I just bought a $4,000 82,000 mile 2000 2.2 LE for my mother in law.*** Has the bent dipstick too! *** My inspection was limited to noticing it, didn't leak, blow air in the cooling system and ran ok on a 10 min test drive and had $1,000 in new Michelins on it. Loving it!
My mom had a 1999 Camry with the 4 cylinder, it came with the bent dipstick so you can only put it in one way. The bend goes towards the motor and reaches down further.
I owned a 2000 Camry LE similar to this one from 2002-2019 (14K to 151K miles). Ran great the entire 17 years I had it. It consumed a quart between oil changes (every 5000 miles), but it never got worse.
Its good to check or replace pcv valve , its very often overlooked and can cause a number os issues even thou destroy your engine .. Great video , i subscribed 👌
Hey Peter. I have a 1993 Celica with the same 5S-FE engine (no oil burning at all). The tip of the oil dipstick is supposed to be bent - mine goes in and out without any issues with that small bend just at the tip. I don't think they started using the pink coolant in that generation either. I'm aware that my 93 Celica and also the 95 Camry had green coolant as standard.
You are completely right about the spark plugs, but the bend at the end of the dipstick is intended design. Look up any dipstick from that era. The bend is on purpose!
I love Camry! Best cars and last forever. I got the spark plug answer right! Helps to view channels like this that empower viewers with important maintenance knowledge.
1996 to 2000 Toyota Ipsum/Picnic too.I have two presently.[3S-FE engine] .Just bought a 99 one imported from Japan recently.20,000 miles! Mint condition.Had that old camry in wagon form.Brilliant car too.
I personally had a 5S-FE myself a while ago. Like the others I had the funny dipstick bend. I thought it was because the dipstick tube was also bent so it helps the stick point into the correct direction at the tube bend to help it go down. Cannot fault you, your experience is in the trucks. I have been waiting a long time finally to see you bring in Camrys. They are plentiful in the city. This engine is very clean. Looks like a new aftermarket expansion tank too. Seems like that shop down the street made a lot of money from him. Alternator looks new. Timing belts and wp. OEM filter. Trans fluid done on time.
@@daijoubu4529 depends on the application. Not all of it is as difficult to change. Some yes and some no but many are because the parts cannon is being fired at you. If it's Aisin and it's changed on time, it can go at least double. Some never have their's changed but not recording that. They're selling you fear.
Thank you Peter. Good stuff. :) Checked my exhaust pipes on my 09 Forester before I left work. Carbon deposits. 215k miles. It still gets me down the road.
Nice video, thanks. Some points to note: there is nothing wrong with the denso IK20 spark plug. You can check the denso catalogue and you will find the IK20 just beside the PK20TR11 in Toyota Canry 2.2, so you can use both. It suits the 5SFE engine just fine. The iridium tip outlast the platinum one, and both spark plugs have the proper temperature parameter (20). The iridium tip of the spark plug in the video was perfect. Also, one needs to be sure in that engine if the oil on the spark plugs is coming from the top of the tube (spark plug tube gaskets) or from the bottom (the tubes can be removed since that particular engine have threaded tubes). As a final tip, since that engine is in a "slant" position, you won't know if the valve cover is leaking until you look from the firewall side, over the injector's rail and intake manifold; it is very unlikely you will see oil from the front of the car on these engines. A good hint is to look at the power steering pump (top view) as the engine oil loves to pour over there. Ask me how i know all these things, i have one and i love it!
I've owned a '69 Toyota Corona. It was given to my by my brother, a beater car, strong engine, but wouldn't idle, and when you hit the brakes, wow it pulled so hard (dangerously) to the left. Kept it only a little while, maybe 3 months. Got rid of it, and that was the only Toyota I've owned : until one year ago, bought an '04 Corolla. Great car, never had a car with so many miles on it, and runs so PERFECT! Incredible, it needed a frnt. Right wheel bearing and a clutch,,,, at 179k. Purely INCREDIBLE car! 46 mpg driven gently at 68 mph.
The good old Coronas. Might have needed a carburetor adjustment or the distributor was out of time. Timing used to be by turning it a few degrees. Pulling like that tells me the left caliper worked and the right was stuck and not working.
Great information Peter. I just seen a video from possibly Rainman Rays Repairs about the seals around the spark plugs on the inside of the valve cover when he replaced a valve cover gasket. Nice job, a learning experience from both yours and his video.
No worries about your hair, sir. I enjoy your content its all that matters. Also, can you do a video on pricing for each type of services on different toyota models? When you have time. And congrats on your new shop. Perhaps you can have a contractor bud a second level for an office near the garage door or in the back. Someday?
2000 2.2 here 288k and climbing had a small issue with oil consumption but replaced the PCV Valve and it went away. Paid 500$ for it 1.5yrs ago and never had any problems, look forward to many years of trouble free service 😁
My 1999 RAV4 with the 3S-FE “consumes” a lot of oil too. By “consumes” I mean my oil pump gasket leaks it freely whenever the engine is running. Otherwise it’s 170,000 miles strong!
