are doing an excellent job. Most people wouldn’t even think about doing what you are doing. You have came a long way since you started this project. You are no different than a lot of us that had very little knowledge of what we were doing. Just remember, most people Are happy to tell you what you didn’t do exactly right. And probably haven’t done it themselves. Keep on going on your project and I will keep on with my 69.
If you seen need more info and want to see a real pro check out www.youtube.com/@carthageclassiccars on youtube. He's a real pro Richard is the best of the best.
Max, you are doing an excellent job. Most people wouldn’t even think about doing what you are doing. You have came a long way since you started this project. You are no different than a lot of us that had very little knowledge of what we were doing. Just remember, most people Are happy to tell you what you didn’t do exactly right. And probably haven’t done it themselves. Keep on going on your project and I will keep on with my 69.
Thanks for the kind words yeah I still have a long way to go but that was kind of the idea with the videos. If you watch the floor pan video its painful to see the terrible welding. But hey live and learn right? Keep me updated on your 69 brother we will all get our cars done! Best of luck thanks again
Your determination is really inspiring Max…. Keep up the great work !
Thanks Rob gotta keep grinding it out so I can join the fun with you guys!
Great work on the quarter panel and inside areas underneath. The Nova is coming along really well!
Thank you Krishna lots of work but it is coming along for sure. At least we know the condition it's in if we tackle every part of the car ourselves. Yes it would be easier and even cheaper to buy a complete finished car at this point but you just don't know what you are getting these days. I've seen people bring nice cars to shops for minor repairs and seen them ripped apart into a million pieces like mine
Just got a project 74 nova hatchback, been working on it and this vid will help me for sure on my nova
Awesome man really happy for you its pretty much the same thing just differnt piece. How they are built is the same. Let us know how it goes we got videos on every subject for this car coming out (over time)
47:55 - that extra stick out is why flux core is great for sheetmetal …. It takes some heat out
It worked out okay I'm not mad about the result
Best way to learn is while you are doing the job. I am sure next car you restore so much will be changed in the process. I agree with one of the comments below you really need to invest in a small gas 75/25 bottle for your MIG and throw that flux core wire in the garbage. It has no place in the restoration world. Also again I second the comment, maybe watch Bad Chad for the laughs on how wrong he is, but not at all if you want to actually learn something about the automotive world. I think at this point he goes out of his way to do everything as wrong as possible to get the views. Thank you very much for the shoutout at the end of the video. It is really cool to see this car come back to life and I appreciate your honesty in learning the process.
Oh man 100% the best way I can put it is "I'm doing everything wrong so others can learn how to do it right". And yes I do plan to do another one one day just to do it the way I should have ( gas welder, dimming mask, sandblast whole thing, removal full floors and trunk, full quarters no patches) etc. the list is endless. So yes gas is going to be a must for sure just wanted to prove the flxucore is possible especially since there are a lot of people doing it this way. Basically doing the best I can with a crappy method. It's funny to finish this video I had to finisher he firewall, cowl, interior and trunk videos so you will see me struggling until November as I've made enough videos until the end of the year. Basically the welding on the car is pretty much done. That note about Chad I guess I just didn't watcj enough if his stuff as I've only watched a few vids I didn't realize he was trash. Good to know. I didn't find his 4s technique worked very well as it did warp more than the other way I did it (tack welds every 6 inches and hit with air). But hey to each their own I guess. No problem for the shoutout thanks for your help again was able to do this and it was not an easy job. Super happy with the result thanks to people like you. I will never try to be "the expert" as I am not one so you more than anyone will see a lot of mistakes and stupid errors
@@SubdivisionAutoyou are always going to get shrinkage with a welder. Just is what it is BUT if you truly want to learn watch Carthage Classic cars AND Sylvester’s Customs and Fritz.
Great video Max! Cheers Buddy!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks buddy! Seen ya ripping your new house apart congrats and have fun!
