Great video, can you make one about Water Hammer Arrestors? I see that there are all kinds of types available some have adjustable pressure (via a Schrader valve) others are not. Thanks
Thank you once again! Funny that you mention water hammer arrestors. While making this video they came to mind as a video idea as well, since they're very effective at preventing water hammer. You mention arrestors with Schrader valves...I'm wondering whether you're actually referring to expansion/bladder tanks, which essentially perform the same function as arrestors although they're constructed differently. In any event, I do have another video idea lined up for that as well, particularly in reference to thermal expansion. I've formally logged your request and will look more into the arrestors you mentioned. (NOTE that I haven't forgotten about your request for slope and grade from back in July...unfortunately, time is my greatest liability!) Thanks again for your feedback and support! 🙏
@@PlumbingsCool You got good memory about my P-Trap Arm Question! 😀 The arrestor with the Schrader valve is a LF150A Water Hammer Arrestor by Watts. I wonder if they have any benefits vs non-adjustable ones? I presume that the Schrader valve is a weak point since the air pressure always leaks eventually vs the pre-charged units?
i tried some non adjustable Oatey brand just on my washing machine, but they didn't do anything for the water hammer, my house has 70 PSI and no PRV. $72 out the window 😞
Is there a reason why a person shouldn't use a ball valve adapted with a hose fitting instead of a hose bib? It would be used for a different application. Thanks for the parts list. 👍🍻
Technically, you can use a ball valve and adapt to a 3/4" male hose outlet. As a matter of fact, there are ball valves that already have the hose thread built-in: www.dahlvalve.com/products/mini-ball-valves/hose-boiler-drain/iron/hose-boiler-drain-621-01-04-PK2.php as much as I'm a personal fan of ball valves, there are a few things to consider. First, because a ball valve is full on/full off across a short quarter-turn of the handle, you have significantly less throttling control than you do with a standard hose bib. Also, the ball valve's handle also makes it very easy to accidentally knock it open when passing by - causing a potential mess. Aside from these discrepancies, ball valves are by far my favorite valves. One thing I didn't show in this video is that I also supplied and hand-tightened a female hose threaded brass cap onto the hose bib, to prevent any inadvertent messes in the event the hose bib is turned on accidentally. You can easily find these relatively inexpensive caps at local plumbing suppliers, big box stores, or even online: www.amazon.com/s?k=brass+hose+cap&crid=23JXKF8GMFQGG&sprefix=brass+hose+cap%2Caps%2C98&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Hope this helps, and thanks for watching! 🙏
I have been chasing a bad,,, bang bang bang bang, water hammer for years. It banged when my sprinkler system changed zones. I installed a new vacuum breaker, no help. I installed a new PRV Wilkins 3/4" 70XL because that's what was making the banging on my system, no help. I installed two surge tanks on my system and no help. YES,,,, I bled all the air out of my system many times, total BS. FINALLY,,,,, I figured out the Wilkins 70XL PRV are prone water hammer, WTF! I replaced the Wilkins PRV with a Watts and fixed the problem. GEEEEEZ, years of struggle.
@@Hellocali1 I think I eventually set it to around 65 PSI, as that's what the customer requested. I'm not sure what you mean about your "sprinklers", but I'm guessing that you're referring to your outdoor lawn sprinklers (irrigation line), which are noisy either when you're running them or whenever they start/stop. If so, a pressure relief valve MAY help, but it could be other factors contributing to the noise, such as a spring-loaded check valve which may be installed along the line - causing it to go off like a shotgun!
@@Hellocali1 I set my pressure to about 75 PSI. I know that some sprinkler valves do make a, thump, then turning on or off, but my system was making a BANG BANG BANG BANG when different zones changed.
Glad you found your problem , however as a sheet rock hanger , working on gov housing projects I noticed something I had never in private housing . What that was , was the stub out pipe was soldered into a TEE rather than a 90* & on top of that was a can / anti-water hammer chambers (which is simply on air chamber) installed on all the water lines just before they exited the walls to the fixtures. Air will compress water will not ! You will notice water hammer does not occur when you turn the tap or fixture on , just when you shut it off , because that flowing water stops immediately .
@robertmintz63 Yes, those indeed sound like air chambers as you suggested. Unfortunately, those don't work in the practical sense: While you're absolutely correct that compressible air does indeed mitigate water hammer, the problem with air chambers is that there is no physical barrier between the two mediums. Therefore, even though some air will remain trapped in the chamber when you FIRST fill the system, the air very quickly disappears either via turbulence or by absorption into the water - rendering the chamber water logged and utterly useless. Your better option is the the installation of true factory-manufactured and approved water hammer arrestors (like the Watts SG050), which maintain a permanent physical barrier between the air and the water.
Great video, can you make one about Water Hammer Arrestors? I see that there are all kinds of types available some have adjustable pressure (via a Schrader valve) others are not.