My son has a 2001 Camry LE with the 2.2 liter four cylinder engine with a 190k. It does not seem to consume oil and it’s original A/C is still ice cold. The Camry that you were checking out in this video looks pristine under the hood and the exterior body looks pristine as well.
I have this exact engine and LOVE it dearly. I have all the same issues with the valve cover slightly leaking oil into the plug tubes. It's no biggie, but I will be changing the gaskets out this weekend. ALSO.... this engine benefits greatly by using NGK HX Ruthenium PSPE spark plugs. While I know you're thinking to always use OEM plugs, I would stick my neck out to say that if these Ruthenium plugs were available when this engine was designed, they would have been the Toyota sanctioned OEM plugs for this engine.... cause they work that much better. Get them on Rock Auto. It's totally worth it performance-wise.
This 2.2 engine can leak oil from the oil pump gasket after 100,000 miles or so. What I do is change the oil pump and the gasket when the cambelt gets changed along with a new shaft seal and water pump. Also the back of the valve cover gasket can leak oil after a similar mileage.
Toyota used those NGK double platinum electrode plugs because at the time (in 1990- when the engine was designed) they were considered cutting edge having redundant electrodes. These plugs fell out of favor because the design assured spark but also inhibited the flame kernel. The NGK HX Ruthenium PSPE plugs I talk about below allow the flame kernel full access to the mixture resulting in a more efficient burn. This electrode and metallurgy technology simply wasn't available when this engine was designed.
Word to the wise for 97-01 Camry 3.0 V6 engine owners. If headlights are blinking/storobing- up grade alternator to 130 amp from 2003 Toyota Highlander V6 which solves problem. And yes, it is a direct drop in / plug & play...
Does the alternator fuse block in the box need to be upgraded as well or not? Any concerns about the wiring not able to handle the new voltage outputs?
@@LAactor I used this upgrade amp alternator method and it worked. I spent hours and hours of research on the subject. The flickering lights drove me absolutely insane with factory setting 90amp alt but when 130 amp alternator installed, the flickering/strobing light cleared up 97%..... I went a step further and spent $400.00 on a custom built 240 amp alternator from a company online (Mechman alternator in Tennessee) just to have satisfaction that I conquered problem. To answer ur question, no wiring-relays-selinoid or fuses have to be upgraded or messed with. Simply go to auto store and buy 2003 Toyota Highlander 130 amp alternator and bolt it in. Fits like a glove plus pin out matches Camry. Amps is like a bank account. The system will only take what it needs, in this case amps, and leave the rest of the leftover amps it does not use in the savings account safe but will use if needed..... Trust me, I spent huge amounts of unnecessary money (into the hundreds) replacing light bulbs- the two damn headlight relays under the hood right and left side plus ripped the dashboard to replace new headlight relay hidden behind the radio. The upgraded amp alt fixed the problem. And no, your car is not going to burn down to the ground if u do install upgraded amp alt.... More amps to better.
I also hope you suggest the owner to also used the proper antifreeze,red or Asian specifically.I learned the hard way that the boiling point are different per engine composition,aluminum to cast iron.I literally overheat my oil which caused 2 engine failures due to using improperly antifreeze that not only burned out,it melted the oil pump seals.My plugs wasn't effected or any head or valve cover leaks despite I never seen a valve cover gasket on any of my 5fs motors on my 99 4cyl Camey-American model. Please inform the owner to use the Asian type antifreeze and Asian transmission fluid which is highly recommended by whatever Asian vehicle someone may have.Same rule applies for European and American car brands.
Those early ASIN trans just calls for Dexron III ATF, but yes it needs HOAT antifreeze, mixing antifreeze with domestic counterpart is a very bad idea, maybe OK if doing a full flush.
The V6 1MZ-FE was only "famous" for sludge if the oil wasn't changed on time or synthetic oil wasn't used. No sludge in my 20 year old Camry but it is burning some oil due to the valve seats or guides. No surprise after 270K. Nevertheless, Toyota shelled out lots of money in class-action settlements.
That engine is bulletproof and you don't even need synthetic, just regular changes. A lot of photos made the rounds on that sludge problem and kind of freaked ppl out but those were the ppl not doing maintenance because "Toyota." Look at the motor now, probably more 250k+ of them on the road than any other manufacturer, still with excellent compression and almost no issues.
Yah I’ve had a 95 sleep 3.0 and a 2000 es300 and no issues. Camry got taken out with 247,000 and L has 177,000 currently. Oh I worked at toyota Lexus for 15 yrs lol. Have a sequoia and Corolla also
@@gs7865 I've run it hard for at least half of its 20 years. I didn't expect it to last as long as it has. Seems to run a bit better on premium which is why the manual says "recommended" but not required. Leaking valve cover gaskets have been the only problem I've had. I've read it's not uncommon on this engine after about 10 years. I do a throttle body cleaning on occasion when there's startup issues.
