New Contrast Shade Guide - HC 352
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial and Review - I deep dive into the new range of Contrast Shades. We are replacing all of our belived shades with this new formulation, but does it live up to the classic blend?
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0:00 Intro
1:50 Painting (New Tones)
5:35 Discussion
6:25 White vs. Zenithal
7:45 Over Metallics
12:05 Outro
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Vince, thanks for doing this, and all the teaching you do. Getting back into painting after being out for 20 years, and you've been a big help. Just tried glazing for the first time and really enjoying the process instead of viewing it as a means to play a game.
It’s amazing how many people are getting back into this after 20 years off! Myself included. The range and quality of the products is amazing now. Not to mention the quality of all these guides on TH-cam. I would say to get an airbrush if you’re on the fence. I am a beginner at it but already the results are great.
Always happy to help and always happy to answer any questions.
Watch all of his videos and you'll be up to date on all the painting advancements!
4es DC hfrt
Vince, great video, I've just started following you yesterday, you are truly the father of painting wargaming miniatures :).
In this video you compared old and new GW shades, and you used your old 2/3 used washes, which is not quite accurate. For example, when I buy GW washes I rearrange a portion of the volume in a 10ml dropper bottle (this will be my spare, no air there to mess up the paint), and continue using the wash in a big GW bottle filled with air. The same goes as with vine - as it ages the paint matures, when it comes to an end it becomes really concentrated and grimy, and viscosity is amazing for applying to leather, clothes or weathering metallics, or just to make a model look less clean. As you've imagined, it works wonders with the olive green and brown tones. You can also make your own tertial color tones by premixing washes, it's just great, mixing a little VGC pale grey wash with those tertial gives you a range of 50 shades of grey to paint , which is awesome for zenithal primed white-over-grey models.
Thanks for the detailed deep dive Vince, this is really really helpful
Happy to help.
An excellent review of these new Shades…very much appreciate your helpful approach to testing them and showing the results. Thank you!
Happy to help.
That Poxwalker came out really nicely for just shades. Actually made me want to try doing a Nurgle force that way where messiness of the shades would actually fit.
hrrmph, that's a plaguebearer, not a poxwalker, you plebeian
Absolutely!
That is how i ended up with a small nurgle force as well albeit with the old shades.
@@l.christoffersen7502 uhm aktually!! 🤓
Great video as always Vince. I like the unbiased and technical view. Thanks once again
Happy to help.
As always Vince, invaluable information. Thanks for your time and effort.
My pleasure!
Thanks Vince. This was really helpful to understand the new line before potentially buying
Awesome! Thanks brother.
Seraphim Sepia was one of my favorite way to add some warmth to fur/leather/hair, as it has a nice filter/tinting effect. It looks like the new version won't do that. I may try to get a bottle or two of the old stuff !
It will still do it, but a little less of that, as it will run off the top areas more. It still tints, especially bright matte paints, but less.
@@VinceVenturella so is it going to require more coats or need to find a different way to do this
@@the_hybred648 I think it would depend on what you wanted for the look, it might be fine or it might take two applications.
@@the_hybred648 i am sure you can find a contrast that does the same effect , judt mix it with a bit of medium.
@@the_hybred648 id recommend Vallejo ink
Watched it entirely and I’m happy to give it a thumb up ;) great comparison. Will consider buying some.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed. :)
Great stuff, as usual. Regarding the metallics, I guess it'd be useful to compare the new shades to the current gloss shades (nuln oil, agrax and reikland) instead of the regular wash versions (I heard the new shades are more glossy than the current regular ones). Gloss shades are going out of production once the new shades arrive. And the gloss ones were the go-to shades with metallics, they preserved the glossiness, slides better to the recesses. Personally, I usually wash over a layer of gloss varnish, and I add a drop of flow improver to a wash (I also dilute them with some medium when needed). This always allowed me to have better control over the glossiness and tinting.
That's fair, but yes, I avoided that comparison as those are going away.
Great video and review. Thanks.
Thanks!
Excited for some of the new colors and this new formula
Absolutely!
Thank you Vince!!!
Happy to help.
Always good videos Vince. I avoid GW paints like the plague, including the non plague color ones, but it's good to see how they work and get your opinions on things. And always learning something, even from topics I don't care for, like applying washes better and a metallic Zenithal recipe. Thanks!
Always happy to help.