Thanks
Thank you once again! Funny that you mention water hammer arrestors. While making this video they came to mind as a video idea as well, since they're very effective at preventing water hammer. You mention arrestors with Schrader valves...I'm wondering whether you're actually referring to expansion/bladder tanks, which essentially perform the same function as arrestors although they're constructed differently.
In any event, I do have another video idea lined up for that as well, particularly in reference to thermal expansion.
I've formally logged your request and will look more into the arrestors you mentioned. (NOTE that I haven't forgotten about your request for slope and grade from back in July...unfortunately, time is my greatest liability!)
Thanks again for your feedback and support! 🙏
@@PlumbingsCool You got good memory about my P-Trap Arm Question! 😀
The arrestor with the Schrader valve is a LF150A Water Hammer Arrestor by Watts.
I wonder if they have any benefits vs non-adjustable ones?
I presume that the Schrader valve is a weak point since the air pressure always leaks eventually vs the pre-charged units?
Thanks...I'll be sure to look into that Watts model you mentioned!
i tried some non adjustable Oatey brand just on my washing machine, but they didn't do anything for the water hammer, my house has 70 PSI and no PRV. $72 out the window 😞
Is there a reason why a person shouldn't use a ball valve adapted with a hose fitting instead of a hose bib? It would be used for a different application.
Thanks for the parts list. 👍🍻
Technically, you can use a ball valve and adapt to a 3/4" male hose outlet. As a matter of fact, there are ball valves that already have the hose thread built-in:
www.dahlvalve.com/products/mini-ball-valves/hose-boiler-drain/iron/hose-boiler-drain-621-01-04-PK2.php
as much as I'm a personal fan of ball valves, there are a few things to consider. First, because a ball valve is full on/full off across a short quarter-turn of the handle, you have significantly less throttling control than you do with a standard hose bib. Also, the ball valve's handle also makes it very easy to accidentally knock it open when passing by - causing a potential mess. Aside from these discrepancies, ball valves are by far my favorite valves.
One thing I didn't show in this video is that I also supplied and hand-tightened a female hose threaded brass cap onto the hose bib, to prevent any inadvertent messes in the event the hose bib is turned on accidentally. You can easily find these relatively inexpensive caps at local plumbing suppliers, big box stores, or even online:
www.amazon.com/s?k=brass+hose+cap&crid=23JXKF8GMFQGG&sprefix=brass+hose+cap%2Caps%2C98&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Hope this helps, and thanks for watching! 🙏
I have been chasing a bad,,, bang bang bang bang, water hammer for years. It banged when my sprinkler system changed zones. I installed a new vacuum breaker, no help. I installed a new PRV Wilkins 3/4" 70XL because that's what was making the banging on my system, no help. I installed two surge tanks on my system and no help. YES,,,, I bled all the air out of my system many times, total BS. FINALLY,,,,, I figured out the Wilkins 70XL PRV are prone water hammer, WTF! I replaced the Wilkins PRV with a Watts and fixed the problem. GEEEEEZ, years of struggle.
Wilkins, eh?...Good to know! 👍 Thanks!
@@Hellocali1 I think I eventually set it to around 65 PSI, as that's what the customer requested. I'm not sure what you mean about your "sprinklers", but I'm guessing that you're referring to your outdoor lawn sprinklers (irrigation line), which are noisy either when you're running them or whenever they start/stop. If so, a pressure relief valve MAY help, but it could be other factors contributing to the noise, such as a spring-loaded check valve which may be installed along the line - causing it to go off like a shotgun!
@@Hellocali1 I set my pressure to about 75 PSI. I know that some sprinkler valves do make a, thump, then turning on or off, but my system was making a BANG BANG BANG BANG when different zones changed.
Glad you found your problem , however as a sheet rock hanger , working on gov housing projects I noticed something I had never in private housing . What that was , was the stub out pipe was soldered into a TEE rather than a 90* & on top of that was a can / anti-water hammer chambers (which is simply on air chamber) installed on all the water lines just before they exited the walls to the fixtures. Air will compress water will not !
You will notice water hammer does not occur when you turn the tap or fixture on , just when you shut it off , because that flowing water stops immediately .
@robertmintz63 Yes, those indeed sound like air chambers as you suggested. Unfortunately, those don't work in the practical sense:
While you're absolutely correct that compressible air does indeed mitigate water hammer, the problem with air chambers is that there is no physical barrier between the two mediums. Therefore, even though some air will remain trapped in the chamber when you FIRST fill the system, the air very quickly disappears either via turbulence or by absorption into the water - rendering the chamber water logged and utterly useless.
Your better option is the the installation of true factory-manufactured and approved water hammer arrestors (like the Watts SG050), which maintain a permanent physical barrier between the air and the water.