Hi max good on you for doing this yourself i watched lots of videos on how to do this to my 71 nova i finally decided to seam seal mine using a flange tool im very happy with the results I'll keep watching
Thanks Kevin. Yeah this job took a while and took quitea but if tools and materials but happy with it. I am however using epoxy 3m seam sealer everywhere else. Only using the one part seam sealer for low water areas. Floor pans getting more heavy duty stuff. Good on yaan get er done let us know how it goes
You can’t get away from warpage when welding. Just hammer and dolly your weld seam to stretch it back out and kitty hair your weld seams and body filler over that. Strip car and epoxy before body filler stage. And don’t listen to Bad Chad. Sylvester Customs is a good channel as well. I watch Carthage as well and bought a sweatshirt from him. You might want to upgrade to a gas mig setup and you will be so glad you did. Shielding that weld will make it so much better. You are doing great. Keep up the good work and way to get after it and just try. That’s what us men do.
Thank you for the advice NB its funny filming that I thought if done right there will be no warpage... but im learning that not possible as you say. Hammer and dolly it is all good. Glad to hear you support Rick's channel he's a great dude I talk to him regularity he helps me a lot. YEah upgrading the gas for sure at some point. Yeah man gotta just do it and learn. Spent 3 weeks sanding the bottom of this darn thing lol hoping to have it in epoxy before winter...
@@SubdivisionAuto Right on. I’m restoring a square body Chevy right now. I’m in the bodywork stage atm. Full frame off resto and this is my first build as well. Good luck on your build.
@@NDB390 Oh awesome dude good for you let's save some of these old beauties because nobody will! Good luck on your project make sure to send us some before and afters once your done would be cool to see.
Before I had a garage, i used flux to all the same repairs you done on yours as I done on mine. When I started using gas, i really wished I would have started using it sooner.
Another Amazing Video Max...Sooo soo much work but all amazing...It`s nice to see the transformation can`t wait for the next one.....
Thanks Ross. I know I can squeeze several videos out of this and stretch it but I really wanted to keep as as condensed and information loaded as possible. I think it was worth the 6 months it took to film. Still could improve a lot though working on it! Thanks as always man you'll like the next one it's kind of a cluster#$_&
@@SubdivisionAuto Lol...should be a good one.....
Keep doing what you’re doing. I’m inspired to do this to my Buick
Awesome man glad to hear the video can help out. Let us know how it goes best of luck get er done
Nice job, I just noticed something......these car's quarters cover almost 1/2 of the car's length, just like a 57 chevy I once had! Keep the faith!
@@Eldude350 yeah the quarters are pretty huge. Which is why it's good to do full quarters less bodywork. I think you've owned one of every nice car ever built Gerry 😁
Autoshade for the win! Looking good!
Yeah buddy big improvement made the job much easier. probably would have done things much faster had I had this before hand
Right from the beginning I was thinking, 'He must have a bazillion tools for this job.' Then you started talking about all the tools. My goodness! I was especially impressed with the Reach Pro 6000. 🤣🤣 Where'd you get that? Amazon? 🤣🤣
I had no idea this was going to be such a massive job. Good thing Bobby is there to help! 😁 Also, leaving off the quarter panel to work on the trunk was a great idea!! Sorry I haven't been around much. I'll try to do better. Thank you for the video, TrooperMax!! 🚘👍❤
Lol! My tools are pretty crude literally all amazon cheapo tools but hey they get the job done for a novice like myself ! Yeah I never imaged to do all this all I planned on was fixing the rust above the wheels and bam look what happened. Next thing you know there is no roof or any quarter panels. Crazy life I live. Thanks for watching doing apologize it's nice to see you drop in! You may like the previous video too it was a drag racing video called Wayne Young Memorial. I got to try drag racing was really fun. And a great community of people
@@SubdivisionAuto No Max. All of your tools looked good to me...then, at 34:34 you pulled out the folded piece of cardboard and called it the Reach Pro 6000. I laughed out loud!! I figured the piece of cardboard came from an Amazon box. That was too funny! This was another really good video!!
