This was a great review and I will be adding this resin printer to my possible choices. Especially every time I turn around there appears another 3D printer hitting the market. Thanks for sharing.
I just bought a Mars 4 Max, I love my machine too. Still working on getting higher details out of it, but I'm on my way. New subscriber, looking forward to more videos with this machine and your thoughts.
Nice vid! :) I have a Mars 2 Pro that I have had for over a year and a half without any issues. I watched a vid a few months ago and tried curing a print in water and now do it with every print. I got a clear container (half a coke bottle), filled it with water, placed the washed print in it then put it in my wash and cure station and left it in for 10 mins. The result was soooo much better than curing in air. No stickyness to the print surface and it also looked better and crisper. Give it a try. :)
I am all for improvements, and we are finally at the point where resolution really doesn't really matter - as long as its at 'worst' 33 microns. From somewhere around 33 down to 25 micron level - you really can't see the print difference from resolution alone, especially with 2xAA on. The only time your seeing it, is magnification of some sort, via magnifier or zoom or macro shots, etc. So we are at the peak of need for smaller pixels - so - it's time to cram more into screen sizes higher than typical. I want to see improvements elsewhere now, like USB in front - maybe even under a silicone plug system (so an entire USB bay is covered by a silicone sock) - imagine a rather large 'inset' in the front or side - you pull up/out the silicone sock to access a 'lays flat' usb outlet. (instead of sticking the USB stick out- thus creating a hazard and taking more room) - there is gap inside the prniter enough, so as long as the internal geometry can be arranged around it, it shouldn't be an issue. Don't like that idea? Ok.. how bot.. heated space to get resin up to temps (around 25C) where it prints best? We already have basic standards like wifi connect and such, but having more memory on unit to store files (and copying files to the printer form USB in case of problems to use the onboard storage to print from instead of usb) now it's time to refine some areas. I personally want to see: ~dual linear rod standards ~the boxy 4 point bed attachment instead of the ball and knob ~ heated chamber to get resin up to 25C somehow, directly or indirectly. (maybe a heated vat where the walls of the vat have some sort of heating element in them, and covered in silicone on the outer edges and top? (to prevent heat from warming anything else besides the resin up), but when in place, touches contact pads or similar system to wireless charging to power it?) ~ larger print volumes, it would be nice to get toward the range of 800mm tall as a standard, but also larger XY - this will need a lot though, as 'larger print' causing more suction thus could cause deformation of print, or, print separation - so there will be a maximum somewhere. ~ detections of failed print (these are slowly being introduced with a bed that is pressure mounted) for my desires, it doesn't quite check the boxes (not the above what i want to see either, as I don't think any printer does) - but it comes close, and seems to be excellent for a minis printer or just small things in general. (what resins excel at)
I usually can get the cleaning layers it prints out by putting removed supports in the corner before running the cleaning process. It’s rare that I can’t remove the cleaning layer and don’t get a freshly cleaning FEP surface that way…
Once this printer comes down to £250 I will be intersted. Elegoo is on point with all the printers they are currently releasing and will be buying the Neptune 4 as my first FDM. Personally, I never clean the vat out as it creates more problems than it solves, I use auto supports and always print directly on the build plate and never have any failures.
I always print on the plate too, I have had the worst failures with everything at a 45 with supports...like a massive print breaking free from the supports in the raft and making a massive resin splash. Like a tidal wave ruining the inside of my printer hood. There are ways to compensate for elephants foot in chitubox so might as well use the bed.
Do you need to buy the Mercury XS Bundle for washing and curing the resin? If you do get the Bundle, is the only Resin you can use the Water-Washable Resin or can you use any resin? I am new to resin and think I am going to go w/ this model but not sure if the Wash/Cure is a necessity or just something to save on time.
It's not a necessity but cleaning your prints is. If you don't buy a wash and cure machine, you will still need a cleaning solution (IPA for non-water washable resins) and something like a tray and clean paint brush.
