Thanks, KoelzSpeed Garage! I have a 'DEMO' series that I'll be posting soon that walks folks through the assembly process using a 6L80 core as an example.
Happy to contribute. I think we can all pick up little things from each other. I ordered and used for the first time just yesterday the specific bushing driver set for these and it was a pleasure to use. I’m considering the snap ring installation tool for the 1,2,3,4 piston housing. After installing the last one I noticed it was a bit over expanded. Had a new one in my overall kit and liked it better but it’s still a little tricky to get into the groove without opening it up. Looks like the tool would make rather easy.
Yep, for sure...I'm prob also going to buy that tool as well as it always a bit dicey installing that snap ring and they can get a bit over expanded...The tool would def make it easier...
Sorry to hear that, Ignacio. What was the reason for the rapid burn-up? And did all of the clutch packs burn, including low/reverse or just one or two?
I have been using the 3,5,R apply ring. I have a couple of large steels on top of the ring then an old molded piston from a 4L60 input drum on top of that. Push it down w my spring compressor and it snaps right in like butter.
So put the 3,5,R apply ring fingers down on the Belleville spring then put an old 1,2,3,4 piston inside the other end of the apply ring. Use a push/pull type threaded compressor with a centering bell style adapter. Crank her down and the snap ring will easily pop all the way in.
Nick im rebuilding my first 6l80e which I bought disassembled so im having a bit of trouble figuring where some parts go, specifically the snap ring you installed, is it the the one with a wedge/triangular profile? I see all other snap rings are flat but found one different and im wondering where it goes, thanks!
Thanks for watching, man...Check out my 6L80 Teardown and inspection video where I go through the case in detail, showing you all the different snap ring locations. It's long but will give you the information you need: th-cam.com/video/KETqyd4C_pQ/w-d-xo.html
So I wanted to ask if you had run across this……on my current 6L90 build my 2/6 clearance is just over 0.090. I have put all the old parts including the piston back in and still get the same results. I have measured everything and it would seem that it left the factory this way. I have built more that 100 of these units and NEVER seen the clearance this high.
Hey Ross...I'll start with the obvious - are you sure you have the cushion plate installed? If not, that's likely the difference... If so, measure the thickness of each friction and steel and compare to new and see what you get... I've been pushing for folks to replace their steels in these and other clutch to clutch transmissions as I've seen as much as .002 material loss due to wear in flat steels compared to factory-new...multiply .002 by the number of steels in a given clutch pack and it can be enough to push you either to the very edge of spec on the high side or beyond it...
So to answer your questions yes the waved plate is there, the steels are new replacements but are 0.001 to 0.002 thinner than the originals. At best that still only gets me a maximum of 0.010 to the good and though there are no visible hot spots on the originals it looks t like they have been hot. The 3,5,R snap ring is the thickest I have right now and does get clearance in a more comfortable range but it leaves two open lugs in the drum between the ends of the snap ring instead of one with the OE ring. I have never attempted to but I have seen where other builders will strip one side of two frictions and then put the stripped sides facing each other. That will give me approximately 0.032 less clearance and get me in the ball park. It’s puzzling because I don’t believe this unit has ever been apart since it was manufactured so it had to have had that much clearance since new.
Gotcha, didn't think you missed anything but wanted to confirm...I'd say you're correct - it left the factory with that much clearance...Given how many are built just in one day on a given assembly line, it's inevitable that a mistake would be made. What/Whose steel module did you buy? I've heard of the "z-pak" method whereby folks will do as you describe and run it but I've never done it myself. Sometimes you get a curveball or two thrown at you but I'm sure you'll hit it out of the park... ETA - I'd order a 2-6 snap ring, the thickest available - I agree with you in that the two open lugs remaining is a concern since those snap rings are of different dimension.
So let me tell you what I did and maybe (if you want) you can give your opinion. Of course I will always strive to do things correctly. I have learned it’s the only way to have a higher level of confidence/success. In this case though I did what I feel will work best with what I have. I stripped one side of one friction. I put the side I stripped against the cushion plate and the side with the friction material against the bottom steel. This got me right at 0.058 which I am much happier with. Plus I have slightly more holding area in the 2/6 clutch pack.
Hi Ross, have you reinstalled the transmission and taken it for a test drive as of yet? Curious to see how the 2-6 clutch is performing with your mods made to it.
Dont be - what's broken can be fixed (at least as far as the 6L80 is concerned). I'll be uploading more 6L80 vids over the next week or so. Thanks for watching, Lex!
Here's a modification I performed on the old Harbor Freight 20-ton hydraulic press to take the slop out of the ram by adding gibs. It really turns the cheapie press into a precision pressing implement! th-cam.com/video/X6zGj9avKIQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi James, thank you for watching...Grab a press from Harbor Freight...They have H-frame and Arbor presses and they aren't too expensive...The one you see me use in the video is a Harbor Freight press over 15 years old and still works great. I literally couldn't and wouldn't build transmissions or otherwise be without one.
Best transmission channel on TH-cam by a mile. I swear I learn 10 new things every video. Thanks Nick !
Thanks, Doctor!
Very very detailed videos. Great job. I hope you're going to make videos of the complete 6L80 assembly. Thanks so much.
Thanks, KoelzSpeed Garage! I have a 'DEMO' series that I'll be posting soon that walks folks through the assembly process using a 6L80 core as an example.
@@nickstransmissions That's great. I will look forward to it.