@@SandiRose2008 haha yeah I like to be silly 😜 glad you enjoyed it. Next couple ones had some stuff go wrong so ime lighting up more
I TOTALLY RECOMMEND ''CSD DISCS '' ....the perfekt discs for rust an paint without grinding into the metal
Try to punch all your holes on your flanges before you spray the welding primer so when you do new spot welds there will be enough zinc to fill in the weld spot. And “Mastercoat” is proven to be a way better product for frame coating and inner panel coating etc. good work sir. 💯
Good to know thanks for the tips. Have not heard of "Mastercoat" but will look into it since I still have a lot to frame coat. Thanks man for the comments
Welding it in or on is the easy part its grinding all the welds down thats the hard part cus u have to only grind on the welds and not let the disc touch the panel or outside the panel cus then ur taking material off or away from the car or panel, its the difference between useing alot of filler or using a skim coat of filler at the finish stage or if ur expert level u dont need to use filler at all. A trick i use is to use a good tape on both sides of the weld line and try not to hit the tape when u grind the weld line down.🇺🇲
Now that is a cool tip thank you!
Yes sir. Don't grind what you don't want removed. Your only putting weld on. Should only be taking weld back off.
52:02 People call it warpage but technically it's shrinkage. The metal expands when heated to high temp and when it cools it shrinks. You can minimize the shrinking by keeping the heat as low as possible but no matter what you do it will shrink (aka warp). When it shrinks the metal pulls in on itself and actually gets thicker where the weld is and that causes the "warping." To remove the warpage the metal must be stretched and thinned back out. The reason a lot of high end shops prefer tig welding is the welds are softer and easier to stretch with a hammer and dolly. Mig welds are harder and prone to cracking when trying to stretch them back out.
Lots and lots of cars have been done with mig and as long as you keep the warpage minimal and the body filler thin it won't be a problem.
That's a really great explanation I didn't know that but it makes sense. For some reason I was under the impression warpage is avoidable but like you said it doesn't make sense but when heated it will expand no matter what and then cool. That said it honestly is so minimal I didn't notice until I watched the time lapse then really looked close. Even then it's so minimal just minor filler will smooth it out. So I am not too worried. Thanks for this this helps a lot
@@SubdivisionAuto There are videos, books, and google searches that will explain it better than I did as well as how to correct it if you want to learn more.
Since most of us are not restoring million dollar cars, or wanting to take hours upon hours practicing and developing perfect metal finishing skills, mig welding with thin skim coat of filler is fine.
Nice job on your project so far. Also it's pretty cool your kid is so interested in helping.
@@TheInsaneShecklador yeah it's not gonna be perfect but it'll hold together for sure. I'll get some local body work experts to help me out when it comes time to tackle that Lotta talented guys in town willing to teach a fella. Thanks for the kind words yea my little dudes are both car obsessed and the older one only likes old cars so I will keep feeding that passion
@@SubdivisionAuto 👍
Just wondering, as far as the jerky welder wire feed. Are you using the proper drive wire wheel for your wire size? Common mistake that many people make. IE… I example.023 wire/ .023 wheel .035 wire / .035 wheel. Also proper wheel for the flux core wire?
Yeah you are right it came with a few wheels i do have the right one. The one thing I did notice though is if you dont take the tip off and clean it from time to time it starts to get jerky. Its pretty decent id say 90-95% of the time but far from perfect. For an amazon welder it does decent but still could be better! Thanks for thip!
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for the support man welcome to the party pal! New vid on this series just came out today
Buy a Eastwood perfect panel tool,, it chrimps a v- channel valley for weld too lay in on butt edge,, best tool l ever bought for butt welds,, you grind very little of welds off and much less burn thrus ,, and gives you a much stronger joint
@@georgespangler1517 good call thanks
One big change you need to make for the better is a gas welder, 75- 25 argon c02. You won’t believe how gd your welds will be. Make the investment asap. I did the same when I started and regretted fighting a cheap welder for a long time. Man was I stupid. What a waste. Coming along nicely. Hard work but your learning. Keep it up.