Great video, great review of the new shades. Thanks Vince 👍🏻
No problem 👍
Thanx so much Vince
Happy to help.
The holy trinity chant cracked me up! 🤣
Glad you enjoyed.
The Technomancer drops another one for the boyz
Indeed
So pumped for the new Mortarion Grime. As a Deathwing player a Wraithbone primer and a shade of Mortarion Grime might be the new go to paint process saving so much time.
Yeah, it's a really nice shade.
Nice one. I get some good results adding inks to contrast medium.
Absolutely, you can really manufacture something pretty close like that.
I've been adding contrast medium to my washes for a while now...it seemed to make them wash in a washier way (it's a thing, I'm sure of it). Kinda bummed they decided to go with smaller pots, but that's kinda how everything is going these days....
Yes indeed.
really? I mostly use scalecolour stuff and not seen any change in pot size. try out instant colours by them, it's like a cross between a contrast paint and a glaze. not really a one coat and done thing, more like a "this product was made to be a one coat and done so scale 75 decided to find a way and make it hard to use but can't argue with the amazing end results if you do" kind of thing. I personally judged them badly when i first got them but powered through a couple months later and now I use them a ton.
Edit: god damn I sound like a shill. but I really do stand by sc75's products, once figured out are magical. (except that sc75 acrylic medium "dispel magic" I don't like it at all, can't tell why but I just don't, I tend to use contrast medium mixed with water for my medium needs)
@@nameisbad Eh, it makes sense. S75 paints are harder to use in general but their specialty lines like Artist and Inktensity are top notch once you learn them. Makes sense that Instants are the same way.
Living on the edge with that intro
You know it.
Thanks for the review, always like your opinion on new paints.
Thanks!
Thanks for the review. I like the addition of the new lighter colours. I've seen some light coloured enamel panel liners and I was wondering if the new light grey shade could do a similar job over a dark/black base colour?
I think they are very similar to some of the enamel panel liners. I think oils will still always be cleaner, but they're good.
Hey Vince great review of the shades and thanks for adding in the metallic portion. Just curious on your thoughts of tyran blue over a silver metallic. I know GW has tried Talassar blue over silver for an easy grey knights base color. Wondering if it would be similar or better?
I think it would work well for that actually.
Great video as always! Do you have a view on how the new shade formula compares with the old one diluted 1:1 with contrast medium? I have the feeling the result would be the exact same? In that case, the reformulantes range is only a price increase (smaller pots) for less pigments in each pot, right?
They aren't that thin, that's the challenge. It would give you something that would act similarish, but it would be more transparent.
thanks!
Welcome!
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks!
This was a super helpful video!
Just to be clear, when you talk about the white primer, you mean the new White Scar primer, right? Or did they reformulate the old Corax White too?
I did, my apologies for the wrong name. :)
I loved your Gregorian Chant over Sepia, Agrax and Nuln. I recently was converted to the AP Shade religion, but I may read from the book if Nuln whenever painting panel lining my metals.
Indeed :)
Thank you for this incredibly useful comparison Vince. I’ve seen some recommend using basilicanum grey as a wash over metallic steel, how would you say this compares to the new nuln oil?
I'd rather go with the new Nuln Oil
Love all your great information. As a new painter with all those color choices in front of me, what would be the 5 or 6 shades you'd start out with? Thanks
The holy triumvarate of Seraphim Sepia, Agrax and Nuln Oil, then Reikland Fleshshade, the new Targor Rageshade and then whatever else grabs your attention for your project I would say.
@@VinceVenturella thanks so much
Great video, Vince!
Can the new shades be thinned with water or do we have to use Contrast medium?
I'm excited by the less gloopy Nuln oil & my last bottle of Agrax likes to go glossy unless I shake it like a British nanny, so this video was reassuring!
They can definitely thin with water but it will diminish the effect of the contrast medium - they won’t shrink and run into recesses as much.
You can thin them with water yes, but as said, that will reduce their effect. I would thin them with contrast medium honestly.
Appreciate this video. Nice to see the direct comparisons. Do you think you’ll use these new shades on bases?
Yep, that will be heavily in the roatation.
Thanks Vince
How does layering the new shades look?
I have used sepia as a basis for building up rust for years.
Building up by adding levels of orange and pooling the washes
And have loved the overall stain it gives.
It still works, though again, because it's pulling away from flat surfaces more, you are having less effect when trying to use them in that way, so the effect may be more minimal in some cases.