Happy to contribute. I think we can all pick up little things from each other. I ordered and used for the first time just yesterday the specific bushing driver set for these and it was a pleasure to use. I’m considering the snap ring installation tool for the 1,2,3,4 piston housing. After installing the last one I noticed it was a bit over expanded. Had a new one in my overall kit and liked it better but it’s still a little tricky to get into the groove without opening it up. Looks like the tool would make rather easy.
Yep, for sure...I'm prob also going to buy that tool as well as it always a bit dicey installing that snap ring and they can get a bit over expanded...The tool would def make it easier...
I’ve had mine rebuilt again for some reason less than 100 miles burned out the clutch’s. New bell and stator first rebuild.
Sorry to hear that, Ignacio. What was the reason for the rapid burn-up? And did all of the clutch packs burn, including low/reverse or just one or two?
Awesome man!! Great video as always.
Thanks, man!
I have been using the 3,5,R apply ring. I have a couple of large steels on top of the ring then an old molded piston from a 4L60 input drum on top of that. Push it down w my spring compressor and it snaps right in like butter.
Great tip, will try this on my next 6L build..Thank you very much for sharing and watching!
So put the 3,5,R apply ring fingers down on the Belleville spring then put an old 1,2,3,4 piston inside the other end of the apply ring. Use a push/pull type threaded compressor with a centering bell style adapter. Crank her down and the snap ring will easily pop all the way in.
Nick im rebuilding my first 6l80e which I bought disassembled so im having a bit of trouble figuring where some parts go, specifically the snap ring you installed, is it the the one with a wedge/triangular profile? I see all other snap rings are flat but found one different and im wondering where it goes, thanks!
Thanks for watching, man...Check out my 6L80 Teardown and inspection video where I go through the case in detail, showing you all the different snap ring locations. It's long but will give you the information you need: th-cam.com/video/KETqyd4C_pQ/w-d-xo.html
So I wanted to ask if you had run across this……on my current 6L90 build my 2/6 clearance is just over 0.090. I have put all the old parts including the piston back in and still get the same results. I have measured everything and it would seem that it left the factory this way. I have built more that 100 of these units and NEVER seen the clearance this high.
Hey Ross...I'll start with the obvious - are you sure you have the cushion plate installed? If not, that's likely the difference...
If so, measure the thickness of each friction and steel and compare to new and see what you get...
I've been pushing for folks to replace their steels in these and other clutch to clutch transmissions as I've seen as much as .002 material loss due to wear in flat steels compared to factory-new...multiply .002 by the number of steels in a given clutch pack and it can be enough to push you either to the very edge of spec on the high side or beyond it...
So to answer your questions yes the waved plate is there, the steels are new replacements but are 0.001 to 0.002 thinner than the originals. At best that still only gets me a maximum of 0.010 to the good and though there are no visible hot spots on the originals it looks t like they have been hot. The 3,5,R snap ring is the thickest I have right now and does get clearance in a more comfortable range but it leaves two open lugs in the drum between the ends of the snap ring instead of one with the OE ring. I have never attempted to but I have seen where other builders will strip one side of two frictions and then put the stripped sides facing each other. That will give me approximately 0.032 less clearance and get me in the ball park. It’s puzzling because I don’t believe this unit has ever been apart since it was manufactured so it had to have had that much clearance since new.
Gotcha, didn't think you missed anything but wanted to confirm...I'd say you're correct - it left the factory with that much clearance...Given how many are built just in one day on a given assembly line, it's inevitable that a mistake would be made.
What/Whose steel module did you buy?
I've heard of the "z-pak" method whereby folks will do as you describe and run it but I've never done it myself. Sometimes you get a curveball or two thrown at you but I'm sure you'll hit it out of the park...
ETA - I'd order a 2-6 snap ring, the thickest available - I agree with you in that the two open lugs remaining is a concern since those snap rings are of different dimension.
So let me tell you what I did and maybe (if you want) you can give your opinion. Of course I will always strive to do things correctly. I have learned it’s the only way to have a higher level of confidence/success. In this case though I did what I feel will work best with what I have. I stripped one side of one friction. I put the side I stripped against the cushion plate and the side with the friction material against the bottom steel. This got me right at 0.058 which I am much happier with. Plus I have slightly more holding area in the 2/6 clutch pack.
Hi Ross, have you reinstalled the transmission and taken it for a test drive as of yet? Curious to see how the 2-6 clutch is performing with your mods made to it.
also lemme get you a new brush.. it’s the least i can do
i think
you really just said “& that’s it” 😂😩
Haha, thanks. That paint brush has been in use for at least 5 years. It looks horrible but that's how it looked from day one, lol.
i think i found you on here
i’m still so heartbroken lol
Dont be - what's broken can be fixed (at least as far as the 6L80 is concerned). I'll be uploading more 6L80 vids over the next week or so. Thanks for watching, Lex!
Here's a modification I performed on the old Harbor Freight 20-ton hydraulic press to take the slop out of the ram by adding gibs. It really turns the cheapie press into a precision pressing implement!
th-cam.com/video/X6zGj9avKIQ/w-d-xo.html
Awesome, looks great Russell! Thank you for sharing and will be doing that to my press very soon.
So if i dont have a press Im screwed 🥵
Hi James, thank you for watching...Grab a press from Harbor Freight...They have H-frame and Arbor presses and they aren't too expensive...The one you see me use in the video is a Harbor Freight press over 15 years old and still works great.
I literally couldn't and wouldn't build transmissions or otherwise be without one.