I was thinking the same thing but he has a gas welder. He just need to buy the tank/gas setting up.
Yeah for sure. It's funny finishing This video I also did 5 other videos so you'll see me wrestling with this until the end of the year but yeah next time I'd used the gas for sure. Same with sandblasting you'll see me struggle hand sanding this entire car which is time consuming and actually more expensive than sandblasting... But I did it to make the videos to help out people who choose not to. So all this pain I've endured and will contiue to endure only so I can do it right with the next car. Yes there will be another car and I'm doing it all different... Thanks for the notes you are dead on!
@@jdubb200 100% flux core is not easy to use. Thanks for the tips and watching jdubbs
Actually, you will love it if you ues 75-25 Argon gas it wields dirty metal better than hardware.
If you want a premium weld that looks like a pro did it do exactly this.
You also will like a 75-25 argon mix with hardware. Argon is not cheap though
But with this you will love the results.
Well worth the investment if you intend to get serious with welds that need to hold up. Flux core welding is completely different when you use argon 75-25 It's also the easiest to control vertical and upside down welds.
I disagree … flux for auto sheet metal is fine…. It gets ground and bodyworked anyways … its not a welding beauty contest
Enjoying your Nova restoration project very much. It looks like you are really taking pains to make top notch restore. I like your Nova Scotia flag too.Will we see your restored Nova cruising in NS in future? I'm also a Nova owner in NS,
Even though im in Ontario my heart has been in Nova scotia since I first visited in 2010. Since then I have done quite a trips there. Funny you mention coming to NS when its done, I found the car in New Brunswick (episode 6) and took my family there to retrieve it. My plan is to finish the car, drive to to NB to give the old owner a drive, and take it all the way around the Cabot trail (last I did that was in 2014). I plan to go all around Nova Scotia as well hopefully if things go well! What engine you got in yours and year? Glad you are enjoying the videos lots to come.
@@SubdivisionAuto I have a 71 SS 4 spd and a 70 250 6 cylinder powerglide both in stages of "apart" and currently being worked on .Looking forward to watching your project as it comes along .
Kind of jealous what you had to deal with the rear of your car. My dad and I had to replace that WHOLE back section of our Nova.
@@FlakMonky20k oh yeah I believe it man I saw 60 cars before I chose this one. Most of them are just done all the way back. Big job but I bet your glad you did it
@@SubdivisionAuto It was money and time well spent. The previous owner had left booger welds so that was a part of the reason why we replaced everything back there. We got new door skins, front right fender, both front inner fenders and a new hood.
@@FlakMonky20k holy cow that's a whole new car. Congrats you are braver than me!
@@SubdivisionAuto You should be proud of the work you've put in so far. Have you decided on what motor you're going with?
@@FlakMonky20k honestly whatever comes up that makes sense. But an LS for sure I was hoping for an aluminum ls3 block but we shall see. My buddy finished getting his going who lives next door so we plan to do the same here. Still a very long time before that but I'm looking in the spring just so I can get the 6 speed and do all the floor cutting
Dang those sticker that no one will ever see!
Also, is the polarity set to negative? Most mig machines come defaulted to positive. Should be able to change that too .
There is only one way to do it without gas. It's setup for gassless right now if you use gas it's the other way around.
@@SubdivisionAuto sorry, didn’t mean anything negative with my comment. Just making a suggestion.
@@Mr1technician oh nothing negative about your comment at all my friend ! You are correct. The welder I'm using will only work one way if you have the gas or the other way without it won't let you have it set incorrectly. I appreciate you taking the time to comment thank you !
I'm doing the same on my 68 Nova
Awesome let us know how it goes. We are filming every single aspect of this build
If you're welding with gas, you need to hold the tip much closer. .25 to.375. On flux core, 625 is fine
Good to know Im just using flux core and usually I find myself around half inch to 3/4 inch. Thanks for the tip didnt know this will keep it in mind.