While agree with using the manufacturer's recommendation for brand and part number of spark plugs (and O2 sensors, in my opinion) it is OK to move up to an irridium plug from a platinum or double platinum plug. You'd never want to move down from a recommended irridium plug to a platinum plug. That said, the owners manual on these does say to stick with twin ground platinum plugs but I don't see anything wrong with running an irridium or ruthenium plug on that. I definitely wouldn't run a single ground platinum or copper plug.
Because of the waste spark system, it will wear down the ground electrode, that's why it calls for double grounds/double plats, may be fine if the car dies before the plugs lol
@@daijoubu4529 Yes, that might be true if a single electrode platinum plug is used. An irridium plug has iridium on both electrodes so that's not an issue. That car was built before irridium plugs came out, or were commonly in use. Even so, there are lots of other vehicles using waste spark systems that don't use those double ground electrode plugs. An irridium plug will far outlast, and perform just as well as, if not better than, those double grounded platinum plugs.
@@johnaclark1 What do you think about those cheaper Ruthenium plugs? I'm gonna replace them on my 2GRFE V6 and its such a PITA that I may be tempted to just stick to the high ignition iridium plugs it calls for
@@daijoubu4529 According to Mike Becker at NGK/NTK, they are better than iridium and you can run them in most anything. I'm running them in my 98 Nissan 200SX 1.6L and my 2002 GMC 5.3L. Both running great.
I have an 03 Camry with the 3.0 V6 it has 114,400 miles.it doesn't use or burn a drop of oil in between changes,5000 mile intervals.i also had the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs and seals done last year and no sludge in my engine.
@@rkgsd yeah,it is low mileage but these engines are supposedly known for sludging.it shows if maintained well it won't happen and these have been known to last for 250 to 300,000 miles if taken care of.
On my TC there was a recall on the 2.4 liters because of the cylinder rings. My car was about a quart every 1200 -1500 miles with 150 thousand miles on the clock Toyota doesn’t cover the warranty for the cylinder rings if it’s more then a quart less then 1000 miles
This generation camry with the 5s -fe are awesome cars. I've seen them cheap and in running condition. I don't think people these days know about how reliable these cars are.
That dipstick is supposed to be bent...i have a 98 camry thats the same way. Every camry ive seen at the salvage yard was the same way...its a small thing, but learn your stuff before you just go and do something.
Have the same engine and I add about 1.5 quarts between changes. Looked at the spark plugs and there is white residue on the ends of them which tells me they are burning hot due to oil getting past the valve stems. Oil is cheap so I’ll just keep adding oil and I don’t care if I burn out the cat since I live in a state where there isn’t any inspections so a emission light on is no big deal to me.
I have a 2001 Camry LE. 103000 original miles. Maybe 1/2 pint oil in 5000 miles, probably even less than that. I fixed all the oil leaks a year ago when I purchased it with about 86500 miles. Had about 6 major oil leaks from brittle rubber like seals.
As long as the heat range is correct (20), it doesn't matter what type of tip the plugs have. The iridiums would have been a direct upgrade replacement for the plugs in the manual.
Mostly but not totally true. On engines that fire at both compression and exhaust strokes twin grounds help reduce wear as opposed to single ground plugs.
Maybe could have soaked those O-Rings overnight in 303 Protectant . And for any leaks related to O-Rings . People have used AT-205 Reseal that swells them up .
For people reading, one quart between oil changes is normal for a Camry. The OEM said the amount of loss for the ring rebuild campaign for the 2.4 liters had to be a LOT more than that. 1 quart is in spec by a lot and those other guys don't know Toyotas or are trying to make money by lying.
Hey first of all gotta say (Y) for your videos. Now i have a question, i've been experiencing oil consumption on my 2001 toyota corolla, it has the 1.6 3zzfe engine but the thing that is driving me crazy is that it doesnt have any oil leak, doesnt burn any oil smoke wise actually the gases smell like a new car, it only has about 100k on the clock. What could it be? thanks!
Same city, creamery district. But a schedule in advance would be required, and if major parts not in stock would be necessary, you light need a hotel stay to get it done. Maybe a detailed inspection and regular fluid maintenance could be possible without that.
@@LAactor I don’t know your area yet ! I just need full inspection on my 2015 toyota sienna Awd with 50.000 miles, i’m planing to drive from seattle washington to California and texas 😁 is a long drive, and I need some tips from you , Thanks Peter and have a good weekend
@@funnynguyen8821 Hi again, I don't see replies unless they are marked by a thumbs up so I get notified, you can go to the about section to send an email. The shop is in Humboldt County. I am not Petr. Just helping.
Petr, you’re starting to look like the British Prime Minister Boris Johnson!🤣. Thanks for the videos. With 4 Toyotas in the family I wish you had a shop near me in Tacoma!