Great review. However A) you didn't have to empty the vat - just run a vat clean with a piece of support in one corner and pull up the resin sheet with any failed parts of your print B) looks like you were using a collapsible funnel and that was what failed, not the pouring spout on the vat (I've emptied my vat on my Mars 3 with a similar spout and while it's not perfect, it worked okay) - I bought a stainless steel one as I read reviews on Amazon that these silicon collapsible ones are garbage.
And use a silicon mat underneath your work area for easier cleanup or at least some newspaper or plastic sheet. Hope that helps someone else reading this. Resin printing unfortunately requires a bunch of extra things for the post-printing steps.
Any Suggestions on what's the most "Clean and less messy" Resin Printers in the market? an Auto resin feeder and puller kinda like a hydraulic loading and unloading of the Resin liquid itself? i'd really appreciate your suggestions folks
How is the Sgetti Detective video for the Sonic Pad coming along? I was using it for a bit, but it likes to stop prints, when there is no issue at all. Now, I have it set to just show a warning, but it only shows on the Sonic Pad and not in Fluidd. Which is definitely a missed opportunity. Most of the time I have prints going, I'm not in my office, I'm on my PC downstairs. I'll just see it stop.(Which I have an old phone with the Beagle Cam app up, that I just use as a glorified nanny cam, since I got the Pad) I just wish I could get the console to show that it detected something and be able to choose if I wanna stop it or continue. I have no clue how to go about trying to get that. I just hope Creality can work on it. P.S. I still can't get the Creality Cloud app to show my cam feed. I have a Logitech C270 on the gantry, to see from Fluidd. Then the Beagle to have that on my phone.
USB PD 3.1 (profile 7) actually supports up to 48V at 5A, so maybe 24V a bit undervoltage, actually :D Of course it is supposed to negotiate the charging voltage used, and starts out at 5V.
Ricky, do you get any issues with resin printers as you do with filament on overhangs or surfaces that don't come in contact with a previous layer ? i'm so tempted to get into resin printers for quality
The system in Lychee are the reason I won't use it. Chitu manages to release a free version of their slicer that doesn't subject me to ads; Lychee should be able to do the same.
Was gonna get ULTRA but i saw that it have no ventilation hole at back of cabin :/ what you think? Should i get this one or get ULTRA and make the hole myself?
Printing all these little figurines is fine but how about some useful things? How accurate is the dimensions with even a simple cube? Gears? Can accurate machine parts be printed? If a printer is only good for kiddie figures it is useless to me. YMMV
The accuracy and detail are great with this machine, which does make it great for miniatures and busts,etc. The kicker is the resin durability. More durable resins are more expensive. Water washable is very brittle.
@@launchpad62 There is a difference between "accuracy" and "detail". You can gets LOTS of "detail" without actually being very dimensionally accurate. I see all these resin printers printing toys as examples of how "detailed" they can be. I want to see some print-in-place bearings, an accurate test cube, tolerance tests.
@@tvideo1189 I do have to say calling these "kiddie" and "toys" is pretty condescending. It sounds like you aren't the target audience for these types of artistic hobby printers then as these are hobby printers that utilize resin to get much more detail in prints, i.e. visual esthetics. I think you'd be more interested in FDM or even some commercial printers where the filaments and materials are made to be more physically useful and durable.
You caused the fail yourself - you should always rotate the print if there is a huge surface perfectly parallel to build plate. Like always, because forces acting on the support can be huge.
I don't really care about the resin printers now! I have the Elegoo Saturn 2 with the XS wash & cure system, But I be selling it all soon as the resin is far too pricey and so little for the money and time you pay for PPI, masks, paper towels ( lots of those needed ) gloves etc. and the fact that not being able to get rid of the loads of wash water which is toxic and can't be just thrown out it needs to be got rid off by a special toxic waste firm which is pricey and hard to find in the UK. All this means I finished for good with resin systems. I sticking with FDM printers. still need now to find how to get rid of the 14 liters of toxic water I got stored? the UK not the best for hot strong sun to set this resin water waste. So I don't care about the new fancy often pricey resin printers now. For me a total waste f money and time.