Looks awesome my young friend! Kyle Carter at Carter restoration is an excellent body man ,if you haven't seen him work you should do yourself a favor and check him out!
Thanks man appreciate it. I will check it out I'm very new to this always looking to learn more
The size is stamped on the wheel, most wheels have 2 sizes and can be flipped over to change the size.
You did it!
Oh yeah Steve they came out pretty good... happy with them for a first timer. Thanks again next few jobs are big ones too those videos are now out as well..
There is nothing stupid about protecting yourself. As a fabricator myself I learned quickly from my elders who's health are in danger do to not protecting their lungs, eyes, skin (flash burns), hearing and knees. Yes knees. Wear knee pads and get yourself a good quality mobile stool. Just my 2 cents but trust me, 20 years from now you will see the benefit compared to those who didn't consider all of the available protection.
Your project is looking good and for not ever attempting this you are heading in a positive direction with it.
Thanks for this insightful comment. I would have to agree with you sometimes it may seem like overkill but over time all the wear and tear adds up. Since the incident I have not had anything happen and made good progress so I am not against some more PPE. I always see guys like badchad without any safety gear but it takes one moment to lose it all. THanks again man
What the name of the TH-cam channel that answered your questions?
Cartage CLassic sorry i forgot to put the info on the screen just realized that
Glad I found your channel. Excellent content, but please don't ever copy bad Chad EVER. With that hope to see all your video's until the day that car comes to life.
@@markh2128 hah thanks for the kind words I can't say I am going to try to copy him just tried that one technique and it didn't work for me. Don't worry lots of videos to come and the ideas I will be using are a little unique just because all the problems I run into... Have not seen videos for all the stuff I'm running into so have to be creative. New vid this Friday if your digging the series thank you for the support
Who does your video editing? Great job!
I do the filming and editing myself. Actually been my career for the past 15 years so kind of have an advantage when it comes to making these videos. But it takes forever this video took 6 months to film/edit total. Mind you I did 5 other videos at the same time (which you will see coming up every 4 weeks) but yeah takes some time. Thanks for the kind words always looking to improve and get better
@SubdivisionAuto I just upgraded my software (Power Direct 365) and computer because I melted the processor.. lol. It's still a nightmare..
@@randywiddis oh yeah I'd believe it you need some pretty beefy software these days for videos. Especially since the video files are highly compressed in H264 format. Takes a lot for computers to process all that. What are you editing
@SubdivisionAuto I'm doing the same thing that you are. I'm redoing my 67 Chevelle.
@@randywiddis oh very cool I'll check it out
Bro. At least you are doing the work and don’t act like your a pro and try to teach people how to work (*cough* bad Chad)
Lol I am learning a lot more about bad Chad just from the comments. Glad I made that comparison. Guess if your not a pro you just don't know but you seem to be like everyone else this fast saying the same thing. So guess Chad isn't as great as he says he is
@@SubdivisionAutoDo not take others opinions of Bad Chad as gospel. Watch his work and make up your own mind. The man has done a lot of custom work. His video on the 4spot method is done with mig. You can't really compare smoker wire to mig. They are two different processes. Inner shield IMHO puts in more heat than mig. I have a mig welder and a innershield welder side by side. I use them both. I'm going to watch your Floor Pan video next.
@@vicferrari9380 interesting I have not heard of people using flux core wire ans shielding gas just one or the other. Any reason you still use flux core? I personally don't mind it at all at this point I've done so much welding with it
Bro I see the Canadian flag so I assume you are Canadian… go to Canadian Tire and get Tremclad semi gloss black… same thing as Eastwood chassis black’s shine… but cheaper and tuffer
Honestly I've sprayed tremclad Ona. Rusty wheel barrow years ago with zero prep and I swear it outlasted the chassis black. The Eastwood did not impress. It did at first but any sort of impact or heat variation and the stuff peels. Good tip
I say anybody that calls a hard working car guy thats learning a" embarrassment " is the actual embarrassment to the real car guy world,and probably never restored a car
Well said
Take a heat gun to that rubber coating and it literally wipes off with a putty knife
@@MrYz250fman damn no way wish I knew that before I did this. Thankfully I still have that problem inside the doors tio
It's kinda astonishing it can be silvery untreated metal inside hidden compartment on any vehicle from -72... On most European cars, the bodies were dipped in primer, so you usually did get rust around e.g. the roof structure.