I have a 2009 2arfe in rav4,I am going through 1qt,oil every 300 miles,what year motor can I trust doesn't have the bad ring issue ,the car is in very good condition otherwise I feel it's worth replacing the engine if I can find a used one that the bad ring issue has been fixed
Have a 2005 Lexus ES330. Senior owned. At first it would use about 1 quart per 6,000 miles. Changed the PCV, ran BG Epr engine cleaner and installed Mobil 1 0w-40 (a excellent light 40wt oil). No more consumption. This method has worked on countless Toyotas/Lexus I have worked on. The Ow-40 is very close to a 30wt oil at temperature, so it’s a perfect oil for any engine calling for a 5w-30. *** This is what I personally have had success with. Understand this is outside of the manufacturer’s recommendations, so proceed at your own risk.
@@LAactor Castrol 0w-40 isn’t a light 40wt. Mobil one is essentially a 30wt oil if you look at its specs. Anything you do outside of the manufacturer’s recommendations is a risk. Just commenting on what works for me. Proceed at your own risk. Hope it isn’t a spun bearing
@@LAactor NEVER use engine cleaner and NEVER use oil different from what the engineers have calculated for the engine. Your engine is now almost ruined.
My 2008 Xb with the Camry 4 cyl engine began losing oil when it had only 35,000 miles. Dealer put in 0W20 and when I checked a month later, the dipstick only showed half full.
2007 Camry did the same thing at just over 100k those engines were known for it. Yes, I changed oil and filter every 5k using OEM filter. Apparently they had a poor piston ring design along with pistons. The one Toyota engine to avoid.
@@brianbumgardner8704 Not really, my 98 Corolla was also a chronic oil burner, I managed to keep if for years, but I had to add a quart of oil every week. It began after it hit about 150k miles. Something to do with the piston rings being too loose in order to decrease friction and get more mileage.
@@peterfernandezjr5914 they were done that way to excel in mileage by decreased friction. You can go to a heavier weight oil eg from 0w-20 to 5w-20 to see if that helps. Usually that means harder to start in freezing temps but you already have extra clearance between the rings and cylinder walls it would save you oil loss. The hard starting is from cold engines pushing extra hard on the pistons and rings. Your cylinders won't be pushing as hard so you'd be better off and hard starts wouldn't apply to you.
Hello, I have a 2000 camry 2.2l with high postive long term fuel trim at 20% at idle, but at higher rpm it drops to 5%, but I cannot find a leak, would a exhaust manifold or intake manifold leak would cuase this? I also have do NOT have check engine light on.
Good luck at your new shop. Thanks for keeping the videos coming.
Glad you’re back in business - fixing and filming!
I just bought a $4,000 82,000 mile 2000 2.2 LE for my mother in law.*** Has the bent dipstick too! *** My inspection was limited to noticing it, didn't leak, blow air in the cooling system and ran ok on a 10 min test drive and had $1,000 in new Michelins on it. Loving it!
My mom had a 1999 Camry with the 4 cylinder, it came with the bent dipstick so you can only put it in one way. The bend goes towards the motor and reaches down further.
I have a 2000 and 1997, both same bend. Insert with the bend facing towards the passenger side.
Welcome back Peter your new shop looks awesome.
I owned a 2000 Camry LE similar to this one from 2002-2019 (14K to 151K miles). Ran great the entire 17 years I had it. It consumed a quart between oil changes (every 5000 miles), but it never got worse.
I drove a 1999 from 100,000-200,000 miles. Same thing,used 1 quart between 5000 mile intervals
Normal.
Its good to check or replace pcv valve , its very often overlooked and can cause a number os issues even thou destroy your engine .. Great video , i subscribed 👌
Hey Peter. I have a 1993 Celica with the same 5S-FE engine (no oil burning at all). The tip of the oil dipstick is supposed to be bent - mine goes in and out without any issues with that small bend just at the tip. I don't think they started using the pink coolant in that generation either. I'm aware that my 93 Celica and also the 95 Camry had green coolant as standard.
Winner winner chicken dinner!! God bless your new shop sir. Timmy C Arizona
The 5s-fe is one of Toyotas best engines !!! I have owed 3 myself and always keep finding myself in another one! Theses Camrys are amazing
You are completely right about the spark plugs, but the bend at the end of the dipstick is intended design. Look up any dipstick from that era. The bend is on purpose!
Mine is exact the same year and color with the V6 and XLE package. Absolutely love it.
Antique sage pearl, same here!
@@daijoubu4529 I don't know grey can be called this fancy lol
I love Camry! Best cars and last forever. I got the spark plug answer right! Helps to view channels like this that empower viewers with important maintenance knowledge.
I think, that Camry is THE BEST Toyota ever made!!
1996 to 2000 Toyota Ipsum/Picnic too.I have two presently.[3S-FE engine] .Just bought a 99 one imported from Japan recently.20,000 miles! Mint condition.Had that old camry in wagon form.Brilliant car too.
I personally had a 5S-FE myself a while ago. Like the others I had the funny dipstick bend. I thought it was because the dipstick tube was also bent so it helps the stick point into the correct direction at the tube bend to help it go down.
Cannot fault you, your experience is in the trucks. I have been waiting a long time finally to see you bring in Camrys. They are plentiful in the city.
This engine is very clean. Looks like a new aftermarket expansion tank too. Seems like that shop down the street made a lot of money from him. Alternator looks new. Timing belts and wp. OEM filter. Trans fluid done on time.