Why Does every 3Dprinter Channel say this is the perfect begginer printer, about every 3Dprinter that is made, well that's easy they wouldn't get a free one if they didn't say that.. And any publicity is good publicity, The New Bamboo A1 sponsored reviews same as the rest all regurgitated content copied of the first person who got their hands on it, how to Do supports, how to do flow rate, blah blah.. Weak as Piss klipper CMDs, be easier reading the full run down on what the Engineers say in there, Company Builid and test manual R&D Manual, than watch endless so called online experts Videos, that maybe. 1 out of 10 is of any kind of help, my # 1 3D TH-cam channel I think is F@#king Amazing is " itsmeadmade " and he typically runs older stuff doesn't do printer reviews I THINK... well very often if he does,... No one's Perfect but his settings are, loved that one of his Sayings.
Can't wait for your electric eyelash curler review!
As a wannabe 3D printer, this was an excellent review. The additional details regarding curing and resin types was especially helpful. Thanks.
You want to be a 3D printer??? Is being a human so hard?
This was a great review and I will be adding this resin printer to my possible choices. Especially every time I turn around there appears another 3D printer hitting the market. Thanks for sharing.
Not going to lie bro, you should have taken the chandelier sponsorship. I could really use some new light fixtures in my house.
I just bought a Mars 4 Max, I love my machine too. Still working on getting higher details out of it, but I'm on my way. New subscriber, looking forward to more videos with this machine and your thoughts.
just pulled the trigger on this printer, good deal on Amazon, I couldnt pass up. Thanks for the video sir, that explained alot!
I have a Mars 4 DLP. Absolutely have fallen in love with the thing, the print quality is untouched by my previous machine (Anycubic Photon Mono X)
Very informative review, and great choice of models :) 👍
7:30 you don't see pixelsize! You see layer width.
The foam in the packaging could also be used for terrain with miniatures! Befitting of a resin printer
Great review! :)
Great review. I needed this. Thanks for sharing.👍
Nice vid! :)
I have a Mars 2 Pro that I have had for over a year and a half without any issues. I watched a vid a few months ago and tried curing a print in water and now do it with every print.
I got a clear container (half a coke bottle), filled it with water, placed the washed print in it then put it in my wash and cure station and left it in for 10 mins. The result was soooo much better than curing in air. No stickyness to the print surface and it also looked better and crisper. Give it a try. :)
Interesting, I'll give it a try thanks.
Great video! Thank you!
6:41 audibly gasped
For the stuff I print (warhammer fantasy models), it’s the perfect printer
SunLu resin is fantastic. Water washable and ABS are incredible, Nylon like is ok, but I haven't dialed it in yet.
I am all for improvements, and we are finally at the point where resolution really doesn't really matter - as long as its at 'worst' 33 microns. From somewhere around 33 down to 25 micron level - you really can't see the print difference from resolution alone, especially with 2xAA on. The only time your seeing it, is magnification of some sort, via magnifier or zoom or macro shots, etc. So we are at the peak of need for smaller pixels - so - it's time to cram more into screen sizes higher than typical.
I want to see improvements elsewhere now, like USB in front - maybe even under a silicone plug system (so an entire USB bay is covered by a silicone sock) - imagine a rather large 'inset' in the front or side - you pull up/out the silicone sock to access a 'lays flat' usb outlet. (instead of sticking the USB stick out- thus creating a hazard and taking more room) - there is gap inside the prniter enough, so as long as the internal geometry can be arranged around it, it shouldn't be an issue.
Don't like that idea? Ok.. how bot.. heated space to get resin up to temps (around 25C) where it prints best?
We already have basic standards like wifi connect and such, but having more memory on unit to store files (and copying files to the printer form USB in case of problems to use the onboard storage to print from instead of usb) now it's time to refine some areas.
I personally want to see:
~dual linear rod standards
~the boxy 4 point bed attachment instead of the ball and knob
~ heated chamber to get resin up to 25C somehow, directly or indirectly. (maybe a heated vat where the walls of the vat have some sort of heating element in them, and covered in silicone on the outer edges and top? (to prevent heat from warming anything else besides the resin up), but when in place, touches contact pads or similar system to wireless charging to power it?)