@5:18
If you told me this was a 2D water colour painting, and not a video of a 3D figure - I would believe you.
always spitting truth bombs. thanks Vince!
Happy to help.
Hey Vince. Cheers for sharing your experiments with us as always! But I still feel a targeted pinwash with an oil based product still looks better than an acrylic product, especially over metals.
I've given up on army painting all together now, so efficiency is no longer that important to me. I'm sure my experience in this new world of lower model count games is very different to your average Warhammer collector! I can understand the appeal of these products to that group of collectors.
You're not wrong.
Follow-up question: What *is* your favorite technique to do colorful metals with TMM?
So many, it just dpends on what you want. Glazing with contrasts or shades, glazing normal paints, mixing in inks into the metals, candy coats over the top with things like Tamiya Clears, there all options and serve different purposes. :)
Going to try mixing some contrast medium in to the old formula.
Yep, it would be close, but then it would likely be quite thin, my feeling is you may get better results from an actual contrast thinned way down with more contrast medium, like Wyldwood or something.
Hi Vince, another great video. Regarding the new seraphim sepia shade. I currently use the old one to tint and shade for shadows on my deathwing scheme for my dark angels which is a cream colour scheme. There are not many guides out there for cream, and I really like that yellow cream gw get on there box art. The old seraphim sepia is the only product I have found where I can achieve that tone over any traditional cream/bone colour. I usually thin it to assist the process. Will the new colour mean it’s harder to shade as I rely on that film almost shade the armour panels. I even base in leather brown from Vallejo to try and bring out those yellows. Thanks very much for all your tutorials.
I have the same question! I wanted a richer more muted color for stormcast I shade sepia twice with. I’m wondering if this will be challenging now
Whenyou're dealing with something like white and matte paints, it should actually work perfectly. My feeling is that the new mix with a contrast thinner will be even better at giving you that soft tones and shadow. I've been very impressed by new sepia.
@@VinceVenturella Ideal, thanks Vince, look forward to trying these out.
Thanks for another great video Vince. Minor thing, I think your hand gestures might be messing with the autofocus of your camera occasionally; your face kept coming in and out of focus as you spoke. I hope you enjoy some time with your family on this holiday weekend.
Yep, I am working on resolving that - or talking with my hands less. That 's tough though, it's in my blood. :)
Thank you for the review Vince, I need to get another Black shade (got plenty of sepia & agrax at the moment), so good to know that the new ones are good. Are you going to review the new contrast paints Vince? There a couple that I think maybe a good addition my paint collection.
Yep, the new contrast is coming next week and I highlight the purple. It's awesome but it has to be thinned, a lot because it's so powerful.
@@VinceVenturella yes Squidmar thought the purple was a bit too powerful too. I’m looking forward to some of the greens, blues & yellows.
Painting Question I know you have answered before: What's a good paint and technique for painting the lines that have texture, say the lines of a tau fire warrior? I was using Black Templar and wiping away excess left above with my finger to some success (success being that I didn't have to repaint the armor color afterward).
Those kind of panel lines are always tough. My preferred method is something like an oil panel liner.
Vince, when airbrushing with Vallejo metal color do you add anything else like flow improver? Just wondering if the little metal flakes in the metallic paint can ever cause airbrush problems
Just a few drops of my normal thinner (80/20 Thinner/flow improver). As long as you clean, there is no issue, VMeC is made for airbrush and ground very, very small.
I’m curious if these new shades will be fragile as the current contrast paints are and require a varnish layer before doing dry brushing or something. I’ve personally noticed my contrast painted miniatures will have sections torn off when dry brushing if I haven’t varnished them first
I haven't really seen any issue (but I never varnished contrast either). I never had the fragile issue. I use soft make-up brushes and never saw any damage.
Now, I get it with the stubble and 'shades', but now I'm really trepidatious to see how you're going to reflect the 'contrast' on your face, Vince. O_O
Time will tell... ;)
thax for the review, if you could only pick one of these shades, which one would it be?
The new Targor Rageshade is pretty awesome.
I think i'll stick with my Army Painter washes and oils. Thank you for the the testing and the video!
Totally understandable, glad it was informative all the same. :)
I plan on doing Thousand sons candy red for my 30k army. I am eyeing off baal red vs the current blood angels red. My theory is the new coverage on baal will cover the metallic undercoat more and reduce the metallic look of the minis so I should probably stick to blood angels red or tamiya clear red instead.