The reason American cars lasted as long as they did, was that American steel were better than the European (with exception for Mercedes). I used to ask why (as comment on TH-cam videos), and i got a detailed (& long) reply, which i saved to study later. But TH-cam changed their comment search & i could not find it... Now they have made it much more advanced, you can make Excel reports on everything.... Still can't find it, sigh....
Anyway, there were a quality difference, different processes/alloys, GM/Chrysler did rely on steel quality, rather than treatments.
Ford (e.g. Mustangs) were different, they did/do have treatments on hidden parts.. They look different...
E.g. Ford Australia were really bad, nothing in hidden compartments, they kept the steel rolls out in the rain, etc, so those Falcon XB GTs are often horrendous restoration projects. So they do 1 car, get tired & change their hobby to something else.. There were a reason Max went mad...
@@AndreasAndersson-ve4jx that's really cool I didn't know that. I knew that some cars were already rusting as they were finished due to poor conditions and lack of anti rust treatments but I didn't know about the quality of the steel. Despite that half a century goes by and anything will show some wear rust etc. least we have the technology to seal the cars so they never rust again now. You'll see this Friday one hell of a battle with the firewall. Wasn't terrible but man is it a lot of exhausting work. Thanks for the comment hope you stick around
Respect to effort but a full quarter panel would in my opinion been a much better option. Only would have had plastic filler in the sail panel .now the whole panel is full of plastic filler .great effort otherwise!
Yeah you are 100% the sail idea was stupid I did but that's due to lack of experience which is why I wanted to share this. Love and learn k suppose thanks for the tips you are 100%
@@SubdivisionAuto
Those small patch panels are junk. I bought some for my niva years ago. There was no way the lower body lines would line up so I had to cut relief cuts down the pannel to make it do a happy face so both body lines would line up.
@@MrYz250fman yeah that's the problem I was having too just putting them on it wasent lining up at all. Full quarters for sure the way to go. So not even the way I did it but rather doing everything including the jams I'd say is the way to go
Looks like some huge gaps.
Yeah they were big. But it's all fixable just takes more time.
NEVER EVER EEEEEEVER do aaaanything BAD CHAD suggests, the guy is an embarrassment. looks like your weld has too much heat in it , set it right and a very flat shiny spotweld will be the result, also when doing a patch or an almost full panel replacement , your style I would not favour, rather a complete panel from jam to jam is best , BUT if you must do it your way, cut both the car and the replacement panel leaving half an inch extra metal where the cuts are , lay the panel in place and scribe the exact shape before you cut so there is no guessing and no gap to fill so everything can be a neat buttweld, other than that you're doing great
I would have to agree plus that Bad Chad is very Bad on safety, who show is sometimes enjoyable but he can be a Bad influence on DIY watchers, stick with Fritz Fab. The cut and butt guy.
No kidding eh I can't say I know much about this kind of stuff but always through Chad was one of the guys that was good. But I honestly don't know about much about him or have watched his show so I just don't know. So this comment is a bit of a surprise to me but I am grateful for it because I just didn't know. Yeah I did do it that way but I did it 5 weeks before I put it on but for some reason had a bit of a gap. Honestly I think it's just a lack of experience I did the other side (which I didn't film) and has no gap at all... Kinda wish I filmed that instead. Not sure if I said it in the video but like you should I should have done the whole thing... Door jam included. Had I known I would have to repace the sail too I would have bought a full one. Just a lack of experience and planning on my end hopefully others don't make the same mistake ! Thanks for the tips your are dead on
@@gregorypeterson9 fritz is amazing he does great work. I agree with Chad's lack of safety. Being a victim of my own stupidity I now work smarter than before.