If replacing timing belt, may as well replace the WP and do a coolant flush yeah
@@daijoubu4529 depends on the application. Not all of it is as difficult to change. Some yes and some no but many are because the parts cannon is being fired at you. If it's Aisin and it's changed on time, it can go at least double. Some never have their's changed but not recording that. They're selling you fear.
Thank you Peter. Good stuff. :) Checked my exhaust pipes on my 09 Forester before I left work. Carbon deposits. 215k miles. It still gets me down the road.
Nice video, thanks. Some points to note: there is nothing wrong with the denso IK20 spark plug. You can check the denso catalogue and you will find the IK20 just beside the PK20TR11 in Toyota Canry 2.2, so you can use both. It suits the 5SFE engine just fine. The iridium tip outlast the platinum one, and both spark plugs have the proper temperature parameter (20). The iridium tip of the spark plug in the video was perfect.
Also, one needs to be sure in that engine if the oil on the spark plugs is coming from the top of the tube (spark plug tube gaskets) or from the bottom (the tubes can be removed since that particular engine have threaded tubes).
As a final tip, since that engine is in a "slant" position, you won't know if the valve cover is leaking until you look from the firewall side, over the injector's rail and intake manifold; it is very unlikely you will see oil from the front of the car on these engines. A good hint is to look at the power steering pump (top view) as the engine oil loves to pour over there.
Ask me how i know all these things, i have one and i love it!
Leaking valve cover gasket would have been priority at same time as plug change. Glad to see you making videos in new garage. CONGRATULATIONS 🎊 🤙
Welcome back Peter! That is one clean car.
I've owned a '69 Toyota Corona. It was given to my by my brother, a beater car, strong engine, but wouldn't idle, and when you hit the brakes, wow it pulled so hard (dangerously) to the left. Kept it only a little while, maybe 3 months. Got rid of it, and that was the only Toyota I've owned : until one year ago, bought an '04 Corolla. Great car, never had a car with so many miles on it, and runs so PERFECT! Incredible, it needed a frnt. Right wheel bearing and a clutch,,,, at 179k. Purely INCREDIBLE car! 46 mpg driven gently at 68 mph.
The good old Coronas. Might have needed a carburetor adjustment or the distributor was out of time. Timing used to be by turning it a few degrees. Pulling like that tells me the left caliper worked and the right was stuck and not working.
Excellent investigative techniques Peter. Thank you for posting your videos. One of my favorite channels.
Congrats Peter
Congrats on your "Grand Opening" at the new shop!
Great information Peter. I just seen a video from possibly Rainman Rays Repairs about the seals around the spark plugs on the inside of the valve cover when he replaced a valve cover gasket. Nice job, a learning experience from both yours and his video.
I've owned a 2000 camry with the same 2.2 l engine for over a decade and that dipstick was supposed to be bent to slide easily into the bent tube
Same for the V6 dipstick.
No worries about your hair, sir. I enjoy your content its all that matters. Also, can you do a video on pricing for each type of services on different toyota models? When you have time. And congrats on your new shop. Perhaps you can have a contractor bud a second level for an office near the garage door or in the back. Someday?
Not the rings but the gearing forced the engine to run high rpms on the highway for long periods. E10 fuel accelerated the issue even further.
2000 2.2 here 288k and climbing had a small issue with oil consumption but replaced the PCV Valve and it went away. Paid 500$ for it 1.5yrs ago and never had any problems, look forward to many years of trouble free service 😁
Welcome back! Good job as always.
My 1999 RAV4 with the 3S-FE “consumes” a lot of oil too. By “consumes” I mean my oil pump gasket leaks it freely whenever the engine is running. Otherwise it’s 170,000 miles strong!
My son has a 2001 Camry LE with the 2.2 liter four cylinder engine with a 190k. It does not seem to consume oil and it’s original A/C is still ice cold. The Camry that you were checking out in this video looks pristine under the hood and the exterior body looks pristine as well.
Thanks for sharing this, really good inspection thanks
Best of luck in the new garage Peter. I love the hair style.👍🇨🇮
I have this exact engine and LOVE it dearly. I have all the same issues with the valve cover slightly leaking oil into the plug tubes. It's no biggie, but I will be changing the gaskets out this weekend. ALSO.... this engine benefits greatly by using NGK HX Ruthenium PSPE spark plugs. While I know you're thinking to always use OEM plugs, I would stick my neck out to say that if these Ruthenium plugs were available when this engine was designed, they would have been the Toyota sanctioned OEM plugs for this engine.... cause they work that much better. Get them on Rock Auto. It's totally worth it performance-wise.
This 2.2 engine can leak oil from the oil pump gasket after 100,000 miles or so. What I do is change the oil pump and the gasket when the cambelt gets changed along with a new shaft seal and water pump. Also the back of the valve cover gasket can leak oil after a similar mileage.
First of many Toyota to come!
Howdy buddy!