I think thinned Baal red would be amazing, but very bright. I'd say do test with both.
You mentioned the glossiness (as did Ninjon). I wonder if that is why they seem to be superior to the old over metallics? So perhaps they added a glossy medium to get that reduced surface tension over the old?
Much like a lot of the contrast paints are quite gloss.
That's what Ninjon suspected. And it does show after a few layers.
It could very well be a small gloss medium in there as well.
Thanks Vince! Question “Can I just add contrast medium to the older shades to get the same effect of the new shades? Or keep using Lahmian medium?
I think you could get something pretty close with that mix.
@@VinceVenturella nice thanks for the quick response!😊👍🏽
I'm guessing your review of the new contrast colors coming soon? I'm curious to hear your thoughts on some of the colors, specifically Imperial Fist Yellow. Wondering how it compares to Iyanden Yellow since I currently use that for my IF army.
Yep, contrast colors is next week. I don't think I actually use Imperial Fist yellow in that video (as I am not going color by color, but really just showing what they can do and using a wide selection of new ones, but I couldn't use every one). My short answer is I love all the new yellows, they are just wonderful. I mean, those 3 yellows are just fantastic, instant buy for me.
I'm expecting that Imperial Fist yellow to be the first one to sell out. It's a knockout color that's always been a difficult one to do well.
@@VinceVenturella That's great to hear! I'll look at grabbing one when I can. Looking forward to next week's video now!
For contrast over zenithal I use a black primer and then medium grey (mostly liquitex ink) from 45° to cover most of the miniature except for the deepest shadows and then a bright white from directly above and I like the effect very much, but black and white wasn't working for me neither.
That's fine, as long as you end up at a nice point, that's good!
Like you said at the end of the video, the differences with Nuln Oil and Aggrax Earthshade must be more visible in person than on camera because I honestly can’t tell the difference. BUT! I liked both results of the Seraphim Sepia. The new line gave a cleaner look but the old one would look really good on metals with Orks, chaos, or gritty Imperial Guard models. I actually really liked that dingey yellow look.
Any plans on doing the more colorful shades and contrasts? I really like what I’ve seen of the new blue shade paint. Gives a nice alien and/or icey look
Yep, contrast video is coming this week. :)
Hello Vince, thanks for your run-down. How would you weather a metallic blue Alpha Legion figure? That sounds like a challenge to me. Any of the paints in this video any good?
So In general, I don’t like to weather alpha too much. But I would weather them with some metallic steel scratches and such.
@@VinceVenturella Thought so. But how to make them look not too fresh?
Soulblight grey looks perfect for white scars
This is true, I want to do some testing with white marines and see what we get. :)
So the Volume has been reduced from 24ml to 18ml with the same price point. In your opinion, is the addition of a contrast medium a good trade-off for what is effectively a 33% price increase ?
It's always tough with GW, because most of the stuff is overpriced. That being said, I really think the nuln oil in particular is just an amazing upgrade.
This is just the comparison I needed. I am now having an issue though, Since my army was more or less metallics with shades over them to tint the surface the new formulations aren't achieving the same values anymore. A single coat of druchii violet was all I needed, but now layering it doesn't really get the same dingy purple for my slanesh stuff that the old formula would give. Do you have any advice on trying to replicate the old stuff? I guess Either is there a way to get it to behave like it used to or do you have any tips on replicating the color from scratch to use as a glaze. Thanks so much :)
I'm not really sure there is a great way honestly. If you just apply mutliple coats, you can mostly get into the same place as the old ones, but it won't be exactly the same.
@@VinceVenturella if I find a better way I'll let you know for sure
Does the new nuln oil come close to making an oil wash redundant? About to start on Perturabo following your approach and wondered would you do things differently now?
If you're looking for something quicker, yes, that being said, I still love the oil wash for the cleanest jobs.
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince, appreciate the reply. Will have a go using an oil wash on Perty after a practice on a legionary.
Are drying times similar with the new compositions?
They feel like the dry a little bit slower, but similar.
Vince I love your videos but I think the big thing you missed here is to show if they work as intended as a shade over a paint.
I mostly paint historicals and the GW colours are just a bit too bright for that but I've found that mixing in a little apothecary white contrast is a great way to desaturate colours and get me tones that I can use (thinned) to shade so that soulblight grey shade looks useful to me.