~ larger print volumes, it would be nice to get toward the range of 800mm tall as a standard, but also larger XY - this will need a lot though, as 'larger print' causing more suction thus could cause deformation of print, or, print separation - so there will be a maximum somewhere.
~ detections of failed print (these are slowly being introduced with a bed that is pressure mounted)
for my desires, it doesn't quite check the boxes (not the above what i want to see either, as I don't think any printer does) - but it comes close, and seems to be excellent for a minis printer or just small things in general. (what resins excel at)
Did you try using the clean feature instead of pouring the resin out of the vat?
I did, but you still need to pour the majority of the resin out first.
I usually can get the cleaning layers it prints out by putting removed supports in the corner before running the cleaning process. It’s rare that I can’t remove the cleaning layer and don’t get a freshly cleaning FEP surface that way…
Bro, I screamed when you spilled... What a total nightmare... Sorry mate!
Well explained Will have a major issue getting the wife to agree to another printer though ;)
Sunlu has the best resin and I wish I bought their Saiyan
Once this printer comes down to £250 I will be intersted. Elegoo is on point with all the printers they are currently releasing and will be buying the Neptune 4 as my first FDM. Personally, I never clean the vat out as it creates more problems than it solves, I use auto supports and always print directly on the build plate and never have any failures.
Have you checked out the discount code? I believe it's a pretty good discount depending where you're buying from.
I always print on the plate too, I have had the worst failures with everything at a 45 with supports...like a massive print breaking free from the supports in the raft and making a massive resin splash. Like a tidal wave ruining the inside of my printer hood. There are ways to compensate for elephants foot in chitubox so might as well use the bed.
@@RickyImpey I havnt but will definitely use your link when im ready...pay it forward and all that.
it's currently at 229€ :)
Does it have Wi-Fi connectivity or do you have to use the usb drive only?
Do you need to buy the Mercury XS Bundle for washing and curing the resin? If you do get the Bundle, is the only Resin you can use the Water-Washable Resin or can you use any resin? I am new to resin and think I am going to go w/ this model but not sure if the Wash/Cure is a necessity or just something to save on time.
It's not a necessity but cleaning your prints is. If you don't buy a wash and cure machine, you will still need a cleaning solution (IPA for non-water washable resins) and something like a tray and clean paint brush.
Great review. However A) you didn't have to empty the vat - just run a vat clean with a piece of support in one corner and pull up the resin sheet with any failed parts of your print B) looks like you were using a collapsible funnel and that was what failed, not the pouring spout on the vat (I've emptied my vat on my Mars 3 with a similar spout and while it's not perfect, it worked okay) - I bought a stainless steel one as I read reviews on Amazon that these silicon collapsible ones are garbage.
And use a silicon mat underneath your work area for easier cleanup or at least some newspaper or plastic sheet. Hope that helps someone else reading this. Resin printing unfortunately requires a bunch of extra things for the post-printing steps.
Everyone who owns one of those silicon funnels has that spill happen. :(
Discord code isn't working. 😢
Is there another?
Any Suggestions on what's the most "Clean and less messy" Resin Printers in the market? an Auto resin feeder and puller kinda like a hydraulic loading and unloading of the Resin liquid itself? i'd really appreciate your suggestions folks
How is the Sgetti Detective video for the Sonic Pad coming along?
I was using it for a bit, but it likes to stop prints, when there is no issue at all. Now, I have it set to just show a warning, but it only shows on the Sonic Pad and not in Fluidd. Which is definitely a missed opportunity. Most of the time I have prints going, I'm not in my office, I'm on my PC downstairs. I'll just see it stop.(Which I have an old phone with the Beagle Cam app up, that I just use as a glorified nanny cam, since I got the Pad)
I just wish I could get the console to show that it detected something and be able to choose if I wanna stop it or continue. I have no clue how to go about trying to get that. I just hope Creality can work on it.