Toyota used those NGK double platinum electrode plugs because at the time (in 1990- when the engine was designed) they were considered cutting edge having redundant electrodes. These plugs fell out of favor because the design assured spark but also inhibited the flame kernel. The NGK HX Ruthenium PSPE plugs I talk about below allow the flame kernel full access to the mixture resulting in a more efficient burn. This electrode and metallurgy technology simply wasn't available when this engine was designed.
Great to see you back, best of luck
Word to the wise for 97-01 Camry 3.0 V6 engine owners. If headlights are blinking/storobing- up grade alternator to 130 amp from 2003 Toyota Highlander V6 which solves problem. And yes, it is a direct drop in / plug & play...
Does the alternator fuse block in the box need to be upgraded as well or not? Any concerns about the wiring not able to handle the new voltage outputs?
@@LAactor I used this upgrade amp alternator method and it worked. I spent hours and hours of research on the subject. The flickering lights drove me absolutely insane with factory setting 90amp alt but when 130 amp alternator installed, the flickering/strobing light cleared up 97%..... I went a step further and spent $400.00 on a custom built 240 amp alternator from a company online (Mechman alternator in Tennessee) just to have satisfaction that I conquered problem. To answer ur question, no wiring-relays-selinoid or fuses have to be upgraded or messed with. Simply go to auto store and buy 2003 Toyota Highlander 130 amp alternator and bolt it in. Fits like a glove plus pin out matches Camry. Amps is like a bank account. The system will only take what it needs, in this case amps, and leave the rest of the leftover amps it does not use in the savings account safe but will use if needed..... Trust me, I spent huge amounts of unnecessary money (into the hundreds) replacing light bulbs- the two damn headlight relays under the hood right and left side plus ripped the dashboard to replace new headlight relay hidden behind the radio. The upgraded amp alt fixed the problem. And no, your car is not going to burn down to the ground if u do install upgraded amp alt.... More amps to better.
I also hope you suggest the owner to also used the proper antifreeze,red or Asian specifically.I learned the hard way that the boiling point are different per engine composition,aluminum to cast iron.I literally overheat my oil which caused 2 engine failures due to using improperly antifreeze that not only burned out,it melted the oil pump seals.My plugs wasn't effected or any head or valve cover leaks despite I never seen a valve cover gasket on any of my 5fs motors on my 99 4cyl Camey-American model.
Please inform the owner to use the Asian type antifreeze and Asian transmission fluid which is highly recommended by whatever Asian vehicle someone may have.Same rule applies for European and American car brands.
Those early ASIN trans just calls for Dexron III ATF, but yes it needs HOAT antifreeze, mixing antifreeze with domestic counterpart is a very bad idea, maybe OK if doing a full flush.
The V6 1MZ-FE was only "famous" for sludge if the oil wasn't changed on time or synthetic oil wasn't used. No sludge in my 20 year old Camry but it is burning some oil due to the valve seats or guides. No surprise after 270K. Nevertheless, Toyota shelled out lots of money in class-action settlements.
That engine is bulletproof and you don't even need synthetic, just regular changes. A lot of photos made the rounds on that sludge problem and kind of freaked ppl out but those were the ppl not doing maintenance because "Toyota." Look at the motor now, probably more 250k+ of them on the road than any other manufacturer, still with excellent compression and almost no issues.
Yah I’ve had a 95 sleep 3.0 and a 2000 es300 and no issues. Camry got taken out with 247,000 and L has 177,000 currently. Oh I worked at toyota Lexus for 15 yrs lol. Have a sequoia and Corolla also
@@gs7865 I've run it hard for at least half of its 20 years. I didn't expect it to last as long as it has. Seems to run a bit better on premium which is why the manual says "recommended" but not required. Leaking valve cover gaskets have been the only problem I've had. I've read it's not uncommon on this engine after about 10 years. I do a throttle body cleaning on occasion when there's startup issues.
Toyota did actually make a Corona. My dad actually drove one back in the 1980s. He drove it literally until the doors fell off.
While agree with using the manufacturer's recommendation for brand and part number of spark plugs (and O2 sensors, in my opinion) it is OK to move up to an irridium plug from a platinum or double platinum plug. You'd never want to move down from a recommended irridium plug to a platinum plug. That said, the owners manual on these does say to stick with twin ground platinum plugs but I don't see anything wrong with running an irridium or ruthenium plug on that. I definitely wouldn't run a single ground platinum or copper plug.
Because of the waste spark system, it will wear down the ground electrode, that's why it calls for double grounds/double plats, may be fine if the car dies before the plugs lol
@@daijoubu4529 Yes, that might be true if a single electrode platinum plug is used. An irridium plug has iridium on both electrodes so that's not an issue. That car was built before irridium plugs came out, or were commonly in use. Even so, there are lots of other vehicles using waste spark systems that don't use those double ground electrode plugs. An irridium plug will far outlast, and perform just as well as, if not better than, those double grounded platinum plugs.