But these new shades look like pre-diluted bright contrast tones. The blue as you said is too bright to shade blue, so I'm not quite sure I see the point compared to just thinning contrast (which already has a lot of dark tones) with contrast medium.
I understand, that was more what I was trying to show with the start of each example, but I get what you mean. I think the shades will still work, but yes, some of those colors aren't dark enough for the purpose you're describing.
For display / competition painting: Are the new shades more even and closer to inks or do they still leave mostly coffee stains?
They are much more thin over the high areas, less coffee staining.
Vince how does the new red wash compare to carroburg crimson? Wondering if I should pick some of the old stuff up.
It's stronger and deeper. :)
I think these new shades could be great over say a simple two color paint scheme to bring standard troops up to a table top standard for standard rank and file guys.
I agree.
Was that you "throwing shade" at GW? :D
;)
Aw Rats. I was going to begrudgingly purchase some of the more interesting new contrasts and I was hoping there wouldn't be a big difference in the new shades. I wonder how far I could get mixing the existing shades with contrast medium.
I will say, they are good, but it's not a necessarily complete replacement wher eyou need to get them now. I will say, the new shades are pretty worth it for the most part and you could rotate through the rest.
Vince, do you foresee any of the new Contrast Paints becoming one your workhorse paints? Any of the them stand out as super useful, any that are a hard pass for you?
Of the new contrast colors, I have a video coming next week, and the answer is yes, absolutely, I actually really love a lot of the new range, but especially the single pigment stuff.
I was hoping the reformulated old colours would tint the raised areas a lot less, but from what I've seen in a lot of these videos, it looks like quite a few of them still shift the colour way too much for my liking. Seems like less of a problem on glossy surfaces like metallics, but I'll still take 5 minutes removing excess oils with a Q-tip over 45 minutes repainting raised areas after an acrylic wash any day.
A lot of the new tones do what I was hoping the new old ones would though, so it might be on purpose. Maybe GW figured people would get annoyed if they messed with their painting recipes too much.
Yeah, they are better, but in the end, they are still acrylics and especially over mattes, that is always going to stain to some degree.
Did Vince just throw shade at his viewers? 😏 ALL THE SHADE!!
Throwing shade hard.
How do they perform through an airbrush?
They don't really do much, I mean they won't "contrast" through the airbrush, but if you're looking for a slight filter, they can work great.
would adding flow aid to the old product make it act like the new line of shade paints ?
You'd get similar, but the challenge will be they will be quite thin then, you might be better off making some of the contrast that's in the right tone thinned down with medium.
I am sure this has been asked but searching I can't find the answer. Is every single old contrast color and shade/technical now being reformulated?
So as they run out and we replace them, do not mix them together in the same dropper?
I decant my citadel paints.
Just trying to understand. If only some of it is reformulated and some is the same as the old I wish they had a list.
All of the shades, nighthaunt gloom, and hexwraith flame are now based on contrast medium. I wouldn’t mix the new & old together in droppers.
@@brkfstfd thanks, looks like a new group of dropper bottles are getting ordered.
The only citadel paints I use anymore are the shades/contrast stuff. I prefer scale75 and pro acryl for regular acrylic use.
Yep, Andrew is correct. Its just the shades.
@@VinceVenturella so to be safe never mix an old shade with a new shade of the same name for consistency but the contrast colors are OK to add to the same bottle old to new and vice versa?
@@ILikeYous Correct, no change to the formula of Contrast paints themselves.
No reactivation? Awesome!
Indeed.
I find it weird that the new Seraphim Sepia and Agrax Earthshade have more of a filter effect, but the new Nuln Oil is the exact opposite and has little filter effect. Over all I think I really like the new NO better, but still prefer the old SS and AE. Original NO had too strong a filter effect, and what I really wanted out of it was a black lining effect, so I always used an actual oil wash to get that instead.
I get that.
Grab my thumb up blindly
I appreciate it.
I would love to see a video explaining how best to use AK interactive's Pastel paints. I'm not sure how to use them & I haven't found any tips or anything online.
This I can do, I love the pastel range (they are, in simplest forms, better universal highlight colors than using white you use to set the color tone of an environment), you'll actually see this in action in an upcoming video.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you so much. I can't wait.
Do they intend to let the old 24ml sized ones available though?
Nope, those will go away.
Question one, is it worth replacing my other washes with these? Question 2, do you think they're good enough on metallics that you could replace oil washes with them?