It's called the Theory of welding. Welding cold is an absolute failure on any one Trying to be too analytical about heat settings.
I've never gone wrong welding, hot.
I've consistently failed trying to be analytical about my heat settings.
A nice red hot 1inch and a half travel is a good thing to see. But even that is not an accurate Visual on your weld heat nether is weld spatter. If you're melting through. Actually, that's a good sign for whether or not it's going to (Hold up). That's what you call a 100% penetration..
Welding too hot Is a theory a weld is always Weaker than a solid piece of steel This is why there's physics on how you lay down your weld.. The right and wrong ways of transferring stress.
It's never perfect. I've struggled with this very analytical argument, and guess what? It's a theory. It's not true
Considering many factors.
If you're new to welding, you should be wielding hot to the point that you're nearly melting through. You can add different chemistry to strengthen your welds. This tip is very natural for steel Welding. When the overall core temperature of the steel is Way over 300% You run into problems with being too hot. When the overall core temperature is no over this point, you're perfect. When the steel starts to turn gold to blue, you're getting too hot. Do not cool your welds. Let them cool slowly.
I'v welded hundreds of thousands of hours, let me tell story's of all my failures. I know what works.
Don't be so analytical about theories
Max, you're doing fine.
@@Gibbswelding its body work champ , completely different scenario that obviously you have no experience in, Id work all day on sites with professional welders that get payed for their skill, these guys wouldn't and didn't know shit about how to weld body panels because a mine isn't a panel shop
That e-coat needs to come off those quarter panels you never know what they sprayed over.
Oh the outer side yeah inner side I'm not too worried. Trick I've been using (not sure if I added it to this video) is using laquer thinner. If it comes off then it's crap e coat if it doesn't I keep it on. But like I said only for interior panels exterior I'll ripp it all down and epoxy the whole sucker one shot. But yes you are right
@@SubdivisionAuto Great I been doing this 30 years and you sir are doing an amazing job.
@@travlite8496 awesomean yeah for sure drop any suggestions you have always looking to learn! Thanks for watching and the kind words I still got a long way to go lots of mistakes and poor work still
@@SubdivisionAuto Carthage knows a lot he's a good channel to get and learn this trade from he does it correctly I wouldn't do anything Bad Chad does he's not doing things like a restoration should be done he's good at chopping cars that's about it to be honest
@@travlite8496 yeah honestly I did t watch enough of his stuff to know or have the experience to recognize he's not doing things correctly. But after all the comments I can say I am learning from you guys. Good stuff to know. Yeah Richard is amazing he does good work.
Switch to FORD. GREAT JOB.
@@taylormach1699 thanks glad you like it. Plan to do a late 60s mustang one day for my son indeed.
Not even close to the right way to put on a quarter panel. welding it on where you cut it it;s going to warp like hell. LOL You should have drilled out all the spot welds and used all the metal as it makes it so much easier and saves a ton of body work.
You are a fool , those panels are patch panels and best to remove only what needs removing …. know it alls like u miss tge point !! This guy is a beginner and did a great job !! Period
You are not wrong. Honestly I learned a lot from this was originally going to do a patch and learned the way I did It was better... But not best. If I had to do it again I would do it the way you say it's just way better.. but most people will do it the way I did so hopefully this will help some folks out. Always more than one way to do it but I will have way more bodywork because of the way I did it. Thanks for your suggestion.
Max, you are doing an excellent job. Most people wouldn’t even think about doing what you are doing. You have came a long way since you started this project. You are no different than a lot of us that had very little knowledge of what we were doing. Just remember, most people Are happy to tell you what you didn’t do exactly right. And probably haven’t done it themselves. Keep on going on your project and I will keep on with my 69.