P.S. I still can't get the Creality Cloud app to show my cam feed. I have a Logitech C270 on the gantry, to see from Fluidd. Then the Beagle to have that on my phone.
hahahaha 24V on a USB port xD that is asking for trouble!
anyways, nice review :)
USB PD 3.1 (profile 7) actually supports up to 48V at 5A, so maybe 24V a bit undervoltage, actually :D Of course it is supposed to negotiate the charging voltage used, and starts out at 5V.
Ricky, do you get any issues with resin printers as you do with filament on overhangs or surfaces that don't come in contact with a previous layer ? i'm so tempted to get into resin printers for quality
The system in Lychee are the reason I won't use it. Chitu manages to release a free version of their slicer that doesn't subject me to ads; Lychee should be able to do the same.
All you need now is a flexy build plate. Releasing prints has never been easier. It's the best upgrade you can make for about $20!
Yes, I haven't tried one on a resin printer yet. I can imagine it really helps.
Was gonna get ULTRA but i saw that it have no ventilation hole at back of cabin :/ what you think? Should i get this one or get ULTRA and make the hole myself?
What was that failed print of. Right now I'm doing the Fry meme "not sure if..." 🤣
Edit: nevermind, you showed it a bit later in the video.
Which is better? max4, max 4 max, max4 ultra?
Printing all these little figurines is fine but how about some useful things? How accurate is the dimensions with even a simple cube? Gears? Can accurate machine parts be printed? If a printer is only good for kiddie figures it is useless to me. YMMV
The accuracy and detail are great with this machine, which does make it great for miniatures and busts,etc. The kicker is the resin durability. More durable resins are more expensive. Water washable is very brittle.
@@launchpad62 There is a difference between "accuracy" and "detail". You can gets LOTS of "detail" without actually being very dimensionally accurate. I see all these resin printers printing toys as examples of how "detailed" they can be. I want to see some print-in-place bearings, an accurate test cube, tolerance tests.
@@tvideo1189 I do have to say calling these "kiddie" and "toys" is pretty condescending. It sounds like you aren't the target audience for these types of artistic hobby printers then as these are hobby printers that utilize resin to get much more detail in prints, i.e. visual esthetics. I think you'd be more interested in FDM or even some commercial printers where the filaments and materials are made to be more physically useful and durable.
You caused the fail yourself - you should always rotate the print if there is a huge surface perfectly parallel to build plate. Like always, because forces acting on the support can be huge.
I don't really care about the resin printers now! I have the Elegoo Saturn 2 with the XS wash & cure system,
But I be selling it all soon as the resin is far too pricey and so little for the money and time you pay for PPI, masks, paper towels ( lots of those needed ) gloves etc.
and the fact that not being able to get rid of the loads of wash water which is toxic and can't be just thrown out it needs to be got rid off by a special toxic waste firm
which is pricey and hard to find in the UK.
All this means I finished for good with resin systems.
I sticking with FDM printers. still need now to find how to get rid of the 14 liters of toxic water I got stored? the UK not the best for hot strong sun to set this resin water waste.
So I don't care about the new fancy often pricey resin printers now. For me a total waste f money and time.
It's a bit like nuclear (fission) power. It works well, but leaves a mess of stuff that's hard to deal with afterwards.
Nothing but problems with this printer, and if you have any you find out pretty quickly that Eligoo offers nothing. Waste of money in my opinion.
Why Does every 3Dprinter Channel say this is the perfect begginer printer, about every 3Dprinter that is made, well that's easy they wouldn't get a free one if they didn't say that.. And any publicity is good publicity, The New Bamboo A1 sponsored reviews same as the rest all regurgitated content copied of the first person who got their hands on it, how to Do supports, how to do flow rate, blah blah.. Weak as Piss klipper CMDs, be easier reading the full run down on what the Engineers say in there, Company Builid and test manual R&D Manual, than watch endless so called online experts Videos, that maybe. 1 out of 10 is of any kind of help, my # 1 3D TH-cam channel I think is F@#king Amazing is " itsmeadmade " and he typically runs older stuff doesn't do printer reviews I THINK... well very often if he does,... No one's Perfect but his settings are, loved that one of his Sayings.