1) Probably not, except maybe nuln oil, which I really love. 2) Maybe, they are really good, I'd probably still do oils if going for top work, but it's actually much better and closer.
@@VinceVenturella cool, I'm not doing top work so... And to be honest due to certain conditions of working with oils, it'd be nice to actually avoid them 9 out of 10 times.
Too bad that GW doesn't, afaik, sell an actual black wash.
I really don't like the new sepia as I used it on gold alot and wanted that sort of yellowly film. new nuln oil looks great though and im lookforward to the other contrast colors. also not a fan of the smaller bottle, but ether way video gets a thumbs up.
I apprecaite the thumbs up.
How is gloss varnish different than the Vallejo metallic varnish?
This might have been from another video, but they are pretty darn similar.
👍👍
:)
CORAX WHITE?? IT’S WHITE SCAR, THEY’RE COMING FOR YOU, VINCE!
Oh no!!!
Less than 10 seconds in and you're already throwing shade :p
;)
Anyone knows why its available to pre-order in UK but not in US?
It should be available pre-order everywhere.
Vince, it looks like you flip flopped the new/old on the Agrax Earthshade comparison, versus the Nuln and Seraphim comparisons.
I very well may have, my apologies.
Is the new shade the same as the Nuln Oil Gloss?
No, the gloss actually has a gloss finish, this is mixed with the contrast medium, so it has a more matte finish.
If you'll take some constructive criticism, I found it hard to follow the right side left side on the space marines. I think you were calling the right shoulder the left side and vice versa. A little thing but it gave me trouble. Keep up the good work.
Totally fair!
Kind of a bummer the gloss shades are getting squatted. Reikland gloss over gold gives you a nice, quick warm gold.
Well, I think these new ones will work very similar, I really like them over metallics.
So... is GW actually stopping to make all the old shades/washes?
Correct, these are replacing the old ones.
As i am a rather average painter, and I don't slap my washes all over (because I want to avoid coffee staining), usually, I find I am currently using Citadel Contrast paints more for shading recesses than GW's "shades". And GW have put another nail in their coffin by keeping the "shades", now in smaller 18ml pots, at the same old price!!?! As much as I like GW's products, they don't do themselves any favours with their anti-consumer practices.
Shrinkflation. I wouldn't be too hard on them over this one. Very likely that the inputs (petrochemicals for plastics/ fuel for shipping of plastics and pigments, wage inflation etc) I) have gone up as well.
@@christopherheintz2634 Given their annual profits, I'm sure they could have absorbed the cost increase, if that's what has actually prompted this change, rather than pass it on to the customer. Oh, and wage inflation? Not in the UK mate. Wages have been stagnant, for years now, unless you're lucky enough to be in the 1% club.
I understand that, the prices on GW paints are higher, no doubt there. I think they are good, but I totally understand if someone avoids it because of the price.
Is it just me or does the new ones look more patchy and leave more ride marks?
In reality they are definitely less patchy. But as always application matters as much as the product.
couldn't you just use the old shade's and mix some contrast medium into them? And have a close to new shade
Yes, I think that would be close to the new shades, not exactly the same, and it would be thinner, that's the isue. You might actually want to start from a brown contrast, and thin down, like the new Grishrack's sewer.
While you do them justice I can't stand them. They are no longer useable. I don't prime white and I used them to apply solid depth to my layered style. I do not paint in the glaze style.
The only option I have now are oil washes.
I get that.
These are actually even more expensive than golden paints. Wouldn't even consider buying.
Totally fair, as always with GW paints, they are not cheap.
Any merits using this stuff out of an airbrush?
It's not doing much that is contrast in that case, but it can be a good filter out of the airbrush.
As much as i like your channel and always value your opinion and skill, i have to disagree with you this time. For metallics GW had the great gloss line, made exactly for shading metal, and the tinting properties if the other washes were extremely useful for glazing and tinting other colors. This move seems to me like a budgeting move, as always: smaller pots at the same price, use of contrast medium in shades so the can produce contrast medium and use it for sgades and contrast, helping with large scale economy, so they can stop producibg the old shade medium. More money and less work to produce a less versatile product, that’s all i see.
That's not a bad improvement. They look like great tools and a good time for me to be pushing miniatures in quantity.
Was this a paid review?
They sent me the shades at no charge, they don't pay for reviews as it were. :)