@@johnaclark1 What do you think about those cheaper Ruthenium plugs? I'm gonna replace them on my 2GRFE V6 and its such a PITA that I may be tempted to just stick to the high ignition iridium plugs it calls for
@@daijoubu4529 According to Mike Becker at NGK/NTK, they are better than iridium and you can run them in most anything. I'm running them in my 98 Nissan 200SX 1.6L and my 2002 GMC 5.3L. Both running great.
I have an 03 Camry with the 3.0 V6 it has 114,400 miles.it doesn't use or burn a drop of oil in between changes,5000 mile intervals.i also had the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs and seals done last year and no sludge in my engine.
Well good lord the engine has half the miles it normally would for 19 years of age! The equivalent of 6K per year.
@@rkgsd yeah,it is low mileage but these engines are supposedly known for sludging.it shows if maintained well it won't happen and these have been known to last for 250 to 300,000 miles if taken care of.
Very nice informative video. Can I bring my Camry to get it checked and fix I have some weird noise in morning when starting. Thank you.
On my TC there was a recall on the 2.4 liters because of the cylinder rings. My car was about a quart every 1200 -1500 miles with 150 thousand miles on the clock Toyota doesn’t cover the warranty for the cylinder rings if it’s more then a quart less then 1000 miles
The 2AZ version. That engine is also in Camrys and Rav4s in that era.
Same with my 2003 Camry. Finally sold it after 250k miles. The embarrassing blue smoke just annoyed me too much on startup.
What year is your Scion tc ?
I have an 05 .
@@jayhockley8841 it was an 09
@@raultroncoso4522 Ok , yeah I heard they had problems from 07 up ..
This generation camry with the 5s -fe are awesome cars. I've seen them cheap and in running condition. I don't think people these days know about how reliable these cars are.
If they're all over on the road for their age, it means something lol you won't see a 20+ years American car as often
Non interference engine. Muy bueno
That dipstick is supposed to be bent...i have a 98 camry thats the same way. Every camry ive seen at the salvage yard was the same way...its a small thing, but learn your stuff before you just go and do something.
Bravo Peter!
Have the same engine and I add about 1.5 quarts between changes. Looked at the spark plugs and there is white residue on the ends of them which tells me they are burning hot due to oil getting past the valve stems. Oil is cheap so I’ll just keep adding oil and I don’t care if I burn out the cat since I live in a state where there isn’t any inspections so a emission light on is no big deal to me.
I have a 2001 Camry LE. 103000 original miles. Maybe 1/2 pint oil in 5000 miles, probably even less than that. I fixed all the oil leaks a year ago when I purchased it with about 86500 miles. Had about 6 major oil leaks from brittle rubber like seals.
You're established with great hair character. Stand-up look fits you.🤩
As long as the heat range is correct (20), it doesn't matter what type of tip the plugs have. The iridiums would have been a direct upgrade replacement for the plugs in the manual.
Mostly but not totally true. On engines that fire at both compression and exhaust strokes twin grounds help reduce wear as opposed to single ground plugs.
Were you in Flock of Seagulls back in the 80s? :) Congratulations on the new shop!
Welcome back !
Also how likely is a bad or stuck open pcv valve the cause of massive oil consumption
What about PCV VALVE?
Lotsa ripoff shops out there who indulge in unscrupulous practices
Great job 👍God bless you 😇
I was just chuckling about your hair just when you started laughing too.
They did make Corona (not sure on spelling) as I owned a yellow one many years back.CHEERS from here!
Maybe could have soaked those O-Rings overnight in 303 Protectant . And for any leaks related to O-Rings . People have used AT-205 Reseal that swells them up .
The oildipstick bended originally! That how it comes from the factory!
For people reading, one quart between oil changes is normal for a Camry. The OEM said the amount of loss for the ring rebuild campaign for the 2.4 liters had to be a LOT more than that. 1 quart is in spec by a lot and those other guys don't know Toyotas or are trying to make money by lying.
Corona is spanish for crown. The Toyota Crown is what they call the camry in Asia before
The previous shop offered to buy it? Wow, red flags waving.
Peter you always look good, but maybe a little trim?
Hi, will you do a compression leak down test to check rings?
Wow very good job l love it
I have a 2001 Camry. The tip of my dipstick is bent. It is made that way. The bend tells me how to replace the item.
He bought a Toyota Corona 🤣🤣
Hey first of all gotta say (Y) for your videos. Now i have a question, i've been experiencing oil consumption on my 2001 toyota corolla, it has the 1.6 3zzfe engine but the thing that is driving me crazy is that it doesnt have any oil leak, doesnt burn any oil smoke wise actually the gases smell like a new car, it only has about 100k on the clock. What could it be? thanks!
Maybe replace the PCV valve
Hello Peter! welcome back sir , where are your new shop location ? I’m from Seattle I would like to go to your shop this summer 😁 Thanks sir
Same city, creamery district. But a schedule in advance would be required, and if major parts not in stock would be necessary, you light need a hotel stay to get it done. Maybe a detailed inspection and regular fluid maintenance could be possible without that.
@@LAactor I don’t know your area yet ! I just need full inspection on my 2015 toyota sienna Awd with 50.000 miles, i’m planing to drive from seattle washington to California and texas 😁 is a long drive, and I need some tips from you , Thanks Peter and have a good weekend
@@funnynguyen8821 Hi again, I don't see replies unless they are marked by a thumbs up so I get notified, you can go to the about section to send an email. The shop is in Humboldt County. I am not Petr. Just helping.
@@LAactor ok thanks I’ll try 😁
Thanks sir
Toyota Corona was a model sold in Japan. Could imagine someone who lived in Japan maybe confusing the names. My guess.
Petr, you’re starting to look like the British Prime Minister Boris Johnson!🤣. Thanks for the videos. With 4 Toyotas in the family I wish you had a shop near me in Tacoma!
I have a 2009 2arfe in rav4,I am going through 1qt,oil every 300 miles,what year motor can I trust doesn't have the bad ring issue ,the car is in very good condition otherwise I feel it's worth replacing the engine if I can find a used one that the bad ring issue has been fixed
NEW SHOP!!!
❤❤❤
Condition of the spark plugs?
Man this guy sounds awfully close of a foreign version of Mr. Rogers for Toyota...
Mr. Rogers had better sweaters than Peter does.
From pete to pete. I'm celebrating for you with some aldes sauerkraut
Thanks so much
Have a 2005 Lexus ES330. Senior owned. At first it would use about 1 quart per 6,000 miles. Changed the PCV, ran BG Epr engine cleaner and installed Mobil 1 0w-40 (a excellent light 40wt oil). No more consumption. This method has worked on countless Toyotas/Lexus I have worked on. The Ow-40 is very close to a 30wt oil at temperature, so it’s a perfect oil for any engine calling for a 5w-30.
*** This is what I personally have had success with. Understand this is outside of the manufacturer’s recommendations, so proceed at your own risk.
@@LAactor Castrol 0w-40 isn’t a light 40wt. Mobil one is essentially a 30wt oil if you look at its specs. Anything you do outside of the manufacturer’s recommendations is a risk. Just commenting on what works for me. Proceed at your own risk. Hope it isn’t a spun bearing
When you think you know more than the engineers, don't be surprised when things go wrong. The oil type recommendations aren't just made up.
@@LAactor NEVER use engine cleaner and NEVER use oil different from what the engineers have calculated for the engine. Your engine is now almost ruined.
@@rkgsd Not ALL engine cleaners are “bad”. That’s just simply incorrect and definitely not a hard fast rule. There are a lot of factors
Peter, did you not see oil on the spark plug boot when you pulled it out?
2000 Toyota Camry 2.2 and also have a bent tip
Maybe he put corona in the gas tank.
My 2008 Xb with the Camry 4 cyl engine began losing oil when it had only 35,000 miles. Dealer put in 0W20 and when I checked a month later, the dipstick only showed half full.
2007 Camry did the same thing at just over 100k those engines were known for it. Yes, I changed oil and filter every 5k using OEM filter. Apparently they had a poor piston ring design along with pistons. The one Toyota engine to avoid.
@@brianbumgardner8704 Not really, my 98 Corolla was also a chronic oil burner, I managed to keep if for years, but I had to add a quart of oil every week. It began after it hit about 150k miles. Something to do with the piston rings being too loose in order to decrease friction and get more mileage.
@@peterfernandezjr5914 they were done that way to excel in mileage by decreased friction.
You can go to a heavier weight oil eg from 0w-20 to 5w-20 to see if that helps. Usually that means harder to start in freezing temps but you already have extra clearance between the rings and cylinder walls it would save you oil loss. The hard starting is from cold engines pushing extra hard on the pistons and rings. Your cylinders won't be pushing as hard so you'd be better off and hard starts wouldn't apply to you.
Even burning oil toyotas are more reliable than most cars.
Hello, I have a 2000 camry 2.2l with high postive long term fuel trim at 20% at idle, but at higher rpm it drops to 5%, but I cannot find a leak, would a exhaust manifold or intake manifold leak would cuase this? I also have do NOT have check engine light on.
Can i ask will the Cat be damaged if a vehicle uses a lot of oil?
Yes it's called oil poisoning and can clog the passages or break down the precious metals on the honeycomb that convert the gases
@@LAactor Thanks.
👍👍 very informative
I guessed sparkplugs! (I just replaced the 6 plugs in my Tacoma today). Keep the hair!
No your hair looks good!👍
You definitely have to leave the hair it could be your signature mark. Looks awesome like Einstein
1ZZ-FE engine also burn oil
👍👍
Congrats on the new shop!!! That oily plug makes me sad…engine needs some TLC and attention, just like your hair!! 😅
I have a 1999 Camry with the same engine. It too has the bent dipstick.
The engineers designed the dipstick that way. This is normal.
@@rkgsd that’s what I thought.
Keep that haircut Peter, it looks heavy metal!
Excruciating..Bet its the PCV valve stuck open
good work
I thought this was a rerun. My apologies. Fantastic turnaround. God bless and buena suerte